LANDING--MARCH UP THE COUNTRY--FIRST BRUSH WITH THE REBELS.
On the fourth day after leaving Simon's Town, we dropped anchor in
Algoa Bay, opposite the town of Port Elizabeth, which, though rather
a dull-looking place at first sight, with its background of bare
sand-hills, improved on better acquaintance.
Here the troops were transferred to large boats, from which again, one
by one, we were all carried ashore, through a tremendous surf, sitting
astride on the shoulders of naked Fingoes; tall, athletic fellows,
adorned with armlets and necklaces of brass and beads, and wearing
pendant in front, a most grotesque and sometimes elaborate ornament,
which as much astonished our men, as it excited their merriment. Our
landing on the 16th of the month was an odd coincidence, as we had
sailed from Cork on the 16th of March, and crossed the line on the 16th
of April.
Towards evening the whole of the troops were landed, and our tents
pitched on the top of the bare bleak hill behind the town.
Most of the bedding having got thoroughly soaked in passing through the
surf, many of us slept in our plaids on the bare ground, which some of
the youngsters rather preferred, as a hardy soldier-like sort of thing.
Here we were detained three days, unable to procure sufficient
oxen for the baggage waggons, as in consequence of a long drought
and scarcity of pasture the cattle had died off in hundreds, those
that survived being in such a miserable plight that two could with
difficulty do the work of one in ordinary condition.
The camp was besieged from morning to night by crowds of various
races, Africanders, Hottentots, Malays, and Fingoes, as different in
costume as in complexion; some gaily dressed in startling cottons,
with gaudy _douks_ or bandanas on their woolly heads; others with
large brass skewers stuck Chinese fashion through their long black
hair; some wrapped in a simple cowhide, or dirty blanket; and many
with little encumbrance beyond their brass and copper ornaments, or
the naked little niggers tied on their backs. Horses of all ages and
descriptions, from unbroken colts to broken-down screws, and of all
colours, from a "voss" to a "blue schimmel," were paraded for sale, and
trotted up and down, spurred, "jambokked," and gingered all day long.
As every officer required two animals, one for riding and another for
his pack-saddle, the demand greatly increased the already high prices,
and we had to pay at least double their ordinary value.
On the fourth day after landing, tents were struck at eight in
the morning, and we marched through the long straggling street of
Port Elizabeth, accompanied for some distance out of the town by a
motley crowd, screaming and dancing round the band. A long train
of about thirty lumbering waggons, each drawn by ten or fourteen
of the largest bullocks we had ever seen; carrying immense and
most inconvenient-looking horns, brought up the rear. Naked little
"voorloupiers"[1] led the teams, which were driven by dwarf Hottentots
flourishing enormous bamboo whips eighteen or twenty feet in length,
the incessant cracking of which was like the report of so many pistols,
as they descended with volleys of Dutch oaths on the backs of the
unfortunate oxen answering to the names of Schwartlande, Bluberg, or
Scotlande.
The country was most monotonous, and but for such features of novelty
as strange shrubs and plants presented, uninteresting enough, being
little more than a succession of bare sandy flats, and low hills
sprinkled with bush, here and there a large salt-pan, and occasionally
clumps of aloes and elephant tree,[2] a large bush with round fleshy
leaves of an agreeable acid, the favourite food of the elephant, which
only a few years back inhabited the whole of this district. The sun
was scorching hot; clouds of fine sand, raised by the moving column,
floated round, filling eyes and mouth; and altogether the men (judging
from their remarks) appeared to entertain a very indifferent opinion of
Africa.
After fourteen miles we came to the Zwartkop river, and crossing the
_drift_ or ford, encamped among the scattered mimosas, bristling with
gigantic white thorns, on a piece of short, smooth grass, at the foot
of a hill, completely covered with aloes, drawing up the waggons in
line, and _knee-haltering_ the horses, which were turned loose to feed
with the oxen till dark.
A brilliant moon rose early, and we sat round a cheerful camp-fire,
smoking our first pipe in what might be called the bush; the long
lines of tents and white-topped waggons peeped from among the dark
trees, bright fires encircled by red coats shone everywhere; the oxen
tied to the yokes lay grouped together, the horses stood sleeping, the
Hottentots scraped their fiddles and screeched under their waggons, and
in the distance the sentinels paced up and down their beat; while above
the general hum, rose every now and then the loud laugh and merry song,
finishing occasionally with the mournful howl of a jackal.
Next morning, after ascending the steep winding road cut through a
forest of large African aloes, we marched to Coega River, where,
learning that there was no water to be had for the next twenty miles,
we were obliged, on account of the oxen, to halt for the day. We had
good sport at buck-shooting, and I got a beautiful tiger's skin from a
native who had but just stripped it from the carcass of its late owner.
Owing to the general reluctance that had hitherto been displayed to
turning out of bed in the middle of the night to march, we were aroused
the following morning at one o'clock, by the effectual but not very
agreeable mode, of pulling down the tents at the sound of a bugle,
without the ceremony of asking those within whether they were prepared
for a public appearance.
It was still bright moonlight when we _fell in_, and so bitterly cold
that our half-frozen fingers and toes had hardly recovered their
natural warmth when we halted for breakfast, after a five-miles walk in
rear of the snail-paced waggons.
After two or three hours' grazing, the oxen were inspanned, and our
march continued for fifteen miles through dense bush; the laborious
track ankle deep in soft sand, and so narrow in places that the waggons
could barely brush through, the men being obliged to march in file. The
sun was by this time intensely hot, and we were without a drop of water
to moisten our lips, which were swollen and blistered by the heat.
Towards noon we came to a "poort," or natural hollow between high banks
covered with aloe and dwarf euphorbia, the sand thickly incrusted with
salt. The reflected heat of the sun was intolerable; not a breath of
air was stirring; all around was still as death, and the atmosphere so
stifling that many of the men were on the point of fainting, though
a few hours before benumbed with cold. Shortly we came to a muddy
stagnant pool, literally hot from the noontide sun: but so great were
the sufferings of the troops, that they rushed almost into it, throwing
themselves down by sections on the miry banks, and greedily drinking
the fetid green water.
In the afternoon we pitched our tents on a burning plain; and never
did I enjoy anything so much as a bathe that evening in the gloomy
crocodile-suggesting-stream, called Sunday River, whose sluggish water,
overhung by deep forest, scarcely moved the twigs that dipped into
it. After this refresher, we all dined together at the little lonely
inn; the rooms of which were covered, from the ceiling to the floor,
with the skins of lions and tigers; shot, as the host assured us,
"within sight of the house." During the night, my tent pole, which had
already shown rickety symptoms, gave way from the overstraining of the
canvass, tightened by the dew, and down came the wet tent on our faces,
nearly smothering C----n, my companion in misfortune. We cut an odd
figure in the moonlight, in our shirts and red woollen caps, creeping
from under the fallen tent, and in that airy costume clearing away
the wreck, turning in again between our blankets on the open plain;
where, at the risk of being walked over by orderly officers and stray
horses, we slept soundly until _réveillé_, when awaking, I found every
article of clothing thoroughly saturated with dew; in spite of which,
it was impossible to resist laughing at the autumnal appearance of my
comrade, whose nightcap, hair, and eyebrows were heavily loaded with
sparkling dewdrops.
After about an hour's marching, the sun rose, and we met a returning
party of traders going down to the Bay with several waggon-loads of
skins, escorted by about a score of naked Fingoes. In the forenoon we
arrived at Commando Kraal, where was an encampment of Fingoe Levies,
stationed at the entrance of the dangerous Addo-bush, in which, a short
time previously, one or two rencounters with the Kaffirs had taken
place. A small party of them joined us, armed with flint-locks and
assegais, and dressed in the most grotesque manner possible.
This dense and beautiful bush extends for miles on every side; its
solitary depths impassable except to Kaffirs and wild beasts, hundreds
of which latter roam through it undisturbed. Tigers, hyænas, wild-cats,
and jackals abound; and buffaloes and elephants are still occasionally
seen, of which we had convincing evidence in the fresh spoor of three
of the latter, whose enormous foot-prints were distinctly visible, and
made one's heart beat with excitement at the idea of being in a country
where such noble beasts roamed wild and unrestrained. The waggon
track was in many parts very beautiful, sometimes so narrow that the
overhanging trees, covered with festoons of grey pendant lichen, met
above it; in others, opening out into smooth green lawn-like patches,
surrounded by brilliantly flowered trees and shrubs (as the crimson
boerboon,[3] and the yellow mimosa, with its gigantic milk-white
thorns); everywhere clusters of the beautiful pale blue plumbago, with
numberless aloes and occasional euphorbias, rising to the height of
thirty feet; the underwood filled with the "stapelia," "gasteria,"
and other varieties of cactus. The heat of the sun was again most
oppressive, shut in as we were between walls of bush, so close, that
not a breath of air found its way through. The oxen were so completely
done up, that they could scarcely draw the heavily-laden waggons
through the deep sand, and numbers fell, to die on the roadside, or
were abandoned a prey to the wild beasts and vultures.
Halting for half an hour to rest the cattle at the top of a heavy hill,
a lovely view presented itself: in the foreground, the road we had just
passed, winding down into the bush below; beyond that, a vast extent
of flat, thickly-wooded country; and far off, a fine chain of rugged
mountains, mellowed by the purple atmosphere of the distance, into a
mistlike softness.
Late in the day, we entered on an extensive grassy plain, affording a
grateful relief to the eye, after the close smothering road through the
bush. Three distant specks on the vast level proved, when we came up,
to be as many waggons outspanned by a large "vley" or pool of water;
their owners, a company of traders, cooking supper and smoking their
pipes, looked a picture of ease and comfort, strongly contrasted with
our dusty and way worn appearance. We saw several "duykerbok," and
encamped at sunset, driving in our last tent-pegs by the light of a
beautiful moon.
Across this plain, thinly covered with brown burnt-up grass, we
marched the following day, for twelve miles, in clouds of fine sand,
borne along by a hot wind that rendered it disagreeable and wearying
in the extreme; and without seeing anything to enliven or interest,
excepting a fine secretary bird and a number of tortoises; two large
_cobra capellas_ were killed, one of which bit a pet terrier-dog, that
immediately began howling and barking, running round and round, falling
down and foaming at the mouth. Its body swelled out enormously, and
it soon afterwards died. We encamped for the night at Bushman's River,
where we were only able to get a little thick stagnant water of the
colour and consistence of a dose of rhubarb, and were on the road again
by four, A.M.; outspanning after five miles for breakfast, by a pool
of fresh water, which was most welcome, after having had nothing to
drink for the last twenty-four hours but the single draught of liquid
mud. While searching in the thicket for dry firewood, we came upon a
colony of monkies, which highly resented our intrusion, chattering and
gesticulating in the most angry manner.
Towards mid-day we came in sight of a small settlement, with the
exception of the solitary inn, the first sign of human habitation we
had seen for four days. The houses, seven in number, standing in the
open plain, were enclosed by stockades, and barricaded with boxes,
bags, chests and barrels, filled with sand, and piled up against the
doors and windows; the neat little English church, about which we
found the few inhabitants just assembling for divine service (it being
Sunday,) was loop-holed, and barricaded within by furniture of all
descriptions, an indication of our approach to the neighbourhood of the
disturbed districts.
Our route the following day lay for some miles through an uninteresting
succession of low, undulating grassy hills, totally devoid of tree or
bush, but thickly covered with enormous ant-hills, many of them four
feet high, neatly built, rounded, and baked as hard as stone.
At Assegai Bush we were met by a convoy of twenty additional waggons,
sent from Graham's Town, to lighten our own, and enable us to proceed
with greater dispatch. They were escorted by about fifty Fingoe Levies,
armed as usual, with guns and assegais; their felt hats ornamented
with the feathers of the Kaffir crane, the ostrich, vink, and lorie,
jackall's brushes, or strips of tiger skin; and wearing suspended from
the waist by steel chains of their own manufacture, bags or purses,
called _daghasacs_, ingeniously made without a seam, of the entire skin
of the wild cat, dossie, or monkey (the opening at the neck being the
only one, through which the whole of the flesh and bone is removed);
in these they carry their pipes and tobacco, the _iquaka_ or snuff box
(made of a small gourd, with bead ornaments, and horn or metal spoons
attached, similar to those in use in the Highlands); with their flint
and steel, charms, and other odds and ends.
Thus relieved, the oxen jogged cheerily on, and the march was prolonged
several hours beyond our usual distance. At sunset, on leading our
horses to drink at a small vley, near the edge of the bush, we found
the fresh spoor of a tiger, the prints of his massive feet being
quite plain in the mud. After nightfall we crept more slowly on; the
waggons jolting and creaking heavily along the rough road, bumping up
against the huge stones, and diving into the deep gullies, or "sluits,"
with which it abounded. At last we halted, and groping about in the
dark, tumbling into jackall's holes and running into prickly bushes,
managed to pitch our tents on the worst piece of ground imaginable;
and, as it was out of the question to find wood, we gave up the idea
of fires; though it had already begun to rain; and turned in, hoping
to sleep soundly after a thirty miles march. In this we were however
disappointed, for a great number of the tents blew down during the
night, in a high wind, that tore up the tent pegs from the soft ground,
and left us exposed to the pitiless pelting of the storm.
But all things have an end, and next morning the sun shone out as
brightly as ever; and the face of the country looked fresher and
greener than before. Our road led for some miles through a fine
_poort_, or glen; shut in by high bold rocky hills, with prickly-pear,
scarlet and lilac geraniums, and African aloes in full flower, growing
in every nook and crevice; the steep road winding by the course of a
mountain stream, along which grew hundreds of the large white arum,[4]
orange-coloured salvias, and a host of other flowers; whilst chattering
flocks of the bright golden green spreuw,[5] honey-birds and orioles
flitted among the tall jungle, and flew from branch to branch.
After toiling some hours up a steep and most execrable road, we came
in sight of Graham's Town, with the size, situation, and general
appearance of which, we were somewhat disappointed. It is a straggling
place, situated in the midst of a bare piece of country, surrounded by
equally bare hills. We marched through the town, to Fort England, and
pitched our tents on the turf-covered square, in front of the officers'
quarters--detached cottages, with small gardens, enclosed by hedges of
prickly-pear. Here we remained two or three days, preparing for the
field, and awaiting orders from General Somerset, to whose division we
were attached. Our bonnets and plaids were replaced by a costume more
suitable for the bush--viz., a short dark canvas blouse; in addition,
to which feldt-schoen, and lighter pouches, made of untanned leather,
were issued to the men, and broad leather peaks fixed to their forage
caps, forming as light and serviceable a head-dress as possible. We
further provided ourselves with pack-horses, pack-saddles, patrol
tents, camp kettles, saddle-bags, black servants, and a hundred other
necessaries.
On Monday morning, just as the waggons were loaded, and we were on
the point of marching out of the place, an express arrived from the
General, countermanding the move, in consequence of information he
had received of an insurrection among the Hottentots of Theopolis, a
station of the London Missionary Society, and the common focus of the
rebels of the district. About seventy Hottentots with their wives and
families resided there, and amongst them several Fingoes. The former
having been joined the previous day by other rebels and Cape Corps
deserters, formed their plans and proceeded to carry them into effect
next morning at day-break, by murdering in cold blood the loyal and
unsuspecting Fingoes, whom they shot down as they were leaving their
huts.
To chastise and disperse these rebels and murderers was the object
of our suddenly altered destination; and as they had taken up a
strong position at Theopolis, it was on that point the General now
concentrated all his available force. Two companies of the 74th were
ordered to parade immediately in light marching order (_i. e._,
carrying their blankets on their backs, and leaving their tents
behind), and accompanied by guides, the Albany Rangers and some Levies,
marched at once for the scene of action. We watched them ascending the
steep hills behind the barracks, until they were lost to sight, and
envied them coming in for active duty. However, our time came sooner
than we had hoped, for as we sat at breakfast next morning in our
tents, a sudden order arrived for us to march in half-an-hour to join
the former patrol. Away went breakfast things, and all was life. Knives
and forks were quickly succeeded by dirks and pistols; and officers
and men were fully equipped before the appointed time. After some
delay in waiting for a six-pounder field-piece, some artillerymen,
and waggons of ammunition, we marched away to the sound of the old
bagpipes, crossed the mountain, and descended by a very steep road into
a lovely little nook or basin at its foot, where we halted to rest the
oxen, after five miles of very hard work; bivouacking on the grassy
banks of the Kowie, in a pretty spot glowing with African aloes and
salvias, and shut in by trees on every side but the one by which we
had approached, where the mountain towered above us in all its beauty.
Climbing the opposite ascent, we pursued our way through bush and plain
for about twenty miles, halting, some time after darkness had set in,
on the edge of the Brak River, where the troops were ordered to lie
down for a couple of hours' rest. Determining to make the most of the
time, I threw myself down at once in my plaid, on the ground, under a
snug bush, and endeavoured to snatch a little slumber; but it was so
bitterly cold, and the jackalls howled in such melancholy tones, that
sleep was impossible for the first hour, and I could hardly believe
that my eyes had been closed for more than five minutes, when awakened
by the orderly sergeant, shaking me by the shoulder to rise.
It was a pitch dark night, not a star to be seen, and we marched
on, stumbling against ant-hills, and walking into deep holes of
ant-bears[6] at almost every step, accidents well known to all who have
made night marches in this country. At length we saw, at about five
miles distance, and right ahead of us, the glimmering camp fires of the
other part of our force, and entered their lines at the first streak of
dawn, astonishing them not a little by our unexpected appearance. We
learned that a slight skirmish had taken place with the rebels, from
whom several waggons had been taken. Field Cornet Grey had been killed,
and Commandants Woerst and Stults, with four others of the Levies,
wounded.
We remained here for the next twenty-four hours, awaiting the cover of
night to make our advance upon the enemy's position, from which we were
about twelve miles distant. During the day, which was exceedingly warm,
we refreshed ourselves by bathing in a small stream, and eating oranges
in a grove close to the camp; the trees of unusual size, covered with
ripe golden fruit, from their topmost branches, down to the lowest
boughs, which swept the ground from their weight. Fine bananas grew
among the trees, and a profuse undergrowth of waving grass everywhere;
the place having been abandoned since the commencement of the war.
Late in the day the General arrived in camp with an escort of Cape
Mounted Rifles, making our force about six hundred and forty men,
with eight artillerymen and a field-piece. The troops were ordered
to lie down to rest at an early hour, as we were to move off to the
scene of attack soon after midnight; when all were to fall in quickly
and quietly, and without giving any unnecessary indication of our
movement. About half-past one o'clock we were turned out; and, with
a strange feeling of excitement, heightened by the novelty of our
silent movements, the subdued voices of officers and orderly sergeants,
indistinctly seen through the gloom gliding along the motionless ranks,
I took my place.
In a few minutes we moved off; the cavalry remaining behind for a
couple of hours. The road we had to traverse was most difficult,
abounding for the first few miles in deep holes and innumerable
ant-hills; after which, it became, if possible, worse; entering a
narrow rugged descending defile, a succession of deep steps or ledges
cut through a thick bush, and intersected by sluits or dry watercourses
(large and deep enough, as we very soon found, to contain three or four
men at once), and thickly strewn with large stones and loose rocks,
over which we stumbled and fell at almost every step, five or six being
frequently down at once, and often sustaining severe cuts and bruises.
The General, accompanied by the cavalry, came up just as we were
descending a very steep path, down to the drift over the Kareiga,
and passing us, moved on to the front. At this point, unfortunately,
the forces got separated in the darkness of the night, and being
unacquainted with the country, one company was completely lost in the
bush; while another wandered so far out of the way as to cause great
delay in commencing operations. We approached the enemy's position just
as the day began to dawn, and found our advance retarded by a large
barricade of newly felled trees, thrown across the narrow path at a
point where the bush on either hand was perfectly impenetrable. This
obstruction again delayed us a considerable time, as all were obliged
to file through an opening cut through the close thorny bushes; but
we got over the difficulty much more easily than was expected, and in
a few minutes were formed in order for the attack, at the entrance of
a fine grassy plain, perfectly circular, probably three quarters of
a mile in diameter, and entirely encompassed by a belt of bush about
three miles in breadth all round.
It had been originally intended to place the mounted force in position
behind a stockade which they were to reach by riding noiselessly
along the inner margin of the bush; but as day was approaching there
was every chance of their being discovered, consequently the plan was
abandoned, and they remained with the infantry, which at once entered
the enclosed plain by a narrow road, and on gaining the open space took
"skirmishing order;" two companies extended, two in support, and the
remainder in reserve. The Cape Corps and mounted burghers were formed
on the extreme right of the skirmishers, and we advanced rapidly across
the plain towards the enemy's huts, in rear of which, and under cover
of the bush, the Fingoe levies had been previously placed in ambuscade.
As we advanced hundreds of quail rose so temptingly, that
notwithstanding our momentary expectation of meeting very different
game, we were unable to refrain from exclamations, or to resist
bringing up our rifles and indulging in imaginary shots, until a few
real ones from the enemy quickly reminded us of the more serious
business of the day. A small party of the rebels had suddenly made
their appearance from a "vley" in front of our right wing, and were
immediately engaged with the cavalry, some sharp firing taking place
on both sides. The skirmishers were at once moved forward to cover
them; and the next moment we found ourselves under fire for the first
time, wondering that so many balls whistled around us, without hitting
any one. On seeing our advance the rebels took to flight and made for
the bush, closely pursued by the cavalry, but escaped down a wooded
kloof, from whence for a time they attempted to keep up a scattering
fire, occasionally appearing outside the cover to take a surer aim, and
again dodging quickly behind the bushes to load, not always however
sufficiently so, for our keen marksmen brought down several of them,
and wounded others, which, with the assistance of one or two well
directed vollies, had the effect of completely silencing their fire in
that quarter.
Meanwhile we were approaching the huts on our left; and seeing that
their commander (a deserter, by the way, from the Cape Corps, affecting
the importance of a British officer, and issuing his written orders
in due form), had drawn up his men in line fronting the huts with
the evident intention of contesting the ground, we rapidly "changed
direction" to that flank, the skirmishers wheeling to the left in
double-quick time, and the cavalry bringing their right shoulders
forward and charging towards them at full gallop. The rebels became
panic stricken, fired a few random shots, killing one of the Levies,
and fled to that part of the bush where our Fingoe and Bechuana allies
were posted, from whom they received, to their equal surprise and
dismay, a volley that killed seven or eight of their number, and drove
the rest back into the open space, whence they escaped by the very
outlet which was to have been held by the mounted force. Had it been so
occupied scarcely a man would have escaped them. As it was, the dense
and extensive bush rendered all pursuit hopeless. We therefore turned
our attention to the capture of their ill-gotten spoil, taking 632 head
of fine cattle, some horses and goats, all stolen from the neighbouring
settlers, besides a large quantity of grain, and six waggons. The huts
were well stocked with clothes, cooking utensils, native ornaments, and
furniture, including the recognised property of the murdered Fingoes;
these dwellings set on fire were speedily roaring and crackling like
furnaces. In several were dogs that had been hit by our fire, and in
one hut the exasperated Fingoes had found a wounded Hottentot left
behind by his people. He prayed hard for mercy, but in vain, for one of
them, whom the cruel massacre had deprived of a parent, blew out his
brains before any one could interfere, exclaiming: "Wena! uyabulala
ubawo bam!" (You! murderer of my father!)
While searching about the place a shot was fired at us by some fellow
skulking in the bush, to the edge of which we had incautiously
wandered. Gordon had a narrow escape, as the ball ploughed up the
ground at his feet, and covered him with the soil. The Fingoes
immediately dashed in, in pursuit, making the wood ring with their
yells.
From the elevated site of the smouldering village we had a fine
and unexpected view of the sea at only a few miles distance, the
intervening country, grassy and well wooded, being intersected by the
winding Kareiga. We bivouacked for breakfast, boiling our coffee on the
embers of the huts, and spreading our rations of beef and black biscuit
on the trampled grass, not many yards from the corpses of those who
had fallen. A few stray Kaffirs were espied stealing away through the
open bush in the valley below, and though far out of range, set all the
Fingoes firing away at once in the wildest manner imaginable.
After resting for about half an hour we returned by the road we had
traversed the night before, which was, of course, up-hill all the way
back. It was now intensely hot; and after having marched thirty-five
miles the previous day, and been on foot two nights successively, we
found it heavy work, nearly all being half asleep as we staggered
along the burning road. I found myself several times in a state of
somnambulism, starting out of sleep as I stumbled over the inequalities
of the ground, wondering for the instant where I was. Thus we plodded
on till late in the evening, when jaded and weary we again reached
the bivouac left eighteen hours before, during seventeen of which we
had never rested. The steady and soldier-like manner in which the men
performed this march, so soon after landing from a long sea voyage,
deservedly elicited the commendations of the General in Orders. It was
with a feeling of relief and pleasure, known only to those who have
undergone the excessive fatigues of such a forced march, that we threw
ourselves down to rest, and kicked the shoes off our burning feet.
It was late the following afternoon when we again halted at the Kowie
River, at the foot of the mountain, and the oxen being too much
exhausted to drag the waggons up, we encamped there for the night.
Having neither bread nor biscuit left, we made a supper of beef and
cold water, refreshing ourselves, after sleeping three nights in our
clothes, by a moonlight bathe in the cold stream. Next morning all were
under way at three o'clock, and before day dawned were near the top of
the mountain road looking down on the fires we had left, glimmering
far below in the yet dark valley. The camp at Fort England was reached
in time for a somewhat late breakfast, during which we had more than
enough to do between satisfying our own voracious appetites and the
eager inquiries of those who had so unwillingly been left behind.
General Somerset, on his return to Graham's Town, received despatches
from the Commander-in-chief of such a nature as to induce him to march
us at once up the country to Fort Hare. Accordingly we struck tents
next morning, though it was Sunday, and proceeded to Bothas Hill that
afternoon, whence we had our first view of the lofty rugged chain of
the Amatolas, gazing upon them in the blue distance, with no little
interest, as our reported destination, and feeling that at last we
were fairly off for Kaffirland. The view from this hill was splendid:
endless chains of mountains; dark and wooded kloofs; sunny valleys, and
grassy plains, dotted with mimosa; all clad in a depth and variety of
colouring forming a picture as difficult to describe as to forget.
The following morning we entered the Ecca Pass, the terror of
waggon-drivers and "post-riders," and notorious as the scene of
many fatal ambuscades. The road winds along a deep narrow valley
between high hills covered with dense thorny bush, and has a high
wall of rock on the one hand, on the other a precipitous ravine, with
admirable cover for Kaffirs everywhere, and is, perhaps, one of the
most villanous specimens of a high road in the known world, abounding
throughout its entire length with rocks of all sizes, from that of a
"company's arm-chest" downwards; holes in the middle of it as deep as
an ordinary horse-pond. On the one side the yawning precipices encroach
on the crumbling path; while on the other some communicative driver
points to overhanging crags and unapproachable cliffs, from which
unsuspecting escorts and parties of horsemen are frequently fired upon
by lurking bands of the enemy; with what fatal effect is evidenced by
the bones and dried up hides of oxen and horses lying in the track.
At a turn in the road, where only three days before a mounted express
had been attacked, and four of the party wounded, we disturbed a troop
of gorged vultures, which, rising from the half-devoured carcase of
one of the horses, alighted on the rocks above, from the concealed
crevices of which the rebels had taken aim. Within three weeks after
this attack they again waylaid a like party, but with more fatal
effect, two men being killed and four wounded. We were suffered to pass
without molestation. The appearance of our long line, as it moved down
the valley, was very striking; wild-looking Fingoes, strings of oxen
and waggons, the glittering forest of bayonets, straggling Levies,
pack-horses, and camp followers, winding along the hill-side, through
the glowing bush, which was varied by magnificent euphorbias, rivalling
forest trees in height.
Among the rocks were numbers of dossies[7] (a sort of rabbit, with a
rat's head and monkey's hands) and some large baboons.
We emerged from the valley by a steep rough road, called Brak River
Hill, and after a few miles level trek through a sandy country,
sprinkled with thorn bushes, arrived at Fort Brown, a lonely
quadrangular fortification, close to the Great Fish River, on the
opposite bank of which we encamped for the night.
At the Koonap River, where we outspanned for a couple of hours next
morning, two magnificent koodoo were seen, but they disappeared in the
thick bush before any of the stalkers were within rifle range; one
of them was a splendid fellow, as large as a mule, with long upright
spiral horns, full three feet high.
From this the road for some distance ran along the base of a lofty
range of cliffs called the Blue Krantz, an unbroken precipice of grey
rock, at least 100 feet in height, and so perpendicular that a stone
thrown from it would have fallen right among us; its summit fringed
with aloes and overhanging trees, scarlet geranium springing from every
crevice.
After crossing the river by two deep drifts, a few hundred yards
apart, the diverging roads re-united at a deserted military post,
destroyed by the enemy, and we commenced the ascent of the Koonap Hill,
a long winding steep road, strewed, like the pass of the previous
day, with the bones and carcasses of horses and bullocks, victims,
not of savages, but of civilized cruelty; in our own case, one after
another, twenty-one oxen were left dying or perfectly exhausted on the
hill-side, and it was with the greatest difficulty that the remainder,
weakened by long scarcity of pasture, were goaded to the top, though
each waggon was drawn up by a double span, or team, driven by four or
five screaming swearing Totties, who, besides their terrific whips,
every cut of which left a long bare bleeding streak, used a heavy
"jambok" of rhinoceros hide, six feet long, and as thick as a man's
wrist at the handle, and at every stand-still, when these failed, bent
the unfortunate animals' tails till they broke, biting them savagely.
The extensive range of country seen from this hill increased in beauty
as we ascended the road which ran along the edge of the ravine, fringed
with majestic euphorbias; in the distance deep blue mountains, and
plains of red sand, then wavy bush-covered hills, and in the valley
below us the winding river, and our rear guard, with their long line of
waggons slowly advancing.
It was not till the afternoon that the last waggon reached the top of
the ascent. No longer shaded by high wooded banks, we found the sun
oppressively hot as we trekked along through endless clumps of dusty
spek-boom, or elephant tree. In the evening we had a magnificent sunset
view of the Amatolas; and just as night set in came to a halt (after a
march of about two and twenty miles) at Lieuw Fontein (lion's spring),
close to a small military post standing alone in a desolate country,
and garrisoned by some Hottentot Levies, under an officer of the line,
who must have had a lively time of it, as no one dare go beyond the
gates, except with a strong mounted escort.
Orders were issued to march at eight next morning, a most gentlemanly
hour, as all agreed, and the more cordially as the distance to be
performed was only six miles, to the Kat River, to pasture the oxen,
which now absolutely required rest and food. They were turned out to
graze under the protection of a subaltern's guard, while we hastened to
purify ourselves in the rocky stream, protected by an armed party on
the willow banks; for some dozen Kaffirs in red blankets were seen on
a low hill about a mile off, their attention apparently divided equally
between the herds and the bathers.
After this welcome rest we resumed our march next morning, but
before many miles were accomplished, the waggons in front came to
a stand-still at the foot of a steep short hill. Judging from its
apparently moderate height we thought the stoppage would only be brief,
but to our surprise, soon observed the more knowing drivers in rear of
the train begin to make deliberate preparation for breakfast, those
nearer the front contenting themselves with a biscuit. Fires were
made, coffee pounded, dirty bags rummaged, and lumps of raw meat drawn
out, studded with copper caps and bits of broken pipe, and plentifully
dusted with crumbs and powdered biscuit; and they were soon at work,
tooth and nail. As for the troops, no orders having been given for
breakfast, from the uncertainty of our movements, we went without.
The last forelouper had finished his scanty pickings and wiped the
greasy clasped-knife on his woolly pate, the drivers had smoked out a
digestive pipe, and were fast asleep under their waggons, before the
"fall in" sounded, and we moved forward. We had wondered at the long
delay, but were more astonished, when we came to the ascent, that it
had ever been accomplished with such heavily laden waggons.
This achieved, the road was tolerably level, and we jogged on at a good
pace to a ruined and deserted missionary settlement, where we were
again brought to a stand by the breaking down of a waggon in the middle
of a drift. There was nothing for it but to unload and carry everything
to the opposite bank, when officers and men set to and spoked it out,
inch by inch; the driver, meanwhile, manufacturing a new "dissel-boom"
or pole out of a young tree.
On approaching Fort Hare, we were met by a large mounted party of
officers who had come out to welcome us, and shortly the place came in
sight, which appeared, from the hill, of considerable size, consisting
of white wooden houses, and dark Fingoe huts, widely scattered round
the fort. Though covering a large extent of ground, the works hardly
deserve the name, being in reality nothing more than a small village of
thatched mud cottages, enclosed by picketting and low walls mounting a
few guns and old musquetoons.
Our arrival was greeted with lively demonstrations of joy by the
coloured population, who headed the band, yelling and dancing in a
state of complete nudity. Our camp, with two others consisting of
Europeans and Fingoe Levies, was on a green level plain, between the
fort and the River Chumie, beyond which rose a fine range of lofty
mountains.
Anything more miserable in the shape of barrack accommodation than the
officers' quarters in the fort can hardly be conceived; uneven floors
of dried cow-dung, bending walls of "wattle and daub," smoke-blackened
rafters and thatch, crazy doors, and ill-fitting windows, which exclude
the light and admit in turn, wind, rain, and clouds of sand, are the
characteristics of the best.
We took advantage of our stay here to ride over in a party to the scene
of the engagement mentioned, which took place on the 29th December, in
attempting to open a communication with the Governor, then blockaded
in Fort Cox; when out of a band of only 230 men, after a hand-to-hand
fight, two gallant officers, Lieutenants Melvin and Gordon, 91st
regiment, and twenty-one privates, were killed, and many wounded. The
ground, a thorny valley, still bore marks of the struggle: rags of
uniform, and old forage-caps, with bones of Kaffirs, lay scattered
about; while from the grave of the soldiers, bones were protruding,
scratched up by jackalls and hyænas, which we carefully buried again in
the best way we could.
About thirty Kaffir and Hottentot prisoners were confined in the fort,
who sat, for the greatest part of the day, sunning themselves outside
the cells, hand-cuffed, and chained two and two. The Hottentots, who
had been taken at the capture of Fort Armstrong, and were awaiting
their trial by court-martial as rebels, looked sulky, and scowled with
a vindictive and villanous expression. The Kaffirs, on the contrary,
laughed and chatted with us, through an interpreter, displaying the
most magnificent teeth,--a feature common, also, to the Fingoes, and
of which both are not a little proud. A fine young Fingoe was pointed
out to us among the Levies, who, having had a front tooth accidentally
knocked out, got it replaced by an artificial one, for which he
willingly paid five-and-twenty shillings.
The resemblance between these two races is such as to make it
difficult, except to those who have lived long among them, to tell
one from the other. In complexion they are identical, speak the
same language; both alike are tall and well made: their women, well
proportioned and exceedingly graceful in carriage; to which may be
added the similarity of national dress--viz., a kaross of the skins
of wild beasts, a bull's hide, or a loose blanket, with earrings and
necklaces of tiger's teeth, shells, or seeds; while anklets and armlets
of black and white beads, tastefully worked, are worn by the women,
with smooth, brightly polished brass rings reaching from the wrist to
the elbow, gradually increasing in size.
The Hottentots differ in every respect from both, being very short and
slightly made, lean, and with ugly yellow monkey-looking faces, very
prominent cheek bones, small turned-up snub noses, and little twinkling
cunning eyes, and invariably wearing European garments, though in
modesty the naked Fingoe and Kaffir immeasurably surpass them.
Just as the regiment was assembling for service in the centre of the
camp, on Sunday morning, we were startled by hideous yelling and cries
from the Fingoe camp, whereby the service was delayed for some time.
For seeing the Commandant of the garrison galloping over, followed by
other officers, one and all bolted after them to see what was going on,
and found the Fingoes fighting about the division of rations. There
were several hundreds of them struggling like demons, in clouds of
dust, yelling out their war-cry, and challenging each other. All were
perfectly naked, the blood running down the black faces and breasts of
many from the blows of "knobkerries," or clubs, which they applied to
each other's heads with such astounding force that the very report was
enough to give one a headache. Not satisfied with this, some seizing
their assegais, rushed furiously into the crowd, yelling savagely,
and stabbing right and left. It was with the greatest difficulty, on
the part of the Commandant and the officers of the Levies, backed by
the efforts of the native sergeants, that the Fingoes were at length
quieted, and dispersed. Most of them were more or less marked with
the fray, and several had received severe assegai wounds, to which,
however, they appeared perfectly indifferent, for, twisting up a tuft
of dry grass into a small plug, and stuffing it into the gash, they
lighted their wooden pipes, and smoked away as if nothing particular
had happened.
General Somerset arrived, and we received orders to prepare for the
march on the morrow, on our way to the famed Amatolas, the Gibraltar
of the Gaikas, and head-quarters of Sandilli, who was said to be
strongly posted in their almost impregnable fastnesses. Commissariat
and baggage-waggons kept pouring into camp all day long; arms were
cleaned and examined; saddle-bags and pack-saddles, patrol-tents
and cooking utensils overhauled and fitted; and all was bustle and
preparation. The patrol-tent, by the way, is a canvas affair, about six
feet long and three feet high, not much unlike a dog kennel, into which
the owner creeps on hands and knees, and is supported by a couple of
poles of about four feet high, steadied by guys and pegs, and folds up
into a small enough compass to be carried under the arm, though it is
generally stowed away on the pack-saddle.
[Illustration: HOTTENTOT WAGGON-DRIVER.]
FOOTNOTES:
[1] Foreleaders.
[2] Asterocarpus typicus.
[3] Schotia speciosa.
[4] Calla Ethiopica.
[5] Lamproternis nitens.
[6] Ant-eaters. Echidna.
[7] Hyrax.