REMOVAL OF LARGE TREES AND SHRUBS
Probably no garden operation requires more time and labour than the
proper removal of large trees and shrubs from one part of a garden to
another. Time, as it will take two, or even three, days to remove a
large tree to a distance; and labour, as the services of from eight to
twelve men will be required to accomplish the work. It is not,
therefore, an operation to be lightly undertaken or got through in a
hurry.
Before proceeding to describe the various ways of moving large specimen
plants, it will be well to consider the trees and shrubs that are
generally required to be moved. Three numbered lists are given arranged
according to the roots of the shrubs or trees--that is, those that, when
they have stood for some time in one place, are most alike as regards
the way their roots are placed together; and the lists are also some
guide when transplanting, as the chances of life after removal are
greatest in No. 1, less in No. 2, and considerably lower in No. 3.
_No. 1._
Andromeda.
Azalea.
Clethra.
Kalmia.
Rhododendron.
Vaccinium.
_No. 2._
Ailantus.
Alder.
Almond.
Amelanchier.
Ash.
Beech.
Birch.
Box.
Celtis.
Chestnut.
Crataegus.
Elm.
Flowering Cherries.
Hornbeam.
Horse-Chestnut.
Laburnum.
Lime.
Malus.
Maple.
Mulberry.
Oak.
Peach.
Plane.
Poplar.
Pyrus.
Robinia.
Willow.
_No. 3._
Arbutus.
Aucuba.
Bay Laurel.
Carya.
Catalpa.
Cotoneaster.
Diospyros.
Elaeagnus.
Halesia.
Hamamelis.
Hippophae.
Holly.
Liquidambar.
Laurel (Common).
,, (Portugal).
Magnolia.
Osmanthus.
Phillyraea.
Rhamnus.
Styrax.
Tulip Tree.
Viburnum.
Walnut.
Yew.
Coniferae.
It will be noticed that Conifers are mentioned in the third list, and
even in nurseries where they are regularly moved the mortality amongst
them is very high; and the removal of large Conifers should never be
attempted except with a transplanting machine, and expert men to handle
it. As a rule, it will be found cheaper and better to buy young plants
than to attempt the removal of large ones that have stood for some years
without root disturbance. Such flowering shrubs as _Spiraea_,
_Philadelphus_, _Kerria_, _Ribes_, &c., can be safely moved without much
trouble, as they make a mass of roots which will hold a good ball of
soil unless it is very dry. All are practically certain to live if
carefully planted and well watered afterwards.
There are several ways of moving large trees, the simplest and quickest
being by a proper transplanting machine, which consists of a framework
on wheels fitted with a system of rollers and levers. For
moderately-sized trees, say, to about 12 feet high, a two-wheeled
machine is sufficient. This is moved by eight or ten men. For trees
above 12 feet high a four-wheeled machine is required, with two, or
perhaps three, horses to draw it. The first will take a ball of soil
weighing from two to three tons, the latter anything to ten tons, or
even more.
In preparing the tree for the small machine the ball is made round, and
slightly smaller than the width of the machine, a trench being cut round
the tree to a depth of 3 feet or so, the actual depth depending on the
roots, but the soil should be removed a foot lower than the lowest
roots. On no account undermine the ball until the proper depth has been
reached. A proper machine-pick is the best thing to use under the ball,
carefully working out sufficient soil to introduce a board 6 inches wide
and about 1-1/2 inches thick on each side of the ball. The soil
immediately under the centre of the ball should be left intact. When the
boards are in position ropes are passed under them on each side and led
up over the rollers on the machine and fastened, and then by levers the
ropes are rolled up, swinging the plant up cleanly and with a good ball
of soil. Before putting the ropes under, however, a stout piece of
canvas or mat should be tied round the ball with a couple of cords,
between which and the canvas seven or eight pieces of narrow flat board
should be fixed to prevent the cords from cutting the ball. The rear
part of the machine is made to be taken out so that it can be pushed
right over a plant, and it should be run on planks on soft ground.
With the large transplanting machine a ball of soil of almost any size
can be taken, but the method of preparing it is somewhat different. It
should be made nearly square, being rather longer than it is broad. When
the proper depth has been reached make a hole about 2 feet wide under
the centre of the ball, and running entirely through the longer way of
it. Through this hole one, or even two, broad planks 3 inches thick
should be passed. On each end of these, where they project beyond the
ball, a stout plank is laid on edge, and two others placed lengthwise to
fit above the first two. These planks should all be cut to fit tightly
into each other. If necessary, owing to the depth of the ball, another
tier of planks should be placed above the first to insure stability. The
machine is then placed over the plant, and the whole, by means of chains
and levers, is swung up off the ground, and then ready to be taken
anywhere. This machine, however, should only be used by those who have
had experience with it, as it is difficult and cumbersome to handle,
and in the hands of novices is liable to cause serious accidents.
Where no transplanting machine exists, other mechanical contrivances
must be used to move a large tree. Rollers and planks, a low trolley, or
a draw-board, as it is called, are the best. The preparation for removal
is the same for these means as it is for a machine, with the exception
of getting under it, which varies according to the means employed. For
rollers and planks the soil should be worked out directly under the
centre of the ball, and planks put through to form a bed to run the
shrub or tree on. On these a roller should be placed, working the soil
out at the sides so that it is well under the ball, but not going so far
under as to undermine it, and cause it to drop over. Above the roller
put one wide plank to form the bottom of the ball, and by means of a
rope round it the whole can be taken where required. When moving it,
however, it is well to raise the rear half by means of a broad lever or
a lifting-jack, which, in conjunction with a steady pull on the rope,
should start the plant comfortably on its journey.
When a low trolley is used the ball of soil must be firm, and not liable
to break to pieces when handled with reasonable care. Having cut out the
ball to the required depth, work under it all round, merely leaving
enough in the centre to support it. If possible, work off some of the
upper soil to decrease the weight, but this depends entirely upon the
roots, and the way they run. If small roots are plentiful at the top,
little or no soil can be removed, but if they are lower down, then the
upper soil may be removed with advantage. Having worked under the ball,
lay two stout planks under it well packed up to the centre, and then
with two strong poles under the ends of the planks lift the whole on the
trolley. If the work is carefully thought out, it is possible to make
the actual lifting a very small operation by bringing the trolley close
and lowering it considerably.
The draw-board is a handy contrivance for moderate-sized trees or shrubs
which will hold a good ball of soil. It is made in two forms. One
consists of a piece of well-seasoned oak 3 inches thick, and about 3
feet long by 2 to 2-1/2 feet wide at the widest part, from which it
slopes down to a thick end, where a stout swivel-ring is fixed to take a
rope. The other form is a kind of trolley, and consists of a frame 3
feet long by 2 feet wide; it runs on rollers that work on bent irons
fastened to the framework, the whole standing about 4 inches high.
Either of these can be used for moving plants the ball of soil attached
to which is not larger than the board. They will take a heavy plant with
comparative ease, and are especially useful for moving large
Rhododendrons and other American shrubs. To get them under a plant cut
out the ball of soil to the proper depth, and work under it from the
front, that is, the direction in which the plant is to go, keeping the
ball wedged up during the process, _not_ by having a man to pull the
top over, but by using wedges or levers underneath it, until sufficient
soil has been worked out to allow the board to be inserted. When the
board is in position the rope should be passed through the ring and then
around the collar, using a piece of mat to keep it from rubbing the bark
off, and then back through the ring again. It is well to run the board
over planks on soft ground to reduce the labour of pulling.
In putting the tree or shrub into its new position, carefully measure
the size of the ball, and make the hole considerably larger and slightly
deeper, breaking up the bottom well. When the tree or shrub is in
position ram the soil tightly round it until it is about two-thirds
covered, when the hole should be completely filled with water, covering
in the remainder when the water has drained away. The stem must also be
made secure by means of stakes or cords, otherwise wind will cause
damage to the roots.
When the ground is dry under a tree that is to be moved nothing should
be done until it has been thoroughly soaked. To do this a trench 2 feet
deep and as narrow as possible should be taken out all round, and
gradually filled in with water, pouring it in steadily, away from the
ball rather than to it, and persevere with this watering till the ball
of soil under the tree is thoroughly saturated. Leave it for at least
twenty-four hours to drain. Three points must not be forgotten: (1) Wrap
the ball of soil securely round with canvas as soon as possible; (2)
never use the stem of a tree as a lever in moving the ball--this should
always be moved from below, and the stem never touched on any account;
(3) always allow plenty of room for working.
Moving large trees is not easy and must not be lightly undertaken. It
involves much time, labour, and expense, in most cases far more than the
trees are worth. Trees 8 or 10 feet high may be easily moved, but above
that height the work should be done by an expert. Trees and shrubs of
considerable size can be purchased at a moderate price from good tree
nurseries, where they have been regularly transplanted, and if carefully
planted will soon make good specimens.
It is in the planting of trees that so many failures occur as a rule. A
good tree may be obtained, arrive in excellent condition, and yet be
planted in such a way that success is out of the question. The fault, as
a matter of course, is put on the man who supplied the tree, not on the
one who killed it by improper planting. Those who think of moving large
trees or shrubs should not do so until the probable cost has been
considered, and the advice and help obtained of some one who has handled
big trees before. The expert will be able to say if a tree can bear
removal, or whether it is better destroyed, and its place filled with a
young and vigorous specimen from a nursery.