FIDDLES AND DRUMS

For you and I are past our dancing days.—Romeo and Juliet.

Having had charge of the Hopi for a longer period than any other

official of the United States Government,—eight years and two months,

to be exact,—I venture to picture them and their empire. To have

visited and counseled with them, to have wrangled with them, to have

traveled long distances in all sorts of weather because of their

childish factional quarrels; to have arrested and judged and

disciplined them; even married them,—if that may be separately

classed,—to have cared for them in severe illnesses and advised in

times of stress; to have ransomed them from enemies; to have espoused

their uninteresting cause in the face of Departmental opposition; and

when their meagre business of living was over to have buried them—well,

this ought to embrace an angle of vision.

Yet, I hesitate. Reflection cautions me that this may be presumption;

for, after all, what do I know of the Hopi Indians?

During those eight long years I met on the reservation thousands of

visitors—students and their mentors; painters and etchers and sculptors

of distinction, and those who thought they were; photographers and

lens-artists; ethnologists, philologists, and sociologists; ballyhoo

men from Eastern department-stores and half-wits taking an outing;

journalists and authors and publishers; geologists and common

“water-witches”; motion-picture men and others wearing puttees; actors

and lecturers; composers, musicians, and vocalists; museum scouts and

“scratchers”; clergymen and soldiers; Oxford men, Harvard men, men from

Bonn; retired statesmen and unretiring politicians; representatives of

foreign governments; persons from the far-famed city of New York;

tourists, and caparisoned dudes, and simple guides; plain gentlemen and

plainer roughnecks.

Some of them sought me out courteously to explain their missions, some

of them just happened to see me en passant, and a few earnestly avoided

me. The permit system was very irksome to those who did not have a good

excuse. And I listened to many theories concerning the Hopi and their

curious customs, and I made a brave effort to answer in some pleasant

manner ten thousand questions. Finally, I prepared a plea in

avoidance:—

“Don’t ask me. I have lived here only six years. Ask the chap camped

now at the trader’s post—he came last week.”

I plagiarized this method from a brother superintendent who knew much

of the Navajo and their rare designs in weaving.

“Now, my dear Mr. Shelton,” the tourist would ask hopefully, “Doesn’t

that sign indicate the rabbit-foot following the lightning?”

“Make up your own story,” he would gravely reply, “and then you won’t

forget it.”

So with Hopi secrets. The little of their history that is known I have

already related. The rest is speculation. The believed facts of their

ethnology may be had in Smithsonian Reports, moisture proof,

dessicated. The bones of their ceremonies have been diagrammed and

painted, their chants recorded in scaled notebooks, their odd

ceremonial objects looted and catalogued. Sentimental word-pictures one

can procure from those journalists who flitted rapidly in and out

seeking impressions, and who never failed to get them.

But I am not one whit more ignorant than any other white man. Despite

reams of theories, no one has learned anything of Hopi lore that the

Hopi did not want him to know. “Make up your own story, and you won’t

forget it.” When certain Christianized worthies of the tribe have

pretended to expose their knowledge, I have paid little attention,

since I knew the mental calibre of such fellows before conversion, and

the depth of their gray matter was never impressive. The last who gave

evidence proceeded well in his story until, with a foreign fervor, he

began to lie about the Oraibi happenings within my own time, and as I

had taken his testimony under oath in Hopi trials, I knew just how many

Bibles to trust him on.

Moreover, being the recognized Moungwi or Chief of the Hopi, and having

some instinctive conception of the manner in which an alien and

suspicious people should be governed, I respected their privacy and

reticence, to gain and hold their own respect. One cannot play with an

Indian in the morning, and expect to summon him to judgment after noon.

The poorest stick of an Indian Agent I have seen is he whom Indians

address by his first name, or familiarly without a title. When one

lowers himself to an alien’s social level, he seldom achieves more than

the privilege of dipping his food out of the same dish. It was my job

to manage all things for their best interests, against their strenuous

efforts otherwise if that were necessary—as it often was; and I hoped

to restore to them a confidence in white men, whereas they had come to

believe that all white men were a mixture of abnormal curiosity and

treachery, coupled with an astounding rudeness.

As for their psychology, no itinerant will ever grasp the subtlety of

these people. It is something elemental and therefore indescribable.

Those who have lived among Asiatics will know what I mean. Fatalists,

they are as patient and immutable as the Pleiades. Much of this is

vanishing with the elders as they wend their ways from the mesa stages

to the Great Place of Ceremonies that Youkeoma has told me of. The

pastoral peace and solemnity of the desert shrines is passing before

the roar of motors and the harangues of “dude wranglers.”

Now I remember a curious red-haired visitor who came into the Agency

one drowsy afternoon, herding a squad of burros. He looked a figure

from a Conrad novel, and would have graced any one of them. His animals

were packed with matting hampers having an Oriental touch. His flaming

head was bare to the summer sun, his worn and rusty boots of cordovan

preceded war-time styles and spoke of long journeys. The seat was

absent from his trousers. An astonishing man.

His first question of me was: “Who is the new French Premier?”

It just happened that I could tell him. He handed me his credentials,

and I found that this dilapidated tramp represented the French

Government in his wanderings after strange cacti and other plant life.

He strewed the contents of his hampers over my quarters and forgot to

sort the wreckage for a week. Meantime—in my bath—he was analyzing Hopi

corn and rare Indian dyes.

And he related to me strange things. He had been to Lhasa with the

Younghusband expedition. He said that the Hopi were duplicates of the

Tibetans, and that he believed the languages contained similarities.

That fellow knew how to reach the heart of a secretive people. He had

procured seventeen distinct varieties of Hopi corn, and other seed, as

well as old dye-formulæ and samples of ceremonial cotton.

“Zey call me, ze man wi’ ze burros,” he said, naïvely.

You see, he had walked in on their level, prodding his patient beasts,

covered with the desert dust, a wondrous simplicity on his face. He had

touched the Hopi heart. He could have told one things of the Hopi

people—but the opening guns of the Great War summoned him away to die

at Verdun.

Know ye the trail that the Salt bands go?

Close by the Rock where they carved their names?

Know ye the hills of the Navajo

And the barren sands that the Hopi claims?

Dim in the cañons of the dead,

Where the towns are dust and the last scalp dried,

Their swords are rust, and the desert crow

Scarce can tell where the Spaniard died.

Slain at Zuni and Cañon de Chelly, [2]

By the Mesa Black and at Santa Fe;

One of them killed by a Pecos clown,

One of them dropped by Walpi town.

—Song of the Spanish Bell

The Hopi live in northern Arizona, surrounded by the reservations of

the Navajo. They speak a Shoshonian dialect, and are often miscalled

Moqui. The Department for forty years libeled them under this misnomer.

Moqui is a Hopi term, and has been used against them by Navajo to

signify anything inert, unpleasant, cowardly, dead. The dignified

Navajo has another distinct title for the Hopi, and uses it when filled

with courtesy. Moqui is probably a Keresan word originally, since it is

found as “motsi” in Cochiti and San Felipe pueblos of the Rio Grande,

whose warriors and rebels fled to the Hopi country for sanctuary after

the rebellion of 1680.

Near the centre of that huge space on the Arizona map marked “Moqui

Reserve” are the Hopi towns. These were known to the Spanish

conquistadores as the Seven Cities of Tusayan. There are now nine

pueblos.

In that early hour of geologic time when the receding waters carved the

great gorges in the face of northern Arizona, the more resistant

sandstones and clays and coals were left as shattered cliffs, and from

these reach out many bony headlands—long fingers, at the crumbling tips

of which, like villages clinging to a rocky coast, are the eyries of

the Hopi. Below them, as sea-floors, are the sandy valleys and drifting

dunes of the Painted Desert.

These nine little towns are set oddly in groups of three, and so are

the Hopi divided, quite as into three distinct provinces. Three are

balanced on the narrow backbone of the First Mesa, a knife-like

projection that rises hundreds of feet above the valley, and is at one

place not more than twenty feet in width. These are old Walpi, beloved

of etchers, and Tewa of the warriors, and Sitchumnovi. Three are built

on the broad mounds of the Second Mesa, known as Machongnovi,

Chepaulovi, and Chimopovi. And perhaps the oldest and certainly the

youngest of the villages are at Third Mesa—Oraibi, the aged; and tiny

Bacabi; and redolent, sullen Hotevilla.

Their first contact with white men was made in the dark of an autumn

night in 1540, but it was in the next dawn that they realized invasion

by a new and strange enemy. Most of Hopi history has the dawn

atmosphere. Their footprints lead back to the caves of the Dawn Men.

Their homes face the rising sun from the highest point of the

landscape; their ceremonies and hunts begin at sunrise. They are a

dawn-loving people.

Contact with the Spaniards was broken by the revolt of 1680, and

completely ceased with 1700; but the gifts of the enemy remained in

fruits, and wool, and beasts of burden, and perhaps some loot of swords

and Church vessels hidden to this day. The obstinate Hopi were not

worth the effort at reconquest, and later the Mexican Government did

not bother them. For more than one hundred and fifty years the Hopi

knew only the Navajo and Apache and Ute as his enemies. With the close

of the Mexican War and the treaty of 1848, this nearly forgotten tribe

came under the nominal guardianship of the United States. I say

nominal, for their first Agent was located in far-distant Santa Fe, and

unlike the Spanish, he had no missioners to risk martyrdom for the

spreading of his doctrine. In 1849 he accompanied an expedition against

the Navajo, and reached Cañon de Chelly, about sixty miles from the

First Mesa. One year later a delegation of Hopi visited this chief to

petition for protection against the Navajo. I fancy them plodding

afoot, behind their burros, timidly crossing the Navajo country to pass

through the provinces of their kinsmen, the Pueblos, and on to the City

of the Holy Faith. In that same year, 1850, their Agent was prevented

from visiting them, as he wished, because he lacked an escort of

troops.

Many estimates of the Hopi population were made in the early years. The

Spaniard was an expert at overestimating for the benefit of distant

kings. His thousands were always given as tens of thousands, and when

he wanted money and help toward new colonies he stressed the saving of

souls and could easily imagine millions of baptisms. But it is recorded

in 1780 that smallpox had reduced the Hopi to less than 800. In 1899

their first resident Agent stopped guessing and made a count. He found

and listed 1832 Hopi. In one hundred and nineteen years the population

had little more than doubled. In 1912 there were 2068 on the Reserve,

and in the next seven years they gained 217, or 31 per year—15 per

thousand annually. They lost nearly sixty per cent of this seven-years’

gain in 1918, the year of Spanish influenza. In 1919 there were 2158

Hopi on the Reserve, and adding the absent, who had increased and

multiplied in the west, at Moencopi, there were less than 2500 of these

Indians alive. But this handful has interested more distinguished men

and women than have many greater nations.

While there is much of Hebraic resemblance in the Navajo Indians,—their

pastoral life and their religious customs,—a matter that strikes every

thinking visitor and student, there is more of this in Hopi history.

Their retreat southward from the cavern villages, from Betatakin Cave,

from the Swallows’ Nest and Scaffold House—stopping to build a hamlet

here and to reap a harvest there, leaving always testimony in potsherds

and corn refuse—to their present cliffs, was much the same as the

migrations of the Jews. Perhaps, having lost one citadel, they moved on

to the next best position for defense; or perhaps a remnant of a

once-powerful tribe fled; for we do not clearly know whether these

cliff-dwellers migrated from choice, or to escape pestilence, or to

avoid captivity. Across the relatively narrow territory of their hegira

the Navajo and Apache—the once-combined “Apaches du Navaju”—and perhaps

the Ute fought and harried, the Hopi quite as helpless as Judæa between

Egypt and Babylonia. When they retired finally to such a place as old

Walpi, to barricade the narrow causeway at the mesa-end and to defend

the Walpi stairway, just wide enough for one enemy at a time, surely

this was a desperate people making a last desperate stand. I have no

doubt that the Hopi, peaceful as they have been and are named, fought

some worthy fights before the white man was known on this continent.

The determination that wore down the Spaniard must have had its martial

quality when facing enemies armed no better than themselves. It

required a brave war-party to attempt to storm those mesa strongholds.

And their foes must have stood somewhat in awe too of Hopi

incantations, made so impressive by their Snake legends and solemn

mummery. The Snake gods protected them more than once, according to

their priests, and are remembered in the ceremonies.

And the resemblance is not only in fanciful surmises. The daily life of

the people duplicates in many ways the customs of the Judæans. A people

of legends and portents. In the quiet nights they have watched those

burning signals of the heavens that mark wars and the birth of kings.

Perhaps their shepherds too have been summoned by such signs, inspiring

them to missions and pilgrimages, bearing gifts, relating to that

mythical Bohanna who will one day come to redeem and revivify the

people. From the great chart of the heavens they take their calendar.

And certainly, in the sunsets of that quiet and ever-tinted land their

pueblos reflect the Old East, with its donkeys and goat-bells, and

simple gardens by the springs, and the blurring dust of sheep in the

half-tones of desert twilights.

Government reports of to-day give the unqualified fact (?) that the

Hopi have a reservation of 3863 square miles, large enough, in all

sense, for twenty-five hundred people! But the Hopi exist on and use

less than one fifth of this semi-arid land, the remainder being held

and dominated by their old plague, the Navajo. The Hopi Indian Agent

has absolute jurisdiction—on paper—over all those Navajo living within

the boundaries of the Hopi Reserve; but this does not mean that he is

or ever has been able to control that undisciplined element of Navajo

who pillage the peaceful Hopi whenever in the mood. Many bitter and

scathing reports have been sent to Washington concerning this. Agents

have not minced words, and have not always spared themselves in an

effort to get justice—well, let us say, “consideration” for the Hopi.

When reports failed to procure attention, one or two started crusades

against the Navajo, not always successful, that ended in blows and

bruises, to say nothing of the chance of sterner wounds. A difficult

task to find the offender; if found, he was invariably supported by a

gang—his gang. I recall one investigator who stated blandly that it was

similar to conditions often found in cities: that of a corner gang.

Quite so. But the investigator did not ask to see the corner, nor did

he evidence any anxiety to encounter the gang.

The nomadic Navajo have a vast country to make themselves scarce in,

quite 30,000 square miles of wilderness, much of it untracked; there is

no quick communication between the six Agencies established to govern

these people. It has been possible to coördinate business methods, so

as to have uniform stock-regulations, for instance; but nothing has

been arranged to guarantee the peace. There have been numerous murders

in Navajo country. Representatives of the Board of Indian

Commissioners, particularly Major-General Hugh L. Scott, and inspectors

of the Indian Department have fired verbal volleys in support of Hopi

Agents. Navajo have been dragged to the Agency guardhouse, and other

Navajo have been haled before the Federal Courts when the Agent could

arrange locally all the details of the haling. A one-time United States

Marshal, charged with the duty of assisting, remained conspicuous by

his absence from the scene. The matter finally attracted the attention

of a sub-Committee of Congress, and brought about a field investigation

of Hopi conditions, pictured in a printed report. I know that the

report was complete, for I wrote it; in fact, I had prepared that

report in 1918, and placed it before Congress two years prior to the

appearance of the sub-Committee. The gentlemen graciously inserted it

as a tailpiece to their otherwise innocuous comments.

But the wall of political indifference to anything that does not

furnish a vote has not been dented. It is a mere matter between obscure

tribes, a squabble in the hills, which occasionally embarrasses an

Indian Agent and constantly annoys a helpless people who have no other

court of appeal. Neither tribe nor Agent can threaten a politician.

Both tribe and Agent are kept mute by an uncaring Bureau.

Announce, however, that these same Hopi Indians are wont to dance with

live rattlesnakes! Ah! that is a different story, and received with

different emotions. The politician rushes in to view the spectacle. The

Bureau sheds crocodile tears about it. Reams of reports are called for

and written. During the past twelve years the Hopi Snake Dance has

troubled the Solons of the Interior Department far more than any signal

of Hopi distress. The Christian ire of three administrations has been

aroused by this primitive pagan ceremony. Result: the Hopi Snake Dance

is as well advertised as the Grand Cañon of the Colorado!

Most picturesque of the Hopi towns is Walpi. You can procure a fine

appreciation of this, the effect of standing on the roof of the last

Walpi house and viewing the entire First Mesa therefrom, the narrow

rugged top and the deep valleys on either side, the trail down to

Polacca, the whole vast sweep of that distant and beautiful

landscape—simply by visiting the New York Museum of Natural History.

The artists have constructed a wonderful reproduction of that Enchanted

Empire citadel. My friend of various wild spots in Indian country, Mr.

Howard McCormick, magically brought the charm of the Hopi eyrie to the

edge of Central Park.

I recall a particularly drab day in New York, one of those having a

wintry edge that comes only off great waters, when I wandered into the

Museum, seeking this exhibit. I had anticipated something of the usual

order—papier-mâché, plaster, dust, and a ticket; but behold! I found

myself at home, on the mesa-top, below me the First Mesa and the Wepo

Valleys; and to my right would be Huh-kwat-we, the Terrace of the

Winds, and in the dim distance Moits-o-ve, or Yucca Point. I felt that

in a moment I should surely see Harry Shupula, the chief Snake priest,

emerging from his kiva; and half aloud I addressed one of the group as

“Quat-che” (friend). And at the foot of the winding trail, a little

beyond the spring, would be the camp of the water-witch and a desert

welcome—such a welcome as “Mac” and wandering Indian Agents receive. A

great feeling of Heimweh came over me. I wished for a magic carpet,

that I might step instantly from the lonely desert of New York into

crowded, speaking Hopi-land.

I remember a conversation with a clergyman from Canada, as we stood at

the inner edge of the crowd on the Walpi Snake Dance ledge, passing

that bit of ominous wait just before the entrance of the Antelope

priests for the annual ceremony. That is the time when the Hopi Indian

Agent meets most celebrities and makes most of his enemies. Some words

passed concerning the picturesqueness of old Walpi, and the magnificent

view from our position. The plain below was bathed in a lemon light.

“Yes,” I said, casually, “the people would be better off in the valley,

if we could get them to remove.”

“What!” he cried out in pain and direst astonishment. “Would you have

them leave this beautiful place—this beautiful life!”

I had uttered sacrilege. No Hopi of the old school could have bettered

the clergyman’s utter horror at the thought. But the gentleman, I am

sure, gave little attention to many things an Agent sees that are not

beautiful, things of distinct menace, hideous things. Walpi is a scenic

place, a ruined castle in outline, and always steeped in color effects;

but there is the dangerous ledge-road up which all supplies and wood

and water must be packed, a road that has accounted for more than one

Hopi when the brake would not hold. And did he not forget that women

did much of the packing on their backs? And the old and blind, who had

plunged over the sheer face of the cliff? And above all, the constant

danger of the filth-infested houses, where trachoma and tuberculosis

abide? These are things that a tourist does not notice, and when he is

away from the color effects and the sound of drumming chants, they do

not impinge on his vacant—his vacation mind.

Destroy Walpi as a picture? No. But as a human habitation, Yes!

I recall a visit to the Indian Office at Washington shortly after one

of my characteristic reports on this very subject.

“What!” said a Bureau chief who, because he signed a great many letters

daily without reading them, believed himself intelligent. “You

recommended dynamiting the First Mesa—the destruction of that oasis of

beauty, and peace, and—and—”

“And trachoma, and tuberculosis, and child prostitution,” I finished

for him, as he gasped and his words failed, as I knew they would. Words

always fail a Bureau chief. Like the long-range gun of the Germans, he

is accustomed to firing things across the continent, secure in that the

other fellow cannot immediately crash his words back into his teeth.

I had not recommended that. I had simply advocated the destruction of

the road leading to Walpi, since the Government and its Bureau Chief

would not advance sufficient moneys to make the road safe for travel.

That is the viewpoint of tourist and bureaucrat,—the artist has one of

pure sentimentality,—of all those who have viewed the Hopi, who have

been charmed by the color of his life, but who have been utterly blind

to his miseries, and who have contributed nothing to his well-being.

No one has a keener appreciation than I of the artistic value of the

Hopi pueblos—those old streets of worn rock where the bearded Spanish

walked; the curious archways and the irregular little balconies from

which children peer over at one; the thought of phantom Mission bells

from the peach orchards. But I was not stupid enough to overlook that

these same streets contained offal, that the houses were not

ventilated, and that there were various unseemly stenches in the air. A

tourist must leave his olfactory organs at home. And I knew, being in

charge, that all the labor of industrious and conscientious

field-matrons was not enough to keep those quaint streets and

courtyards clean.

I remember another visitor at another Snake Dance, a man sitting on the

parapet of a Hopi kiva, looking down through the ladder entrance. I saw

that a number of dancers were below there, preparing costumes. They had

an array of skins and masks and feathers, with many cans of bright

paints.

“I suppose you know a good bit about that too?” I asked.

“Well, I recognize some of the signs, common to Indian people.”

“Shall we go down? You can give them a hand,” I suggested.

“I should like to, very much; but—won’t they object?”

“Perhaps I can arrange that,” and I started down the ladder. Several of

the Indians glanced up, but, observing it was only Moungwi, said

nothing.

“Here!” I called to them. “Here is a real friend of yours. You may not

know him, but he understands many tribes, and their ways, and their

signs. Put him to work. He can help with those costumes.”

One looked up from a robe he was painting, and thrust forward a brush

and paints, as if to say: “Welcome, brother; fall to!”

The white visitor showed a rare facility. The Indians noticed it.

“You know him?” asked one, pointing to a design.

“Yes,” he said, naming it.

They laughed delightedly, and soon he was friend to them all. I left

him in the kiva, busily working with them and chatting as much as

possible with a limited vocabulary and many descriptive gestures. This

was Ernest Thompson Seton. I have not seen him since, but afterward he

forwarded a letter, thanking me for his entrée to the wardrobe-room of

the First Mesa, and giving some excellent advice concerning the things

we had discussed before he signed on as costume-painter for the Hopi

tribe. Among all the visitors I met in Hopi-land, he was one of very

few who sensed the things that should be done and those not done for

their welfare. Briefly, his idea was that the community life should not

be violently disrupted, for fear of the effect our own isolated rural

populations had suffered; and that efforts should be made to keep alive

all that is best in the social and mesa-plan of living, without

permitting the Indian people narrowly to confine themselves to it. This

of course would include the harmless dances or shows, the social

features that many confuse with ceremonies. I could recall the earnest

efforts made by former Agents to induce the people to leave the mesa

heights—notably that one beginning in 1891, when houses were built for

them in the flats, and later completely furnished. By 1900 at least one

hundred such houses had been placed at Hopi disposal. And I knew that

in 1911 not more than half of those houses were used even temporarily.

The people would return for the society of their kind, drawn, too, by

intense religious feeling for the ancient mesa home.

I could recall two abortive efforts made toward the allotment of these

people in severalty: the scheme to have them accept parcels of land,

many of which were miles from water, and on which it would have been

impossible for families to subsist themselves, to say nothing of

maintaining their sheep and other stock. The first of these allotment

plans blew up in 1894; but the Bureau, wedded to the allotment theory,

was not deterred. A second and most expensive effort died in 1911,

after friends of the Indian plainly showed the farce of the

proceedings, if they said nothing as to the inhuman side of it. This

did not please the allotting agent, eager for his pay and job, nor his

son, nor his assistants, nor the camp cook and the other hangers-on of

an allotting crew. But thank God! it died, nevertheless.

The average bureaucrat, admiring the Allotment Acts, thinks that an

Indian’s head may be jammed into a regulation lathe, and with a few

twists and spins turned out a full-fledged Mid-west agriculturist—just

such a man as Thompson Seton said needed community centres made for

him, to keep him from becoming an inmate of an insane asylum. Just so.

But it cannot be done, my masters, with the speed of the mimeograph

that grinds out your tirades and exhortations. Your Allotment Acts have

been good friends to South Dakotans and others who wished to speculate

in lands; but they have produced untold misery among the Indian

peoples, and have utterly destroyed an innocent and simple phase of

American life.

Now I never agreed with the ecclesiastical gentleman who thought that

the Hopi mesa system was wholly one of beauty and idealism. But the

writing man did force on me a realization of the utility and sanity to

be found in the life that the Hopi had unconsciously adopted. Begun as

a defense against enemies, the result in peace times was for good, if

accompanied by sanitation and the protection of the younger generation.

And I accepted a new view of the Indian ceremony and dance.

Until we furnish something as good in place of the Indian social dance,

why rave about it? We might easily have a large number of low-spirited,

sullen, and even dangerous Indians on our hands if it were not for

these joyous occasions. So long as the dances are clean, can any one

quarrel with a Ya-be-chai of the Navajo, a Corn Dance of the Hopi, or

one of the Pueblo spectacles, half pagan, half Catholic? I have seen

scores of such dances, not as a tourist, but as the man on the ground

in charge, and I have not been able to figure out that they are one bit

worse than a country picnic among our own bucolic population of Texas

or South Dakota, for instance. I have seen a South Dakota Rotary Club

cut as many fool antics as a Southwest Indian clan.

I recall an illustration from my very short stay among the Sioux in

1922. It was the Fourth of July, and I had permitted the old Indians to

hold their dance on the hills. It had long been the custom to stop

their merrymaking at sunset, and a very good ruling too. But this

Fourth was unusually quiet, the booze-runners not having appeared as

per schedule. The Indians petitioned me to permit just a little dancing

after nightfall. It had been very quiet, and my special police force

was large enough, and seemed loyal enough, to assure good order.

“All right,” I said. “But please remember that I shall have a squad of

police there, and I shall be there myself; so don’t start any shines.”

They had a very creditable evening party, and the peace was not broken.

Later I visited the Agency amusement hall where a number of whites,

visitors from the countryside and more than one mixed-blood couple of

education, were enjoying themselves to the latest jazz. Now I am no

authority on dancing and, having lived among Indians, I am not easily

shocked; but the postures and attitudes of those South Dakota whites

were—well, a trifle extreme, to say the least of it.

“We have looked at them both,” said an old Sioux to me, anxiously.

“Au-tay-ah-pe (Father), there may be something wrong with the Indian’s

drum dance, but—I do not like the white man’s fiddle dance.”

I told him very frankly which I thought the worse. There is no use in

trying to bluff an old Indian. He can see through a hypocrite quicker

than any man I know.

This is not a sentimentalist defence of the old Indian dance. I have

bitterly excoriated the “secret” dances of the Pueblo Indians of New

Mexico, but could never get sufficient backing from the Department to

end them. Such indecencies may be found among all primitive peoples,

and those of the Pueblos who indulge in them are most primitive—the

barbarians of San Felipe, Santo Domingo, and other decadent backward

pueblos. But I have tried to envision the social side of an alien

people who have no other form of diversion than the spectacle of the

dance. Were the Government to put them on a moving-picture circuit—but

we were discussing the decencies.

And, to repeat: When we have established among them an amusement as

appealing, simple, and inoffensive, it will be time for the

condemnation of those features that are innocuous and foreign. And it

will be long before I shall forget the comparison, by an Indian,

between the dance of the Sioux with drums and sleighbells, a noisy

soul-stirring hullabaloo, and—the seductive, suggestive “white man’s

fiddle dance.”

Indians of the Enchanted Desert · 第 61 / 91 题