PATIENTS AT HEIKOTA—LEAVE HEIKOTA—GAME IN THE BASÉ COUNTRY—SEE
OUR FIRST LION—A LION INTERVIEWS THE AUTHOR—TETÉL, NELLUT, AND
OTHER GAME KILLED ON THE MARCH.
On the 22nd January we were up in good time, as there was a good deal
to be seen to ere we continued our march. We intended to return to
Heikota after exploring the Basé country, which we thought would occupy
about four or five weeks. It would not, therefore, be necessary to
take all our baggage with us; accordingly, a considerable quantity was
left behind in Herr Schumann’s zareeba until our return—assuming that
we should do so. I was, as usual, busily occupied after breakfast in
attending to my patients, who not only came from close by, but from long
distances on camels. It had got noised abroad from Kassala that there
was a “Hakeem Ingelese” travelling with these gentlemen, and whenever
we encamped anywhere for a day or two many patients came to visit me.
They appeared inordinately fond of my pills, and would swallow them
with as much avidity as boys in our country swallow lollipops. To judge
from what was expected of me, they must have thought that I was endowed
with almost supernatural powers. One boy was brought to me whose hip
had been dislocated a year or so before; another person who had been
positively blind from ophthalmia two years, hoped I could let in a stream
of welcome light: Alas! poor fellow, I could not make the blind see, or
the lame walk, under such circumstances. However, I was often able to
effect cures in some and relief in other cases, and when we returned to
Heikota many grateful patients came to thank me; one would give me some
dhurra, another a skin of milk, an Arab knife, a spear, a sheep, and so
on. Gratitude even is pleasing to a doctor, although sometimes a scarce
commodity. We did not succeed in making a start until 4 p.m.; halted at
six. The Sheik, who came part way with us, on returning to his tribe,
said he would join us in the morning, and see us well on the way ere
he interviewed the Basé at Sarcella, whom he had an account to settle
with. During our various conversations with him he informed us that we
should find abundance of shooting of every kind in the country—elephants,
lions, leopards, porcupines, wild cats, hyænas, buffaloes, jackals,
giraffes, ostriches, rhinoceros, antelopes of different kinds, gazelles,
oterops, ariels, maarifs, mehedehét, tetél, nellut, dick-dick, baboons
and monkeys; all kinds of birds; falcons, Egyptian hawks, rollo-birds,
paroquets, eagles, vultures, doves, quail, partridges, sand-grouse,
guinea-fowl, and I don’t know what besides—all of which was quite true;
there was really enough of shooting of every description to satisfy the
most ardent sportsman. He also advised us, when we got into the Basé
country, not to have our guns, rifles, and revolvers in cases, but ready
at a moment’s notice, night and day, and this advice we strictly followed
during the whole of our journey.
On the 23rd we marched nine hours, encamping at a place called Toodlook.
Our sleep was rather disturbed in the night by the noise of lions and
hyænas, which came very near the camp. We marched to-day through varied
scenery and pretty country—now along the Mareb, then for two hours across
country, through jungle, again coming on to the Mareb, across it, and
over a plain studded with trees and shrubs, finally encamping by the side
of the Mareb. Whilst our tents were being pitched, Messrs. A. and W.
James and I reconnoitred, soon coming near to a place where there was
some water. Suddenly we discovered, about two hundred yards from us, a
fine lion lying down on a little elevated land, no doubt on the look-out
for some unsuspecting antelope coming to drink. Mr. A. James ran back
to camp for his rifle, crept up, without arousing the suspicion of the
noble beast, and fired, but not being near enough, missed him. The lion
simply got up and calmly turned off into the jungle, where it was deemed
unadvisable to follow him. On our way back to camp we saw one place where
there had evidently been a desperate struggle between a lion and his
prey; the former evidently had the best of it, as we saw a long trail, he
having dragged his supper into some long grass and young palms.
On the 25th we were up and off in good time, leaving Suleiman and the
English servants to follow in charge of the caravan. Last night a
rather curious adventure occurred to me, which might have had a curious
termination. When we arrived at a camping-ground I usually selected the
spot for my tent, quite regardless of where the others were going to be
pitched. On this occasion I had done so, and ordered it to be pitched
under some trees close to young palms and tall grass, some distance from
the others. Suleiman remonstrated with me for doing so, saying that
the Basé or lions might come down in the night. However I would have
it so. Every day whilst we dined a large camp-fire was lighted, as the
nights were very chilly, although the heat was so great in the daytime.
Around this we smoked and chatted over politics, English friends and the
events of the day, and plans for the future, skinned birds or animals,
wrote letters, or posted up diaries. At half-past nine or ten o’clock we
gradually melted away one by one to bed. On this night I was the last,
having stayed to have an extra pipe. At last I lighted my lantern, was
walking off to, and had nearly reached, my tent, when I was startled by
a low growl issuing from a thick growth of young palms, about a dozen
yards from my tent; there was no mistaking the nature of the growl, and
I rapidly executed a retrograde movement, poked my head into the nearest
tent, calling out to the semi-sleeping occupants thereof, “I say, did you
hear that salutation just as I was going to my tent?” Answer by Mr. F. L.
James and Mr. Phillipps, “No; what was it, doctor? We were just going to
sleep.” “Why, it is a lion close to my tent, and there is no mistaking
it.” They laughed immensely, and seemed to think it a good joke, but
jumped up and came with me towards my tent, I think slightly incredulous.
Their incredulity was, at all events, quickly dispelled, as the lion, by
another louder expression of opinion, gave us distinctly to understand
that he was not only in unpleasant proximity to, but had his eye on us.
Again an _extremely_ rapid retrograde movement by the trio ensued, and
a joking remark from Lort Phillipps, “Doctor, you will be dragged off
to-night, as sure as fate,” and a consoling remark from Mr. F. James that
the lion was perhaps hungry. We seized some burning brands from the fire,
and piled on a large number of dried palm leaves in front of my tent. I
then retired to rest in peace, and when I arose in the morning my friends
were, I hope, pleased to find I was not in pieces. We heard both lions
and panthers in the night pretty near to us, but so long as they did not
visit the camp we did not care. In the morning at breakfast the Sheik
was highly amused by an account of my night’s experience, and extremely
jocular over it. This day we killed two tetél on the march, and caught
fifty-seven sand-grouse in a net, but only kept sufficient for dinner and
luncheon. One of our courses at dinner was an omelette of ostrich eggs.