NO! Nature has no discords. This morning, to the far horizon,
diamond-flashing blue water shimmered in perfect peace, outlined by a
line of surf which broke lazily on a beach scarcely less snowy than
itself. The deep, perfect blue of the sky was only broken by a few
radiant white clouds, whose shadows trailed slowly over the plain on
whose broad bosom a thousand corollas, in the glory of their brief but
passionate life, were drinking in the sunshine, wavy ranges slept in
depths of indigo, and higher hills beyond were painted in faint blue on
the dreamy sky. Even the few grey houses of Yubets were spiritualised
into harmony by a faint blue veil which was not a mist, and the loud
croak of the loquacious and impertinent crows had a cheeriness about it,
a hearty mockery, which I liked.
Above all, I had a horse so good that he was always trying to run away,
and galloped so lightly over the flowery grass that I rode the seventeen
miles here with great enjoyment. Truly a good horse, good ground to
gallop on, and sunshine, make up the sum of enjoyable travelling. The
discord in the general harmony was produced by the sight of the Ainos, a
harmless people without the instinct of progress, descending to that vast
tomb of conquered and unknown races which has opened to receive so many
before them. A mounted policeman started with us from Yubets, and rode
the whole way here, keeping exactly to my pace, but never speaking a
word. We forded one broad, deep river, and crossed another, partly by
fording and partly in a scow, after which the track left the level, and,
after passing through reedy grass as high as the horse’s ears, went for
some miles up and down hill, through woods composed entirely of the
_Ailanthus glandulosus_, with leaves much riddled by the mountain
silk-worm, and a ferny undergrowth of the familiar _Pteris aquilina_.
The deep shade and glancing lights of this open copsewood were very
pleasant; and as the horse tripped gaily up and down the little hills,
and the sea murmur mingled with the rustle of the breeze, and a glint of
white surf sometimes flashed through the greenery, and dragonflies and
butterflies in suits of crimson and black velvet crossed the path
continually like “living flashes” of light, I was reminded somewhat,
though faintly, of windward Hawaii. We emerged upon an Aino hut and a
beautiful placid river, and two Ainos ferried the four people and horses
across in a scow, the third wading to guide the boat. They wore no
clothing, but only one was hairy. They were superb-looking men, gentle,
and extremely courteous, handing me in and out of the boat, and holding
the stirrup while I mounted, with much natural grace. On leaving they
extended their arms and waved their hands inwards twice, stroking their
grand beards afterwards, which is their usual salutation. A short
distance over shingle brought us to this Japanese village of sixty-three
houses, a colonisation settlement, mainly of _samurai_ from the province
of Sendai, who are raising very fine crops on the sandy soil. The
mountains, twelve miles in the interior, have a large Aino population,
and a few Ainos live near this village and are held in great contempt by
its inhabitants. My room is on the village street, and, as it is too
warm to close the _shôji_, the aborigines stand looking in at the lattice
hour after hour.
A short time ago Mr. Von Siebold and Count Diesbach galloped up on their
return from Biratori, the Aino village to which I am going; and Count D.,
throwing himself from his horse, rushed up to me with the exclamation,
_Les puces_! _les puces_! They have brought down with them the chief,
Benri, a superb but dissipated-looking savage. Mr. Von Siebold called on
me this evening, and I envied him his fresh, clean clothing as much as he
envied me my stretcher and mosquito-net. They have suffered terribly
from fleas, mosquitoes, and general discomfort, and are much exhausted;
but Mr. Von S. thinks that, in spite of all, a visit to the mountain
Ainos is worth a long journey. As I expected, they have completely
failed in their explorations, and have been deserted by Lieutenant
Kreitner. I asked Mr. Von S. to speak to Ito in Japanese about the
importance of being kind and courteous to the Ainos whose hospitality I
shall receive; and Ito is very indignant at this. “Treat Ainos
politely!” he says; “they’re just dogs, not men;” and since he has
regaled me with all the scandal concerning them which he has been able to
rake together in the village.
We have to take not only food for both Ito and myself, but cooking
utensils. I have been introduced to Benri, the chief; and, though he
does not return for a day or two, he will send a message along with us
which will ensure me hospitality.