WE LEAVE KOOLOOKOO, ACCOMPANIED BY A NUMBER OF THE BASÉ—THE
MAGIC LANTERN—SEE BUFFALO AND GIRAFFE FOR THE FIRST TIME—TWO
BUFFALOS KILLED—A BASÉ FEAST—CURIOUS BASÉ DANCE—THEY DRY THEIR
MEAT ON LINES IN THE SUN—A WOUNDED BUFFALO—HOODOO, CHIEF SHEIK
OF THE BASÉ, VISITS US—A COLUMN OF SAND—A LEPER—THE BASÉ
SQUABBLE OVER THE MEAT—WE ARRIVE AT ABYSSINIA.
On the 3rd February we made a further advance, starting at 11 a.m., and
encamping at 4 p.m., again on the river-bed, at Aibara. This day we
marched for the space of five hours through a forest; the heat was very
great, and the ground over which we travelled was full of large, deep
cracks, often two or three inches wide, caused by the contraction of the
earth, which had been subjected to a continuous baking by the hot sun
since the rainy season. Oftentimes could be seen the great footprint of
an elephant, now quite a moulded one, having been there since the rainy
season. On leaving Koolookoo we were accompanied by about 80 or 100 of
the inhabitants, having nothing with them but spear and shield. We knew
what this meant—that we should have to provide them with food—a rather
large undertaking considering that our own party, including camel-men,
horse-boys, and servants, numbered about 40 or 50. Accordingly a delicate
hint was conveyed to our new body-guard, that our own people would first
of all have to be provided with food; then if there was plenty of meat to
spare they would be quite welcome to it. To this arrangement they amiably
acceded. On _terra firma_ we could have made a good stand with our rifles
and revolvers in case of attack, but had these Basé thought proper,
at a preconcerted signal, to make an onslaught on our long straggling
caravan, I am afraid we should have fared very badly, notwithstanding
our being well armed. However, I think their principal reason for coming
with us was to have a continual feast of meat, an article of diet they
were capable of stowing away as capaciously as a lion would do, and with
as little ceremony. In the evening three sheiks paid us a visit, each
going through the ceremony of “aman.” After dinner the magic lantern was
exhibited, and this excited their astonishment even more than it did
that of the Beni-Amirs. I do not intend to go into a description much of
hunting-scenes, as they would occupy too much space, and I do not think
that the frequent repetition of such scenes would be interesting to the
generality of my readers; besides which I have no doubt Mr. F. L. James
has done this in his book. Suffice it to say that as there was abundance
of game of every description, scarcely a day passed without plenty being
brought into camp.
February 4th.—Off at 10.30 a.m., halt at 5 p.m.; pitch tents at
Maissasser, on the bank of the Mareb, and quite close to jungle. About 12
o’clock, as our camels were slowly winding along the bed of the Mareb,
a grand bull buffalo, an enormous beast, dashed right across in front
of us, raising quite a cloud of dust. This was the first buffalo we
had seen; at half-past 4 p.m. we saw three more, and just afterwards a
giraffe. There was a good deal of chuckling now at the prospect of sport
in store, and we resolved to encamp here for the next two or three days.
To-day we saw miles of country on fire. The country looks much greener in
this neighbourhood; trees and jungle abundant, and water much nearer to
the surface.
February 5th.—Last night, about 11 o’clock, just as I had gone to
sleep, I was considerably startled by several rifle shots, one after
the other. In an instant I was out of bed, rifle in hand, rushed out
of my tent in my slippers and night shirt, not knowing what to think;
the first idea naturally was that we were being attacked. Messrs. F. L.
James and Phillipps, who slept in another tent, were also out, clad in
the same airy costume as myself, and, like me, each with a rifle in his
hand. All this was the work of a minute—we had scarcely time to say,
“Whatever is the meaning of it all?” when close behind my tent, amongst
the thick stems of the tall grass, there was a sound as of a rushing
mighty wind. This was enough; the whole affair was explained at once;
we knew directly that this was nothing less than a herd of buffalos,
and I am very thankful that they just avoided my tent, which could as
easily have been upset by them as a box of matches. It seems that just
after we had gone to bed, the others, Messrs. Colvin, P. Aylmer, W. D.
and A. James, “from information received,” took their rifles (it was
a bright moonlight night) and stole out cautiously to the edge of the
jungle. There they saw a herd of buffalos drinking, and into it they
discharged their rifles with pretty good effect, for about 11 o’clock
this morning one of the herd was found dead in the jungle pretty near
to camp. A camel was sent to the spot to bring home the quarters for
food, and the head, of course, as a trophy. A great number of the Basé
were pretty quickly on the spot; then there ensued such a scene as I had
never before witnessed, and which almost baffles description. I will,
however, endeavour to describe it, as some of my readers might like to be
furnished with particulars. Invalids, persons of delicate organization
and others, might, however, like to omit this little account of a Basé
feast, which I assure them will not have an appetising effect. I may here
say that there is not the least occasion for me to draw on my imagination
and indulge in what some people facetiously call “crackers,” which I have
not and shall not do, as there is no necessity for doing so, there being
abundance of material of a strictly veracious character which I cull from
my diary, written carefully down at the time. Incredible as some accounts
may appear, I must ask my readers to accept these facts without the usual
formula _cum grano salis_. Very well, then, I will write down, and you,
reader, can read, mark, and inwardly digest (if you please) _without_ the
usual proverbial pinch of salt, a description of a scene that I was an
eye-witness of, and if I should somewhat interfere with your enjoyment,
when called from labour to refreshment, don’t blame me, but blame the
Basé. All I can say is, that this is not what incredulous people call “a
traveller’s tale,” but a “true story.” Do not say, “It strikes me that he
doth protest too much.”
I recollect to have seen somewhere or other a pamphlet entitled “The
Stomach and Its Trials.” That useful organ in the human body of Basé does
not appear to be subject to usual inconveniences, but accommodates itself
to circumstances, not unlike an india-rubber bag. The only trials I saw
them suffer was trying how much they could stow away without causing a
rupture of that viscera.
Well, to continue. As soon as the animal was opened they fell upon the
intestines like hungry wolves. Oh! such a scramble for tit-bits. There
were our dusky friends very soon ankle-deep in the viscera, and about
20 pairs of hands clutching at them. Two would perhaps get hold of the
same piece, and pull away like a couple of dogs, until a knife produced
a solution of continuity. Another group could be seen hacking away at
pieces of the liver, and cramming the warm, quivering morsels into their
mouths. One could be seen stuffing a lump of fat into his mouth with
one hand, the other at the same time would be industriously employed in
rubbing this adipose tissue into his hair. Another appeared to have a
predilection for kidneys; and so this disgusting feast went on, until
the whole interior of the animal was consumed, without such absurd
preliminaries as cooking.
One would naturally suppose that I should be busy at my medicine-chest
next day, but not one of them even so much as troubled me for a pill
afterwards. They might truly say, “We are fearfully and wonderfully
made;” and after this exhibition of digestive powers, I should be
obliged to coincide with them. When they had gorged themselves like
boa-constrictors, I should not exaggerate if I said that they presented
a most filthy and disgusting spectacle. Their proportions were quite
aldermanic, and their mouths, faces, and arms up to the elbows were
smeared with fat and gore. Had this buffalo lived a month or two longer
she would have become a mother.
We do not consider very young veal wholesome, but whether the Basé
thought this _very_ young buffalo would be a delicacy they must not touch
I know not; at all events it was brought into camp. We gave it the Basé,
who appeared quite pleased. In less than ten minutes afterwards we saw
three of them engaged in tearing it limb from limb, and eating it without
going through the formality of cooking. The quarters of buffalo, senior,
were divided between our men and Basé; the hide was cut up into sections
and given to the sheiks and others to make into shields.
Messrs. Colvin and Aylmer shot to-day two mehedehét. This is a very
beautiful antelope, possessing a very rough coat, a fine pair of horns,
slightly curved and annulated; is about 13 hands high, and in colour much
resembles the red deer. Messrs. F. L. and W. James stalked an ostrich for
two hours, but did not succeed in bringing him down.
We were encamped on a little plateau by the side of the Mareb, close to a
great jungle. On the opposite side of this wide river-bed were very many
trees of different kinds, and on both sides rocky mountains. Just by our
camp, on the sandy river-bed, the Basé were encamped. Notwithstanding
their mid-day feast on the uncooked internals of the buffalo, they were
ready and willing for another set to in the evening—this time of cooked
meat. Whether this second gorge had a stimulating and intoxicating effect
on them I don’t know, but just as we were off to our various tents for
the night, at 9.30 p.m., we heard strange noises issuing from the Basé
camp. Messrs. A. James, Colvin, and I were curious to ascertain the
cause, so down we went amongst them, and this is what we saw, and what I
have some difficulty in describing:—
All the Basé were engaged in a peculiar dance, four or six abreast, and
so close to each other as to be almost touching; those behind always
treading in the footsteps of those in front, whilst each one held his
spear aloft at arm’s-length. What they were saying I don’t exactly
know, but it was a dance of joy celebrating their feast of meat. A few
words as a solo would be sung, then all would join in chorus. This
went on for about half an hour; then they broke up and went through a
wild war-dance—now flying forwards and darting out their spears at an
imaginary enemy whilst protecting themselves with their shields, then
nimbly retreating, crouching and springing like wild cats. It was a novel
and singular spectacle to see nearly a hundred of these black savages,
with their glittering spears, agile as monkeys, leaping in and out
between about 30 flickering fires on the river-bed. Like the Pharisee of
old, I could not help (mentally) exclaiming, “Thank God I am not as these
men are.”
I then retired to rest, and slept peacefully and soundly until the
following morning.
February 6th.—Soon after breakfast we saw, stretched from tree to tree
near the camp, what appeared like clothes-lines with stockings suspended
on them to dry. The Basé had made ropes out of the palm-leaves, and on
these the meat which they could not then dispose of hung in strips and
festoons to dry. When dried, they would stuff them into gazelle skins,
or bags of some kind, for future use. To-day about 40 of them returned to
Koolookoo, well-charged with meat, both in their own skins and that of
gazelles; the rest remained with us.
This morning another buffalo, which was wounded on the night of the 4th,
was found, but not dead. He, however, received his _coup de grace_ from
Mr. Colvin’s rifle, but not until he had made a furious charge, though
so badly wounded, fortunately without any ill-results. A wounded buffalo
is about as dangerous and fierce an animal as can be met with, and will
charge most savagely if he is only within five minutes of death, provided
his limbs will support him. We had plenty of meat brought into camp, for
in addition to this buffalo, two nellut, a mora, and two buffalos were
shot. Temperature at 1.30, solar thermometer 150°, wet bulb 66°, dry bulb
in shade 90°.
This has been rather an exciting day, as Mr. W. James saw and stalked
three giraffes, but was not successful in getting near enough for a shot.
Sali, the tracker, saw three ostriches and a rhinoceros, the latter
pretty close to him, and I two full-grown elephants a distance off, but
none of them were bagged. No doubt had these elephants been followed up
for a day or so they could have been got at, but they were not. Messrs.
A. James and Colvin followed them up next day for many miles, but not
far enough.
February 7th.—Messrs. Colvin and A. James, who went in quest of the
two elephants, returned about 4 p.m., without having seen them. In the
evening Hoodoo, chief sheik of the Basé, paid us a visit, bringing with
him a pot of wild honey as a present. He went through the formality of
making “aman” with us, after which he squatted on his haunches in the
usual native fashion.
During a long pow-wow which ensued, I was busy making mental notes of
Hoodoo, not by any means complimentary to that august personage. He was a
dirty-looking old fellow, as scantily dressed as his colleagues, nearly
black, with an ill-favoured, sinister cast of countenance, and not by
any means a man whom I should place unbounded confidence in. He received
several presents, amongst others a bernouse and a rather gorgeous-looking
abia (a cloak-looking kind of thing), with gold braid ornamentation
around the neck. He seemed mightily pleased with these. He then joined
his comrades’ camp, and we went to our dinner.
This was rather a nice camping-ground, but quite unsheltered from the
sun by trees. However, we provided a shelter by cutting down some young
trees, fixing them in the ground and making a covering of matting, tall
grass, and palm leaves, which were obtainable close by. So great was the
heat now that the ink dried in my pen ere I could write three lines on
a page of foolscap. However, I was fortunately provided with Mappin and
Webb’s stylographic pen, which is really invaluable in such hot climates.
Always about 12 or 1 o’clock a slight breeze would spring up, producing
occasionally a very curious phenomenon. A very high column of dust
(perhaps half a mile in height) would come whirling and waltzing along
right through the middle of the camp, and so long as it was not hidden
by trees or mountains I could see it spinning on and on, looking in the
distance like a column of smoke. A good deal of sport was obtained in
this neighbourhood, chiefly buffalos and antelopes of different kinds.
February 8th.—We struck our tents and were in marching order by 11 a.m.
After an easy journey through some pretty good country, where vegetation
was abundant, we encamped at 3 p.m. on a nice bit of land by the Mareb
amongst many tall trees and shrubs, which afforded a good shade. Here
we purposed remaining for a week at least, as big game of all kinds was
plentiful, and here for the first time we found rhinoceros’ tracks. This
place is called Maiambasar, and is situated on the border of Abyssinia.
Water is near the surface here. During the journey I have noticed that
as we have got nearer to Abyssinia we have found the water nearer the
surface. We heard panthers, hyænas, and lions last night near camp, but
lions are not so plentiful as they were a few days ago.
February 9th.—Abdullah, a black boy, who looks after my camel, has been
walking very lame during the last few days, having considerable swelling
at the knee. I find he has a large abscess, produced by a guinea-worm. He
comes from Algeden, which is about five days from here between Kassala
and Souheet. He says guinea-worm is very common there and on the White
Nile.
Strange to say, all returned to camp in the evening without having
obtained game of any kind, although out all day. Mr. Aylmer, whilst in
search of game, suddenly came upon a rather curious scene. There, on
the mountain side, scarcely sheltered from the burning rays of the sun,
was an old man suffering from leprosy, miles away, apparently, from any
human being or habitation. Food and water had been placed near him, to
which he could help himself. Mr. Aylmer informed me that the surrounding
atmosphere was charged with the stench arising from the decomposed food
which was scattered around the place. I should say that most probably
that old man furnished a meal for one of the wild beasts ere long.
February 10th.—Two buffalos and two nellut killed this day. One, a bull
buffalo, was an enormous beast, and probably the hero of many a fight,
for one of his horns had been knocked short off, one eye knocked out,
whilst his forehead was covered with scars—evidently a disreputable,
cantankerous old buffalo. His carcase was given to the Basé, who were
well pleased with the donation. The Koolookoo Basé who came with us
through the country would, I daresay, have divided the meat amicably
between them, as their Sheik was with them, but their number had been
materially increased by other Basé.
In the evening, during the division of the spoil, just outside our camp,
a great difference of opinion prevailed as to _meum_ and _tuum_. Knives,
clubs, spears, and staves were freely brandished amid a chorus of yells
and shouts, ending in a scramble for the joints and pieces of meat.
Some of them secured a reasonable share, and trotted with it; others,
again, not so fortunate, would intercept a fugitive caressing, perhaps,
the thigh of the deceased buffalo. Then a desperate struggle would
ensue between them, five or six pulling away in different directions.
Fortunately all was settled without bloodshed, peace reigned in the camp,
and we all retired to our respective tents at a respectable hour.