_A Description of the Islands and their Produce; with the Cultivation,
Houses, Canoes, Navigation, Manufactures, Weapons, Customs, Government,
Religion, and Language of the Inhabitants._
1773 October
These islands were first discovered by Captain Tasman, in January, 1642-3,
and by him called Amsterdam and Middleburg. But the former is called by the
natives Ton-ga-ta-bu, and the latter Ea-oo-wee. They are situated between
the latitude of 21° 29' and 21° 3' south, and between the longitude of 174°
40' and 175° 15' west, deduced from observations made on the spot.
Middleburg, or Eaoowee, which is the southernmost, is about ten leagues in
circuit, and of a height sufficient to be seen twelve leagues. The skirts
of this isle are mostly taken up in the plantations; the S.W. and N.W.
sides especially. The interior parts are but little cultivated, though very
fit for cultivation. However, the want of it added greatly to the beauty of
the isle; for here are, agreeably dispersed, groves of cocoa-nut and other
trees, lawns covered with thick grass, here and there plantations, and
paths leading to every part of the island, in such beautiful disorder, as
greatly enlivens the prospect.
The anchorage, which I named English Road, being the first who anchored
there, is on the N.W. side, in latitude 21° 20' 30" south. The bank is a
coarse sand; it extends two miles from the land, and on it there is from
twenty to forty fathoms water. The small creek before it affords convenient
landing for boats at all times of the tide; which here, as well as at the
other islands, rises about four or five feet, and is high water on the full
and change days about seven o'clock. The island of Tongatabu is shaped
something like an isosceles triangle, the longest sides whereof are seven
leagues each, and the shortest four. It lies nearly in the direction of
E.S.E. and W.N.W.; is nearly all of an equal height, rather low, not
exceeding sixty or eighty feet above the level of the sea. This island, and
also that of Eaoowee, is guarded from the sea by a reef of coral rocks,
extending out from the shore one hundred fathoms more or less. On this reef
the force of the sea is spent before it reaches the land or shore. Indeed,
this is in some measure the situation of all the tropical isles in this sea
that I have seen; and thus nature has effectually secured them from the
encroachments of the sea, though many of them are mere points when compared
to this vast ocean. Van Diemen's Road, where we anchored, is under the
northwest part of the island, between the most northern and western points.
There lies a reef of rocks without it, bearing N.W. by W., over which the
sea breaks continually. The bank does not extend more than three cables
length from the shore; without that, is an unfathomable depth. The loss of
an anchor, and the damage our cables sustained, are sufficient proofs that
the bottom is none of the best.
On the east side of the north point of the island, (as Mr Gilbert, whom I
sent to survey the parts, informed me) is a very snug harbour, of one mile
or more in extent, wherein is seven, eight, and ten fathoms water, with a
clean sandy bottom. The channel, by which he went in and out, lies close to
the point, and has only three fathoms water; but he believes, that farther
to the N.E. is a channel with a much greater depth, which he had not time
to examine. Indeed, it would have taken up far more time than I could spare
to have surveyed these parts minutely; as there lies a number of small
islets and reefs of rocks along the N.E. side of the island, which seemed
to extend to the N.E. farther than the eye could reach. The island of
Amsterdam, or Tongatabu, is wholly laid out in plantations, in which are
planted some of the richest productions of nature, such as bread-fruit,
cocoa-nut trees, plantains, bananoes, shaddocks, yams, and some other
roots, sugar-cane, and a fruit like a nectarine, called by them
_Fighegea_, and at Otaheite _Ahuya_: In short, here are most of
the articles which the Society Islands produce, besides some which they
have not. Mr Forster tells me, that he not only found the same plants here
that are at Otaheite and the neighbouring isles, but several others which
are not to be met with there. And I probably have added to their stock of
vegetables, by leaving with them an assortment of garden seeds, pulse, &c.
Bread-fruit here, as well as at all the other isles, was not in season; nor
was this the time for roots and shaddocks. We got the latter only at
Middleburg.
The produce and cultivation of this isle is the same as at Amsterdam; with
this difference, that a part only of the former is cultivated, whereas the
whole of the latter is. The lanes or roads necessary for travelling, are
laid out in so judicious a manner, as to open a free and easy communication
from one part of the island to the other. Here are no towns or villages;
most of the houses are built in the plantations, with no other order than
what conveniency requires; they are neatly constructed, but do not exceed
those in the other isles. The materials of which they are built are the
same; and some little variation in the disposition of the framing, is all
the difference in their construction. The floor is a little raised, and
covered with thick strong mats; the same sort of matting serves to inclose
them on the windward side, the other being open. They have little areas
before the most of them, which are generally planted round with trees, or
shrubs of ornament, whose fragrancy perfumes the very air in which they
breathe. Their household furniture consists of a few wooden platters,
cocoa-nut shells, and some neat wooden pillows shaped like four-footed
stools or forms. Their common clothing, with the addition of a mat, serves
them for bedding. We got from them two or three earthen vessels, which were
all we saw among them. One was in the shape of a bomb-shell, with two boles
in it, opposite each other; the others were like pipkins, containing about
five or six pints, and had been in use on the fire. I am of opinion they
are the manufacture of some other isle; for, if they were of their own, we
ought to have seen more of them. Nor am I to suppose they came from
Tasman's ships; the time is too long for brittle vessels like these to be
preserved.
We saw no other domestic animals amongst them but hogs and fowls. The
former are of the same sort as at the other isles in this sea; but the
latter are far superior, being as large as any we have in Europe, and their
flesh equally good, if not better. We saw no dogs, and believe they have
none, as they were exceedingly desirous of those we had on board. My friend
Attago was complimented with a dog and a bitch, the one from New Zealand,
the other from Ulietea. The name of a dog with them is _kooree_ or
_gooree_, the same as at New Zealand, which shews that they are not
wholly strangers to them. We saw no rats in these isles, nor any other wild
quadrupeds, except small lizards. The land birds are pigeons, turtle-doves,
parrots, parroquets, owls, bald couts with a blue plumage, a variety of
small birds, and large bats in abundance. The produce of the sea we know
but little of; it is reasonable to suppose, that the same sorts of fish are
found here as at the other isles. Their fishing instruments are the
same; that is, hooks made of mother-of-pearl, gigs with two, three, or more
prongs, and nets made of a very fine thread, with the meshes wrought
exactly like ours. But nothing can be a more demonstrative evidence of
their ingenuity than the construction and make of their canoes, which, in
point of neatness and workmanship, exceed every thing of this kind we saw
in this sea. They are built of several pieces sewed together with bandage,
in so neat a manner, that on the outside it is difficult to see the joints.
All the fastenings are on the inside, and pass through kants or ridges,
which are wrought on the edges and ends of the several boards which compose
the vessel, for that purpose. They are of two kinds, viz. double and
single. The single ones are from twenty to thirty feet long, and about
twenty or twenty-two inches broad in the middle; the stern terminates in a
point, and the head something like the point of a wedge. At each end is a
kind of deck, for about one-third part of the whole length, and open in the
middle. In some the middle of the deck is decorated with a row of white
shells, stuck on little pegs wrought out of the same piece which composes
it. These single canoes have all out-riggers, and are sometimes navigated
with sails, but more generally with paddles, the blades of which are short,
and broadest in the middle. The two vessels which compose the double canoe
are each about sixty or seventy feet long, and four or five broad in the
middle, and each end terminates nearly in a point; so that the body or hull
differs a little in construction from the single canoe, but is put together
exactly in the same manner; these having a rising in the middle round the
open part, in the form of a long trough, which is made of boards, closely
fitted together, and well secured to the body of the vessel. Two such
vessels are fastened to, and parallel to each other, about six or seven
feet asunder, by strong cross beams, secured by bandages to the upper part
of the risings above mentioned. Over these beams, and others which are
supported by stanchions fixed on the bodies of the canoes, is laid a
boarded platform. All the parts which compose the double canoe, are made as
strong and light as the nature of the work will admit, and may be immerged
in water to the very platform, without being in danger of filling. Nor is
it possible, under any circumstance whatever, for them to sink, so long as
they hold together. Thus they are not only vessels of burden, but fit for
distant navigation. They are rigged with one mast, which steps upon the
platform, and can easily be raised or taken down; and are sailed with a
latteen-sail, or triangular one, extended by a long yard, which is a little
bent or crooked. The sail is made of mats; the rope they make use of is
exactly like ours, and some of it is four or five inch. On the platform is
built a little shed or hut, which screens the crew from the sun and
weather, and serves for other purposes. They also carry a moveable fire-
hearth, which is a square, but shallow trough of wood, filled with stones.
The way into the hold of the canoe is from off the platform, down a sort of
uncovered hatchway, in which they stand to bale out the water. I think
these vessels are navigated either end foremost, and that, in changing
tacks, they have only occasion to shift or jib round the sail; but of this
I was not certain, as I had not then seen any under sail, or with the mast
and sail an end, but what were a considerable distance from us.
Their working tools are made of stone, bone, shells, &c. as at the other
islands. When we view the work which is performed with these tools, we are
struck with admiration at the ingenuity and patience of the workman. Their
knowledge of the utility of iron was no more than sufficient to teach them
to prefer nails to beads, and such trifles; some, but very few, would
exchange a pig for a large nail, or a hatchet. Old jackets, shirts, cloth,
and even rags, were in more esteem than the best edge-tool we could give
them; consequently they got but few axes from us but what were given as
presents. But if we include the nails which were given by the officers and
crews of both ships for curiosities, &c. with those given for refreshments,
they cannot have got less than five hundred weight, great and small. The
only piece of iron we saw among them was a small broad awl, which had been
made of a nail.
Both men and women are of a common size with Europeans; and their colour is
that of a lightish copper, and more uniformly so than amongst the
inhabitants of Otaheite and the Society Isles. Some of our gentlemen were
of opinion these were a much handsomer race; others maintained a contrary
opinion, of which number I was one. Be this as it may, they have a good
shape, and regular features, and are active, brisk, and lively. The women,
in particular, are the merriest creatures I ever met with, and will keep
chattering by one's side, without the least invitation, or considering
whether they are understood, provided one does but seem pleased with them.
In general they appeared to be modest; although there was no want of those
of a different stamp; and as we had yet some venereal complaints on board,
I took all possible care to prevent the disorder being communicated to
them. On most occasions they shewed a strong propensity to pilfering; in
which they were full as expert as the Otaheitans.
Their hair in general is black, but more especially that of the women.
Different colours were found among the men, sometimes on the same head,
caused by something they put upon it, which stains it white, red, and blue.
Both sexes wear it short; I saw but two exceptions to this custom, and the
most of them combed it upwards. Many of the boys had it cut very close,
except a single lock on the top of the head, and a small quantity on each
side. The men cut or shave their beards quite close, which operation is
performed with two shells. They have fine eyes, and in general good teeth,
even to an advanced age. The custom of _tattowing_ or puncturing the
skin prevails. The men are _tattowed_ from the middle of the thigh to
above the hips. The women have it only on their arms and fingers; and there
but very slightly.
The dress of both sexes consists of a piece of cloth or matting wrapped
round the waist, and hanging down below the knees. From the waist, upwards,
they are generally naked; and it seemed to be a custom to anoint these
parts every morning. My friend Attago never failed to do it; but whether
out of respect to his friend, or from custom, I will not pretend to say;
though I rather think from the latter, as he was not singular in the
practice.
Their ornaments are amulets, necklaces, and bracelets of bones, shells, and
beads of mother-of-pearl, tortoise-shell, &c. which are worn by both sexes.
The women also wear on their fingers neat rings made of tortoise-shell, and
pieces in their ears about the size of a small quill; but ear ornaments are
not commonly worn, though all have their ears pierced. They have also a
curious apron made of the outside fibres of the cocoa-nut shell, and
composed of a number of small pieces sewed together in such a manner as to
form stars, half-moons, little squares, &c. It is studded with beads of
shells, and covered with red feathers, so as to have a pleasing effect.
They make the same kind of cloth, and of the same materials, as at
Otaheite; though they have not such a variety, nor do they make any so
fine; but, as they have a method of glazing it, it is more durable, and
will resist rain for some time, which Otaheite cloth will not. Their
colours are black, brown, purple, yellow, and red; all made from
vegetables. They make various sorts of matting; some of a very fine
texture, which is generally used for clothing; and the thick and stronger
sort serves to sleep on, and to make sails for their canoes, &c. Among
other useful utensils, they have various sorts of baskets; some are made of
the same materials as their mats; and others of the twisted fibres of
cocoa-nuts. These are not only durable but beautiful; being generally
composed of different colours, and studded with beads made of shells or
bones. They have many little nick-nacks amongst them; which shews that they
neither want taste to design, nor skill to execute, whatever they take in
hand.
How these people amuse themselves in their leisure hours, I cannot say, as
we are but little acquainted with their diversions. The women frequently
entertained us with songs, in a manner which was agreeable enough. They
accompany the music by snapping their fingers, so as to keep time to it.
Not only their voices, but their music was very harmonious, and they have a
considerable compass in their notes. I saw but two musical instruments
amongst them. One was a large flute made of a piece of bamboo, which they
fill with their noses as at Otaheite; but these have four holes or stops,
whereas those of Otaheite have only two. The other was composed of ten or
eleven small reeds of unequal lengths, bound together side by side, as the
Doric pipe of the ancients is said to have been; and the open ends of the
reeds into which they blow with their mouths, are of equal height, or in a
line. They have also a drum, which, without any impropriety, may be
compared to an hollow log of wood. The one I saw was five feet six inches
long, and thirty inches in girt, and had a slit in it, from the one end to
the other, about three inches wide, by means of which it had been hollowed
out. They beat on the side of this log with two drum-sticks, and produce an
hollow sound, not quite so musical as that of an empty cask.
The common method of saluting one another is by touching or meeting noses,
as is done in New Zealand, and their sign of peace to strangers, is the
displaying a white flag or flags; at least such were displayed to us, when
we first drew near the shore. But the people who came first on board
brought with them some of the pepper plant, and sent it before them into
the ship; a stronger sign of friendship than which one could not wish for.
From their unsuspicious manner of coming on board, and of receiving us at
first on shore, I am of opinion, they are seldom disturbed by either
foreign or domestic troubles. They are, however, not unprovided with very
formidable weapons; such as clubs and spears, made of hard wood, also bows
and arrows. The clubs are from three to five feet in length, and of various
shapes. Their bows and arrows are but indifferent; the former being very
slight, and the latter only made of a slender reed, pointed with hard wood.
Some of their spears have many barbs, and must be very dangerous weapons
where they take effect. On the inside of the bow is a groove, in which is
put the arrow; from which it would seem that they use but one.
They have a singular custom of putting every thing you give them to their
heads, by way of thanks, as we conjectured. This manner of paying a
compliment, is taught them from their very infancy; for when we gave things
to little children, the mother lifted up the child's hand to its head. They
also used this custom in their exchanges with us; whatever we gave them for
their goods, was always applied to the head, just as if it had been given
them for nothing. Sometimes they would look at our goods, and if not
approved, return them back; but whenever they applied them to the head, the
bargain was infallibly struck. When I had made a present to the chief of
any thing curious, I frequently saw it handed from one to another; and
every one, into whose hands it came, put it to the head. Very often the
women would take hold of my hand, kiss it, and lift it to their heads. From
all this it should seem, that this custom, which they call
_fagafatie_, has various significations according as it is applied;
all, however, complimentary.
It must be observed, that the sullen chief or king did not pay me any of
these compliments for the presents I made him.
A still more singular custom prevails in these isles: We observed that the
greater part of the people, both men and women, had lost one, or both their
little fingers. We endeavoured, but in vain, to find out the reason of
this mutilation; for no one would take any pains to inform us. It was
neither peculiar to rank, age, or sex; nor is it done at any certain age,
as I saw those of all ages on whom the amputation had been just made; and,
except some young children, we found few who had both hands perfect. As it
was more common among the aged than the young, some of us were of opinion
that it was occasioned by the death of their parents, or some other near
relation. But Mr Wales one day met with a man, whose hands were both
perfect, of such an advanced age, that it was hardly possible his parents
could be living. They also burn or make incisions in their cheeks, near the
cheek-bone. The reason of this was equally unknown to us. In some, the
wounds were quite fresh; in others, they could only be known by the scars,
or colour of the skin. I saw neither sick nor lame amongst them; all
appeared healthy, strong, and vigorous; a proof of the goodness of the
climate in which they live.
I have frequently mentioned a king, which implies the government being in a
single person, without knowing for certain whether it is so or no. Such an
one was however pointed out to us; and we had no reason to doubt it. From
this, and other circumstances, I am of opinion that the government is much
like that of Otaheite: That is, in a king or great chief, who is here
called Areeke, with other chiefs under him, who are lords of certain
districts, and perhaps sole proprietors, to whom the people seem to pay
great obedience. I also observed a third rank, who had not a little
authority over the common people; my friend Attago was one of these. I am
of opinion that all the land on. _Tongatabu_ is private property, and
that there are here, as at Otaheite, a set of people, who are servants or
slaves, and have no property in land. It is unreasonable to suppose every
thing in common in a country so highly cultivated as this. Interest being
the greatest spring which animates the hand of industry, few would toil in
cultivating and planting the land, if they did not expect to reap the fruit
of their labour: Were it otherwise, the industrious man would be in a worse
state than the idle sluggard. I frequently saw parties of six, eight, or
ten people, bring down to the landing place fruit and other things to
dispose of, where one person, a man or woman, superintended the sale of the
whole; no exchanges were made but with his or her consent; and whatever we
gave in exchange was always given them, which I think plainly shewed them
to be the owners of the goods, and the others no more than servants. Though
benevolent nature has been very bountiful to these isles, it cannot be said
that the inhabitants are wholly exempt from the curse of our forefathers:
Part of their bread must be earned by the sweat of their brows. The high
state of cultivation their lands are in, must have cost them immense
labour. This is now amply rewarded by the great produce, of which every one
seems to partake. No one wants the common necessaries of life; joy and
contentment are painted in every face. Indeed, it can hardly be otherwise;
an easy freedom prevails among all ranks of people; they feel no wants
which they do not enjoy the means of gratifying; and they live in a clime
where the painful extremes of heat and cold are equally unknown. If nature
has been wanting in any thing, it is in the article of fresh water, which
as it is shut up in the bowels of the earth, they are obliged to dig for. A
running stream was not seen, and but one well, at Amsterdam. At Middleburg,
we saw no water but what the natives had in vessels; but as it was sweet
and cool, I had no doubt of its being taken up upon the island; and
probably not far from the spot where I saw it.
So little do we know of their religion, that I hardly dare mention it. The
buildings called _Afiatoucas_, before mentioned, are undoubtedly set
apart for this purpose. Some of our gentlemen were of opinion, that they
were merely burying-places. I can only say, from my own knowledge, that
they are places to which particular persons directed set speeches, which I
understood to be prayers, as hath been already related. Joining my opinion
with that of others, I was inclined to think that they are set apart to be
both temples and burying-places, as at Otaheite, or even in Europe. But I
have no idea of the images being idols; not only from what I saw myself,
but from Mr Wales's informing me that they set one of them up, for him and
others to shoot at.
One circumstance shewed that these _Afiatoucas_ were frequently
resorted to, for one purpose or other--the areas, or open places, before
them, being covered with a green sod, the grass on which was very short.
This did not appear to have been cut, or reduced by the hand of man, but to
have been prevented in its growth, by being often trod, or sat upon.
It cannot be supposed that we could know much, either of their civil or
religious policy, in so short a time as four or five days, especially as we
understood but little of their language: Even the two islanders we had on
board could not at first understand them, and yet as we became the more
acquainted with them, we found their language was nearly the same spoken at
Otaheite and the Society Isles. The difference not being greater than what
we find betwixt the most northern and western parts of England, as will
more fully appear by the vocabulary.