Canoes, 317.
_Chaya_ and _yadoya_, distinction between, 37.
_Chayas_, or tea-houses, 36, 37.
Cheating a policeman, 152, 153.
Children, Japanese, docility of, 75.
Children’s parties, 68; names, 68, 69; games, amusing, 69; dignity and
self-possession, 69; etiquette, 69.
Chinamen in Yokohama, 15.
Chlorodyne, cures effected by, 93, 94, 250, 251.
Chôkaizan, snow mountain, 139, 148.
Christian converts, 202.
Cleanliness, want of, 94, 95.
Climate of Niigata, 119.
Clogs, 12.
“Cockle’s Pills,” 287.
_Coiffure_, 200.
Coolies, baggage, 126, 127.
Corrals, Yezo, 296.
Country, a pretty, 180.
Cow, riding a, 124.
Cows, cotton cloths on, for protection, 128.
Cremation, 325; building for the purpose, 327; mode of burning, 327.
* * * * *
DAIKOKU, the god of wealth, 104, 154.
_Daimiyô_, or feudal princes, 13 _et seq._
Dainichido, gardens of, 54.
Daiya river, the, 49, 51.
Dinner, Japanese etiquette at, 142.
Dirt and disease, 93–95.
Distinction between costume of moral and immoral women, 202.
Ditty, a dismal, 67.
Doctors, Japanese, prejudice against surgical operations, 141, 142.
Dogs, Japanese, 86; yellow, 237.
_Doma_, the, 37.
Dr. Palm and his tandem, 121.
Dress, female, 83, 84.
* * * * *
EARTHQUAKE, shocks of, 59; effect on priests, 59.
Eden, a garden of, 133.
_Élégante_, a Japanese, 31.
England unknown, 105.
Entrance to shrine of Seventh Shôgun, Shiba, Tôkiyô, 323.
Equipments, travelling, list of, 32, 33.
Etiquette, Japanese, 69.
Excess of males over females, 98.
Excursion, solitary, a, 203.
Expedition, an, entertaining account of, 328, _note_.
* * * * *
FAIR, perpetual, 23.
Farm-houses, 203, 204.
Female hand, tattooed, 260.
Ferry, a Japanese, 96.
Festival, the Tanabata, at Kuroishi, 198, 199; of the Bear, 275.
Fleas, consensus of opinion as to, 18.
Flowers, art of arranging, 70.
Flowers of Yezo, 227.
“Flowing Invocation,” the, 130, 131.
“Food Question,” the, 19.
Forgeries of European eatables and drinkables, 138.
“Front-horse,” a, 218, 228.
Funeral, a Shôgun’s, 54, 55; Buddhist, at Rokugo, 148; the coffin or box,
150; procession, 151.
Fujihari, 85; dirt and squalor at, 86; primitive Japanese dog in, 86;
fleas, 86.
Fujisan, first view of, 2; from a village on the Tôkaidô, 326.
_Fusuma_, or sliding paper panels, 38, 45.
Fyson, Mrs., and Ruth, 118, 119.
* * * * *
GAMES, children’s, 69, 195.
Gardens, Japanese, 118.
_Geishas_, or dancing-girls, 46.
Ginsainoma, Yezo, 216.
God-shelf, the, 72.
Gods, Aino household, 265.
Guide-books, Japanese, 71.
* * * * *
HACHIISHI, its doll street, 49; specialties of its shops, 49.
_Hai_, “yes,” 181.
Hair-dressing, 75, 76, 201.
HAKODATÉ, external aspect, 212; peculiar roofs, 213; junks, 320, 321.
Hakodaté harbour, 208.
Hepburn, Dr., 16, 17.
_Hibachi_, or brazier, 77.
Hinokiyama village, 176.
Hirakawa river, 191; destruction of bridge, 192.
Hirosaki, 202.
Home-life in Japan, 71.
Home occupations, 185.
Honoki, pass of, 125.
Hornets, 140.
Horobets village, 223, 296.
Horse, a wicked, 147.
Horse-ants, 140.
Horse-breaking, Japanese, 295, 307.
Horse-fights, 307.
Horses, treatment of, 164; in Yezo, 218; drove of, 226, 227.
Hotel expenses, 184.
Hot springs, 89, 290.
House, a pleasant, 51.
Houses, scenes in the, 74; hermetically sealed, 95; numbers in, 124.
Hozawa village, 106.
* * * * *
ICHIKAWA pass, 97; glorious view, 97; village, 97; waterfall, 97.
Ichinono hamlet, 127.
Idyll, a Japanese, 151.
Ikari, 90; the people at, 91.
Ikarigaseki, 191; detention at, 193–196; occupation, 193; kite-flying,
195; games, 195.
Imaichi, 48.
Inari, the god of rice-farmers, 93.
Infant prodigy, an, 166.
Iniwashiro lake, 99.
Innai, 143; Upper and Lower, malady at, 144; description of, 144, 145.
Insect pests at Niigata, 114.
Invocation, the flowing, 129–131.
Irimichi, 51; a “squeeze” at, 65; village of, 66; school at, 66, 67.
_Irori_, the 38.
Isshinden, temple gateway at, 311.
_Itama_, the, 37.
Ito, first impressions of, 17, 18, taking a “squeeze,” 65; personal
vanity, 78; ashamed, 86, 125; cleverness and intelligence, 87; a zealous
student, 87; intensely Japanese, 87; a Shintôist, 88; particularly
described, 161; excellent memory, 161; keeps a diary, 161;
characteristics, 162; prophecy, 162; patriotism, 162; an apt pupil, 163;
fairly honest, 164; surliness, 175; delinquency, 214; selfishness, 236;
smitten, 287; cruelty, 307; parting, 321.
Itosawa, 93.
Itoyasan precipices, 103.
Iwakisan plain, 197; snow mountain, 197.
Iyémitsu, temple of, at Nikkô, 58.
Iyéyasu’s tomb at Nikkô, 58.
* * * * *
JAPAN, first view of, 1; Chinamen in, 15; tiling in, 60; home-life in,
71; excess of males over females in the empire of, 98; freedom from
insult and incivility in, 101; barbarism and ignorance in, 107; winter
evenings in, 123; divorce in, 124; absence of mendicancy in, 127; convict
labour in, 137; drawbacks of travelling in, 140; firmness in travelling
necessary in, 155; police force in, and cost of, 160; blind men in, 175,
176; effect of sunshine in, 183; evening occupations in, 185; rain in,
187; cremation in, 325–327.
JAPANESE restaurant, portable, 4; paper-money, 7; man-cart, 9; railroad
and railway station, 10; railway cars, 11; in European dress, 11; clogs,
12; temple architecture, uniformity of, 21; temples, 21, 55, 58, 99, 151,
302, 303; lanterns, stone, 28; booths, 29, 30; temple grounds and archery
galleries, 29; _éléganté_, 31; passport, 33, 34; tattooing, 34; tea, 39;
threshing, varieties in, 44; inquisitiveness, 45; dancing-girls, 46;
idyll, 51; masonry, 58; wood-carving, 60; watering-place, 65; school, a
village, 66—punishments at, 67; children’s parties, 68; names, female,
68, 69; etiquette, 69; needle-work and garments, 69; circulating
libraries, 69, 70; games, children’s, 69, 195; children’s names, 69;
caligraphy, 70; guide-books, 71; recreations, 71; lamp, 73; shops,
articles sold in, 73, 74; parental love, 75; hair-dressing, 75, 76, 201;
children, docility of, 75; barbers’ shops, 77; bargaining, 77; money,
current, 79; female dress, 83, 84; dog, primitive, 86; rivers, change of
names of, 90; ferry, 96; policemen, 100—vigilance of, 197, 198; mountain
scenery, 103; gardens, 118; doctors, 121; dirt and barbarism, 123;
houses, tables outside of, 124—numbers in, 124; baggage coolies, 126,
127; cows, 128; criticism on a foreign usage, 128; pack-horse, 132;
doctors and rheumatism, 135, 136—their prejudice against surgical
operations, 141, 142; gentleman, agreeable, 137; convicts, 137; love of
foreign intoxicants, 138; doctor, 141;—his treatment and fee, 141;
etiquette at dinner, 142; men and women, costume of, 143; crowd,
curiosity of, 146; treatment of the dead, 149; silk factory, 159; horses,
treatment of, 164, 218; belief as to their descent, 165; visitors, 165;
infant prodigy, 166; marriage, 166, 167; trousseau, 167; furniture, 167;
marriage ceremony, 167, 169; holiday scene, 170; festivals, 171, 198,
199, 275; gods and demons, 172; village forge, 173; travelling, fatigues
of, of, 175—ludicrous incidents of, 182; boats, 178; kindness, 181;
conversation, effect of, 185; home occupations, 185; devotions, 186;
children, 193, 194; kite flying and games, 195; toilet, a lady’s, 200;
_coiffure_, 200; hair-dressing, 200, 201; female barber, 200; lady’s
mirror, 201; farm-houses, 203, 204; bath-houses, politeness in, 205, 218;
imitations of foreign manufactured British goods, 218; horse-breaking,
295, 307; road-post, 301; Paradise, 309; canoes, 317; junks, 320, 321.
Jin-ri-ki-shas, 4, 5 (see _Kuruma_).
_Jishindo_, or “earthquake door,” 304.
Junks, 320.
“John Chinaman,” 15, 16.
Journey, an experimental, on horseback, 62.
Juvenile belle and her costume, a, 68.
* * * * *
_Kaimiyô_, or posthumous name, 130, 149.
Kaitakushi saddle-horse, 218.
Kajikawa river, 120.
_Kakemonos_, or wall-pictures, 46, 52.
_Kak’ké_, a Japanese disease, 144, 145.
_Kamidana_, the, or god-shelf, 72.
Kaminoyama, 134; hot springs, 135; the belle of, 135; _yadoya_, 136;
_kura_, or godown, 136.
Kanaya, 50; his house, 51, 52; floral decorations, 52; table equipments,
53.
Kanayama, 140.
Kasayanagê, farming village, 120.
_Kashitsukeya_, disreputable houses, 46.
Kasukabé, 39; the _yadoya_, 39; lack of privacy, 40; a night alarm, 41.
Katakado hamlet, 102.
Kawaguchi village, 122, 181.
Kayashima, 93; discomfort, 93; a boy cured, 94; a diseased crowd, 94;
habits and food of the natives, 94; houses hermetically sealed, 95.
_Kenrei_, or provincial governor, 115.
_Kimono_, the, or gown for both sexes, 43 _et seq._
Kinugawa river, 84, 89; beauty of scenery on its banks, 89.
Kiri Furi, the falls of, 54.
Kiriishi hamlet, 177.
Kisagoi, a poor place, 82.
Kisaki, 120.
Kite competition, 195.
_Kôchô_, or chief man of the village, 143.
Kohiaku, mountain farm of, 81.
Komatsu, 131; spacious room and luxurious appointments, 131; frogs, 132;
runaway pack-horse, 132.
Komoni-taki volcano, 216.
Kotsunagi, 177.
Kubota, 155; brisk trade, 156; suburban residences, 156; hospital,
157–158; public buildings, 158; Normal School, 158; silk factory, 159;
police escort, 159; afternoon visitors, 165; infant prodigy, 166;
Japanese wedding, 167–169.
_Kura_, or fire-proof storehouse, 53.
Kuroishi, 198; festival at, 198, 199.
Kurokawa, 121; _matsuri_ at, 122.
Kurosawa, poverty and dulness, 123; dirt and barbarism, 125.
_Kuruma_, the, or jin-ri-ki-sha, 4, 5, 35 _et seq._
Kuruma pass, 103.
_Kuruma_-runners, costume of, 34.
Kurumatogé, 92; inn on the hill, 103; bone extracted, 104; hostess, 104;
the road from, infamous, 106; pass, 106.
Kusamoto, Mr., 325, 326.
KWAN-NON, temple of, at Asakusa, 21; perpetual fair, 23; the _Ni-ô_, 24;
votive offerings, 25; the high altar, 25; prayers and pellets, 26;
Binzuru, the medicine god, 26, 27; _Amainu_, or heavenly dogs, 27; stone
lanterns, 28; revolving shrine, 28; temple grounds and archery galleries,
29; booths, 29, 30.
* * * * *
LAGOON, curious, 172.
Lake of Blood, the, 131.
Lamp, Japanese, 73.
Land Transport Company, or _Riku-un-kaisha_, 79.
Lanterns, stone, 28.
Lebungé, 310; its isolation, 312; Ainos; 312, 313.
Lebungétogé passes, 308.
Legation, the British, at Yedo, 13.
Libraries, circulating, 69, 70.
Ludicrous incident, a, 152.
* * * * *
_Mago_, the, or leader of a pack-horse, 62, 84.
Maladies, repulsive, prevalence of, 76.
Man-carts, two-wheeled, 8, 9.
Mari, farming-village, 120.
_Maro_, or loin-cloth, 46.
Marriage, a Japanese, 166, 167; trousseau and furniture, 167; ceremony,
167, 169.
Masonry, Japanese, 58.
Matsuhara village, mistake at, 129.
Matsuka river, 133.
_Matsuri_ at Minato, 171; classic dance, 171; cars, 171.
Medicine god, the, at Asakusa, 26, 27.
Mihashi, or Sacred Bridge, 50.
_Mikoshi_, or sacred car, 24.
Millet-mill and pestle, 238.
Minato, the junk port of Kubota, 170; _matsuri_ at, 170, 171; sobriety
and order, 171.
Mirror, a lady’s, 201.
“MISSING LINK,” the, 314.
Miyojintaké, snow-fields and ravines, 103.
Mogami river, 139.
Mombets, 286; scenes at, 286.
Money, 7; current, 79.
Mono, farming village, 120.
Moore, Captain, 322.
Moral lesson, a, 36.
Mori village, 317, 318, 220.
Morioka village, 173.
Mororan, 221; bay, 222.
Mororan, Old, 297, 298.
Mountain scenery, 103.
Mud-flat or swamp of Yedo, 36.
My _kuruma_-runner, 305.
Myself in a straw rain-cloak, 176.
* * * * *
NAKAJO, Japanese doctors at, 121.
Nakano, Lower, 205; bath-houses, 205.
Nakano, Upper, 204, 205.
Names, female, 68, 69.
Namioka, 207.
Nanai, Yezo, 218.
Nantaizan mountains, 49.
Needle-work, Japanese, 69.
Night-alarm, a, 41.
NIIGATA, landward side disappointing, 111; Church Mission House, 111,
112; itinerary of route from Nikkô to, 113; a Treaty Port, 114; insect
pests, 114; without foreign trade, 114; its river, 114, 115; population,
115; hospital and schools, 115; gardens, 116; beautiful tea-houses, 116;
cleanliness, 116; water-ways, 116; houses, 117, 118; climate, 119; to
Aomori, itinerary of route from, 210, 211.
Nikkôsan mountains, the, 80.
NIKKÔ, “sunny splendour,” 54; its beauties, 54; the Red Bridge, 55; the
Yomei Gate, 56; the mythical _Kirin_, 56; the _haiden_ or chapel, 57; the
Shôgun’s room, 57; the Abbot’s room, 57; the great staircase, 57;
Iyéyasu’s tomb, 58; temples of Iyémetsu, 58; gigantic _Ni-ô_, 58; Buddha,
59; the Tennô, 59; wood-carving, 60, 61; shops, 73, 74; houses, 75; to
Niigata, itinerary of route from, 113.
_Ni-ô_, the, at Asakusa, 24.
Nocturnal disturbance, a, 179.
Nojiri village, 103, 104.
Nopkobets river, 306.
Nosoki, Dr., 141; lotion and febrifuge, 141; old-fashioned practitioner,
142; at dinner, 142.
Nosoki village, 143.
Nozawa town, 103.
Numa hamlet, 123; crowded dwellings, 124.
* * * * *