I Nolens Volens 3
II Across the Plains 11
III Into “Indian Country” 22
IV Old Trails and Desert Fare 30
V Desert Life and Literature 44
VI A Northern Wonderland 54
VII The First Ball of the Season 65
VIII Old Oraibi 78
IX The Making and Breaking of Chiefs 94
X The Provinces of the “Mohoce or Mohoqui” 101
XI The Law of the Realm 113
XII Comments and Complaints 122
XIII A Desert Vendée 142
XIV Soldiers, Indians, and Schools 157
XV An Echo of the Dawn-Men 181
XVI Fiddles and Drums 191
XVII Service Tradition 210
XVIII Buttons and Bonds 224
XIX Our Friends, the Tourists 240
XX The Great Snake-Ceremony 260
XXI Desert Belascos 275
XXII On the Heels of Adventure 287
XXIII The Red Bootleggers 297
XXIV Held for Ransom 312
XXV Wanted at Court 325
XXVI Hopi Annals 336
XXVII L’Envoi 361