LEAVE KASSALA—CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY—MEET BENI-AMIR ARABS ON
THE RIVER BED—THE BAOBOB TREE.
All being ready, we started off from Kassala at 3 p.m. on the 17th
January, intending to reach Heikota within three days. We encamped at
8 p.m., and next day were off at 9 a.m., marching until 6 p.m.—temp.
90° in shade. Fine trees became more numerous; the country looked much
greener, and water was usually obtainable every day simply by digging
a few feet in the sandy river-bed. This day we passed through a large
field of dhurra. To guard this from elephants, birds, and buffaloes
several platforms were erected in different parts of the field about
10 or 12 feet high, and on these boys and men spent the whole day
unsheltered from the scorching rays of the sun—which was like a ball of
fire—cracking whips and uttering hideous noises. We came across distinct
and recent tracks of a lion, two full-grown and one young elephant. I
also saw a few monkeys, a musk cat, several young tiger-cats and hundreds
of guinea-fowl. We shot on the march one eagle, two ariels, and two
gazelles; the latter are not so hard and dry as those in the desert.
[Illustration: THE KASSALA MOUNTAIN.]
On the 19th we made the usual march, encamping at Ashberra. The general
character of the country has now become much more varied and interesting.
This day we travelled through tall grass, about 10 feet high, for a
long time—perhaps an hour. When we got out of this we found ourselves
encountering the prickly thorns of the mimosa and kittar bushes. We had
now done with caravan routes entirely, and my camel-riding capabilities
were fully tested as I go up and down hill; now over rocky hills, down
steep banks and across dry river-courses, then through a forest of dhoum
palms, dodging as I go the great projecting strong branches, which appear
strong enough almost to decapitate or sweep me off my camel. Then, by
way of variety, we pass through a mile or two of the horrid cruel thorns
of the mimosa and kittar trees, which every now and then bury themselves
in my flesh, and tear my clothes and helmet as I duck my head to avoid
having my face lacerated. The camel, of course, walks on in the most
unconcerned manner, just as if he was on open ground, taking no notice
whatever of these obstructions, but brushing past them as if they were
twigs or straws. Everything, even the smallest of the mimosa tree, is
armed with long, strong, very sharp thorns. Each thorn is as sharp as a
needle and about an inch long; indeed, the native women use them as a
cobbler does his awl, and I have often seen a woman using the thorn to
pierce a girba and shreds of the palm leaf to sew it up with. The thorns
of the kittar bushes are quite semicircular in shape, very near to each
other, not long but very strong, and each successive thorn crooks in a
different direction to its predecessor—one crooks up and the other down.
When they catch hold of anyone they stick to him as close as a brother.
If my clothes get entangled, I must stay and pick myself out, or if I
elect to go on without doing so, I must submit to having my clothes, and
perchance my flesh, effectually torn across. We saw _en route_ a great
many baboons, vultures of course always, eagles, thousands of doves,
guinea-fowl, and recent tracks of elephants, lions, and leopards. Mr.
Phillipps and I, whilst stalking some gazelles in a large palm-grove,
lost the caravan for hours, and just as we emerged from it on to the
wide river-bed of the Mareb we came upon a large number of the Beni-Amir
tribe in that semi-nude condition, which is so fashionable amongst them,
watering their goats and cattle. We dismounted and joined the sable
throng, made them understand that we should like some goat’s milk, which
they gave us, after which we showed them our pocket and hunting knives,
revolvers, and watches. We were at once surrounded by an admiring throng
of our new acquaintances, who seemed greatly pleased with what they saw,
but when I applied my watch to the ear of one his surprise and delight
was immense, for he had never in his life seen a watch before. The
ticking tickled him greatly, so much so that he pushed all his friends
forward one after the other to participate in his joy. However, as the
long bushy hair of these fellows was streaming with fat, I observed
caution.
January 20th.—We were off at 9.30, and had not far to go ere we reached
Heikota, where the Beni-Amir tribe then lived. This was the shortest
march we ever made, for we arrived there at 11 a.m., amongst the most
luxuriant vegetation, encamping just by a huge baobob tree (_Adamsonia
digitata_), 51 feet in girth. Large as this may seem, it is not by any
means as large as they grow—they are frequently 60 to 85 feet in girth.
The trunk is not above 12 feet high ere the branches are put forth. The
flowers are in proportion to the size of the tree, and followed by a
fruit about 10 inches long. This looks like a greenish pod or capsule,
having a bloom on it such as we see on a plum; on breaking the capsule
we find a large number of granular-like substances very much resembling
pieces of white starch packed closely together, which have an agreeable
sub-acid flavour. When this white substance, which is very thin, is
dissolved, and it does so readily in the mouth, we came to a dark,
brownish little stone, very much like a tamarind stone in appearance,
but smaller. When dry, the pulp, by which the seeds are surrounded, is
powdered and brought to Europe from the Levant, under the name of _terra
sigillata lemnia_—the seeds are called _goui_.