CHAPTER X

Gothic Art in Normandy[314]

The cathedral was perfected slowly and passionately. The Romans

brought to it their force, their logic, their serenity. The

Barbarians brought to it their naïve grace, their love of life,

their dreamful imaginations. From this unpremeditated collaboration

sprang a work modelled by times and places. It is the French genius

and its image. It did not progress by fits and starts; it was not

the servant of pride. It mounted in the course of centuries to

complete expression. And that expression, one throughout the

country, varies with each province, with each fraction of a

province, just enough to make interesting the chain that joins all

the pearls of this monumental necklace of France.

--RODIN, _Les cathédrales de France_.[315]

Virtually the land conquered by the vikings received its civilization

from monasteries. Like Burgundy, Normandy was a very Egypt, a Thebaid,

for the number of its religious houses. Each baron sought to have one on

his domain. In the capital of the duchy was St. Ouen, whose abbot owned

half the city; on the same Seine lay Jumièges, a center of letters and

arts, and farther down the river was St. Wandrille, "nursery for

saints"--three noted houses that inherited directly the apostolate of

Celtic Columbanus. From St. Wandrille went monks to establish Fécamp,

favorite of the Norman dukes, with an early-Gothic church equal to a

cathedral. Other monks from Fontenelle reorganized the most romantic

pile of monastic buildings in the world, Mont-Saint-Michel, guarded by

the patron of the kingdom of France, _Sanctus Michael in periculo

maris_.

When that man of genius, William of Volpiano, abbot of St. Bénigne, at

Dijon, came to Normandy to reform its houses, he himself rebuilt the

abbatial church at Bernay which architecturally is an ancestress for

such Romanesque work as Cerisy-la-Forêt, Lessay, the Caen abbatials, and

St. Georges de Boscherville. At Mortain, at St. Sauveur-le-Vicomte, at

St. Évroult, were monastery churches, and the picturesque ruins of

Hambye cause one to mourn that Primary Gothic abbatial wrecked by the

Revolution. St. Pierre-sur-Dives and the collegiate at Eu are later

monastic works of the province. For its influence as a world power--what

we may call the Cluny of Normandy--was Bec abbey that became, under

Lanfranc the Lombard, and St. Anselm the Piedmontese, the intellectual

leader of the West. Its mammoth church has gone the way of

Cluny's--scarcely stone left on stone.

BEC ABBEY[316]

O beata solitudo!

O sola beatitudo!

--(Inscription on a Benedictine monastery in France.)

In Bec, theology for the first time spoke the language of philosophy.

Herlouin, an unlettered knight, who learned to write only at forty,

founded, in 1034, an abbey on his lands on the banks of a beck in the

valley of Brionne. With the monks who gathered round him, he was engaged

in building with his own hands his convent when, one day in 1042,

Lanfranc of Pavia arrived in their midst, the learned one needed by

those simple, good men. Lanfranc had been teaching at Avranches, and was

journeying to Rouen when brigands seized him in a forest near Bec,

stripped and tied him to a tree to perish. Before aid came to him, as he

faced death during long hours--learning that despite his scholarship he

was incapable of reciting one single psalm to support his soul--a new

comprehension of life dawned on him, and he vowed himself to the triumph

of religion.

The school which he opened in Bec abbey soon drew students from all

parts of Europe. From northern Italy came young Anselm, destined twice

to succeed his master, in Bec as prior, in Canterbury as archbishop.

Lanfranc, practiced in the affairs of the world, a born statesman, was

better fitted to be primate of England than was Anselm with his

childlike, tender nature, and his subtle, speculative brain. Bec gave

still a third archbishop to the see of Canterbury, Theobald, the patron

of St. Thomas Becket; Martin, whilom abbot of Bec, built Peterborough

Cathedral.

For thirty-three years St. Anselm wrote and taught in Bec abbey, student

first, then monk, then prior, and in 1078 abbot. There at night, while

all the house slept, he wrote the books which have won for him the title

of founder of the Christian philosophy of the Middle Ages. A forerunner

of scholasticism, he was among the first to set forth the conformity of

Christian doctrine with human reason. Dante places him in Paradise among

the great contemplatives. The union of the mystic and the rational in

theology, in the Norman abbey ruled by Anselm, started impulses which

were to pass down through the centuries. An immediate result was the

quickening of the mental life of the XII century. Among St. Anselm's

pupils at Bec was Anselm de Laon, whose classes, with those of Guillaume

de Champeaux, are regarded as the nucleus of the University of Paris.

What is of interest to us here is that, from the hour of the opening of

men's minds to scholastic learning, rose the architecture of France,

that the giant energy which built cathedrals had its source in a faith

that _believed in order that it might understand_, which is St. Anselm's

own proposition, _Credo ut intelligam_, as well as it is the apogee

flight reached by Plato, what the Greek philosopher called _the wings of

the soul_. And Plato's peer, XIII-century Aquinas, voiced the Greek's

vision, and repeated Anselm's thought, in a hymn whose subtle stanzas

are sung daily over Christendom: "_Præstat fides supplementum sensuum

defectui_" ("Faith for all defects supplying where the feeble senses

fail"). Anselm, with his "face of an angel," naïvely enthusiastic over

his metaphysical proof of God, writing alone in Bec, in the silence of

the night, was digging unaware the foundations for Chartres, Rheims,

Amiens, and those other visions of the Beyond to which man gave tangible

shape in the scholastic-trained centuries because, _believing_, he

_understood_.

Sorely against his will St. Anselm left the peace of Bec to take up the

duties of England's primacy in an hour when the eternal

lay-ecclesiastical controversy was embittered. The wanton and despotic

William Rufus was the opponent who overwhelmed him. His sole friends

were the little people for whom, at that time, any churchman who

maintained independence against layman tyranny was a champion of civic

liberties. The scholar of Bec was the only prelate of the many crossing

from Normandy to England who displayed loving kindness for the

downtrodden Saxons. Homesick in England, St. Anselm used pathetically to

sign his letters to his intimates, "Brother Anselm by the heart,

Archbishop of Canterbury by coercion."

At Le Bec-Hellouin to-day little remains of the abbatial whose choir

once soared on twenty immense piers. Again and again the church was

reconstructed. In 1077 Archbishop Lanfranc crossed the Channel for a

dedication. Early in the XIII century the master-of-works at Rouen,

Enguerrand, proceeded to Bec to superintend a new Gothic edifice. A fire

in 1263 caused another renewal of the choir. In the Rayonnant day the

nave was rebuilt on the same lines as St. Ouen's abbatial. The religious

wars of the XVI century damaged the church, whose demolition was

continued as late as 1814. What now remains are a portion of the

transept, a chapter house of the XII century, and the isolated tower of

St. Nicholas (1467-80), another memorial of Normandy's rejoicing to be

free of foreign rule. Eight large statues adorn its upper walls.

Bec had been pillaged by Henry V's troops before Jeanne d'Arc's advent,

and the abbot then appointed by the invaders was one of the sixty

university professors and ecclesiastics who condemned the Maid to death

in Rouen, 1431. Ten abbots of Normandy thus tarnished their great names,

but it is well to bear in mind that in each case the delinquent

monastery had recently been sacked because of its patriotic stand

against the foreigners, and that it was governed by a tool of the

victors. Fifty Norman abbeys honored themselves by their absence from

the torture of a young girl who had all England against her, half of

France, as well as the perverted learning of Paris University.

NORMANDY'S ROMANESQUE SCHOOL[317]

The Christian world made no mistake when, in calm confidence, it

sought, under the wing of the Benedictine abbeys, that strong

education of the Western races which made possible all the marvels

of faith, courage, fervor, and humility with which Europe was

illuminated from the XI to the XV century, from Gregory VII to

Jeanne d'Arc.

--CHARLES DE MONTALEMBERT, _The Monks of the West_.

Normandy's hardy personality showed at its best in her Romanesque

monastic churches. Their design is decisive and vast, their construction

solid--the Norman excelled in masoncraft--and as art they have never

been surpassed for grave impressiveness. In the Norman minsters is a

primeval energy admirably restrained, a massive grace, a something of

reasoned simplicity lost in the Gothic cathedrals of the region. One who

fell under the spell of Normandy's Romanesque architecture has told how

its repose "appeals to men and women who have lived long and are tired,

who want rest, who have done with aspiration and ambitions, whose life

has been a broken arch.... The quiet strength of these lines, the solid

support of the moderate lights, the absence of display, of effort, of

self-consciousness, satisfy them as no other art does. They come back to

it to rest after a long cycle of pilgrimage--the cradle of rest from

which their ancestors started."[318]

No church earlier than the year 1000 has survived in Normandy. The

Norseman, while still an unbaptized buccaneer, laid low every

Merovingian and Carolingian edifice. All was in ruin. "From Blois to

Senlis," says the old record, "not an acre is plowed, for none dare work

in the fields." Then, Rollo, chief of the marauders, baptized in Rouen,

settled down in the duchy granted him in fief by the harassed king of

France. In an incredibly short time the erstwhile pagans became the most

indefatigable of church builders. For Normandy, the date 911 is as

important a landmark as is 910 for Burgundy, the year of Cluny's

foundation.[319]

The Norman Romanesque school made general use of the roll molding at

window and portal, of griffes at the base of piers, blind arcading,

intercrossing wall arches (that became monotonous in the Anglo-Norman

school), and very frequently it contrived an interior passage at the

clearstory level, whose effect was heightened by the use of arches of

different designs in its outer and inner walls.

Certain archæologists contend that the predominant influences in the

development of Norman Romanesque were Lombard, and that in this it

differed from other French schools which in main part derived from local

Carolingian work. As the Norman's creative genius was not on a par with

his constructive abilities, it seems reasonable to look for foreign

influence when finding its school precociously formed by the middle of

the XI century. The Lombards used, before the Normans, the alternate

system of ground supports, cubic capitals, transverse arches, compound

piers, crypts, and raised choirs, and their most striking feature of

exterior decoration was the arched corbel table that made a continuous

cornice. Mr. Arthur Kingsley Porter says that diagonals were used in

Lombardy early in the XI century as an expedient to economize wood,

groin vaults being molded on a temporary wooden substructure, but as the

Lombard never counterbutted his intersecting ribs, such vaults proved

unsatisfactory and were given up after 1120. If the Norman had an early

knowledge of diagonals through the Lombard, like the Lombard he failed

to derive from them their constructive consequences. That fact of

creative genius no one can deny to the Ile-de-France. Even if the

controversy as to who first used Gothic ribs should be decided in favor

of the Anglo-Norman school, and behind their use of it, traced to

Lombardy's Romanesque builders, none of them saw in it what Abbot Suger

did--the radical member of a new system of building.

William of Volpiano, a Lombard, and an architect as well as a reformer,

spent many active years in Normandy, where he died in 1031. At Fécamp he

is said to have trained a group of masons. A decade after his death,

Lanfranc, born in northern Italy, became a leader in the duchy, and

under him was built the present nave of the Abbaye-aux-Hommes at Caen.

It seems very natural to suppose that such men, alert as they were to

architectural progress, should have exerted influence on the Norman

school. However, M. Lefèvre-Pontalis thinks it wiser not to exaggerate

the immediate influence from beyond the Alps. He holds that the

Romanesque school of Normandy proceeded in main part from the same

element as the other pre-Gothic schools of France, elements derived

somewhat from Barbarian sources, but chiefly from Rome's occupation of

Gaul. In the case of Normandy the Barbarian influences would be largely

Scandinavian, and there has been considerable speculation over the

Norseman's wooden structure and the Norman's partiality for the pleated

capital.

Mr. John Bilson is unsympathetic to Mr. Kingsley Porter's ideas of

Lombard influence in Normandy, and he considers the early dates ascribed

to Lombard diagonals most improbable. Why, he asks, if the solution was

reached in Lombardy about 1025, did it take three quarters of a century

for the Normans, directly in contact with the builders of Italy, to

arrive after long experimenting at the same intersecting ribs? He claims

that the Ile-de-France was indebted to Normandy for diagonals, which

were not in use in the royal domain before 1130, but that, once that

school came into possession of intersecting pointed arches and flying

buttresses, it developed from them a new system of construction,

clothing it with a new expression, which we call Gothic. The controversy

is by no means closed.

Normandy's Romanesque school spread far afield.[320] It passed into

Picardy and penetrated as far south as Chartres. It crossed the Channel

with the adventurers who descended on England, and with other free

lances who carved out distant kingdoms for themselves, its

characteristics appeared in southern Italy and Sicily.

The ornamentation of the Norman school came in part from Oriental or

Byzantine sources already in use in the Carolingian era, and in part

from Scandinavian. Unlike Burgundy, this province, despite its good

stone, never won distinction in sculpture either in the Romanesque or

the Gothic day. Never was Norman decoration equal to Norman

construction, otherwise this school would be without a peer. Its

ornamentation lacks variety and imagination. Geometric designs were

endlessly repeated. Both in England and in Normandy the traveler grows

weary of the zigzag or chevron motive, taken from Merovingian

interlacings, or Carolingian triangular outlines, and very weary, too,

of its variants, the dog-tooth or star ornament, and the fret or meander

which reproduced a classical motive. The Carolingian billet molding was

also overused. Such monotony of decoration was probably the defect of a

good quality--caution and thoroughness. The Norman seldom attempted what

he could not put through, hence his churches were usually completed,

even to having their towers crowned by stone spires. The builders of the

Ile-de-France were less cautious, but more sublime.

THE ROMANESQUE ABBEY CHURCH OF JUMIÈGES[321]

Aucun pays n'avait fourni au moyen âge plus de missionnaires

chrétiens qu'Irlande, ni d'hommes empressés de répandre chez les

nations étrangères les études de leur patrie.--A. THIERRY.

The first Romanesque church of Normandy with architectural pretensions,

the first to present the regional school fully formed, was the abbatial

of Jumièges, begun about 1040. That virile, rugged "château de Dieu"

stands on a semi-island of the Seine where the river makes a gracious

twenty-mile meander, or rather, there stand the "incredible masses of

masonry" which are the ruins of Jumièges, a wall of the big central

lantern, a roofless nave, and two gaunt façade towers, the only Norman

towers entirely of the XI century. In all France is no more austere,

stark, and grandiose a ruin.

How from such a predecessor as Bernay's abbatial the Norman could

immediately evolve an architectural feat as tremendous as Jumièges seems

explicable only by some strong exterior impetus. Here is the Lombard

alternance of ground supports over whose origin in Normandy much

printer's ink has been spilled. As the Lombard groin vault embraced two

bays, a strong pier was needed only for the transverse arch separating

the large square vault sections; or if a timber roof was used, a

reinforced pier was required only for the bigger tiebeams. Now, at

Jumièges, the lower structure proves (say certain archæologists) that

never was a masonry roof planned for, so it is probable that the open

timber roof required heavy tiebeams only at every other bay, hence an

alternance of substantial and slight piers to correspond to the

alternance of big beams and little beams. Jumièges also used the Lombard

engaged shaft. Its uniform _hautes colonnes_, without capitals, rise

from soil to roof, serving as interior buttresses, and some say as

supports for the tiebeams, since they rose too high to be intended for a

masonry roof. They bind together the three stories, and æsthetically

their rhythm breaks the monotony of the plain walls. Mr. John Bilson

thinks that the wall shafts of Jumièges can have had no other motive

than to support a vault over the principal span, and cannot have been

the supports of mere tiebeams. They may have been planned, suggests

Prof. Baldwin Brown, to carry an undergirding arch such as occurs

beneath some wooden roofs.

Normandy's invention of the sexpartite vault came about, thinks M.

Anthyme Saint-Paul, through her predilection for multiple lines. With

such Gothic vaults--each section of which embraced two bays--she

proceeded to reroof various of her Romanesque abbatials, whose already

existent alternated piers were thus made logical. Almost it would seem

as if the presence of ground supports, substantial and slight, had

called into being the new type of masonry roof. St. Denis used a

sexpartite vault in 1140, and M. Lefèvre-Pontalis suggested, at one

time, that Normandy derived the idea from the Ile-de-France. In the

royal domain, however, no steps are to be found leading up to it,

whereas in Normandy can be seen sexpartite vaults of primitive design,

such as those covering the Abbaye-aux-Dames, which consist merely of two

diagonals with a transverse rib crossing their apex. In the

Abbaye-aux-Hommes, where the timber roof of the nave was replaced by a

Gothic vault as early, perhaps, as 1135, the vault web is warped to the

intermediate transverse rib. It has been suggested that the sexpartite

vault originated from the employment of the diaphragm arch.

Jumièges abbey church was dedicated "with great spiritual joy," so an

old chronicle relates, by saintly Archbishop Maurille of Rouen, in the

presence of William the Conqueror and Matilda. Maurille had been trained

at Fécamp under the great William of Volpiano. A Gothic choir, added to

the abbatial later, was blown up after the Revolution by a contractor

who acquired the monastery in order to sell its stones as building

material. Under the flank of the now roofless nave nestles a ruined

little church of the XIV century, St. Peter its tutelary. Two of its

bays incorporate parts from a Carolingian church built by Rollo's son,

William Longsword (928-943). They are of archæological interest in being

the oldest examples extant of twin arches beneath a common arch for the

tribune-opening on the middle vessel. The arrangement became popular in

the Romanesque churches of Normandy and England, and can be seen at

Mont-Saint-Michel, Rochester, Ely, Gloucester, Peterborough, and

Winchester.

Jumièges was an ancient foundation of Clovis II and Queen Bathilde.

They granted forests on the Seine to St. Philibert (d. 684), who had

been an intimate at the Merovingian court, of St. Ouen and St.

Wandrille. To obtain the Celtic rule of Columbanus at its source,

Philibert visited Luxeuil and Bobbio, and he dedicated a chapel of his

abbatial at Jumièges to the Irish missionary. His own cult was to crop

out at Tournus and Dijon when the Norse piratical inroads drove the

inmates of wrecked monastic houses into Burgundy.

Jumièges was a scene of pillage and massacre during the last acts of the

Capet-Plantagenet duel, when Henry V, the victor of Agincourt, overran

Normandy. The abbot, then appointed, sat in judgment on St. Jeanne in

1431, and fell down dead three months later. After Charles VII had

entered Rouen as conqueror, in 1449, he retired to Jumièges. During the

feasts of rejoicing _la dame de beaulté_, Agnes Sorel, died in a manor

close by, and her memorial stone in Jumièges abbatial recorded her

"pitiful loving kindness to all men and especially the poor and

children." Days of decline came for Jumièges under her commendatory

abbots. A XVII-century revival of learning was led by the reformers of

the Congregation of St. Maur, but the famous establishment went under

completely during the Revolution. The sequence is the same for most

French abbeys.

Farther down the Seine, at what once was Fontenelle, stand the less

imposing ruins of St. Wandrille's abbatial, consisting of a transept of

the XIII century and a Flamboyant Gothic cloister, whose _lave-mains_ is

a gem of Renaissance delicacy. The house was founded in 649 by St.

Wandrille, of Merovingian blood. Like his friend, Philibert of Jumièges,

he sought the rule of St. Columbanus at its fountainhead, though the

more equable rule of St. Benedict was to prevail in French religious

establishments before the VII century closed. St. Wandrille trained many

of the saints who planted monasteries over northern France, and in later

centuries the Duke of Normandy chose monks from St. Wandrille's abbey to

institute a Benedictine house of prayer on the rock of St.

Michael-in-peril-of-the-sea.

THE ROMANESQUE ABBATIALS AT CAEN[322]

Clochers légers, clochers aigus,

Clochers de France,

Par quel attrait d'élan pieux

Emportez-vous si vite et si haut dans les cieux

Nos regards et notre espérance?...

Longs et pareils à ces lances pointus

Que les géants piquaient au sol,

Vous montiez d'un seul jet pour défier le vol

Des hirondelles éperdues.

--GEORGES LAFENESTRE, "Clochers de France."[323]

Caen played a prominent part in the builder's story of Normandy. It has

been called the Romanesque Mecca. Its church of St. Nicolas (c.

1180-93), one of the most interesting Romanesque edifices of the duchy,

is dismantled, but the Abbaye-aux-Hommes or St. Étienne, and the

Abbaye-aux-Dames, or Ste. Trinité, are in good repair. All the world

knows how William the Conqueror and his good and gentle Matilda of

Flanders each founded an abbey in Caen, "that God might be served by

both sexes and thus pardon their transgression." Their marriage

disobeyed Church regulations concerning consanguinity and a canonical

atonement was required. Matilda's tomb rests in the middle of the choir

she built. Her epitaph was inscribed in letters of gold: "Consoler of

the needy, lover of piety, a woman who, having lavished her treasures in

good works, was poor to herself, but rich to the unfortunate. Thus

she sought the fellowship of eternal life on the second of November,

1083."

[Illustration: _The Crypt of the Abbaye-aux-Dames at Caen (1059-1066)_]

The Abbaye-aux-Dames, begun about 1059, was dedicated in 1066 by the

same Archbishop Maurille who blessed the new church at Jumièges. A few

weeks after the ceremony, William descended on England, which his

knights and villeins conquered to the chant of the _Chanson de Roland_,

written by some unknown poet who, like themselves, looked to the

Archangel of the Peril for inspiration. Yet a few decades more and

Roland's war song was sung by the first crusaders before Jerusalem.

Architecture, crusades, language, literature--many were the vital

movements then coming to birth.

On the day of the blessing of Matilda's convent of the Holy Trinity, her

little daughter, Cécile, was laid on the altar and dedicated to God's

service. For almost fifty years her aunt, Matilda, daughter of Richard

II and the fair Judith of Brittany, ruled the Abbaye-aux-Dames, and then

Cécile succeeded as second abbess; _Dame de la ville de Caen_, her

brother Henry I of England called her. Cécile was one of the learned

ladies of her day, having studied philosophy and belles-lettres under

the patriarch of Jerusalem. One recalls that it was a contemporary

abbess--at St. Odile in Alsace--who made the first attempt to compile an

encyclopedia. Several English princesses were nuns of the Trinité, among

them the daughters of Henry III and Edward I. In a later century

Charlotte Corday was a pupil of the convent.

It has been thought that Gundulf, a monk of Bec, called to Caen by

Lanfranc, was architect of the Abbaye-aux-Dames, where his mother had

retired as a nun. This learned and pious man had entered Bec in the same

year as St. Anselm, and when he had become the bishop of Rochester he

remained faithful to Anselm, then the primate of England, facing bitter

troubles with the king. The saint came to attend the good bishop on his

deathbed. Gundulf rebuilt Rochester Cathedral, whose crypt and western

bays are of his time (1076-1108); Rochester Tower, too, he raised, and

the chapel of St. John in London Tower. It was said of him that he was

the most skilled of all men in masoncraft.

The apse of the Trinité is considered one of the best things in Caen. It

stands over a crypt whose sixteen piers are in four rows. When the choir

was renovated, after 1100, some of its sculptures were modeled on

certain Byzantine ivories that had been brought as gifts to Abbess

Cécile by her crusading brother. The abbatial's triforium is a blind

arcade behind whose wall was essayed some very primitive flying

buttresses. The present sexpartite vault was an early trial of that

Norman form of the Gothic masonry roof, and is really a quadripartite

vault divided by a transverse rib, the web being unwarped to that

intermediate member. Though the XII century replaced the original timber

roof of the Trinité by this sexpartite one, exactly when it was done is

not known. But those interested in claiming priority for Normandy in the

use of diagonal ribs place it before the sexpartite vaulting of St.

Denis. The XIII century added a handsome Gothic chapel to the transept

of Matilda's convent church.

As the expiatory abbatial erected by the Conqueror was on a far larger

scale than the Abbaye-aux-Dames, it took longer to build; perhaps the

same Gundulf of Bec and Rochester was its architect. Over the aisles are

deep tribunes, some of whose bays have retained their primitive vaults

of the same type as those at Tournus in Burgundy--half barrels placed

side by side on lintels at right angles to the axis of the church. The

original roof of the principal span was replaced by the actual

sexpartite vault (whose web is warped to the six branches) about 1130,

said M. Régnier; other archæologists have placed it a generation later.

By the addition of a sexpartite vaulting the much-discussed Lombard

alternate piers were no longer inconsequent. The height to which the

wall shafts of the nave are carried indicates that the cowled architect

had not purposed originally to cover his main span with a stone roof.

When the Gothic vaulting was added the clearstory was changed in the

interior of the church, but the exterior was left as first built.

William and Matilda made Caen their chief residence in Normandy, and

Lanfranc was brought from Bec in 1063 to be prior of the duke's new

monastery. He opened a school in Caen to which his pupil, Pope Alexander

II, sent his relatives as scholars. In the peaceful cloister of St.

Étienne the able Italian composed a treatise--to counteract Berengar's

heresy on the Eucharist--which is considered a small masterpiece of

Christian controversy. Lanfranc was dialectician, administrator,

builder, subtle lawyer, and statesman. His genius reached its highest

development in the organization of a Norman hierarchy for England. He

rebuilt his own church at Canterbury, and two former monks of St.

Étienne, Caen, rebuilt the cathedral of Winchester and St. Alban's

abbey. Other memorials of Lanfranc's primacy in England are the crypt

and eastern end of Gloucester Cathedral, the work of a monk of

Mont-Saint-Michel, the crypt at Worcester, choir chapels and ambulatory

at Norwich, and the western transept of Ely Cathedral, erected by a monk

from St. Ouen, Rouen. It is said that during the century and a half from

the Conqueror to John Lackland the Norman prelates in England erected

over four hundred churches as expiatory offerings for the grievous wrong

perpetrated in the Norman conquest.

In Caen, Lanfranc built the nave of the Abbaye-aux-Hommes, a monument of

magnificent proportions, compact, tranquil, and sincere. When archbishop

of Canterbury he returned to Caen in 1077 for the dedication of his

abbey church. Another ten years and in St. Étienne's choir took place

the sinister burial of William the Conqueror. In the town was raging a

fierce conflagration which was to wipe out half the place. As they

lowered into the tomb the proud and wrathful overman whose strength had

been so pitiless, whose will so inflexible, a poor townsman stepped

forth to forbid the burial, claiming he had been robbed of that special

parcel of land. In the disorders that ensued the corpulent body of the

dead king was injured, and though incense was burned to purify the

infected air, the people deserted the church in horror. _Sic pulvis es._

In 1210 the Romanesque choir of the Abbaye-aux-Hommes was replaced by

the present Gothic one. Normandy apparently used annulets about the

clustered shafts at a much later date than the Ile-de-France, and it

continued to employ its pre-Gothic zigzag decoration. The chapels round

the choir were made to open one on the other above low dividing walls;

Bayeux and Coutances repeated this, as they did the turrets at the birth

of the apse. The exterior aspect of the edifice was enhanced by a row of

small rose windows each of which lighted a bay of the choir's tribune. A

generation later the same arrangement was employed in the collegiate

church at Mantes.

The new Gothic choir of St. Étienne at Caen was joined with skill to

Lanfranc's grave Romanesque nave. Maître Guillaume is cited as architect

of the new works, and he probably crowned the two western towers that so

grandly dominate the city. Few architectural views in France surpass the

stark majesty of the fortresslike church built by the Conqueror, as it

appears from across the town, from the rue des Chanoines, when one

stands near the convent church of Queen Matilda. St. Étienne's towers

were the prototypes for the other notable ones at Caen.

During the XVI-century religious wars the Abbaye-aux-Hommes was twice

pillaged and the Calvinists scattered the Conqueror's ashes. They

stripped the roofing of its lead, which soon caused the collapse of the

central lantern and the choir vaults. During two generations the great

church lay unused save as a stone quarry. Then the prior, Jean de

Baillehache, in 1609, undertook a restoration, carried through so

judiciously that were it not for the monastery's official record, and a

slight poverty in the sculpture, it would be impossible to detect the

new parts from the old.

For the making of towers Caen is a queen city. In descending the rue des

Chanoines one passes the church of St. Pierre, whose much-admired

Renaissance apse (1518-45) was the work of a regional master, Hector

Sohier. But it is the tower of St. Pierre which is its glory and the

boast of Normandy. It served as model for belfries throughout the duchy

and in Brittany. Built from 1308 to 1317, it stands as proof that the

tradition of Apogee Gothic continued till the opening of the Hundred

Years' War. Apart from the natural rise and fall of things human various

causes contributed to the decline of Gothic art after the XIII century.

A soulless mechanical dexterity that crystallized the principles of

Gothic architecture succeeded to the creative genius that had made

glorious the reigns of Philippe-Auguste and Louis IX. Symbolism and true

mysticism gave place to doubt, and--when internal dissensions and

foreign invasion rent the land--to superstition. With the blurring of

spiritual vision passed the vigor of construction.

The XIV century in France opened under a king who debased the coinage,

overtaxed the clergy, persecuted the Jews, and who, by the outrage of

Anagni, struck a fatal blow at the prestige of the papacy. Soon followed

the Black Death, when a third of Europe's population perished. Radical

deterioration of the national art set in after France "went to pieces at

the Battle of Crécy" (1346). The royal domain was a field of brigandage:

"From the Loire to the Seine, and from the Seine to the Somme, the

peasants being killed, all the fields lay uncultivated, and this during

many years," wrote Bishop Bérenger of Le Mans. In Paris Cathedral a

foreigner was crowned king of France.

What horrors reigned in Normandy, many an old record relates. More than

a thousand patriot leaders perished when English gold was given for each

decapitated corpse. "Houses are without occupants, fields without

workers," wrote a XV-century bishop of Lisieux. Bedford's troops

pillaged and massacred. Near Falaise twelve thousand civilians were

butchered in one day. "The land of Normandy was grievously oppressed and

_le pauvre peuple détruit_," wrote Monstrelet. "Men and women fled for

their lives, by land and by sea, as if in peril of fire. Nobles gave up

their fiefs, clerks their benefices, burghers their patrimony, rather

than take oath to the invader."[324] _Normannia nutrix_ lay almost

uninhabited.

Such is the French version. Naturally the English outlook was different.

"The false Frenchman," sings Drayton in his Agincourt ballad. Freeman

falls into a vein of self-congratulation. "Go from France proper into

Normandy," he writes, "and you at once feel that everything is palpably

better; men, women, horses, cows, all are on a grander, better scale.

The good seed planted by the old Saxon and Danish colonists, and watered

in aftertimes by Henry V and John, Duke of Bedford, is still there. It

is not altogether choked by the tares of Paris."

Gothic art deteriorated, but so persistently lingered the simplicity,

the spiritual poignancy of the XIII century that in the late-Gothic day

it was still possible to produce the mystic loveliness of Riom's Madonna

of the Bird, and the humble prayerfulness of Solesmes' Magdalene.

In the unspoiled years of the XIV century was built the tower of St.

Pierre, at Caen. Its shaft rises in a virile, unbroken ascent from soil

to spire tip. On the busiest street corner of the city it stands like a

perpetual call to recollection and joy. The Norman will boast with

legitimate pride that it is the most beautiful tower in France,

excelling those of Chartres and Senlis, whose shafts, he will tell you,

are either too high or too short, whereas his loved tower of St. Pierre

has spire and shaft in perfect accord. When Caen added this stately

monument to its wealth of churches it was as rich a metropolis as

Rouen, and it had contributed more than London toward the ransom of

Richard Coeur-de-Lion from Teuton captivity. Just before the defeat of

Crécy, this, the intellectual capital of Normandy, was besieged by

English troops, and all its wealth pillaged, and its streets strewn with

dead. Amid havoc wrought, the towers of the Abbaye-aux-Dames were

destroyed.

[Illustration: _Belfry of St. Pierre at Caen (1308-1317). Prototype for

the Gothic Towers of Normandy and Brittany_]

All over the department of Calvados are towers.[325] A Romanesque one

crowns the church of Vaucelles, a suburb of Caen. At Ifs, and near

Bayeux, at St. Loup (c. 1180), are others. The monk's church of Norrey,

a dependency of St. Ouen, at Rouen, noted for the lavishness of its

foliate ornamentation, has a tower of the XIII century, and near it,

also ten miles from Caen, is Secqueville's Gothic beacon. There are

belfries at Bernières-sur-mer (c. 1150), at Langrune, Thaon, Tour, and

Basly.

Three of the most beautiful towers in Calvados crown the abbatial of St.

Pierre-sur-Dives, an edifice, too much a patchwork of five centuries to

be altogether pleasing, but linked with a memorable hour of the Gothic

story, 1145. Popular enthusiasm then aided Abbot Haimon to reconstruct

his church, as he wrote, in a much-quoted letter to the English monks at

Tutbury. The same wave of fervor was raising the Primary Gothic towers

of Chartres and Rouen. The western towers of St. Pierre-sur-Dives are of

Haimon's day only in their lower stories; that to the south has a

XIII-century top, and that to the north was finished in the XIV

century.[326]

Throughout the final phase of Gothic, Normandy continued to excel in

towers. Witness Rouen's Flamboyant beacons. In quiet country places and

lesser towns rise belfries as stately as those of cathedrals: at

Carville is the "Giant of the Valley" (1512-14), at Harfleur is a most

beautiful tower, and still another at Verneuil (1506-30), built by a son

of the town, Arthur Fillon, curé of St. Maclou, Rouen, and vicar-general

of that lover of noble structures, Cardinal Georges d'Amboise; when he

became bishop of Senlis, he helped to finish the Flamboyant Gothic

transept of that cathedral.

THE ROMANESQUE ABBATIAL OF ST. GEORGES DE BOSCHERVILLE[327]

I have borne for forty-two years with happiness the sweet yoke of

the Lord.--ORDERICUS VITALIS (xii century).

From Rouen a pleasant six-mile walk through the forest of Roumare leads

to the abbatial of St. Georges de Boscherville, an example of the best

Anglo-Norman Romanesque. Some have thought it belongs to the first

decade of the XII century, but M. Besnard places it a generation

earlier. Mr. John Bilson claims that, like its contemporary, the

cathedral at Durham, the piers show that from the start the design was

to construct ribbed groin vaults over the wide span, and he thinks that

the same is true for the now disused Romanesque abbatial of St.

Nicolas, at Caen (1083-93), building twenty years before Durham's choir.

He has cited the diagonals of Lessay's choir and those of the transept

of Montvilliers as the primitive Gothic of Normandy, vaults which M. de

Lasteyrie considered to be contemporary with Suger's St. Denis. The

German archæologists, Dehio and von Bezold, give priority to Normandy.

The actual intersecting ribs at St. Georges de Boscherville are a

XIII-century reconstruction. So solid were the church walls made that no

flying buttresses have been needed. The tribune at the end of each arm

of the transept is supported by an isolated pillar, apsidal chapels

project from the eastern wall of the transept, and the central lantern

is one of the best in Normandy. The entire church, save its west façade

flanked by slender turrets, was the work of some six or seven years

only. About 1157, under Abbot Victor, was erected the chapter house that

nestles beneath the transept's northern arm. The French students who did

not know, or who have not accepted, Mr. John Bilson's theory of

Anglo-Norman priority in the use of the essential organ of Gothic

architecture, have claimed that the diagonals of St. Georges' chapter

house are among the earliest extant of the province, of the same decade

as the vaulting of the lower hall of St. Romain's tower at Rouen. Mr.

John Bilson's championship of Anglo-Norman pioneer work, and Mr. Arthur

Kingsley Porter's theory of Lombard priority, have both found supporters

among leading French archæologists; the English scholar is patriotically

disgruntled at the American's advocacy of the Italian claims.

It would seem that during the XI century the Normans, like the Lombards,

used what Mr. Bilson calls ribbed groined vaults, occasionally, for one

reason or another. The Norman developed tentatively the ribbed vault,

always associating it with the semicircular arch, and without

comprehending the wonderful results that were to be derived from

concentrating the weight of a masonry roof at fixed points. The

possibility of those results was perceived first in the Ile-de-France,

and from there, when Gothic architecture had taken on its special

characteristics, it entered Normandy by way of the Seine at Rouen and

Boscherville, then at Fécamp and Lisieux. The first Gothic cathedrals of

Normandy show purely French influence and only gradually were regional

ogival traits developed. In the controversy as to who first used

diagonals, one can take whichever side one prefers; the question remains

open. Light will be thrown on it, doubtless, by a forthcoming paper by

Mr. Bilson in the _Archeological Journal_, tracing the evolution of the

diagonal rib in Normandy.

The abbey at Boscherville was founded by the lord of Tankerville, high

chamberlain of the Conqueror and Henry I. In its abbatial, when his

grandson, hereditary constable of Normandy, was knighted, he laid his

sword on the altar, and to redeem it presented property to the

monastery. If we would comprehend the society that built these churches,

we must understand that such donations were voluntary and a matter of

civic pride. "If I cannot myself attend to the works of God," runs an

ancient deed of gift, "at least I can assure a home for those with whom

God loves to dwell. It is only natural to enrich our Holy Mother the

Church, and thus to take a hand in caring for Christ's poor."

THE GOTHIC ABBATIAL AT FÉCAMP[328]

It is a usage bequeathed to us from our ancestors, never to let

anyone depart from our abbey without a gift.

--(From an old Latin chronicle of Fécamp.)

If one would enjoy, without critical comparison, the Gothic of Normandy,

her churches should be visited before the taste has become sensitized by

loiterings in the Ile-de-France. In that classic region of the national

art is found a simplicity, a purity, a restraint, a something of

imaginative genius that makes of its work the touchstone by which all

other manifestations of Gothic are judged. Of the Norman churches, the

Trinité, at Fécamp, is most closely related to the Primary Gothic work

of the royal domain. Its architect must certainly have come from the

Ile-de-France. Monks trained in the Celtic rule by St. Wandrille founded

Fécamp, which was wrecked by Norse pirates in 876. William Longsword,

the first duke's son, built his palace here, and his son, Richard I the

Fearless (d. 996), began a new monastery. In his will Richard ordered:

"Bury not my body within the church, but deposit it on the outside,

immediately under the eaves, that the dripping of the rain from the holy

roof may wash my bones as I lie and may cleanse them of the spots of

impurity contracted during a negligent and neglected life." He desired

that on every Friday a sarcophagus be filled with wheat and grain for

the poor. His son, Richard II the Good (d. 1020), finished Fécamp

abbatial, and was laid to rest beside his father. The dukes of Rollo's

line especially favored Fécamp, which held a front rank among Normandy's

institutions, and was the richest of her monasteries down to the

Revolution. Henry Plantagenet presented Fécamp town to the monastery.

After Duke Richard the Good had brought that man of administrative

genius, William of Volpiano, into his duchy to reorganize its spiritual

life, architectural activities took on new vigor. William himself

directed the construction of Bernay's[329] church; the abbatial of

Mont-Saint-Michel rose when he reformed that house; and the church of

Jumièges followed immediately after his reformation there. The Blessed

William, in his thirst for souls, used to loiter at the crossroads to

gather in the stricken of body or spirit. He passed away in Fécamp in

1031, and his ashes are still preserved in a chapel of the present

Gothic abbatial. In 1034, in the Romanesque Trinité, Robert the

Magnificent gathered the chief men of Normandy to have them swear

allegiance to his sturdy little bastard son of seven, who was to be

known in history as William the Conqueror, after which Duke Robert

started on his pilgrimage to the East, from which he was never to

return. The abbey church of Fécamp long consisted of the nave begun by

Richard I, and a choir built by Abbot Guillaume de Ros (1082-1108),

under whose rule the Trinité won the admiration of Europe. He is said to

have introduced into Normandy the ambulatory and its radiating chapels.

Two of the radial chapels which he constructed at Fécamp have survived.

While they were building, there lived in the Trinité convent, as prior,

Herbert de Lozinga, who, obtaining the bishopric of Norwich, erected on

the Norfolk downs a stately Norman cathedral (1096-1119). Abbot

Guillaume de Ros carried out the instructions of Richard I to give a

loaf of bread to every beggar asking it, and when Fécamp was dissolved

at the Revolution its abbot was distributing daily some twelve thousand

free loaves of bread.

In 1169 fire wrecked the Romanesque Trinité, whereupon the present

Gothic edifice was begun immediately, and in it two of the groin-vaulted

chapels from the choir of Guillaume de Ros were incorporated. Abbot

Henri de Soullay (1139-87) built the Primary Gothic choir, transept,

and half of the nave. After the fifth bay of the nave a new architect

took up the work, as is shown by differences in the pier profiles, but

the cessation of activities must have been of short duration, as the

church is homogeneous. The nave was finished under Abbot Raoul d'Argence

(1190-1220), who organized Normandy's first literary academy--a

confraternity of jongleurs. Its character was more Norman than the

choir, though regional traits had early appeared in the turrets at the

birth of the apse and the square central lantern.

To increase the impression of length in the nave its side walls were

marked by double the number of arcades that divide the middle church

from the aisles. This was accomplished by introducing a fifth rib into

each vault section of those side corridors, which rib fell on a shaft

engaged in the side walls. Like the minsters of England, Fécamp is more

remarkable in its length than in its height.

Abbot Thomas de Saint-Benoît (1297-1307) decided to suppress the deep

gallery over the choir's ambulatory, making the chapels that open on the

curving aisle of exceptional height. He changed the southern aisle,

giving it a coldly elegant Rayonnant aspect, but happily not that to the

north, or we would have lost the two interesting Romanesque chapels of

Abbot Guillaume de Ros. Some of Fécamp's later abbots were Clement VI,

builder of the palace of the popes at Avignon and of the Chaise Dieu in

the mountains of Auvergne, and an abbot of the patriotic Estouteville

family, who was driven out by the English when Fécamp was besieged in

1415. The tool who succeeded him sat in judgment on Jeanne d'Arc.

The abbot of Fécamp during the transitional Flamboyant Renaissance day

was Cardinal Antoine Boyer (1492-1519), a Mæcenas who adorned his

beautiful church with Italian marbles. He had sculptured, in the same

studio at Genoa that provided Louis XII with the Orléans tombs for St.

Denis, an Entombment more spectacular in character than the famous one

at Solesmes. Girolamo Viscardo made for him a tabernacle (for the

choir's procession path), after the style of Mino da Fiesole. The

lovely marble screens that close the side chapels are due to this

generous prelate. For him Jacques Le Roux, the noted architect of Rouen,

lengthened the Lady chapel. The only later change of importance in the

Trinité was the erection of its neo-classic façade.

THE GOTHIC ABBATIAL AT EU[330]

La Nature a bien des manières de sourire. La Normandie est le plus

beau sourire de la nature temperée.--O. RECLUS.

The tutelary of Eu is St. Laurence O'Toole, archbishop of Dublin, son of

a prince in Leinster, an active continuer of the reforms begun by St.

Malachy of Armagh, who died in St. Bernard's arms at Clairvaux. St.

Laurence had crossed the Channel to plead with Henry Plantagenet for

certain of his flock in disgrace (1180). Arriving at Eu's convent, then

belonging to the congregation of St. Victor, he felt a premonition of

his approaching death, and exclaimed, as he crossed the threshold, "Here

is my abode of rest forever." He was worn out in the struggle to uphold

the weak against the strong in those difficult years of the Anglo-Norman

seizure of the eastern coast of Ireland. As his end drew near a monk

suggested that he make his testament. "I thank God that I have nothing

to bequeath," he said.

So impressive was the death of Archbishop Laurence in Eu monastery that

the little people of the Lord soon began to pray beside his tomb. When

the monks reconstructed their church they placed the saintly man's

relics in the new crypt. From 1186 to 1226 the choir, transept, and one

bay of the nave were built without interruption, in a Gothic more of the

Ile-de-France than regional, though the placing of towers between

transept and choir and the central lantern followed the Norman

tradition.

Archbishop Laurence O'Toole was canonized in 1225, and to the joyous

ceremony when his relics were set above the high altar came the

archbishop of Rouen--then building his cathedral, and Bishop Geoffrey,

the "shining man of Eu by whom the throne of Amiens rose into

immensity." For eight days the throng pressed to pray near the relics of

the canonized Irish prelate, and with the gifts that poured in the monks

were able to finish their nave by 1230. It is a gem of Norman Gothic,

sober, elegant, of perfect unity. The first plan called for tribunes

over the aisles, as in the choir. Before they were constructed, however,

the idea was given up, but it was decided to keep the arches by which

the tribunes would have opened on the middle church. The same effect of

false tribunes had been used earlier in the nave of Rouen Cathedral.

In 1426 lightning caused the collapse of the central tower, and in the

reconstruction of the transept and choir, undertaken after the invaders

were driven from Normandy, Flamboyant work was set side by side with

Primary Gothic. From 1511 to 1534 rose the transept's florid south

façade. After the Revolution the church of St. Laurent was restored by

the Orléans family, who own the château and park at Eu.

MONT-SAINT-MICHEL[331]

Chaque peuple a son ange, disait Daniel le prophète. Le nôtre ne

peut pas, même indignes nous délaisser.... Plus encore que Saint

Jacques était le patron des espagnols, Saint Michel voulut être le

Baron de France. Il mit les trois lys dans ses armes et fit passer

sur le royaume l'éclair de son glaive. Avoir suscité Jeanne d'Arc

et par elle libéré la France.... Voilà bien le plus beau miracle dû

à l'archange. Il constitue pour le pays une promesse de

perennité.--JOSEPH LOTTE (born in Normandy, 1875; killed in the

World War, 1914).

Surpassing all the abbeys of Normandy is the outpost of the archangel

that lies offshore, at the junction of Normandy and Brittany, a conicle

mass of "rock on rock, keep on keep, century on century," sand-locked

one hour, and the next rising from the Atlantic. _Tremor immensi oceani_

is the motto of the Mount. Before the days of crusaders it was one of

Europe's chief points of departure for the Eastern pilgrimage. Like

Jerusalem, it has been one of the sites of the earth that has impressed

itself with historic signification on the imagination of mankind.

Many have felt the kindred spirit of the _Chanson de Roland_ and the

granite, military monastery. They are both of the same high lineage. To

the paladin Roland, dying at Roncevaux, as he held up his right glove to

God, his suzerain, there came, to fetch his soul to Paradise, the very

special St. Michael of the Mount that stood in peril of the sea, in

_periculo maris_.[332] Scholars think that the most virile, the most

heroic of the _chansons de geste_, wherein already was _la douce France_

loved beyond the regional cradle, was composed by a Norman who lived in

the marches within the cult of the Angel of the Peril.[333]

[Illustration: _The Hall of the Knights at Mont-Saint-Michel

(1203-1228). Second Story of the Merveille_]

Alas, in our day Mont-Saint-Michel-au-péril-de-la-Mer is in very deadly

peril of the land, for it looks as if the covetousness of financiers was

to defraud France of this rock of glory "_qui s'émeut et s'achève en

prière_." Dikes and dams, to reclaim coast lands, will before long cause

the historic crag to rise from green woods as it did some geological

periods ago.

Citadel, palace, cloister, church, and town, the Mount is a thing of

romance that not all the vulgarity of daily tourist crowds can tarnish.

Charlemagne himself chose its tutelary archangel for the national patron

saint, and the cowled guardians here were in truth through long

centuries what the great emperor called monks: "Knights of the Church,

of the willing vassalage and chivalry of Christ."

The Northmen destroyed the ancient shrine. Then Richard the Fearless,

grandson of the pirate Rollo, placed on the rock the sons of St.

Benedict, trained at St. Wandrille. Richard II, in 1017, came to the

Mount to ask a blessing on his union with Judith of Brittany, whose

beauty was such that the old chronicle exclaimed _corpore et moribus

usque ad miraculum elegantem_. The duke's marriage gift enabled the

monks to supplant their Carolingian church by a bigger one. The

discarded X-century chapel was discovered in 1909 by M. Paul Gout, the

Mount's latest historian. Until 1780 it had been used as Notre

Dame-sous-Terre, but during the building of the foundations for the ugly

west façade of the upper church it was walled up.

With Richard the Good's donation, Abbot Hildebert II erected his new

church on the very summit of the rock, but as there was not sufficient

level space, he built out from the hillcrest a platform of masonry to

support the nave. From William of Volpiano's school at Fécamp came

skilled journeymen. The church at Mont-Saint-Michel was begun in 1020,

and still building in 1057. Abbot Roger I, formerly chaplain to William

the Conqueror, erected the nave. William prayed at the Mount before

undertaking the conquest of England, and the abbot fitted out for him an

entire fleet.

In 1103 the northern wall of the Romanesque nave collapsed one night as

the monks were chanting matins in the choir. It was restored immediately

in the same style, and Abbot Roger II took the opportunity to

reconstruct the monks' quarters. Above the crypt called Aquilon (c.

1112) he built a cloister, which later was vaulted with diagonals, and

over that _promenoir_ was made a dormitory on the same level as the

church. During the years that followed the Mount was governed by a man

of genius, Robert de Torigni (1153-80), whose chronicle is the most

important history of France for that epoch. In the _promenoir_ he

entertained, at a banquet in 1158, his sovereign, Henry II, and Aliénor

of Aquitaine. They chose him as godfather for their daughter, who,

later, as queen of Castile, built the convent church of Las Huelgas by

Burgos. Abbot Robert was a pupil of Bec, whose higher standards of

intellectual life he brought to the Mount, where he formed a library,

built monks' quarters, and added western belfries to his abbatial,

though the façade of his day no longer exists.

As the XIII century opened, Normandy became once more a part of the

royal domain, after being three centuries under dukes of its own. When

Rollo's strong breed ended in the debased John Lackland, the northern

province gladly accepted Philippe-Auguste as ruler. How whole-heartedly,

how unreservedly French it became it was to prove by its heroic

resistance to the English invaders during the Hundred Years' War.[334]

In the frays of 1203, fire had spread from the town that hugged the

rock's edge, to the monastic buildings on the summit. Philippe-Auguste,

always wisely conciliatory toward new subjects, contributed toward the

restorations. With the gift from the king under whom most of the Gothic

cathedrals of France were begun, Abbot Jourdan (1191-1212) built the

supreme architectural work of the citadel, what is called the Merveille,

and a marvel indeed are its three stories that rise, one above the

other, hall over hall, two hundred feet in height above the sea, ridged

heavily outside by stout buttresses and graced within by pillars,

arches, and a sky-gazing cloister.

From the brain of some unknown cowled genius sprang this _mâle_ and

splendid conception, built in the very prime of Gothic. Who else but one

enamored of meditation would have set his cloister atop of his monastery

under the open sky, or have opened on that courtyard of peace a monks'

refectory, where, in a flooded stillness of light, the brethren could

sit pondering as they listened to one of their number reading from the

stone lectern the book which is the spirit of Bernard of Clairvaux

incarnate: "Give all for all; seek nothing; call for nothing back. Thou

shalt be free in heart and the darkness shall not overwhelm thee." And

around them there spread the wide horizon of the sea one hour, of the

white ashes of sand the next.

Pacing the lovely skyward cloister one has time to brood on life and

death, on God and one's own soul; it refutes a hundred calumnies

against monastic life just by being what it is. Serious men enamored of

voluntary seclusion carved it unstintingly and set its columns quaintly

in triangular order. Love and science contrived the diffused, soothing

luminousness of the brothers' dining hall. The present gable windows

there are innovations. Originally when one entered one could discern no

window, and yet light was everywhere. The side walls, that from the door

appear to be blind arcades, are in reality a succession of narrow panel

windows--thirty to a side--deeply recessed in stone embrasures that are

triangular in shape, because they serve the purpose of buttresses. To

have carried the exterior buttress ridges to such a height as is this

refectory, set audaciously up in the sky on the Merveille's third story,

would have been an awkward procedure; so the nameless monk-architect,

because he was a XIII-century man, let his genius lead him, and, "master

of the living stone" that he was, contrived a supreme beauty of

decoration out of a structural necessity.

The Merveille was erected under a succession of abbots, in one

consecutive radiant effort, from 1203 to 1228--a Titan's work. Each of

its three stories is divided into two halls; on the ground floor are the

almonry, where the pilgrims fed, and a groin-vaulted cellery or

storehouse; the top story, as we have seen, consists of open cloister

and monks' refectory; and between the upper and lower stories are two of

the most vigorous halls ever built; that over the almonry called the

Salle des Hôtes because in it were entertained the guests of the

monastery, and that to the west, over the cellery, acquiring the name

Salle des Chevaliers, from the Order of the Knights of St. Michael,

whose members met here. The latter is divided by rows of stout pillars,

and served as the common room of the community, where the tireless

scholar-scribes illuminated missals and copied manuscripts.

The charter for the military Order of the Archangel, founded in 1469 by

Louis XI, welded the name of St. Michael, whom every good Frenchman knew

kept a specially friendly eye on France, with that of Jeanne the Maid,

who had quitted Domrémy-on-the-Meuse because the voice of her dear

archangel rang insistent in her ear: _Fille Dè, va! Je serai à ton ayde.

Va!_ It was St. Michael who first roused her to the sense of the great

misery there was in the kingdom of France, and in her hour of victory

after Orléans she spoke of going to the rescue of the besieged Mount in

Normandy. At her trial in Rouen she dwelt on the comfort he had given

her.[335] He appeared to her, she said, in the guise of "_un très vrai

prud'homme_"--the term loved of St. Louis, who once told Joinville that

to be _prud'homme_ meant to be knight in heart, as well as outward

bearing. "I believe the words of St. Michael who appeared to me," said

Jeanne, at her trial, "as firmly as I believe that Our Lord Jesus Christ

suffered death and passion for us. And what leads me so to believe is

the good counsel, comfort, and good doctrine St. Michael gave me."

On the completion of the Merveille, the monks continued building. They

had finished the officiality hall by the entrance gate of the monastery

before the visit of St. Louis to the Mount in 1254, when he came to

return thanks for his safety during his late crusade. The XIV century

added more defenses till the rock became the most forceful example of

mediæval military architecture. Strong walls were needed during its

siege by the English who invaded Normandy under Henry V. The Mount's

abbot, Robert Jollivet, whose name figures among the well-paid judges at

Rouen in 1431, allied himself with the victorious foreigners who had

quickly overrun the province. His monks repudiated him, led by their

prior, Jean Gonault. Defended by the gallant knight Louis

d'Estouteville, they endured the longest siege recorded in history,

1415 to 1450, when, as Jeanne had proclaimed, the invaders were "_boutés

tous hors de France_."[336]

In 1429, during the memorable siege, the Romanesque choir of

Mont-Saint-Michel's abbey church collapsed. It was impossible then to

rebuild it; they had even to sell their altar vessels to carry on the

defense. When Normandy was again a part of France the erection of a new

choir was undertaken by the abbot of the Mount, who was none other than

the distinguished Cardinal Guillaume d'Estouteville, the chief agent in

the vindication of Jeanne d'Arc's memory. His layman brother had

directed the defense of the Mount during many years. In 1450 were laid

down the crypt's nineteen mammoth piers, among the most powerful ever

planted. The upper church reached its triforium story by 1469, the year

when Louis XI came to the rock to establish his new Order of knighthood,

and about 1513 the choir was completed. Many hold it to be superior to

all other late-Gothic works in France. There are no capitals, the

moldings die away in the shafts, the triforium is glazed. It belongs to

the fleeting splendor of Flamboyant art, but without capriciousness.

There is no overexuberance, no virtuosity in this vigorous, glad

memorial of the nation's reconquered freedom:

Sainte Jeanne went harvesting in France,

And oh! what found she there?

The brave seed of her scattering

In fruitage everywhere.

And where her strong and tender heart

Was broken in the flame,

She found the very heart of France

Had flowered to her name.[337]

Building activities at the embattled abbey ceased after the erection of

its beautiful florid choir. The evil consequences of commendatory

abbots--those named by royal whim--bore bitter fruit from end to end of

France in the relaxed spiritual life of the monasteries. The

XVII-century reformers of the Congregation of St. Maur found the Mount's

abbot to be a princeling of Lorraine, five years of age. Those scholarly

Benedictines carried on excellent research work in local history, but to

their neo-classic generation Gothic art was a sealed book.

Deplorable changes went on during three hundred years: an apsidal chapel

of the church was made into a staircase, irregular windows were opened

in the halls of the Merveille, the cloister was planted as a garden, to

the deterioration of the lower structures, and when, in 1776, fire

weakened the abbatial, its three westernmost bays were demolished and

the present ugly façade put up. After the Revolution pillaged the

monastery it became a state prison called Mont Libre, and so continued

until 1863. The church was floored midway to serve as a convicts' hat

factory. The modern restoration of Mont-Saint-Michel has been, like that

which saved the palace of the popes at Avignon, a truly national

benefit.

THE CATHEDRAL OF ROUEN[338]

One can say that nothing great ever was accomplished in the Church

without women bearing a part. A host of them stood among the

martyrs in the amphitheater; they disputed with the anchorites the

possession of the desert. Constantine set up the Labarum on the

Capitol, and St. Helena raised the True Cross on the walls of

Jerusalem. Clovis, at Tolbiac, invoked the God of Clotilda.

Monica's tears won the conversion of Augustine. Jerome dedicated

the Vulgate to the piety of two Roman ladies, Paula and Eustochium.

The first lawmakers of monkish life, Basil and Benedict, were

seconded by their sisters, Macrina and Scholastica. The Countess

Matilda held up the tottering throne of Gregory VII. The wise

judgment of Queen Blanche dominated the reign of St. Louis. France

was saved by Jeanne d'Arc. Isabella of Castile led in the discovery

of the New World. And in times closer to our own we see St. Teresa

mixing with bishops, doctors, and the founders of Orders by which

the reform in Catholic ranks was operated. We see St. Francis de

Sales cultivating like a rare flower the soul of Madame de Chantal,

and St. Vincent de Paul passing over to Louise Marillac the most

admirable of his designs, the establishment of the Sisters of

Charity.--FRÉDÉRIC OZANAM.

So much for the abbey churches of Normandy. Many another might be

described, but with six Gothic cathedrals to consider, one must refrain.

Of the six--Rouen, Lisieux, Évreux, Séez, Bayeux, and Coutances--that of

Rouen shows the earliest Gothic work and its character is more French

than Norman, as if the river, flowing down from Paris, carried with its

waters the characteristics of the art life astir on the banks of the

Seine, Oise, Aisne, and Marne.

The least local of Normandy's cathedrals, Our Lady's church at Rouen,

has a magnetism distinctly its own--from its florid romantic west front,

the most lavish screen ever set up, to the imposing sentry columns that

guard its sanctuary. The northwest tower is Normandy's best Primary

Gothic, the southwest tower the supremest belfry that sprang up to

commemorate the freeing of France from foreign yoke. The façades of the

transept and the Lady chapel (whose tombs mark dates in the art history

of France) rank with perfect Rayonnant work. Its storied windows are

among the richest ever dight by mediæval guildsmen.

Not but that a dozen flaws might be picked in the metropolitan church at

Rouen. Were it to be strictly ranked among French cathedrals, it could

not be placed among the foremost. But it has gone on embellishing itself

century after century with a self-respect so sincere that few care to

dispute its claim to stand in the front rank.

On a first visit to Rouen many an amateur prefers the regularity of St.

Ouen's abbatial, which in size equals Westminster Abbey.[339] St. Ouen,

the classic of Rayonnant design, geometric in tracery, accentuating the

ascending line, coldly perfect in construction, possessed still the true

_sursum corda_ of Gothic, though the art was fast crystallizing into

formulas. The capitals were lessened, and the glazed triforium united to

the clearstory in a single composition. Made of fine-textured gray stone

St. Ouen is a stately vessel, but, add the critics, "its uniform

excellence is average." Gothic lore has not degenerated, but has simply

gone too far in the development of its principles, says the mechanical

artistry of the last built of the great monastic churches of France,

planned before the tragedies of the Hundred Years' War had petrified the

national genius.[340]

The cathedral of Normandy's capital is not uniform, but its excellence

surpasses the average. It is not homogeneous, its proportions are not

absolutely harmonious, but it has profundity, personal character, and

flashes of genius. The better it is known the deeper grows affection for

it, which is not the case with St. Ouen. In the latter one feels that

the cult is the main concern; in the cathedral there is piety of heart.

The early history of Sainte-Marie at Rouen follows the usual course.

Norse marauders wrecked the ancient cathedral. Rollo, the first duke,

endowed another which was radically reconstructed under an XI-century

archbishop, a son of Duke Richard II. In 1063, that Romanesque church

was dedicated by Archbishop Maurille (whose tomb is in the present

ambulatory) in the presence of William the Conqueror and his good

Matilda. Vestiges of the Romanesque edifice are in the first bay of the

choir aisle. In it were interred the prodigious Rollo, the Norwegian

sea-robber, who sacked half Normandy, sailed up the Seine to terrorize

Paris, and up the Loire to overrun Auvergne and Burgundy, and yet, no

sooner was he granted the duchy of northern France than the buccaneer

gave way to a ruler whose laws were so respected that golden bracelets

were left exposed and remained unstolen for years in the forest of

Roumare. Rollo was baptized a Christian in Rouen, in 912, and there he

wedded a Carolingian princess. When his son, William Longsword, died in

945, he was wearing a gold key that opened a casket containing a monk's

robe for his burial; the new rulers were swift to comprehend that

monasteries were the chief civilizers in that formative age.

Near Rouen, in 1087, died the Conqueror, sixth in descent from Rollo.

"Pirate jostled statesman" in him, too. Mortally wounded at Mantes, he

was brought to the priory of St. Gervase--beneath which suburban church

still exists intact a V-century crypt--and as he heard the bells of

Rouen Cathedral ringing, there rose to haunt him the curses, not loud

but deep, of the oppressed Anglo-Saxons, and most piteously he

petitioned the Queen of Heaven to draw Her Son's attention to all the

religious houses he had built for the people's good on both sides of the

Channel. No sooner was he dead than his retainers stripped and robbed

him, and through private charity he was carried to his horror-inspiring

burial at Caen.

To Rouen, because of its generosity to him in his captivity, Richard

Coeur-de-Lion bequeathed his heart. In 1203 the last duke of Normandy,

John Lackland, fled from Rouen after the murder of his nephew, Arthur of

Brittany, of which the popular voice accused him. Philippe-Auguste

entered the city in triumph in 1204, and the building of the new Gothic

cathedral started apace.

Notre Dame at Rouen is associated closely with the return of Normandy

under French rule. On Easter night, 1200, fire ravaged the city and its

chief church. Whether the cathedral then wrecked was that blessed in

1063 by Bishop Robert de Maurille is uncertain. Some think that it was a

Romanesque choir and transept which were burned, and a recently built

Primary Gothic nave. It may have been an entirely new Gothic church

which was destroyed. At any rate, the northwest tower, named after the

VII-century bishop, Romanus, and the side doors of the main façade

escaped the fire. The preservation of the tower was due, probably, to

its position beyond the side aisle. The doors, built about 1180, are

ornamented with Oriental incrustations such as are to be seen in the

cathedral at Genoa, with which seaport Rouen had trade links.

The Tour Saint-Romain, whose prototypes were the towers at Étampes,

Vendôme, and Chartres, was long counted as the oldest Primary Gothic

work extant in Normandy, with the chapter house at St. Georges de

Boscherville and the chapel of St. Julien, Petit-Quevilly.[341] But as

many archæologists now say that the Gothic vault of St. Étienne's nave

at Caen may be 1130 just as well as 1160, and that there are still

earlier diagonals in the duchy, it remains an open question where the

oldest extant ogival work of Normandy is. Mr. John Bilson claims that

the diagonals of Lessay's choir pre-date any in the Ile-de-France.

However the controversy over the priority of diagonals may be decided,

the tower of St. Romain is the first Norman monument that shows the

incontestable influence of Gothic of the Ile-de-France type.

The spirit of religious ardor that expressed itself in the northwest

tower of Rouen Cathedral was described by Bishop Hugues d'Amiens in a

letter, in 1145, to a brother prelate. He tells how volunteers were

quitting Normandy to aid in the making of the new tower at Chartres: "In

like manner, a large number of the faithful of this, our diocese, and of

neighboring regions, put themselves to work on the cathedral church,

their mother, forming associations to which no one is admitted unless he

has confessed his sins, fulfilled his penances, laid down at the foot of

the altar every enmity and revenge, and become reconciled with his

enemies in a true peace. Under the lead of one in the band, who is

chosen as chief, the people drag heavy wagons in humility and silence."

The writer of this famous letter had been a monk of Cluny, and while

ruling the see of Rouen he taught school there; he had inherited the

traditions of Bec's scholarship through Anselm of Laon. The lower hall

of the cathedral tower then begun is considered faultless. Before the

close of the century the upper hall was completed, but the belfry story

was not added till the late-Gothic day.

After the fire of 1200 work on the new cathedral was pushed on with

energy. A master called Jean d'Andely is cited as the architect, a

native, probably, of Les Andelys farther up the Seine, where there are

two churches so closely resembling the cathedral of Rouen that they are

doubtless from the same hand.[342] Another architect, named Enguerrand,

is mentioned as quitting work on the cathedral of the capital in 1214,

to undertake the abbatial at Bec. A keystone of Notre Dame, of the date

1233, is inscribed by one Durand, mason. He is thought to have been the

son-in-law of the original architect, Jean d'Andely.

The first plan of Rouen Cathedral called for tribunes over the aisles,

but the idea was given up in order to have the side aisles twice as high

as originally designed. The arches by which the tribunes would have

opened on the central vessel were retained, however, as was done later

with the false tribunes of the abbey church at Eu. In the side aisles,

resting on the capitals of the nave's piers, are ringed colonnettes that

rise to the ledge above--a ledge constructed to catch the tribune's

diagonals (which never were built). By this graceful expedient they

cloaked architectural members prepared but not used. The passageway

carried from pier to pier above the main arcade of the nave is

exceptional. An apsidal chapel projects from each arm of the transept,

as in the Romanesque edifices of the region.

The archbishop under whom Notre Dame of Rouen was begun was Walter of

Coutance, _Gautier-le-magnifique_ (1184-1207), who willed his fortune to

the cathedral, since it was he, devoted public servant of the

Plantagenets, and long the chief justice of England, who had urged the

chapter to sell its treasure to help ransom Coeur-de-Lion from

captivity after the Third Crusade. He himself went as hostage into

Germany in order that Richard might be released before his full ransom

was raised. Learned, liberal, and affable, Bishop Walter was a man of

whom all spoke well.

The choir of Rouen Cathedral showed more the regional characteristics;

the arches were more acute and the moldings multiple. The circular piers

about the sanctuary have Norman round capitals. We know that in 1235 a

bishop was buried in the choir, which must have been entirely finished

when, in 1255, St. Louis spent Easter in Rouen as the guest of his

friend and counselor, Archbishop Eudes Rigaud (1247-74), a Franciscan,

who was to accompany the king on his fatal crusade. The choir's upper

windows were reconstructed during the XV century.

About 1280, architect Jean Davy began the south façade of the transept,

the Portail de la Calende, so called because there was carved there a

mythical animal of that name, considered in ancient times as a symbol of

the Saviour, since the superstition was that the sight of a Calende

cured illness. The transept façades of Rouen are among the best works of

the Rayonnant phase. Their sculpture, says M. Enlart, has not yet the

fluid indecision of XIV-century draperies. A pronounced feature of that

period are the openwork gables, which, though they may be superbly

decorative, are none the less a step away from constructive sincerity,

since drip stones made of lacework masonry fail to fulfill their

practical function.

The northern door of the transept was named from the canon's library

beside it. It, too, like the earlier Calende portal, was paneled with

medallions over which many a pharisee has shaken his head. The Middle

Ages were neither pharisaic nor prudish. Rouen's little sculptured

groups are merely fantastic and popular. They embody no satire against

the clergy, as some would intimate; nor are they obscene. To place a

centaur or an acrobat in proximity to a scriptural group seemed then no

more profane than to illuminate the margins of missals with meaningless

frolics. Leeway was allowed the artistic imagination, which here ran

largely to grotesques. The medallions of the Calende door were in better

sequence and of more vigorous character than those of the Portail des

Libraires. Beside this latter entrance is the courtroom of the

archepiscopal palace adorned with statues representing Solomon's

judgment, in souvenir of the old usage of rendering justice before

church doors.

From 1302 to 1320 rose the Rayonnant Gothic Lady chapel of impeccable

mechanical skill but not inspired. Long centuries later, during the

Revolution, its tomb of the cardinals d'Amboise,[343] in which Gothic

sculpture culminated, escaped destruction because the axis chapel served

as a granary. Clement V, the builder of Bordeaux' Rayonnant choir,

arranged that his nephew, who was archbishop of Rouen and had got into

difficulties with the Norman nobles, should exchange his see with Gilles

Aycelin, the prelate who was erecting Narbonne Cathedral, brother of the

bishop-builder of Clermont's nave. A little later another archbishop of

Rouen became the Avignon pontiff who built the audience hall and the

chief chapel of the palace on the Rhone. Other XIV-century additions to

Rouen Cathedral are the side chapels; every guild and corporation craved

thus to honor its own particular patron.

Those contemporary works, Rouen's Lady chapel, the choirs of Bordeaux

and Narbonne, Avignon's halls, belong to the phase of the national

genius which we call Rayonnant because of its geometric window tracery,

a phase aptly designated as metallic by M. Gonse. Artists were fast

losing their exquisite feeling for the silhouette; the vertical line

was over-accentuated; triforium and clearstory had become one

composition. Pitiless logic was drying up the spring of inspiration.

When the cathedral of Rouen remade three bays of the nave's triforium,

the model taken was the geometric design of that masterpiece of

Rayonnant Gothic, the abbatial of St. Ouen. Before the XIV century

closed the façade of the cathedral was redressed with arcatures and

statues like the west frontispieces of Wells, Salisbury, and Litchfield.

The XV century carried through the chief supplementary works of

Sainte-Marie of Rouen in a style frankly florid. Normandy, Artois, and

Picardy reveled in the last development of the national art, regions all

of them having close links with England. For if much of Flamboyant

Gothic was indigenous, as M. Anthyme Saint-Paul contends, if it

enveloped and absorbed Rayonnant Gothic, it seems fairly well proved

that its two most pronounced traits, the flamelike window tracery and

arches of double curvature, came from England. M. Enlart says that

ramified vaults were built at Ely, Lincoln, and Litchfield, during the

XIII century. By 1304 accolade arches were used; at Merton College,

Oxford, is a flame-tracery window of 1310, features not to be found in

France before 1375.[344] In the Rayonnant phase lines break; in the

Flamboyant they undulate. Rayonnant capitals were diminished; capitals

disappeared altogether in the later period, and molds melted into the

piers.

Normandy expressed her renewed national dignity with enthusiasm in the

flowery, happy architecture we call Flamboyant:

Le Temps a laissié son manteau

De vent, de froidure et de pluye,

Et s'est vestu de broderye

De soleil raiant, cler, et beau.

So sang Charles, Duke of Orléans, come back from twenty years in English

prisons to witness the expulsion of the invader from Normandy:

Il n'y a beste ne oiseau

Que en son jargon ne chante ou crye;

Le Temps a laissié son manteau

De vent, de froidure et de pluye.[345]

How they built in Rouen! With what vim and emancipated energy! St. Ouen

carried forward its nave and raised a central tower. From 1437 to 1480

was built the gallant little church of St. Maclou with a central tower

that is one of the best in Normandy, and whose curving front of five

arcades is profusely elegant. Similarly large, ornate portals became the

vogue in late-Gothic Norman construction. St. Maclou is to the Gothic

art of the XIII century what the reel is to the minuet, said an English

architect.[346]

In the cathedral of Rouen one noted master succeeded another. Guillaume

Pontifs put the belfry on St. Romain's tower (1463-77); built the

canon's library, to which he made a staircase from the cathedral's

transept; and made the decorated portico leading from the rue St. Romain

to the court before the Portail des Libraires. No approach to a church

possesses more entirely the atmosphere of the Middle Ages than that.

Pontifs began a masterpiece of Flamboyant architecture, the Tour de

Beurre (1485-1509), that, as it rises, grows more and more sumptuous,

though it never loses its architectural lines. Unfortunately the stone

used was of poor quality, which necessitated a coarse sculpture. The

transition from square to octagon was gracefully achieved by the one

constructive arrangement which originated during the final stage of the

national art: to unify the design, flying buttresses were sprung from

the corner turrets and the face-shafts to the octagon.[347]

From 1497 to 1507 the master-of-works at Rouen Cathedral was Jacques Le

Roux, who continued the Tour de Beurre, finished by his nephew, Rouland

Le Roux (1507-20), an artist of the first order. He redressed the upper

part of the main frontispiece in order to put it into character with the

Tour de Beurre and St. Romain's belfry. After completing the middle

portal of the façade he reconstructed the central tower, whose platform

he raised a story higher. When Rouen's lantern tower was burned in 1822

the present iron skeleton was contrived, a structure too mechanical to

be architecture, but of good effect in the distant views of the city.

The oft repeated renewals of the famous frontispiece of Rouen Cathedral

account for its failure to express the interior church structurally, but

though merely a screen, it is deservedly popular, "one of the dreams of

the Middle Ages," M. Émile Lambin has called it. By moonlight its effect

is romantic, almost spectacular. Most popular, too, is another work of

Rouland Le Roux, the Palais de Justice which he built with Roger Ango,

from 1493 to 1507, for the parliament of Normandy. A pomp and a

pageantry carried almost to folly distinguished the generations that

raised monuments such as these. In 1520, when Francis I met Henry VIII,

not far from Rouen, at the Field of the Cloth of Gold, many a lord,

says the chronicler, carried on his back his mills and his forests and

his meadows. One of the most curious houses in France, Rouen's Hôtel du

Bourgtherould, now a bank near the Old Market, is decorated exteriorly

by reliefs of the Field of the Cloth of Gold.[348] M. Léon Palustre

discovered that the sculpture on its tower, originally polychrome, was a

copy of a Flemish tapestry in the possession of that prince of

pageantry, Philippe le Hardi of Burgundy.

The archbishop of Rouen from 1493 to 1510 was none other than the

Mæcenas of his age, Cardinal George I d'Amboise, chief minister of Louis

XII. All over France we have traced the work of that art-loving

family--at Paris, Cluny, Clermont, Chaumont, Albi. A nephew of the same

name held the see here until 1545, and saw to the erection of his

uncle's tomb, designed by Rouland Le Roux, with sculpture by artists of

the Michel Colombe tradition as well as those of the Italian

Renaissance.

Rouen was so active a center for glassmaking that, in 1317, Exeter

obtained windows here, as did Gloucester and Merton College, Oxford.

Next to Troyes, Rouen contained the richest collection of colored glass

in France. Until the Revolution her eighty lesser churches were filled

with it. The best windows left are six lancets in the ambulatory of the

cathedral. They belong to the XIII-century school of Chartres and are

exceptional in being the only signed windows; "Clement of Chartres" was

their maker. The first, given by a company of boatmen, relates the

legend of St. Julian Hospitator, who ferried strangers day and night

over the river, a story recounted by Gustave Flaubert, a son of

Rouen.[349] The other five lancets are of the _Biblia pauperum_ type,

teaching dogma to the people. The cold, limpid hues of the XIV century

appear in the Lady chapel, and in the chapel of St. Jeanne d'Arc is an

interesting Pentecost window of that century; contemporary are the apse

lights in the upper choir, where the unsuccessful experiment was tried

of continuing the subject from one panel to another--here the arms of

the Crucified Lord extend into the lateral lights. The cathedral's west

rose is of the XV century; in the transept is a XVI-century window

devoted to the ancient bishop Romanus. The abbatial of St. Ouen has,

with the choir of Évreux, the best array extant of XIV-century canopy

glass figures. So loath were the vitrine artists to give up an

architectural design in glass that when the XV century composed scenes

instead of single figures for each panel, even those small groups were

set in grisaille frames.

The iconoclastic 1562 worked havoc in Rouen. For twenty-four hours a

Huguenot mob wrecked tombs, altars, and windows in the cathedral, to

such an extent that it lay unused during half a year. One mourns the

loss of the cenotaph of good Charles V, made in 1369 by the same Jean de

Marville who designed the famous Dijon tomb of the king's brother. Ten

years later, in 1572, the Rouen Catholics retaliated by massacring some

eight hundred Calvinists in the city on St. Bartholomew's Day.

In the World War Rouen became almost an English city again. This time,

however, England, the ancient combatant of France, came not as a

detested invader, but as her ally in dire years of distress. It is

pleasant to learn that devotion to the Maid of Orleans was not

infrequent among the English troops of 1914-18.

JEANNE D'ARC'S TRIAL IN ROUEN[350]

De ma part, je répute son histoire un vrai miracle le Dieu. La

pudicité que je vois l'avoir accompagnée jusques à sa mort, même au

milieu des troupes; la juste querelle qu'elle prit; la prouesse

qu'elle y apporta; les heureux succès de ses affaires; la sage

simplicité que je recueille de ses réponses au interrogatoires qui

lui furent faits par les juges du tout voués à sa ruine; ses

prédictions qui, depuis, sortirent effet; la mort cruelle qu'elle

choisit dont elle se pouvoit garantir s'il y eût de la feintise en

son fait; tout cela dis-je, me fait croire (joint les voyes du ciel

quelle oyoit) que toute sa vie et histoire fut un vrai martyre de

Dieu.--Testimony of ÉTIENNE PASQUIER (1529-1615).

So swiftly followed the fruitage of the sacrifice offered up in the

Vieux-Marché on May 21, 1431, that in every part of the ancient city of

Rouen sprang up exuberant, vigorous, Flamboyant monuments. The most

momentous and the saddest happening in the history of Normandy's capital

was the burning at the stake of Jeanne la Pucelle whose relief of

Orléans, only two short years before, had saved the nation in its last

gasp.

From the church of St. Saviour on the market place they brought her the

cross for which she begged on that tragic morning, that the pillory on

which her Lord had hung might be held up before her eyes, to strengthen

her in her last hour. Long afterward, in 1450, Massieu, the

priest-sheriff of her trial, a weak man but less unsympathetic than many

in that grim gathering of rascals, testified: "The English feared her

more than the whole army of the king of France.... It was they who held

the trial and paid its costs. She was taken to the Viel-Marché, having

beside her Brother Martin and me, and accompanied by more than eight

hundred men at arms, with spears and swords. On the way she made pious

lamentation so touchingly that my companion and I could not keep back

our tears. She recommended her soul to God and the saints with such

devotion that those who heard her wept. All distressed, she exclaimed,

'Rouen, Rouen, must I die here!'"

When the Old Market was reached Jeanne heard herself sermonized as a

limb of Satan, a blasphemer guilty of diabolical malice, of pernicious

crimes, and infected with the leprosy of heresy. Her sentence read, she

fell on her knees and addressed to God prayers so ardent that even the

foreign masters of Rouen were moved. Her dear St. Michael she

petitioned, too. "As soon as the flames reached her," relates an

eyewitness, "she cried out more than six times, '_Jhésus!_' and then a

final time, in a loud voice, with her last breath, '_Jhésus!_' And her

cry was heard from end to end of the market place, and almost everyone

was weeping.... A shiver passed over the assembly.... The people pointed

at her judges and said that Jeanne was the victim of a great

injustice.... They murmured that such an evil deed should have taken

place in their city.... That evening the executioner went to the

Dominican convent and confessed in fear, 'I have burned a saint!'... The

secretary of the English king turned away from the lamentable spectacle,

muttering: 'We are lost. We have burned a saint!" Surrounded by her

brutal jailers, at dawn that May morning, Jeanne had said, with

confidence, "With God's aid, I shall be this night in His Kingdom of

Paradise." As her final cry to her Redeemer rang out, a canon of Rouen

Cathedral prayed aloud, "Would to God my soul were where I believe is

the soul of this Maid."

The young priest-secretary, the clerk of the court, Manchon, who took

down her trial (and let his irresistible admiration for her run over in

marginal notes, "_Superba responsio!_"), testified later: "Never did I

weep so much over any grief that has come to me, and for a month I could

not be appeased. I bought a little missal with the money that came to me

from the trial, that I might have cause to remember her in my prayers."

The verdict of all impartial men in Rouen, that somber May morning of

1431, was that the whole business from beginning to end had been

violence and injustice.[351]

A packed jury had judged her. The president of the tribunal, the

renegade selected to prove a saint a sorceress, was Bishop Pierre

Cauchon, driven from his see of Beauvais by loyal Frenchmen, as the

enemy of his own country. Because the see of Rouen was unoccupied, the

English preferred to hold Jeanne's trial there rather than at Paris,

where the bishop was not their creature. How abject a tool Cauchon was

is to-day shown by old receipts which prove that he was the recipient,

on each day of the trial, of a hundred _sols tournois_. For the same

ignoble reason many a learned professor "charged his soul."

There was not the faintest shadow of fair play in the process. After

Maître Jean Lohier had said to Cauchon that the proceedings were not

valid because Jeanne was allowed no counsel, nor were the hearings in

public court, and those present had not freedom to express their true

opinion, that honest Norman lawyer saw that his only safety lay in

quitting the city. "It is an affair of hate," he said to young

Secretary Manchon one day as they stood together in Rouen Cathedral.

"Deliberately they try to trap her. If only she would not say in regard

to her apparitions, 'I know for certain,' but, 'It seems to me,' I do

not see how she could be condemned."

Some canons of the cathedral who criticized the trial were thrown into

prison, and the English locked up a citizen who remarked that since

Jeanne had been judged innocent by the doctors at Poitiers, in a court

presided over by the archbishop of Rheims, a second trial was illegal.

Three of the younger judges who at first dared to give their true

opinion were berated by Cauchon, who bade them quit their ecclesiastical

quibbling and let the jurists decide the matter. The testimony of the

aged bishop of Avranches, then a resident of Rouen, was set aside

because he advised that in matters doubtful touching the faith the case

should be referred to a council or to the pope. Because Massieu, the

humble court usher, said to a townsman, "I can see nothing but goodness

and honor in her," he was threatened with a prison cell where never

again would he see sun or moon. The secretaries, Manchon and

Boisguillaume, were beaten by the English. A man on the street who spoke

well of Jeanne was chased by Lord Warwick with a drawn sword and almost

killed. Passions ran high. Lord Stafford drew his dagger on Jeanne in

her cell one day because she said that the English would be driven out

of France. Even after her execution, when a Dominican in the city spoke

kindly of her, he was flung into prison for a year.

Her judges sought to tire Jeanne out by long hours of interrogation; the

lawyers themselves came away exhausted from the sessions. Virulent

against her was Beaupère, rector of Paris University, who, when routed

by the young girl's replies, called her sly. When Cauchon wished to have

it appear that she refused to submit to the Church, he made the scribes

omit her statement that gladly she appealed to a general council or to

the pope. "Ah," cried Jeanne, "you write all that is against me, but you

do not write anything for me." The lawyers' subtle questions rained on

her thick and fast till she would call them to order with admirable

courtesy, "_Beaux seigneurs, faites l'un après l'autre_." Whenever she

wished to make no reply to a question came her concise, "_Passez

outre_." Secretary Manchon testified before an inquest, twenty years

later, "Never could Jeanne have defended herself as she did in so

difficult a cause, against so many and such learned doctors, if she had

not been inspired."

Sublime to tears are some of the answers made by this young country girl

not yet twenty, who could barely read and write, who knew only _Pater_

and _Ave_. When sheeringly asked were she in a state of grace, she

replied: "A serious question to answer. If I am, may God keep me so; if

I am not, may God put me in his grace. I would rather die than not have

God's love." Awe fell on the assemblage and for that day the session

broke up.[352]

Yet Jeanne was very human at her trial, too. It was just the

well-brought-up country maid, the Jeannette they all loved in Domrémy,

who boasted before those callous men: "For sewing and for spinning, I

fear no woman in Rouen." Those housewives of Rouen, the "little people

of the Lord," to whom Jeanne's thoughts turned in homely fashion, dared

only murmur beneath their breath that her process was "a crying

injustice," and shame it was that so evil a _cause célèbre_ should take

place in their good town. Rouen was terrorized into silence by her

foreign master.

Jeanne's five months' imprisonment and final execution at Rouen was a

political crime covered with the cloak of religious zeal by a very

genius of hypocrisy. John Plantagenet, Duke of Bedford, together with

the boy king's great-uncle, the cardinal of Winchester, were the movers

behind the scenes. Jeanne never quitted her prison in the castle built

by Philippe-Auguste--only a tower of which is extant to-day. From that

stronghold the English governed Normandy. Since the opening of the

World War an erroneous inscription, placed by partisan politicians in

the wall of the episcopal palace of Rouen, has been changed, for it

sought to convey the idea that from the prelate's court of justice

Jeanne was led forth to her death. Never did she set foot in that

officiality building; she was held from the first day to the last in an

English prison. From a dark cell in the tower fortress she was conducted

through corridors of the same castle to the hall where sat her judges.

Massieu, the usher, used to let her slip into the castle chapel for an

_Ave_ as she passed its open door, but even that solace was stopped by

Estivet. That venomous agent of Cauchon accused Jeanne of ironic replies

ill suited to a woman.[353]

Cauchon tried to coerce the young priest-secretaries of the trial,

Manchon and Boisguillaume, to falsify their notes, but they proved

incorruptible. And twenty years later they, with Massieu, became the

chief vindicators of the Maid when the inquests for her rehabilitation

were started. Jeanne had felt their unspoken sympathy. Once with

pleasant humor she told them not to ask her the same question twice or

she would pull their ears. We know from contemporaries that Jeanne's way

of intercourse was natural and friendly, _enjouée_, that her attitude

was modesty itself, that her voice had a feminine note of sweetness,

that she was strong and comely and well shaped, that her hair was dark.

Born in 1412, by the Meuse, in Domrémy, on the old Roman road from

Langres to Verdun, in French territory, on the borders of Champagne and

Lorraine, she was not yet eighteen when she crossed the ravaged land in

the winter of 1429 to rouse Charles VII, then in Chinon Castle. In March

of that year she raised the siege of Orléans; in July she witnessed the

coronation of her "_gentil dauphin_" at Rheims; in September occurred

the assault on Paris, from which siege Charles VII, counseled by

traitors, retired, and all winter Jeanne was kept in semiactivity,

though chafing to free the land from the foreign yoke. Especially she

longed to go to the aid of the besieged Mont-Saint-Michel, and to

liberate from his English prison the poet-duke of Orléans, even, she

said, if it meant going to London Tower itself. In May, 1430, she was

captured by her enemies, the Burgundians. Jeanne's active mission

covered only a year. "Several times in my presence," testified the Duke

d'Alençon,[354] her companion in arms, "Jeanne told the king she would

last but a year, and to look well that he made right use of her." But

Charles VII failed her.

After her capture Jeanne spent some months in prisons in northern

France, and finally she was sold to the English for a king's ransom.

Never in their minds was there any mistake as to who had turned the tide

against them. "They had for her a mortal hate," said, in later years,

Pierre Minier, one of the judges cowed by the Duke of Bedford; "they

thirsted to bring about her death, no matter by what means."

From December, 1430, to May, 1431, Jeanne's martyrdom at Rouen endured.

"An iron cage was made for her, and at night she was chained up,"

declared Secretary Boisguillaume, at the inquest of 1450. "She was

incarcerated in Rouen Castle; her guardians were English soldiery of the

lowest type; day and night they kept watch ... they made her the object

of their mockeries; often she reproached them for it. Her feet were held

in irons which were attached to a post." There were scenes in that dark

cell, vouched for by witnesses, which are too painful to

transcribe.[355] Only when she fell ill was the severity with which she

was treated relaxed, lest by a natural death she escape public burning.

One day Estivet so vilified her that she had a relapse of fever. Every

detail is set down in the process for her rehabilitation, for which the

Dominican Bréhal traveled from end to end of France, gathering testimony

from those who had known Jeanne. But the chief instrument of her

vindication is the word-for-word record of her trial at Rouen in 1431.

Not in all history is there a more personal and appealing document. One

can hear Jeanne's very accent in her valiant replies to her tormentors.

"_Répondes hardiment_," her voices admonished her.

Why did Charles VII, who, before Jeanne appeared, was about to pass into

foreign exile, strike no blow to rescue her who had given him back his

kingdom? A difficult question to answer. Charles was no hero, though his

quality of perseverance was ultimately to make him the instrument that

ended the centuries-old Capet-Plantagenet duel. Charles was surrounded

by counselors who were jealous of Jeanne's leadership, who represented

her captivity as the result of her headstrong character.

In 1449 Charles, _le bien servi_, but not the duly grateful, entered

Rouen "in triumph and magnificence as never king in city." Bells rang

out and children cried, "_Noël!_" in welcome. In the cathedral the

festal throng gathered. Beside the king stood Jacques Coeur, the

merchant-prince, who had provided the funds for the reconquest of

Normandy, and whose splendor of apparel on this triumphal entry was so

to excite the barons' envy that within four years their machinations had

him impeached, despoiled, and banished. He who was building at Bourges

the finest bourgeois mansion in France, must have observed with interest

the host of Flamboyant monuments then arising in Rouen. With Charles VII

came, too, his commander in chief, the great Dunois, who had fought with

Jeanne, the half brother of the Duke of Orléans, who that day was

singing:

"Resjoys-toy, franc royaume de France!

À présent Dieu pour toy se combat."

When Normandy was again French, not many years were to pass before Rouen

exonerated herself of the crime of Jeanne's execution. The chief mover

of the rehabilitation was the archbishop of the city, the Norman,

Guillaume d'Estouteville, son of the hero who in 1415 held Harfleur

against the entire army of Henry V, brother of the knight who led the

defense of Mont-Saint-Michel, and nephew of Archbishop d'Harcourt, who

gave up his see of Rouen to live in exile, rather than swear fealty to a

non-French master. Cardinal d'Estouteville saw the propriety of clearing

not only Normandy but France and the Church of what had been the

political crime of foreigners. Through his efforts Pope Calixtus III, in

1456, revoked the legal decision of 1431, as "iniquitous, malicious,

calumnious, and fraudulent." The unworthy Cauchon was excommunicated. A

formal reading of the sentence of rehabilitation took place in the big

hall of Rouen's episcopal palace: "Considering the quality of the judges

and of those who directed the trial, considering that her abjuration was

extorted by fraud and violence, in presence of the executioner and under

threat of fire, without the accused understanding its full content and

terms, considering finally that the crimes charged against her are not

proven whatsoever by the process"--thus runs the decree declaring

Jeanne's two sentences of condemnation in 1431 to be the work of

iniquity. It was ordered that the rehabilitation be read publicly, not

alone in Rouen, but in all the chief towns of France.

Rouen celebrated with gladness the justice rendered to the Maid who had

saved France in her darkest hour. A solemn procession, in which marched

Jeanne's brothers, who had been ennobled by the king, proceeded to the

graveyard beside St. Ouen's abbatial, where, twenty-five years earlier,

Jeanne had sat alone on a platform above the crowd, just a week before

her execution. They had there read to her the twelve

accusations--dubbing her witch and wanton--which a doctor of Paris

University had drawn up, and then a preacher thundered in vituperation.

Jeanne listened gently till she heard Charles VII abused, whereupon she,

who had the mystic cult of royalty, lifted up her head bravely: "By my

faith, sire," she cried, "my king is a noble Christian. Say what you

will of me, but leave my king alone." "Hush her up!" angrily cried

Cauchon.

In that cemetery of St. Ouen occurred what now is called proper

self-defense on Jeanne's part. She could write her name, but with a

smile she signed with a circle, emblem of mockery, and a cross, meaning

negation. She hoped to be transferred to the prisons of the Church,

where she clamored to be placed. Jeanne signed a paper consisting of

seven lines, and afterward they produced an abjuration of fifty lines.

Her judge might be a bishop, but never once did she confuse the Church

she revered and the unworthy clerics who sat in judgment on her. During

the ceremonies of the rehabilitation at Rouen, a great procession

marched to the Old Market where had stood Jeanne's funeral pyre, and

with solemnity the twelve accusations against her were torn into shreds

and burned. Rouen felt happier after rendering that justice, and her

renewed self-respect found natural expression in her Flamboyant Gothic

monuments.

However, many a long year was to go by before France fully comprehended

the martyr of Rouen. Voltaire libeled Jeanne as vilely as the XV-century

savants of Paris University. The rationalists of a later day have

patronized her as self-hallucinated. But the tide has mounted. "The day

that all the bells of the world ring in honor of Jeanne d'Arc, they will

sound abroad the glory of France," said Leo XIII, in 1896. The Maid of

Domrémy-on-the-Meuse was declared Venerable in 1904, Blessed in 1909,

and canonized a saint in 1920. _St. Jeanne d'Arc, ora pro nobis!_

THE CATHEDRAL OF LISIEUX[356]

One must live as one thinks, or else, sooner or later, one finishes

by thinking as one lives.--PAUL BOURGET.

Lisieux Cathedral is, with that of Rouen, the least Norman in the

province. It claims to be the first built of the Gothic cathedrals of

Normandy and the most vigorous. The preceding Romanesque cathedral was

grievously damaged by fire in 1136. Arnoul, a prelate who had gone

through the disillusioning experience of the Second Crusade, began the

present church. Similarities between it and Laon Cathedral, and various

other indications, prove that it was building from 1160 to 1190.

Bishop Arnoul, of a line of shrewd Norman diplomatists, profited

materially by his ability to keep on good terms with both husbands of

Aliénor of Aquitaine, Henry of England, and Louis of France. In Lisieux

Cathedral he married Aliénor to Henry II, which act was to take three

hundred years of war and Jeanne's sacrifice to undo. Arnoul was the

English king's chief adviser before Becket's ascendancy. It is said that

he counseled Henry, after his first quarrel with Becket, to detach one

by one the English bishops from their primate, which policy of _divide

et impera_ came only too easily to an Angevin-Anglo-Norman. Four times

did Bishop Arnoul journey to Sens to negotiate for Henry with the pope,

during the Becket controversy. Some of the leading men of his day

admired the prelate of Lisieux; but soundly honest men such as Abbot

Robert de Torigny of the Mount, and the bishop of Chartres, John of

Salisbury, distrusted him entirely--the latter remarked on his political

sense in bestowing benefits when he wished to convince a man of his

point of view.

Under Bishop Arnoul the nave of Lisieux rose in one campaign, a monument

severe and pure, fog-colored like the wintry sky over it, say the

townsmen. A note of force is imparted by the sturdy cylindrical piers.

There is a narthex bay at the western end--a Germanic influence. No

trace of vaulting shows in the deep gallery over the aisles, though the

triforium arches that open on the central vessel are better suited for a

tribune than a blind arcade. Behind that arcade now stands a poorly

constructed wall opened here and there by doors, reminding us that once

it was the custom for crusaders to store their valuables in the upper

galleries of cathedrals.

Some have suggested that Guillaume de Sens was the architect of Lisieux,

whose resemblances with his known works at Sens and Canterbury are

discernible. Lisieux adhered to the Romanesque tradition of salient

transept arms; that to the north lacks a portal; that to the south is an

excellent example of plainest Primary Gothic. The transept has an

eastern aisle, an arrangement found at Durham, Lincoln, Salisbury, and

Peterborough. The first two bays of the choir were built, like the nave,

in the XII century; the birth of the apse is marked by a staircase, as

at Caen, Boscherville, Fécamp, and Eu.

The ample central tower of Lisieux, not in the first plan, was erected

as the choir was gradually extended. In the later-constructed straight

bays of the choir, and at the apse, finished under Bishop Jourdain du

Hommet, no annulets broke the ascending line of the clustered shafts,

quatrefoils were cut in the spandrels, and more and more the structure

took on regional characteristics. Arches were set under arches, some of

them being acutely pointed, because the Norman preferred to use the same

opening of the compass for all his arches, wide or narrow. It gave his

eye pleasure to multiply molds, and his sense of exactitude craved a

support for every roll molding. Lisieux' choir, however, avoided what

was to become an excessive complication of parts in the Anglo-Norman

school. The cathedral is essentially vigorous and severe.

In 1226 a fire necessitated repairs, and Bishop Guillaume de

Pont-de-l'Arche took the opportunity to make three ambulatory chapels.

He built the façade towers whose lower walls retained Romanesque parts

of the XI century. When the southwest tower fell in 1553 it was replaced

by one of pre-Gothic design. The northwest belfry had as prototype the

famous one of St. Pierre at Caen. The axis chapel--longer than the

XIII-century one it replaced--is a gem of Flamboyant art. On its walls

are some small funereal bas-reliefs erected by the cathedral canons.

The builder of Lisieux' Lady chapel was Pierre Cauchon, president of the

tribunal that sentenced Jeanne d'Arc to death. He did not erect his

chapel, as some intimate, in expiation of his conduct at Rouen in 1431,

for he remained to the end the creature of his country's invaders. His

detestation of Jeanne, moreover, was a personal affair, since it had

been her triumph at Orléans, creating a national hope, that put heart

into the citizens of Beauvais to expel their pro-English bishop. The

English sent him to buy Jeanne from her captors. After the happenings in

St. Ouen's cemetery, by law Jeanne should have been passed into the

control of the Church, but Cauchon ordered her back to her English

prison, and when she again donned male attire, and again asserted that

she had heard her voices, her unscrupulous enemies were enabled to

accuse her of being a relapsed heretic and wanton, to start a new trial,

and condemn her to death. Cauchon himself hastened to the fortress to

witness Jeanne's "relapse," and with Lord Warwick he is said to have

chuckled over it--"This time she's well caught!" The morning that Jeanne

was led to her execution she faced Cauchon fearlessly: "Bishop, I die by

your hand. Had I been placed in the prisons of the Church, this would

never have happened. You have left me in the clutches of my enemies. I

call you before God, the great judge, to answer for the wrong you have

done me." Even as she so spoke a spirited statue now represents Jeanne

in Cauchon's Norman cathedral, while her judge is a condemned felon

before the bar of history.

Like Arnoul, builder of Lisieux' nave, Cauchon knew how to act a better

part. As rector of Paris University he had been esteemed for his

learning. But, coming to the parting of the ways, he chose the broad and

easy path, and the rest followed. His influence encouraged the

University of Paris in its pernicious betrayal of France after Henry V's

invasion. Cauchon won the see of Beauvais by defending Jean Sans Peur of

Burgundy, in 1407, when the latter had murdered his cousin, the Duke of

Orléans,[357] in the streets of Paris. And in the same hour that he thus

truckled for advancement, Jean Gerson, the chancellor of Paris

University, denounced the ducal crime--destined to be for France of

incalculable consequence--and had his house sacked by Burgundians.

Ten years later, at the Council of Constances, in Switzerland Cauchon

upheld the murderer, and Gerson rebuked the crime, whereupon he felt it

to be wiser to quit Constances in disguise and to pass his latter life

in retirement. Cauchon became the butcher of Jeanne d'Arc, his name

forever an infamy; Gerson, dying in poverty and defeat at Lyons, was

thought worthy, during two centuries, to be called the author of the

_Imitation of Christ_, and before he passed away in July, 1429, it was

given to him to learn that the Maid had triumphed at Orléans, and to

testify that her mission was of God: _Gratia Dei estensa est in hac

puella; a Domino factum est istud_.

Cauchon, ex-bishop of Beauvais, having placed his learning and energies

at the service of his country's invaders, ambitiously hoped to obtain

Rouen as his thirty pieces of silver, but the Duke of Bedford

compromised matters by bestowing on him the lesser see of Lisieux, in

1432. As the national cause prospered the traitor was more and more

detested by the populace. When the Burgundian partisans of the English

were expelled from Paris, the properties of the bishop of Lisieux in the

capital were seized and he himself was mobbed. In 1442 he fell dead

suddenly one day while his barber was shaving him. A few years later,

when Jeanne was rehabilitated and her judge excommunicated, the populace

broke open Cauchon's tomb in the cathedral and flung his bones into the

mire. His successor at Lisieux, Bishop Pasquier de Vaux, also one of

Jeanne's faithless judges, died alone, deserted, on the day that the

French army entered his city as victors, in 1449. The after history of

Lisieux Cathedral followed the same course as others in France; 1562 and

1793 wrecked its monuments and smashed its stained glass. In the

Flamboyant Gothic church of St. Jacques--where not a capital breaks the

ascending line--are some XVI-century windows, making it the first church

with such remaining.

Lisieux can boast of no bishop canonized by the Church, but her citizens

are doing all in their power to let Christendom know of the gentle

Norman girl, Thérèse Martin, the "Little Flower," who died in the odor

of sanctity (1897) in the Carmelite convent of the town, before she had

reached her twenty-fifth year. Her extraordinary cult, especially among

soldiers during the World War, proves that the thirst for sainthood is

as strong as ever in the peoples who went crusading and flung themselves

toward heaven in cathedrals. Art springs from emotions such as that felt

by Frenchmen for the "Little Flower." To ignore such manifestations, as

do the rationalists who still are insisting, as dogmatically as before

1914, that France, at root, is the land of Voltaire, is a willful

shutting of the eyes to the basic forces that make history.

Those good people of Lisieux who are mystic-minded, who _believe in

order that they may understand_, as Anselm taught at Bec near by, as

Plato taught in Greece, feel subconsciously that their "Little Flower,"

who said that only after her death would begin her real mission, is

atoning for Pierre Cauchon.[358]

THE CATHEDRAL OF ÉVREUX[359]

Il en coûte cher pour devenir la France. Nous nous plaignons, et

non sans droit, de nos épreuves et de nos mécomptes. Nos pères

n'ont pas vécu plus doucement que nous, ni recueilli plus tôt et à

meilleur marché les fruits de leurs travaux. Il y a dans le

spectacle de leurs destinées de quoi s'attrister et se fortifier à

la fois. L'histoire abat les prétentions impatientes et soutient

les longues espérances.--GUIZOT.

The cathedral of Évreux is not homogeneous like that of Lisieux, but,

gathering of different styles though it is, Romanesque, Gothic, early

and late, neo-classic, it possesses its own distinct personality. A

church of whose choir it has been said by one so competent to compare

the cathedrals of his native land as M. Louis Gonse, that it is "one of

the fairest bits of Gothic architecture in France," surely can hold its

own among more brilliant companions.

Two Romanesque edifices stood in succession on the site, not to speak of

the Merovingian and Carolingian cathedrals here. Évreux is the _Evora_

of Gallo-Roman times when it was ranked with Rouen and Tours. St.

Patrick came hither in 432 for his consecration as bishop before his

apostolate to Ireland. The first of the Romanesque cathedrals was

dedicated in 1072 by Archbishop Lanfranc of Canterbury, but in 1119,

when Henry I of England was besieging the city, it was destroyed for

strategic purposes, by consent of its bishop, who was in the king's

camp. Henry and all his barons gave generous compensation, we are told

by Ordericus Vitalis, the English monk who spent most of his life in the

Norman monastery of St. Évroult, "delighting in obedience and poverty,"

writing a history which is the chief XII-century record of the duchy.

The second Romanesque cathedral was begun in 1126. To it belonged the

pier arcade of the present nave and the entire westernmost bay, as well

as portions of the façade towers. At one time it was thought that the

arches adjacent to the transept were part of the earlier church blessed

by Lanfranc, inasmuch as they differ from the profiles of the other pier

arches. Further study has demonstrated, however, that the entire arcade

belongs to the XII century, since it was not the usage, before 1120, to

flank a pier's four faces by columns, as was done here throughout.

The second Romanesque cathedral of Évreux was also destined to be of

short duration. In 1194, Philippe-Auguste laid the city in ashes as

chastisement for John Lackland's black deed. John had allowed a French

garrison into Évreux during his intrigues with the French king, while

Richard the Lion-hearted was on his crusade. When word came that his

brother was returning to his possessions, John, hoping to placate him

for his own treachery, invited the French garrison of three hundred to a

feast and, it is said, foully murdered them all. The bishop of Évreux

had accompanied Richard Coeur-de-Lion to the East and in Cyprus had

crowned his bride, Berengaria of Navarre. In the course of time the

counts of Évreux became kings of Navarre, through the marriage of

Berengaria's sister to the Count of Champagne.[360] The niece of Richard

and John, Blanche of Castile, brought in her dowry Évreux to the French

Crown, when she married (1200) the son of that wily augmenter,

Philippe-Auguste.

The renewal of the cathedral as Gothic proceeded slowly. By 1230 the

nave had merely reached the triforium level. A horizontal sculptured

band, such as surmounts it, was not used after that date. The clearstory

of the nave is contemporary with the Sainte-Chapelle in Paris, and when

Louis IX came to his mother's dower city, in 1259, for the consecration

of its bishop, who was his personal friend, he and the group of

building-prelates with him, from Rheims, Rouen, Coutances, and Séez,

must have discussed the new works at Évreux with interest. The choir of

the cathedral was not undertaken till the close of the century. From

1298 to 1310 it was built in a Rayonnant style fully as advanced as the

later abbatial of St. Ouen, at Rouen, with glazed triforium, capitals

that are slight bands of foliage, and precocious prismatic profiles. The

only distinctly Norman trait is the balustrade of the triforium. As the

choir was made fifteen feet wider than the nave, its westernmost bay was

canted to join the transept, but the effect is not displeasing.

The Hundred Years' War caused a cessation of works at Évreux. Dire years

were they for the city ruled by Charles le Mauvais, a "demon of

France," "perfidy in person." He plotted ceaselessly against the

national party, not because he leaned to the English side, but that he

was obsessed by his own superior claims to the French crown, being by

both father and mother directly of St. Louis' line. His high

abilities--and he was learned, eloquent, and handsome--were wasted in

mischief making. In 1365 he gave up his city of Évreux to the flames.

Charles the Wicked is pictured in the cathedral's clearstory windows, in

the fourth on the north side of the choir, and across the sanctuary from

him, in another light, is his wife, a Valois, sister of the French king,

Charles V, and his art-loving brothers at Dijon, Angers, and Bourges.

She possessed Mantes by her dower right, and added to its collegiate

church the Rayonnant chapel of Navarre, in which are portrait statuettes

representing her daughters. Her four brothers, says M. Anthyme

Saint-Paul, were the paramount influences in the formation of French

Flamboyant Gothic, from 1365 to 1415.

The best array of XIV-century glass[361] in France is that of the choir

of Évreux. The windows are not forceful, like XIII-century

medallion-mosaics, any more than the Rayonnant stonework framing them

resembles hardy Apogee Gothic. The hues, while limpid and pleasing, show

none of the lovely half-tones which the Flamboyant-Renaissance day was

to achieve. Large plates of glass were employed in order that fewer

leads might darken the window. White was overused, as well as the

recently discovered yellow, called silver-stain, obtained by fusing the

surface of white glass with a solution of silver. Pot-metal glass--that

colored in the mass--had hitherto been used exclusively. Effective

backgrounds were obtained by damasked patterns. In each panel was a

single figure in an architectural setting of grisaille and

silver-stain, which frames grew so elaborate, by the middle of the

century, that perspective was represented.

The earliest example of a canopy type of window is in Évreux' upper

choir--the third light on the north side. It was the gift of the _grand

queux_, or cook, of France, Guillaume d'Harcourt, who died in 1327. The

two windows presented by the bishop of Évreux, Bernard Cariti (1376-83),

show progress in architectural backgrounds, and the donor is drawn from

life. In the canted bay of the choir (north) is a XV-century window of

the Saintes Maries, whose alleged relics were given to the bishop here

by good King René of Anjou. The window commemorates Normandy's newly

acquired freedom, hence its portraits of Charles VII, his son, the

future Louis XI, and the seneschal of Normandy, Pierre de Brézé. It is

also a memorial of the Great Schism of the West, ended by the Council of

Constance, at which the bishop of Évreux was present. Foliate designs

cover the grisaille lights of the triforium. The quarries (white,

parallel pieces of glass framed together in a lead pattern) are

enlivened by strips of colored glass and heraldic ornament.

Louis XI built the Lady chapel of Évreux, in whose windows he depicted

his coronation. In the lily-petals formed by the Flamboyant tracery of

the mullions are pictured the barons who attended the king's investing.

Instead of the single figures in each panel, hitherto popular, small

groups were now set under the vitrine canopies, and subjects heretofore

unknown in western iconography appeared, such as the Transfiguration,

the Woman of Samaria, the Marriage at Cana. They were pictured just as

the mystery plays of the day presented them on the stage. In the Tree of

Jesse, at the end of the chapel, the new process of abrasion was

employed, by which the color of flashed glass was ground away in places,

and on the white surfaces thus exposed were enameled new colors, so that

one piece of glass could exhibit a variety of hues. These windows of

Évreux' Lady chapel belong to the transition hour between the earlier

tradition that treated a window as an adjunct of the architecture, and

the later tradition that composed a window as an independent painted

picture.[362]

When, in 1441, Évreux opened its gates joyously to the national troops,

new works were begun in the cathedral. The actual Flamboyant transept

was substituted for a decrepit Romanesque structure, whose ground plan

it followed, hence it is too narrow for its height; seen from the

interior of the church, the octagonal lantern appears cramped. The

lacework stone spire of the crossing was one of the first in the region.

For sixty years during the XVI century two prelates of the prominent

Tillières family held the see; to Ambrose le Veneur is due the

superlatively ornate Flamboyant north front of the transept, an

unanswerable proof that if Gothic art was soon to end it was not of

inanition it expired. To put the northern flank of his church in accord

with the façade's festival of lace stone he re-dressed the chapels along

nave and choir. His nephew, Bishop Gabriel le Veneur, undertook to

remake the west frontispiece in a style so neo-classic that M. Léon

Palustre, the historian of the Renaissance, exclaimed, "_Pour cette fois

le moyen âge est bien fini!_" And yet only thirty years separated the

façades of uncle and nephew. The southwest tower has been left

uncrowned; that to the northwest is an imposing heavy mass in which is

the sonorous bell of Évreux, called Gros-Pierre.

THE CATHEDRAL OF SÉEZ[363]

Il y a plus d'une sorte de chevalerie, et les grands coups de lance

ne sont pas de rigueur. À défaut d'épée, nous avons la plume; à

défaut de plume, la parole; à défaut de parole, l'honneur de notre

vie.--LÉON GAUTIER, _La Chevalerie_.

"Prudent, modest, and gracious," reads the epitaph of Bishop Jean de

Bernières, who, having in large part built the choir of Séez Cathedral,

impressing on it his personal qualities, departed this life on Holy

Thursday of 1292. Séez has been called a little sister of Chartres. It

is well set, but of unpretentious dimensions. Its twin spire-crowned

western towers will be improved when the masses of masonry now propping

them are removed. The interior is white and clean, almost to prudery,

which may be due to the renewal of choir and transept in modern times.

Never from its inception have restorations ceased in this church. Not

that Séez overstepped the possibilities of Gothic equilibrium, but it

made incautious use of the calcined foundations of the Romanesque

cathedral to which it succeeded. That earlier church had been erected by

Bishop Yves de Bellême after two cathedrals had been wiped out by the

Norse invasions. Brigands had nested beside his church, and in seeking

to dislodge them he had set fire to his own sanctuary, for which act he

was rebuked by Leo IX at the Council of Rheims in 1049. He took as his

penance the replacing of the cathedral at his own expense, and since he

was connected with the rich Norman princes of Italy funds soon poured

in. The edifice he erected was destroyed in the unceasing petty wars

waged against each other by the husbands of Aliéner of Aquitaine.

The nave of the actual cathedral, the part first undertaken, rose from

1220 to 1240 under Bishop Gervais, a member of the Order of Prémontré.

After the pause of a generation, its upper vaulting was constructed. All

the traits loved by the Norman are here; friezes below triforium and

clearstory, balustrades, sharp twin lancets under equilateral arches,

multiple ridges and multiple supports, circular capitals and bases,

interior passageways contrived skillfully. Subdivision and

multiplication of parts reign supreme; merely for the pleasure it gave

his eye the Norman increased the molds of his archivolts. There are

diagonals here of so generous a profile that little vault-web shows. The

Norman was partial to shadow decoration. He covered his walls with holes

cut into foiled shapes which lent themselves to ever-changing contrasts

of light and shade. In each spandrel of the main arcade is cut an

elaborate rosette before which stands the shaft that mounts to the

vault-springing. No Ile-de-France architect had thus obstructed his

pierced ornament.

The choir of Séez was begun soon after the nave, but about 1270 was

entirely reconstructed as a Rayonnant vessel, designed audaciously to

weigh as little as possible on defective foundations. The sanctuary was

raised above the ambulatory, with no screen between. The capitals were

slight. Here again appeared a trait of Norman redundancy--rain-guards or

weather-drips over the main arches and the wall arcading; an

Ile-de-France master had relegated such crocketed gables where they

belong--to the exterior walls of a church.

Like Évreux, Séez Cathedral possesses a uniform array of XIV-century

glass. Above and below the canopied figures in the clearstory lights are

panels of grisaille. The triforium was among the first to become one

composition with the upper windows, by means of stone mullions; its

quarry designs are bordered with strips of colored glass. The transept,

built from 1290 to 1330, has in its side walls excellent images of the

prophets. Its roses are linked by mullions with the row of windows

below; the north rose traces a star with rays. In 1373 a fire damaged

the edifice, and its reconstruction continued through the foreign wars.

The Bishop of Séez, Robert de Rouvre, proved loyal to the national cause

and quitted his city for the wandering court of Charles VII, rather than

take oath to Henry V. This patriotic Norman prelate knew Jeanne d'Arc,

not at her trial at Rouen, but in her triumphal hour of the coronation

at Rheims.

The cathedral of Séez was twice pillaged during the religious wars. The

Huguenots tore the lead from the roofs, and piled the art treasures in

the aisles for bonfires. One doubly regrets the loss of the nave's

windows which would have completed the coherent scheme of color

decoration that distinguishes the church. Séez was neglected for

centuries, its decrepitude becoming such that the priests at its altars

were inconvenienced by wind and rain, and not so inconsequent, after

all, then seemed the interior weather-guards. The much criticized

restoration of M. Ruprich-Robert was a necessity, even though it may

have been too radical.

Of the six Norman cathedrals, that of Séez is the least known, yet it

lies but a few miles beyond Falaise, visited by most travelers in

Normandy. In the streets of the Conqueror's birthplace they still sing,

"_Vive le fils d'Ariette, Normans, vive le fils d'Arlette!_" A statue of

William faces the Trinité in which parish he was baptized (1027). The

XIII century built the Trinité's transept, the XVI century its choir

(beneath which passes a street), and the Renaissance appears in a porch

of faultless taste.[364] The donjon of the castle belongs to the XII

century, though the guides will point out a window whence Duke Robert

the Magnificent first beheld the maid Arlette.

THE CATHEDRAL OF BAYEUX[365]

Mais c'est toujours la France, ou petite ou plus grande

Le pays des beaux blés et des encadrements,

Le pays de la grappe et des ruisslements,

Le pays de genêts, de bruyère, de lande.

--CHARLES PÉGUY.

In the cathedrals of Rouen, Lisieux, and Évreux, the Norman traits are

subordinate to those of the Ile-de-France; at Séez all is Norman, and

altogether Norman, too, are Bayeux and Coutances, the gems of the

duchy's Gothic school. The cathedral of Bayeux stands on the site of one

burned in 1046. After that fire Bishop Hugues began a Romanesque

cathedral which was continued by his successor, Odo de Conteville, a

half brother of the Conqueror. The fair Arlette, the tanner's daughter

of Falaise, after the death of Duke Robert the Magnificent, was joined

in lawful wedlock with a Norman baron. Her son, Odo, without the

slightest vocation, was made a bishop at seventeen--precisely the feudal

debasing of the priesthood which Gregory VII was combating. At the

battle of Hastings, when he had blessed the troops, he sprang to his

charger and led the cavalry. A XII-century canon of Bayeux, Robert Wace,

in his rimed history of the Norman dukes, the _Roman de Rou_, tells how,

at Hastings, the Norman minstrel, Taillefer, "famed for song, mounted on

a charger strong, rode on before, awhile he sang of Roland and of

Charlemagne, Oliver and the vassals all, who fell in fight at

Roncevals."

As governor of Kent, Bishop Odo deepened, by his injustices, the hate of

the dispossessed Anglo-Saxons for their new masters. On an excursion

against Durham he so harried the countryside that it lay waste for a

hundred years. When to his misgovernment was added the folly of

grandeur--for this unbalanced feudal bully intrigued to wear the papal

tiara, to succeed to the great-hearted champion against iniquity,

Gregory VII--his brother, William, thought it best to shut him up. From

1047 to 1096 Odo held the see of Bayeux. The Romanesque cathedral which

he completed was blessed in the presence of William the Conqueror and

Matilda, in 1077, on which occasion the bishop presented to his church a

candelabrum such as can be seen at Hildersheim. Bayeux' crown of light

hung from the high vaults until wrecked by the Calvinists in 1562.

Of the cathedral built by this anomalous prelate very little remains.

The crypt is of his time, parts of the outer walls, and the body of the

west towers in their lower halls; their upper stories were re-dressed

later. The crypt was forgotten till 1412, when, in digging for a certain

bishop's tomb they unearthed it. Odo's cathedral was in part destroyed

in 1106 when Bayeux was besieged and burned by Henry I of England.

Another fire in 1160 made rebuilding imperative, and even before the

latter disaster Bishop Philippe d'Harcourt (1142-62) had begun a new

Romanesque church. To it belonged the core of the actual

transept-crossing's piers and the lower part of the nave, which is

considered the richest Romanesque[366] work extant. The flat wall above

the pier arcade is covered with geometric designs, interlacings, and

chevrons. The curious carved disks, in the spandrels of the arches,

represent Oriental animals and the grotesques that are to be found in

Celtic illuminations. Some have thought that the exotic sculptures of

Bayeux derived directly from an ivory coffer, of the IV-century Hegira,

brought home by crusaders for the treasury of their cathedral. Oriental

Byzantium was their common origin.

[Illustration: _The Choir of Bayeaux Cathedral (1210-1260). Typical of

Normandy's Elaborate Gothic_.]

The choir of Bayeux is a masterpiece of Norman Gothic erected by Robert

des Ablêges (1206-31), who died a crusader, and by the two successive

bishops. In the nave those prelates surmounted the Romanesque lower

walls with Gothic windows and vaulting; a balustrade marks the division

between the dissimilar parts. They reinforced the façade towers, and

made five western doorways--although the church behind possessed only

three aisles.

The student who would comprehend at a glance the difference between the

æsthetic equipoise of the Ile-de-France and the sumptuous Gothic of

Normandy can do nothing better than to place side by side the pictures

of Bayeux' choir and the curving transept end of Soissons. Those whose

taste has been formed by English minsters may prefer Bayeux, those whose

loiterings have made them familiar with the cradle-land of the national

art of France will find their ideal in the classic restraint of

Soissons. Scarcely a square foot of Bayeux' choir is unadorned. Each

spandrel is pierced by trefoils and quatrefoils, and at the apse the

triforium spandrels are entirely covered with foliage. There are acutely

pointed arches, and arches under arches. Mold has been added to mold,

and each roll molding has its own colonnette. There are carved friezes

at different levels, and the horizontal line is still further

accentuated by balustrades. At the sanctuary curve double pillars stand

one behind the other. Even the vault web is decorated with the portraits

of bishops. As the choir surmounts Odo de Conteville's crypt it is

raised above the procession path. Some of its side chapels open, one on

the other, above a dividing wall, as in the Gothic choir of the

Abbaye-aux-Hommes at Caen, an arrangement repeated with beautiful effect

at Coutances. At the birth of the apse are turrets; there are corner

towerettes with staircases on each of the western belfries.

The Norman façade, as a rule, is very plain, lacking rose window and

galleries, and with undeveloped portals. Two marked stories usually

divide it--that of the entranceway and the big window story over it.

Often the towers are disengaged awkwardly from the massive, nor is the

transition from shaft to pyramid accomplished with subtlety. Yet the

Norman church has great compensations to offer. Few edifices in the

classic region of the Oise, Seine, and Marne present a more complete

exterior than this chief church of Bayeux that stands so proudly over

the flat little city, unencumbered by houses, raised on a dignified

platform where the ground slopes to the east.

The cathedral's transept is Rayonnant Gothic of the XIV century, in

which day were added the various side chapels whose tracery is

geometric. When Jeanne d'Arc had given France a new soul, Bayeux raised

its lordly central tower "to praise God in the sky." It was undertaken

by a wealthy prelate, Louis d'Harcourt (d. 1479), of the same family as

the bishop who had built the Romanesque wall of the nave. He planted his

Flamboyant octagon on the square XIII-century lantern, but the actual

top story of the transept-crossing tower is modern. Bayeux almost lost

her notable beacon in the XIX century, when fissures appeared, and a

zealous restorer thought to demolish it whereas all that was needed was

consolidation. The ancient Romanesque piers at the four corners of the

_croisée_ were found incased in XIII-century masonry.

Opposite the cathedral in the town library is an invaluable historical

document, the Bayeux Tapestry,[367] the oldest extant large amount of

the art of design in the mediæval centuries. Many a vicissitude it has

had: lost from view till Montfaucon, the learned Benedictine of St.

Maur's reform, unearthed it in 1720, and again, during the Revolution's

disorders, used as covering for ammunition carts till an enlightened

citizen redeemed it. Originally it comprised one seamless piece, just

sufficient to encircle the nave of Bayeux Cathedral, for which,

indubitably, it was made. Every summer solstice, on the dedication day

of Odo's church, it adorned the cathedral, "the toilet of St. John," it

was named, a very simple toilet, for, though called a tapestry, it is

really a drab linen band twenty inches wide, two hundred and thirty feet

long, with the design alone worked in worsted of eight colors.

The scheme is the perjury of Harold and its punishment, hence its

suitableness as an embroidery for a church. It begins with Harold and

ends with his death at Hastings. His oath of allegiance to William,

given at Bayeux, is pictured. Odo is shown saving the Normans from

retreat at the battle of Hastings. Some have thought he would not have

dared to glorify himself till after the death of his brother, William.

The tapestry was made, probably, from 1067 to 1077, immediately

following the successful conquest of England, and is a contemporary,

therefore, of the _Chanson de Roland_, composed by a Norman anterior to

the First Crusade. The embroidery was done before 1085, since the

Conqueror's seals of that date show armor similar to that pictured in

the canvas; the sequence of the scenes indicates they are subsequent to

Wace's poem (c. 1160).

Critics have thought, from the inscriptions, that Anglo-Saxons made the

tapestry. It is known that the textile art flourished in Kent, the

province ruled by Odo; in Normandy, too, the industry was popular. M.

Levé, in the most recent monograph of this precious legacy from the

past, contends that a Norman who was favorable to William the Conqueror

made it, and that the popular attribution to Queen Matilda is not

unlikely. She may have had the work done as a gift for Bayeux Cathedral

while Odo was still in royal favor. The war-like bishop died as a

crusader journeying East, and lies buried in Palermo Cathedral. The

people despised Odo, and would openly mock as he passed, "Fie on the

bishop who married adulterous King Philip to adulterous Bertrada de

Montfort."

A century after Harold's oath to Duke William, in Bayeux, and in the

same hunting-seat, at Bures, near the city, occurred a scene of passion

whose consequences were momentous. Bishop Henri de Beaumont was at work

on the cathedral's transept and upper nave when Henry II came to Bayeux

to spend the Christmas season of 1170. For seven years western

Christendom had watched his feud with the exiled primate of Canterbury.

The lesser people of France and England considered that the prelate

defended their liberties by his defense of church liberty. For how, they

asked, can a churchman rebuke lay injustices if he owes his position to

the very culprits he should censure?

A pretense of reconciliation between Henry and his whilom intimate had

recently been brought about. Becket felt its hollowness, since none knew

better than he that the Angevin monarch's besetting sin was duplicity

and a merciless vindictiveness when his will was successfully crossed.

As he parted with the king he had looked steadily at him, saying, with

meaning: "I think I shall never see you again," and Henry Plantagenet

had cried, vehemently, "Do you take me for a traitor?" Soon after word

was brought to the king that Becket, newly arrived in England, was again

stirring up difficulties. Henry flew into one of his madman passions

hereditary in his blood from Fulk Nerra, from the Conqueror, too;

frenzied words broke from him, their purport being the upbraiding of his

followers that he lacked a friend to rid him of this upstart priest.

Immediately four of his courtiers started for England, and as December

of 1170 closed, Canterbury Cathedral was the scene of a bloody

assassination.

Becket dead was more formidable than Becket alive. Frightened by the

indignation roused by the murder, Henry conceded what the primate had

contended for. The Canterbury martyr became a frequent theme with the

mediæval artist. At Coutances, Chartres, Angers, and Sens are medallion

windows that relate his story. Twice he is honored in Bayeux Cathedral,

in the sculpture of the southern portal and in a window of the transept.

The popular voice of Europe canonized St. Thomas, and his grave at

Canterbury became the loadstone of an international pilgrimage. The

XIV-century poet has related how Merrie England rode down to Kent in the

first spring days, when that Aprille with his shoures sweet hath pierced

to the root the drought of Marche, and with the new-liveried year the

_wanderlust_ awakes:

Then longen folk to goon on pilgrimages ...

And specially, from every shires ende

Of Englelond, to Caunterbury they wende,

The holy blisful martir for to seke

That hem hath holpen, whan that they were seke.[368]

THE CATHEDRAL OF COUTANCES[369]

Art is the stammering of man driven from his terrestrial Paradise

but not yet arrived at the heavenly Paradise. Ever has he recalled,

ever will he recall, the lost beauty. He is fallen: beauty's

sanctuary is shut to him, but the exile traces a sketch of his

original home in the strange land where he finds himself. Does not

art fill in the intellectual life the same place that hope does in

the moral? Art is man's trial to embody his ideals, it is a

presentiment and a souvenir.--ERNEST HELLO, _Philosophie et

Athéisme_.

If the exterior aspect of Bayeux is admirable, that of Coutances

Cathedral is superb. The high hill of the town is its pedestal. Few

architectural views in France are finer than the silhouette of Coutances

against the sky. And when its crowning cathedral is seen rising from a

mist, it appears to ride the clouds like a mighty ship--a vision of

Norman energy as memorable as the Mount of the Archangel off this very

coast, in the bay of St. Michael.

How France Built Her Cathedrals: A Study in the Twelfth and Thirteenth Centuries · 第 12 / 16 章