Produced by Robert Connal, Wilelmina Maillière and the
Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
(This file was produced from images generously made
available by the Bibliothèque nationale de France
(BnF/Gallica) at http://gallica.bnf.fr)
Transcriber's note: Original spellings (and their inconsistencies) have
been maintained. A few obvious printer's error have been corrected: a
list of this corrections can be found at the end of the text.
THE
STRANGER IN FRANCE:
OR,
A TOUR FROM DEVONSHIRE TO PARIS.
ILLUSTRATED BY
ENGRAVINGS IN AQUA TINTA
OF
SKETCHES, TAKEN ON THE SPOT,
BY
JOHN CARR, Esq.
LONDON:
PRINTED FOR J. JOHNSON, NO. 72, ST. PAUL'S CHURCHYARD.
SOLD ALSO BY W. HANNAFORD, TOTNES.
_Bryer, Printer, Bridge Street, Black Friars._
1803.
PREFACE.
The little tour which gave birth to the following remarks, was taken
immediately after the exchange of the ratifications of a peace,
necessary, but not inglorious to my country, after a contest unexampled
in its cause, calamity, extension, vicissitudes and glory; amidst a
people who, under the influence of a political change, hitherto
unparallelled, were to be approached as an order of beings, exhibiting a
moral and political form before but little known to themselves and to
the world, in the abrupt removal of habits and sentiments which had
silently and uninterruptedly taken deep root in the soil of ages.
During a separation of ten years, we have received very little account
of this extraordinary people, which could be relied upon. Dissimilar
sensations, excited by their principles and proceedings, ever partially
and irregularly known, have depicted unaccording representations of
them, and, in the sequel, have exhibited rather a high-coloured,
fanciful delineation, than a plain and faithful resemblance of the
original. Many are the persons who have been thus misled.
These fugitive sketches, in which an attempt is made to delineate, just
as they occurred, those scenes which, to _my_ mind at least, were new
and interesting, were originally penned for the private perusal of those
whom I esteem; and by their persuasion they are now offered to the
public eye. Amongst them I must be permitted to indulge in the pride and
pleasure of enumerating William Hayley, esq. a name familiar and dear to
every elegant and polished mind. Enlightened by his emendations, and
supported by the cherishing spirit of his approval, I approach, with a
more subdued apprehension, the tribunal of public opinion; and to my
friends I dedicate this humble result of a short relaxation from the
duties of an anxious and laborious profession. If, by submitting to
their wishes, I have erred, I have only to offer, that it is my first,
and shall be my last offence.
_Totnes, August, 1802._ JOHN CARR.
[Symbol: right pointing index] The engravings which accompany this work, are
of sketches made on the spot by an untutored pencil, and are introduced
for the purpose of illustration only.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
_Torr Abbey.--Cap of Liberty.--Anecdote of English Prejudice.--Fire
Ships.--Southampton River.--Netley Abbey._ page 1.
CHAPTER II.
_French Emigrants.--Scene on the Quay of Southampton.--Sail for
Havre.--Aged French Priest.--Their respectable Conduct in
England.--Their Gratitude.--Make the Port of Havre.--Panic of the
Emigrants.--Landing described.--Hôtel de la Paix.--Breakfast
Knife.--Municipality._ p. 6.
CHAPTER III.
_Passports procured.--Coins.--Town of
Havre.--Carts.--Citoyen.--Honfleur.--Deserters.--Prefect de
Marine.--Ville de Sandwich.--French Farmers.--Sir Sydney
Smith.--Catherine de Medicis.--Light Houses.--Rafts._ p. 20.
CHAPTER IV.
_Cheap travelling to Paris.--Diligences.--French Postilions.--Spanish
Postilions.--Norman Horses.--Bolbec.--Natives of Caux.--Ivetot.--Return
of Religion.--Santerre.--Jacobin.--The Mustard-pot.--National Property._
p. 31.
CHAPTER V.
_A female french fib.--Military and Civil Procession.--Madame
G.--The Review.--Mons. l'Abbé.--Bridge of Boats.--The
Quay.--Exchange.--Theatre.--Rouen.--Cathedral.--St. Ouens.--Prince of
Waldec.--Maid of Orleans._ p. 40.
CHAPTER VI.
_First Consul's Advertisement.--Something ridiculous.--Eggs.--Criminal
Military Tribunal.--French Female Confidence.--Town House.--Convent of
Jesuits.--Guillotine.--Governor W----._ p. 50.
CHAPTER VII.
_Filial Piety.--St. Catharine's Mount.--Madame Phillope.--General
Ruffin's Trumpet.--Generosity.--Love Infectious.--Masons and Gardeners._
p. 62.
CHAPTER VIII.
_Early dinner.--Mante.--Frost.--Duke de Sully.--Approach the
Capital.--Norman Barrier.--Paris.--Hôtel de Rouen.--Palais Royal._
p. 72.
CHAPTER IX.
_French Reception.--Voltaire.--Restaurateur.--Consular
Guard.--Music.--Venetian Horses.--Gates of the Palace.--Gardens of
the Thuilleries.--Statues.--The faithful Vase.--The Sabine
Picture.--Monsieur Perrègaux.--Marquis de Chatelet.--Madame
Perrègaux.--Beaux and Belles of Paris._ p. 79.
CHAPTER X.
_Large Dogs.--A Plan for becoming quickly acquainted with
Paris.--Pantheon.--Tombs of Voltaire and Rousseau.--Politeness of an
Emigrant.--The Beauty of France.--Beauty evanescent.--Place de
Carousel.--Infernal
Machine.--Fouché.--Seine.--Washerwomen.--Fisherwomen.--Baths._
p. 90.
CHAPTER XI.
_David.--Place de la Concorde.--L'Église de Madeleine.--Print-shops.--Notre
Dame.--Museum or Palace of Arts.--Hall of Statues.--Laocoon.--Belvidere
Apollo.--Socrates._
p. 101.
CHAPTER XII.
_Bonaparte.--Artillery.--Mr. Pitt.--Newspapers.--Archbishop of
Paris.--Consular Colours.--Religion.--Consular Conversion.--Madame
Bonaparte.--Consular Modesty.--Separate Beds.--A Country
Scene.--Connubial Affection.--Female Bravery._ p. 113.
CHAPTER XIII.
_Breakfast.--Warmth of French Expression.--Rustic Eloquence.--Curious
Cause assigned for the late extraordinary Frost.--Madame R----.--Paul
I.--Tivoli.--Frescati._ p. 128.
CHAPTER XIV.
_Convent of blue Nuns.--Duchesse de Biron.--The bloody Key.--Courts of
Justice.--Public Library.--Gobelines.--Miss Linwood.--Garden of
Plants.--French Accommodation.--Boot Cleaners.--Cat and Dog
Shearers.--Monsieur S---- and Family._ p. 140.
CHAPTER XV.
_Civility of a Sentinel.--The Hall of the Legislative Assembly.--British
House of Commons.--Captain Bergeret.--The Temple.--Sir Sydney Smith's
Escape.--Colonel Phillipeaux._ p. 150
CHAPTER XVI.
_A fashionable Poem.--Frere Rickart.--Religion.--Hôtel des
Invalides.--Hall of Victory.--Enemies' Colours.--Sulky Appearance of an
English Jack and Ensign.--Indecorum.--The aged Captain.--Military
School.--Champ de Mars.--The Garden of Mousseaux._ p. 163.
CHAPTER XVII.
_Curious Method of raising Hay.--Lucien Bonaparte's
Hôtel.--Opera.--Consular Box.--Madame Bonaparte's Box.--Feydeau
Theatre.--Belle Vue.--Versailles.--The Palace of the Petit Trianon.--The
Grounds._ p. 175.
CHAPTER XVIII.
_Bonaparte's Talents in Finance.--Garrick and the Madman.--Palace of the
Conservative Senate.--Process of transferring Oil Paintings from Wood to
Canvas.--The Dinner Knife.--Commodities.--Hall of the National
Convention.--The Minister Talleyrand's Levee._ p. 188.
CHAPTER XIX.
_The College of the Deaf and Dumb.--Abbé
Sicard.--Bagatelle.--Police.--Grand National Library.--Bonaparte's
Review.--Tambour Major of the Consular Regiment.--Restoration of
Artillery Colours._ p. 201.
CHAPTER XX.
_Abbè Sieyes.--Consular Procession to the Council Chamber.--10th of
August, 1792.--Celerity of Mons. Fouche's Information.--The two
Lovers.--Cabinet of Mons. le Grand.--Self-prescribing Physician.--Bust
of Robespierre.--His Lodgings.--Corn Hall.--Museum of French
Monuments.--Revolutionary Agent.--Lovers of married Women._
p. 214.
CHAPTER XXI.
_Picturesque and Mechanical Theatre.--Filtrating and purifying
Vases.--English Jacobins.--A Farewell.--Messagerie.--MalMaison.--Forest
of Evreux.--Lower Normandy.--Caen.--Hon. T. Erskine.--A Ball.--The
Keeper of the Sachristy of Notre Dame.--The two blind
Beggars.--Ennui.--St. Lo.--Cherbourg.--England._ p. 230.
GENERAL REMARKS. p. 252.
[Illustration: _Torr Abbey_]
THE STRANGER IN FRANCE
CHAPTER I.
_Torr Abbey.--Cap of Liberty.--Anecdote of English Prejudice.--Fire
Ships.--Southampton River.--Netley Abbey._
It was a circumstance, which will be memorable with me, as long as I
live, and pleasant to my feelings, as often as I recur to it, that part
of my intended excursion to the Continent was performed in the last ship
of war, which, after the formal confirmations of the peace, remained, of
that vast naval armament, which, from the heights of Torbay, for so many
years, presented to the astonished and admiring eye, a spectacle at once
of picturesque beauty, and national glory. It was the last attendant in
the train of retiring war.
Under the charming roof of Torr Abbey, the residence of George Cary,
esq., I passed a few days, until the Megæra was ready to sail for
Portsmouth, to be paid off, the commander of which, captain Newhouse,
very politely offered to convey my companion, captain W. Cary, and
myself, to that port.
In this beautiful spot, the gallant heroes of our navy have often found
the severe and perilous duties of the boisterous element alleviated by
attentions, which, in their splendid and cordial display, united an
elegant taste to a noble spirit of hospitality.
In the Harleian Tracts there is a short, but rather curious account
preserved of the sensation produced at the Abbey on the 5th of November,
1688, after the prince of Orange had entered the bay with his fleet, on
their passage to Brixham, where he landed:--
"The prince commanded captain M---- to search the lady Cary's house, at
Torr Abbey, for arms and horses. The lady entertaining them civilly,
said her husband was gone to Plymouth: they brought from thence some
horses, and a few arms, but gave no further disturbance to the lady or
her house."
Throughout this embarrassing interview, the lady Cary appears to have
conducted herself with great temper, dignity and resolution, whilst, on
the other hand, the chaplain of that day, whose opinions were not very
favourable to the revolution, unlike his present amiable and enlightened
successor[1], left his lady in the midst of her perplexities, and fled.
[1] Rev. John Halford.
In the Abbey, I was much pleased with an interesting, though not very
ornamental trophy of the glorious victory of Aboukir. The truckle heads
of the masts of the Aquilon, a french ship of the line, which struck to
the brave captain Lewis, in that ever memorable battle, were covered
with the bonnet rouge; one of these caps of liberty, surmounted with the
british flag, has been committed to the care of the family, by that
heroic commander, and now constitutes a temporary ornament of their
dining-room.
Here we laid in provision for our little voyage, without, however,
feeling the same apprehension, which agitated the mind of a fair damsel,
in the service of a lady of rank who formerly resided in my
neighbourhood, who, preparing to attend her mistress to the Continent,
and having heard from the jolly historians of the kitchen, that the food
in France was chiefly supplied by the croaking inhabitants of the green
and standing pool, contrived, very carefully, to carry over a piece of
homebred pork, concealed in her workbag.
Early in the morning after we set sail, we passed through the Needles,
which saved us a very considerable circuitous sail round the southern
side of the Isle of Wight, a passage which the late admiral Macbride
first successfully attempted, for vessels of war, in a ship of the line.
The vessel, in which we sailed, was a fireship; a costly instrument of
destruction, which has never been applied during the recent war, and
only once, and that unsuccessfully, during the preceding one. We had
several of them in commission, although they are confessedly of little
utility in these times, and from the immense stores of combustibles with
which they are charged, threaten only peril to the commander and his
crew.
We soon after dropped anchor, and proceeded to Portsmouth, in search of
a packet for Havre-de-Grace. In the street, our trunks were seized by
the custom-house officers, whilst conveying to the inn, but after
presenting our keys, and requesting immediate search and restoration,
they were returned to us without further annoyance. Finding that the
masters of the french packets were undetermined when they should sail,
we resolved upon immediately leaving this celebrated seaport, and
proceeding by water to Southampton, distant about twenty-four miles;
where, after a very unpleasant passage, from its blowing with
considerable violence soon after we left Portsmouth, we arrived, in a
little wherry, about twelve o'clock at night, at the Vine inn, which is
very conveniently situated for passengers by the packets.
It will not be required of me, to attempt a minute description of the
Southampton river, at a time when I expected, with some reason, as I
afterwards understood, to sink to the bottom of it. An observation very
natural to persons in our situation occurred to me all the way, viz.
that the shores seemed to be too far distant from each other, and that
had there been less water, the scenery would have been more delightful;
an observation which, however, the next day confirmed, when it presented
the safe and tranquil appearance of a mirror.
[Illustration: _Southampton._]
Finding that the packet for France was not likely to sail immediately,
we hired a boat, and proceeded down the river, to view the beautiful
ruins of Netley Abbey, in the great court of which we dined, under the
shade of aged limes, and amidst the flappings of its feathered and
restless tenantry.
As I am no great admirer of tedious details, I shall not attempt an
antiquarian history of this delightful spot. I shall leave it to more
circumstantial travellers, to enumerate the genealogies of the worthies
who occupied it at various eras, and to relate, like a monumental
entablature, when, where, and how they lived and died; it will be
sufficient to observe, that the site of this romantic abode was
granted by Henry VIII, in 1757, to a sir William Paulet, and that after
having had many merry monks for its masters, who, no doubt, performed
their matutinæ laudes and nocturnæ vigiliæ with devout exactness; that
it is at length in the possession of Mr. Dance, who has a very fine and
picturesque estate on that side of the river, of which these elegant
ruins constitute the chief ornament. The church still exhibits a
beautiful specimen of gothic architecture, but its tottering remains
will rapidly share the fate of the neighbouring pile, which time has
prostrated on the earth, and covered with his thickest shade of ivy.
Our watermen gave us a curious description of this place, and amused us
not a little with their ridiculous anacronisms.
"I tell you what," said one of them, contradicting the other, "you are
in the wrong, Bob, indeed you are wrong, don't mislead them gentlemen,
that there Abbey is in the true roman style, and was built by a man they
call----, but that's neither here nor there, I forget the name, however,
its a fine place, and universally allowed to be very old. I frequently
rows gentlefolks there, and picks up a great deal about it."
On our return the tide was at its height, the sun was setting in great
glory, the sky and water seemed blended in each other, the same red rich
tint reigned throughout, the vessels at anchor appeared suspended in the
air, the spires of the churches were tipped with the golden ray; a scene
of more beauty, richness, and tranquillity I never beheld.