_The New Cookery Books_
III
The Pudding and Pastry Book
THE
NEW COOKERY BOOKS.
By ELIZABETH DOUGLAS.
Fcap. 8vo, cloth, Cover designed,
2s. each.
I.
THE SOUP AND SAUCE BOOK.
II.
THE CAKE AND BISCUIT BOOK.
III.
THE PUDDING AND PASTRY BOOK.
The Pudding
and Pastry Book
By
Elizabeth Douglas
[Illustration]
London
Grant Richards
48 Leicester Square
Preface
The following pages naturally contain only a brief selection from the
thousands of sweets which exist; they have been chosen with an eye to
dainty quality, and to simplicity, and every receipt has been tested.
Three words concerning sweets: French white fire-proof dishes are
better for baking puddings than the ordinary English culinary utensils;
small cups or glasses are more charming receptacles for jellies, creams
and custards than large dishes; and the magic properties of salt (even
in the preparation of sweets) cannot be too much insisted upon, the
deprecatory English cook to the contrary.
E. D.
Table of Contents
PAGE
General Directions 1-5
Milk Puddings 7-12
Boiled Custards 15-17
Baked Custards 20-24
Fruit Dishes 26-34
Pancakes 37-39
Fritters 41-47
Omelets 49-52
Baked Soufflés 55-58
Soufflé Puddings 61-64
Hot Puddings 66-77
Sauces 80-87
Jellies 89-96
Creams 97-108
Cold Puddings 110-121
Pastry 123-127
Open Tarts and Tartlets 129-134
American Pies 137-141
Cream Ices 142-149
Water Ices 151-155
Iced Puddings, Mousses, Parfaits, etc. 157-162
Sugars 164-165
General Directions
_Measuring._--Flour, sugar, salt, ground spices, should always be
sifted before measuring.
A cup is a breakfast-cup holding half a pint. The spoons are the silver
ones in general use.
A spoonful of dry material is one in which the convexity at the top
corresponds to the concavity of the spoon. A scant spoonful should be
made level with the edges of the spoon.
In measuring half a tea-spoon of dry material, fill it first, and then
divide it with a knife the length of the spoon.
It is necessary to remember in measuring half or quarter cups that a
cup is smaller at the bottom than the top. It is most satisfactory to
have half-pint measures which are marked into quarters.
_Table of Measures_
4 cups flour = 1 quart or 1 lb.
2 cups of butter (solid) = 1 lb.
2¹⁄₂ cups powdered sugar = 1 lb.
1 cup = ¹⁄₂ pint
1 glass = ¹⁄₂ pint
1 pint milk or water = 1 lb.
9 large eggs = 1 lb.
1 table-spoon butter = 1 oz.
1 heaping table-spoon butter = 2 ozs.
Butter the size of an egg = 2 ozs.
_To clean currants._--Sprinkle the currants with flour, put them on a
coarse sieve, and rub them until the stems and grit are separated and
go through the sieve. Then wash thoroughly in water, changing it until
clear. Drain on a towel and pick over. Dry, if the weather permits, in
the _sun_, not in an oven.
_To stone raisins._--Pour boiling water over the raisins, and let them
stand in it for ten minutes. Drain and rub each raisin between finger
and thumb till the seeds come out. Cut open or chop.
_Sultanas._--Pick over sultanas carefully, removing the little stems.
_To chop suet._--Sprinkle the suet with flour. Chop in a cold place,
removing all membrane carefully.
_To boil puddings._--Pour the pudding mixture into a well-buttered
basin, leaving room for it to swell or rise. Take a perfectly clean
cloth, dip it in boiling water, and flour plentifully inside where it
covers the pudding. Tie it up tightly round the basin. Stand in boiling
water. Do not let the water stop boiling for an instant until the
pudding is done. If it boils away, renew with fresh boiling water.
_To steam puddings._--Cover the basin (which should be buttered) with
buttered paper. Set in a covered steamer over boiling water. Keep the
water boiling hard.
_Bain-marie._--Bain-maries can be bought, but a saucepan placed upon a
trivet in a larger saucepan containing hot water does equally well.
_Gelatine._--Gelatine should always be soaked in _cold_ water for one
or two hours before using. Then it should be dissolved in a very little
hot water, unless otherwise specified, and strained.
The greatest care must be taken in adding liquid gelatine to a cold
mixture, as it so quickly solidifies. Strain it first, and then very
gradually add it to the mixture, beating hard all the time.
_To whip cream._--Whip cream in as cold a place as possible. It will
whip easiest if it has been kept on ice for two or three hours. While
whipping, remove the froth as it comes on to a sieve to drain. The
liquid cream which drains off can be returned to the basin and whipped
again. Sugar can be added before or after whipping. The cream will be
lighter if the sugar is whipped with it.
_To melt chocolate._--Put the chocolate in a saucepan on the oven when
the heat is very moderate. Watch that it does not burn.
_Meringue for puddings._--To make a meringue to cover a pudding, beat
several whites of egg until frothy but not stiff. Then add the sugar
gradually in the proportion of one table-spoon of powdered sugar to
each white. Beat till stiff. Spread over the pudding when it is cool.
Put in a moderate oven, and take out as soon as the meringue has risen,
and is delicately browned. Serve quickly.
_To blanch almonds._--Put the almonds into boiling water and let them
soak in it until the skins rub off easily between the finger and thumb.
Drain and spread out to dry.
_To pound almonds._--After blanching let them soak for an hour in cold
water, then pound in a good sized mortar until reduced to a soft pulp.
Whilst pounding add a few drops of orange-flower water or lemon juice.
_Mixing._--There are three ways of mixing. Stirring, Beating, Cutting
(or Folding).
_To stir._--Let the spoon touch the bottom and sides of the basin, and
move it round quickly in circles of various sizes. Do not lift it out
of the mixture, and work well against the sides.
_To beat._--Tip the bowl to one side. Bring the spoon or fork quickly
down into the mixture and through it, take it out the other side and
bring it over and down again, scraping the sides well each time it goes
in.
It is important to keep the bowl of the spoon well scraped out during
mixing.
_To cut or fold._--Turn over the mixture with a spoon, lift it up,
folding in the white of egg as lightly as possible. Do not stir or beat
but mix very gently until quite blended.
_To beat butter._--Butter which is to be beaten should not be melted;
but it can be softened by being kept for a while in a warm place.
* * * * *
To all sweets, with a few exceptions such as jellies, creams and
fruit dishes, salt should be added. It must be used carefully, since
the quantity required will necessarily vary. Salt is of the highest
importance in bringing out the full flavour of the ingredients used.
It can be added to flour or milk, or when the whites of eggs are used
it will serve a double purpose if added to them, as it makes them much
easier to beat up.
Milk Puddings
PAGE
Apple Tapioca Pudding 7
Bread and Butter Pudding 7
Bread Pudding 8
Gâteau de Riz 9
Rice Cream 9
Rice Pudding 10
” ” with Raisins 10
Rice Soufflé 11
Tapioca Pudding--I. 11
” ” II. 12
Apple Tapioca Pudding
1 teacup tapioca
1¹⁄₂ pints warm water
6 apples
1 lemon
1 tea-spoon butter
1 cup milk
1 cup powdered sugar
Soak the tapioca in the water. Add to it the butter, melted, a little
salt, half the sugar and the milk. Peel and core six sour apples,
filling them with the rest of the sugar with which the juice of half
a lemon and the grated peel of a whole lemon have been mixed. Put the
apples into a deep pudding-dish. Pour the tapioca and milk round them.
Bake an hour.
This pudding may be made with plums, gooseberries or currants; they
should be well sweetened.
Bread and Butter Pudding
Bread
Butter
Sultanas
Powdered cinnamon
3 eggs
1 pint milk
3 table-spoons powdered sugar
Cut a number of slices of bread, taking off the crusts and spreading
them with butter. Butter a pudding-dish and fill it three parts full
with the slices of bread and butter, sprinkling a little powdered
cinnamon and a few sultanas between each layer. Beat the sugar and
eggs together. Add the milk and flavouring. Strain. Pour slowly on the
bread, letting it absorb all it can. Bake in a moderate oven for an
hour.
A good variation of this pudding is made by spreading each layer of
bread and butter with jam.
*Bread Pudding
1¹⁄₂ cups powdered sugar
2 cups bread-crumbs
1 quart milk
5 eggs
1 table-spoon butter
Vanilla
Put the bread-crumbs, which should be very fine, to soak in the milk.
Mix the butter and one cup of sugar. Add the well-beaten yolks, and
beat well together. Add bread-crumbs and milk and a little vanilla.
Butter a pudding-dish and fill it not more than two-thirds full. Bake
in a moderate oven until set. Spread quickly with jelly or jam and
cover with the whites beaten to a froth and mixed with half a cup of
sugar. Put back in the oven to brown quickly. Serve cold with cream.
This pudding can be made with crushed and sweetened fresh strawberries
instead of jam.
Gâteau de Riz
5 table-spoons rice
¹⁄₂ cup powdered sugar
1 quart milk
6 eggs
Lemon peel
1 bay leaf
Boil the rice and sugar in the milk, with a thin strip of lemon peel
and the bay leaf, very gently until all the milk is absorbed. When
cold, add four whole eggs and two extra yolks previously well beaten,
and two whites beaten to a stiff froth. Beat all well together. Butter
a mould, and sprinkle very fine bread-crumbs all over it. Pour in the
rice and bake for half-an-hour in a quick oven.
A small cup of strong coffee can be added while the rice is being
cooked, or a handful of candied cherries after the eggs have been added.
Rice Cream
1 tea-cup rice
1¹⁄₂ pints milk or 1 pint milk and ¹⁄₂ pint cream
¹⁄₂ cup powdered sugar
¹⁄₂ tea-spoon vanilla
Boil the rice in the milk (with a very little salt) until it is soft
and thick and all the milk is absorbed. Add the sugar when partly
cooked, and stir in the vanilla when the rice is done. Pour into small
moulds or cups. Leave till the following day. Serve cold with custard,
cream or cold fruit sauce.
*Plain Rice Pudding
¹⁄₂ cup rice
¹⁄₂ cup brown sugar
1 quart milk
A little salt
Let the rice soak for half-an-hour in the milk. Add the sugar. Bake
over two hours in a moderate oven.
Rice Pudding with Apples or Raisins
3 table-spoons rice
1 quart milk
3 table-spoons brown sugar
Salt
3 sour apples
Or 1 cup raisins or sultanas
Soak the rice in the milk for an hour. Add a little salt, the sugar,
the apples pared and cut into eighths, or the stoned raisins or
sultanas. Butter a deep pudding-dish and fill it, covering it with a
plate. Bake very slowly for four hours.
*Rice Soufflé
¹⁄₂ cup rice
1 pint milk
6 eggs
6 table-spoons powdered sugar
1 table-spoon butter
¹⁄₂ tea-spoon vanilla
Cook the rice for twenty minutes in a large sauce-pan of salted
boiling water. Drain it and cook it in the milk in a double-boiler
for ten minutes. Beat the yolks until light and creamy. Add the sugar
and softened butter. Stir the eggs, etc. into the rice and cook for
five minutes, but do not allow it to boil. Let it get cold. Beat well
together, add the vanilla, and lightly stir in the whites beaten to a
stiff froth. Bake in a buttered mould for half-an-hour. Serve with a
sauce.
Tapioca Pudding--I
5 table-spoons tapioca
1 quart milk
1 table-spoon butter
¹⁄₂ cup brown sugar
(3 eggs)
Soak the tapioca over night, or if this has not been done, let it
simmer for half-an-hour in water. Drain and add the milk, sugar,
melted butter and a little salt. Butter a dish and bake in a moderate
oven for an hour.
Three eggs and a little vanilla can be added. They should be thoroughly
well beaten and stirred into the milk.
*Tapioca Pudding--II
1 breakfast-cup tapioca
5 eggs
1 quart milk
1 cup powdered sugar
¹⁄₂ tea-spoon vanilla
Cover the tapioca with water and soak all night. Then boil it till
tender. Make a custard (see p. 15) of the five yolks, sugar and milk.
Drain the tapioca. Put it into a large basin, adding a very little
salt. Pour the custard over it and beat well together, adding the
vanilla. Whip the whites to a firm froth. Stir them lightly in. Butter
a pudding-dish and pour in the mixture. Set it in a pan of boiling
water in a very moderate oven. Cover it with a dish. Bake until the
custard becomes thick and a little set (it must not be as firm as a
baked custard). Brown with a salamander or set in a hot oven for a few
minutes.
Boiled Custards
PAGE
Plain Custard 15
Caramel Custard 15
Chestnut Custard 16
Chocolate Custard 16
Coffee Custard 16
Tapioca Custard 17
General Directions
In making custards it is of the utmost importance that they should not
be allowed to boil. They are best made in a porcelain double-boiler or
in a bain-marie (see p. 15).
Cooked white of egg may be added as a garnish to any custard. To
prepare it, beat the whites to a stiff froth, and either put it on a
sieve and steam it; or drop a tablespoonful at a time into boiling
milk, removing it with a skimmer as soon as firm. Whipped cream or
ratafias may also be used.
Plain Custard
1 pint milk
3 or 4 yolks of eggs
3 tablespoons powdered sugar
¹⁄₂ teaspoon vanilla
Beat the yolks in a good sized basin until light and creamy. Add the
sugar and a very little salt. Scald the milk and pour it gradually over
the yolks, stirring constantly whilst doing so. Pour the custard back
into a double-boiler in the outer part of which is very hot water. Stir
continually until the custard thickens. When it is thick enough it will
coat the spoon. It must not boil or the custard will curdle. Strain at
once into a jug. Add the flavouring when cool.
Caramel Custard
Melt three table-spoons of powdered sugar in a saucepan and stir it
over a quick fire until it is a rich brown, being very careful that it
does not burn. Pour this into a basin and beat it well with three or
four yolks of eggs. Proceed as for plain custard (see above).
*Chestnut Custard
1 lb. chestnuts
4 eggs
4 ozs. powdered sugar
1 pint milk or cream
¹⁄₂ tea-spoon vanilla
Boil, peel and pound the chestnuts. Add the well beaten yolks, a little
salt and the sugar. Beat well together. Add the milk or cream. Beat the
whites to a stiff froth and add them gradually, stirring continually.
When well mixed, pour into a double boiler and stir until the custard
thickens. Add the vanilla when the custard is cool.
*Chocolate Custard
Add to one pint of milk three table-spoons of grated chocolate. Boil
until the chocolate is melted. Proceed as for plain custard (see p.
15). When cold stir in a gill of rich cream. Serve very cold.
*Coffee Custard
To a pint of plain custard (see p. 15) add a coffee cup of strong, good
coffee, and an extra table-spoon of powdered sugar. Omit the vanilla.
*Tapioca Custard
2 table-spoons tapioca
1 pint milk
2 eggs
¹⁄₃ cup powdered sugar
¹⁄₂ tea-spoon vanilla
Soak the tapioca for two hours in hot water in a double-boiler. Drain.
Put back and add the milk. Cook until tender and clear. Carefully mix
with the tapioca the two yolks beaten well, the sugar and a little
salt. Cook until the custard thickens. Take off the fire and stir in
the whites beaten to a stiff froth. When cool add the vanilla. Serve
very cold.
Baked Custards
PAGE
Baked Custard (plain) 20
Caramel Custard 20
Chocolate Custard 21
Cocoanut Custard 22
Coffee Custard 22
Crème Brûlée 22
Crème Renversée 23
Lemon Custard 24
General Directions
The milk for baked custards should always be boiled.
It is of the greatest importance in baking custards to have a slow
oven. It is a good thing to leave the oven door a little open for a
short time.
It is best, although not necessary, to stand the dish of custard in
another containing hot water. The water should simmer.
Custards can also be cooked by placing them in a large saucepan
containing hot water, which should reach half-way up the mould or cups
used. The water should be brought to a boil. Then the saucepan should
be set back where it will simmer gently, and it should be covered. This
method takes about an hour. It is best to let the custard stay in the
water until it is cold.
Baked Custard (plain)
6 yolks
2 whites
6 table-spoons powdered sugar
1 quart milk
Scald the milk. Beat the yolks and two whites together until light and
creamy. Add the sugar to them and a little salt. Beat again. Pour the
scalded milk over them slowly, stirring all the time. Strain into a
buttered pudding-dish or into small cups. Sprinkle with nutmeg. Bake in
a slow oven for forty minutes.
*Caramel Custard
¹⁄₂ cup sugar
1 quart milk
8 yolks
2 whites
1 tea-spoon vanilla
Melt the sugar with a very little water in an iron saucepan. Stir it
over a quick fire until it is a rich brown, being very careful that it
does not burn. Beat the yolks and whites till light. Scald the milk.
Add the sugar to it and pour slowly on the eggs, stirring continually.
Add vanilla and a little salt. Strain into dish. Set the dish
containing custard inside another vessel in which there is hot water
and bake in a very slow oven for an hour. This custard is best the day
after it is made. It should be set but creamy, and not as stiff as the
ordinary plain, baked custard.
Chocolate Custard
1 quart milk
6 yolks
1 cup powdered sugar
3 ozs. grated chocolate
1 tea-spoon vanilla
Add the chocolate to the milk and boil until it is thoroughly
dissolved. Beat the yolks thoroughly. Add the sugar to them and beat
again. Pour the boiling milk and chocolate over the yolks and sugar,
stirring continually. Add the vanilla and strain into a pudding-dish.
Bake in a very slow oven for forty-five minutes to an hour. Serve very
cold.
*Cocoanut Custard
¹⁄₂ lb. grated fresh cocoanut
¹⁄₄ lb. powdered sugar
1 table-spoon rose-water
Milk
¹⁄₂ pint cream
¹⁄₂ tea-spoon powdered cinnamon
2 yolks
4 whites
If there is not half a pint of cocoanut milk, add to it cold milk until
there is that amount. Into this stir the sugar and rose-water. Stir in
the cream and well-beaten yolks. Beat the whites to a very stiff froth,
and add them alternately with the grated cocoanut and cinnamon. Bake in
cups set in hot water in a moderate oven.
Coffee Custard
Make as for chocolate custard, flavouring with a coffee-cup of good
strong coffee instead of chocolate, and adding another yolk.
*Crème Brûlée
1 pint cream
4 yolks
Scald the cream. Pour it slowly over the well-beaten yolks. Put the
cream in a double-boiler and stir until it thickens, but do not let it
boil. Pour into a shallow dish.
When it is cold sift powdered sugar thickly over it. Set in a _very_
slow oven for quarter of an hour. Take it out. Brown the sugar with a
salamander. Serve cold.
*Crème Renversée
1³⁄₄ pints milk
6 yolks
3 whites
6 table-spoons powdered sugar
1 tea-spoon vanilla
Beat the yolks and whites together. Add the sugar. Beat again. Pour
the scalded milk gently over the eggs, stirring continually. Add the
vanilla and a little salt.
Melt a quarter of a pound of sugar in an iron sauce-pan; stir it over a
quick fire until it is a rich brown. Plunge a mould into boiling water
and drain it quickly. Pour part of the prepared sugar into it at once,
coating the sides evenly with it. Strain the custard immediately into
the mould. Cover with a plate and set in a pan of boiling water in a
moderate oven. Bake until quite firm. This can be tested with a knife,
which should come out clean if the custard is done. When the custard is
cold, turn it carefully out of the mould and pour round it the rest of
the syrup, with which a little hot water should have been mixed.
Lemon Custard
6 eggs
2 lemons
¹⁄₂ lb. powdered sugar
1 wine-glass brandy
1 stale sponge cake
1 pint milk or cream
2 ozs. butter
Into a basin put the yolks of the eggs. Beat them well. Add three
whites, the rinds of the lemons grated fine and the juice of one lemon.
Beat well again. Add the sugar, brandy, and sponge cake finely crushed.
Beat all together thoroughly. Add the cream and the butter, previously
softened, but not melted. Bake in small moulds in a quick oven for
half-an-hour.
Fruit Dishes
PAGE
Baked Apples--I. 26
” ” II. 26
Baked Bananas 26
Flaming Peaches 27
Grated Pine Apple 27
Miroton 27
Rum Tutti Frutti 28
Stewed Fruit 28
” Apples 29
” Figs 30
” Peaches 30
” Pears--I. 31
” ” II. 31
” ” (White) 32
” Prunes 32
Strawberries and Cream 33
Fruit Salads 33
Orange Salad 34
” and Cocoanut Salad 34
Pine Apple Salad 34
Baked Apples--I
Peel and core several good cooking apples. Butter on both sides as
many small slices of bread as you have apples. Fill the centre of each
apple with butter. Sprinkle thickly with sugar. Bake in a moderate oven
three-quarters of an hour. Baste five or six times with the juice and
butter, adding more butter if necessary. Serve hot, having filled the
centre of each apple with jelly.
Baked Apples--II
Peel and core several good cooking apples, and fill the hollow centres
with lemon sugar (see p. 164). Put a little water in the bottom of a
shallow tin. Set the apples in it close together. Bake in a quick oven,
basting often with the syrup formed by the water and sugar.
Baked Bananas
Skin several bananas and cut them lengthways in half. Place on a tin.
Sprinkle well with sugar, and put several small lumps of butter on
them. Bake twenty minutes in a moderate oven, basting occasionally and
adding a very little hot water if there is not sufficient juice with
which to baste.
Flaming Peaches
Peel several peaches, which should not be too ripe. Let them simmer for
five minutes in sweetened boiling water. Take them out and drain them.
Sprinkle with sugar. Pour sufficient lighted kirsch-wasser over the
peaches. The peaches must be kept very hot.
Grated Pine-Apple
Grate some pine-apple coarsely. To each pound of fruit add one pound of
sugar. Put into a large jar and stir occasionally. After twenty-four
hours put into glass jars and cover. This will keep for months.
Miroton
4 pears
1 table-spoon flour
1 table-spoon butter
1 wine-glass white wine
Powdered sugar
Pare and core the pears. Cut into quarters, let them simmer for half an
hour in a little water and sugar. Melt the butter in a sauce-pan. Add
the flour. Work till perfectly smooth. Add the wine, and when hot, the
pears and juice. Simmer again for half an hour. Lay the pears on rounds
of fried bread. Strain the juice over them and serve hot.
*Rum Tutti Frutti
Put one quart of rum and three pounds powdered sugar in a large jar
which has an air-tight cover or cork. Leave for a week. Stir well. Put
into the jar three pounds of strawberries and three pounds more sugar.
Stir occasionally. After another week add three pounds raspberries
and three pounds sugar. Stir every day. Again, after an interval, add
apricots, peaches, plums, etc., always with an equal quantity of sugar.
The jar must be kept air-tight and should be kept in a cool dry place.
When it is full, put it away for several weeks. Then mix thoroughly and
serve with whipped cream.
Stewed Fruit
Fruit should be stewed in plenty of well-sweetened water until tender,
care being taken to keep it whole. When tender remove the fruit from
the saucepan. Place it in the dish in which it is to be served. To the
juice add a little thin lemon peel, a few drops of lemon juice, more
sugar if required, and, if liked, a glass of white wine. Set again on a
quick fire and reduce until thick. Strain this over the fruit and serve
when cold.
Stewed Apples
Peel and take out the core of several sound good cooking apples,
putting each when finished in water into which the juice of a lemon has
been squeezed. When they are all prepared arrange them in a saucepan,
covering them with water and adding sugar to sweeten thoroughly. Cook
quickly for about twenty minutes, taking care to keep them whole. Lift
out the apples. Place them on a glass dish. Add a little lemon juice
to the apple juice, more sugar if necessary, a few drops of cochineal
(and, if possible, the rind of a pine-apple). Boil quickly until
considerably reduced--and quite thick. Pour over the apples. Decorate
each apple with a little red currant jelly.
*Stewed Figs
1 lb. dried figs
1 pint water
4 ozs. powdered sugar
1 lemon
1 wine-glass sherry
Put the figs, water, sugar and finely-pared lemon peel into an
enamelled saucepan. Stew gently until very tender. This will take from
two to three hours. Take out the figs and place them in a dish. Stir
into the juice the sherry and juice of a lemon. Strain over the fruit
and serve cold.
Stewed Peaches
6 peaches
5 ozs. powdered sugar
¹⁄₂ pint cold water
1 table-spoon kirsch
Throw the peaches into boiling water to blanch. Take out and peel. Cut
into quarters, removing the stones. Put into cold water. Add the sugar.
Boil for five minutes, being careful not to break the fruit. Set the
fruit in a dish. Add the kirsch to the juice. Strain on to the fruit.
Stewed Pears--I
Pare, core and cut in half a number of good large cooking pears, and
put them into cold water in which there is the juice of a lemon. Prick
them in several places. Make a syrup in the proportion of one cup of
sugar to one cup of water. Boil up and skim. When cool pour it into an
earthenware jar. Put the pears into the syrup. Add two cloves. Cover
the jar tightly. Set in a very slow oven and leave for five or six
hours. This is the best way of cooking pears: but it is essential that
the oven should be slow all the time.
Stewed Pears--II
6 pears
¹⁄₄ lb. sugar
1 wine-glass red wine
2 cloves
Rind of a lemon thinly pared
Pare and cut the pears in half. Take out the cores. Put in a saucepan.
Cover with water. Add the sugar, wine, cloves and lemon rind. Simmer as
slowly as possible. Arrange in a dish. Add a few drops of cochineal to
the juice. Strain it over the pears.
Stewed Pears (White)
(_Old French Receipt_)
Put several unpeeled pears into boiling water. Cook for several
minutes. Take out and throw into cold water. Peel when cold and divide
in two. Put back into fresh cold water.
To a gill of water add sufficient sugar to make a sweet syrup. Boil
and skim. When clear, add the pears and a slice of lemon. Simmer until
tender. Remove the lemon and serve cold.
Stewed Prunes
1 lb. prunes
1 pint water
¹⁄₂ lb. sugar
1 lemon
Peel the lemon very finely. Put the peel, water, sugar and prunes in a
stew-pan. Simmer gently until very tender. Put the prunes in a glass
dish. Add the juice of the lemon to the syrup. Reduce it until thick.
Strain over the prunes. This is best prepared the day before it is
required.
Strawberries and Cream
Pick over a number of fine strawberries. Put a layer of them in a glass
dish. Sprinkle sugar over them. Add one or two more layers and sprinkle
each with sugar. Set aside for about an hour.
Whip half a pint of cream with the white of two eggs and two ozs.
powdered sugar until very frothy. Let it stand a few minutes. Remove
all the froth to a sieve to drain, and whip up the liquid cream
remaining. When that is frothy, drain it on a sieve as before. Keep
the cream in a cold place till it is required, piling it on the
strawberries when ready to serve.
Fruit Salad
Take tinned or fresh pine-apple, peaches, apricots and fresh
strawberries, cherries, bananas, oranges, according to season. Cut the
large fruit into small pieces. Put all into a large bowl. Make a syrup
(see p. 151) of sugar and water, or, if tinned pears and pine apples
have been used, of their juice and sugar. Pour it over the fruit while
warm. Let it stand a little while. Place on the dish in which it is to
be served. Decorate with grapes or crystallised sugar.
Orange Salad
Peel a number of oranges, scraping off all the white inner skin with a
sharp knife. Cut across in slices, removing all the core and seeds. Put
a layer of orange in a dish. Sprinkle thickly with sugar and a little
rum. Add two or three more layers of orange and sugar. Serve at once,
as the orange quickly becomes bitter.
Orange and Cocoanut Salad
Peel six oranges. Scrape off the inner white skin carefully. Slice
them, removing the core and seeds. Grate half a cocoanut. Put alternate
layers of orange and cocoanut in a dish. The top layer should be
cocoanut. Sprinkle each layer with sugar. Serve as soon as possible
after making.
Pine Apple Salad
1 pine apple ¹⁄₂ pint syrup 1 table-spoon curaçoa
Peel the pine apple and grate it. Mix the curaçoa with the syrup (see
p. 151). Pour over the fruit.
Pancakes
PAGE
Pancakes--I. 37
” II. 37
” with Jam 38
” French 38
Rice Pancakes 39
General Directions
To fry pancakes, melt a piece of fresh butter in a small frying-pan.
When it is very hot pour in sufficient batter to cover the frying-pan
with a thin layer. Fry over a clear fire, shaking the pan constantly.
Loosen the edges of the pancake, when set, with a knife. Give a good
shake and toss, bringing the pancake down on the other side. As each is
done, put it on a very hot plate in the oven and continue frying the
others as quickly as possible.
Pancakes--I (French Receipt)
4 eggs
¹⁄₂ lb. sifted flour
1 pint milk
1 table-spoon olive oil
1 table-spoon brandy, rum, absinthe or kirsch
Salt
Beat the eggs. Add the milk, flour, etc., mixing well together until
perfectly smooth. Set aside for three hours. When ready to fry, add to
the batter one white of egg beaten to a stiff froth. Fry in butter.
Pancakes--II (American)
5 table-spoons flour
7 eggs
1 pint cream or milk
Sift the flour with a tea-spoon of salt. Mix it smoothly with the
cream. Beat up the yolks and add them, mixing thoroughly. Beat four
whites to a stiff froth and stir them lightly in. Fry in very hot
butter. Serve with sugar and cinnamon or lemon.
Pancakes with Jam
¹⁄₂ lb. flour
1 table-spoon sugar
¹⁄₄ lb. melted butter
5 eggs
1¹⁄₄ pints milk
First mix the sugar, flour and unbeaten eggs. Add the butter, milk and
a little salt. Fry in butter in a small frying-pan, two table-spoons at
a time. As soon as a pancake is done on one side, lay it on a dish and
spread it with apricot or strawberry jam. Cover it with another, and so
on. Sprinkle the top pancake with sugar and glaze with a salamander.
Serve very hot.
*French Pancakes
2 eggs
2 ozs. powdered sugar
2 ozs. flour
2 ozs. butter
¹⁄₂ pint milk
Beat the butter to a cream. Add the well-beaten eggs, and beat
together. Stir in the sugar, flour, and lastly the milk, beating all
the time.
Bake in six well-buttered saucers in a quick oven about twenty minutes.
Fold each pancake over. Sprinkle with powdered sugar, and serve with
lemon.
Rice Pancakes
¹⁄₄ lb. rice
¹⁄₂ pint cream or milk
1 table-spoon powdered sugar
4 eggs
2 ozs. butter
Flour
Boil the rice in water until very tender. Pound it and put it through
a sieve. When cold add the cream or milk, sugar, well-beaten eggs and
butter, which should be warmed and creamed. Add flour, if necessary, to
make a fairly stiff batter. Fry in butter.
Fritters
PAGE
Fruit Fritters 43
Henriettes 44
Orange Fritters 44
Pine Apple Fritters 45
Portuguese Fritters 45
Soufflé Fritters 46
Strawberry Fritters 47
General Directions
Fritters are crisper if fried in clarified fat than in lard.
In making fruit fritters dip each piece of fruit into batter. See that
it is well covered.
Drop fritters, a few at a time, into smoking hot fat, being careful
that they do not touch each other; fry a rich yellow. Take out with a
skimmer and set in the oven for a few minutes on soft paper to drain.
Sift sugar over the fritters and serve with a wine or fruit sauce.
Batter for Fritters--I
(_French Receipt_)
2 eggs
¹⁄₂ lb. flour
1 table-spoon olive oil
1 table-spoon brandy
¹⁄₂ cup water, milk or beer
Mix the flour and water, milk or beer, perfectly smooth. Add the
well-beaten yolks, the oil and brandy (which is optional) and a little
salt. Mix well and set aside for two or three hours. When the batter is
wanted, beat the whites until stiff and dry and add them.
Batter for Fritters--II
9 ozs. flour
1 table-spoon powdered sugar
4 eggs
8 table-spoons butter (melted)
¹⁄₂ cup white wine
2 table-spoons brandy
Mix the flour, sugar and well-beaten yolks together. Beat until smooth,
adding a little salt. Stir in the melted butter, white wine and brandy,
and, just before using, the whites beaten until they are stiff and dry.
Fruit Fritters
Fritters may be made of apples, bananas, oranges, apricots, pine-apple,
peaches, etc. The fruit should be ripe and perfect.
Cut apples across in slices about a third of an inch thick. Take out
the core from the centre of each piece.
Cut each slice of pine-apple into four pieces.
Slice bananas lengthwise, cutting each slice in half if too long.
Cut peaches and apricots in quarters.
All fruit for fritters is best soaked for a couple of hours in
well-sweetened brandy, rum or kirsch, to which a little ground cinnamon
and the finely grated peel and the juice of a lemon have been added.
The fruit must be well drained before it is dipped in batter.
When this is not done each piece of fruit should be sprinkled with
sugar, a very little lemon juice and spice.
For frying see general directions.
Henriettes
1 egg
¹⁄₂ gill cream
Salt
1 salt-spoon baking-powder
¹⁄₂ tea-spoon vanilla
1 tea-spoon brandy
Flour
Beat the yolk and white separately. Mix all smoothly together with
sufficient flour to roll out. Roll as thin as possible, and cut into
squares and ribbons. Fry in boiling lard. Drain and sprinkle with
flavoured sugar (see p. 164).
Orange Fritters
Peel and divide several sweet oranges into sections. Scrape off all
pith with a sharp knife. Take out the seeds. Drop them into a syrup
made of water, sugar and a table-spoon of brandy, and let them simmer
for a few minutes. Take out and drain on a sieve. Dip in batter and fry
(see p. 41). Put in the oven to drain and sprinkle with orange sugar
(see p. 164).
Pine-Apple Fritters
1 pine-apple (fresh or tinned)
2 cups flour
1 table-spoon melted butter
1 egg
Water
Pare and grate the pine-apple. To the juice add the flour. Mix
perfectly smooth. Add the well-beaten yolk, a little salt and the
butter. If fresh pine-apple is used add sufficient water to make the
batter thin enough to drop from the end of spoon. Beat the white of egg
to a stiff froth and stir it in quickly and lightly when ready to fry.
Drop into the boiling fat by the table-spoon and fry a golden brown.
Drain on paper in the oven and dust with lemon sugar (see p. 164).
Portuguese Fritters
(Pain Perdu)
1 pint milk
1 yolk
2 table-spoons sugar
Bread
2 ozs. butter
1 dessert-spoon orange-flower water
Boil the milk with the sugar, grated rind of a lemon, and orange-flower
water until it is reduced one half.
Cut several slices of bread half an inch thick. Take off the crust and
cut the bread into rounds about the size of the top of a tumbler. Dip
these in the milk and then in the well-beaten yolk. Fry in butter.
Sprinkle with lemon sugar (see p. 164) or put on each one a spoonful of
jam. Serve very hot.
Soufflé Fritters
(Beignets Soufflés)
1 cup water
2 ozs. butter
4 ozs. flour
1 tea-spoon powdered sugar
6 yolks
3 whites
Set the water on the fire. Add the sugar, butter and a little salt.
As soon as it boils add the flour all at once. Work it smooth with
a wooden spoon, and stir it over the fire for two or three minutes.
Take off the fire and add the yolks of six eggs, one after the other,
beating hard all the time. Beat the whites of three eggs to a stiff
froth. Add this to the batter stirring it lightly in. Divide into
pieces about the size of an egg, sprinkle them with flour and fry them
in a very large saucepan of clarified fat, giving each fritter room to
swell without touching another. The fat should not be too hot at first,
but as the fritters swell the heat should be increased. When a good
colour take them out, drain them and sprinkle them with sugar. Serve at
once very hot.
Strawberry Fritters
Dip whole strawberries into batter No. II. Fry a good colour. Drain.
Sprinkle with sugar and glaze with a salamander.
Omelets
PAGE
Sweet Omelet--I. 50
” ” II. 50
Foam ” 51
Orange ” 51
Rum ” 52
General Directions
A special pan should be kept for omelets. It must be used for nothing
else. After being used it is best to scour it with a little salt and
vinegar in order to keep a perfectly smooth surface.
Melt a tea-spoon of butter in the pan, let it run well over it, but do
not let it burn. Pour in the eggs. Lift the egg mixture at the sides as
it cooks so as to let the uncooked part flow under. This must, however,
only be done at first or the surface will be roughened. When the egg is
firm underneath but still soft on top, fold one side carefully over the
other with a knife. Slip gently on a very hot plate. Serve quickly and
very hot. Add a little salt to the eggs whilst beating.
Sweet Omelet--I
3 eggs
Powdered sugar
Jam
Beat the eggs slightly with one table-spoon of powdered sugar. Cook as
directed. Before folding over spread with apricot or strawberry jam.
Fold. Sprinkle with powdered sugar, and score several diagonal lines on
the top with a clean red-hot poker or iron.
Sweet Omelet--II
3 eggs
2 tablespoons rich cream
Powdered sugar
Jam
Beat the yolks with one table-spoon sugar and the cream until very
light and frothy. Beat the whites to a stiff froth. Fold them lightly
into the yolks. Pour into a pan, and when firm set in the oven a few
moments to dry. Fold in half, sprinkle with sugar and score several
diagonal lines with a clean red-hot poker.
Foam Omelet
3 eggs
1 table-spoon powdered sugar
Beat the yolks and sugar together. Beat the whites to a stiff froth.
Add half of them to the yolks, folding lightly in. Pour into a pan, and
when the mixture is nearly set spread it with the rest of the whites,
flavoured with a little vanilla or lemon juice and sweetened. When the
whites are thoroughly heated, fold over. Sprinkle with sugar and serve
quickly.
Orange Omelet
3 eggs
Powdered sugar
Orange sugar
The finely grated rind of one orange
3 table-spoons orange juice
Beat the yolks and two table-spoons powdered sugar until creamy and
light. Add the juice and rind. Beat again. Fold in the whites beaten to
a stiff froth. Proceed as for sweet omelet No. II. Sprinkle the omelet
thickly with orange sugar (see p. 164).
Rum Omelet
3 eggs
Powdered sugar
Rum
Beat the eggs with one table-spoon sugar. Pour into the pan. Sprinkle
well with sugar before folding. Fold. Slip on a very hot dish. Pour
lighted rum over the omelet, basting the omelet with the rum until it
is extinguished. Serve quickly.
Baked Soufflés
PAGE
Chocolate Soufflé 55
Coffee Soufflé 55
Maraschino Soufflé 56
Omelette Soufflée 56
Punch Soufflé 57
Soufflé Royal 57
Strawberry Soufflé 58
Vanilla Soufflé 58
General Directions
Soufflés should be made in dishes made for the purpose and must be
served in the same. The dish should be spread with cold butter, the
soufflé mixed not a moment before it is time to put it in the oven
(which should be moderately hot), and served immediately it is taken
out. A soufflé is better underdone than overdone.
Great care must be taken to whisk in the whites of eggs as quickly and
lightly as possible.
It is best to tie a piece of buttered paper round the outside of the
mould, so that the soufflé does not run over. In any case room must be
given for it to rise.
If there is danger of the soufflé burning, cover it with a sheet of
greased paper.
Chocolate Soufflé
To the vanilla soufflé (see page 58) add 2 ozs. fine powdered
chocolate, stirring it into the mixture whilst boiling.
Coffee Soufflé
2 ozs. roasted whole coffee
1¹⁄₂ pints cream or milk
3 ozs. butter
3 ozs. fine flour
3 ozs. powdered sugar
1 tea-spoon vanilla
8 eggs
Throw the coffee into the boiling cream or milk. Cover closely and set
aside for an hour. Strain through fine muslin. Melt the butter in a
large enamel saucepan. Add the flour. Mix till perfectly smooth. Add
the cream and sugar. Stir together. Set aside to cool. Add the yolks
beaten till creamy, and the vanilla. Then whip in the whites, which
should be whisked to a firm froth. Bake in a buttered soufflé dish in a
moderate oven for three-quarters of an hour.
Maraschino Soufflé
3 yolks
4 whites
1 table-spoon maraschino
3 table-spoons powdered sugar
3 table-spoons flour
1 pint cream
Beat the yolks and sugar for ten minutes. Add the flour. Beat till
perfectly smooth. Add the maraschino and cream. Beat the whites to a
stiff froth. Beat them lightly in. Pour into a soufflé dish and bake.
Sprinkle with powdered sugar.
Omelette Soufflée
6 eggs
4 heaped table-spoons powdered sugar
1 tea-spoon vanilla
Beat the yolks and sugar together for fifteen minutes. Add the
flavouring. Beat the whites to a stiff froth. Pour the yolks on the
whites and whisk them lightly and quickly till mixed. Pour into a
buttered tin, sprinkle with powdered sugar, and put in a moderately hot
oven. It should take about ten to fifteen minutes to bake. Serve at
once.
Punch Soufflé
1 pint cream (or milk)
2 table-spoons China or green tea
3 ozs. butter
3 ozs. flour
1 glass rum
1 lemon
8 yolks
Boil the cream. Add to it the tea. Set it back on the oven and let it
stand five minutes closely covered. Strain off the cream. Melt the
butter in a saucepan. Add the flour and stir till perfectly smooth.
Add the cream. Stir continually for four or five minutes. Pour into a
basin. Add the sugar, juice of the lemon, half of the grated rind and
the rum. Beat well together until cooler. Gradually add the well-beaten
yolks, beating vigorously while doing so. Bake for about three-quarters
of an hour.
Soufflé Royal
¹⁄₂ pint cream
2 table-spoons flour
2 table-spoons powdered sugar
2 table-spoons orange flower water
¹⁄₂ cup pounded almonds
6 eggs
Mix the well-beaten yolks of six eggs with the rest of the ingredients,
beating all together hard for ten minutes. Add the whites beaten to a
firm froth. Mix well and pour into a buttered soufflé dish. Serve as
soon as the soufflé has risen. Pounded macaroons may be used instead of
almonds.
Strawberry Soufflé
1 quart strawberries
8 table-spoons powdered sugar
8 whites of eggs
¹⁄₂ tea-spoon lemon juice
Press the berries through a fine sieve into a basin. Add the sugar.
Beat until very frothy. Add the lemon juice and the whites whipped to a
firm froth. Bake in a slow oven for half an hour. Sprinkle with lemon
sugar (see p. 164).
Vanilla Soufflé
2 ozs. potato flour (or fine flour)
2 table-spoons powdered sugar
1 tea-cup milk or cream
4 eggs
1 tea-spoon vanilla
2 table-spoons butter
Mix the flour, sugar and milk to a perfectly smooth paste and stir
over the fire until the flour is cooked (the mixture should boil for
at least five minutes). Add the butter whilst boiling. Strain and set
aside to cool. Beat the yolks till creamy. Beat them together with the
milk, etc. Add the flavouring. Beat in the whites, whipped to a stiff
froth, very lightly. Bake in buttered soufflé dish in a moderate oven
for twenty-five minutes.
This soufflé may be flavoured with the syrup of preserved ginger, one
table-spoon of maraschino, the juice and grated rind of a lemon, or
with orange flower water.
Soufflé Puddings
PAGE
Almond Soufflé 62
Chocolate Soufflé 62
” ” with Almonds 63
Cream Soufflé 64
Lemon Soufflé 64
General Directions
Do not more than half fill the tin. Tie a piece of buttered paper right
round the outside of the tin, letting it project about two inches above
the tin. Set the soufflé dish in a vessel of simmering water, which
should reach half way up the soufflé tin and which should boil gently
and be replenished from time to time with boiling water. Cook either in
a very moderate oven, or on a very gentle fire. The water should only
simmer.
When cooked, turn the soufflés out carefully and serve with cream or
wine sauce.
Almond Soufflé
4 ozs. almonds
7 eggs
4 ozs. sugar
1 table-spoon lemon sugar
2¹⁄₂ ozs. flour
Blanch and pound the almonds with one whole egg. Add the sugar, six
yolks, lemon sugar (see p. 164). Beat for quarter of an hour. Sift in
the flour lightly, avoiding lumps, and add the whites beaten to a stiff
froth. Pour into a buttered mould and steam about an hour.
Chocolate Soufflé
2 ozs. butter
2 ozs. fine flour
¹⁄₂ pint milk
1 oz. sugar
2 ozs. powdered chocolate
4 eggs
¹⁄₂ tea-spoon vanilla
Melt the butter in a saucepan. Add the flour. Mix until quite smooth.
Add the boiling milk gradually and stir together into a smooth paste.
Strain through a sieve into a basin. Add the vanilla, sugar and
chocolate. Add the well-beaten yolks when the mixture is nearly cold,
and then the whites beaten to a stiff froth. Mix thoroughly and pour
into a buttered mould. Steam for about an hour and a half.
Chocolate Soufflé with Almonds
4 ozs. butter
4 ozs. sugar
4 ozs. chocolate
4 ozs. almonds
6 eggs
1 white
2 table-spoons finely chopped candied orange and citron
Blanch and pound the almonds in a mortar with the white of an egg. Beat
the butter to a cream. Beat the yolks thoroughly and add them to the
butter, beating till smooth and foamy. Add the sugar, almonds and the
melted chocolate. Beat all together ten minutes. Add the chopped peel,
and the whites beaten to a stiff froth. Pour into a buttered mould and
steam for one and a half hours.
Cream Soufflé
2 table-spoons fine flour
4 ozs. butter
¹⁄₂ pint cream
5 eggs
1¹⁄₂ ozs. sugar
1 tea-spoon vanilla or 1 table-spoon maraschino
Stir the flour with 2 ozs. of butter over the fire till smooth. Add the
cream, and stir continually till it boils. Set aside to cool.
Beat the yolks till creamy. Beat the butter to a cream. Beat the butter
and yolks together with the sugar and vanilla. Mix with the cream. Beat
together and beat in three whites whipped to a stiff froth. Pour into a
buttered mould. Steam over the fire for three quarters of an hour.
Lemon Soufflé
1 oz. butter
¹⁄₄ lb. powdered sugar
1 lemon
1¹⁄₂ ozs. flour
5 eggs
Beat the yolks till creamy. Mix them with the flour, sugar, warmed
butter and grated rind of one lemon, and beat well together. Stir over
the fire till the mixture thickens. Set aside in a basin till cool.
Beat the whites to a stiff froth. Whip them lightly in. Steam in a
buttered mould for half an hour.
Hot Puddings
PAGE
Albemarle Pudding 66
Apple and Apricot Charlotte 66
Apple Custard 67
Bread and Rum Pudding 68
Cherry Pudding 68
Christmas Plum Pudding--I. 69
” ” II. 70
Dutch Apple Cake 70
Fig Pudding 71
Friar’s Omelet 71
Gooseberry Pudding 72
Ginger Pudding 72
Italian Mousse 73
Little Citron Puddings 73
Marmalade Pudding 74
Mousse à la Mangara 74
Palace Pudding 75
Pine Apple and Rice Mould 75
Plum Pudding 76
Strawberry Shortcake 77
Albemarle Pudding
4 ozs. butter
4 ozs. powdered sugar
3 eggs
1 lemon
³⁄₄ lb. flour
Raisins
Beat the butter to a cream. Add the sugar and rind of a lemon. Beat
well. Add the well-beaten yolks and flour alternately, beating
continually. When quite smooth, add the juice of the lemon, and the
whites beaten to a stiff froth. Butter a mould, and line the top of it
with raisins. Pour in the mixture, and steam an hour and a half. Serve
with a wine sauce.
*Apple and Apricot Charlotte
6 large apples
Butter, the size of a walnut
Sugar
The finely peeled rind of a lemon
¹⁄₂ lb. apricot jam
Peel and core the apples. Cut in quarters. Stew with the butter, and
sufficient sugar to sweeten, until tender, taking care not to let them
burn.
Warm the jam in a saucepan, and put through a sieve. Add to the apples,
and stir well together.
Line a buttered mould with strips of thin bread which have been dipped
in melted butter. Fill in with the apple and apricot mixture. Cover
with a round of bread also dipped in butter. Bake about twenty minutes,
or until the bread is well coloured.
Apple Custard
6 large apples
3 eggs
6 table-spoons powdered sugar
1 pint milk
Pare and core the apples. Fill the centre of each with sugar and bake,
being careful that they do not break. Or they can be stewed whole.
Make a custard (see p. 15) of the yolks, milk and half the sugar.
Pour it over the apples, which should be arranged in a dish. Bake
slowly until the custard is firm. Whip the whites till frothy. Add the
rest of the sugar gradually, and beat well together. Spread this over
the custard, and put in a moderate oven. Remove directly the meringue
is browned.
*Bread and Rum Pudding
2 wine glasses rum
4 eggs
6 ozs. powdered sugar
6 ozs. bread crumbs
6 ozs. currants
¹⁄₂ lb. candied peel
4 ozs. butter
3 table-spoons milk
Melt the butter, mix it with the sugar, bread crumbs and yolks. Stir
well together. Add the currants, milk, chopped peel and one glass of
rum. Beat the whites to a stiff froth, and stir them in. Put in a
buttered mould. Steam three hours. When cooked, pour another glass of
rum over the pudding, and serve.
*Cherry Pudding
4 eggs
1 pint milk
2 table-spoons of flour
Cherries
Sugar
Stone enough cherries to fill a basin, which must be well buttered.
Add sufficient sugar to sweeten well. Make a smooth batter of the
well-beaten eggs, flour and milk. Pour it over the cherries, filling
the basin. Cover with a cloth, and boil one and a half hours. Serve
with a fruit sauce.
Christmas Plum Pudding--I