_Some Islands discovered.--Account of the Natives of Atooi, who came
off to the Ships, and their Behaviour on going on board.--One of them
killed.--Precautions used to prevent Intercourse with the Females.--A
Watering-place found.--Reception upon landing.--Excursion into the
Country.--A Morai visited and described.--Graves of the Chiefs, and of
the human Sacrifices, there buried.--Another Island, called Oneeheow,
visited.--Ceremonies performed by the Natives, who go off to the
Ships.--Reasons for believing that they are Cannibals.--A Party
sent ashore, who remain two Nights.--Account of what passed on
landing.--The Ships leave, the Islands, and proceed to the North._
On the 2d of January, at day-break, we weighed anchor, and resumed our
course to the N., having fine weather, and a gentle breeze at E., and
E.S.E., till we got into the latitude of 7° 45' N., and the longitude
of 205° E., where we had one calm day. This was succeeded by a N.E.
by E., and E.N.E. wind. At first it blew faint, but freshened as we
advanced to the N. We continued to see birds every day of the sorts
last mentioned, sometimes in greater numbers than others, and between
the latitude of 10° and 11°, we saw several turtles. All these are
looked upon as signs of the vicinity of land. However, we discovered
none till day-break, in the morning of the 18th, when an island made
its appearance, bearing N.E. by E.; and soon after, we saw more
land bearing N., and entirely detached from the former. Both had the
appearance of being high land. At noon, the first bore N.E. by E. 1/2
E., by estimation about eight or nine leagues distant; and an elevated
hill, near the east end of the other, bore N. 1/2 W. Our latitude, at
this time, was 21° 12' N., and longitude 200° 41' E. We had now light
airs and calms by turns, so that, at sunset, we were not less than
nine or ten leagues from the nearest land.
On the 19th, at sun-rise, the island first seen, bore E., several
leagues distant. This being directly to windward, which prevented our
getting near it, I stood for the other, which we could reach; and, not
long after, discovered a third island in the direction of W.N.W., as
far distant as land could be seen. We had now a fine breeze at E. by
N., and I steered for the east end of the second island, which, at
noon, extended from N. 1/2 E. to W.N.W. 1/4 W., the nearest part being
about two leagues distant. At this time, we were in some doubt whether
or no the land before us was inhabited; but this doubt was soon
cleared up, by seeing some canoes coming off from the shore toward the
ships. I immediately brought-to, to give them time to join us. They
had from three to six men each; and, on their approach, we were
agreeably surprised to find that they spoke the language of Otaheite,
and of the other islands we had lately visited. It required but very
little address to get them to come along-side; but no entreaties could
prevail upon any of them to come on board. I tied some brass medals to
a rope, and gave them to those in one of the canoes, who, in return,
tied some small mackerel to the rope as an equivalent. This was
repeated; and some small nails, or bits of iron, which they valued
more than any other article, were given them. For these they exchanged
more fish and a sweet potatoe, a sure sign that they had some notion
of bartering, or, at least, of returning one present for another. They
had nothing else in their canoes, except some large gourd shells, and
a kind of fishing-net; but one of them offered for sale the piece
of stuff that he wore round his waist, after the manner of the other
islands. These people were of a brown colour; and, though of the
common size, were stoutly made. There was little difference in the
casts of their colour, but a considerable variation in their features,
some of their visages not being very unlike those of Europeans. The
hair of most of them was cropt pretty short, others had it flowing
loose, and, with a few, it was tied in a bunch on the crown of the
head. In all it seemed to be naturally black; but most of them had
stained it, as is the practice of the Friendly Islanders, with some
stuff which gave it a brown or burnt colour. In general they wore
their beards. They had no ornaments about their persons, nor did we
observe that their ears were perforated; but some were punctured on
the hands, or near the groin, though in a small degree; and the bits
of cloth which they wore, were curiously-stained with red, black, and
white colours. They seemed very mild, and had no arms of any kind,
if we except some small stones, which they had evidently brought for
their own defence, and these they threw overboard when they found that
they were not wanted.
Seeing no signs of an anchoring-place at this eastern extreme of the
island, I bore away to leeward, and ranged along the S.E. side, at the
distance of half a league from the shore. As soon as we made sail the
canoes left us; but others came off as we proceeded along the coast,
bringing with them roasting-pigs, and some very fine potatoes, which
they had exchanged, as the others had done, for whatever was offered
to them. Several small pigs were purchased for a sixpenny nail, so
that we again found ourselves in a land of plenty, and just at
the time when the turtle, which we had so fortunately procured at
Christmas Island, were nearly expended. We passed several villages,
some seated near the sea, and others farther up the country. The
inhabitants of all of them crowded to the shore, and collected
themselves on the elevated places to view the ships. The land upon
this side of the island rises in a gentle slope, from the sea to the
foot of the mountains, which occupy the centre of the country, except
at one place near the east end, where they rise directly from the
sea, and seemed to be formed of nothing but stone, or rocks lying in
horizontal _strata_. We saw no wood but what was up in the interior
part of the island, except a few trees about the villages, near
which, also, we could observe several plantations of plantains and
sugar-canes, and spots that seemed cultivated for roots.
We continued to sound, without striking ground with a line of fifty
fathoms, till we came abreast of a low point, which is about the
middle of the east side of the island, or rather nearer the N.W. end.
Here we met with twelve and fourteen fathoms over a rocky bottom.
Being past this point, from which the coast trended more northerly,
we had twenty, then sixteen, twelve, and, at last, five fathoms over
a sandy bottom. The last soundings were about a mile from the shore.
Night now put a stop to any farther researches, and we spent it
standing off and on. The next morning we stood in for the land, and
were met by several canoes filled with people, some of whom took
courage and ventured on board.
In the course of my several voyages I never before met with the
natives of any place so much astonished, as these people were upon
entering a ship. Their eyes were continually flying from object to
object; the wildness of their looks and gestures fully expressing
their entire ignorance about every thing they saw, and strongly
marking to us, that, till now, they had never been visited by
Europeans, nor been acquainted with any of our commodities, except
iron; which, however, it was plain, they had only heard of, or had
known it in some small quantity, brought to them at some distant
period. They seemed only to understand that it was a substance much
better adapted to the purposes of cutting or of boring of holes, than
any thing their own country produced. They asked for it by the name
of _hamaite_, probably referring to some instrument, in the making of
which iron could be usefully employed; for they applied that name to
the blade of a knife, though we could be certain that they had no
idea of that particular instrument, nor could they at all handle it
properly. For the same reason they frequently called iron by the name
of _toe_, which, in their language, signifies a hatchet, or rather a
kind of adze. On asking them what iron was, they immediately answered,
"We do not know; you know what it is, and we only understand it as
_toe_, or _hamaite_." When we shewed them some beads, they asked
first, "What they were;" and then "whether they should eat them."
But on their being told that they were to be hung in their ears,
they returned them as useless. They were equally indifferent as to a
looking-glass, which was offered them, and returned it for the same
reason; but sufficiently expressed their desire for _hamaite_ and
_toe_, which they wished might be very large. Plates of earthen-ware,
china-cups, and other such things, were so new to them, that they
asked if they were made of wood, but wished to have some, that
they might carry them to be looked at on shore. They were, in some
respects, naturally well-bred; or, at least, fearful of giving
offence, asking whether they should sit down, whether they should
spit upon the deck, and the like. Some of them repeated a long prayer
before they came on board; and others afterward sung and made motions
with their hands, such as we had been accustomed to see in the dances
of the islands we had lately visited. There was another circumstance
in which they also perfectly resembled those other islanders. At
first, on their entering the ship, they endeavoured to steal every
thing they came near, or rather to take it openly, as what we either
should not resent, or not hinder. We soon convinced them of their
mistake; and if they, after some time, became less active in
appropriating to themselves whatever they took a fancy to, it was
because they found that we kept a watchful eye over them.
At nine o'clock, being pretty near the shore, I sent three armed
boats, under the command of Lieutenant Williamson, to look for a
landing-place, and for fresh water. I ordered him, that if he should
find it necessary to land in search of the latter, not to suffer
more than one man to go with him out of the boats. Just as they
were putting off from the ship, one of the natives having stole the
butcher's cleaver, leaped overboard, got into his canoe, and hastened
to the shore, the boats pursuing him in vain.
The order not to permit the crews of the boats to go on shore was
issued, that I might do every thing in my power to prevent the
importation of a fatal disease into this island, which I knew some of
our men now laboured under, and which, unfortunately, had been already
communicated by us to other islands in these seas. With the same view
I ordered all female visitors to be excluded from the ships. Many of
them had come off in the canoes. Their size, colour, and features did
not differ much from those of the men; and though their countenances
were remarkably open and agreeable, there were few traces of delicacy
to be seen, either in their faces, or other proportions. The only
difference in their dress was their having a piece of cloth about
the body, reaching from near the middle to half-way down the thighs,
instead of the _maro_ worn by the other sex. They would as readily
have favoured us with their company on board as the men; but I wished
to prevent all connection, which might, too probably, convey an
irreparable injury to themselves, and, through their means, to the
whole nation. Another necessary precaution was taken, by strictly
enjoining, that no person known to be capable of propagating the
infection, should be sent upon duty out of the ships.
Whether these regulations, dictated by humanity, had the desired
effect or no, time only can discover. I had been equally attentive
to the same object, when I first visited the Friendly Islands, yet I
afterwards found, with real concern, that I had not succeeded. And I
am much afraid that this will always be the case in such voyages as
ours, whenever it is necessary to have a number of people on shore.
The opportunities and inducements to an intercourse between the sexes
are then too numerous to be guarded against; and, however confident we
may be of the health of our men, we are often undeceived too late. It
is even a matter of doubt with me, if it be always in the power of the
most skilful of the faculty to pronounce, with any certainty, whether
a person who has been under their care, in certain stages of this
malady, is so effectually cured, as to leave no possibility of his
being still capable of communicating the taint. I think I could
mention some instances which justify my presuming to hazard this
opinion. It is likewise well known, that amongst a number of men,
there are, generally, to be found some so bashful as to endeavour to
conceal their labouring under any symptoms of this disorder. And
there are others again, so profligate, as not to care to whom they
communicate it. Of this last we had an instance at Tongataboo, in the
gunner of the Discovery, who had been stationed on shore to manage
the trade for that ship. After he knew that he had contracted this
disease, he continued to have connections with different women,
who were supposed not to have already contracted it. His companions
expostulated with him without effect, till Captain Clerke, hearing of
this dangerous irregularity of conduct, ordered him on board.[1]
[Footnote 1: One can scarcely help smiling at the mode Dr Kippis uses
to express his abhorrence of this man's conduct. It may be seen in
his account of this voyage, given in the Biog. Brit. "If I knew the
rascal's name," says he, "I would hang it up, as far as lies in my
power, to everlasting infamy!" Undoubtedly it richly deserved such
treatment, but there was no necessity for the doctor exhibiting such
keenness for the office of executioner.--E.]
While the boats were occupied in examining the coast, we stood on
and off with the ships, waiting for their return. About noon, Mr
Williamson came back, and reported that he had seen a large pond
behind a beach near one of the villages, which the natives told him
contained fresh water, and that there was anchoring-ground before it.
He also reported that he had attempted to land in another place, but
was prevented by the natives, who, coming down to the boats in great
numbers, attempted to take away the oars, musquets, and, in short,
every thing that they could lay hold of, and pressed so thick upon
him, that he was obliged to fire, by which one man was killed. But
this unhappy circumstance I did not know till after we had left the
island, so that all my measures were directed as if nothing of the
kind had happened. Mr Williamson told me, that after the man fell,
his countrymen took him up, carried him off, and then retired from
the boat; but still they made signals for our people to land, which he
declined. It did not appear to Mr Williamson, that the natives had
any design to kill, or even to hurt, any of his party; but they seemed
excited by mere curiosity, to get from them what they had, being, at
the same time, ready to give in return, any thing of their own.
After the boats were on board, I dispatched one of them to lie in the
best anchoring-ground; and as soon as she had got to this station, I
bore down with the ships, and anchored in twenty-five fathoms water,
the bottom a fine grey sand. The east point of the road, which was the
low point before-mentioned, bore S. 51° E., the west point N. 65° W.,
and the village, behind which the water was said to be, N.E. by E.,
distant one mile. But, little more than a quarter of a mile from us,
there were breakers, which I did not see till after the Resolution was
placed. The Discovery anchored to the eastward of us, and farther
from the land. The ships being thus stationed, between three and four
o'clock, I went ashore with three armed boats, and twelve marines,
to examine the water, and to try the disposition of the inhabitants,
several hundreds of whom were assembled on a sandy beach before
the village; behind it was a narrow valley, the bottom of which was
occupied by the piece of water.
The very instant I leaped on shore, the collected body of the natives
all fell flat upon their faces, and remained in that very humble
posture, till, by expressive signs, I prevailed upon them to rise.
They then brought a great many small pigs, which they presented to me,
with plantain trees, using much the same ceremonies that we had seen
practised on such occasions, at the Society and other islands; and a
long prayer being spoken by a single person, in which others of
the assembly sometimes joined. I expressed my acceptance of their
proffered friendship, by giving them, in return, such presents as
I had brought with me from the ship for that purpose. When this
introductory business was finished, I stationed a guard upon the
beach, and got some of the natives to conduct me to the water, which
proved to be very good, and in a proper situation for our purpose.
It was so considerable, that it may be called a lake; and it extended
farther up the country than we could see. Having satisfied myself
about this very essential point, and about the peaceable disposition
of the natives, I returned on board, and then gave orders that every
thing should be in readiness for landing and filling our water-casks
in the morning, when I went ashore with the people employed in that
service, having a party of marines with us for a guard, who were
stationed on the beach.
As soon as we landed, a trade was set on foot for hogs and potatoes,
which the people of the island gave us in exchange for nails and
pieces of iron, formed into something like chisels. We met with no
obstruction in watering; on the contrary, the natives assisted our
men in rolling the casks to and from the pool, and readily performed
whatever we required. Every thing thus going on to my satisfaction,
and considering my presence on the spot as unnecessary, I left
the command to Mr Williamson, who had landed with me, and made an
excursion into the country, up the valley, accompanied by Mr Anderson
and Mr Webber; the former of whom was as well qualified to describe
with the pen, as the latter was to represent with his pencil, every
thing we might meet with worthy of observation. A numerous train of
natives followed us; and one of them, whom I had distinguished for his
activity in keeping the rest in order, I made choice of as our guide.
This man, from time to time, proclaimed our approach; and every one
whom we met, fell prostrate upon the ground, and remained in that
position till we had passed. This, as I afterward understood, is the
mode of paying their respect to their own great chiefs. As we ranged
down the coast from the east, in the ships, we had observed at every
village one or more elevated white objects, like pyramids or other
obelisks; and one of these, which I guessed to be at least fifty feet
high, was very conspicuous from the ship's anchoring station, and
seemed to be at no great distance up this valley. To have a nearer
inspection of it, was the principal object of my walk. Our guide
perfectly understood that we wished to be conducted to it. But it
happened to be so placed, that we could not get at it, being separated
from us by the pool of water. However, there being another of the same
kind within our reach, about half a mile off, upon our side of the
valley, we set out to visit that. The moment we got to it, we saw that
it stood in a burying-ground, or _morai_, the resemblance of which,
in many respects to those we were so well acquainted with at other
islands in this ocean, and particularly Otaheite, could not but strike
us; and we also soon found, that the several parts that compose it,
were called by the same names. It was an oblong space, of considerable
extent, surrounded by a wall of stone, about four feet high. The space
inclosed was loosely paved with smaller stones; and at one end of it,
stood what I call the pyramid, but, in the language of the island, is
named _henananoo_, which appeared evidently to be an exact model of
the larger one, observed by us from the ships. It was about four feet
square at the base, and about twenty feet high. The four sides were
composed of small poles interwoven with twigs and branches, thus
forming an indifferent wicker-work, hollow or open within, from bottom
to top. It seemed to be rather in a ruinous state; but there were
sufficient remaining marks to shew that it had originally been covered
with a thin light grey cloth, which these people, it would seem,
consecrate to religions purposes, as we could see a good deal of it
hanging in different parts of the _morai_, and some of it had been
forced upon me when I first landed. On each side of the pyramid were
long pieces of wicker-work, called _hereanee_, in the same ruinous
condition, with two slender poles, inclining to each other, at one
corner, where some plantains were laid upon a board, fixed at the
height of five or six feet. This they called _herairemy_; and informed
us, that the fruit was an offering to their god, which makes it agree
exactly with the _whatta_ of Otaheite. Before the _henananoo_ were a
few pieces of wood, carved into something like human figures, which,
with a stone near two feet high, covered with pieces of cloth, called
_hoho_, and consecrated to _Tongarooa_, who is the god of these
people, still more and more reminded us of what we used to meet with
in the _morais_ of the islands we had lately left. Adjoining to these,
on the outside of the _morai_, was a small shed, no bigger than a
dog-kennel, which they called _hareepahoo_; and before it was a grave,
where, as we were told, the remains of a woman lay.
On the farther side of the area of the _morai_, stood a house or
shed, about forty feet long, ten broad in the middle, each end being
narrower, and about ten feet high. This, which, though much longer,
was lower than their common dwelling places, we were informed, was
called _hemanaa_. The entrance into it was at the middle of the side,
which was in the _morai_. On the farther side of this house, opposite
the entrance, stood two wooden images, cut out of one piece, with
pedestals, in all about three feet high, neither very indifferently
designed or executed. These were said to be _Eatooa no Veheina_, or
representations of goddesses. On the head of one of them was a carved
helmet, not unlike those worn, by the ancient warriors; and on that of
the other, a cylindrical cap, resembling the head-dress at Otaheite,
called _tomou_; and both of them had pieces of cloth tied about the
loins, and hanging a considerable way down. At the side of each, was
also a piece of carved wood, with bits of the cloth hung on them, in
the same manner; and between, or before, the pedestals, lay a quantity
of fern, in a heap. It was obvious, that this had been deposited
there, piece by piece, and at different times; for there was of it, in
all states, from what was quite decayed, to what was still fresh and
green.
In the middle of the house, and before the two images, was an oblong
space, inclosed by a low edging of stone, and covered with shreds of
the cloth so often mentioned. This, on enquiry, we found was the grave
of seven chiefs, whose names were enumerated, and the place was called
_Heneene_. We had met already with so many striking instances of
resemblance, between the burying-place we were now visiting, and those
of the islands we had lately come from in the South Pacific, that we
had little doubt in our minds, that the resemblance existed also, in
the ceremonies practised here, and particularly in the horrid one of
offering human sacrifices. Our suspicions were too soon confirmed by
direct evidence. For, on coming out of the house, just on one side
of the entrance, we saw a small square place, and another still less,
near it; and on asking what these were, our guide immediately informed
us, that in the one was buried a man who had been sacrificed; a
_Taa-ta_ (_Tanata_ or _Tangata_, in this country) _taboo_ (_tafoo_, as
here pronounced); and in the other, a hog, which had also been made
an offering to the divinity. At a little distance from these, near
the middle of the _morai_, were three more of these square inclosed
places, with two pieces of carved wood at each, and upon them a heap
of fern. These, we were told, were the graves of three chiefs; and
before them was an oblong, inclosed space, to which our conductor also
gave the name of _Tangata taboo_; telling us, so explicitly, that we
could not mistake his meaning, that three human sacrifices had been
buried there; that is, one at the funeral of each chief. It was with
most sincere concern, that I could trace, on such undoubted evidence,
the prevalence of these bloody rites, throughout this immense ocean,
amongst people disjoined by such a distance, and even ignorant of each
other's existence, though so strongly marked as originally of the same
nation. It was no small addition to this concern, to reflect, that
every appearance led us to believe, that the barbarous practice was
very general here. The island seemed to abound with such places of
sacrifice as this which we were now visiting, and which appeared to
be one of the most inconsiderable of them, being far less conspicuous
than several others which we had seen, as we sailed along the coast,
and particularly than that on the opposite side of the water, in
this valley, the white _henananoo_, or pyramid, of which, we were now
almost sure, derived its colour only from pieces of the consecrated
cloth laid over it. In several parts, within the inclosure of this
burying-ground, were planted trees of the _cordia sebestina_ some
of the _morinda citrifolia_, and several plants of the _etee_, or
_jeejee_, of Tongataboo, with the leaves of which the _hemanaa_ was
thatched; and, as I observed, that this plant was not made use of in
thatching their dwelling-houses, probably it is reserved entirely for
religious purposes.
Our road to and from the _morai_, which I have described, lay through
the plantations. The greatest part of the ground was quite flat, with
ditches full of water intersecting different parts, and roads that
seemed artificially raised to some height. The interspaces were, in
general, planted with _taro_, which grows here with great strength, as
the fields are sunk below the common level, so as to contain the water
necessary to nourish the roots. This water probably comes from the
same source, which supplies the large pool from which we filled
our casks. On the drier spaces were several spots, where the
cloth-mulberry was planted, in regular rows; also growing vigorously,
and kept very clean. The cocoa-trees were not in so thriving a state,
and were all low, but the plantain-trees made a better appearance,
though they were not large. In general, the trees round this village,
and which were seen at many of those which we passed before we
anchored, are the _cordia sebestina_, but of a more diminutive size
than the product of the southern isles. The greatest part of the
village stands near the beach, and consists of above sixty houses
there; but, perhaps, about forty more stand scattered about, farther
up the country, toward the burying-place.
After we had examined, very carefully, every thing that was to be seen
about the _morai_, and Mr Webber had taken drawings of it, and of the
adjoining country, we returned by a different route. I found a great
crowd assembled at the beach, and a brisk trade for pigs, fowls, and
roots, going on there, with the greatest good order, though I did not
observe any particular person, who took the lead amongst the rest of
his countrymen. At noon, I went on board to dinner, and then sent
Mr King to command the party ashore. He was to have gone upon that
service in the morning, but was then detained in the ship, to make
lunar observations. In the afternoon I landed again, accompanied by
Captain Clerke, with a view to make another excursion up the country.
But, before this could be put in execution, the day was too far spent,
so that I laid aside my intention for the present, and it so happened
that I had not another opportunity. At sun-set, I brought every body
on board, having procured, in the course of the day, nine tons of
water; and, by exchanges, chiefly for nails and pieces of iron, about
seventy or eighty pigs, a few fowls, a quantity of potatoes, and a
few plantains and _taro_ roots. These people merited our best
commendations, in this commercial intercourse, never once attempting
to cheat us, either ashore or alongside the ships. Some of
them, indeed, as already mentioned, at first betrayed a thievish
disposition, or rather they thought, that they had a right to every
thing they could lay their hands upon; but they soon laid aside a
conduct, which, we convinced them, they could not persevere in with
impunity.
Amongst the articles which they brought to barter this day, we could
not help taking notice of a particular sort of cloak and cap, which,
even in countries where dress is more particularly attended to, might
be reckoned elegant. The first are nearly of the size and shape of
the short cloaks worn by the women in England, and by the men in
Spain reaching to the middle of the back, and tied loosely before. The
ground of them is a net-work, upon which the most beautiful red
and yellow feathers are so closely fixed, that the surface might be
compared to the thickest and richest velvet, which they resemble, both
as to the feel, and the glossy appearance. The manner of varying the
mixture is very different, some having triangular spaces of red and
yellow, alternately, others a kind of crescent; and some, that were
entirely red, had a broad yellow border, which made them appear, at
some distance, exactly like a scarlet cloak edged with gold lace. The
brilliant colours of the feathers, in those that happened to be new,
added not a little to their fine appearance, and we found that they
were in high estimation with their owners, for they would not, at
first, part with one of them for any thing that we offered, asking no
less a price than a musket. However, some were afterward purchased for
very large nails. Such of them as were of the best sort, were scarce;
and it should seem, that they are only used on the occasion of some
particular ceremony, or diversion; for the people who had them, always
made some gesticulations, which we had seen used before by those who
sung.
The cap is made almost exactly like a helmet, with the middle part, or
crest, sometimes of a hand's breadth; and it sits very close upon the
head, having notches to admit the ears. It is a frame of twigs and
osiers, covered with a net work, into which are wrought feathers, in
the same manner as upon the cloaks, though rather closer, and less
diversified, the greater part being red, with some black yellow,
or green stripes on the sides, following the curve direction of the
crest. These, probably, complete the dress, with the cloaks, for the
natives sometimes appeared in both together.
We were at a loss to guess from whence they could get such a quantity
of these beautiful feathers, but were soon informed as to one sort,
for they afterward brought great numbers of skins of small red birds
for sale, which were often tied up in bunches of twenty or more, or
had a small wooden skewer run through their nostrils. At the first,
those that were bought, consisted only of the skin from behind
the wings forward, but we afterwards got many with the hind part,
including the tail and feet. The first, however, struck us at once
with the origin of the fable formerly adopted, of the birds of
paradise wanting legs, and sufficiently explained that circumstance.
Probably the people of the islands east of the Moluccas, from whence
the skins of the birds of paradise are brought, cut off their feet,
for the very reason assigned by the people of Atooi, for the like
practice, which was, that they thereby can preserve them with greater
ease, without losing any part which they reckon valuable. The red-bird
of our island was judged by Mr Anderson to be a species of _merops_,
about the size of a sparrow, of a beautiful scarlet colour, with a
black tail and wings, and an arched bill, twice the length of the
head, which, with the feet, was also of a reddish colour. The contents
of the heads were taken out, as in the birds of paradise; but it did
not appear that they used any other method to preserve them, than by
simple drying, for the skins, though moist, had neither a taste
nor smell that could give room to suspect the use of antiputrescent
substances.[2]
[Footnote 2: It is matter of real curiosity to observe, how very
extensively the predilection for red feathers is spread throughout
all the islands of the Pacific Ocean; and the additional circumstance,
mentioned in this paragraph, will, probably, be looked upon by those
who amuse themselves in tracing the wonderful migrations of the same
family, or tribe, as a confirmation of that hypothesis, (built indeed
on other instances of resemblance,) which considers New Guinea, and
its neighbouring East India islands, from whence the Dutch bring
their birds of Paradise, as originally peopled by the same race, which
Captain Cook found at every island from New Zealand to this new group,
to which Atooi belongs.
What Mr Sonnerat tells us, about the bird of Paradise, agrees
perfectly with the account here given of the preserved red-birds.
Speaking of the _Papous_, he proceeds thus: "Ils nous présenterent
plusieurs especes d'oiseaux, aussi élégants par leur forme, que
brillants par l'éclat de leur couleurs. La dépouille des oiseaux sert
à la parure des Chefs, qui la portent attachée à leurs bonnets en
forme d'aigrettes. _Mais en preparant les peaux, ils coupent les
pieds_. Les Hollandois, qui trafiquent sur ces cotes, y achetent de
ces peaux ainsi préparées, les transportent en Perse, à Surate, dans
les Indes, où ils les vendent fort chère aux habitans riches, qui
en font des aigrettes pour leurs turbans, et pour le casque des
guerriers, et qui en parent leur chevaux. C'est de là qu'est venue
l'opinion, qu'une de ces especes d'oiseaux (l'oiseau de pardis) _n'a
point de pattes_. Les Hollandois ont accrédité ces fables, qui, en
jettant du merveilleux sur l'objet dont ils traffiquoient,
étoient propres à le rendre plus précieux, et á en rechausser la
valeur."--Voyage à la Nouvelle Guinée, p. 154.--D.]
In the night, and all the morning, on the 22d, it rained almost
continually. The wind was at S.E., S.S.E., and S., which brought in a
short, chopping sea; and as there were breakers little more than two
cables length from the stern of our ship, her situation was none of
the safest. The surf broke so high against the shore, that we could
not land in our boats; but the day was not wholly lost, for the
natives ventured in their canoes, to bring off to the ships hogs and
roots, which they bartered as before. One of our visitors, on this
occasion, who offered some fish-hooks to sale, was observed to have
a very small parcel, tied to the string of one of them, which he
separated with great care, and reserved for himself, when he parted
with the hook. Being asked what it was, he pointed to his belly, and
spoke something of its being dead, at the same time saying, it was
bad, as if he did not wish to answer any more questions about it. On
seeing him so anxious to conceal the contents of this parcel, he was
requested to open it, which he did with great reluctance and some
difficulty, as it was wrapped up in many folds of cloth. We found that
it contained a thin bit of flesh, about two inches long, which, to
appearance, had been dried, but was now wet with salt water. It
struck us, that it might be human flesh, and that these people might,
perhaps, eat their enemies, as we knew that this was the practice of
some of the natives of the South Sea islands. The question being put
to the person who produced it, he answered, that the flesh was part
of a man. Another of his countrymen, who stood by him, was then asked,
whether it was their custom to eat those killed in battle? and he
immediately answered in the affirmative.
There were some intervals of fair weather in the afternoon, and the
wind then inclined to the E. and N.E. but, in the evening, it veered
back again to S.S.E., and the rain also returned, and continued all
night. Very luckily, it was not attended with much wind. We had,
however, prepared for the worst, by dropping the small bower-anchor,
and striking our top-gallant-yards.
At seven o'clock the next morning, a breeze of wind springing up at
N.E., I took up the anchors, with a view of removing the ship farther
out. The moment that the last anchor was up, the wind veered to the
E., which made it necessary to set all the sail we could, in order to
clear the shore; so that, before we had tolerable sea-room, we were
driven some distance to leeward. We made a stretch off, with a view
to regain the road; but having very little wind, and a strong current
against us, I found that this was not to be effected. I therefore
dispatched Messrs King and Williamson ashore, with three boats, for
water, and to trade for refreshments. At the same time, I sent an
order to Captain Clerke to put to sea after me, if he should see
that I could not recover the road. Being in hopes of finding one,
or perhaps a harbour, at the west end of the island, I was the less
anxious about getting back to my former station. But as I had sent
the boats thither, we kept to windward as much as possible,
notwithstanding which, at noon, we were three leagues to leeward. As
we drew near the west end of the island, we found the coast to round
gradually to the N.E., without forming a creek, or cove, to shelter a
vessel from the force of the swell, which rolled in from the N.,
and broke upon the shore in a prodigious surf, so that all hopes of
finding a harbour here vanished.
Several canoes came off in the morning, and followed us as we stood
out to sea, bartering their roots and other articles. Being very
averse to believe these people to be cannibals, notwithstanding the
suspicious circumstance which had happened the day before, we took
occasion now to make some more enquiries about this. A small wooden
instrument, beset with sharks teeth, had been purchased; and from its
resemblance to the saw or knife used by the New Zealanders, to dissect
the bodies of their enemies, it was suspected to have the same use
here. One of the natives being asked about this, immediately gave the
name of the instrument, and told us, that it was used to cut out the
fleshy part of the belly, when any person was killed. This explained
and confirmed the circumstance above-mentioned, of the person pointing
to his belly. The man, however, from whom we now had this information,
being asked, if his countrymen eat the part thus cut out? denied it
strongly, but, upon the question being repeated, shewed some degree of
fear, and swam to his canoe. Just before he reached it, he made signs,
as he had done before, expressive of the use of the instrument. And an
old man, who sat foremost in the canoe, being then asked whether they
eat the flesh? answered in the affirmative, and laughed, seemingly
at the simplicity of such a question. He affirmed the fact, on being
asked again; and also said, it was excellent food, or, as he expressed
it, "savoury eating."[3]
[Footnote 3: Of this there can be no doubt, if the assertions of those
who have tried it be entitled to credit. When the reluctance, then, to
use it is once overcome, there is no reason to think it would ever be
abandoned, if it could be safely and conveniently procured. We have
instances of this on record. Some persons necessitated, let us allow,
to have recourse to it, have continued the practice, where the doing
so required the repeated commission of murder. We formerly alluded to
instances of this kind, and we see in the case of the people before
us, that hunger is not the only motive for so abominable a repast.
Admitting even that it were the original one, we should expect the
practice to be relinquished whenever other food was to be had in
sufficient quantity. But this we know by many proofs is not the case;
and perhaps, indeed, it will be found, that this odium is fully as
prevalent in savage countries, where nature has been bountiful, as
in those where a more stinted hand has inflicted poverty on the
inhabitants. The causes, then, and the remedies of this most shocking
enormity, are to be looked for in other circumstances than the
scarcity or the profusion of food. Here we may be allowed to join in
opinion with Dr Robertson. "Human flesh was never used as common
food in any country, and the various relations concerning people
who reckoned it among the stated means of subsistence, flow from the
credulity and mistakes of travellers. The rancour of revenge first
prompted men to this barbarous action." In addition to his opinion and
that of the authors quoted by him, in his History of America, lib. 4,
the reader may advantageously consult Dr Forster's Observations. If
the sentiments maintained by these writers be correct, we may expect
to find cannibalism in almost every country where the spirit of
revenge is not curbed by principle, or directed by the authority of a
well-organized government. Here the evidence of these voyages and
of others which we could mention, must be allowed considerable
importance. There is the strongest reason, indeed, to believe that the
inhabitants of all the South Sea islands are now chargeable with this
inhumanity, or are but recently recovered from its dominion. We
might easily enlarge on this subject, but what has been said, it is
probable, is sufficient to direct the attention of the reader, which
is all we could find, room to do in the narrow compass of a note.
But it is probable, that to most persons, the observations of a late
navigator, Captain Krusenstern, will be admitted as decisive of the
question of fact, without further enquiry. They may have another
effect too, viz. to destroy that delusion which many persons labour
under as to the innocence and amiableness of mankind in a state of
nature. "Notwithstanding," says he, "the favourable account in Captain
Cook's voyages of the Friendly, the Society, and the Sandwich islands,
and the enthusiasm with which Forster undertakes their defence against
all those who should make use of any harsh expression with regard
to them, I cannot refrain from declaring the inhabitants of all the
islands of this ocean to be savages, but as ranking generally, perhaps
with a very trifling exception, with those men who are still one
degree below the brute creation. In a word, they are all cannibals:
We need only recollect the islanders who have already been proved to
belong to this class;--for instance, the New Zealanders, the cruel
inhabitants of Fidji, the Navigateur, the Mendoza, Washington, the
Tolomon, and Sandwich islands, the islands of Louisiade and New
Caledonia. The good name which the inhabitants of the Friendly islands
had acquired has suffered very much by the affair of Captain Bligh,
and the visit of D'Entrecasteaux, and it may now be maintained, with
some degree of certainty, that they have in this respect the same
taste as their neighbours in the Fidji islands, and the Isles des
Navigateurs." He has more to the same effect, and is particular in
shewing how even the Society islanders, whom he admits to be the
most humane and civilized of all the natives of this region, are
notwithstanding deformed with horrid crimes, from which the passage
to cannibalism is very easy, supposing even that certain suspicious
circumstances do not warrant the opinion that they are but recently
emerged from it. And as to the people of New Caledonia, again, of whom
Cook spoke so highly, he alludes to the more recent information of
D'Entrecasteaux, as giving indisputable proof of their being addicted
to the same abominable enormity.--E.]
At seven o'clock in the evening, the boats returned, with two tons of
water, a few hogs, a quantity of plantains, and some roots. Mr King
informed me, that a great number of the inhabitants were at the
watering or landing place. He supposed that they had come from all
parts of the island. They had brought with them a great many fine fat
hogs to barter, but my people had not commodities with them equal to
the purchase. This, however, was no great loss, for we had already
got as many on board as we could well manage for immediate use, and,
wanting the materials, we could not have salted them. Mr King also
told me, that a great deal of rain had fallen ashore, whereas, out
at sea, we had only a few showers; and that the surf had run so high,
that it was with great difficulty our men landed, and got back into
the boats.
We had light airs and calms, by turns, with showers of rain, all
night, and at day-break, in the morning of the 24th, we found that the
currents had carried the ship to the N.W. and N., so that the west end
of the island, upon which we had been, called Atooi by the natives,
bore E., one league distant; another island, called Oreehoua, W. by
S., and the high land of a third island, called Oneeheow, from S.W. by
W. to W.S.W. Soon after, a breeze sprung up at N.; and, as I expected
that this would bring the Discovery to sea, I steered for Oneeheow,
in order to take a nearer view of it, and to anchor there, if I should
find a convenient place. I continued to steer for it, till past eleven
o'clock, at which time we were about two leagues from it. But not
seeing the Discovery, and being doubtful whether they could see us, I
was fearful lest some ill consequence might attend our separating
so far. I therefore gave up the design of visiting Oneeheow for the
present, and stood back to Atooi, with an intent to anchor again in
the road, to complete our water. At two o'clock in the afternoon, the
northerly wind died away, and was succeeded by variable light airs and
calms, that continued till eleven at night, with which we stretched
to the S.E., till day-break in the morning of the 25th, when we tacked
and stood in for Atooi road, which bore about N. from us; and, soon
after, we were joined by the Discovery.
We fetched in with the land about two leagues to leeward of the road,
which, though so near, we never could recover, for what we gained at
one time, we lost at another; so that, by the morning of the 29th, the
currents had carried us westward, within three leagues of Oneeheow.
Being tired with plying so unsuccessfully, I gave up all thoughts of
getting back to Atooi, and came to the resolution of trying, whether
we could not procure what we wanted at the other island, which was
within our reach. With this view, I sent the master in a boat, to
sound the coast, to look out for a landing-place, and, if he should
find one, to examine if fresh water could be conveniently got in
its neighbourhood. To give him time to execute his commission, we
followed, under an easy sail, with the ships. As soon as we were
abreast, or to the westward of the south point of Oneeheow, we found
thirty, twenty-five, and twenty fathoms water, over a bottom of coral
sand, a mile from the shore.
At ten o'clock the master returned, and reported that he had landed in
one place, but could find no fresh water; and that there was anchorage
all along the coast. Seeing a village a little farther to leeward, and
some of the islanders, who had come off to the ships, informing us,
that fresh water might be got there, I ran down, and came to an anchor
before it, in twenty-six fathoms water, about three quarters of a mile
from the shore. The S.E. point of the island bore S. 65° E., three
miles distant; the other extreme of the island bore N. by E., about
two or three miles distant; a peaked hill, inland, N.E. 1/4 E.; and
another island, called Tahoora, which was discovered the preceding
evening, bore S. 61° W., distant seven leagues.
Six or seven canoes had come off to us, before we anchored, bringing
some small pigs and potatoes, and a good many yams and mats. The
people in them resembled those of Atooi, and seemed to be equally
well acquainted with the use of iron, which they asked for also by
the names of _hamaite_ and _toe_, parting readily with all their
commodities for pieces of this precious metal. Several more canoes
soon reached the ships, after they had anchored; but the natives in
these seemed to have no other object, than to pay us a formal visit.
Many of them came readily on board, crouching down upon the deck, and
not quitting that humble posture, till they were desired to get up.
They had brought several females with them, who remained alongside in
the canoes, behaving with far less modesty than their countrywomen of
Atooi; and, at times, all joining in a song, not remarkable for its
melody, though performed in very exact concert, by beating time upon
their breasts with their hands. The men who had come on board did
not stay long; and before they departed, some of them requested our
permission to lay down, on the deck, locks of their hair.
These visitors furnished us with an opportunity of agitating again,
this day, the curious enquiry, whether they were cannibals; and the
subject did not take its rise from any questions of ours, but from
a circumstance that seemed to remove all ambiguity. One of the
islanders, who wanted to get in at the gun-room port, was refused, and
at the same time asked, whether, if he should come in, we would kill
and eat him? accompanying this question with signs so expressive, that
there could be no doubt about his meaning. This gave a proper opening
to retort the question as to this practice; and a person behind the
other, in the canoe, who paid great attention to what was passing,
immediately answered, that if we were killed on shore, they would
certainly eat us. He spoke with so little emotion, that it appeared
plainly to be his meaning, that they would not destroy us for that
purpose, but that their eating us would be the consequence of our
being at enmity with them. I have availed myself of Mr Anderson's
collections for the decision of this matter, and am sorry to say,
that I cannot see the least reason to hesitate in pronouncing it to
be certain, that the horrid banquet of human flesh is as much relished
here, amidst plenty, as it is in New Zealand.
In the afternoon, I sent Lieutenant Gore, with three armed boats, to
look for the most convenient landing-place; and, when on shore, to
search for fresh water. In the evening he returned, having landed
at the village above-mentioned, and acquainted me that he had been
conducted to a well half a mile up the country; but, by his account,
the quantity of water it contained was too inconsiderable for our
purpose, and the road leading to it exceedingly bad.
On the 30th, I sent Mr Gore ashore again, with a guard of marines, and
a party to trade with the natives for refreshments. I intended to have
followed soon after, and went from the ship with that design. But the
surf had increased so much by this time, that I was fearful, if I got
ashore, I should not be able to get off again. This really happened to
our people who had landed with Mr Gore, the communication between them
and the ships, by our own boats, being stopped. In the evening, they
made a signal for the boats, which were sent accordingly; and, not
long after, they returned with a few yams and some salt. A tolerable
quantity of both had been procured in the course of the day; but the
surf was so great, that the greatest part of both these articles had
been lost in conveying them to the boats. The officer and twenty men,
deterred by the danger of coming off, were left ashore all night; and,
by this unfortunate circumstance, the very thing happened, which, as
I have already mentioned, I wished so heartily to prevent, and vainly
imagined I had effectually guarded against. The violence of the surf,
which our own boats could not act against, did not hinder the
natives from coming off to the ships in their canoes. They brought
refreshments with them, which were purchased in exchange for nails,
and pieces of iron-hoops; and I distributed a good many pieces of
ribbon, and some buttons, as bracelets, amongst the women in the
canoes. One of the men had the figure of a lizard punctured upon
his breast, and upon those of others were the figures of men badly
imitated. These visitors informed us, that there was no chief, or
_Hairee_, of this island; but that it was subject to Teneooneoo, a
chief of Atooi; which island, they said, was not governed by a single
chief, but that there were many to whom they paid the honour of
_moe_, or prostration; and, amongst others, they named, Otaeaio and
Terarotoa. Among other things, which these people now brought off, was
a small drum, almost like those of Otaheite.
About ten or eleven o'clock at night, the wind veered to the S., and
the sky seemed to forebode a storm. With such appearances, thinking
that we were rather too near the shore, I ordered the anchors to be
taken up, and having carried the ships into forty-two fathoms, came
to again in that safer station. The precaution, however, proved to
be unnecessary; for the wind, soon after, veered to N.E., from which
quarter it blew a fresh gale, with squalls, attended with very heavy
showers of rain.
This weather continued all the next day; and the sea ran so high, that
we had no manner of communication with our party on shore; and even
the natives themselves durst not venture out to the ships in their
canoes. In the evening, I sent the master in a boat up to the S.E.
head, or point of the island, to try if he could land under it. He
returned with a favourable report; but it was too late, now, to send
for our party till the next morning; and thus they had another night
to improve their intercourse with the natives.
Encouraged by the master's report, I sent a boat to the S.E. point,
as soon as day-light returned, with an order to Mr Gore, that, if
he could not embark his people from the spot where they now were, to
march them up to the point. As the boat could not get to the beach,
one of the crew swam ashore, and carried the order. On the return of
the boat, I went myself with the pinnace and launch up to the point,
to bring the party on board; taking with me a ram-goat and two ewes,
a boar and sow-pig of the English breed, and the seeds of melons,
pumpkins, and onions, being very desirous of benefiting these poor
people, by furnishing them with some additional articles of food. I
landed with the greatest ease, under the west side of the point, and
found my party already there, with some of the natives in company. To
one of them, whom Mr Gore had observed assuming some command over
the rest, I gave the goats, pigs, and seeds. I should have left these
well-intended presents at Atooi, had we not been so unexpectedly
driven from it.
While the people were engaged in filling four water-casks, from a
small stream occasioned by the late rain, I walked a little way up
the country, attended by the man above-mentioned, and followed by two
others carrying the two pigs. As soon as we got upon a rising ground,
I stopped to look round me, and observed a woman, on the opposite side
of the valley where I landed, calling to her countrymen who attended
me. Upon this, the chief began to mutter something which I supposed
was a prayer; and the two men, who carried the pigs, continued to walk
round me all the time, making, at least, a dozen circuits before the
other had finished his oration. This ceremony being performed; we
proceeded, and presently met people coming from all parts, who, on
being called to by my attendants, threw themselves prostrate on their
faces, till I was out of sight. The ground, through which I passed,
was in a state of nature, very stony, and the soil seemed poor. It
was, however, covered with shrubs and plants, some of which perfumed
the air, with a more delicious fragrancy than I had met with at any
other of the islands visited by us in this ocean. Our people, who had
been obliged to remain so long on shore, gave me the same account
of those parts of the island which they had traversed. They met with
several salt ponds, some of which had a little water remaining, but
others had none; and the salt that was left in them was so thin, that
no great quantity could have been procured. There was no appearance of
any running stream; and though they found some small wells, in which
the fresh water was tolerably good, it seemed scarce. The habitations
of the natives were thinly scattered about; and it was supposed, that
there could not be more than five hundred people upon the island, as
the greatest part were seen at the marketing-place of our party, and
few found about the houses by those who walked up the country. They
had an opportunity of observing the method of living amongst the
natives, and it appeared to be decent and cleanly. They did not,
however, see any instance of the men and women eating together; and
the latter seemed generally associated in companies by themselves. It
was found, that they burnt here the oily nuts of the _dooe dooe_ for
lights in the night, as at Otaheite; and that they baked their hogs
in ovens, but, contrary to the practice of the Society and Friendly
Islands, split the carcases through their whole length. They met
with a positive proof of the existence of the _taboo_ (or, as they
pronounce it, the _tafoo_), for one woman fed another who was
under that interdiction. They also observed some other mysterious
ceremonies; one of which was performed by a woman, who took a small
pig, and threw it into the surf, till it was drowned, and then tied up
a bundle of wood, which she also disposed of in the same manner. The
same woman, at another time, beat with a stick upon a man's shoulders,
who sat down for that purpose. A particular veneration seemed to be
paid here to owls, which they have very tame; and it was observed to
be a pretty general practice amongst them, to pull out one of their
teeth;[4] for which odd custom, when asked the reason, the only answer
that could be got was, that it was _teeha_, which was also the reason
assigned for another of their practices, the giving a lock of their
hair.
[Footnote 4: It is very remarkable, that, in this custom, which one
would think is so unnatural, as not to be adopted by two different
tribes, originally unconnected, the people of this island, and
Dampier's natives on the west side of New Holland, at such an immense
distance, should be found to agree.--D.]
After the water-casks had been filled and conveyed into the boat, and
we had purchased from the natives a few roots, a little salt, and some
salted fish, I returned on board with all the people, intending
to visit the island the next day. But, about seven o'clock in the
evening, the anchor of the Resolution started, and she drove off the
bank. As we had a whole cable out, it was some time before the anchor
was at the bows; and then we had the launch to hoist up alongside,
before we could make sail. By this unlucky accident, we found
ourselves, at day-break next morning, three leagues to the leeward of
our last station; and, foreseeing that it would require more time to
recover it than I chose to spend, I made the signal for the Discovery
to weigh and join us. This was done about noon, and we immediately
stood away to the northward, in prosecution of our voyage. Thus, after
spending more time about these islands than was necessary to have
answered all our purposes, we were obliged to leave them before we had
completed our water, and got from them such a quantity of refreshments
as their inhabitants were both able and willing to have supplied
us with. But, as it was, our ship procured from them provisions,
sufficient for three weeks at least; and Captain Clerke, more
fortunate than us, got, of their vegetable productions, a supply that
lasted his people upward of two months. The observations I was enabled
to make, combined with those of Mr Anderson, who was a very useful
assistant on all such occasions, will furnish materials for the next
section.