In the Evidence, the word hosiery is used improperly to include
the large class of woollen articles knitted by the Shetland women.
The fineness of the wool of the Shetland sheep probably gave a
very early impulse to this industry. It is recorded that in the
seventeenth century a great fair for the sale of hosiery, properly so
called, was held each year, on the occasion of the visit of the
Dutch fishing fleet to Bressay Sound. The Rev. Mr. Brand says:
'The Hollanders also repair to these isles in June, as hath been said,
for their herring fishing; but they cannot be said so properly to
trade with the countrey as to fish upon their coasts, and they use to
bring all sorts of provisions necessary with them, save some fresh
victuals, as sheep, lambs, hens, etc., which they buy on shore.
Stockins also are brought by the countrey people from all quarters
to Lerwick, and sold to these fishers; for sometimes many
thousands of them will be ashore at one time, and ordinary it is
with them to buy stockins to themselves; and some likewise do
so to their wives and children, which is very beneficial to the
inhabitants, for so money is brought into the country there is a
vent for the wooll, and the poor are employed. Stockins also are
brought from Orkney, and sold there, whereby some gain accrues
to the retailers, who wait the coming of the Dutch fleet for a
market.' [Brand's <Shetland>, p. 132.]
The 'Truck system' was even then in operation, for Mr. Brand
says:
'These (Hamburg and Bremen)merchants seek nothing better in
exchange for their commodities than to truck with the countrey for
their fishes, which when the fishers engage to, the merchants will
give them either money or ware, which they please.'-p. 131.
The finer articles, now known as Shetland shawls, veils, etc., were
not manufactured till a much more recent date. Dr. Edmonstone
speaks of stockings as if they were the only product of the
Shetland knitter's industry; * and stockings and gloves are the only
articles of woollen manufacture specified as made in Shetland by
the writers of the Statistical Account in 1841 [Stat. Acc. 16, 47].
Originally the trade was entirely carried on by persons knitting
the wool grown by their own flocks, or procured from their
neighbours; and they bartered the articles so made to merchants in
Lerwick or elsewhere for goods of every kind. Transactions of this
kind, which are still common, do not fall within the provisions of
the existing Truck Acts, which apply only to the payment of
wages, and not to sales. Mr. Arthur Laurenson, the head of the
oldest house in this business, says:
* <View, etc.>, vol ii p. 1 (Edinr. 1809)
'It is only within the last twenty or thirty years that the women
have been employed, so to speak, by the merchants. It was about
1840 or 1841 that the making of shawls began to get very common
here; and about 1845 or 1846 there was a very great demand for
them. After that the veil knitting commenced, about 1848 or 1849,
and from 1852 to 1856 there was a very great trade done in veils.'