CHAPTER V

HEALING A NATION

The sanitary conditions which existed in the Islands twenty odd years

ago would seem to us appalling, but perhaps they were no worse than

those of some other tropical countries at that time. Even the most

progressive colonizers, like the English, had given up trying radical

reforms, contenting themselves with making passably healthful

conditions, especially for the European part of the towns. The

combination of climate and native inertia seemed to them one which it

was difficult and almost hopeless to combat. So it remained for us to

prove that the thing could be done--that a tropical country could be

made sanitary and hygienic for all its inhabitants, whether they were

white or brown or yellow, and whether they wanted it made so or not. If

we had done nothing else for our restless dependency, that achievement

would be a sufficient crown of glory.

Manila was then, as it still is, the most highly civilized spot in the

Islands. As I have said, much of the walled city was built of stone

and plaster, but many of the natives in the suburbs lived in one-room

houses made of wood and raised on stilts. No provision whatever was made

for drainage or for the removal of garbage. Each house was a law unto

itself and very often an offense unto its neighbours.

[Illustration: _A Carabao_]

A large part of the city drained, directly or indirectly, into the Pasig

River. Here, also, the carabao, which is not a fastidious animal, went

for his mud baths, and the women washed their clothes. This river

furnished drinking water for all who lived near enough to share the

privilege. It was said to have a flavour like the Ganges, which they

sorely missed later on when a purer supply was substituted.

The medieval wall, which allowed for many damp, unhealthy corners,

interfered with municipal ventilation. No cleansing winds can sweep

through a city whose every street ends in a high wall. Outside was a

stagnant moat which made a convenient breeding place for the industrious

mosquito.

The local market used to be a community dwelling for all the vendors,

who lived there, reveling in their filth. Their children were born

there, also their dogs, pigs, cats, and chickens. It was so vile

smelling that no American dared go into it. Never being cleaned, it was

the center from which disease was spread to the city.

These markets were the first places to be cleaned by the Americans. The

first step was always to burn up the entire shed, and then build an iron

and concrete structure, which could be washed down every night with a

hose. Only the night watchman was allowed to live there.

This is only typical of changes made in every department, from market to

school, from custom house to palace. To tell a long story very shortly,

gaps have been opened in the city walls to let in the air, the moat has

been filled in with soil dredged from the bay to make a field for

sports, nearby marshes have been reclaimed and old wells filled up,

while a sewerage system and a method of collecting refuse have of course

been established. The new water system has cut the death rate from

water-borne diseases in half. To stop an epidemic whole districts of

huts which could not be fumigated were burned and others were sprayed

with strong disinfectants by fire engines. Slowly the people are being

taught the rules of hygiene. The new and up-to-date medical school is

turning out very good doctors, and the school of nursing, most excellent

nurses, who are gentle, cheerful and dainty.

The modern hospitals were at first regarded with suspicion by the

natives, who went with the greatest reluctance for treatment. But to-day

the difficulty is to keep them out. A toothache is excuse enough for a

week's sojourn with free board. The native doctor often is a skilful

grafter, and has to be watched, otherwise he may pass in all his poor

relations, more to give them food and rest than for illness. A friend

was much annoyed while sick in a Manila hospital by some Filipina girls

in pink and lilac hospital gowns who were romping through the corridors.

Her nurse explained that they were passed in by the native doctor. One

of these physicians had every bed in his ward filled with patients who

were not ill but just enjoying themselves. Some of these doctors abuse

their authority in other ways. One of them, it was discovered, used to

go to San Lazaro, the hospital for contagious diseases, and take friends

who were detained there with leprosy to ride in public vehicles.

But aside from occasional abuses by natives, the work which has been

done for the public health in Manila is an example of what has been

accomplished elsewhere. In many of the provincial towns the introduction

of artesian wells has brought the death rate tumbling down to half its

former size. The work was carried on under disadvantages at first, for

it was the butt of much ridicule and abuse--the former from abroad, the

latter from the native press. Medical authorities in other parts of the

Far East laughed at our efforts to create better conditions for the

Filipinos, and told us that Orientals were incapable of sanitary

reforms. Before long, these same men were seeking to learn by what magic

we had accomplished what they had hardly dared even attempt, and were

sending delegates to Manila to study our methods.[17]

When Americans went there they found the Filipinos a race of

semi-invalids. Those who had managed to survive the various scourges

which were constantly sweeping the Islands were often infected with

hookworm or similar parasites which sapped their vitality. Many of them

were tubercular, and most of them were under-fed. The laziness which

made several Filipino workmen equal to one American was much of it due

to actual physical weakness. As a people, they are showing a marked

improvement in energy and activity. It was from changes of this sort

that the would-be benevolent anti-imperialists laboured to save them.

Of course, a great deal remains for us to do. Half the babies still die

before they are a year old. Only a beginning has been made in stamping

out tuberculosis. The people have not yet been educated out of that

fatalism which makes them prefer acceptance of evil to fighting it. But

as fast as they learn English they come under our educative influence

more and more.

Dr. Richard P. Strong, whom we knew when we were in the Islands and who

is now at the Harvard Medical School lecturing on tropical diseases, has

done many notable things in various parts of the world. We all know

about his wonderful work in the northern part of China, when the

pneumonic plague[18] was raging there a few years ago, and still later

his heroism among the typhus-stricken soldiers of Serbia. But we do not

all know that, among other things, he has discovered a cure for a

dreadful skin disease called yaws, which has been prevalent in the

Philippines. A doctor in Bontoc cured a case with a single injection of

salvarsan. The "case" was so delighted that he escaped from the

hospital before a second injection could be given him, rushed home to

his native village, and returned a day or so later with a dozen or more

of his neighbours who were suffering from the same trouble.

We were fortunate in traveling through the Islands with Dr. Heiser, who

had entire control of the health conditions there for many years--in

fact, until the Democratic administration. To him is largely due the

practical disappearance of smallpox from the Philippines. When the

Americans took over the country there were sometimes over fifty thousand

deaths a year from this one disease. The change is the direct result of

the ten million vaccinations which were performed by American officials.

An effort was made to entrust the vaccinating to Filipino officials, but

epidemics kept breaking out, and it was discovered that their work was

being done chiefly on paper.

In a recent letter a friend writes, "The other day one of our servants,

Crispin, was ill. I tried to get him to go to the hospital, but he

insisted he was not sick. I did not enjoy having him wait on the table,

for I thought he had measles. So I took him to the hospital myself and

told him to do what the doctor said. When I returned home a telephone

call summoned us to the hospital to be vaccinated at once, for Crispin

had the smallpox! They sent him to San Lazaro, where he had a good time,

and came home smiling, while we spent a miserable ten days waiting to

see what was going to happen to us. The native _saindados_ came promptly

to disinfect, but all they did was to put a bucket of something in the

center of the room. I soon saw that they were not going to be thorough,

so after ten minutes, just as they were going away, I called them back

and telephoned to the board of health, asking if no American sanitary

officer was coming. They said no, that Filipinos had been put in all the

white men's places. So I went to work myself, burning bedding, clothes

and hangings, and opening every trunk and closet. It was a revelation to

those two little natives, who thought they had done enough before."

Apparently the natives had the same aversion to the preventive method of

vaccination that some of our own countryfolk have, for Dr. Heiser writes

of the early work in the field: "Formerly ... the lives of the

vaccinators were seriously threatened by persons who refused to be

vaccinated. However, after much persuasion, a considerable number of the

inhabitants were vaccinated. Shortly afterwards smallpox was introduced

and the death rate among the unvaccinated became alarming; the people

themselves then noted that in spite of the fact that the vaccinated

persons frequently came in constant contact with the disease they did

not contract it, while the unvaccinated died in large numbers. This led

to urgent request being made for vaccination and the vaccinators who

previously found their lives in constant danger were welcomed."

But perhaps Dr. Heiser's greatest work has been done in freeing the

Islands of the worst-feared disease of all times and nations--leprosy. I

was walking along the street with him one day when he noticed the

swollen ear lobes of a man near by. It was one of the first symptoms of

leprosy. He stopped and spoke to the man and walked with him to the

hospital. The disease is not really so much to be feared as people

think, for it is seldom inherited and is not easily contagious.

We had planned to go to Culion, the beautiful island where thousands of

lepers have been taken to live or to die, and where they have every care

and comfort that science and unselfish devotion can give them.

Unfortunately for us, the Secretary of War was obliged to cut the trip

short, owing to official business in Manila, so we did not go there. We

heard so much about the place that this was a real disappointment.

The island is a day's sail from Manila. It is well forested, and has

hills and fertile valleys and a fine harbour. The more important

buildings of the town which the authorities knew would be needed by the

thousands of lepers then at large, were built from the foundations

entirely of concrete, for sanitary reasons and economy. Besides hundreds

of houses, one finds there to-day a theater, a town hall, a school,

dining halls, hospitals, stores, docks and warehouses. Water, lighting

and sewerage systems were also constructed, and a separate settlement

was built for the non-leprous employees.

Culion is really a leper's heaven. The people have perfect freedom, and

live normal lives, farming or fishing when they are able, carrying on

their own government, having their own police force, playing in the band

if they are musical, giving theatrical performances. They have social

distinctions, too--those better born take the place denied them in the

outer world because of their affliction. Here they are again Somebody.

When Americans took possession of the Islands there were six thousand

lepers at large. Two things evidently had to be done--first, prevent a

further spread of the disease; and second, cure those who already had

it, if this were possible.

Segregation of all known cases, as fast as accommodations could be

provided for them, was the immediate necessity. The colony at Culion was

opened in 1906 with five hundred patients. These went reluctantly to

their new abode, but once settled there, found it so much to their

liking that they wrote home enthusiastically, and after that the

authorities had no difficulty in persuading others to go. Indeed, the

plight of these poor outcasts had been pitiful enough. They were so

neglected that in one of the larger cities they had been known to go

into the markets and handle the produce, as a protest against their

treatment.

More than eight thousand have been transferred to Culion in all, and

to-day every known leper in the Philippines is there. New cases are

still occasionally found, but even the worst provinces are now

practically free from the historic scourge. It was that remarkable man,

Dr. Heiser, who not only organized and carried out this great

undertaking, but who himself saw to the smallest details. Many times he

is known to have carried the loathsome patients in his own arms.

The second problem, that of finding a cure, was not so easily solved.

But it has been found, and our nation had the credit of finding it--"the

first definite cure ever established," Dr. Heiser says. Two methods were

tried out very carefully, both with some success. The first was the

x-ray, which brought a marked improvement in most of the cases where it

was used, and an apparent cure in one case. The other method was the use

of chaulmoogra oil. This remedy had been known and used in the Far East

for some time, but it could rarely be given long enough to produce much

effect, because it was so unpleasant to swallow. Our doctors, however,

devised ways of injecting it, after mixing it with resorcin and

camphorated oil, so that there were no ill effects. Already several

cures have resulted.

Ten years ago there were forty thousand users of opium in the Islands.

In five years that number was reduced ninety-five per cent, and most of

those still addicted to the drug are Chinese. In the last few years,

moreover, cholera and bubonic plague have been practically wiped out,

but, of course, a few other tropical diseases still exist.

The Philippine Assembly recently conceived the brilliant idea of cutting

down expenses by halving the health appropriation. Dr. Heiser got

permission to speak before them, but instead of talking a few minutes,

as they expected, he spoke for three days. He told them that if they did

not give him the money he needed for the work, he would be forced to

economize by setting free the criminally insane, who, he promised,

should be given tags stating that they had been set free by order of the

Assembly. Also, he said, he would have to send back many of the lepers

to their friends. It proved to be the way to deal with the child-like

legislators, who in the end gave him what he wanted. Since that,

however, he has resigned, and his loss will be sadly felt. Indeed, there

has already been an outbreak of cholera since he left.

Regenerative work among the Filipinos has by no means been confined to

their bodies, however, for besides the educational advance that has been

made in their schools, which I have mentioned elsewhere, their prisons

have become sources of light instead of darkness. It is true that

penology in the Philippines has gone ahead with great strides.

In Bontoc, for instance, there is a prison which the commissioner in

charge of the province proudly called his "university." Its inmates are

men of the mountains. In the old days they would have been sent to

Bilibid prison in Manila, where few of them lived over two years. A

longer term meant practically a death sentence. This provincial jail is

situated in the high and healthy capital of the province, and is kept

clean and sanitary by the prisoners themselves. The men are well fed and

cared for, and they are taught trades, and made to work at them, too, so

that they learn industry along with technical skill.

Bilibid prison is a huge institution. It occupies several acres of land

in the heart of the city of Manila, its buildings radiating from a

common center, so that the guard in the high tower at the hub can

overlook anything that occurs. High walls surround the whole, patrolled

by watchful guards and mounted with gatling guns. It is an extraordinary

institution, inherited from Spanish rule, but, like everything else,

completely changed since then. The wives of men committed there were

considered widowed in those days, since so few survived a long term, and

were free to marry again. There has been some confusion of late years,

because most of the prisoners not only come out alive, but healthier

than when they went in. So prison "widows" who remarried found that

they had not counted on American methods. Bilibid, though in many ways

still rather experimental, is a great success.

There are extensive shops, and the prisoners are kept at work all the

time. Some make silverware, carriages, and furniture, while others do

the cooking and washing for the prison, make their clothes, and run a

laundry, not only for their own use, but for outside custom. Many are

employed in road building and on fortifications. Each man learns a trade

during his term of imprisonment, and so is better able to earn an honest

livelihood than when he entered. I have been told that Bilibid

"graduates" are in demand because of their honesty and industry. No

better recommendation for a prison could be desired.

Besides the shops, there is a school in which they are taught English.

The day we visited the prison we saw a teacher there who had been a

guest at the Governor's table, but as he had forged a check he was

paying the penalty. Most of the attendants in the up-to-date prison

hospital were Spaniards who were in for life sentences and who made very

good nurses. Part of this institution is devoted to consumptives, of

whom there are so many in the Islands, and they receive treatment

according to the best and latest methods.

[Illustration: PENAL COLONY ON THE ISLAND OF PALAWAN.]

We were much interested in the kitchens, and the manner in which food

was issued to several thousands in only six minutes. It was all

wonderfully systematized.

Late in the afternoon we went up into the central tower to watch the

"retreat." The prisoners' band, which had played for us as we entered

the prison gates, now took its place in the courtyard below and began to

play. Out of the workrooms trooped hundreds of convicts, who were

searched for hidden implements and then released to take their position

in military formation. The different groups marched to their quarters

and, standing outside, went through a series of exercises to the music

of the band. They seemed to enjoy this very much, and later, still to

the music, marched gaily off to get their rations.

A long-term prisoner with two years of good conduct to his credit is

given the privilege of going to the penal colony on the island of

Palawan. This island is one of the more southern ones, and is the place

where the Spanish sent their convicts in the old days. But the present

colony, which was established by Governor Forbes, is very different from

the former one. It was once a malarial jungle, but now is a healthy,

thoroughly up-to-date and successful reform institution.

Our visit to this place was one of the most interesting features of our

whole trip. Palawan itself is a curiosity, for it has an underground

river which has been explored for two miles beneath a mountain. But the

penal settlement is unique.

Leaving the steamer at Puerto Princessa, a quaint little town with

charming old Spanish gardens, we were met by a launch which took us up

the Iwahig River to the colony. This launch, which was gaily decked with

flags, was manned by convicts, the engineer himself being under a

sentence of nineteen years for murder. After an hour's sail up the

tropical river, we reached our destination. At the wharf we were greeted

by Mr. Lamb, superintendent of the colony, a Dominican priest, and a

crowd of prisoners who were enjoying a holiday.

We were driven to headquarters, near a pretty plaza with hedges and

flowers, surrounded by several two-story barracks built of bamboo and

nipa, where the prisoners live. As we walked about the plaza we visited

the hospital and the chapel, as well as the main office and the

superintendent's house.

The penal settlement is located on a reservation of two hundred and

seventy square miles. At the time of our visit there were in all eleven

hundred convicts--Filipinos for the most part, with a few Moros--and

only three white men to keep them in order. The prisoners had all come

from Bilibid prison.

In its management, the colony is somewhat like the George Junior

Republic for boys in America. The prisoners elect their own judges and

make some of their own laws, subject to the approval of the

superintendent. A majority verdict will convict, but the superintendent

has the right to veto any measures. Men who break the laws are locked

up, but can be released on bail.

The police force is composed of convicts, of course. The chief of police

when we were there was a murderer who had earned his pardon but

preferred to remain in the settlement. If a prisoner tries to escape he

is followed, and occasionally one is shot. The attempt is seldom made,

for it is difficult to get away, and the men are, moreover, quite

content to live there. Once thirty-five convicts did make a break for

liberty, but beyond the confines of the settlement they found themselves

in the midst of the savage Mangyans, by whom some were killed. Of the

rest, those who were not captured alive returned of their own free will

and were consigned again to Bilibid, which is considered a great

punishment.

For good behaviour, convicts may earn the right to have a house of their

own, with their family, one bull or carabao, and a little farm to

cultivate. There were then a hundred and eighty of these farmers, who

raised their crops on shares, the government receiving half. They had to

report to headquarters by telephone every other day and undergo a weekly

inspection as well. Every year they were obliged to plant cocoanuts,

which in a few years were expected to bring in large returns. Already

great quantities of yams were being shipped to Bilibid, and in a short

time enough cattle would be delivered there to supply, in part at least,

the meat demand of that prison. The colony suggests the possible

solution of the meat question for the American army in the Philippines,

as they were successfully raising calves from native cows by Indian

bulls.

Although the majority of the prisoners were engaged in farming, they

were often given the privilege of selecting the kind of work that they

preferred, and were divided accordingly, their hats and the signs on the

sleeves of their prison clothes showing what grade of convict they

belonged to and what work they did. They were paid in the money of the

colony, which was good nowhere else.

There were about forty women on the reservation. The men might marry if

they earned the privilege, or if already married, they might have their

wives and children come to live with them. There were six marriages the

year we were there. After receiving their pardons, they could remain on

the island if they wished, their work being credited toward the purchase

of their farms, but they had to continue under the laws of the colony.

At the main office we saw four prisoners who were about to be pardoned.

Governor Forbes very kindly asked me to hand them their pardons and ask

any questions I wished. One, a _bandolero_, or brigand, was small and

wizened. Another, who looked much like him, when asked what crime he had

committed, laughed and answered, "Bigamy!" A third, a stolid, thickset

fellow, had the best face of them all, but showed no emotion whatever

when I gave him his pardon. He also had been a brigand.

The convicts gave an exhibition fire drill for us at the barracks. The

natives are born climbers, and scramble down the poles with the agility

of monkeys. They also play baseball, of course. They are remarkably

musical and have a good band.

We had luncheon with Mr. and Mrs. Lamb in their pretty bamboo and nipa

cottage. Mrs. Lamb was a frail little woman, but strong in spirit, for

she did not seem at all afraid to live in this land of evil men. She

told us that the three murderers whom she had as servants were very

efficient, and were devoted to her little four-year-old son.

When our visit ended we were driven in a wagon to the river, accompanied

by a troop of prisoners who ran alongside shouting good-bys. At the

wharf they lined up while Mr. Lamb and the priest bowed us politely

aboard the launch.

These intrepid countrymen of ours, who are healing and uplifting a whole

people, seem to me to be true missionaries. The time may come when the

work which they are doing will set a standard for us stay-at-homes to

follow, that is, if we send the right kind of men out there. As the song

says,

"Ah, those were the days when the best men won,

The survival of those that were fit--

When the work to be done counted everything,

And politics nary a bit."

The Spell of the Hawaiian Islands and the Philippines · 第 5 / 10 章