Nothing so largely contributed to the peculiar character of Spartan
society as the uniform custom of taking the principal meal at a public
table. It conduced to four objects: the precise status of aristocracy,
since each table was formed according to title and rank,--equality
among aristocrats, since each at the same table was held the equal of
the other--military union, for as they feasted so they fought, being
formed into divisions in the field according as they messed together
at home; and lastly, that sort of fellowship in public opinion
which intimate association amongst those of the same rank and habit
naturally occasions. These tables in Sparta were supplied by private
contributions; each head of a family was obliged to send a certain
portion at his own cost, and according to the number of his children.
If his fortune did not allow him to do this, he was excluded from the
public tables. Hence a certain fortune was indispensable to the pure
Spartan, and this was one reason why it was permitted to expose
infants, if the family threatened to be too large for the father's
means. The general arrangements were divided into syssitia, according,
perhaps, to the number of families, and correspondent to the divisions
or obes acknowledged by the State. But these larger sections were
again subdivided into companies or clubs of fifteen, vacancies being
filled up by ballot; but one vote could exclude. And since, as we have
said, the companies were marshalled in the field according to their
association at the table, it is clear that fathers of grave years and
of high station (station in Sparta increased with years) could not
have belonged to the same table as the young men, their sons. Their
boys under a certain age they took to their own pheiditia, where the
children sat upon a lower bench, and partook of the simplest dishes
of the fare. Though the cheer at these public tables was habitually
plain, yet upon occasion it was enriched by presents to the
after-course, of game and fruit.
Lysander was received by his old comrade with that cordiality in which
was mingled for the first time a certain manly respect, due to feats
in battle, and so flattering to the young.
The prayer to the Gods, correspondent to the modern grace, and the
pious libations being concluded, the attendant Helots served the black
broth, and the party fell to, with the appetite produced by hardy
exercise and mountain air.
"What do the allies say to the black broth?" asked a young Spartan.
"They do not comprehend its merits," answered Lysander.