CHAPTER VII

In the autumn of 1912 the family went to Skernevizi, their Polish

estate, in order to indulge the Emperor’s love for big-game hunting. In

the vast forests surrounding the estate all kinds of game were preserved

and the sport of hunting there was said to be very exciting. During the

war these woods and all the game were destroyed by the Germans, but

until after 1914 Skernevizi was a favorite retreat of the Emperor. I had

returned to my house in Tsarskoe Selo but I was not allowed long to

remain there. A telegram from the Empress conveyed the disquieting news

that Alexei, in jumping into a boat, had injured himself and was now in

a serious condition. The child had been removed from Skernevizi to

Spala, a smaller Polish estate near Warsaw, and to Warsaw I accordingly

traveled. Here I was met by one of the Imperial carriages and was driven

to Spala. Driving for nearly an hour through deep woods and over a

heavy, sandy road I reached my destination, a small wooden house,

something like a country inn, in which the suite was lodged. Two rooms

had been set apart for me and my maid, and here I found Olga and Tatiana

waiting to help me get settled. Their mother, they said, was expecting

me, and without any loss of time I went with them to the palace.

I found the Empress greatly agitated. The boy was temporarily improved

but was still too delicate to be taken back to Tsarskoe Selo. Meanwhile

the family lived in one of the dampest, gloomiest palaces I have ever

seen. It was really a large wooden villa very badly planned as far as

light and sunshine were concerned. The large dining room on the ground

floor was so dark that the electric lights had to be kept on all day.

Upstairs to the right of a long corridor were the rooms of the Emperor

and Empress, her sitting room in bright English chintzes being one of

the few cheerful spots in the house. Here we usually spent our evenings.

The bedrooms and dressing rooms were too dark for comfort, but the

Emperor’s study, also on the right of the corridor, was fairly bright.

As long as the health of little Alexei continued fairly satisfactory the

Emperor and his suite went stag hunting daily in the forests of the

estate. Every evening after dinner the slain stags were brought to the

front of the palace and laid out for inspection on the grass. The

huntsmen with their flaring torches and winding horns standing over the

day’s bag made, I was told, a very picturesque spectacle. The Emperor

and his suite and most of the household used to enjoy going out after

dinner to enjoy this fine sight. I never went myself, having a foolish

love of animals which prevents enjoyment of the royal sport of hunting.

I even failed to appreciate, as the head of the estate, kind Count

Velepolsky, thought I should, the many trophies of the chase with which

the corridors and apartments of the palace were adorned.

What I did enjoy was the beautiful park which surrounded the palace, and

the rapid little river Pilitsa that flowed through it. There was one

leafy path through which I often walked in the mornings with the

Emperor. This was called the Road of Mushrooms because it ended in a

wonderful mushroom bench. The whole place was so remote and peaceful

that I deeply sympathized with their Majesties’ irritation that even

there they could never stir abroad without being haunted by the police

guard.

Although Alexei’s illness was believed to have taken a favorable turn

and he was even beginning to walk a little about the house and gardens,

I found him pale and decidedly out of condition. He occasionally

complained of pain, but the doctors were unable to discover any actual

injury. One day the Empress took the child for a drive and before we had

gone very far we saw that indeed he was very ill. He cried out with pain

in his back and stomach, and the Empress, terribly frightened, gave the

order to return to the palace. That return drive stands out in my mind

as an experience of horror. Every movement of the carriage, every rough

place in the road, caused the child the most exquisite torture, and by

the time we reached home he was almost unconscious with pain. The next

weeks were endless torment to the boy and to all of us who had to listen

to his constant cries of pain. For fully eleven days these dreadful

sounds filled the corridors outside his room, and those of us who were

obliged to approach had often to stop our ears with our hands in order

to go about our duties. During the entire time the Empress never

undressed, never went to bed, rarely even lay down for an hour’s rest.

Hour after hour she sat beside the bed where the half-conscious child

lay huddled on one side, his left leg drawn up so sharply that for

nearly a year afterwards he could not straighten it out. His face was

absolutely bloodless, drawn and seamed with suffering, while his almost

expressionless eyes rolled back in his head. Once when the Emperor came

into the room, seeing his boy in this agony and hearing his faint

screams of pain, the poor father’s courage completely gave way and he

rushed, weeping bitterly, to his study. Both parents believed the child

dying, and Alexei himself, in one of his rare moments of consciousness,

said to his mother: “When I am dead build me a little monument of stones

in the wood.”

The family’s most trusted physicians, Dr. Rauchfuss and Professor

Fedoroff and his assistant Dr. Derevanko, were in charge of the case and

after the first consultations declared the Tsarevitch’s condition

hopeless. The hemorrhage of the stomach from which he was suffering

seemed liable to turn into an abscess which could at any moment prove

fatal. We had two terrible moments in which this complication

threatened. One day at luncheon a note was brought from the Empress to

the Emperor who, pale but collected, made a sign for the physicians to

leave the table. Alexei, the Empress had written, was suffering so

terribly that she feared the worst was about to happen. This crisis,

however, was averted. On the second occasion, on an evening after dinner

when we were sitting very quietly in the Empress’s boudoir, Princess

Henry of Prussia, who had come to be with her sister in her trouble,

appeared in the doorway very white and agitated and begged the members

of the suite to retire as the child’s condition was desperate. At

eleven o’clock the Emperor and Empress entered the room, despair written

on their faces. Still the Empress declared that she could not believe

that God had abandoned them and she asked me to telegraph Rasputine for

his prayers. His reply came quickly. “The little one will not die,” it

said. “Do not allow the doctors to bother him too much.” As a matter of

fact the turning point came a few days later, the pain subsided, and the

boy lay wasted and utterly spent, but alive.

Curiously enough there was no church on this Polish estate, but during

the illness of the Tsarevitch a chapel was installed in a large green

tent in the garden. A new confessor, Father Alexander, celebrated mass

and after the first celebration he walked in solemn procession from the

altar to the sickroom bearing with him holy communion for the sick boy.

The Emperor and Empress were very much impressed with Father Alexander

and from that time on they retained him in their private chapel at

Tsarskoe Selo. He was a good man but not a brave one, for when the

Revolution came, and the Emperor and the Empress sent for him to come to

them, he confessed himself afraid to go. Poor man! His caution, after

all, did not save him. He was shot by the Bolsheviki a year or two

afterwards, on what pretext I do not know.

The convalescence of Alexei was slow and wearisome. His nurse, Marie

Vechniakoff, had grown so hysterical with fatigue that she had to be

relieved, while the Empress was so exhausted that she could hardly move

from room to room. The young Grand Duchesses were tireless in their

devotion to the poor invalid, as was also M. Gilliard, who read to him

and diverted him hours on end. Gradually the distracted household

assumed a more normal aspect. The Emperor, in Cossack uniform, began

once more to entertain the officers of his Varsovie Lancers, commanded

by a splendid soldier, General Mannerheim, of whom the world has heard

much. As Alexei’s health continued to improve there was even a little

shooting, and a great deal of tennis which the girls, after their long

confinement to the house, greatly enjoyed. All of us began to be happy

again, but one day the Emperor called me into his study and showed me a

telegram from his brother, Grand Duke Michail, in which the latter

announced his morganatic marriage to the Countess Brassoff, of whom the

Emperor strongly disapproved. It was not the marriage itself that so

strongly disturbed the Emperor, but that Michail had solemnly given his

word of honor that it would never take place. “He broke his word--his

word of honor,” the Emperor repeated again and again.

Another blow which the Emperor received at this time was the suicide of

Admiral Chagin, commandant of the _Standert_ and one of the closest

friends of the family. The Admiral shot himself on account of an unhappy

love affair, and deeply as the Emperor mourned his death he was even

more indignant at the manner of it. Russians, I know, are inclined to

morbidity, and suicide with them is not an uncommon thing. But Nicholas

II always regarded it as an act of dishonor. “Running away from the

field of battle,” was his characterization of such an act, and when he

heard of Chagin’s suicide he gave way to a terrible mood of anger and

grief. Speaking of both Michail and Chagin he said bitterly: “How, in

the midst of the boy’s illness and all our trouble, how could they have

done such things?” The poor Emperor, to whom every failure of those he

loved and trusted came as an utterly unexpected blow, how near was his

hour of complete and final disillusionment of nearly all earthly

loyalties.

We had a few weeks of peaceful enjoyment before leaving Spala that

autumn. The girls, bright and happy once more, rode every morning, the

crisp air and the exercise coloring their cheeks and raising their

spirits high. The Emperor tramped the woods, sometimes with me as his

companion, and on one of these outings we both had a narrow escape from

drowning. The Emperor took me for a row on the river which, as I have

said, had a very rapid current. Intent on keeping the boat well into the

current, the Emperor ran us into a small island, and for a few seconds

escape from an ignominious upset seemed impossible. I was thoroughly

frightened, the Emperor not a little embarrassed, and ardor for water

sports was, for a time, rather lessened in both of us.

On October 21 (Russian Calendar) we celebrated the accession to the

throne with high mass and holy communion, and a few days later the

doctors decided that Alexei was well enough to be moved to Tsarskoe

Selo. The Imperial train was made ready and their Majesties decided that

I was to travel on it with the rest of the suite. This was, as a matter

of fact, contrary to strict etiquette, and the announcement created

among the ladies in waiting much consternation, not to say rancor. There

is no question that being a regularly appointed lady in waiting to

royalty and having nothing to do when a mere friend of the exalted one

happens to be at hand is a bit irritating, so I cannot really blame the

Empress’s ladies for objecting to me as a traveling companion. The

Imperial train, now used, one hears, by the inner circle of the

Communists, was composed of a number of luxurious carriages, more like a

home than a railway train. In the carriage of the Emperor and Empress

the easy chairs and sofas were upholstered in bright chintz and there

were books, family photographs, and all sort of familiar trinkets. The

emperor’s study was in his favorite green leather, and adjoining their

dressing rooms was a large and perfectly equipped bathroom. In this

carriage also were rooms for the personal attendants of their Majesties.

The Grand Duchesses and their maids had a similar carriage, and Alexei’s

carriage, which had compartments for the maids of honor and myself, was

furnished with every imaginable comfort. The last carriage was the

dining wagon with a small anteroom where the inevitable zakouski, the

Russian table of _hors d’œuvres_, was served. At the long dining table

the Emperor sat with his daughters on either hand, while facing him were

Count Fredericks and the ladies in waiting. Throughout the journey of

nearly two days the Empress was served in her own room or beside the bed

where Alexei lay, very weak, but bright and cheerful once more.

This chapter may well close with one of the opening events of 1913, the

Jubilee of the Romanoffs, celebrating the three hundredth anniversary of

their reign. In February the Court moved from Tsarskoe Selo to the

Winter Palace in Petrograd, a place they disliked because of the vast

gloominess of the building and the fact that the only garden was a tiny

space hardly large enough for the children to play or to exercise in. On

reaching Petrograd the family drove directly across the Neva to Christ’s

Chapel, the little church of Peter the Great, where is, or was,

preserved a miraculous picture of the Christ, very old and highly

revered. The public had not been notified that the Imperial Family would

first visit this chapel, but their presence quickly became known and

they drove back to the Winter Palace through excited, but on the whole

undemonstrative, masses of people, a typical Petrograd crowd.

The actual celebration of the Jubilee began with a solemn service in the

Cathedral of Our Lady of Kazan, which everyone familiar with Petrograd

remembers as one of the most beautiful of Russian churches. The vast

building was packed to its utmost capacity, and that means a much larger

crowd than in ordinary churches, since in Russia the congregation stands

or kneels through the entire service. From my position I had a very good

view of both the Emperor and the Tsarevitch, and I was puzzled to see

them raise their heads and gaze long at the ceiling, but afterwards they

told me that two doves had appeared and had floated for several minutes

over their heads. In the religious exaltation of the hour this appeared

to the Emperor a symbol that the blessing of God, after three

[Illustration: THE EMPEROR AND EMPRESS IN OLD SLAVONIC DRESS. 1913

JUBILEE.]

[Illustration: THE INVALID EMPRESS ON HER BALCONY AT PETERHOF.]

centuries, continued to rest on the House of Romanoff. There followed a

long series of functions at the palace, with deputations coming from all

over the Empire, the women appearing at receptions and dinners in the

beautiful national dress, which were also worn by the Empress and her

daughters. The Empress, for all her weariness, was regal in her richly

flowing robes and long-veiled, high _kokoshnik_, the Russian national

headdress, set with magnificent jewels. She also wore the wide-ribboned

order of St. Andrew, which was her sole privilege to wear, and at the

most formal of the state dinners she wore the most splendid of all the

crown jewels. The young Grand Duchesses were simply but beautifully

gowned on all occasions, and they wore the order of Catherine the Great,

red ribbons with blazing diamond stars. The crowds were enormous in all

the great state rooms, the Imperial Family standing for hours while the

multitudes filed past with sweeping curtsies and low bows. So long and

fatiguing were these ceremonies that at the end the Empress was

literally too fatigued to force a smile. Poor little Alexei also, after

being carried through the rooms and obliged to acknowledge a thousand

greetings, was taken back to his room in a condition of utter

exhaustion.

There were state performances at the theater and the opera, Glinka’s

“Life for the Tsar” being sung to the usual tumult of applause and

adulation, but for all that I felt that there was in the brilliant

audience little real enthusiasm, little real loyalty. I saw a cloud over

the whole celebration in Petrograd, and this impression, I am almost

sure, was shared by the Empress. She told me that she could never feel

happy in Petrograd. Everything in the Winter Palace reminded her of

earlier years when she and her husband used to go happily to the theater

together and returning would have supper in their dressing gowns before

the fire talking over the events of the day and evening. “I was so happy

then,” she said plaintively, “so well and strong. Now I am a wreck.”

Much as both she and the Emperor desired to shorten their stay in

Petrograd, they were obliged to remain several weeks after the close of

the official celebration because Tatiana, who unwisely had drunk the

infected water of the capital, fell ill of typhoid and could not for

some time be moved. With her lovely brown hair cut short, we finally

went back to Tsarskoe Selo, where she made good progress back to health.

In the spring began the celebration of the Jubilee throughout the

Empire. The visit to the Volga, especially to Kostrama, the home of the

first Romanoff monarch, Michail Feodorovnitch, was a magnificent

success, the people actually wading waist deep in the river in order to

get nearer the Imperial boat. It was the same through all the

surrounding governments, crowds, cheers, acclamations, prayers, and

great choruses singing the national hymn, very evidence of love and

loyalty. I particularly remember when the cortège reached the town of

Pereyaslovl, in the Vladimir Government, because it was from there that

my father’s family originated, and some of his relatives took part in

the day’s celebration. The Empress, to my regret, was not present, being

confined to her bed on the Imperial train, ill and fatigued, yet under

obligation to be ready for special ceremonies in Moscow. It would need

a more eloquent pen than mine adequately to describe those days in

Moscow, the Holy City of Russia. The weather was perfect, and under the

clear sunshine the floating flags and banners, the flower-trimmed

buildings, and the numberless decorations made up a spectacle of

unforgettable beauty. Leaving his car at some distance from the Kremlin,

the Emperor entered the great gate on foot, preceded by chanting priests

with waving censers and holy images. Behind the Emperor and his suite

came the Empress and Alexei in an open car through crowds that pressed

hard against the police lines, while overhead all the bells of Moscow

pealed welcome to the Sovereigns. Every day it was the same,

demonstrations of love and fealty it seemed that no time or circumstance

could ever alter.

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