A DESERT VENDÉE

One noticeable thing about all the Calhoun letters is the

complaint of inadequate support from Washington.—Abel:

Correspondence of James S. Calhoun

It was a hot sweltering desert day in July when I proceeded westward

from Oraibi to survey for the first time the contentious pueblo of

Hotevilla, Chief Youkeoma’s retreat. I did not expect to meet this

strange personality, but his very name caused me to have an interest in

so rare a character: You-ke-o-ma, or “something quite nearly

complete”—as one might say, “almost perfection.” An American Dalai

Lama.

Several miles beyond the little grotto of the Oraibi war-gods, a

concealed shrine of quaint images, passing that place where Youkeoma’s

adherents lost the contest to decide their traditional rights in the

town of Oraibi, one came to a wall of shattered rock. These Hotevilla

cliffs have little of dignity; they picture chaos, as it was left by

the rending and scarring of some violent earthquake in the ages gone.

To-day the ubiquitous Ford may ascend that wall on a wide and evenly

graded roadway, because I grew tired of risking my neck there; but it

was not so in 1911. My team had a tug of it up a dipping and winding

trail that the Indians, under guard, no doubt, had crudely torn from

the masses of tumbled sandstone.

The second steppe was dotted with thicket from which, on the winds of

springtime, stirs the fragrance of heliotrope. There were patches of

deep sand, and more of rock outcroppings, and then appeared the fields

of the natives, irregular gardens of corn and beans and melons, growing

profusely. These people can make a rock-quarry bloom and produce food.

The Hotevilla are always one year ahead of famine. At some time in the

past they must have suffered desperately from crop-failure, and that

bitter lesson taught them never again to trust a single harvest.

The pueblo itself was on the westernmost edge of the mesa. There, where

the rocks dropped away again in huge broken steps, overlooking the vast

Dinnebito Wash country, they had built their curious little houses of

stone and mud. If not balanced on the edge of a precipice, apparently

the Hopi are not happy. Fatalists—when the aged or blind plunge over it

is regretted, but not grieved about sufficiently to disparage the site.

Alcoves of the mesa benches were fenced with cottonwood boughs, and

served as hanging balconies for their burro stock. They had no cattle,

few sheep, and fewer horses; in fact they were and are the poorest of

the Hopi people, having rejected all tenders of acquisition and

progress; but in those things that do not run counter to the

traditions, such as cornmeal and burros, they have great wealth.

There was one man with me, and he advised against going down into the

village. Indeed, I was not inclined to insist on it, for coincident

with our topping the last rise the roofs of the highest houses had been

posted with guards, watching, watching us in an ominous manner: a

custom that prevailed for many years, and one that causes the stranger

to feel a trifle less than comfortable.

“Very likely they feel that we slipped up on them,” I said to my

companion.

“Not at all,” he replied. “They have been expecting you for days. They

knew when you arrived at Oraibi yesterday. Be sure of it, old Youkeoma

has gone underground and will remain in hiding until the coast is

clear. Those watching fellows simply want to know where you go and when

you depart. If we sought to take off a kid or two to school, there’d be

a fine row. They know we have no backing. I’ll bet they knew when you

left the Agency and started out this way.”

All of which proved to be true, and I had later to learn to circumvent

and deceive such mysterious methods of information.

We sat on a baking sand-hill and surveyed the place. It was simply a

dirtier duplicate of the other pueblos I have described, without their

picturesque setting. And if there is a place in America where aroma

reaches its highest magnitude, then that distinction must be granted

Hotevilla on a July afternoon. The sun broils down on the heated sand

and rock ledges, on the fetid houses and the litter and the garbage,

and all that accumulates from unclean people and their animals.

Multitudes of burros and chickens and dogs. Hosts of dogs. Lank,

slinking, half-starved, challenging dogs. Poisonous-looking dogs that

would attack one.

Hotevilla’s sloping streets end at the mesa-edge, and below are the

sacred spring and their sunlit fields. Far away in the northwest, as a

dim blue sail on the horizon, showed Navajo Mountain, that peak of

Indian mystery where the last of their secrets have found refuge. The

Hopi had migrated from that country centuries past, south to the Little

Colorado River; and then, like the back-wash of a wave, had drifted and

settled in his present place of stagnation. Perhaps Hotevilla had

proved his Promised Land.

The smell of cooking arose from the houses, a muttony odor,—although it

may have been burro-haunch,—mingled with smoke and the thick incense of

smouldering cedar. In and out of the doorways the women passed at their

tasks, and one sat weaving a reed plaque. They were all indifferent,

with a contemptuous sullen indifference, to the stranger. There was a

perfect swarm of children, wary, watching children, ready to dart and

hide, long-haired and dirty, and most of them as nude as Adam.

At one end of the village, and a little apart from it, stood a house

with a peaked roof. This had been the station of the Mennonite Mission,

but when last threatened, the good people departed. It required a brave

spirit to live close to the hostile Hopi. One was likely to reflect on

the fate of Fray Padre José de Espeleta, of the Kingdom of Navarre, and

the difference in theological teaching lent very little comfort.

Until 1915 the Hotevilla mesa was a very lonely place. The nearest

white neighbors were seven miles away, with rough cañons between, and

no telephone wires; and the nearest authority of the Government, the

Indian Agent, quite fifty miles distant, with no road-condition

assuring speed of rescue in case of trouble. One brave white woman

lived alone on that hilltop until the building of a Government school

brought neighbors. This was Miss Sarah E. Abbott, a field matron. For

many years she had been stationed at the First Mesa, where she had

acquired a knowledge of the Hopi language. She received orders to

confront the Hotevilla, and she did it. But it was necessary for me to

send police several times to arrest those who sought to intimidate her,

and the longest term of imprisonment ever given old Youkeoma himself,

perhaps the longest ever given an Indian at an Indian Agency, was

because of his threatening this woman.

When it grew near to sunset the men began returning from the fields,

plodding in with their sacks and staves and huge planters’ hoes. Many

of them were aged, their long hair matted and snaky-looking; but there

were enough of the burly, thickset fellows to give any official pause

if he contemplated dictating to that outfit. Even those who closely

observe these people wonder at this evidence of physique. The Hopi

lives largely on a vegetable diet. His teeth are blunted and worn down

like a horse’s from the eating of flint-like corn. Because of isolation

and clan ceremonial exclusion they have become devitalized through

centuries of inbreeding, and quickly succumb to disease. And yet these

same Hopi are famed for two things requiring raw strength and sustained

energy: they can lift and pack on their backs the heaviest burdens, and

they are great long-distance runners. Many of their ceremonies include

the foot race, notably the sunrise competition on the day of the Snake

Dance. Given a long desert course, fifty to one hundred miles, and the

Hopi runner will wear down a horse. Their ability to bear burdens comes

from both sides of the house, since for ages the women have packed

water from the springs to the heights, and the men the harvests, the

firewood, and the rock for building. I have seen two moving piles of

wood on a mesa-trail, to discover one a burro-load and the other

covering a man, with small difference between them.

And they must have carried weight over distances that compared with

their runs, for how else were the Spanish Missions roofed? The great

timbers were brought on the backs of men. About 1629 the Hopi, obedient

and enslaved, brought these timbers from the San Francisco Mountains to

Oraibi and other points, a feat equaled only by the Acoma Indians, who

built a huge mission atop their penal height, the beams coming from San

Mateo or Mount Taylor. Each of these packs was more than fifty miles.

One of the unused timbers may be seen to-day in the convento part of

the Acoma Mission. It is a log measuring more than thirty feet in

length and two feet in thickness. Without mechanical equipment, the

raising of it to the mesa-top would tax any man’s ingenuity.

Especially would an official pause in dictation at the time of which I

speak, for the Hopi had defied two former superintendents and for

several years had done exactly as they pleased, in utter disregard of

all admonitions emanating by mail from Washington. Of course official

Washington had not worried, and for the rest of the world the Hopi do

not exist; but the example to about fifteen hundred other and

disciplined Hopi and to several thousand unregulated and undisciplined

Navajo, all in constant touch with these rebels, was not good. The

Agents reaped the effect of this timid policy, and it had given them

concern.

The Hopi had so acted at other times, and the methods adopted to

correct them had not been of the happiest. Officials had threatened

and, when the native did not stir, had offered bribes.

“Your bones will bleach in the sun!” one set had promised—to be

followed by: “Won’t you come in and be good, for a nice new contract

stove?” Now the bleaching process had affected only those so

unfortunate as to die naturally, and the Hotevilla people were content

with their piki stones and adobe fireplaces. The Indian does not

respect those who seek to buy him. When a threat proves as empty as it

is boastful, he is strengthened in no small degree. Washington has been

given to bluffing, and buying.

The Indian Service had not greatly concerned itself about these strange

people until 1887. Between 1847, when the Hopi were acquired as one of

the blessings of the Mexican War, and 1887, when the first school was

planted in Keams Cañon—forty years—they had lived practically as

undisturbed as since their coming from the cliff- and cavern-dwellings

in the northern cañons of the Utah border. A few traders had visited

them often enough to be known; and one of them, Mr. John Lorenzo

Hubbell, has told me of his witnessing a Snake Dance in the seventies,

a solitary white spectator where now several thousands congregate

annually. The tourist was not in those days, and had he been, under the

circumstances of the back-country, it is likely he would have been

going away from a Snake Dance rather than attending one.

In 1890 the defiance of the Oraibi first caused notice. Old

Lo-lo-lo-mi, their good chief, had been to Washington, and had agreed

to place the children of his faction in the school. His counsels were

disregarded by the opposition; in fact they imprisoned the old man and

threatened him with death for this lapse from the traditions.

Lo-lo-lo-mi was “too good,” as his name implied. The sub-Agent, Mr.

Ralph Collins, arrested several of the war-chiefs and sent them to

their Agent at Fort Defiance. When they returned they busied themselves

making more trouble; so troops were sent to pacify and coerce them, and

the first great blunder was made by an army officer. This officer

accompanied Collins to the Oraibi mesa. They were warned that the

hostiles had armed and meant to fight. Believing this to be so much

bluff, they ascended the mesa to the pueblo. A war-chief, who had

refused to attend a council, stepped out on one of the terraced houses.

He was painted for the occasion, carried a rifle, and looked the part

of his office. He was joined by a medicine man, who wore a raw

sheepskin that dripped blood and besmeared his body. These two, knowing

of many sympathizers within the hovels, dared the whites to combat and

greatly abused them. The two white men prudently retired after an

abortive parley.

Then came five troops of cavalry. The commanding officer invited the

hostile headmen to a council below the mesa, and gave his word that

they should be respected. They came, but stubbornly refused to change

their minds as to this white man’s educational propaganda. They were

then seized and bound as prisoners; and were afterward marched up the

pueblo trail as a screen for the soldiers. This was rank betrayal, and

the effects of it live in the Oraibi country to this day.

“Some white men do not keep their word.” And at Oraibi, or at least

among unreconstructed Oraibans, who are now at Hotevilla, it is wisdom

to suspect all white men.

Collins, the civilian and sub-Agent, had no part in this. He advised

against it and deplored it. It would have been better to risk a bit of

bad marksmanship, for which the Hopi is noted; it would have been

better to beat a few worthless war-chiefs and medicine men to death, if

that were actually necessary. One can forgive a battle—but betrayal

rankles in the heart.

The prisoners taken at this time were sent to Fort Wingate. In a few

months they were released on promise to be good, but when they returned

from captivity they too refused to keep the parole given. The goose of

an officer had produced a flock of ganders, and his work was to live

for nearly three decades. In 1894 troops were again in demand at

Oraibi, and nineteen of the Indian leaders were sent as prisoners to

Alcatraz Island. They were imprisoned about eight months, and returned

impenitent.

In 1898 the Hopi suffered from smallpox. It was not so bad as that

epidemic told of by the Spanish, but it was severe enough. Superstition

and fright, combined with fatalism, are hard things to conquer among a

people who know nothing of vaccination, who trust no stranger, but

prefer to die unassisted by aliens. Troops were necessary, to affect

quarantine and to cremate bodies. In 1899, say the records, troops came

again, and once more prisoners were sent to Fort Defiance.

All this time internal dissension was at work among the Oraibans, and

in 1905 differences as to the views of local oracles concerning the

traditions reached a climax. This quarrel involved nearly everyone

within reaching distance. The Commissioner of Indian Affairs, Francis

E. Leupp, the best supporter of discipline the Service has had in three

decades, was at odds with his Agent on this station and, to tell the

truth, this Agent had met one Waterloo at the Chimopovi pueblo, where

an outpost of the Oraibi dwelt. His effort to coerce the Hopi with an

enlarged Navajo police force had nearly resulted in bloodshed and real

war; and at the end of this fiasco the Navajo mercenaries threatened

his life because the pay-chest was not promptly thrown open to them.

So the Commissioner came to exert a strong personal influence. And he

found speedily that his personal influence in the great Desert amounted

to very little. The Indians had a keen sense of the fitness of things,

and they resented his appearing to negotiate with them without an

official sponsor.

“Who are you?” asked the troubled Oraibi, when invited to a council

with him.

“I am the Commissioner from Washington,” he stated, a fact that was

known to President Roosevelt, the Grid-iron Club, and the New York

Evening Post, and that should have been patent everywhere.

“Why do you come here without Moungwi, then?” they demanded. “He should

introduce you to us. We do not know you. Moungwi is not here. Why do

you come in the back way, from Winslow, and call a council without

Moungwi?”

Indians are often peculiarly consistent. They did not regret that

recent fracas with Moungwi, when they had seized him by the beard and

threatened to toss him bodily from the gigantic Chimopovi

cliffs,—action prevented only by his Navajo police threatening to open

fire,—but they did know something of official courtesy between and

among all Moungwis or Chiefs, and there is such a thing as having the

proper entrée, even with an Indian tribe in the far-removed hills. Very

likely the Commissioner said something about the respect due his

office; when arose a big Indian, who declaimed to this astonishing

effect:—

“This man comes here alone, and he has a crooked mouth. His words go

two ways. He is no Commissioner of Indian Affairs, or the Moungwi would

be here to tell us. I myself saw this man working with a shovel on the

railroad section-gang not three weeks ago. Don’t listen to him. He will

lead you the wrong trail.”

Now this was a terrible blow to dignity, and hurt all Washington.

Matters did not improve, and by 1906 the trouble had increased to the

point where troops were necessary once again. They came. They rehearsed

their parts perfectly, and prisoners were taken. A special inspector

was sent in to observe matters, and he found himself in a very

embarrassing position. The one hundred captives had arranged a hunger

strike. Receipts for their prison mess-equipment had been demanded of

them, in strict accordance with the farcical methods of accounting then

in vogue. The true Hopi hostile, loyal to high-priest Youkeoma, has

never signed for anything. He is reared to be wary of the white man’s

papers. As he cannot read them for himself, he classes everything in

the nature of a document along with the white man’s word, as

illustrated by the first army officer who betrayed him.

“If they won’t sign, let them starve,” said the soldier in this case,

and he was not at all worried about it. But the special inspector was

very much worried about it. He had to be more careful of his civil job;

so he managed early one morning, with the seductive aroma of boiling

coffee and the alluring scent of fried bacon, to develop a hungry Judas

among the younger men, who signed for the whole lot; and lo! by such

means all tribulation was avoided.

This time seventeen leaders were sent to Fort Huachuca, seventy-two

were put to work on the roads of the reserve, and a lot of younger men,

rebels in embryo, were dispatched to distant Indian schools, in the

belief that enforced education would bring calm to their troubled

spirits. Eight of these young men went to Carlisle. I had to deal with

them when they returned, some seven years later. In fact, the

Commissioner of that time advised me that they would prove a help in

administering the affairs of the reservation. They returned arrayed in

the clothing of the white man, but only three of them showed any signs

of repentance. Those of the Hotevilla, with one exception, shucked the

clothing promptly and went back to the blanket. They were sullen and

suspicious, and they had not lost their memories.

I did not blame them in great measure, for at least four had been

married men when taken from the pueblo. Their wives now had other

consorts, other children. The children of the rebel fathers would not

forgive them, because they repudiated the faithless wives. The fathers

blamed the Government for not protecting their households. And the

women said to me:—

“You took our men. We were left alone. We had to keep the children

alive, and this meant tending the fields and the sheep. Speak not to us

of morals.”

At least that was the English meaning of their argument and reproof,

whatever the Hopi terms of it. Quite so many “’Lispeths”: “You are all

liars, you English”; and in the same manner their sons and daughters

took to their “own unclean people savagely.”

Now a tribal marriage is a legal marriage, or so the courts have

decreed, of course far removed from the haunts of the alien and having

no specific knowledge of him or of his conditions. So, in strict

accordance with sacred property rights and the Great Book of

Platitudes, it was my duty to say to the outfit assembled: “You,

hussies, are guilty of adultery, and many of your children are

illegitimate; while you, impenitent rebels, may not take other wives,

since by so doing you would commit bigamy; and each of you, every one,

all and several, to wit, should have long terms in the guardhouse.”

That is what I should have said; but being of sound mind, and having

very little use for platitudes, especially those courageously hurled by

mail across two thousand miles, I did nothing of the sort. I had a

convenient place in which I kept the sacred book hidden, and had

trained myself into a complete forgetfulness of it.

But notwithstanding my sympathies, I could never soften the hatred of

one of the sons. He hated his father because of his mother’s treatment,

and above all this he hated white men, including me. The stupid sins of

one Moungwi are inherited by another in the line of succession.

“You took my father,” he said to me, “and left my mother to work hard

in the fields; and when I grew big enough to work you took me to

school, so she was left again without help. Then, when my father

returned from Carlisle, he would have nothing to do with my mother. And

you would not let me go home to her. I have no use for these ways of

the white men. I will not cut my hair, and I do not agree to continue

at school. You are strong enough to make me, but I will not do these

things for you.”

He could tell me this in straight English, as at my desert school he

had received a good grammar foundation; and he was not interrupted or

punished, because I encouraged the pupils to come to me and speak their

minds. But, being stronger, I elected to do these things for him,

having in mind his individual interests as separate and apart from the

feuds of the past; but I could not severely blame him for his stubborn

opposition. He was a very bright lad, and became an exceptional

student; but just as surely he returned finally to his “own unclean

people, savagely.” Three weeks on the roads, breaking stone and

wheeling sand, would have done more to cure that father’s rebellious

attitude than those years at Carlisle, exiled from his household and

all of life that he understood and cared for. To be sure,—and to be

fair to his instructors,—the man learned a great deal at Carlisle,

which was a very fine school; and more than this, he saw the wonders of

the white man. He was one of the first to witness an air flight. And

when he told his ancients at the pueblo of these strange and

unbelievable things he had seen in Philadelphia, they arose in wrath,

knocked out their ceremonial pipes, and denounced him as the greatest

liar unhung. So even by the elders, whose lost cause he had espoused

and suffered for, he was repudiated and damned. Few patriots get such

treatment as this. He was completely ostracized at home. To keep him in

food, I employed him as a local policeman, hoping he would revenge

himself; but this commission brought him only additional scorn and

reprobation. For long he lived at Hotevilla as a pelican in the desert;

where else could he live? Was it not home?

But we had reached 1911, with the same old situation burning on the

Oraibi mesa, save that the hostiles were now in a pueblo of their own,

and could be dealt with, however justly or unjustly, without affecting

those who had never actively resisted the Government. It was sheer

nonsense to begin again the farce of supplication and argument, of

cheap bribes and equally impotent threats. No bones had “bleached in

the sun,” and there were not enough native police and loyal employees

to risk an attempt at coercing this sullen horde. I returned to the

Agency and wrote a very impolitic report. Anything of truth that the

Indian Bureau does not wish to know is impolitic.

I recited the facts, and recommended, as the Government had found it

necessary to send in troops so many times before, and always after much

backing and filling and abortive negotiation,—all to the amusement of

the savage,—why not send troops now, and quickly. This recommendation

was dated July 28, 1911.

Government moves with a truly fearsome swiftness. I realize now, after

thirteen years of report-swapping and buck-passing, that some miracle

happened in that my suggestion was considered at all. I have been told

that a friend assured the Secretary of the Interior that I was not a

maniac. But it required until September 27, 1911 to request the

Secretary of War to detail cavalry from a distant point, when troops

were idle at Fort Apache only one hundred and eighty miles away—quite

in the neighborhood, as desert spaces are considered. Another month

drifted by, and on October 28 the Secretary of War detailed Hugh L.

Scott, then Colonel in rank, as an officer of Indian experience likely

to have influence with these strange people. Under date of November 15

I was directed to coöperate with Colonel Scott, and as no allowance was

made for the fact that it was winter and mails likely to be delayed

along the one hundred and five miles of wagon-transport, the great

Indian diplomatist and his officers and men reached the Moqui Agency

before my orders. Four months had been devoted to the delicate

untwisting of red tape that a telephone conversation between

Departments and a telegram to the nearest post would have settled in

twenty-four hours’ time. How comfortable if those Hopi had been Ute,

Apache, Navajo, or Sioux!

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