JOURNEY'S END
The little coral island of Bancoran lies in the middle of the Sulu Sea,
quite outside the usual routes of travel. It is inhabited only by birds,
and people seldom or never go there. But we wanted to obtain, if we
could, some new species of gulls or terns for the Bureau of Science at
Manila, and also to enjoy the mysterious sea gardens which are found
among the southern reefs. Just after tiffin the island was sighted,
lying quite alone by itself in milky green water. The ship stopped and
launches were dropped overboard, and a glass-bottomed boat which had
been brought along for our use.
The afternoon was ideal--the sky blue and fleeced with snowy clouds
piled high, while the intense sun shining on the water flashed back a
hundred shades of blue and green and mauve. On one side of the island,
which floated like an emerald among sapphires, outstanding rocks chafed
the seas into foaming surf, while on the other a long, narrow beach lay
shimmering, pale yellow in the sunlight. The island itself was covered
with a thick jungle of trees, which were dotted with thousands of
resting birds. As we drew nearer they saw us and were afraid, rising and
soaring and circling in the clear, pure air, and crying out at us. Flock
after flock of sea fowl flew wonderingly over our small craft, their
white breasts tinted green with the light reflected from the water.
It was like a Robinson Crusoe island, lost out there in the lonely sea.
But there were shells of huge turtles, and bones of birds, which
suggested that sometime a feast must have been held there, so it was not
wholly undiscovered and unexplored. Among the great roots of the trees
the birds had built their nests from leaves. The eggs in some of them
were white and about the size of hens' eggs. Several varieties of
boobies and terns were found, some brown with green-blue eyes, others
ivory-white. A few specimens were shot, and one or two were taken back
alive to the _Rizal_ for the museum. Previous to this visit the
ornithologists had never known to what islands the boobies and frigate
birds came to nest, although the scientists had long been searching for
the place, so the expedition was well worth while.
But the sea gardens interested me more than the birds or even the
island. If Alice could have had her choice in entering Wonderland, she
would surely have selected a doorway leading through a glass-bottomed
boat, instead of dropping down a rabbit's hole. Beneath the water, which
was crystal clear, we could see a strange country with new flowers and
peculiar creatures. Where it was sandy and shallow we saw below us
fields of green sea grass, on which the fairies must surely have used
lawn-mowers, it was so neatly kept.
Interspersed among the fields were beds of feathery, lace-like
vegetation unnamed in the language of our party. Passing one expanse
after another of this submarine pasturage, we saw depressions in the
coral, where tiny fishes played or unknown water creatures had
established a little world for themselves and were living in its narrow
confines quite unconscious of what went on in the surrounding vastness.
Drifting on into deeper water, we came to a ghost-like gray world of
curls and feathers, trembling with life, a forest of pale trees and
swaying brown ones, of high hills and dark valleys, made by coral reefs.
Pretty rock gardens came into view, where there were cabbages with blue
edges, sea anemones and purple fans, a huge toadstool, a giant fungus,
and a cactus plant--at least, that is what they looked like to us. There
were rainbow shells, too, half hidden, and great blue starfish clinging
to the rocks. In and out among the sponges and the brown coral branches,
which were so much like antlers, swam curious fishes. Such gorgeous
colours--so vivid and in such brilliant combinations! Some were big
green fellows, with needle noses; others were electric blue and silver;
there were black and yellow ones, too, and striped fishes that looked
like sly prisoners dodging their keepers.[27]
[Illustration: ONE DAY'S CATCH OF FISH.]
We passed the greater part of the afternoon marooned on this far-away
island, some of us going bathing off the shallow, sandy beaches in the
clear water. As evening came on we regretfully left the fairy island of
Bancoran, and sailed away by the rising moon.
The Penal Colony on Palawan, which I have described in another chapter,
was our next point of interest. We left there behind schedule and met a
stronger current than we had expected, sweeping down the coast of Panay,
so that it was no wonder that we were late in approaching Iloilo. This
was especially unfortunate, for very generous preparations had been made
there for the Secretary's reception and an interesting series of events
arranged, all of which was upset by the delay.
It was sunset when we finally sighted the town. As we cruised up the
steeply palisaded coast, with the low-lying foreground of Panay on the
other side, backed by its fine ranges of mountains, the effects were
most beautiful. The old Spanish fort on its point looked mysterious in
the afterglow, and the skies were magnificently alight. A fleet of much
beflagged launches and steamers came out to meet the Secretary,
whistling a welcome, and turning, escorted the _Rizal_.
Next to Manila, Iloilo is the most important port in the Islands, and
has a better climate than its rival. The people here are supposed to be
wealthier and more aristocratic than elsewhere. The Payne bill, which
had been in operation only a short time, had brought such a return of
prosperity to the land, and especially to the planters of this fertile
province, that they were all very enthusiastic about Americans, and did
all they could to express their gratitude.
We were invited for dinner at half after seven, but it was an hour later
before we sat down to the long table in the large and rather empty room,
with its handsome Venetian mirrors at either end, and its sliding
shutters wide open to the night. There were no ladies present except
those of our party. We could never tell how things would be
arranged,--sometimes there would be Filipina ladies, and sometimes there
would not; sometimes the ladies would all be placed together at one side
of the table, and again they would be seated next to the men. While
waiting for dinner to be announced, we sat about in an airy room, with
half-dressed servants peeping in at us, and a phonograph playing
Caruso records.
[Illustration: VIEW IN ILOILO, ILOILO, SHOWING HIGH SCHOOL GROUNDS.]
After dinner we had a long drive out through the town, which seemed
quite business-like and prosperous. They had rebuilt some of the fine,
large, wide-open houses, most of which had been destroyed by the
insurrectos. (On the nearby island of Negros, we were told, there were
many fine _haciendas_ with great houses full of carved work which I was
sorry not to see.) Passing through suburbs of nipa houses standing up on
their stilts in the moonlight, we came to a plaza gaily illuminated, and
to our destination, a mansion approached by a triumphal arch. In the
best houses the living rooms are on the second floor, just as in the
poorer ones they are raised above the ground on stilts. So here we went
upstairs to a great room hung with festoons of flags, where the little
women in their bright and varied dresses passing and repassing made a
gay scene. It was here, indeed, that we saw some of the prettiest and
best dressed women whom we met on our trip.
Most of the following day was spent cruising along the coast of Panay,
passing between its fine outlying islands, which reminded us of the
Inland Sea of Japan. In the afternoon we came to the entrance of the
river on which Capiz is located. The Secretary crossed overland on the
first train to run on the new railway, in order to drive in the silver
spikes that completed the line.
No dinners had been planned there for those of us who had come by ship,
so we did not start up river until half after eight. Capiz is only four
miles from the mouth, but they were the longest miles we had ever
experienced, for by some mistake the pilot did not arrive, so we went in
a _Rizal_ launch without one. We just struggled along as well as we
could in the dark till the moon came up, which only mystified us the
more with its deceptive shadows. Half a dozen times we ran deep into mud
banks, and the sailormen were forced to jump overboard and shove us off.
They did not appear to enjoy doing this, and no wonder, for it was a
crocodile river.
Swarms of fireflies, which gathered on favourite trees, made a very
Christmas-like effect with their throbbing lights. They were lovely,
too, in the dark shore shadows, and made sparkling reflections in the
black river stream. Watching them we could almost forget our troubles.
[Illustration: THE OLD AUGUSTINIAN CHURCH, MANILA.]
Finally, after much winding round and backing off, we turned a bend and
saw a line of little twinkling lights strung along the shore and on
floating barges, giving quite a Venetian effect and showing us the town
by their reflection. Landing, we walked across the grassy square to the
provincial building, with its open courtyards, where there was to be a
ball. We danced a rigodon as usual, and stopped late with the Governor
General, who liked to show his interest in these functions, of which the
Filipinos think so much. There were three bands, which vied with each
other for applause.
Next morning we got away early on our last leg for Manila and the end of
our never-to-be-forgotten journey in the Land of Pine and Palm--that
far-away, unfamiliar country where your head gets full of strange
thoughts, your body of queer feelings, and your heart has great
longings.
We crowded everything we could into those few last days in Manila, for
we were loath to think of leaving anything undone. Besides packing and
shopping, there were teas and dinners, and the army and navy reception.
This was lovely, for it was held in the courtyard filled with trees
which were hung with dim lanterns. The good looking officers with their
white duck uniforms and brass buttons added to the attractiveness of the
scene. The men of our party were even busier than we, for they had
several banquets to which we were not invited. In my husband's journal I
find the chronicle of a typical day. After describing the events of a
busy morning, he says: "In the afternoon, there was a reception to meet
the constabulary, at four; the opening of the new hospital, a most
complete and wonderful one, at half after four; the laying of the corner
stone at five for the new hotel, which is a very ambitious project and
will make all the difference in the world as far as touring in the
Philippines is concerned; in the evening, a dinner, and after that a
reception, and a dance."
Manila seemed more picturesque, and to have even more atmosphere, as I
came to know it better. The old walls and churches and plazas and
corners and quarters; the Pasig with its cascos and bancas plying about;
the narrow streets winding through the suburbs, with old moss-covered
walls, and peeps of tangled gardens within, and balustraded terraces,
and the bowers of the pink blossoming "chain of love." It is indeed
well-named the Pearl of the Orient.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
ATKINSON, F. W.: The Philippine Islands
ALEXANDER, MARY C.: The Story of Hawaii
ALEXANDER, W. D.: Brief History of the Hawaiian People
AMERICAN GIRL, AN: Seven Weeks in Hawaii
BANCROFT, HUBERT H.: The New Pacific
BRIGGS, CHARLES W.: Progressive Philippines
BLAIR, EMMA H.: The Philippine Islands
BARRON, DAVID: History of the Philippines
BISHOP, ISABELLA L.: The Hawaiian Archipelago
BLACKMAN, WILLIAM F.: The Making of Hawaii
COAN, TITUS: Life in Hawaii
COAN, T. M.: Climate of Hawaii
---- Hawaiian Ethnography
CASTLE, WILLIAM R., JR.: Hawaii Past and Present
CHAMBERS, H. E.: Constitutional History of Hawaii
CROW, CARL: America and the Philippines
CHAMBERLIN, FREDERICK: The Philippine Problem
DAUNCEY, MRS. CAMPBELL: The Philippines
DEVENS, JOHN B.: An Observer in the Philippines
DAY, MRS. E. F.: Princess of Manoa
EMERSON, N. B.: Unwritten Literature of Hawaii
FEE, MARY H.: A Woman's Impressions of the Philippines
FOREMAN, J.: The Philippine Islands
FORNANDER, ABRAHAM: The Polynesian Race
HAWAIIAN ANNUAL for 1915
HAWAIIAN ISLANDS, Report of Commission of Agriculture and Forestry
HAWAII, a Primer--answers to queries
HITCHCOCK, C. H.: Hawaii and its Volcanoes
JERNEGAN, PRESCOTT F.: A Short History of the Philippines
JORDAN AND EDERMANN: Aquatic Resources of Hawaii
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS: List of books on Hawaii
LINDSEY, FORBES: The Philippines
LE ROY, JAMES A.: Philippine Life in Town and Country
---- Americans in the Philippines
LAWRENCE, MARY S.: Old Time Hawaiians and their Wok
LYMAN, H. M.: Hawaiian Yesterdays
MOSES, MRS. M. E. B.: Unofficial Letters of an Official's Wife
MAUS, L. M.: An Army Officer on Leave in Japan
MUSICK, JOHN R.: Hawaii: our New Possession
MATHER, HELEN: One Summer in Hawaii
ROBINSON, ALBERT G.: The War and the People
STODDARD, C. W.: South-sea Idyls
SAWYER, FREDERICK H.: The Inhabitants of the Philippines
STEVENS, J. E.: Yesterdays in the Philippines
TAFT, MRS. WILLIAM H.: Recollections of Full Years
WESTERVELT, W. E.: Legends of Old Honolulu
WORCESTER, DEAN C.: The Philippines, Past and Present
WILLIAMS, D. R.: The Odyssey of the Philippine Commission
YOUNG, LUCIEN: The Real Hawaii
INDEX
A
Agriculture and Forestry, Bureau of, 99
Aguinaldo, Emilio, 159, 173-175, 181-183, 188-193, 195-196, 199, 204
Aldecoa and Company, 265
Alden, C. S. (quoted), 71
Alexander Young Hotel, 20
Amburayan, 270
Anderson, General Thomas, 72, 145, 180, 187, 192
Captain Tom, 145, 296
Andrews, Louis, 62
Antipolo, 320
Apayao, 270
Archbishop of Manila, 166
Armstrong, Fort, 25
General, 62
Army and Navy Club, 146, 296
Assembly, 125, 138, 209, 215-217, 236
Asturia, Governor, 351
Atimonan, 307, 308
Augustinian Church, 129
B
Babuyan Islands, the, 261
Baginda, Raja, 326
Bagobos, the, 257, 339, 345, 348
Baguio, 213, 246-249, 251, 253, 272
Bahr, Abu, 326
Balangiga, 317
Balintan Channel, 268
Bancoran, 353, 357
Bandholtz, General, 309
Barry, Lieutenant, 340
Bashee Rocks, 261, 262
Batan (islands), 261, 262, 264, 269
Bates, General, 198
Bauang, 247
Bautilan, 328
Bay, Lake of, 131
Beacom, Major, 335
Beardsley, Admiral and Mrs., 16
Benguet, 270
Road, 247, 249
Berger, Captain, 14, 74
Biacnabato, 174
Treaty of, 175
Bilibid Prison, 237-239, 241, 242, 313
Bill of Rights, 58
Bingham, Hiram, 10
Bishop, Bernice Pauahi, 11, 72
Hon. Charles R., 12
Museum, 11
Black Crook, 249
Blayney, Professor Thomas
Lindsey (quoted), 220
Boca Chica, 123
Boca Grande, 178
Bohol, 318
Boki, Chief, 10
Bolinao Light, 274
Bonifacio, Andres, 171, 174
Bontoc, 229, 236, 270, 287-289
Book, Captain, 16
Botel Tobago, 262
Brent, Bishop, 132
Brigham, Professor, 11
_Britannia_, the, 51
Bryan, William Jennings, 199, 206-207
Bud Dajo, 350
Buencamino, 183
C
Cagayan, 131
Calkins, Mr., 309
Capiz, 360
Carter, General W. H., 26
Charles L., 78
George R., 78, 79
Mr. George, 5
Castle, Mr., 4, 14, 112
Mrs., 14
_Castilla_, the, 179
Catbalogan, 317
Cavite, 138, 166, 173, 179, 181, 182, 204
Cebu, 150, 152, 318, 320, 322
Celebes Sea, 340
Cervantes, 283, 284
Charcca, the, 317
_Charleston_, the, 269
Chinese, the (in the Philippines), 159
Chino Charlie, 352
Cleghorn, Governor, 15
Cleveland, President, 77
College of Medicine and Surgery, 141
Commission, the (first), 207
Commission, the second (or Taft), 207, 209-211, 215, 216, 219
Constabulary Band, 125, 137
Cook, Captain (James), 35, 37, 48, 49, 114, 115, 150
Corregidor, 123, 138, 178, 296
Cotobato (river), 340
town, 341
Cotton, Captain, 16
Cromer, Lord, 221
_Crook_, the, 273, 274
Culion, 232-235
D
Dalupiri, 265
Damien, Father, 72
Dampier, William, 152, 262, 327
Darrach, Marshall, 139
Data, Mount, 285
Daughters of Hawaii, the, 22
Davis, Isaac, 50
DeRussy, Fort, 25
Dewey, Admiral, 177-181, 184, 186, 192
(quoted), 190
_Dewey_, the (dock), 273
Diamond Head, 4, 19, 25
Dickinson, Mr. (Secretary of War), 20, 125, 126, 127, 131, 136, 139,
145, 146, 232, 252, 272, 273, 277, 278, 279, 295, 299, 325, 337, 341
Mrs., 125, 127, 136, 139, 140, 145, 251, 252, 308, 336
Din, Alimund, 328
Ditch Trail, 107
Dole, Rev. Daniel, 8
Sanford B., 8, 9, 16, 77-79
Dominis, John C., 76
Doyle, Sergeant, 278
Drake, Sir Francis, 151
Duvall, General, 146, 273
Mrs., 146
E
Early, 275
Education, Bureau of, 248
Edwards, General, 131, 272, 300
El Chico de Cagayan River, 287
El Fraile, 178
Emerson (quoted), 42
Emma, Queen, 65, 66
Escolta, the, 130
Ethnology, Bureau of, 141
F
"Father Alexander," 106
"Filipino Republic," the, 190
Filipinos, 124, 136, 137, 171, 183, 185-189, 193, 195-196, 201, 215,
219, 222, 241, 245, 298, 342
Finch, Captain, 3
Forbes, Governor General Cameron, 125, 127, 131, 139, 212-215, 221,
239, 243, 248, 272, 276, 277, 283, 317, 361
Fornander, A. (quoted), 42
Frear, Judge Walter F., 80
French Frigatis Shoal, 66
Funston (General), 25, 199
Furness, Dr., 4
G
Gallman, 275, 280
Gilbert, Vice-Governor, 254
Gimbungen (dato), 342
Government Dormitory for Girls, 140
Government Laboratories, Bureau of, 141
Green Lake, 112
Gridley, Captain, 3, 179
Guam, 72, 119, 199, 262
H
Halawa, 63
Haleakala, 107
Halemaumau, 60, 110
Hanalei River, 115
Harrison, Governor General, 212, 213, 219
Hauula, 103
Hawaii (island of), 8, 39, 82
Republic of, 78
Hawaiian Commercial Sugar Company, 81
Hawaiians (ethnology of), 29
Heiberg, Major, 343
Heiser, Dr., 221, 230-232, 234-236, 323
Hilgard, Captain, 251
Hilo, 60, 62, 91, 102, 108, 110, 112
Hina, 35
Hoapili, 62
Honaunau, 113
Honolulu, 4, 5, 6, 9, 10, 21, 25, 65, 67, 72, 102, 103, 104, 181
Hualalai, 113
I
Iao Valley, 107
Ide, H. C., 208
Ifugao, 270
Ifugaos, the, 271, 277, 280-283, 289, 293
Igorots, the, 251, 253, 255, 277, 286, 288-290, 294, 337
Ilocanos, the, 275
Iloilo, 357-358
Ilongots, the, 255, 258-259
Immigration, Bureau of, 100
Inter-Island Navigation Company, 104
boats, 112
Internal Revenue, Bureau of, 221
Iraya, Mt., 269
Irwin, Mr., 4
Isabella II, Queen, 164
Isola Grande, 273, 274
Itbayat Island, 265
Iwahig River, 240
Iyeyasu, Shogun, 156
J
Japanese-American Citizens' Association, 116
Japanese (women laborers), 83-85
as Hawaiians, 116-118
Jesuits, the, 164, 165, 166
John Hay, Camp, 248, 251
Jones Bill, the, 222
Jota, the, 317
K
Kaawaloa, 114
Kahanamoku, Duke, 91
Kahului, 102
Kailua, 53, 114
Kaiulani, Princess, 77
Kakuhihewa, 6
Kalaimoku, 56
Kalakaua, King, 9, 73-75, 81, 118
Prince, 118
Kalamba, 131, 204
Kalanianaole, Prince Jonah Kuhio, 79
Kalanikupule, 22
Kalinga, 270
Kalingas, the, 271, 272, 289-292
Kaliuwaa, falls of, 103
Kamehameha I (the Great), 6, 11, 22, 48, 50-54, 106
heiau of, 112
birthplace of, 114
Kamehameha II, 54, 55, 57
Kamehameha III, 6, 12, 57, 59, 65
Kamehameha IV, 65
Kamehameha V, 72
Kamehameha, Fort, 25
Kamehameha School, 12
Kamehamehas, the, 31
Kanaloa, 34, 39
Kane, 34, 39, 41, 42
Kapiolani, 59, 60, 74
Katipunan, the, 169, 170-173
Kau, 112, 113
Kauai, 8, 71, 82, 115
Kawaiahao Church, 9
Kawaihae, 112
Keanonako, 12, 13
Keawe-Mauhili, 60
Keithley, Camp, 325, 334
Kilauea, 51, 60, 66, 104, 109, 112
Kinau, 12
Kohala, 114
ditch, 114
Kona, 91, 112, 113, 114
Konia, 12
Kotta, 297
Koxinga, 158
Ku, 39
Kuhio, Prince, 118
L
_Lackawanna_, the, 66, 67, 68, 70, 71
Ladrone Islands, the, 116, 150
Lahaina, 106
Laka, 40, 41, 42, 49
Lamb, Mr., 240, 244
Mrs., 244
Lanao, Lake, 325, 334
Lawton, General, 195
Legarda, Mr., 131, 298
Legaspi, Miguel Lopez de, 152, 153, 158
Legaspi, 317
Lepanto, 270
Liholiho, 56
Liliuokalani, Queen, 9, 12, 75-78
Li Ma Hong, 156
Lono, 39, 49
Los Banos, 131
Lucena, 298, 302, 307
Lunalilo Home, 12
Prince, 73
Luneta, the, 126, 146, 185
Luzon, 133, 172, 176, 196, 198, 245, 257, 261, 271, 275, 297
M
MacArthur, General, 194, 196, 198
Macfarlane, Mrs., 15
Macomb, General M. M., 25
Magellan, 150, 151
Makadum, 326
Makapuu Point Light, 21
Malabang, 340
Malacañan, Palace of, 126, 136
Malays, 149, 154, 245, 326
Malolos, 191, 195
Mandi, Dato, 346
Mangyans, 241
Manila, 123, 124, 128, 152, 156, 157, 159, 160, 166, 171, 173, 186,
193, 199, 222, 227, 249, 314, 315, 328
sight-seeing in, 128-147, 361-362
Manila Bay, 3, 123, 138, 157, 178
Battle of, 177, 184
Manila-Dagupan Railroad, 315
Manilibang, Dato, 337
Manobos, the, 339, 343, 345
_Marian_, the, 16
Mariveles, 123
Marshall Islands, 116
Maui Island, 8, 40, 44, 51, 62, 81, 82, 106
East, 107
demi-god, 35, 40
Mauna Kea, 108
Mauna Loa, 108, 109, 113
Mayon, Mount, 308
_McCulloch_, the, 178
McKimmon, Father, 314
McKinley, Fort, 132, 220
President, 183, 200, 207, 209
Menehunes, the, 116
Merritt, General, 183, 192
Mexico, 152, 153, 156, 157, 204
Mexicans, 192
Midway Island (Brooks), 67, 69, 70, 123
Mindanao, 150, 166, 171, 322, 325-327, 331, 339, 340
Mines, Bureau of, 141
Mirador, 253
Mitchell, Major, 266
Moanalua, 25
Molokai, 8, 63, 73, 105
Montojo, Admiral, 179
Moros, the, 124, 150, 171, 209, 222, 241, 245, 322, 325-339, 341, 342,
345-348, 350-352
Moro Province, 346
Moses, Professor, 208
Mountain Province, the, 270, 288
Musick (quoted), 18
N
Namaka, 23
Nangnui, Hadji, 347, 351
Negritos, 149, 253, 256-257
_Negros_, the, 295
island of, 359
Neumann, Paul, 15
"Noli Me Tangere" ("The Social Cancer"), 170
Nozaleda, Archbishop, 184
Nueva Viscaya, 258
Nuuanu, battle of, 22
valley, 23, 51
O
Oahu, 4, 5, 6, 8, 18, 25, 32, 51, 52, 82, 88, 103, 119
College, 8, 9
Obookiah (Opukahaia), 55
Ocampo, Pablo, 204
"Occupation Day," 296
Olongapo, 273
_Olympia_, the, 4, 178, 179
Osmeña, Mr., 298
Otis, General, 192, 194, 198
Overton, Camp, 325
P
Paahana, 93
Paao, 31, 37
Pack, Governor, 200
Pagsanjan, 131
Paki, 12
Pakuanui, 23
Palawan, 239, 240, 357
Pali, the, 22, 23, 24, 52, 103
Panama Canal, 100, 119
Panay, 357, 359
Papa, 5, 30
Parker, Sam, 15
Pasig River, 127, 128, 225
Patterson, Admiral, 160
Paulet, Lord George, 61
Payne Bill, 358
Pearl Harbour, 21, 22, 24, 32
Pele, 37, 40, 43, 44, 51, 60, 110
Perkins, Commodore, 71
Pershing, General, 349
_Philadelphia_, the, 16
Philip II, 151
Philip III, 177
Philip V, 328
Philippine General Hospital, 141
Piang, Dato, 326, 342
Pili, 31
Pinkham, Governor, 80
Plaza McKinley, 129
Poison God, the, 105
Polo Club, 131
Polynesia, 30, 39, 40
Polynesians, 29, 30
Puerto Princessa, 240
Punahou, 8
Punchbowl, 4, 19, 20, 103
Q
Queen's Hospital, 9, 65
Quezon, Mr., 298, 301
R
Reciprocity Treaty, 24, 73, 81, 100
_Reina Christina_, the, 179
Reynolds, Captain William, 69
Rivera, Primo de, 175
Rizal, 131, 170-172
Rizal, the, 296, 308, 309, 318, 322, 343, 354, 358
Rojesvenski, Admiral, 269
Root, Elihu, 300
Royal Hawaiian Band, 14, 74
Royal Hawaiian Hotel, the, 6
Ruger, Fort, 25
Russell, Sturgis, Oliphant and Company, 308
Ruth, Princess, 81
S
Sacaluran, Dato, 347
_Saginaw_, the, 71
Samar, 317
Sandwich Islands, 49
San Lazaro, 157, 227, 231
San Mateo, 195
San Miguel, 130
Santa Cruz, 195
Santa Maria Cristina, 334
Santiago, Fort, 172
Sargent, Major, 340
School of Arts and Trades, the, 312
Science, Bureau of, 141, 142, 353
Seaman's Act, 86
Sepulchre, Padre, 286
Sewall, Mr., 16
Shafter, Fort, 25
Shark King (story of), 45-47
Sibley, Miss, 133
Sicard, Lieutenant-Commander, 71
Sokabe, Rev. S. (quoted), 117
Spain, 155, 156, 158, 159, 167, 168, 175, 218
Spreckles, Mr. Claus, 81
Stevens, Mr. (Minister to Hawaii), 76
Stoddard, Charles W. (quoted), 24
Strong, Dr. Richard P., 229
Subig Bay, 178, 273
Suez Canal, the, 156, 164
Sugar Planters' Association, 99
Sulu, 326, 350
Sea, 322, 353
Sultan of, 326
Sy Cip, Mr. Alfonso Tarata, 320
T
Taft, President, 126, 137, 207-209
Tagalogs, the (Tagals), 139, 165, 167
Tagudin, 274, 276, 295
Talbot, Lieutenant, 71
Tantalus, Mt., 19
Thatcher, Rear Admiral, 67
Thomas, Admiral, 61
_Times_, the Manila, 216, 349
Tingians, the, 256, 257
Tobaco, 309
Topside, 249
Trail and Mountain Club, 103
Treaty of Paris, the (c. 1762), 159
1899, 206, 207
Twain, Mark (quoted), 8, 105
V
Vancouver, Captain George, 50, 51
Villaloboz, Ruy Lopez de, 151
Visayas, the, 176
W
Wahaula (temple of), 37
Wahiawa, 103
Waialua, 92, 95, 97, 98
Waianae, 82
Waikiki, 10, 15, 17, 20, 25, 103
Wailuku, 106
Waimanu (valley), 115
Waimea, 115
Gulch, 115
Waipio (valley), 115
Wakea, 4, 5, 30
Wekolo Pond, 32
Welles, Mr., 67
White, Dr., 253
Whitmarsh, Mrs., 250
Mr., 251
Widemann, Judge, 4, 14, 82
Wilcox, Robert W., 73
rebellion, 73
Wilder, Mrs., 15
Wilson, President, 79, 212
Wisser, General J. P., 26
Wood, General, 325
Worcester, Mr. Dean C., 141, 142, 208, 213, 218, 228, 248, 272, 286, 300
(quoted), 167, 217, 221, 257, 292, 348, 356
Wright, Luke E., 208
Y
Ynock, 342
Yongs, Mr., 160
Young, Captain Lucien, 74
Young, John, 50
Z
Zamboanga, 331, 343, 349
FOOTNOTES:
[1] When the mamo became rare the natives began to substitute the light
yellow feathers growing under the wings of the _o-o_. This bird is now
extinct.
[2] In the first Reciprocity Treaty with Hawaii, which was signed in
Grant's administration, there was no reference to Pearl Harbour. It was
when the treaty was renewed in a revised form during the administration
of President Harrison, that Hawaii ceded Pearl Harbour to the United
States as a naval base.
[3] General M. M. Macomb was in command from 1911 to 1913, General
Frederick Funston during 1914, General W. H. Carter followed and General
J. P. Wisser is there in command to-day.
[4] Even to a late date this custom has been known in civilized
countries. In France a figure of one's enemy was modeled in wax and was
slowly melted before the fire while being "prayed to death."
[5] The legend which ascribes the creation of man to Kane is only one of
many Hawaiian creation myths, in which other gods figure as fathers of
the human race.
[6] A. Fornander, "The Polynesian Race."
[7] Guam belonged to Spain until Colonel Thomas Anderson stopped there
on his way to the Philippines with the first United States troops. The
Spanish governor had not even heard that war was declared, and when the
ships fired, he thought it was a salute in his honour. He surrendered
the fifteen small islands; fourteen were given back to Spain in the
Treaty of Paris and they were sold to Germany. Guam has an excellent
harbour. It is under the control of the United States Navy at present.
Marines are stationed there.
[8] The party at present in power in the United States appears to have
given very little attention to the Islands, except as a source of income
for deserving Democrats, if we may judge from the latest Democratic
platform. That document contains the promise, "as soon as practicable,
to give a territorial form of government to Hawaii." For eighteen years
they have had it!
[9] When Mr. Dole's term as United States judge expired a few months
ago, President Wilson refused to reappoint him, though all Hawaii
petitioned for him. The position was given to a Democrat.
[10] Castle says Halemaumau really means, "home of the _Maumau_ fern,"
this fern having a leaf much like the curled and twisted lava in shape.
[11] A trip to the Lake of Bay should be taken and to the fertile valley
of the Cagayan. The gorge of Pagsanjan is very beautiful. Los Banos is
an old bathing establishment not far from Kalamba, where Rizal was born.
It is part of a day's trip from Manila to this hot mineral spring, which
was a fashionable resort in days gone by. Now an American military
hospital has been built there.
[12] The American coloured troops in the Philippines certainly deserve
mention. They were among the best fighters we sent out there.
[13] Koxinga was really one of the most noted characters of the Orient
at that time. He was the son of a Japanese mother and a Chinese father,
and seldom has China had a man to compare with him in courage,
enterprise and ability. At the age of twenty-two, he held one of the
highest military commands in his country. With his courage and natural
ability it was his purpose to carve out a kingdom for himself. Being as
shrewd as he was bold, Koxinga made the acquaintance of a Dominican
friar in Amoy, whom he converted into an ambassador and sent to Manila.
Fortunately for the Spaniards, Koxinga's career was cut short by his
early death, in 1662, while still under forty years of age, and just as
he was making preparations to invade the Philippines.
[14] To-day Aguinaldo seems to be a thoroughly "reconstructed rebel," as
this incident told by General Anderson's daughter shows:
"While spending the day with friends who have a sugar estate near
Kalamba, our party was augmented by Aguinaldo, Pablo Ocampo and another
ilustrado whose name I've forgotten. They had come over from Cavite,
where Aguinaldo has his farm, to see this estate with its modern sugar
machinery. After going over the farm very thoroughly with the party I
found myself next the former General at lunch. Conversation was
difficult, as he spoke no English and not very fluent Spanish. I timidly
asked him in desperation of something to say, if he remembered my
father. On learning that he was the first Americano General to fight
him, over fifteen years before, he became most interested, and asked
very warmly to be remembered. When I told him my father was also retired
and settled on his little farm he was pleased and said it was the real
life. I think he is sincerely a farmer and will not be lured back to the
hazards of political life. He is a modest, quiet, diffident little
native of the pure Filipino type. He assured me that his children were
making good progress in English and were at school working hard."
[15] After Mr. Taft had made his journey to Rome to arrange the friar
land question, he received a remarkable ovation upon his return to the
Philippines. When he was appointed Secretary of War, Manila was flooded
with posters bearing the words, in various languages, "We want Taft,"
and such a host of petitions from influential citizens was sent to
Washington that Mr. Roosevelt canceled the appointment. It was not until
some time later that it was renewed and Mr. Taft left the Philippines to
take his seat in the Cabinet at Washington.
[16] It is difficult to realize the importance of the mestizo class in
the Philippines. There are about seventy-five thousand Spanish mestizos
and half a million Chinese mestizos.
[17] Any one who is inclined to regret American rule in the Islands is
cordially invited to read chapter sixteen in Dean Worcester's book, "The
Philippines, Past and Present."
[18] The cause of the pneumonic plague is so little known that it may be
interesting to mention it here. The disease, it is said, is carried by
marmots. It had not broken out since the fourteenth century, because
Manchu hunters had for generations been taught not to kill marmots for
this very reason. But in late years, with the great demand for furs, new
hunters who knew nothing of this, killed the diseased marmots and so
caused an epidemic.
[19] The name "Bashee," originally applied to the Batan Islands, was
derived from an intoxicating drink of that name made from sugar-cane and
berries. It is still used very liberally, especially on all festal
occasions. When Dampier's ships first touched these shores the _Bashee_
was highly regarded by these ancient mariners.
[20] Although we think of Japanese territory as far away from ours, here
it approaches within sixty miles, as I have said, and within twenty-four
miles of Guam the Japanese have lately occupied the former German
islands of the Mariana group. In Bering Straits we are within three
miles of Russian territory. There are two islands, the Diomedes, in the
center of the strait, one of which is owned by Russia and the other by
the United States. We usually consider both Japan and Russia very far
off, but their possessions are in fact almost as near ours as Canada and
Mexico.
[21] An interesting passage from Worcester describes this Kalinga dance
with more detail:
"Into the ring steps the hero of the occasion, dressed in his best
clothes, decked with his gaudiest ornaments, and bearing the shield,
lance and head-ax used in the recent fights. Behind him there creeps
along the ground a strange, shrinking figure, clad in soiled garments,
with a dirty cotton blanket pulled over its head. The hero attracts
attention to himself by emitting a squall which resembles nothing so
much as the yell of a puppy when its tail is heavily trodden upon. He
then begins to speak in a monotonous and highly artificial voice, the
tone and cadences of which are strongly suggestive of those of a
Japanese actor. With word and gesture he describes his recent exploit,
using the shrinking figure beside him as a dummy to represent his fallen
foe. When he stops for breath the ganzas strike up again, and when their
clangour ceases he resumes his narrative. After concluding his
pantomimic discussion of his latest exploit, he describes and boasts of
previous achievements. Incidentally he indulges in high stepping and
high jumping and displays deadly skill in the manipulation of his
weapons. The crowd grows even more excited and, during the intervals
while the ganzas are playing, shrieks its approval and shrills its
monotonous war cry. Finally when his voice has grown hoarse and his
muscles are tired, the principal actor retires and another takes his
place. As darkness comes on, a blazing fire is lighted within the cañao
circle.
"Ultimately the young and vigorous warriors who participated in the
recent fight are succeeded by the old men, who have been kept at home by
the burden of years and infirmities. Strong drink has caused the dying
fire in their veins to flare up for the moment. Each of them has a
history of warlike deeds, which he proceeds to recount. The crowd
already knows his story by heart, and when the forgetfulness of age or
that of intoxication causes him to falter, prompts him and shouts with
laughter at the joke.
"Gradually the _basi_ begins to exert its stupefying effect; but so long
as the music and dancing, and the shouting continue every one manages to
keep awake. At last, food is passed, and in the interval during which it
is being consumed the liquor gets a fair chance to work. As the east
begins to glow with the coming dawn, men and women fall asleep in their
places, or hasten to their homes, and the cañao ends, for the time being
at least."
[22] It is not so well known in this country as in the Far East that the
fine code of laws which we have given the Philippines was drafted by our
great statesman, Elihu Root, with the aid of some suggestions from Mr.
Worcester.
[23] I have taken a few remarks from several speeches.
[24] The ascent of Mt. Mayon is dangerous except for experienced
mountain climbers. The vista from the summit is said to surpass even the
famous view from Mt. Ætna.
[25] The Santo Niño of Cebu has a famous rival in the village of
Antipolo where "Our Lady of Peace and Prosperous Voyages" is found. This
image was brought to the Islands in 1626 by the Spanish government. It
is said the Virgin has crossed the Pacific eight times to and from
Mexico and each time "calmed a tempest."
[26] This great missionary is buried on the island of Sibutu.
[27] Worcester writes in regard to fishing: "There are barracudas of
seven different species, some of which attain a length of six feet and
weigh a hundred pounds or more. Bonitos of four different species have
been taken, and afford fine sport. Croakers and groupers (locally known
as _lapu-lapu_) are found in great variety. Hardtails and leather-jacks,
commonly called _dorados_, are also very abundant. They take the spoon
freely and fight well. There are also several species of mackerel and
_pampano_, which are excellent table fish; and snappers, of which we
have thirty-four known species. The large red snappers fight well.
Sea-bass of two distinct species are common. Specimens weighing fifty to
seventy-five pounds are frequently seen in the markets. The largest
specimen as yet recorded from the Islands weighed three hundred
thirty-four and a fourth pounds.
"Swordfish, nine feet or more in length, may be taken during the cooler
months. Tarpons up to five feet in length may be taken at the proper
season, off the mouths of large streams. The species are distinct from
that found in Atlantic waters, and the young take the fly freely.
"The great, or leaping, tunas are met with in large schools during the
winter months. The natives call them _cachareta_."