[Illustration: Book Cover]
[Illustration: MAP TO ACCOMPANY "THE BOY TRAVELLERS IN THE RUSSIAN
EMPIRE."]
[Illustration]
THE BOY TRAVELLERS IN
THE RUSSIAN EMPIRE
ADVENTURES OF TWO YOUTHS IN A JOURNEY IN
EUROPEAN AND ASIATIC RUSSIA, WITH ACCOUNTS OF A TOUR ACROSS SIBERIA
VOYAGES ON THE AMOOR, VOLGA, AND OTHER RIVERS, A VISIT TO
CENTRAL ASIA, TRAVELS AMONG THE EXILES, AND A HISTORICAL
SKETCH OF THE EMPIRE FROM ITS FOUNDATION
TO THE PRESENT TIME
By THOMAS W. KNOX
AUTHOR OF "THE BOY TRAVELLERS IN THE FAR EAST" "THE YOUNG NIMRODS" ETC.
Illustrated
NEW YORK
HARPER & BROTHERS, FRANKLIN SQUARE
1887
By THOMAS W. KNOX.
* * * * *
THE BOY TRAVELLERS IN THE FAR EAST. Five Volumes. Copiously Illustrated.
8vo, Cloth, $3.00 each. The volumes sold separately. Each volume
complete in itself.
I. ADVENTURES OF TWO YOUTHS IN A JOURNEY TO JAPAN AND CHINA.
II. ADVENTURES OF TWO YOUTHS IN A JOURNEY TO SIAM AND JAVA. With
Descriptions or Cochin-China, Cambodia, Sumatra, and the Malay
Archipelago.
III. ADVENTURES OF TWO YOUTHS IN A JOURNEY TO CEYLON AND INDIA. With
Descriptions of Borneo, the Philippine Islands, and Burmah.
IV. ADVENTURES OF TWO YOUTHS IN A JOURNEY TO EGYPT AND PALESTINE.
V. ADVENTURES OF TWO YOUTHS IN A JOURNEY THROUGH AFRICA.
THE BOY TRAVELLERS IN SOUTH AMERICA. Adventures of Two Youths in a
Journey through Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Brazil, Paraguay, Argentine
Republic, and Chili; with Descriptions of Patagonia and Tierra del
Fuego, and Voyages upon the Amazon and La Plata Rivers. Copiously
Illustrated. 8vo, Cloth, $3.00.
THE BOY TRAVELLERS IN THE RUSSIAN EMPIRE. Adventures of Two Youths in a
Journey in European and Asiatic Russia, with Accounts of a Tour across
Siberia, Voyages on the Amoor, Volga, and other Rivers, a Visit to
Central Asia, Travels Among the Exiles, and a Historical Sketch of the
Empire from its Foundation to the Present Time. Copiously Illustrated.
8vo, Cloth, $3.00.
THE VOYAGE OF THE "VIVIAN" TO THE NORTH POLE AND BEYOND. Adventures of
Two Youths in the Open Polar Sea. Copiously Illustrated. 8vo, Cloth,
$2.50.
HUNTING ADVENTURES ON LAND AND SEA. Two Volumes. Copiously Illustrated.
8vo, Cloth, $2.50 each. The volumes sold separately. Each volume
complete in itself.
I. THE YOUNG NIMRODS IN NORTH AMERICA.
II. THE YOUNG NIMRODS AROUND THE WORLD.
* * * * *
PUBLISHED BY HARPER & BROTHERS, NEW YORK.
_Any of the above volumes sent by mail, postage prepaid, to any part of
the United States or Canada, on receipt of the price._
* * * * *
Copyright, 1886, by HARPER & BROTHERS.--_All rights reserved._
PREFACE.
In preparing this volume for the press, the author has followed very
closely the plan adopted for "The Boy Travellers in the Far East," and
also for his more recent work, "The Boy Travellers in South America."
Accompanied by their versatile and accomplished mentor, Dr. Bronson, our
young friends, Frank Bassett and Fred Bronson, journeyed from Vienna to
Warsaw and St. Petersburg, and after an interesting sojourn in the
latter city, proceeded to Moscow, the ancient capital of the Czars. From
Moscow they went to Nijni Novgorod, to attend the great fair for which
that city is famous, and thence descended the Volga to the Caspian Sea.
On their way down the great river they visited the principal towns and
cities along its banks, saw many strange people, and listened to
numerous tales and legends concerning the races which make up the
population of the great Muscovite Empire.
They visited the recently developed petroleum fields of the Caspian,
and, after crossing that inland sea, made a journey in Central Asia to
study certain phases of the "Eastern Question," and learn something
about the difficulties that have arisen between England and Russia.
Afterwards they travelled in the Caucasus, visited the Crimea, and bade
farewell to the Empire as they steamed away from Odessa. Concerning the
parts of Russia that they were unable to visit they gathered much
information, and altogether their notes, letters, and memoranda would
make a portly volume.
The author has been three times in the Russian Empire, and much of the
country described by "The Boy Travellers" was seen and traversed by him.
In his first journey he entered the Czar's dominions at Petropavlovsk in
Kamtchatka, ascended the Amoor River through its entire navigable
length, traversed Siberia from the Pacific Ocean to the Ural Mountains,
and continuing thence to Kazan, Moscow, St. Petersburg, and Warsaw, left
the protection of the Russian flag eleven thousand miles from where he
first went beneath it. His second visit included the Crimea and other
regions bordering the Black Sea, and his third was confined to Finland
and other Baltic provinces.
In addition to his personal observations in Russia, the author has drawn
upon the works of others. Many books of Russian travel and history have
been examined; some of them have been mentioned in the text of the
narrative, but it has not been practicable to refer to all. Indebtedness
is hereby acknowledged to the following books: "Free Russia," by
Hepworth Dixon; "Turkestan" and "Life of Peter the Great," by Hon.
Eugene Schuyler; "A Ride to Khiva," by Col. Fred Burnaby; "Campaigning
on the Oxus, and the Fall of Khiva," by J. A. Macgahan; "Life of Peter
the Great" and "Life of Genghis Khan," by Jacob Abbott; "The Siberian
Overland Route," by Alexander Michie; "Tent-life in Siberia," by George
Kennan; "Reindeer, Dogs, and Snow-shoes," by Richard J. Bush; "The
Invasion of the Crimea," by A. W. Kinglake; "Fred Markham in Russia," by
W. H. G. Kingston; "The Knout and the Russians," by G. De Lagny; "The
Russians at the Gates of Herat" and "The Region of the Eternal Fire," by
Charles Marvin; "Travels in the Regions of the Upper and Lower Amoor"
and "Oriental and Western Siberia," by Thomas W. Atkinson; and "The
Russians at Home," by Sutherland Edwards. The author has also drawn upon
several articles in _Harper's Magazine_, including his own series
describing his journey through Siberia.
The publishers have kindly permitted the use of illustrations from their
previous publications on the Russian Empire, in addition to those
specially prepared for this book. As a result of their courtesy, the
author has been able to present a "copiously illustrated" book, which is
always a delight to the youthful eye.
T.W.K.
CONTENTS
CHAPTER I. PAGE
DEPARTURE FROM VIENNA.--FRANK'S LETTER.--A FAREWELL
PROMENADE.--FROM VIENNA TO CRACOW.--THE GREAT SALT-MINE OF
WIELICZKA, AND WHAT WAS SEEN THERE.--CHURCHES AND PALACES
UNDERGROUND.--VOYAGE ON A SUBTERRANEAN LAKE. 15
CHAPTER II.
LEAVING CRACOW.--THE RUSSIAN FRONTIER.--THE POLICE AND THE
CUSTOM-HOUSE.--RUSSIAN CENSORSHIP OF BOOKS AND
PAPERS.--CATCHING A SMUGGLER.--FROM THE FRONTIER TO
WARSAW.--SIGHTS AND INCIDENTS IN THE CAPITAL OF POLAND.--FROM
WARSAW TO ST. PETERSBURG. 40
CHAPTER III.
IN THE STREETS OF ST. PETERSBURG.--ISVOSHCHIKS AND
DROSKIES.--COUNTING IN RUSSIAN.--PASSPORTS AND THEIR
USES.--ON THE NEVSKI PROSPECT.--VISITING THE CHURCH OF
KAZAN.--THE RUSSO-GREEK RELIGION.--UNFAVORABLE POSITION OF ST.
PETERSBURG.--DANGER OF DESTRUCTION.--GREAT INUNDATION OF
1824.--STATUE OF PETER THE GREAT.--ADMIRALTY SQUARE.--THE
SAILORS AND THE STATUE. 58
CHAPTER IV.
DINNER IN A RUSSIAN RESTAURANT.--CABBAGE SOUP, FISH PIES, AND
OTHER ODD DISHES.--THE "SAMOVAR" AND ITS USES.--RUSSIAN
TEA-DRINKERS.--"JOLTAI CHAI."--ALEXANDER'S COLUMN.--FORTRESS OF
STS. PETER AND PAUL.--IMPERIAL ASSASSINATIONS.--SKETCHES OF THE
PEOPLE.--RUSSIAN POLICE AND THEIR WAYS. 76
CHAPTER V.
NUMBER AND CHARACTER OF THE RUSSIAN PEOPLE.--PAN-SLAVIC UNION.--ST.
ISAAC'S CHURCH: ITS HISTORY AND DESCRIPTION.--THE WINTER PALACE AND
THE HERMITAGE.--SIGHTS IN THE PALACE.--CATHERINE'S RULES FOR HER
RECEPTIONS.--JOHN PAUL JONES IN RUSSIA.--THE CROWN JEWELS AND THE
ORLOFF DIAMOND.--ANECDOTES OF THE EMPEROR NICHOLAS.--RELICS OF PETER
THE GREAT.--FROM PALACE TO PRISON.--TOMBS OF RUSSIA'S EMPERORS.--A
MONUMENT AND AN ANECDOTE. 93
CHAPTER VI.
THE GOSTINNA DVOR: ITS EXTENT AND CHARACTER.--PECULIARITY OF
RUSSIAN SHOPPING.--CURIOUS CUSTOMS.--OLD-CLOTHES
MARKET.--HAY-MARKET.--PIGEONS IN RUSSIAN CITIES.--FROZEN
ANIMALS.--CHURCH AND MONASTERY OF ST. ALEXANDER NEVSKI.--A
PERSIAN TRAIN.--A COFFIN OF SOLID SILVER.--THE SUMMER
GARDEN.--SPEAKING TO THE EMPEROR.--KRILOFF AND HIS
FABLES.--VISIT TO A RUSSIAN THEATRE.--"A LIFE FOR THE CZAR."--A
RUSSIAN COMEDY. 110
CHAPTER VII.
NEWSPAPERS IN RUSSIA: THEIR NUMBER, CHARACTER, AND
INFLUENCE.--DIFFICULTIES OF EDITORIAL LIFE.--THE CENSORSHIP.--AN
EXCURSION TO PETERHOF, ORANIENBAUM, AND CRONSTADT.--SIGHTS IN
THE SUMMER PALACE.--CRONSTADT AND THE NAVAL STATION.--THE
RUSSIAN NAVY.--THE RUSSIAN ARMY: ITS COMPOSITION AND
NUMBERS.--THE COSSACKS.--ANECDOTES OF RUSSIAN MILITARY LIFE. 130
CHAPTER VIII.
VISITING THE UNIVERSITY OF ST. PETERSBURG.--EDUCATION IN
RUSSIA.--PRIMARY AND OTHER SCHOOLS.--THE SYSTEM OF
INSTRUCTION.--RECENT PROGRESS IN EDUCATIONAL MATTERS.--UNIVERSITIES
IN THE EMPIRE: THEIR NUMBER AND LOCATION.--RELIGIOUS
LIBERTY.--TREATMENT OF THE JEWS.--THE ISLANDS OF THE NEVA, AND
WHAT WAS SEEN THERE.--IN A "TRAKTIR."--BRIBERY AMONG RUSSIAN
OFFICIALS. 150
CHAPTER IX.
STUDIES OF ST. PETERSBURG.--MUJIKS.--"THE IMPERIAL NOSEGAY."--A
SHORT HISTORY OF RUSSIAN SERFDOM: ITS ORIGIN, GROWTH, AND
ABUSES.--EMANCIPATION OF THE SERFS.--PRESENT CONDITION OF THE
PEASANT CLASS.--SEEING THE EMPEROR.--HOW THE CZAR APPEARS IN
PUBLIC.--PUBLIC AND SECRET POLICE: THEIR EXTRAORDINARY
POWERS.--ANECDOTES OF POLICE SEVERITY.--RUSSIAN COURTS OF LAW. 172
CHAPTER X.
WINTER IN RUSSIA.--FASHIONABLE AND OTHER FURS.--SLEIGHS AND
SLEDGES.--NO SLEIGH-BELLS IN RUSSIAN CITIES.--OFFICIAL OPENING
OF THE NEVA.--RUSSIAN ICE-HILLS.--"BUTTER-WEEK."--KISSING AT
EASTER.--AN ACTIVE KISSING-TIME.--RUSSIAN STOVES AND
BATHS.--EFFECTS OF SEVERE COLD.--THE STORY OF THE FROZEN
NOSE.--HOW MEN ARE FROZEN TO DEATH. 193
CHAPTER XI.
LEAVING ST. PETERSBURG.--NOVGOROD THE GREAT: ITS HISTORY AND
TRADITIONS.--RURIK AND HIS SUCCESSORS.--BARBARITIES OF JOHN THE
TERRIBLE.--EARLY HISTORY OF RUSSIA.--AN IMPERIAL
BEAR-HUNT.--ORIGIN OF THE HOUSE OF ROMANOFF.--"A LIFE FOR THE
CZAR."--RAILWAYS IN RUSSIA FROM NOVGOROD TO MOSCOW. 211
CHAPTER XII
FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF MOSCOW.--UNDULATIONS OF THE
GROUND.--IRREGULARITY OF THE BUILDINGS, AND THE CAUSE
THEREOF.--NAPOLEON'S CAMPAIGN IN RUSSIA.--DISASTER AND
RETREAT.--THE BURNING OF MOSCOW.--THE KREMLIN: ITS CHURCHES,
TREASURES, AND HISTORICAL ASSOCIATIONS.--ANECDOTES OF RUSSIAN
LIFE.--THE CHURCH OF ST. BASIL. 230
CHAPTER XIII.
THE GREAT THEATRE OF MOSCOW.--OPERATIC PERFORMANCES.--THE KITAI
GOROD AND GOSTINNA DVOR.--ROMANOFF HOUSE AND THE ROMANOFF
FAMILY.--SKETCH OF THE RULERS OF RUSSIA.--ANECDOTES OF PETER THE
GREAT AND OTHERS.--CHURCH OF THE SAVIOUR.--MOSQUES AND
PAGODAS.--THE MUSEUM.--RIDING-SCHOOL.--SUHAREFF
TOWER.--TRAKTIRS.--OLD BELIEVERS.--THE SPARROW HILLS AND THE
SIMONOFF MONASTERY. 252
CHAPTER XIV.
A VISIT TO THE TROITSKA MONASTERY, AND WHAT WAS SEEN
THERE.--CURIOUS LEGENDS.--MONKS AT DINNER.--EUROPEAN
FAIRS.--THE GREAT FAIR AT NIJNI NOVGOROD.--SIGHTS AND
SCENES.--MININ'S TOMB AND TOWER.--DOWN THE VOLGA BY
STEAMBOAT.--STEAM NAVIGATION ON THE GREAT RIVER.--KAZAN, AND
WHAT WAS SEEN THERE.--THE ROUTE TO SIBERIA. 271
CHAPTER XV.
AVATCHA BAY, IN KAMTCHATKA.--ATTACK UPON PETROPAVLOVSK BY THE
ALLIED FLEET.--DOGS AND DOG-DRIVING.--RAPID TRAVELLING WITH A
DOG-TEAM.--POPULATION AND RESOURCES OF KAMTCHATKA.--REINDEER
AND THEIR USES.--THE AMOOR RIVER.--NATIVE TRIBES AND CURIOUS
CUSTOMS.--TIGERS IN SIBERIA.--NAVIGATION OF THE AMOOR.--OVERLAND
TRAVELLING IN SIBERIA.--RIDING IN A TARANTASSE.--A ROUGH
ROAD.--AN AMUSING MISTAKE.--FROM STRATENSK TO
NERTCHINSK.--GOLD-MINING IN SIBERIA. 289
CHAPTER XVI.
THE EXILES OF SIBERIA.--THE DECEMBRISTS AND THEIR
EXPERIENCE.--SOCIAL POSITION OF EXILES.--DIFFERENT CLASSES OF
EXILES AND THEIR SENTENCES.--CRIMINALS AND POLITICALS.--DEGREES
OF PUNISHMENT.--PERPETUAL COLONISTS.--HOW EXILES
TRAVEL.--LODGING-HOUSES AND PRISONS.--CONVOYS.--THRILLING STORY
OF AN ESCAPE FROM SIBERIA.--SECRET ROADS.--HOW PEASANTS TREAT
THE EXILES.--PRISONERS IN CHAINS. 313
CHAPTER XVII.
CHARACTER OF THE SIBERIAN POPULATION.--ABSENCE OF SERFDOM, AND
ITS EFFECT.--A RUSSIAN FÊTE.--AMUSEMENTS OF THE
PEASANTRY.--COURTSHIP AND MARRIAGE.--CURIOUS CUSTOMS.--WHIPPING
A WIFE.--OVERLAND THROUGH SIBERIA AGAIN.--CHETAH AND THE
BOURIATS.--IN A BOURIAT VILLAGE.--VERCKNE UDINSK.--SIBERIAN
ROBBERS.--TEA-TRAINS AND TEA-TRADE.--KIACHTA.--LODGED BY THE
POLICE.--TRADE BETWEEN RUSSIA AND CHINA. 334
CHAPTER XVIII.
GENERAL ASPECTS OF MAI-MAI-CHIN.--DINNER WITH A CHINESE
GOVERNOR.--A THEATRICAL PERFORMANCE.--LAKE BAIKAL: ITS
REMARKABLE FEATURES.--A WONDERFUL RIDE.--IRKUTSK: ITS
POPULATION, SIZE, AND PECULIARITIES.--SOCIAL
GAYETIES.--PREPARATIONS FOR A LONG SLEIGH-RIDE.--LIST OF
GARMENTS.--VARIETIES OF SLEIGHS.--FAREWELL TO
IRKUTSK.--SLEIGHING INCIDENTS.--FOOD ON THE ROAD.--SIBERIAN
MAILS.--ADVANTAGES OF WINTER TRAVELLING.--SLEIGHING ON BARE
GROUND.--A SNOWLESS REGION.--KRASNOYARSK. 354
CHAPTER XIX.
POSITION AND CHARACTER OF KRASNOYARSK.--A LESSON IN RUSSIAN
PRONUNCIATION.--MARKET SCENE.--SIBERIAN TREES.--THE
"OUKHABA."--A NEW SENSATION.--ROAD-FEVER AND ITS CAUSE.--AN
EXCITING ADVENTURE WITH WOLVES.--HOW WOLVES ARE HUNTED.--FROM
KRASNOYARSK TO TOMSK.--STEAM NAVIGATION IN
SIBERIA.--BARNAOOL.--MINES OF THE ALTAI.--TIGERS AND TIGER
STORIES.--THE "BOURAN."--ACROSS THE BARABA STEPPE.--TUMEN AND
EKATERINEBURG.--FROM EUROPE TO ASIA.--PERM, KAZAN, AND NIJNI
NOVGOROD.--END OF THE SLEIGH-RIDE. 377
CHAPTER XX.
DOWN THE VOLGA AGAIN.--RUSSIAN RECEPTION CEREMONY.--SIMBIRSK,
SAMARA, AND SARATOV.--GERMAN SETTLERS ON THE VOLGA.--DON
COSSACKS.--ASTRACHAN.--CURIOUS POPULATION.--VOYAGE ON THE CASPIAN
SEA.--THE CASPIAN PETROLEUM REGION.--TANK-STEAMERS.--INTERESTING
FACTS AND FIGURES OF THE NEW PETROLIA.--PRESENT PRODUCT OF THE
BAKU OIL-FIELDS.--EXCURSION TO BALAKHANI, AND VISIT TO THE
OIL-WELLS.--TEMPLES OF THE FIRE-WORSHIPPERS.--ANTIQUITY OF THE
CASPIAN PETROLEUM REGION.--MARCO POLO AND OTHER AUTHORITIES. 403
CHAPTER XXI.
A GLANCE AT CENTRAL ASIA.--RUSSIAN CONQUEST IN TURKESTAN.--WAR
AND DIPLOMACY AMONG THE KIRGHESE TRIBES.--RUSSIAN TAXES AND
THEIR COLLECTION.--TURCOMAN AND KIRGHESE RAIDS.--PRISONERS
SOLD INTO SLAVERY.--FORTIFIED VILLAGES AND TOWERS OF
REFUGE.--COMMERCE IN TURKESTAN.--JEALOUSY OF
FOREIGNERS.--TRAVELS OF VÁMBÉRY AND OTHERS.--VÁMBÉRY'S NARROW
ESCAPE.--TURCOMAN CHARACTER.--PAYMENTS FOR HUMAN HEADS.--MARRIAGE
CUSTOMS AMONG THE TURCOMANS.--EXTENT AND POPULATION OF CENTRAL
ASIA. 428
CHAPTER XXII.
FRANK AND FRED IN THE TURCOMAN COUNTRY.--THE TRANS-CASPIAN
RAILWAY.--SKOBELEFF'S CAMPAIGN, AND THE CAPTURE OF GEOK
TEPÉ.--ENGLISH JEALOUSY OF RUSSIAN ADVANCES.--RIVERS OF
CENTRAL ASIA.--THE OXUS AND JAXARTES.--AGRICULTURE BY
IRRIGATION.--KHIVA, SAMARCAND, AND BOKHARA.--A RIDE ON THE
TRANS-CASPIAN RAILWAY.--STATISTICS OF THE LINE.--KIZIL ARVAT,
ASKABAD, AND SARAKHS.--ROUTE TO HERAT AND INDIA.--TURCOMAN
DEVASTATION.--THE AFGHAN BOUNDARY QUESTION.--HOW MERV WAS
CAPTURED.--O'DONOVAN AND MACGAHAN: THEIR REMARKABLE
JOURNEYS.--RAILWAY ROUTE FROM ENGLAND TO INDIA.--RETURN TO BAKU. 451
CHAPTER XXIII.
BAKU TO TIFLIS.--THE CAPITAL OF THE CAUCASUS.--MOUNTAIN
TRAVELLING.--CROSSING THE RANGE.--PETROLEUM LOCOMOTIVES.--BATOUM
AND ITS IMPORTANCE.--TREBIZOND AND ERZEROOM.--SEBASTOPOL AND
THE CRIMEA.--SHORT HISTORY OF THE CRIMEAN WAR.--RUSSO-TURKISH
WAR OF 1877-78.--BATTLES IN THE CRIMEA AND SIEGE OF
SEBASTOPOL.--VISITING THE MALAKOFF AND REDAN FORTS.--VIEW OF
THE BATTLE-FIELDS.--CHARGE OF THE LIGHT BRIGADE AT
BALAKLAVA.--PRESENT CONDITION OF SEBASTOPOL.--ODESSA.--ARRIVAL
AT CONSTANTINOPLE.--FRANK'S DREAM.--THE END. 480
ILLUSTRATIONS.
Winter Scene in Russia _Frontispiece._
Fred's Reminder 15
St. Stephen's Cathedral, Vienna 16
View of the Palace of Cracow 17
Kosciusko, 1777 18
Kosciusko, 1817 19
Church of St Mary, Cracow 20
Polish Jew of high Rank 21
Polish Jews of the Middle Class 22
Our Guide in Costume 23
The Inspector-general 24
The Shaft 26
Descending the Shaft 27
Lamp-bearers 28
A Foot-path 29
An Underground Chapel 31
Men Cutting Salt in the Mine 32
Finishing the Columns 33
Subterranean Stables 34
A Mining Singer 35
"Glück-auf!" 36
Fête in the Grand Saloon of Entertainment 37
A Retired Director 38
Outer Wall of Cracow 40
Custom-house Formalities 41
Passport not Correct 42
In the Passport Bureau 43
Way Station on the Railway 45
Before Examination 46
After Examination 47
Scene on the Railway 48
Shutes for loading Coal on the Railway 49
Polish National Costumes 50
Peasant's Farm-house 51
Royal Palace at Warsaw 52
Shrine at a Gate-way 53
Lake in the Park 54
A Business Man of Warsaw 55
In St. Petersburg 56
Isvoshchiks in Winter 59
Drosky Drivers 60
Sledge of a high Official 63
Russian Workmen on their way Home 65
Russian Officer with Decorations 66
A Russian Priest 68
Convent of Solovetsk in the Frozen Sea 71
The Inundation of 1824 72
Statue of Peter the Great 73
Improvising a Statue 75
Tea-sellers in the Streets 77
Russian Restaurant at the Paris Exposition 78
An Out-door Tea-party 79
Russian Mujiks drinking Tea 81
Plant from which Yellow Tea is made 82
Column in Memory of Alexander I. 83
Peter the Great 85
Assassination of Peter III. 87
Paul I. 88
Russian and Finn 89
Dvornik and Postman 90
Lodgings at the Frontier 91
Ordered to leave Russia 92
Finland Peasants in Holiday Costume 94
Inhabitants of Southern Russia 95
St. Isaac's Church and Admiralty Square 96
Priest of the Church of St. Isaac 98
Catherine II. of Russia 99
Reception of John Paul Jones by the Empress Catherine 101
Russian Attack on the Turkish Galley 103
The Orloff Diamond 104
Nicholas I. 105
Peter III. 106
Circassian Arms as Trophies of Battle 107
Statue of Nicholas I. 108
Politeness in the Market-place 111
Importuning a Visitor 113
Frozen Animals in the Market 114
Market for old Clothes 116
Pigeons in a Russian City 118
Persian Horses presented by the Shah 119
Russian Peasant Girl 120
Russian Nurse-maid and Children 121
Some of Kriloff's Friends 122
Kriloff's Characters in Convention 123
The Fox as a Law-giver 126
One of Kriloff's Characters 127
Closing Scene in a Russian Play 128
Kriloff's Statue in the Summer Garden, St. Petersburg 129
Press-room of a Daily Newspaper 131
Interviewing an Editor 132
Prince Gortchakoff 133
Cabinet and Chair in the Palace 135
Illumination in a Russian Park 136
Tapestry and Fire Utensils at Peterhof 137
Door-way of Peter's House at Zaandam, Holland 138
A Student of Navigation 139
Steam Frigate near Cronstadt 140
Frigate under Sail and Steam 141
The _Dreadnought_--type of the _Peter the Great_ 142
The Russian Army--Regular Troops 143
Cossack Lancers and Russian Guard-house 144
The Russian Army--Irregular Troops 146
Grand-duke Michael 148
Iron-clad Steamer of the Baltic Fleet 149
Little Folks at School 151
Learning to Weave 152
Mineral Cabinet in the University 153
Parlor in a High-school for Women 155
Private Room of a wealthy Student 156
Lower Recitation-room 157
One of the Professors 158
Descending a Shaft 159
Galleries in a Mine 160
In the Library 161
A College Dormitory 162
Jewish Burial-ground 163
Clothes-dealer of Moscow 164
A Russian Troika 165
A Villa on the Island 166
A Russian Family 167
Culprit Street-sweepers 169
A Business Transaction 170
Peter the Great dressed for Battle 171
An Imperial Nosegay 173
Mujiks playing Cards 174
Peasant's House in Southern Russia 176
Peasants' Huts 178
Esthonian Peasants 179
Alexander II., the Liberator of the Serfs 181
Alexander III., Emperor of Russia 182
Battle between Russians and Circassians 184
Schamyl's Village in the Caucasus 185
The Empress Marie Féodorovna, Wife of Alexander III. 186
Russian Peasants at their Recreation 187
"Who is the Spy?" 189
Officers sitting in Judgment 191
Russian Grand-duke and Grand-duchess 192
Fur-bearing Seals 194
Sea-otter 195
The Beaver 195
The Ermine 196
The Raccoon 196
Russian Ice-hills 198
Soldiers off Duty--Butter-week 199
The Easter Kiss--agreeable 200
The Easter Kiss--in the Family 200
The Easter Kiss--difficult 201
The Easter Kiss--disagreeable 201
The Emperor's Easter Kiss 203
Peasant Girl in Winter Dress 204
A Bath in the East 206
Russian Street Scene in Winter 208
Lost in a Snow-storm 210
Workmen of Novgorod--Glazier, Painter, and Carpenters 212
An Old Norse Chief 213
View on the Steppe 216
Ivan the Terrible 217
Alexis Michailovitch, Father of Peter the Great 219
Michael Feodorovitch, First Czar of the Romanoff Family 220
Too near to be pleasant 221
Wolf attacking its Hunters 222
Old Picture in the Church 224
A Bishop of the Greek Church 225
Millennial Monument at Novgorod 227
Russian Boats 228
Portrait of Catherine II. in the Kremlin Collection 229
Street Scene in Moscow 231
Bivouacking in the Snow 232
Battle between French and Russians 233
Napoleon Retreating from Moscow 235
Alexander I. 236
View in the Kremlin 237
A Prisoner ordered to Execution 238
The Kremlin of Moscow 239
The Great Bell underground 240
Visiting the Great Bell 241
Empress Anne 242
The Empress Elizabeth 243
Coronation of Alexander III. 245
Peter II. 246
Bishop in his Robes 247
Great Gun at Moscow 249
The Cathedral at Moscow 250
Napoleon's Retreat from Moscow 251
Dress of Peasants--Scene from a Russian Opera 253
A Dressing-room of the Opera-house 254
Working the Ship in "L'Africaine" 255
Minin-Pojarsky Monument 257
Peter's Escape from Assassination 258
Peter the Great as Executioner 260
Catherine I. 261
Catherine II. 263
Grand-duke Nicholas Alexandrovitch 264
Skinned and Stuffed Man 266
Russian Beggars 267
Tartar Coffee-house in Southern Russia 269
Gallery in the Palace 270
Copy of Picture in the Monastery 272
Window in Church of the Trinity 273
Pity the Poor 274
Curious Agate at Troitska 275
Paper-knife from Troitska--St. Sergius and the Bear 276
Specimens of Ecclesiastical Painting on Glass 277
Russian Cooper's Shop and Dwelling 278
Nijni Novgorod during the Fair 280
Nijni Novgorod after the Fair 281
Tartar Merchant 282
Returning from the Fair 283
Launching a Russian Barge 285
Tartar Village near the Volga 286
Tartar Baker's Shop 287
A Siberian Village 289
Petropavlovsk, Kamtchatka.--Mount Avatcha in Background 290
A Herd of Reindeer 291
Dog teams and Reindeer 293
Light-house at Ghijigha 294
Ermine-trap 295
Interior of a Native House 295
The Reindeer 296
Fish-market at Nicolayevsk 297
Scenery on the Amoor 298
Gilyak Woman 299
Gilyak Man 299
Native Boat--Amoor River 300
Goldee Children 300
A Goldee Man and Woman 301
Inauguration of Genghis Khan 302
Junction of the Argoon and Shilka to form the Amoor 303
Scene in a Posting Station 304
A Tarantasse 306
Changing Horses at a Siberian Station 307
The Right of Way in Russia 309
Getting out of Difficulty 310
Valley of the Amoor above Ouk-se-me 312
Interior of an Exile's Hut 314
Exiles passing through a Village 315
A Town built by Exiles 317
Banished for Five Years 318
Banished for Three Years 318
Colonist's Village in Winter 319
Exiles leaving Moscow 321
Tagilsk, centre of Iron-mines of Siberia 322
A Siberian Valley 323
Two Exiled Friends Meeting 325
Escaping Exiles crossing a Stream 326
Ivanoff's Cave 327
Exiles among the Mountains 329
Siberian Peasants 331
Siberian Milk-women 332
Siberia in Summer 333
An Exile Peasant and his Friends 335
A Siberian Landscape 336
Girls Playing at Skakiet 337
A Village Festival 338
Russian Peasant Women 340
Making Calls after a Wedding 342
Ceremony after a Peasant's Wedding 343
The Mountains near Chetah 345
A Bouriat Village 346
A Wandering Priest 347
Crossing the Selenga 349
Finding Lodgings at Kiachta 351
Chinese Cash from Mai-mai-chin 352
Articles of Russian Manufacture 353
Scene in a Chinese Temple 354
Theatre at Mai-mai-chin 355
The Tiger 356
A Natural Arch on Lake Baikal 357
Caverns on Lake Baikal 358
Part of Irkutsk 359
View of the Principal Square in Irkutsk 360
Dressed for the Road 362
A Vashok 363
My Kibitka 364
Farewell to Irkutsk 365
Work of the Frost-king 367
Interior of a Russian Inn 369
Mail-driver and Guard 370
Distant View of a Siberian Village 371
Soldiers in Siberian Ferry-boats 373
View of Krasnoyarsk from the opposite Bank of the Yenisei 374
A Dangerous Ride 376
Beggar at a Siberian Station 378
Policeman at Krasnoyarsk 380
Hills near a Siberian River 381
Jumping an "Oukhaba" 382
Wolves Attacking a Buffalo 384
A Siberian Wolf 385
Summer and Winter in Russia 386
Village on a Russian Estate 388
A Slight Mishap 389
Summer View near Barnaool 391
Attacked by a Tiger 393
Bearcoots and Wolves 394
The Steppe in Summer 395
Specimen of Rock-crystal 397
Monument at the Boundary 397
Western Slope of the Ural Mountains 398
Descending a Hill-side Road 400
Baptizing through the Ice 401
End of the Sleigh-ride 402
Offering of the Villagers 404
Shoeing an Ox 406
Knife-whip 407
Armenian Bishop of Astrachan 408
A Tartar Khan 409
Tartar Postilions 410
Tartar Palaces in Southern Russia 411
Gypsy Family at Astrachan 412
An Oil-steamer on the Caspian Sea 413
Tanks at a Storage Depot 413
View in an Oil Region 414
Bits for Drilling Wells 415
A Spouting Well 416
Derrick and Tanks in the American Oil Region 417
An Oil Refinery with Tank Cars 419
Tartar Camel-cart at Baku 420
Ancient Mound near the Caspian Sea 421
Curious Rock Formations 422
Modern Fire-worshippers--Parsee Lady and Daughter 423
A Burning Tank 425
A Fall in Oil 426
A Rise in Oil 426
Camp Scene near the Altai Mountains 429
A Kalmuck Priest 430
Scene on the Edge of the Kirghese Steppe 431
Kirghese Group 432
Kirghese Chief and Family 433
Caravan in Russian Territory 434
Kirghese Raid on a Hostile Tribe 436
Lasgird--A Fortified Village in Northern Persia 438
Tower of Refuge 439
Framework of Turcoman Tent 440
The Tent Covered 440
Interior of Tent 441
Vámbéry's Reception by Turcoman Chief on the Caspian Shore 442
Receiving Payment for Human Heads--Khiva 443
Turcoman Trophy--A Russian Head 445
Kökbüri--A Race for a Bride 447
View of the Citadel of Khiva 448
An Ozbek Head 449
Map showing the Relations of Russia and England in the East 451
Sand-storm in the Desert 452
Turcoman Court of Justice 453
Kirghese Tomb 454
Charge of Russian Cavalry against Turcomans 455
Russian Army on the Turcoman Steppes 457
Winter Camp in Turcomania 459
Turcoman Irrigating Wheel 460
Scene at a Ferry on the Oxus 461
Map of the Russo-Afghan Region 462
Turcoman Woman Spinning 464
Village of Turcoman Tents 465
The New Russo-Afghan Frontier 466
Old Sarakhs 468
Sarik Turcoman Woman 469
Pul-i-Khisti and Ak Tapa 470
Penjdeh 471
Colonel Alikhanoff 472
The Great Highway of Central Asia 473
Turcoman Farm-yard 475
Map of Turkestan, showing Route of Trans-Caspian Railway 476
Crossing a River in Central Asia 478
A Native Traveller 479
Looking down on the Steppe 481
View of Tiflis 483
The Pass of Dariel, Caucasus 485
Governor-general of the Caucasus 486
Ruined Fortress in the Caucasus 487
Ruined Church near Batoum 488
Quarantine Harbor, Trebizond 489
View of Erzeroom 490
Turkish Authority 492
View of Sebastopol 495
Ruins of the Malakoff, Sebastopol 496
Russian Carpenters at Work 498
Cossacks and Chasseurs 499
British Soldiers in Camp 501
Alfred Tennyson 502
A Broken Tarantasse 503
The Bosporus 504
Map to accompany the Boy Travellers in the
Russian Empire _Front Cover._
Map showing the Russian Empire Routes as
Described by the Boy Travellers _Back Cover._
THE BOY TRAVELLERS
IN THE
RUSSIAN EMPIRE.
CHAPTER I.
DEPARTURE FROM VIENNA.--FRANK'S LETTER.--A FAREWELL PROMENADE.--FROM
VIENNA TO CRACOW.--THE GREAT SALT-MINE OF WIELICZKA, AND WHAT WAS SEEN
THERE.--CHURCHES AND PALACES UNDERGROUND.--VOYAGE ON A SUBTERRANEAN
LAKE.
"Here are the passports at last."
"Are you sure they are quite in order for our journey?"
"Yes, entirely so," was the reply; "the Secretary of Legation examined
them carefully, and said we should have no trouble at the frontier."
"Well, then," a cheery voice responded, "we have nothing more to do
until the departure of the train. Five minutes will complete the packing
of our baggage, and the hotel bill is all settled. I am going for a walk
through the Graben, and will be back in an hour."
So saying, our old acquaintance, Doctor Bronson, left his room in the
Grand Hotel in Vienna and disappeared down the stairway. He was
followed, a few minutes later, by his nephew, Fred Bronson, who had just
returned from a promenade, during which he had visited the American
Legation to obtain the passports which were the subject of the dialogue
just recorded.
At the door of the hotel he was joined by his cousin, Frank Bassett. The
latter proposed a farewell visit to the Church of St. Stephen, and also
a short stroll in the Graben, where he wished to make a trifling
purchase. Fred assented, and they started at once.
[Illustration: FRED'S REMINDER.]
They had not gone far before Fred perceived at a window the face of a
girl busily engaged in writing. He paused a moment, and then suggested
to Frank that he wished to return to the hotel in time to write a letter
to his sister before the closing of the mail. "I really believe," said
he, "that I should have neglected Mary this week if I had not been
reminded by that girl in the window and her occupation."
Frank laughed as he rejoined that he had never yet known his cousin to
forget his duty, and it would have been pretty sure to occur to him
that he owed his sister a letter before it was too late for writing it.
[Illustration: ST. STEPHEN'S CATHEDRAL, VIENNA.]
They made a hasty visit to the church, which is by far the finest
religious edifice in Vienna, and may be said to stand in the very heart
of the city. Fred had previously made a note of the fact that the church
is more than seven hundred years old, and has been rebuilt, altered, and
enlarged so many times that not much of the original structure remains.
On the first day of their stay in Vienna the youths had climbed to the
top of the building and ascended the spire, from which they had a
magnificent view of the city and the country which surrounds it. The
windings of the Danube are visible for many miles, and there are guides
ready at hand to point out the battle-fields of Wagram, Lobau, and
Essling. Our young friends had a good-natured discussion about the
height of the spire of St. Stephen's; Frank claimed that his guide-book
gave the distance from the ground to the top of the cross four hundred
and fifty-three feet, while Fred contended, on the authority of another
guide-book, that it was four hundred and sixty-five feet. Authorities
differ considerably as to the exact height of this famous spire, which
does not appear to have received a careful measurement for a good many
years.
From the church the youths went to the Graben, the famous street where
idlers love to congregate on pleasant afternoons, and then they returned
to the hotel. Fred devoted himself to the promised letter to his sister.
With his permission we will look over his shoulder as he writes, and
from the closing paragraph learn the present destination of our old
friends with whom we have travelled in other lands.[1]
[1] "The Boy Travellers in the Far East" (five volumes) and "The Boy
Travellers in South America" (one volume). Adventures of Two Youths in a
Journey to and through Japan, China, Siam, Java, Ceylon, India, Egypt,
Palestine, Central Africa, Peru, Bolivia, Chili, Brazil, and the
Argentine Republic. New York. Harper & Brothers.
"We have been here a week, and like Vienna very much, but are quite
willing to leave the city for the interesting tour we have planned. We
start this evening by the Northern Railway for a journey to and through
Russia; our first stopping-place will be at the nearest point on the
railway for reaching the famous salt-mines of Wieliczka. You must
pronounce it We-_litch_-ka, with the accent on the second syllable. I'll
write you from there; or, if I don't have time to do so at the mines,
will send you a letter from the first city where we stop for more than a
single day. We have just had our passports indorsed by the Russian
minister for Austria--a very necessary proceeding, as it is impossible
to get into Russia without these documents. Until I next write you,
good-by."
The travellers arrived at the great Northern Railway station of Vienna
in ample season to take their tickets and attend to the registration of
their baggage. The train carried them swiftly to Cracow--a city which
has had a prominent place in Polish annals. It was the scene of several
battles, and was for a long time the capital of the ancient kingdom of
Poland. Frank made the following memoranda in his note-book:
[Illustration: VIEW OF THE PALACE OF CRACOW.]
"Cracow is a city of about fifty thousand inhabitants, of whom nearly
one-third are Israelites. It stands on the left bank of the Vistula, on
a beautiful plain surrounded by hills which rise in the form of an
amphitheatre. In the old part of the city the streets are narrow and
dark, and cannot be praised for their cleanliness; but the new part,
which lies outside the ancient defences, is quite attractive. The palace
is on the bank of the river, and was once very pretty. The Austrians
have converted it into a military barrack, after stripping it of all its
ornaments, so that it is now hardly worth seeing. There are many fine
churches in Cracow, but we have only had time to visit one of them--the
cathedral.
"In the cathedral we saw the tombs of many of the men whose names are
famous in Polish history. Polish kings and queens almost by the dozen
are buried here, and there is a fine monument to the memory of St.
Stanislaus. His remains are preserved in a silver coffin, and are the
object of reverence on the part of those who still dream of the ultimate
liberation of Poland, and its restoration to its old place among the
kingdoms of the world.
[Illustration: KOSCIUSKO, 1777.]
"We drove around the principal streets of Cracow, and then out to the
tumulus erected to the memory of the Polish patriot, Kosciusko. You
remember the lines in our school reader,
"'Hope for a season bade the world farewell,
And freedom shrieked as Kosciusko fell.'
"We were particularly desirous to see this mound. It was made of earth
brought from all the patriotic battle-fields of Poland at an enormous
expense, which was largely borne by the people of Cracow. The monument
is altogether one hundred and fifty feet high, and is just inside the
line of fortifications which have been erected around the city. The
Austrians say these fortifications are intended to keep out the
Russians; but it is just as likely that they are intended to keep the
Poles from making one of the insurrections for which they have shown so
great an inclination during the past two or three centuries.
[Illustration: KOSCIUSKO, 1817.]
"As we contemplated the monument to the famous soldier of Poland, we
remembered his services during our Revolutionary war. Kosciusko entered
the American army in 1776 as an officer of engineers, and remained with
General Washington until the close of the war. He planned the fortified
camp near Saratoga, and also the works at West Point. When our
independence was achieved he returned to Poland, and after fighting for
several years in the cause of his country, he made a brief visit to
America, where he received much distinction. Then he returned again to
Europe, lived for a time in France, and afterwards in Switzerland, where
he died in 1817. The monument we have just visited does not cover his
grave, as he was buried with much ceremony in the Cathedral of Cracow."
"Why don't you say something about the Jewish quarter of Cracow," said
Fred, when Frank read what he had written, and which we have given
above.
"I'll leave that for you," was the reply. "You may write the description
while I make some sketches."
"I'm agreed," responded Fred. "Let's go over the ground together and
pick out what is the most interesting."
Away they went, leaving Doctor Bronson with a gentleman with whom he had
formed an acquaintance during their ride from the railway to the hotel.
The Doctor was not partial to a walk in the Jews' quarter, and said he
was willing to take his knowledge of it at second-hand.
[Illustration: CHURCH OF ST. MARY, CRACOW.]
On their way thither the youths stopped a few minutes to look at the
Church of St. Mary, which was built in 1276, and is regarded as a fine
specimen of Gothic architecture. It is at one side of the market-place,
and presents a picturesque appearance as the beholder stands in front of
it.
The Jews' quarter is on the opposite side of the river from the
principal part of the city, and is reached by a bridge over the Vistula.
At every step the youths were beset by beggars. They had taken a guide
from the hotel, under the stipulation that he should not permit the
beggars to annoy them, but they soon found it would be impossible to
secure immunity from attack without a cordon of at least a dozen guides.
Frank pronounced the beggars of Cracow the most forlorn he had ever
seen, and Fred thought they were more numerous in proportion to the
population than in any other city, with the possible exception of
Naples. Their ragged and starved condition indicated that their distress
was real, and more than once our young friends regretted having brought
themselves face to face with so much misery that they were powerless to
relieve.
[Illustration: POLISH JEW OF HIGH RANK.]
Frank remarked that there was a similarity of dress among the Jews of
Cracow, as they all wore long caftans, or robes, reaching nearly to the
heels. The wealthy Jews wear robes of silk, with fur caps or turbans,
while the poorer ones must content themselves with cheaper material,
according to their ability. The guide told the youths that the men of
rank would not surround their waists with girdles as did the humbler
Jews, and that sometimes the robes of the rich were lined with sable, at
a cost of many hundreds of dollars.
[Illustration: POLISH JEWS OF THE MIDDLE CLASS.]
Fred carefully noted the information obtained while Frank made the
sketches he had promised to produce. They are by no means unlike the
sketches that were made by another American traveller (Mr. J. Ross
Browne), who visited Cracow several years before the journey of our
friends.
"But there's one thing we can't sketch, and can't describe in writing,"
said Fred, "and that's the dirt in the streets of this Jews' quarter of
Cracow. If Doctor Bronson knew of it I don't wonder he declined to come
with us. No attempt is made to keep the place clean, and it seems a pity
that the authorities do not force the people into better ways. It's as
bad as any part of Canton or Peking, and that's saying a great deal. I
wonder they don't die of cholera, and leave the place without
inhabitants."
In spite of all sorts of oppression, the Jews of Cracow preserve their
distinctiveness, and there are no more devout religionists in the world
than this people. The greater part of the commerce of the city is in
their hands, and they are said to have a vast amount of wealth in their
possession. That they have a large share of business was noticed by
Fred, who said that from the moment they alighted from the train at the
railway-station they were pestered by peddlers, guides, money-changers,
runners for shops, beggars, and all sorts of importunate people from the
quarter of the city over the Vistula. An hour in the Jews' quarter
gratified their curiosity, and they returned to the hotel.
There is a line of railway to the salt-mines, but our friends preferred
to go in a carriage, as it would afford a better view of the country,
and enable them to arrange the time to suit themselves. The distance is
about nine miles, and the road is well kept, so that they reached the
mines in little more than an hour from the time of leaving the hotel.
The road is through an undulating country, which is prettily dotted with
farms, together with the summer residences of some of the wealthier
inhabitants of Cracow.
[Illustration: OUR GUIDE IN COSTUME.]
On reaching the mines they went immediately to the offices, where it was
necessary to obtain permission to descend into the earth. These offices
are in an old castle formerly belonging to one of the native princes,
but long ago turned into its present practical uses. Our friends were
accompanied by a commissioner from the hotel where they were lodged in
Cracow; he was a dignified individual, who claimed descent from one of
the noble families of Poland, and the solemnity of his visage was
increased by a huge pair of spectacles that spanned his nose. Frank
remarked that spectacles were in fashion at Wieliczka, as at least half
the officials connected with the management of the salt-mines were
ornamented with these aids to vision.
[Illustration: THE INSPECTOR-GENERAL.]
A spectacled clerk entered the names of the visitors in a register kept
for the purpose, and issued the tickets permitting them to enter the
mines. Armed with their tickets, they were conducted to a building close
to the entrance of one of the mines, and ushered into the presence of
the inspector-general of the works. He was also a wearer of spectacles,
and the rotundity of his figure indicated that the air and food of the
place had not injured him.
"The inspector-general received us politely--in fact everybody about the
place was polite enough for the most fastidious taste," said Frank in
his note-book--"and after a short conversation he called our attention
to the robes which had been worn by imperial and royal visitors to the
mines. The robes are richly embroidered, and every one bears a label
telling when and by whom it was worn. The inspector-general treated the
garments with almost as much reverence as he would have shown to the
personages named on the labels. We realized that it was proper to regard
them with respect, if we wished to have the good-will of this important
official, and therefore we appeared to be dumb with amazement as he went
through the list. When the examination was ended we were provided with
garments for the descent. Evidently we were not regarded with the same
awe as were the kings and emperors that had preceded us, as our robes
were of a very common sort. They were like dressing-gowns, and reached
nearly to our heels, and our heads were covered with small woollen caps.
I do not believe they were labelled with our names and kept in glass
cases after our departure.
"I made a sketch of our guide after he was arrayed in his underground
costume and ready to start. Fred sketched the inspector-general while
the latter was talking to the Doctor. The portrait isn't a bad one, but
I think he has exaggerated somewhat the rotund figure of the affable
official.
"From the office we went to the entrance of one of the shafts. It is in
a large building, which contains the hoisting apparatus, and is also
used as a storehouse. Sacks and barrels of salt were piled there
awaiting transportation to market, and in front of the building there
were half a dozen wagons receiving the loads which they were to take to
the railway-station. The hoisting apparatus is an enormous wheel turned
by horse-power; the horses walk around in a circle, as in the
old-fashioned cider-mill of the Northern States, or the primitive
cotton-gin of the South. Our guide said there were more than twenty of
these shafts, and there was also a stairway, cut in the solid earth and
salt, extending to the bottom of the mine. We had proposed to descend by
the stairway, but the commissioner strenuously advised against our doing
so. He said the way was dark and the steps were slippery, as they were
wet in many places from the water trickling through the earth. His
arguments appeared reasonable, and so we went by the shaft.
"The rope winds around a drum on the shaft supporting the wheel, and
then passes through a pulley directly over the place where we were to
descend. The rope is fully two inches in diameter, and was said to be
capable of bearing ten times the weight that can ever be placed upon it
in ordinary use. It is examined every morning, and at least once a week
it is tested with a load of at least four times that which it ordinarily
carries. When it shows any sign of wear it is renewed; and judging from
all we could see, the managers take every precaution against accidents.
"Smaller ropes attached to the main one have seats at the ends. There
are two clusters of these ropes, about twenty feet apart, the lower one
being intended for the guides and lamp-bearers, and the upper for
visitors and officials. Six of us were seated in the upper group. It
included our party of four and two subordinate officials, who
accompanied us on our journey and received fees on our return; but I
suppose they would scorn to be called guides.
"There is a heavy trap-door over the mouth of the shaft, and the rope
plays freely through it. The guides and lamp-bearers took their places
at the end of the rope; then the door was opened and they were lowered
down, and the door closed above them. This brought the upper cluster of
ropes in position for us to take our places, which we did under the
direction of the officials who accompanied us. When all was ready the
signal was given, the trap-door was opened once more, and we began our
downward journey into the earth.
[Illustration: THE SHAFT.]
"As the trap-door closed above us, I confess to a rather uncanny
feeling. Below us gleamed the lights in the hands of the lamp-bearers,
but above there was a darkness that seemed as though it might be felt,
or sliced off with a knife. Nobody spoke, and the attention of all
seemed to be directed to hanging on to the rope. Of course the uppermost
question in everybody's mind was, 'What if the rope should break?' It
doesn't take long to answer it; the individuals hanging in that cluster
below the gloomy trap-door would be of very little consequence in a
terrestrial way after the snapping of the rope.
[Illustration: DESCENDING THE SHAFT.]
"We compared notes afterwards, and found that our sensations were pretty
much alike. The general feeling was one of uncertainty, and each one
asked himself several times whether he was asleep or awake. Fred said a
part of the journey was like a nightmare, and the Doctor said he had the
same idea, especially after the noise of the machinery was lost in the
distance and everything was in utter silence. For the first few moments
we could hear the whirring of the wheel and the jar of the machinery;
but very soon these sounds disappeared, and we glided gently downward,
without the least sensation of being in motion. It seemed to me not that
we were descending, but that the walls of the shaft were rising around
us, while our position was stationary.
"Contrary to expectation, we found the air quite agreeable. The official
who accompanied us said it was peculiarly conducive to health; and many
of the employés of the mines had been at work there forty or fifty
years, and had never lost a day from illness. We had supposed it would
be damp and cold, but, on the contrary, found it dry and of an agreeable
temperature, which remains nearly the same all through the year. No
doubt the salt has much to do with this healthy condition. Occasionally
hydrogen gas collects in some of the shafts which are not properly
ventilated, and there have been explosions of fire-damp which destroyed
a good many lives. These accidents were the result of carelessness
either of the miners or their superintendents, and since their
occurrence a more rigid system of inspection has been established.
[Illustration: LAMP-BEARERS.]
"We stopped at the bottom of the shaft, which is about three hundred
feet deep; there we were released from our fastenings and allowed to use
our feet again. Then we were guided through a perfect labyrinth of
passages, up and down ladders, along narrow paths, into halls spacious
enough for the reception of an emperor, and again into little nooks
where men were occupied in excavating the salt. For several hours we
wandered there, losing all knowledge of the points of compass, and if we
had been left to ourselves our chances of emerging again into daylight
would have been utterly hopeless.
[Illustration: A FOOT-PATH.]
"And here let me give you a few figures about the salt-mines of
Wieliczka. I cannot promise that they are entirely accurate, but they
are drawn from the best sources within our reach. Some were obtained
from the under-officials of the mines who accompanied us, and others are
taken from the work of previous writers on this subject.
"The salt-mine may be fairly regarded as a city under the surface of the
earth, as it shelters about a thousand workmen, and contains chapels,
churches, railways, stables, and other appurtenances of a place where
men dwell. In fact it is a series of cities, one above the other, as
there are four tiers of excavations, the first being about two hundred
feet below the surface, and the lowest nearly two thousand. The
subterranean passages and halls are named after various kings and
emperors who have visited them, or who were famous at the time the
passages were opened, and altogether they cover an area of several
square miles. In a general way the salt-mines of Wieliczka may be said
to be nearly two miles square; but the ends of some of the passages are
more than two miles from the entrance of the nearest shaft. The entire
town of Wieliczka lies above the mines which give occupation to its
inhabitants.
[Illustration: AN UNDERGROUND CHAPEL.]
"There is probably more timber beneath the surface at Wieliczka than
above it, as the roofs of the numerous passages are supported by heavy
beams; and the same is the case with the smaller halls. In the larger
halls such support would be insufficient, and immense columns of salt
are left in position. In several instances these pillars of salt have
been replaced by columns of brick or stone, as they would be liable to
be melted away during any accidental flooding of the mine, and allow the
entire upper strata to tumble in. This has actually happened on one
occasion, when a part of the mine was flooded and serious damage
resulted.
"Our guide said the length of the passages, galleries, and halls was
nearly four hundred English miles, and the greatest depth reached was
two thousand four hundred feet. If we should visit all the galleries and
passages, and examine every object of interest in the mines, we should
be detained there at least three weeks. Not a single one of all the
workmen had been in every part of all the galleries of the mine, and he
doubted if there was any officer attached to the concern who would not
be liable to be lost if left to himself.
"Nobody knows when these mines were discovered; they were worked in the
eleventh century, when they belonged to the kingdom of Poland, and an
important revenue was derived from them. In the fourteenth century
Casimir the Great established elaborate regulations for working the
mines, and his regulations are the basis of those which are still in
force, in spite of numerous changes. In 1656 they were pledged to
Austria, but were redeemed by John Sobieski in 1683. When the first
partition of Poland took place, in 1772, they were handed over to
Austria, which has had possession of them ever since, with the exception
of the short period from 1809 to 1815.
"While the mines belonged to Poland the kings of that country obtained a
large revenue from them. For two or three centuries this revenue was
sufficiently large to serve for the endowment of convents and the
dowries of the members of the royal family. The Austrian Government has
obtained a considerable revenue from these mines, but owing to the
modern competition with salt from other sources, it does not equal the
profit of the Polish kings.
"Except when reduced by accidents or other causes, the annual production
of salt in these mines is about two hundred millions of pounds, or one
hundred thousand tons. The deposit is known to extend a long distance,
and the Government might, if it wished, increase the production to any
desired amount. But it does not consider it judicious to do so, and is
content to keep the figures about where they have been since the
beginning of the century. The salt supplies a considerable area of
country; a large amount, usually of the lower grades, is sent into
Russia, and the finer qualities are shipped to various parts of the
Austrian Empire.
"We asked if the workmen lived in the mines, as was currently reported,
and were told they did not. 'They would not be allowed to do so, even
if they wished it,' said our guide. 'By the rules of the direction the
men are divided into gangs, working eight hours each, and all are
required to go to the surface when not on duty. In ancient times it was
doubtless the case that men lived here with their families. At one time
the mines were worked by prisoners, who did not see daylight for months
together, but nothing of the kind has occurred for more than a century
at least.'
[Illustration: MEN CUTTING SALT IN THE MINE.]
"Several times in our walk we came upon little groups of men working in
the galleries; and certainly they were not to be envied. Sometimes they
were cutting with picks against perpendicular walls, and at others they
were lying flat on their backs, digging away at the roof not more than
a foot or two above their heads. The shaggy lamp-bearers--generally old
men unable to perform heavy work--stood close at hand, and the glare of
the light falling upon the flashing crystals of salt that flew in the
air, and covered the half-naked bodies of the perspiring workmen, made a
picture which I cannot adequately describe. I do not know that I ever
looked upon a spectacle more weird than this.
[Illustration: FINISHING THE COLUMNS.]
"We had expected to see the men in large gangs, but found that they were
nearly always divided into little groups. One would think they would
prefer any other kind of occupation than this, but our guide told us
that the laborers were perfectly free to leave at any time, just as
though they were in the employ of a private establishment. There were
plenty of men who would gladly fill their places, and frequently they
had applications for years in advance. As prices go in Austria, the pay
is very good, the men averaging from twenty to fifty cents a day. As far
as possible they are paid by the piece, and not by time--the same as in
the great majority of mines all over the world.
[Illustration: SUBTERRANEAN STABLES.]
"But the horses which draw the cars on the subterranean railways are
not regarded with the same care as the men. They never return to the
light of day after once being lowered into the mine. In a few weeks
after arriving there a cataract covers their eyes and the sight
disappears. By some this result is attributed to the perpetual darkness,
and by others to the effect of the salt. It is probably due to the
former, as the workmen do not appear to suffer in the same way. Whether
they would become blind if continually kept there is not known, and it
is to be hoped that no cruel overseer will endeavor to ascertain by a
practical trial.
"Every time we came upon a group of workmen they paused in their labors
and begged for money. We had provided ourselves with an abundance of
copper coins before descending into the mine, and it was well we did so,
as they generally became clamorous until obtaining what they wanted.
Fortunately they were satisfied with a small coin, and did not annoy us
after once being paid.
"I cannot begin to give the names of all the halls, galleries, and
passages we went through, and if I did, it would be tedious. We wandered
up and down, down and up, forward and backward, until it seemed as if
there was no end to the journey. And to think we might have been there
three weeks without once repeating our steps! I will mention at random
some of the most interesting of the things we saw. To tell the whole
story and give a full description of this most wonderful salt-mine in
the world would require a volume.
"The chamber of Michelwic was the first of the large halls that we
entered, and was reached after a long journey through winding passages
and along foot-paths that sometimes overhung places where it was
impossible for the eye, aided only by the light of the lamps, to
ascertain the depth of the openings below. In some of the dangerous
places there was a rail to prevent one from falling over; but this was
not always the case, and you may be sure we kept on the safe side and
close to the wall.
[Illustration: A MINING SINGER.]
"In the hall we were treated to a song by one of the mining over-seers,
an old soldier who had lost an arm in some way that was not explained to
us. He had an excellent voice that ought to have secured him a good
place in the chorus of an opera troupe. He sang a mining song in quite a
melodramatic style; and as he did so the notes echoed and re-echoed
through the hall till it seemed they would never cease. In the centre of
the hall is a chandelier cut from the solid salt, and on grand occasions
this chandelier is lighted and a band of music is stationed at one end
of the vast space. Its effect is said to be something beyond
description, and, judging from the effect of the overseer's voice, I can
well believe it.
"From this hall we went through a series of chambers and galleries named
after the royal and imperial families of Poland and Austria, passing
chapels, shrines, altars, and other things indicating the religious
character of the people employed in the mines or controlling them,
together with many niches containing statues of kings, saints, and
martyrs, all hewn from the solid salt. Some of the statues are rudely
made, but the most of them are well designed and executed. In some of
the chapels worshippers were kneeling before the altars, and it was
difficult to realize that we were hundreds of feet below the surface of
the earth.
"By-and-by our guide said we were coming to the Infernal Lake. The
lamp-bearers held their lights high in the air, and we could see the
reflection from a sheet of water, but how great might be its extent was
impossible to guess. As we approached the edge of the water a boat
emerged from the gloom and came towards us. It was a sort of rope ferry,
and we immediately thought of the ferry-boat which the ancients believed
was employed to carry departed spirits across the river Styx. Certainly
the darkness all around was Stygian, and the men on the boat might have
been Charon's attendants.
"We passed down a few steps, entered the boat, and were pulled away from
shore. In less than a minute nothing but the little circle of water
around us was visible; the sides of the cavern echoed our voices and
every other sound that came from our boat. In the middle of the lake we
paused to observe the effect of the sound caused by the waves created by
the rocking of the boat. It reverberated through the cavern and away
into the galleries, and seemed as though it would last forever. When
this sensation was exhausted we moved on again. Doctor Bronson asked the
guide how far it was to the other end of the lake, but before the answer
was spoken we had a fresh surprise.
[Illustration: "GLÜCK-AUF!"]
"There was a flash of light from a point high above us, and almost at
the same instant another, a little distance ahead. The latter assumed
the form of an arch in red fire, displaying the greeting 'GLÜCK-AUF!' or
'GOOD-LUCK!' though this is not the literal translation. We passed under
this arch of red fire, and as we did so the words 'Glück-auf!
Glück-auf!' were shouted from all around, and at the same time flashes
of fire burst from a dozen places above the lake. We shouted
'Glück-auf!' in reply, and then the voices from the mysterious recesses
seemed to be quadrupled in number and volume. The air was filled with
flashes of light, and was everywhere resonant with the words of the
miners' welcome.
"At the other end of the lake there was a considerable party waiting to
receive us, and of course there was a liberal distribution of coin to
everybody. I ought to have said at the outset that we arranged to pay
for the illumination of the lake and also of certain specified halls,
in addition to the compensation of the guides. The illuminations are
entirely proportioned to the amount that the visitors are willing to
give for them. It is a good plan to unite with other visitors, and then
the individual cost will not be heavy. Twenty dollars will pay for a
very good illumination, and fifty dollars will secure something worthy
of a prince, though not a first-class one.
[Illustration: FÊTE IN THE GRAND SALOON OF ENTERTAINMENT.]
"They showed us next through more winding passages, and came at length
to the Grand Saloon of Entertainment; which is of immense extent, and
has no less than six large chandeliers hanging from the roof. It is
lighted on the occasion of the visit of a king or emperor (of course he
has to pay the bill), and the effect is said to be wonderful. There is
an alcove at one end, with a throne of green and ruby-colored salt,
whereon the emperor is seated. A blaze of light all through the hall is
reflected from the myriad crystals of salt which form the roof and
sides; the floor is strewn with sparkling salt; the columns are
decorated with evergreens; festoons of flags abound through the place;
and a band of music plays the airs appropriate to the hall and the
guest.
[Illustration: A RETIRED DIRECTOR.]
"The workmen and their families assemble in their holiday dress, and
when the music begins the whole party indulges in the Polish national
dance. It is a strange spectacle, this scene of revelry five hundred
feet below the surface of the earth, and probably among the sights that
do not come often before the Imperial eyes. These spectacles must be
arranged to order, and for weeks before an Imperial or Royal visit a
great many hands are engaged in making the necessary preparations. From
all I heard of these festivals, I would willingly travel many hundred
miles to see one of them.
"By means of the illuminating materials that we brought with us, we were
able to get an approximate idea of the character of one of these gala
spectacles. After our last Bengal-light had been burned, we continued
our journey, descending to the third story by many devious ways, and
finally halting in a chamber whose roof was not less than a hundred feet
above us.
"'Do you know where you are?' said our guide.
"Of course we answered that we did not.
"'Well,' said he, 'you are directly beneath the lake which we sailed
over in a boat a little while ago. If it should break through we should
all be drowned, dead.'
"We shuddered to think what might be our fate if the lake should spring
a leak. It did break out at one time and flooded many of the galleries,
and for a long while work in all the lower part of the mine was
suspended. There have been several fires, some of them causing the loss
of many lives; but, on the whole, considering the long time the mine has
been opened and the extent of the works, the accidents have been few.
"The deepest excavation in the mine is nearly seven hundred feet below
the level of the sea. We did not go there, in fact we did not go below
the third story, as we had seen quite enough for our purposes, and
besides we had only a limited time to stay in the mine. As we came up
again to daylight, hoisted in the same sort of chairs as those by which
we descended, we made a final inspection of the salt which comes from
the mine.
"'There are three kinds of salt,' said the guide. 'One that is called
green salt contains five or six per cent. of clay, and has no
transparency; it is cut into blocks and sent to Russia exactly as it
comes from the mine. The second quality is called _spiza_, and is
crystalline and mixed with sand; and the third is in large masses,
perfectly transparent, having no earthy matter mingled with it. The salt
is found in compact tertiary clays that contain a good many fossils; the
finest salt is at the lowest levels, and the poorest at the higher
ones.'
"Well, here we are at the top of the shaft, tired and hungry, and
excited with the wonderful things we have seen. The visit to the
salt-mines of Wieliczka is something to be long remembered."
* * * * *
Since the visit herein described, the manner of working the salt-mines
of Wieliczka has undergone a decided change. Owing to the influx of a
stream the lower levels of the mines were flooded, and for some time
remained full of water. In order to free them it was necessary to
introduce powerful pumping machinery of the latest designs, and also to
replace the old hoisting apparatus with new. Horse-power was abandoned
in favor of steam, both for hoisting and pumping; new precautions were
taken against fire; all improved systems of mine-working were tested,
and those which proved useful were adopted; and to-day the mines of
Wieliczka may be considered, in every respect, the foremost salt-mines
in the world.