NIAGARA REVISITED, TWELVE YEARS AFTER THEIR WEDDING JOURNEY.

Life had not used them ill in this time, and the fairish treatment they

had received was not wholly unmerited. The twelve years past had made

them older, as the years must in passing. Basil was now forty-two, and

his moustache was well sprinkled with gray. Isabel was thirty-nine, and

the parting of her hair had thinned and retreated; but she managed to

give it an effect of youthful abundance by combing it low down upon her

forehead, and roughing it there with a wet brush. By gaslight she was

still very pretty; she believed that she looked more interesting, and she

thought Basil's gray moustache distinguished. He had grown stouter; he

filled his double-breasted frock coat compactly, and from time to time he

had the buttons set forward; his hands were rounded up on the backs, and

he no longer wore his old number of gloves by two sizes; no amount of

powder or manipulation from the young lady in the shop would induce them

to go on. But this did not matter much now, for he seldom wore gloves at

all. He was glad that the fashion suffered him to spare in that

direction, for he was obliged to look somewhat carefully after the

out-goes. The insurance business was not what it had been, and though

Basil had comfortably established himself in it, he had not made money.

He sometimes thought that he might have done quite as well if he had gone

into literature; but it was now too late. They had not a very large

family: they had a boy of eleven, who took after his father, and a girl

of nine, who took after the boy; but with the American feeling that their

children must have the best of everything, they made it an expensive

family, and they spent nearly all Basil earned.

The narrowness of their means, as well as their household cares, had kept

them from taking many long journeys. They passed their winters in Boston,

and their summers on the South Shore, cheaper than the North Shore, and

near enough for Basil to go up and down every day for business; but they

promised themselves that some day they would revisit certain points on

their wedding journey, and perhaps somewhere find their lost second-youth

on the track. It was not that they cared to be young, but they wished the

children to see them as they used to be when they thought themselves very

old; and one lovely afternoon in June they started for Niagara.

It had been very hot for several days, but that morning the east wind

came in, and crisped the air till it seemed to rustle like tinsel, and

the sky was as sincerely and solidly blue as if it had been chromoed.

They felt that they were really looking up into the roof of the world,

when they glanced at it; but when an old gentleman hastily kissed a young

woman, and commended her to the conductor as being one who was going all

the way to San Francisco alone, and then risked his life by stepping off

the moving train, the vastness of the great American fact began to affect

Isabel disagreeably. "Isn't it too big, Basil?" she pleaded, peering

timidly out of the little municipal consciousness in which she had been

so long housed.--In that seclusion she had suffered certain original

tendencies to increase upon her; her nerves were more sensitive and

electrical; her apprehensions had multiplied quite beyond the ratio of

the dangers that beset her; and Basil had counted upon a tonic effect of

the change the journey would make in their daily lives. She looked

ruefully out of the window at the familiar suburbs whisking out of sight,

and the continental immensity that advanced devouringly upon her. But

they had the best section in the very centre of the sleeping-car,--she

drew what consolation she could from the fact,--and the children's

premature demand for lunch helped her to forget her anxieties; they began

to be hungry as soon as the train started. She found that she had not put

up sandwiches enough; and when she told Basil that he would have to get

out somewhere and buy some cold chicken, he asked her what in the world

had become of that whole ham she had had boiled. It seemed to him, he

said, that there was enough of it to subsist them to Niagara and back;

and he went on as some men do, while Somerville vanished, and even Tufts

College, which assails the Bostonian vision from every point of the

compass, was shut out by the curve at the foot of the Belmont hills.

They had chosen the Hoosac Tunnel route to Niagara, because, as Basil

said, their experience of travel had never yet included a very long

tunnel, and it would be a signal fact by which the children would always

remember the journey, if nothing else remarkable happened to impress it

upon them. Indeed, they were so much concerned in it that they began to

ask when they should come to this tunnel, even before they began to ask

for lunch; and the long time before they reached it was not perceptibly

shortened by Tom's quarter-hourly consultations of his father's watch.

It scarcely seemed to Basil and Isabel that their fellow-passengers were

so interesting as their fellow passengers used to be in their former days

of travel. They were soberly dressed, and were all of a middle-aged

sobriety of deportment, from which nothing salient offered itself for

conjecture or speculation; and there was little within the car to take

their minds from the brilliant young world that flashed and sang by them

outside. The belated spring had ripened, with its frequent rains, into

the perfection of early summer; the grass was thicker and the foliage

denser than they had ever seen it before; and when they had run out into

the hills beyond Fitchburg, they saw the laurel in bloom. It was

everywhere in the woods, lurking like drifts among the underbrush, and

overflowing the tops, and stealing down the hollows, of the railroad

embankments; a snow of blossom flushed with a mist of pink. Its shy, wild

beauty ceased whenever the train stopped, but the orioles made up for its

absence with their singing in the village trees about the stations; and

though Fitchburg and Ayer's Junction and Athol are not names that invoke

historical or romantic associations, the hearts of Basil and Isabel began

to stir with the joy of travel before they had passed these points. At

the first Basil got out to buy the cold chicken which had been commanded,

and he recognized in the keeper of the railroad restaurant their former

conductor, who had been warned by the spirits never to travel without a

flower of some sort carried between his lips, and who had preserved his

own life and the lives of his passengers for many years by this simple

device. His presence lent the sponge cake and rhubarb pie and baked beans

a supernatural interest, and reconciled Basil to the toughness of the

athletic bird which the mystical ex-partner of fate had sold him; he

justly reflected that if he had heard the story of the restaurateur's

superstition in a foreign land, or another time, he would have found in

it a certain poetry. It was this willingness to find poetry in things

around them that kept his life and Isabel's fresh, and they taught their

children the secret of their elixir. To be sure, it was only a genre

poetry, but it was such as has always inspired English art and song; and

now the whole family enjoyed, as if it had been a passage from Goldsmith

or Wordsworth, the flying sentiment of the railroad side. There was a

simple interior at one place,--a small shanty, showing through the open

door a cook stove surmounted by the evening coffee-pot, with a lazy cat

outstretched upon the floor in the middle distance, and an old woman

standing just outside the threshold to see the train go by,--which had an

unrivaled value till they came to a superannuated car on a siding in the

woods, in which the railroad workmen boarded--some were lounging on the

platform and at the open windows, while others were "washing up" for

supper, and the whole scene was full of holiday ease and sylvan comradery

that went to the hearts of the sympathetic spectators. Basil had lately

been reading aloud the delightful history of Rudder Grange, and the

children, who had made their secret vows never to live in anything but an

old canal-boat when they grew up, owned that there were fascinating

possibilities in a worn-out railroad car.

The lovely Deerfield Valley began to open on either hand, with smooth

stretches of the quiet river, and breadths of grassy intervale and

tableland; the elms grouped themselves like the trees of a park; here and

there the nearer hills broke away, and revealed long, deep, chasmed

hollows, full of golden light and delicious shadow. There were people

rowing on the water; and every pretty town had some touch of

picturesqueness or pastoral charm to offer: at Greenfield, there were

children playing in the new-mown hay along the railroad embankment; at

Shelburne Falls, there was a game of cricket going on (among the English

operatives of the cutlery works, as Basil boldly asserted). They looked

down from their car-window on a young lady swinging in a hammock, in her

door-yard, and on an old gentleman hoeing his potatoes; a group of girls

waved their handkerchiefs to the passing train, and a boy paused in

weeding a garden-bed,--and probably denied that he had paused, later. In

the mean time the golden haze along the mountain side changed to a clear,

pearly lustre, and the quiet evening possessed the quiet landscape. They

confessed to each other that it was all as sweet and beautiful as it used

to be; and in fact they had seen palaces, in other days, which did not

give them the pleasure they found in a woodcutter's shanty, losing itself

among the shadows in a solitude of the hills. The tunnel, after this, was

a gross and material sensation; but they joined the children in trying to

hold and keep it, and Basil let the boy time it by his watch. "Now," said

Tom, when five minutes were gone, "we are under the very centre of the

mountain." But the tunnel was like all accomplished facts, all hopes

fulfilled, valueless to the soul, and scarcely appreciable to the sense;

and the children emerged at North Adams with but a mean opinion of that

great feat of engineering. Basil drew a pretty moral from their

experience. "If you rode upon a comet you would be disappointed. Take my

advice, and never ride upon a comet. I shouldn't object to your riding on

a little meteor,--you wouldn't expect much of that; but I warn you

against comets; they are as bad as tunnels."

The children thought this moral was a joke at their expense, and as they

were a little sleepy they permitted themselves the luxury of feeling

trifled with. But they woke, refreshed and encouraged, from slumbers that

had evidently been unbroken, though they both protested that they had not

slept a wink the whole night, and gave themselves up to wonder at the

interminable levels of Western New York over which the train was running.

The longing to come to an edge, somewhere, that the New England traveler

experiences on this plain, was inarticulate with the children; but it

breathed in the sigh with which Isabel welcomed even the architectural

inequalities of a city into which they drew in the early morning. This

city showed to their weary eyes a noble stretch of river, from the waters

of which lofty piles of buildings rose abruptly; and Isabel, being left

to guess where they were, could think of no other place so picturesque as

Rochester.

"Yes," said her husband; "it is our own Enchanted City. I wonder if that

unstinted hospitality is still dispensed by the good head waiter at the

hotel where we stopped, to bridal parties who have passed the ordeal of

the haughty hotel clerk. I wonder what has become of that hotel clerk.

Has he fallen, through pride, to some lower level, or has he bowed his

arrogant spirit to the demands of advancing civilization, and realized

that he is the servant, and not the master, of the public? I think I've

noticed, since his time, a growing kindness in hotel clerks; or perhaps I

have become of a more impressive presence; they certainly unbend to me a

little more. I should like to go up to our hotel, and try myself on our

old enemy, if he is still there. I can fancy how his shirt front has

expanded in these twelve years past; he has grown a little bald, after

the fashion of middle-aged hotel clerks, but he parts his hair very much

on one side, and brushes it squarely across his forehead to hide his

loss; the forefinger that he touches that little snapbell with, when he

doesn't look at you, must be very pudgy now. Come, let us get out and

breakfast at Rochester; they will give us broiled whitefish; and we can

show the children where Sam Patch jumped over Genesee Falls, and--"

"No, no, Basil," cried his wife. "It would be sacrilege! All that is

sacred to those dear young days of ours; and I wouldn't think of trying

to repeat it. Our own ghosts would rise up in that dining-room to

reproach us for our intrusion! Oh, perhaps we have done a wicked thing in

coming this journey! We ought to have left the past alone; we shall only

mar our memories of all these beautiful places. Do you suppose Buffalo

can be as poetical as it was then? Buffalo! The name doesn't invite the

Muse very much. Perhaps it never was very poetical! Oh, Basil, dear, I'm

afraid we have only come to find out that we were mistaken about

everything! Let's leave Rochester alone, at any rate!"

I'm not troubled! We won't disturb our dream of Rochester; but I don't

despair of Buffalo. I'm sure that Buffalo will be all that our fancy ever

painted it. I believe in Buffalo."

"Well, well," murmured Isabel, "I hope you're right;" and she put some

things together for leaving their car at Buffalo, while they were still

two hours away.

When they reached a place where the land mated its level with the level

of the lake, they ran into a wilderness of railroad cars, in a world

where life seemed to be operated solely by locomotives and their helpless

minions. The bellowing and bleating trains were arriving in every

direction, not only along the ground floor of the plain, but stately

stretches of trestle-work, which curved and extended across the plain,

carried them to and fro overhead. The travelers owned that this railroad

suburb had its own impressiveness, and they said that the trestle-work

was as noble in effect as the lines of aqueduct that stalk across the

Roman Campagna. Perhaps this was because they had not seen the Campagna

or its aqueducts for a great while; but they were so glad to find

themselves in the spirit of their former journey again that they were

amiable to everything. When the children first caught sight of the lake's

delicious blue, and cried out that it was lovelier than the sea, they

felt quite a local pride in their preference. It was what Isabel had said

twelve years before, on first beholding the lake.

But they did not really see the lake till they had taken the train for

Niagara Falls, after breakfasting in the depot, where the children, used

to the severe native or the patronizing Irish ministrations of Boston

restaurants and hotels, reveled for the first time in the affectionate

devotion of a black waiter. There was already a ridiculous abundance and

variety on the table; but this waiter brought them strawberries and again

strawberries, and repeated plates of griddle cakes with maple syrup; and

he hung over the back of first one chair and then another with an

unselfish joy in the appetites of the breakfasters which gave Basil

renewed hopes of his race. "Such rapture in serving argues a largeness of

nature which will be recognized hereafter," he said, feeling about in his

waistcoat pocket for a quarter. It seemed a pity to render the waiter's

zeal retroactively interested, but in view of the fact that he possibly

expected the quarter, there was nothing else to do; and by a mysterious

stroke of gratitude the waiter delivered them into the hands of a friend,

who took another quarter from them for carrying their bags and wraps to

the train. This second retainer approved their admiration of the

aesthetic forms and colors of the depot colonnade; and being asked if

that were the depot whose roof had fallen in some years before, proudly

replied that it was.

"There were a great many killed, weren't there?" asked Basil, with

sympathetic satisfaction in the disaster. The porter seemed humiliated;

he confessed the mortifying truth that the loss of life was small, but he

recovered a just self-respect in adding, "If the roof had fallen in five

minutes sooner, it would have killed about three hundred people."

Basil had promised the children a sight of the Rapids before they reached

the Falls, and they held him rigidly accountable from the moment they

entered the train, and began to run out of the city between the river and

the canal. He attempted a diversion with the canal boats, and tried to

bring forward the subject of Rudder Grange in that connection. They said

that the canal boats were splendid, but they were looking for the Rapids

now; and they declined to be interested in a window in one of the boats,

which Basil said was just like the window that the Rudder Granger and the

boarder had popped Pomona out of when they took her for a burglar.

"You spoil those children, Basil," said his wife, as they clambered over

him, and clamored for the Rapids.

"At present I'm giving them an object-lesson in patience and self-denial;

they are experiencing the fact that they can't have the Rapids till they

get to them, and probably they'll be disappointed in them when they

arrive."

In fact, they valued the Rapids very little more than the Hoosac Tunnel,

when they came in sight of them, at last; and Basil had some question in

his own mind whether the Rapids had not dwindled since his former visit.

He did not breathe this doubt to Isabel, however, and she arrived at the

Falls with unabated expectations. They were going to spend only half a

day there; and they turned into the station, away from the phalanx of

omnibuses, when they dismounted from their train. They seemed, as before,

to be the only passengers who had arrived, and they found an abundant

choice of carriages waiting in the street, outside the station. The

Niagara hackman may once have been a predatory and very rampant animal,

but public opinion, long expressed through the public prints, has reduced

him to silence and meekness. Apparently, he may not so much as beckon

with his whip to the arriving wayfarer; it is certain that he cannot

cross the pavement to the station door; and Basil, inviting one of them

to negotiation, was himself required by the attendant policeman to step

out to the curbstone, and complete his transaction there. It was an

impressive illustration of the power of a free press, but upon the whole

Basil found the effect melancholy; it had the saddening quality which

inheres in every sort of perfection. The hackman, reduced to entire

order, appealed to his compassion, and he had not the heart to beat him

down from his moderate first demand, as perhaps he ought to have done.

They drove directly to the cataract, and found themselves in the pretty

grove beside the American Fall, and in the air whose dampness was as

familiar as if they had breathed it all their childhood. It was full now

of the fragrance of some sort of wild blossom; and again they had that

old, entrancing sense of the mingled awfulness and loveliness of the

great spectacle. This sylvan perfume, the gayety of the sunshine, the

mildness of the breeze that stirred the leaves overhead, and the

bird-singing that made itself heard amid the roar of the rapids and the

solemn incessant plunge of the cataract, moved their hearts, and made

them children with the boy and girl, who stood rapt for a moment and then

broke into joyful wonder. They could sympathize with the ardor with which

Tom longed to tempt fate at the brink of the river, and over the tops of

the parapets which have been built along the edge of the precipice, and

they equally entered into the terror with which Bella screamed at his

suicidal zeal. They joined her in restraining him; they reduced him to a

beggarly account of half a dozen stones, flung into the Rapids at not

less than ten paces from the brink; and they would not let him toss the

smallest pebble over the parapet, though he laughed to scorn the notion

that anybody should be hurt by them below.

It seemed to them that the triviality of man in the surroundings of the

Falls had increased with the lapse of time. There were more booths and

bazaars, and more colored feather fans with whole birds spitted in the

centres; and there was an offensive array of blue and green and yellow

glasses on the shore, through which you were expected to look at the

Falls gratis. They missed the simple dignity of the blanching Indian

maids, who used to squat about on the grass, with their laps full of

moccasins and pin-cushions. But, as of old, the photographer came out of

his saloon, and invited them to pose for a family group; representing

that the light and the spray were singularly propitious, and that

everything in nature invited them to be taken. Basil put him off gently,

for the sake of the time when he had refused to be photographed in a

bridal group, and took refuge from him in the long low building from

which you descend to the foot of the cataract.

The grove beside the American Fall has been inclosed, and named Prospect

Park, by a company which exacts half a dollar for admittance, and then

makes you free of all its wonders and conveniences, for which you once

had to pay severally. This is well enough; but formerly you could refuse

to go down the inclined tramway, and now you cannot, without feeling that

you have failed to get your money's worth. It was in this illogical

spirit of economy that Basil invited his family to the descent; but

Isabel shook her head. "No, you go with the children," she said, "and I

will stay, here, till you get back;" her agonized countenance added, "and

pray for you;" and Basil took his children on either side of him, and

rumbled down the terrible descent with much of the excitement that

attends travel in an open horse-car. When he stepped out of the car he

felt that increase of courage which comes to every man after safely

passing through danger. He resolved to brave the mists and

slippery-stones at the foot of the Fall; and he would have plunged at

once into this fresh peril, if he had not been prevented by the Prospect

Park Company. This ingenious association has built a large tunnel-like

shed quite to the water's edge, so that you cannot view the cataract as

you once could, at a reasonable remoteness, but must emerge from the

building into a storm of spray. The roof of the tunnel is painted with a

lively effect in party-colored stripes, and is lettered "The Shadow of

the Rock," so that you take it at first to be an appeal to your aesthetic

sense; but the real object of the company is not apparent till you put

your head out into the tempest, when you agree with the nearest

guide--and one is always very near--that you had better have an oil-skin

dress, as Basil did. He told the guide that he did not wish to go under

the Fall, and the guide confidentially admitted that there was no fun in

that, any way; and in the mean time he equipped him and his children for

their foray into the mist. When they issued forth, under their friend's

leadership, Basil felt that, with his children clinging to each hand, he

looked like some sort of animal with its young, and, though not unsocial

by nature, he was glad to be among strangers for the time. They climbed

hither and thither over the rocks, and lifted their streaming faces for

the views which the guide pointed out; and in a rift of the spray they

really caught one glorious glimpse of the whole sweep of the Fall. The

next instant the spray swirled back, and they were glad to turn for a

sight of the rainbow, lying in a circle on the rocks as quietly and

naturally as if that had been the habit of rainbows ever since the flood.

This was all there was to be done, and they streamed back into the

tunnel, where they disrobed in the face of a menacing placard, which

announced that the hire of a guide and a dress for going under the Fall

was one dollar.

"Will they make you pay a dollar for each of us, papa?" asked Tom,

fearfully.

"Oh, pooh, no!" returned Basil; "we haven't been under the Fall." But he

sought out the proprietor with a trembling heart. The proprietor was a

man of severely logical mind; he said that the charge would be three

dollars, for they had had the use of the dresses and the guide just the

same as if they had gone under the Fall; and he refused to recognize

anything misleading in the dressing-room placard. In fine, he left Basil

without a leg to stand upon. It was not so much the three dollars as the

sense of having been swindled that vexed him; and he instantly resolved

not to share his annoyance with Isabel. Why, indeed, should he put that

burden upon her? If she were none the wiser, she would be none the

poorer; and he ought to be willing to deny himself her sympathy for the

sake of sparing her needless pain.

He met her at the top of the inclined tramway with a face of exemplary

unconsciousness, and he listened with her to the tale their coachman

told, as they sat in a pretty arbor looking out on the Rapids, of a

Frenchman and his wife. This Frenchman had returned, one morning, from a

stroll on Goat Island, and reported with much apparent concern that his

wife had fallen into the water, and been carried over the Fall. It was so

natural for a man to grieve for the loss of his wife, under the peculiar

circumstances, that every one condoled with the widower; but when a few

days later, her body was found, and the distracted husband refused to

come back from New York to her funeral, there was a general regret that

he had not been arrested. A flash of conviction illumed the whole fact to

Basil's guilty consciousness: this unhappy Frenchman had paid a dollar

for the use of an oil-skin suit at the foot of the Fall, and had been

ashamed to confess the swindle to his wife, till, in a moment of remorse

and madness, he shouted the fact into her ear, and then Basil looked at

the mother of his children, and registered a vow that if he got away from

Niagara without being forced to a similar excess he would confess his

guilt to Isabel at the very first act of spendthrift profusion she

committed. The guide pointed out the rock in the Rapids to which Avery

had clung for twenty-four hours before he was carried over the Falls, and

to the morbid fancy of the deceitful husband Isabel's bonnet ribbons

seemed to flutter from the pointed reef. He could endure the pretty arbor

no longer. "Come, children!" he cried, with a wild, unnatural gayety;

"let us go to Goat Island, and see the Bridge to the Three Sisters, that

your mother was afraid to walk back on after she had crossed it."

"For shame, Basil!" retorted Isabel. "You know it was you who were afraid

of that bridge."

The children, who knew the story by heart, laughed with their father at

the monstrous pretension; and his simulated hilarity only increased upon

paying a toll of two dollars at the Goat Island bridge.

"What extortion!" cried Isabel, with an indignation that secretly

unnerved him. He trembled upon the verge of confession; but he had

finally the moral force to resist. He suffered her to compute the cost of

their stay at Niagara without allowing those three dollars to enter into

her calculation; he even began to think what justificative extravagance

he could tempt her to. He suggested the purchase of local bric-a-brac; he

asked her if she would not like to dine at the International, for old

times' sake. But she answered, with disheartening virtue, that they must

not think of such a thing, after what they had spent already. Nothing,

perhaps, marked the confirmed husband in Basil more than these hidden

fears and reluctances.

In the mean time Isabel ignorantly abandoned herself to the charm of the

place, which she found unimpaired, in spite of the reported ravages of

improvement about Niagara. Goat Island was still the sylvan solitude of

twelve years ago, haunted by even fewer nymphs and dryads than of old.

The air was full of the perfume that scented it at Prospect Park; the

leaves showered them with shade and sun, as they drove along. "If it were

not for the children here," she said, "I should think that our first

drive on Goat Island had never ended."

She sighed a little, and Basil leaned forward and took her hand in his.

"It never has ended; it's the same drive; only we are younger now, and

enjoy it more." It always touched him when Isabel was sentimental about

the past, for the years had tended to make her rather more seriously

maternal towards him than towards the other children; and he recognized

that these fond reminiscences were the expression of the girlhood still

lurking deep within her heart.

She shook her head. "No, but I'm willing the children should be young in

our place. It's only fair they should have their turn."

She remained in the carriage, while Basil visited the various points of

view on Luna Island with the boy and girl. A boy is probably of

considerable interest to himself, and a man looks back at his own boyhood

with some pathos. But in his actuality a boy has very little to commend

him to the toleration of other human beings. Tom was very well, as boys

go; but now his contribution to the common enjoyment was to venture as

near as possible to all perilous edges; to throw stones into the water,

and to make as if to throw them over precipices on the people below; to

pepper his father with questions, and to collect cumbrous mementos of the

vegetable and mineral kingdoms. He kept the carriage waiting a good five

minutes, while he could cut his initials on a band-rail. "You can come

back and see 'em on your bridal tower," said the driver. Isabel gave a

little start, as if she had almost thought of something she was trying to

think of.

They occasionally met ladies driving, and sometimes they encountered a

couple making a tour of the island on foot. But none of these people were

young, and Basil reported that the Three Sisters were inhabited only by

persons of like maturity; even a group of people who were eating lunch to

the music of the shouting Rapids, on the outer edge of the last Sister,

were no younger, apparently.

Isabel did not get out of the carriage to verify his report; she

preferred to refute his story of her former panic on those islands by

remaining serenely seated while he visited them. She thus lost a superb

novelty which nature has lately added to the wonders of this Fall, in

that place at the edge of the great Horse Shoe where the rock has fallen

and left a peculiarly shaped chasm: through this the spray leaps up from

below, and flashes a hundred feet into the air, in rocket-like jets and

points, and then breaks and dissolves away in the pyrotechnic curves of a

perpetual Fourth of July. Basil said something like this in celebrating

the display, with the purpose of rendering her loss more poignant; but

she replied, with tranquil piety, that she would rather keep her Niagara

unchanged; and she declared that, as she understood him, there must be

something rather cheap and conscious in the new feature. She approved,

however, of the change that had removed that foolish little Terrapin

Tower from the brink on which it stood, and she confessed that she could

have enjoyed a little variety in the stories the driver told them of the

Indian burial-ground on the island: they were exactly the stories she and

Basil had heard twelve years before, and the ill-starred goats, from

which the island took its name, perished once more in his narrative.

Under the influence of his romances our travelers began to find the whole

scene hackneyed; and they were glad to part from him a little sooner than

they had bargained to do. They strolled about the anomalous village on

foot, and once more marveled at the paucity of travel and the enormity of

the local preparation. Surely the hotels are nowhere else in the world so

large! Could there ever have been visitors enough at Niagara to fill

them? They were built so big for some good reason, no doubt; but it is no

more apparent than why all these magnificent equipages are waiting about

the empty streets for the people who never come to hire them.

"It seems to me that I don't see so many strangers here as I used," Basil

had suggested to their driver.

"Oh, they haven't commenced coming yet," he replied, with hardy

cheerfulness, and pretended that they were plenty enough in July and

August.

They went to dine at the modest restaurant of a colored man, who

advertised a table d'hote dinner on a board at his door; and they put

their misgivings to him, which seemed to grieve him, and he contended

that Niagara was as prosperous and as much resorted to as ever. In fact,

they observed that their regret for the supposed decline of the Falls as

a summer resort was nowhere popular in the village, and they desisted in

their offers of sympathy, after their rebuff from the restaurateur.

Basil got his family away to the station after dinner, and left them

there, while he walked down the village street, for a closer inspection

of the hotels. At the door of the largest a pair of children sported in

the solitude, as fearlessly as the birds on Selkirk's island; looking

into the hotel, he saw a few porters and call-boys seated in statuesque

repose against the wall, while the clerk pined in dreamless inactivity

behind the register; some deserted ladies flitted through the door of the

parlor at the side. He recalled the evening of his former visit, when he

and Isabel had met the Ellisons in that parlor, and it seemed, in the

retrospect, a scene of the wildest gayety. He turned for consolation into

the barber's shop, where he found himself the only customer, and no busy

sound of "Next" greeted his ear. But the barber, like all the rest, said

that Niagara was not unusually empty; and he came out feeling bewildered

and defrauded. Surely the agent of the boats which descend the Rapids of

the St. Lawrence must be frank, if Basil went to him and pretended that

he was going to buy a ticket. But a glance at the agent's sign showed

Basil that the agent, with his brave jollity of manner and his impressive

"Good-morning," had passed away from the deceits of travel, and that he

was now inherited by his widow, who in turn was absent, and temporarily

represented by their son. The boy, in supplying Basil with an

advertisement of the line, made a specious show of haste, as if there

were a long queue of tourists waiting behind him to be served with

tickets. Perhaps there was, indeed, a spectral line there, but Basil was

the only tourist present in the flesh, and he shivered in his isolation,

and fled with the advertisement in his hand. Isabel met him at the door

of the station with a frightened face.

"Basil," she cried, "I have found out what the trouble is! Where are the

brides?"

He took her outstretched hands in his, and passing one of them through

his arm walked with her apart from the children, who were examining at

the news-man's booth the moccasins and the birchbark bric-a-brac of the

Irish aborigines, and the cups and vases of Niagara spar imported from

Devonshire.

"My dear," he said, "there are no brides; everybody was married twelve

years ago, and the brides are middle-aged mothers of families now, and

don't come to Niagara if they are wise."

"Yes," she desolately asserted, "that is so! Something has been hanging

over me ever since we came, and suddenly I realized that it was the

absence of the brides. But--but--down at the hotels--Didn't you see

anything bridal there? When the omnibuses arrived, was there no burst of

minstrelsy? Was there--"

She could not go on, but sank nervelessly into the nearest seat.

"Perhaps," said Basil, dreamily regarding the contest of Tom and Bella

for a newly-purchased paper of sour cherries, and helplessly forecasting

in his remoter mind the probable consequences, "there were both brides

and minstrelsy at the hotel, if I had only had the eyes to see and the

ears to hear. In this world, my dear, we are always of our own time, and

we live amid contemporary things. I daresay there were middle-aged people

at Niagara when we were here before, but we did not meet them, nor they

us. I daresay that the place is now swarming with bridal couples, and it

is because they are invisible and inaudible to us that it seems such a

howling wilderness. But the hotel clerks and the restaurateurs and the

hackmen know them, and that is the reason why they receive with surprise

and even offense our sympathy for their loneliness. Do you suppose,

Isabel, that if you were to lay your head on my shoulder, in a bridal

manner, it would do anything to bring us en rapport with that lost bridal

world again?"

Isabel caught away her hand. "Basil," she cried, "it would be disgusting!

I wouldn't do it for the world--not even for that world. I saw one

middle-aged couple on Goat Island, while you were down at the Cave of the

Winds, or somewhere, with the children. They were sitting on some steps,

he a step below her, and he seemed to want to put his head on her knee;

but I gazed at him sternly, and he didn't dare. We should look like them,

if we yielded to any outburst of affection. Don't you think we should

look like them?"

"I don't know," said Basil. "You are certainly a little wrinkled, my

dear."

"And you are very fat, Basil."

They glanced at each other with a flash of resentment, and then they both

laughed. "We couldn't look young if we quarreled a week," he said. "We

had better content ourselves with feeling young, as I hope we shall do if

we live to be ninety. It will be the loss of others if they don't see our

bloom upon us. Shall I get you a paper of cherries, Isabel? The children

seem to be enjoying them."

Isabel sprang upon her offspring with a cry of despair. "Oh, what shall I

do? Now we shall not have a wink of sleep with them to-night. Where is

that nux?" She hunted for the medicine in her bag, and the children

submitted; for they had eaten all the cherries, and they took their

medicine without a murmur. "I wonder at your letting them eat the sour

things, Basil," said their mother, when the children had run off to the

newsstand again.

"I wonder that you left me to see what they were doing," promptly

retorted their father.

"It was your nonsense about the brides," said Isabel; "and I think this

has been a lesson to us. Don't let them get anything else to eat,

dearest."

"They are safe; they have no more money. They are frugally confining

themselves to the admiration of the Japanese bows and arrows yonder. Why

have our Indians taken to making Japanese bows and arrows?"

Isabel despised the small pleasantry. "Then you saw nobody at the hotel?"

she asked.

"Not even the Ellisons," said Basil.

"Ah, yes," said Isabel; "that was where we met them. How long ago it

seems! And poor little Kitty! I wonder what has become of them? But I'm

glad they're not here. That's what makes you realize your age: meeting

the same people in the same place a great while after, and seeing how

old--they've grown. I don't think I could bear to see Kitty Ellison

again. I'm glad she didn't come to visit us in Boston, though, after

what happened, she couldn't, poor thing! I wonder if she's ever

regretted her breaking with him in the way she did. It's a very painful

thing to think of,--such an inconclusive conclusion; it always seemed as

if they ought to meet again, somewhere."

"I don't believe she ever wished it."

"A man can't tell what a woman wishes."

"Well, neither can a woman," returned Basil, lightly.

His wife remained serious. "It was a very fine point,--a very little

thing to reject a man for. I felt that when I first read her letter about

it."

Their Wedding Journey · 第 20 / 23 题