STRASBOURG.
Mrs. Winter was very anxious to travel to Paris by the way of
Strasbourg, as she had always wished to see the cathedral with its
wonderful clock.
Mr. Winter made inquiries and found that was decidedly the best way to
go, which was a great delight to them all.
Our party left Nuremberg early in the morning, sorry to see the last of
the most interesting city they had seen thus far on their trip. Nellie,
who was looking forward to meeting her father and mother in Paris, was
quite happy to make a move in that direction.
The first part of the trip was not very interesting, but the latter was
delightful, and as they had a compartment to themselves the girls could
enjoy the view from both sides of the train. A change of cars was made
at a place where there was hardly anything but the station and the
railroad interests. Here they ate a cold lunch from the counter, though
there were some hot dishes on a table; but they did not look very
tempting.
The spire of the Strasbourg Cathedral could be seen some time before
reaching the station, and well it might, being four hundred and
sixty-six feet high, and by some authorities said to be the highest in
the world.
The fortifications had been so fine at Mayence our party was surprised
to find others much finer here, many of them being new, having been
built at the time of the French and German war in 1870.
The engineering of some of them is particularly fine, as they are made
to be opened, so that all the surrounding country can be flooded if
necessary.
The train wound round the city, giving them a fine view of the
fortifications and the soldiers being drilled in many of the enclosures.
Strasbourg was one of the most important cities during the last war, and
a great portion of it was destroyed. One side of the cathedral was badly
damaged, but is now thoroughly restored.
Mr. Winter took his family to a small hotel on the square near the
station, having been recommended there by the manager of the hotel at
Nuremberg. He found it very comfortable, and every possible attention
was shown them.
Arriving about five o'clock, there was plenty of time to be driven
around the city. Of course they started for the cathedral, but on the
way the driver stopped the carriage to point out one of the highest
chimneys on one of the tallest houses, where the storks had built a
nest.
He also told them how the storks arrive every spring and build their
nests, and then leave in the fall with their young, to return the next
spring with their families no larger nor smaller than when they go
away. What becomes of the surplus is a great question--whether they only
increase sufficiently to fill the vacancies caused by death or old age,
or that the young ones found colonies in other countries.
The storks are held in great reverence by mankind, and are never harmed.
Indeed, it is considered good fortune to the inmates of a house when a
nest is built on one of its chimneys.
The driver told a story of one man who gave up the use of his room an
entire winter, rather than destroy a nest which two storks had built
over the top of his chimney, and thus prevented his building a fire.
As they approached the cathedral Alice said, "Why, papa, where is the
clock? I cannot see it at all."
[Illustration: STRASBOURG STORKS.--_Page 94._]
"I do not know," said Mr. Winter; "but it certainly is there somewhere."
The driver took them to the front of the building, where they were met
by a guide, who showed them the beauties of the outside architecture
and the many statues of the apostles and saints. He told them that the
cathedral was commenced in 1015 and finished in 1601.
The guide showed them the plateau half-way up the height of the steeple,
and told them that it is used by men who watch for fires all the time.
The citizens are so proud of the cathedral that they have it dusted and
washed inside very frequently.
"Where is the clock?" said Mrs. Winter, as soon as the guide stopped
talking long enough for her to speak a word.
The man did not answer, but took them around to a side door, where,
after receiving his tip, he left them and walked away.
At first they did not know what to do, but Mrs. Winter said, "I think we
had better go inside if we can."
In they went, and right by the door was the clock. A fine-looking man
dressed elegantly met them. He proved to be a finely educated Swiss, and
he explained the various wonders of the clock.
[Illustration: STRASBOURG--CATHEDRAL CLOCK.--_Page 96._]
He told them that the clock was built three hundred years ago, and was
to run a certain number of years. It shows all fête days for all those
years, tells the changes of the moon, eclipses--in fact, everything that
one could imagine.
The apostles do not all come out and walk around except at noon, but as
it was quarter before six our party saw three men move.
The clock stops at six at night and then commences again at six in the
morning.
Mrs. Winter said the longer she looked at it, the more wonderful it
seemed to her that any man could think of so many things.
The guide also told them that the man who first conceived the idea of
the clock became totally blind when it was nearly completed. Of course
he could work no more, and it was never thought the clock would be
finished.
He lived thirty years, and after his death another man was found
who thought he could complete it. He succeeded, and was paid by the
government for his time and work.
Mrs. Winter said, "I think it is the most wonderful thing I ever saw,
and I do not know which man I admire the most--the one who conceived
such a work, or the man who could carry out such marvellous thoughts of
a man whom he had never met."
After leaving the cathedral our party was driven around the city. The
old part they found very quaint and picturesque, with its high and
sloping roofs. The new part, built by the Germans, was very handsome,
some of the buildings, like the palace, conservatory of music, and the
post-office, being particularly fine.
The driver told them that one of the great interests there was the
making of _pâté de foie gras_. It is made from the livers of geese
which are fed in such a way that the liver grows abnormally large, often
weighing three pounds.
He also told them that many of the French people are still very bitter
against the Germans, even pulling down their shades to the windows if a
regiment should march by the house.
On their return to the hotel, the manager told Mr. Winter he would have
a very quick and comfortable journey to Paris if he took the Orient
express which runs between Constantinople and Paris. It would leave
Strasbourg three hours later than the ordinary train, and would arrive
in Paris some hours before it.
Mr. Winter engaged a compartment at once, and the next day had a very
enjoyable trip, though it was a very long one. The first part of the
route, over mountains and through ravines, was very delightful; but
after getting into France it was flat and uninteresting.
They passed through Epérgny, which was interesting for its vines, which
covered the fields for many miles. From these grapes champagne is made.
Paris was reached at six o'clock, and their hotel, which had been
recommended by friends, was found to be very homelike.
The Fords were there waiting for them, and were as glad to see Nellie as
she was glad to be with them again.