PATIENTS ARRIVE FROM ALL PARTS—ROUGH JOURNEYS—ARRIVE AT THE
HAMRAN SETTITE—MAHOMET SALI DECEIVES US—CROCODILES, TURTLE,
AND FISH—WE MOVE ON TO BOORKATTAN, IN ABYSSINIA—NEXT DAY WE
MOVE OFF, AS ABYSSINIANS APPROACH—WE CATCH ENORMOUS QUANTITIES
OF FISH WITH THE NET—NARROW ESCAPE FROM A WOUNDED BUFFALO—THE
COORBATCH ADMINISTERED—SCORPIONS AND SNAKES—HAMRANS VISIT
US—HAMRAN MODE OF HUNTING AND SNARING—HAMRAN AND BASÉ—THE
HAMRANS THREATEN TO FIRE ON US—AGAIN RETURN TO THE HAMRAN
SETTITE—ENCAMP AT OMHAGGER.
February 27th.—I was well employed at my medicine chest again this
morning. Amongst some of my patients was a man who had followed us about
for weeks from Kassala, but had always arrived too late to come up with
us. Many others whom I had attended before we entered the Basé country
also visited me, expressing their thanks for what I had done for them,
and presenting me with a spear, a shield, an Arab knife, a gourd of wild
honey, a sheep, and other things; indeed, I met with more gratitude
amongst those poor Arabs than I have in much more favoured climes where
people are well educated, and where the sentiment often is very scarce,
as well as the money.
February 28th.—This morning, about seven o’clock, a great number of
women and children came close to camp making a great noise with the
accompaniment of the tom-toms and that peculiar trilling note to which
I have before alluded. It seems that this was a complimentary serenade,
and that they were rejoicing at our deliverance from the hands of the
Philistines.
Yesterday was occupied a good deal in making arrangements with Sheik
Ahmed for a march on to the Basé Settite. Mahomet Sali, who knows the
country well, will be our principal guide there. We have not seen
a flowing river since we left Kassala; we hope soon to do so, and
are told that we shall find any number of nellut, gazelles, tetél,
buffalos, giraffes, hippopotamus, lions, leopards, crocodiles, and
plenty of fishing, besides monkeys, baboons, golden-crested and toke or
fish eagles, paroquets; rollo-birds, and grouse, doves, guinea-fowl,
partridges, king-fishers, &c., surely a sufficient assortment of sport
to satisfy the most ardent sportsman.
A start was not effected until two. Sheik Ahmed, with some minor chiefs
and a number of his people, accompanied us a part of the way, which was
an uninteresting monotonous journey of about 10 miles over a dry, dusty
plain, the only vegetation being a great number of mimosa bushes, not
trees. The only game observed on the way was a few gazelles. Encamped at
Falookoo, in Basé territory, at 5.30 p.m.
February 29th.—Marched from 10 to 4; encamping on a wretched plain, where
the fine dust was about an inch thick, pitched our tents near to a deep
well at Sogoda. Several Basé came to salute us. They do not seem _quite_
so wild as those we have lately been amongst, and most of them wear a
tope. This was not by any means an enjoyable journey, as the roads were
bad and mountainous, and covered with intensely prickly trees, through
which my camel rushed me, and which lacerated my poor face, legs, arms,
clothes, and helmet in a dreadful manner. Needles and thread were in
great request after dinner to repair the damage done to clothes.
March 1st.—This has been a long, tedious march from 10 a.m. to 11 p.m.
All the discomforts and thorn-scratchings of yesterday intensified six
fold; frequently men had to go on in front and cut down trees to enable
the caravan to proceed. At 5 p.m. we arrived at a river-bed, dug a well,
filled our barrels with water and resumed our journey. It was past 12 at
midnight ere we dined, and 2 a.m. before we retired to our much-needed
rest, which we had very little of, as we were up at 6 a.m.
March 2nd.—Feeling stiff, sore, and tired. A bath would have been most
refreshing, but this morning we were obliged to deny ourselves the luxury
because all the water obtainable was in our barrels. Although our clothes
and flesh have not been so lacerated to-day, the march has been tedious
and very monotonous. For nine successive hours our route lay through
an immense forest of young mimosa trees; these and a quantity of dry,
withered grass was all that we saw during the time, except a few wild
hogs, one of which was chased and speared by a native. By 5 p.m. all our
water was gone, and the thirst of every one was excessive, the heat being
so great, 94° F. in the shade. After travelling 13 hours, we encamped at
9.30 p.m. by a broad, noble-looking river, the Tacazze or Settite which
lay like a lake in front of our camp, either side being fringed with
shrubs and trees of all kinds, amongst the branches of which brilliant
plumaged birds unsuspiciously roosted, little thinking that I should be
looking after them on the morrow.
This river was to us a most refreshing sight after travelling hundreds
of miles over burning deserts and khors or dry river-courses, never
seeing water except by digging for it. It was 12 o’clock this night ere
we got our dinner. All are very angry with Mahomet Sali, our guide,
who professed, and no doubt _does_ know, the whole of this country and
neighbourhood well, for he has brought us, not to the Basé, but the
Hamran Settite, where there is not very much game, as the Hamrans, or
sword-hunters, have destroyed it. This fellow told us on the way that he
would take us to the Basé Settite, within two days or less of Abyssinia,
where there would be plenty of game of all kinds, and here he brings us
about three days out of the way. An unpleasant interview and discourse
will ensue with Mahomet Sali on the morrow. Mr. F. L. James thinks,
rightly or wrongly I don’t know, that Sheik Ahmed has instructed Mahomet
Sali and Beyrumfi not to take us to the Basé Settite, fearing we might
get into trouble, either with them, or, what was more likely, with the
Abyssinians. This place is called Geebau.
[Illustration: THE AUTHOR ATTENDING TO ARAB AILMENTS.]
March 3rd.—Mahomet Sali was summoned before the council just after
breakfast, and his delinquencies forcibly pointed out. What he said for
himself I do not know, as I picked up a shot-gun and rifle, taking one of
the boys with me to carry the rifle and anything I shot. This river is
full of crocodiles, turtle, and fish. I was not long out ere a crocodile
received a bullet from my rifle. I also shot a sacred ibis, a crocodile
bird, and a beautiful golden-crested eagle.
In the afternoon the big net was sent on a camel some considerable
distance down the river, where it was rather deep, accompanied by most of
our men and ourselves. The river was dragged, and about 100lbs. of fine
fish were secured, some weighing 10 or 12 lbs. The addition of fish to
our dinner was much appreciated.
March 4th.—The nights are now getting decidedly warm, so much so that I
sleep now with simply a sheet covering me and both ends of my tent open.
To-day it is 94° in the shade. Last night Sali saw a wild beast pass
quite close to the camp just where he was sleeping. Presently he heard
him washing himself, and indulge in a little vocal display. There was no
mistaking his note—it was a lion. Sali at once called Mr. Phillipps, but
could not get any intelligible reply from him, as he was so excessively
sleepy, and knew nothing about it until next morning. Others, however,
were much vexed with Sali for not letting them know.
Mahomet Sali was sent off this morning with five camels and two men to
the Hamrans to procure dhurra. We at the same time, 10 a.m., strike our
tents and start for the Basé Settite, to the great disgust of our men,
who manifest a decided disinclination to visit that locality. We lunched
at Khor-Maiateb on a nice piece of table-land overlooking a beautiful
sheet of water, and shaded by tamarisk, tamarind, and other trees. This
place simply swarmed with crocodiles. I saw a great many Marabou-storks
and two Egyptian geese; one of the latter I managed to bag, and part of
the skeleton of a hippopotamus—the carcase of which, I doubt not, had
provided a rare feast for his slayers.
After lunch we pushed on, and very soon travelled over some vile country.
First of all over very stony road, then down a very steep declivity, over
rocks and big stones, next up a mountain side of the same character—no
road, no pathway even; then along a mountainous pathway, through an
awfully sterile country, covered with nothing but leafless trees,
withered grass, and precipitous rocks, finally encamping at Boorkattan,
above the most gigantic rocks of basalt, of great extent, these again
overlooking the river. We can see, probably a day’s march from here, an
immense tall mountain in Abyssinia, on the summit of which is said to be
a fortress. We found the large footprints of the hippopotamus in the
sand by the river, and quite expect to have him in the morning.
We find before night that we are in Abyssinia, so that it is quite
evident Mahomet Sali has not adhered strictly to the truth, as here we
are positively in Abyssinia in one day’s march. I indulged three times
after our arrival in a bath in the river. I dare not dive into any of
the pools, fearing that a crocodile might consider me a delicate morsel,
but picked out a kind of cradle on the edge, where I could lie down
comfortably.
March 5th.—We hear that there is an Abyssinian village about seven miles
from here, and that our men are determined they will not proceed any
further than this camp. They also think that our camp, pitched as it is
on such elevated ground, can be plainly seen by Abyssinians, who they
quite expect will make an attack on us to-day. Should they do so, we
should come off badly, as there are no means of forming a zareeba. It is
quite apparent that they did not feel easy in their minds last night, as
a considerable number near my tent were chattering away half the night,
instead of going to sleep or allowing me to do so.
After breakfast Beyrumfi was sent for. A great pow-wow ensued, he
definitely stating that we can go no further without getting right among
Abyssinians, that the country is so rocky, wild, and mountainous that
hunting is impossible, and the camels cannot travel there. Accordingly
orders are given to load up the camels and return to Khor-Maiateb, where
we lunched yesterday.
I had just fixed my bag, rifle, &c., on my camel, when Mr. Aylmer came
running to me, rifle in hand, saying, “Doctor, get your rifle and
revolver ready. Some of our men say that they have seen a large body of
Abyssinians coming down on us, some on horseback and some on foot; but
at present they are a pretty good distance off.” Our caravan was nearly
ready to start. Of course we all armed ourselves pretty quickly; then
saw some of our camel-drivers (one old fellow particularly) working
themselves up into a frenzy of excitement, leaping about like lunatics,
at the same time brandishing their spears in a most threatening manner,
indicative of what would be the fate of the enemy should they appear. As
we looked upon this performance as so much waste of time, we scruffed
these fellows, boxed their ears, and told them to make haste and
load up their camels, which they did with a will. As a rule they are
generally a couple of hours loading, but now they were wonderfully quick,
accomplishing the work in half the usual time. We got off in safety, and
arrived at Khor-Maiateb in the afternoon. Temperature, 95° in the shade.
March 6th.—Crocodiles are rather too common here to be pleasant, and
interfere with the luxury of the morning and evening bath. To avoid any
unpleasant _contretemps_, I generally collected together several big
stones by the side of a large pool, threw them in one after the other to
frighten the crocodiles away, then threw myself in. This device proved
eminently successful, enabling me to enjoy a plunge and a short swim. I
need scarcely say I did not fool about long in the water, fearing they
might return to see what white object was swimming about.
To-day we used the large net, and landed 210lbs. of different kinds of
fish. Keeping sufficient for our dinner, the rest was divided between our
men, who ate what they wanted, throwing the remainder into the bushes or
anywhere round the camp, causing an insufferable stench next day, which
we did not get rid of until the fish had been all gathered up and thrown
into the river.
March 7th.—The little canvas boat is in great request, and enables us to
go a good way up and down the river. The net was used to some purpose
to-day, for we landed 360lbs. of fish and one turtle. At 12 a.m. about
20 Basé came to us with information that elephants are not far off, as
they saw and heard them; also that on the 5th, near our last camp, whilst
they were looking for wild honey, the Abyssinians swooped down on them,
killed several, including the Sheik’s son, and stole three women and a
few children. No doubt these were the very fellows who were coming down
on us. When we discreetly and gracefully retired, they found us gone,
and so seized the Basé. After lunch Messrs. A. and W. James and Colvin
mounted their horses and went in search of the elephants. Temperature,
96° in the shade.
March 8th.—About 11 a.m. two or three Basé (who accompanied Messrs. James
and Colvin yesterday) returned, saying that the latter had shot two
buffalos, one of which was killed, the other wounded only, and that they
had seen plenty of elephant tracks but no elephants. At 4 p.m. they all
returned, having tracked and secured the wounded buffalo, and an ariel. A
crocodile, fish-eagle, and an enormous horned-owl fell to my gun to-day.
Temperature, 98° in shade.
March 9th.—Temperature, 100° F. dry bulb, wet bulb 71°, solar thermometer
156°. So far this is the hottest day I have ever experienced. Whilst
bathing to-day I put my towel near the water’s edge to stand on, as the
stones were like hot coals to the feet. We have cleared many of our
followers and men out of camp to-day. The Basé, Mahomet Sali, Beyrumfi,
and all the Beni-Amirs have been discharged for misleading us. Messrs.
F. James and Phillipps have gone in quest of game, and Messrs. Colvin,
A. and W. James have returned to the same place as before in search of
elephants.
March 10th.—Last night seven or eight rifle reports from the other camp
reached us. At 1 p.m. they were accounted for by Messrs. Colvin and
company, who arrived in camp. They had shot at and wounded two buffalos
(one a bull). Two or three lions had attacked one of the wounded, leaving
very distinct marks of the struggle; still, the buffalo had managed to go
on. They tracked him for some distance, but the heat became so great by
mid-day—101° in the shade—that they had to desist. Another, wounded in
the night, they followed up nearly to the jungle, when suddenly he darted
on to them, charging most furiously in Mr. A. James’ direction. He,
however, saluted him with two eight-bore bullets in the chest, which had
the effect of turning him from his purpose, and causing him to change his
plan, for he turned and then charged Mr. Colvin, who, very fortunately
for him, happened to give him a bullet in the fore leg at very close
quarters, as the buffalo fell right against him with some violence, and
sent him reeling on the ground. I should think this was about as close to
an enraged wounded buffalo as Mr. Colvin or any other man in his senses
could desire.
We could very frequently get a shot at a crocodile when in the water,
but seldom on land; they seem much too wary to be caught there. I have
often seen them basking in the sun on the bank of the river, crept
cautiously up, and whether they have seen me, smelt me, or I have trodden
on a twig I know not, but before I could get near enough they have all
disappeared in the water. They come up to the surface often. We see a
dark spot in the middle of a quiet-looking pool, and take a pot-shot, but
seldom get the reptile until next day, when we find him floating, but
so mutilated that he is not worth securing. To-day, however, Mr. Aylmer
shot one in the water near the camp, and was fortunate enough to secure
him by the aid of a native, who dived into the pool with a rope, which
he slipped over his upper jaw. I fancy crocodiles prefer white skins to
black, for these black fellows plunge into the water and swim about where
we would not dare to go.
Before the crocodile episode—in fact, just after breakfast—our court
of justice sat. This consisted of ourselves, who were the judges, the
jurors, and the counsel; and I venture to say that strict justice was
dealt out with an even hand. The culprit was a fine, strapping, rather
good-looking fellow of about six feet, a camel-driver. He had been
troublesome on two or three previous occasions, but last night he passed
the bounds of discretion. His brother roused him up in the night to take
his turn at sentry-duty; in return for this he warned his brother that
he would make him suffer in the morning—which he certainly did, as he
got him under some trees and there chastised him severely with a stick.
When we heard of this, the culprit, prosecutor, and witnesses had to
appear before the tribunal. The charge was proved, and the culprit was
ordered 20 lashes of the coorbatch, to be administered by Suleiman, four
camel-men to hold him down. He at once dispensed with the assistance of
the camel-men, and without making any bother at all, laid down on the
sand, face downwards, whilst Suleiman went in search of the coorbatch.
The castigation was duly administered, the fellow taking it without
flinching an atom. When finished he got up, brushed the dust from his
tope, and walked off in his usual manner. He seemed not to bear the least
malice, for some time afterwards he was as busy as anyone helping to land
the crocodile.
March 11th.—Two bull buffalos, a tetél, and nellut were shot to-day.
Scorpions are too plentiful here; we are continually finding them in our
tents, but so far none of us have received any of their dreadful stings.
They belong to the class _Arachnida_. A scorpion has what looks like a
claw in his long tail, through which the poison, which lies in a bag
at the bottom of it, is projected. This tail, preparatory to taking the
offensive, lies curled up on his back, not unlike a squirrel. He can at
will bring this down with considerable force, but only in a straight
line—he cannot twist it to strike.
Whilst strolling up the river-bed with my gun in the afternoon I came
upon Mr. W. D. James, who had just met with a rather curious, and
not altogether agreeable, adventure. He had brought his photographic
apparatus with him, and planted it within a convenient distance from a
pool, intending to photograph gazelles when they came to drink. He was
successful in obtaining a good picture of two—one drinking, the other
looking straight at the camera. Whilst waiting patiently for them,
seated on some rocks under a large baobob tree, he heard a hissing noise
behind him. On turning his head, he saw a snake waving about in an erect
position, with tongue out, looking as if he was about to strike. Mr. W.
D. James did not sit on the stone any longer, but seized a stick, and was
lucky enough to kill it ere he was able to bite.
About a week ago we set some mustard and cress; to-day we had a good
quantity for luncheon, and found it a very agreeable addition.
March 12th.—A few Hamrans called to-day, and are very anxious to
persuade us to go towards Abyssinia, saying they are friendly with the
Abyssinians, and can show us hippos. The offer is not accepted. I find
these fellows do not by any means confine their hunting tendencies to
simply the use of the sword, as I have often found very ingeniously
constructed snares plentifully placed in runs leading to the river.
Doubtless when the animals are thus ensnared they are despatched with the
sword or spear.
I will try and describe the kind of snare: They get a strong branch of a
tree that will bend, not break, into a circle; this they firmly secure.
They have a number of strips of wood, broad at the base, and gradually
getting narrow, converging until they meet in the middle of the circle
bent downwards on one side; these again are firmly secured to the circle.
A hole, perhaps a foot deep, and half a foot or a foot in diameter, is
dug in the ground where the run is. On the top of this hole is placed
the snare, covered with earth, attached by a strong rope to a great log,
or the trunk of a tree. The unsuspecting animal comes to drink, puts
his foot on this, and it slips in. He cannot pull his leg out, for the
harder he pulls the more firmly is he secured, as the sharp spokes stick
into his flesh. It is, in fact, just like a wheel: the tire is the outer
circle, and the axle represents the hole through which his leg goes.
The reason the Hamrans are called sword-hunters is this—I am quite sure
that neither I nor any of our party can speak from experience, as we
never saw the feat performed, but Sir Samuel Baker has: Whilst hunting
the elephant, or giraffe, a Hamran on horseback gallops in front of an
enraged elephant armed with a sword, whilst one behind, similarly armed,
gallops after him. The elephant may elect to turn round and chase the
one behind—in any case, he is between two evils, for eventually the one
behind, whilst the horse is going at full gallop, will, when he is near
enough, jump off and with great dexterity hamstring the elephant with his
long two-edged sword; then, of course, he can easily be despatched. His
tusks are cut off and sold, and his carcase provides a good feast.
Two Basé who had remained in our camp slipped off to the mountains on
seeing the Hamrans in our camp, returning again after their departure. It
is quite evident they do not regard them as friends.
March 13th.—This morning several Hamrans, with the late Sheik’s son,
interviewed us, and seem very desirous of acting as pioneers in this
part of the country. We declined their services. This seems displeasing
information to them, and they also express anger at our having two Basé
in camp. On leaving us they went towards the Basé country. Suleiman
explained this by saying, “The two Basé in our camp, they go soon as they
see these Hamrans. Now he go after the Basé; they kill his father long
time ago. Now he kill all the Basé he find if he strong enough and have
plenty of mens with him.” This was really the case, and the Hamrans were
now hunting the Basé just as we would wild animals. However, they had a
good start, and probably made the best of their way to their country.
Our camels were now being loaded, as we had resolved to move our camp.
Whilst we were preparing, a Hamran came, saying he was sent to tell us
that we had given the Heikota sheik a number of presents, but they had
nothing to do with him. We were now in the Hamran’s country, or soon
would be, and they were not willing for us to kill their game without
permission from their Sheik, adding that if we advanced they would fire
on us. Our reply was, “Tell your friends that our camels are loaded, and
so are we. We are coming your way in less than half-an-hour, and strongly
advise them to save their powder, as that is a game that two can play
at. Threats don’t alarm us in the least. If they are ready to commence
hostilities so are we.” I suppose they thought better of it. Shortly
afterwards we started without hindrance until we got just beyond our old
camping ground, by the Settite, where our tents were then pitched. There
were two hippopotami in the river just here, one of which we saw. The
river was dragged, but they slipped under the net.
March 14th.—Marched from 8.30 a.m. until 2.30 p.m., encamping on a high,
flat table-land overlooking a beautiful sheet of water plentifully
bordered on the bank by trees and bushes in which could be found any
number of beautiful birds and doves. At the back of our camp was a
large wood on perfectly level ground, which gave shelter to myriads of
guinea fowls, doves, and other birds, also vast numbers of baboons.
The occupants of the water were crocodiles, turtle, and very numerous
different kinds of fish. The shore, a little way from camp, was
frequented by Marabou storks, flamingoes, ibis, cranes, storks, Egyptian
geese, herons, crocodile-birds, &c., &c.
This was the most enjoyable camping ground we had yet come to. It was
also the hottest place we had hitherto found, for the temperature at 2
p.m. to-day was 105° Fah. in the shade. During such hot weather a bath
was of course a most delicious thing to indulge in, but I must say I did
so with some trepidation, as the pool in front of us was frequented
by some good-sized crocodiles whom it was as well not to trifle with.
I therefore contented myself, as a rule, with lying down in the water
on the edge where it was shallow. When feeling inclined for a plunge
and swim I invariably adopted the preliminary caution of hurling in
several big stones; on these occasions I was sufficiently discreet not to
remain long in the water, having conceived a very wholesome objection to
furnishing any of these scaly monsters with such a repast as a Williams.
The water was quite tepid, of course from the great heat. This place is
called Omhagger, not far from the village of Ombrager.