In the year 1509, Juan Diaz de Solis, sailing from Europe, discovered

the river Parana, and gave it his own name, Solis. In the year 1527,

Sebastian Cabot and Diego Garcia called it the Silver River, Rio de la

Plata, because they found among the Indians dwelling near it some plates

of silver, brought from Peru by the Portugueze, and robbed from them,

but suspected by the Spaniards to have been taken out of the bosom or

shores of this river. But after nearly three centuries had elapsed, no

silver had yet been discovered there. This river, which, though

destitute of silver, is perhaps the greatest in the world, retains to

this day the name of the Parana, which it received at its rise. It first

bears the name of La Plata at the river Las Conchas, six leagues distant

from Buenos-Ayres, where appears a remarkable rock, La Punta Gorda, a

little beyond which place, on the western shore, it absorbs the Uruguay,

which has already received the waters of the Rio Negro. By which means,

the Parana is augmented to such a degree, that at Las Conchas it is ten

leagues in width. Hence vessels that have sailed through the Paraguay

and Parana rest here as in port, and are here unloaded, and loaded

afresh before their return. For those small vessels which are sent from

the cities of Asumpcion and Corrientes and from the Guarany towns, could

not safely proceed farther.

The source of the river Parana has afforded as much matter of

controversy as the native city of Homer. The Spaniards who first went to

subdue Paraguay, after travelling for the space of full five hundred

leagues, either on the stream itself, or on its banks, are said never to

have been able to arrive at its source. The Brazilian Indians think the

Parana originates in an immense lake arising from the Peruvian

mountains, perhaps that called Lauricocha, near the Guanuco, about the

11th degree of latitude. Others, with more appearance of probability,

derive the river Amazon from the lake above-mentioned, though the

Indians insist upon it that the Amazon and the Parana both proceed from

the same source. But who would pay any attention to what the Indians

say? Many rivers flowing from the Peruvian mountains vary their course

every now and then, and are mingled one with another: now who, amid such

a labyrinth of streams, could so exactly distinguish the Parana from the

rest as to leave no room for doubt? It has been ascertained that this

river, in its various turnings and windings, travels more than eight

hundred leagues before it disgorges itself into the sea, by a huge

mouth. In this long journey it receives the waters of many rivers and

innumerable brooks. Who can enumerate this crowd of confluent streams? I

will mention the principal ones which occur to my memory, following its

course from lands situate between north and south.

On the western shore the Parana receives the waters of the Ỹgayrỹ, the

Ỹmuncina, the Monicỹ, the Amambaỹ, the Ygatimỹ, navigable to

middle-sized vessels, the Ỹgureỹ, the Yguairỹ, the Acaraỹ, a noble

river, as large as, perhaps larger than the Danube at Vienna. For on the

shore itself I measured it to be full six fathoms deep, and that not

during the time of inundation. It flows in a very wide channel, but so

quietly that you can hardly hear it. It is joined on the way by thirty

rivers of various sizes, and would certainly be navigable to large

ships, were it not impeded by rocks, which might perhaps be removed

could the Spaniards be brought to perceive the advantages of its

navigation. For the herb of Paraguay, which abounds in the woods near

its banks, might be transported along this river to the Parana, and

thence to the city of Buenos-Ayres, with a great saving both of time and

expense. But they are blind to these advantages. The Mondaỹ, which

springs from the Tarumensian woods, near the town of St. Joachim, and

afterwards other moderate-sized rivers, such as the Ỹhu, the Tarumaỹ,

the Yuguirỹ, the Guirahemguaỹ, the Cambay, &c. augment it to such a

degree that it becomes navigable to larger kinds of skiffs and boats—the

Caapivarỹ, the Aguapeỹ, which has a narrow but very deep channel, and is

dangerous to swimmers by reason of its water monsters, (the Yaguaro, a

kind of water tiger, often devours horses and mules as they are swimming

in this river)—the Atingỹ. All these, which I have mentioned, are of

lesser note; they are quite ignoble streams. But now listen attentively

whilst I give you some description of the place where the city

Corrientes is situated and which lies in lat. 27° 43´ and in long. 318°

57´. You must know that the great Paraguay, swelled by the waters of so

many rivers which it has received in its progress, here becomes the prey

of the greater Parana, and, at the same time, loses the name it has

hitherto borne. For that vast body of water formed by the junction of

both rivers is never called the Paraguay but always the Parana, because

the former brings a far greater quantity of water than the latter. But

though both rivers flow within the same banks and in the same channel,

the limpid Parana, scorning the muddy waters of the Paraguay, for some

time refuses to mix entirely with it. It is certain that, about three

miles apart, you may perceive the waters to be different both in colour

and taste. The Parana, which, a little before, flowed westerly,

following the Paraguay, changes its course, hastening towards the sea,

the mother of streams. However you may despise this conjecture, it seems

to me to possess some probability. In the country of St. Iago del

Estero, the rivers Dulce and Salado have frequently changed their

channel on this very account, and the same has been the case with regard

to some other rivers. In the city of St. Iago, St. Francisco Solano

built a dwelling-house, and a handsome church, for his companions, in

such a manner that the door of it did not look toward the market-place

of the city, but towards the plain. The brothers not approving of this

plan, the architect Solano, who was famous for the gift of prophecy,

bade them wait a little, saying, that what they now desired, in

ignorance of the future, would some day really happen. Some years after,

the river Dulce, which washes the city, changed its channel. The city

was forced to be changed also, which being done, the door of the church

fronted the market-place, as it does at this day. The event verified the

prediction, which the native Spaniards related to me when I was there.

But let us now return to the Parana.

The eastern shore of it is, in great measure, steep and stony; the

western shore, on the contrary, is low, muddy, and subject to floods.

All that part of this province which looks towards the west, beyond the

Parana, abounds in immense trees of various kinds, (fit for building

ships and waggons,) in fertile pastures and tracts of land, now sinking

into plains, now rising into gentle hills; yet you can scarce ever meet

with a situation fit for human habitations or fixed towns, either from

the superfluity or deficiency of water, or, which comes to the same

thing, the saltness and bitterness of it; for if you build a colony on

the shores of the Parana, it will be inundated with water on the next

flood, extending for two leagues beyond: if you remove it two or three

leagues from the shore, both the inhabitants and the beasts will perish

of thirst.

The rivers of lesser note, and more uncertain duration, which unite with

the Parana, after its junction with the Paraguay, are the rivers Negro,

Verde, Blanco, Rubeo, the Rio de Gomez, the Atopehenra-lauatè, or the

place of Capibaris, the Alcaray, the Cayman, the Embalzado, the Rio del

Rey, called by the Abipones Ychimaye, the Malabrigo, called by the

Abipones Neboquelatèl, the Eleya, the Saladillo, the Inespin, called by

the Abipones, Narahaguem, the Rio de Martin, the Salado, the Carcaranal,

the Tortugas, or river of tortoises, the Matanza, the Rio de los

Arrecifes, the Areco, the Lujan, the Rio de las Conchas. We have now

reached the port where vessels, coming from the east or west of

Paraguay, are in danger; for here the Parana, swelled by the accession

of so many rivers, and by that of the vast Uruguay, and the equally vast

Rio Negro, takes the appearance of a sea. But just as the Parana does

really show itself akin to the sea, it suddenly receives the name of La

Plata. What is the reason of this? Has it any silver in its bosom or on

its shores? Nothing is to be found there but mud. However, as Scipio

received the title of Africanus, from having devastated Africa, by the

same right may the Parana be called La Plata from the Peruvian silver

which it has often swallowed up, along with the ships that contained it.

Here the river is ten leagues wide, yet, not content with its own

magnitude, it joins with itself the other ignobler streams which flow

towards the west. The most noted of them is that by the Spaniards called

Riachuelo.

The more considerable rivers which join the Parana, on the eastern side,

beginning at the north, are the Añembỹ, the Parana-panè, the Guitaỹ, the

Iguazu, flowing from Brazil, by which the Mamalukes formerly came to

plunder the Guaranies. This river is of no inconsiderable size, and will

bear tolerably large vessels. Four leagues from the bank of the Parana

you meet with a cataract thirty ells high, from which the river falls

headlong, with a frightful noise, and such a foam proceeds from it that

the thick vapour, covering the place like a cloud, may be seen at four

leagues distance. As this cataract is utterly impassable, navigators

travel by land, for some time, and drag their boats along with their

hands. Three leagues from the cataract the river is only one league in

width. The Ybiraytỹ, the Yabebirỹ, which flows past the Guarany towns of

St. Ignatius-miri, and Nuestra Senhora de Loretto, is narrow but very

deep, the St. Ambrose, the Rio de los Astores and the Rio de Sta. Lucia.

Through these last-mentioned rivers we have often known those cruel

pirates the Payaguas come to plunder the estates of the Spaniards, and

slay the inhabitants. The Corrientes, a moderate-sized river, which

rises from the neighbouring lake Yberà, formerly called Lago de los

Caracaras, said to be about four miles in length, but of inconsiderable

and varying breadth. Many islands which it contains, are chosen at this

time by Indian runaways, as places of concealment; and we learn that, in

the last century, they were inhabited by the Caracara Indians who proved

very formidable, and almost invincible, to the Spaniards. However, at

the command of the Governour of Buenos-Ayres, a party of our Guaranies,

under Juan de Garay, happily attacked and conquered them, most of the

enemies being either slain or taken captive after an obstinate defence

of all the islands. These are the names of the other rivers which join

the Parana. The Guanguilarò, the Espinosa, the Alcaràz, the Hernand

Arias, the Pardia, the Rio de los Charruas and the Pacu. But all those

streams are of lesser importance. _Jam paulò major a canamus._

We have now arrived at the place where the Uruguay, a river of the first

magnitude, submits to the Parana. It rises in the mountains of Brazil,

between the twenty-fifth and twenty-sixth degrees of latitude, in the

Captaincy of St. Vicente, (according to Bourgainville,) and flows for

the space of full two hundred leagues; the rocks and cataracts with

which it is here and there impeded render navigation extremely

difficult, even to middle-sized skiffs. The largest of all the cataracts

blocks up the whole river at the Guarany town Yapeyù, and denies a

passage to skiffs coming from the port of Buenos-Ayres, so that the

sailors are obliged to carry them on their shoulders by land, in order

that they may proceed on their journey. It is proper in this place to

describe that kind of vessel in use amongst the Uruguayan Indians, and

which in the Spanish language is called _balsa_. Two very large boats,

sometimes seventy feet long, are firmly joined together with

cross-planks, and over them they strew reeds carefully matted by way of

a pavement. In the midst a little reed hut is erected, covered with

bulls' hides to defend it from the inclemencies of the weather. Oars,

not sails, are made use of, both in going up and down the stream, with

more security than despatch. There is, moreover, need of many rowers; in

all directions you meet with islands rich in palms, citrons, peaches and

various other trees, but which abound likewise in tigers, serpents and

other wild animals either dangerous, or fit for food. The immense rocks,

of which these cataracts are composed, being blasted, were indeed hurled

aloft into the air, but falling back again into the river, obstructed

the passage of even the smallest vessels. Thus remedies are often worse

than the disease itself.

The most considerable rivers which flow into the Uruguay on the western

shore are the Yapucà, the Piguirỹ, or Pepirỹ, the Guanumbacà, the

Acaranà, the Mborore, much celebrated for the victory I related to you

gained by the Guaranies over the Mamalukes, the Aguapeỹ, the Miriñaỹ,

flowing from the lake Ỹbera, the Vaccaretâ, the Timboỹ, the Gualeguaỹ,

the Rio de los Topes, the Yaguarỹ-guazù. All these rivers are joined in

their course by lesser streams. The Uruguay receives, on the east, the

waters of the Uruguaỹ-mir̂i, the Uruguaỹ-pîtà, or the little, and red

Uruguay, the Ỹribobà, the Rio St. Juan, the Ñucorà, the Yaguarapè, the

Yyuỹ, the Piritinỹ, the Ỹcabagua, the Mbutuy, the Toropỹ, after its

junction with the Ybicuỹ, the Guaraỹ, the Tebiguarỹ, the Lechiguana, the

Rio San Salvador. In this neighbourhood, the Rio Negro, famed for the

excellence and abundance of its waters, enters the Uruguay a little

before that river unites with the Parana, at La Punta Gorda. From such a

number of uniting streams you may arrive at an idea of the magnitude of

the Uruguay.

I must now discourse upon the Paraguay, from which the Parana receives

its chief augmentation. The origin of this river has occasioned as great

a dispute as that of the Parana. It is, however, now established beyond

all doubt, that those persons who have written that this river comes out

of the lake Xarayes are quite mistaken. This ancient and universal

error, with good leave of Bourgainville be it spoken, did not originate

in the Jesuit geographers, but was brought into Europe by the Spaniards

who first subdued Paraguay, and has in the present age been detected:

for it is certain that the Spaniards their successors have sailed on the

river Paraguay sixty leagues beyond that lake, which proves that we must

seek for the source of it in the more distant mountains situated towards

the north-east. Some have thought that it proceeds from the fabulous

lake Del Dorado. Bourgainville asserts that the Paraguay takes its rise

between the fifteenth and sixteenth degrees of north latitude, at almost

an equal distance from the North and South Seas. This opinion of the

Frenchman I willingly leave to be examined by the later Portugueze who

have dwelt there. However this may be, it has been clearly ascertained

that the Paraguay does not take its rise from the lake Xarayes, as such

a lake exists no where but in geographical charts; for that collection

of waters which is sometimes seen is not the parent of the river

Paraguay, but the offspring of it. This I boldly affirm on the authority

of Father Joseph Sanchez Labrador, a curious naturalist, who repeatedly

traversed both banks of the Paraguay, and by them arrived at the towns

of the Chiquitos. The Chiquito town dedicated to St. Xavier is situated

more towards the north than the rest, lying, as the same Sanchez

observed, in the 16th degree of latitude, and the 313th degree of

longitude. The town of Corazon de Jesus, situated in the 16th degree of

latitude, and the 319th degree of longitude, lies nearest the shores of

the river Paraguay, one hundred and ninety leagues distant from the city

of Asumpcion. Now let geographers hear what the oft commended Sanchez

declares to be his opinion respecting that imaginary lake Xarayes, and

the fabulous island De los Orejones.

"The Paraguay," says he, "collected into one channel, for some time

flows to the north, but presently separates into three branches, one of

which the Indians call Paraguay-mir̂i, that is little Paraguay, and the

other two Paraguay-guazù, or great Paraguay. These three branches of the

river are swelled by the usual floods, and, overflowing their banks,

inundate the plain country for the space of two hundred leagues.

European strangers have mistaken this frequent inundation, this

collection of waters, which generally lasts for some time, for a

permanent lake. In the midst of this imaginary lake they placed an

island called De los Orejones, to which they give thirty leagues of

length and ten of breadth, such being the degree of space occupied by

the Parana when it overflows. This was called the Island of Paradise by

the Spaniards who first conquered Paraguay, for there they rested for a

short time after their mighty labours. Neither the Portugueze, who

inhabit Cuyaba and Matto Grosso, neighbouring places, nor the more

recent Spaniards, nor the native Indians, were acquainted with any such

lake." These are the arguments made use of by Sanchez, who was better

acquainted with the controverted territories than any other person, and

consequently, in my opinion, most worthy of credit, to prove the

non-existence of the lake Xarayes and its island. Europeans travelling

in unknown America are frequently deceived; they mistake an assemblage

of waters caused by many months' rain for a river, or a constant lake,

whereas it only proceeds from an immense flood created by continual

showers, or by the melting of the snow on the Peruvian mountains.

The principal rivers, with the waters of which the Paraguay is enriched,

join it on the western shore: the Jaurù, which flows into the Paraguay

in 16° 29´ of south latitude, and 320° 10´ of longitude from the island

of Ferro; the Mandiỹ beneath the site of the feigned lake Xarayes; the

Rio Verde; the Yabebirỹ; the Pilcomayo, which falls into the Paraguay in

two branches some leagues apart; the Timbò, a very large river, formed

of two other lesser streams in the place called La Herradura, and

diametrically opposite to the river Tebiguarỹ, which is at the other

bank of the Paraguay. Here I founded the Abiponian colony of San Carlos.

The Rio Grande, or Vermejo, enters the Paraguay before its junction with

the Parana. On the eastern shore, beginning at the north, the Paraguay

is joined by the river De los Porrudos, which had before received the

waters of the Cuyaba, the name of a Portugueze town, and to which also

the rivers Cuchipò-guazù, Cuchipò-miri, and Manso had previously united

themselves. Lower down the river Taguarỹ, augmented by the waters of the

Camapuâ, enters the Paraguay by three mouths, which are formed by

intervening lands. Through these and other rivers the Portugueze sail in

boats to their colonies Cuyabà, and Matto Grosso, where they gather

little bits of gold out of the sand, with no inconsiderable profit. In

Camapuâ, an intermediate place, Andreas Alvarez, a Portugueze, took up

his residence with a number of negro slaves, and supplied the

Portugueze, who travelled backwards and forwards, with provisions,

waggons, and other necessaries from the produce of his land. The

following are the names of the rest of the rivers: the Mboteteỹ, in the

land of the Guarany Ytatinguas, for whom the Jesuits formerly founded

two colonies in this place; the Ygarỹpe, the Mboymboỹ, the Tareytỹ, the

Guaycuruỹ, on the banks of which the Guaycarus settled, and where they

remain to this day; the Corrientes, the Mbaerỹ, the Ỹpane-guazù,

formerly the Guarambarè, the Yeyuỹ, navigable to large boats, impeded by

many rocks, and augmented by many rivers, the most important of which is

the Caapivarỹ, which mingles its waters with the Yeyuỹ, about twenty

leagues before that river enters the Paraguay. The shores of the Yeyuỹ,

and of the Caapivarỹ, are surrounded by immense woods, nurseries of the

herb of Paraguay, a vast quantity of which is carried from the town

Curuguati to the city of Asumpcion, by the other Spanish inhabitants.

But let us proceed. The Paraguay receives into itself the following

streams: the Tobatỹ, the Caañiabê, and the Tebiguarỹ, navigable to

middle-sized vessels. By the accession of so many, and such considerable

tributary streams, the Paraguay is increased to such a size, that the

old Spaniards used to sail through it to the city of Asumpcion, and even

more distant places, in the same ships which had borne them on the

Ocean, from the port of Cadiz. At this time no one dares attempt that,

for fear of being wrecked, for this river swells to such a breadth, that

you often cannot see either bank, as on the sea. It is intersected by

many islands, and abounds in rocks, shallows, and quicksands. It is

dangerous to sail on it without a pilot, called Pratico, well acquainted

with the river, who must be hired to go before the ship in a boat, and

sound the depth every now and then. At night you must rest in a safe

situation, and anxiously seek port on an approaching storm. But alas!

spite of every art that can be exerted, vessels often stick in shoals,

and quicksands, out of which they must be taken on the shoulders of the

sailors, or, with the assistance of a skiff, in great part unloaded. For

many persons, through greediness of gain, load their vessels with so

much merchandise, that you can scarce see two palms of wood above the

water, in consequence of which, if the wind blows violently, they are

swallowed up in the waves. This river is likewise rendered dangerous by

two whirlpools—places where, even when there is no wind, the water

twists into circles, and forms, in the centre, a whirlpool, which sucks

up whatever comes near it; but it may be passed without danger, unless

the sailors are extremely stupid. There is more danger in various other

places, where the river hurries along like lightning, and dashes vessels

upon rocks or shallows. In sailing against the stream, oars alone will

not suffice; sails must be made use of likewise. From these things you

may judge that the navigation of this river can never be effected

without danger, and reasonable alarm.

I must now speak of the cataract of this river, which is called by the

Spaniards El Salto Grande, and occurs about the 24th deg. of lat. and

325th of long., near the ruined city of Guayra. I myself never saw it: I

shall, therefore, describe this prodigy of nature in the words of Father

Diego Ranconier, a Fleming, who gave a most accurate description of it

in the name of the Jesuit Father Nicolas Duran, then Provincial of

Paraguay, in his annals of Paraguay, dated Rome, in the year 1626.

"Amongst all the things," says he, "capable of exciting admiration in

these provinces, this cataract easily obtains the first place; and

indeed I know not whether the whole terraqueous globe contains any thing

more wonderful. The river precipitates itself, with the utmost violence,

down an immensely high rock, twelve leagues in descent, and dashes, in

its downward course, against huge rocks of horrible form, from which the

waters, being reverberated, leap up to a great height, and as the

channel is in many places intersected, on account of the exceeding

roughness of the rocks, the waters are separated into various paths, and

then meet together again, causing stupendous whirlpools. In other places

also, the waters, leaping down, rush into the rocks themselves, and are

concealed from the view: then, after having remained hidden for some

time, again break forth, as if they had sprung from various fountains,

and swallow up vast masses of rocks. Lastly, so great is the violence of

the waters in the descent of the stream, that, during the whole course

of twelve leagues, they are covered by a perpetual foam, which,

reflecting the rays of the sun, dazzles the eyes of beholders with its

brightness. Also the sound of the water, falling down and dashing

against the rocks, may easily be heard at four leagues distance. This

rough descent being ended, the water seems inclined to rest on the

bottom, in smoother ground. For it often stagnates there by day, but

almost every hour a loud noise arises, from some hidden cause, and the

water leaps up to the height of many cubits. Fish of immense size are

seen there: and Father Antonio Ruiz de Montoya, then missionary of the

Guarany nation, in Guayra, declares that he saw a fish, as big as an ox,

swimming on the river, with only half his body above water. Nor is this

incredible; for when I visited the Guarany Reductions," (he means the

new colonies of Indians,) "they wrote me word that an Indian had been

swallowed by a river-fish of this kind, and afterwards ejected whole on

to the bank."

Between the Guarany town De la Candelaria, and the city Corrientes, the

Parana throws in the way of navigators another smaller rapid, full of

projecting rocks. I have no doubt that in the long course of the Parana,

there lurks many a hidden whirlpool; the credibility of which opinion I

will endeavour to prove to you, by relating a recent event. In the year

1756, whilst I was residing in the town of Loretto, a number of

Guaranies began to sail in boats up the river Parana, to gather the herb

of Paraguay in distant woods. When they had got a very few leagues

beyond the town of Cuerpo de Cristo, all perished, except one man, the

announcer of this unfortunate catastrophe. "About noon," said he, "they

briskly rowed the boat to the sound of pipes and drums. The sky was

serene, the air tranquil, the river placid, when suddenly the prow of

the ship was lifted straight upright, like a pillar, and the poop

proportionably lowered; but it fell back into its former situation, and

put an end to the sudden terror excited, but not to the danger. For soon

after the prow was again elevated by some hidden impulse, and the ship

and all the sailors were swallowed up in a moment." One alone escaped,

as I told you, by swimming, and announced the sad fate of his

companions. We know the fact, but are ignorant of the cause. Almost

every body agreed with me in attributing it to a hidden whirlpool, which

had remained till then undiscovered in this frequented river. Often in

vast rivers, and still oftener in the wide ocean, places destructive to

ships are discovered, which had, for many ages, escaped the observation

of skilful navigators.

The Parana abounds in innumerable islands of various sizes. It often

demolishes the old, and creates new ones. For the annual floods heap up

the sands, which are liberally supplied with seeds of willows wafted

thither by the wind; these soon take root and quickly grow up with the

aid of abundant moisture. Wait a little, and you will see the island

covered with willows, other trees, and turf, and haunted by birds, wild

beasts, and amphibious animals. Other islands are gradually destroyed by

the violence of the waves; we have seen some of them sunk under water,

others rocked like a ship by the wind and the waves, and borne up and

down till they are dissolved and swallowed up. The most considerable

islands are Martin Garzia, Las dos Hermanas, the Island of St. Gabriel,

La Isla de Flores, and La Isla de Lobos. The Parana overflows twice

every year. The greater flood generally commences in the summer month

December, continues during the whole of January, and sometimes does not

subside till the end of February. The lesser begins about the middle of

June, and lasts thirty days. In both floods all the islands, some of

which are three leagues in extent, are so entirely covered that the tops

of the very highest trees are alone visible.

Tigers and stags like those of our country, which are very numerous,

come out upon the shores. When the river is not contained within its

very high banks, it spreads to the space of many leagues. I remember

sailing near the town of St. Ferdinand, in a ship, amid palm trees, on

the plain which, at other times, I used to gallop over on horseback. The

waters of the Parana are muddy; but if suffered to settle in a pitcher,

not unwholesome for the natives of the town; though in strangers, they

occasion diarrhœa, which proved fatal to fourteen of my companions,

whilst we were awaiting an opportunity of sailing to Europe, in the city

of Buenos-Ayres, whither we had assembled from different parts of the

province. I, also, was confined to my bed, and placed in extreme danger

by it. The tide of the sea spreads full a hundred leagues up the Parana,

especially when the south wind blows violently; but its waters are fresh

about six leagues from the mouth of the sea.

The Parana, now distinguished by the unmerited appellation of La Plata,

has five havens for sea-vessels; but perfect security is to be found in

neither of them. Ships rest in the port of Buenos-Ayres, three leagues

from land, exposed to all winds and storms. The south wind, which rages

most in those parts, threatens immediate destruction, unless the anchors

and cables be very strong and firm. Long, light ships, called Lanchas,

which are much used in this river, draw to land by the river Riachuelo,

when it is augmented by the tide; for when the sea ebbs, it is too

shallow to bear those vessels. Colonia do Sacramento, which lies on the

eastern shore, opposite to the city Buenos-Ayres, and almost fifteen

leagues distant from it, (for such the width of the river is reckoned to

be,) affords a safer station for vessels, and one nearer to land, being

somewhat defended against the wind by high banks on one side, and on the

other by the neighbouring island of St. Gabriel, though this very

circumstance of the island's being so near, as well as the hidden rocks,

are great causes for apprehension, because mournfully signalized by not

a few shipwrecks. The best, and, to say truth, the only port on the same

shore, is that of Monte-Video, which is situated thirty leagues distant

from the colony, and as many from the sea, and is commodiously defended

by artillery, and by a castle which contains five hundred guards. This

bay, which is about one league and a half long from the port, and almost

circular, is protected against all winds, except the south, which is

very formidable here, by high shores, and by a lofty mountain visible at

eight leagues distance. It is also navigable to ships of war. The little

island of rabbits, La Isla de los Conejos, occupies the port. The castle

of the place is so small, considering the immense sums expended upon it

by the court of Madrid, that it rather deserves the name of a castlet.

The island Maldonado, about nine leagues distant from the mouth of the

sea, and about as many from Monte-Video, betwixt La Isla dos Lobos, and

La Isla de Flores, affords a convenient situation to ships of every

size, and a defence against the S. E. wind. The Governour, Pedro

Ceballos, fortified this bay as well as he could with new works. Men

skilled in these matters have declared it as their opinion that this

post is excellently well situated, and might be made very important to

the security of the province, if nature were assisted by art. On the

opposite shore, towards the west, the bay Barragan, twelve leagues

distant from Buenos-Ayres, affords an opportunity for repairing ships,

but little security for them. For it is every where surrounded by low

banks, and lies exposed to all winds. The entrance itself is not devoid

of danger. The harbour is indeed of wide extent, but, being rather

shallow, the larger ships remain two leagues from land. The place has no

fortifications of any kind, consisting of a very few wretched huts of

hides and rushes.

As the river La Plata has but a few ports, and those not very safe ones,

it consequently threatens navigators with an hundred dangers, on account

of the sand-banks, and shoals which occur here and there. The most

remarkable of these are two named El Banco Ingles, and El Banco Ortiz;

both of which are many leagues both in length and in breadth. The danger

is increased by some hidden rocks near La Isla dos Lobos, and La Isla de

Flores, and still more by huge crags in the neighbourhood of the port of

Monte-Video, called Las Carretas de Monte-Video, which are the more

dangerous on account of their being less easy to be seen. If the pilot

is not thoroughly acquainted with the river, or if he neglects to make

frequent use of the sounding-line, a shipwreck is inevitable. The vessel

will either be buried amid high heaps of sand, or will spring a leak

from being dashed against the rocks. This may the more certainly be

expected, if the river be so much disturbed by a strong south wind, as

to render it impossible to make any use of the rudder; for during a

tempest the waves rise mountains high, and the violence of them is

incredible. Three or four anchors will scarce hold a ship at such times.

Matteo Callao, an experienced man, captain of a war-ship named La

Esmeralda, when he brought us back to Spain from Monte-Video, was often

heard to exclaim in the river Plata, "Let me only get clear of this

devil, and I shall think myself already at the port of Cadiz." Who would

not have been terror-struck at the remembrance of so many vessels which

had recently perished there? That very ship in which we sailed from

Lisbon had nearly been added to the number of those unfortunate ones. I

will relate the affair as briefly as possible.

In Portugal, a Brazilian mulatto was hired at a great price by Feliciano

Velho, the captain of the ship, because he professed himself well

acquainted with the river La Plata, though he was, in reality, extremely

ignorant. At the entrance of the river the captain, Joseph Carvalho de

Pereira, according to custom, committed the entire management of the

ship to this man; but more ignorant than a brute, he made a dangerous

error at the very threshold. He took the ship to such a distance from

the east shore, which it ought to have kept in sight, that nothing but

water and sky was to be seen. On perceiving which, "Holloa!" exclaimed

the captain, "you will lose my ship before the sun sets!" This sudden

speech proved prophetic: for leaning over the side of the vessel, at

about two o'clock in the afternoon, I observed that the water in a

certain place was unusually disturbed, and suspecting the truth of the

matter, disclosed the circumstance to the captain, who, ascending a mast

as quick as possible, perceived that we were steering directly towards

the English Shoal, and immediately ordered the prow of the ship to be

turned towards the east: for that repercussion of the waters arose, as I

suspected, from the neighbouring quicksands. About evening we cast

anchor in very shallow water, so that the ship hardly floated at all.

After sun-set there came on a furious tempest. While the sky bellowed

with thunder, a violent south wind raised huge billows in the river, and

created much alarm lest the ship, which was fastened to a muddy bottom

with a very bad anchor, should be either dashed upon the rocks of La

Isla de Flores on one side, or upon the English Shoal on the other; for

the former were on our left, and the latter on our right, at no great

distance. Consequently, the sailors were forced to toil day and night in

pulling away the anchors and strengthening the cables. This formidable

storm lasted two days. On St. Stephen's day, about noon, the captain

thought fit to remove from this dangerous neighbourhood. But after a few

moments sail we were suddenly forced to cast anchor, for, by the

sounding-line, sands were discovered to be close at hand.

We learnt from the Spaniards, who came by night in a skiff from

Monte-Video to spy us, that we were in a dangerous situation, and near

to the rocks named Las Carretas de Monte-Video. We all vainly wished for

some one from the port, well acquainted with the river, to show us the

way. They said there was no skiff for such a person to make use of, but

that a Portugueze captain was going next day to the port of Colonia, and

that this man might go before us in a skiff and conduct our ship. Him we

expected next day to show us the way; but as he did not make his

appearance, being probably afraid of the stormy wind, we pursued our

journey, blindly wandering up and down. Thinking that we had now left

behind us the shoal named El Ortiz, we sailed, even at night, without

suspicion of danger. But, alas! the greatest danger is in security.

About day-break the ship stuck so fast upon those very shoals from which

we thought ourselves long since escaped, that for two days no industry

or nautical skill was sufficient to remove it from that place. On the

second night there arose a most violent tempest. The poop remained

immoveable, being thrust into the sand, whilst the other parts of the

ship were tost about with such violence, that it seemed every moment as

if the joints of the planks would be loosened. About the same time a

strong south wind, accompanied with continual thunder, drove such a

force of water from the sea into the river Plata, that early in the

morning the ship was extricated from that abyss of sands, and floated

once again. Carried by the same wind, now favourable to us, we entered

the port of Colonia, in safety, next day about noon. After remaining

there for two days, and being much tossed about, we were removed to the

city of Buenos-Ayres. In crossing this river, which is about fifteen

leagues wide, many of us endured more apprehension, and felt more

sickness, than in the whole ocean. For want of a better, we went in a

skiff, which age had rendered rotten, worm-eaten, and ruinous. Scarcely

did one part adhere to the other. The fury of the raging wind increased

our fear and our danger, for as it blew against us, our sails were too

much bent, and one whole side of the skiff lay under water. But all this

was nothing. We gave ourselves up for lost when the rudder was thrust

into the sand, and we stuck for some time with the prow lifted up in the

air. But who can describe the joy we felt on beholding the shore, and

entering the port which we had vainly sought for three whole months?

I have spoken the more fully on this subject, in order to show you that

successful navigation in this river depends not upon skill alone, but

upon great good-fortune. Should a violent south wind arise, skill,

knowledge, and experience all of no avail, the ship will be driven into

places where it will either perish, or at least undergo much danger. In

the year 1766, the very best skiff in the port of Buenos-Ayres,

commanded by the most excellent captains in that city, being dashed

against a shoal by the force of a stormy south wind, had its keel split

like a nut, was divided into two parts, and utterly perished, ten

Jesuits destined for the province of Chili, many Spanish grenadiers, and

all the rest of the crew being drowned, except one captain of the

grenadiers, who, with a boy of ten years old, seized hold, by chance, of

a little boat, and arrived in safety at the opposite shore, at full ten

miles distance from the place of the shipwreck. Not a single person

offered to accuse the pilot of stupidity, or want of skill. Every one

was aware that the foul tempest which had arisen in the night alone

occasioned the shipwreck. For it appears from nautical tables and

documents, that the north channel of the river is narrower and deeper,

and the south channel, on the contrary, wider but of a shallower bottom.

All knew whereabouts El Banco Inglez and El Banco Ortiz, with the other

well-known rocks, lay concealed. But who could even guess at these new

shoals, fresh heaps of sand, which either the river with its

inundations, or the sea rushing impetuously into the river, were wont to

heap up? By continually making use of the sounding-line, these later

shoals are indeed discovered, but often when it is too late, the waves

baffling all art and industry. Wherefore the wider this river extends on

each side, and the nearer it approaches to the sea, so much the more is

it to be dreaded. In this one channel the river La Plata flows between

the promontories of Sta. Maria and S. Antonio, which latter is also

called Cabo Blanco. The priest Cyriaco Morelli speaks thus concerning

the mouth of the river La Plata, in his work intituled _Fasti Novi

Orbis_, "What we call the river La Plata, is in reality an immense bay

of the sea, into which the waters of the Parana, the Paraguay, and the

Uruguay flow." Different authors give different accounts of the width of

this river where it enters the sea. Many Spaniards at this day give it

sixty leagues, others fewer, and some say it is seventy leagues across.

But Egidio Gonzalez de Avila, in the "_Ecclesiastical Theatre of the

Indies_," vol. ii. affirms that the river La Plata enters the sea by

mouths eighty leagues in width. I leave you to form your own opinion on

the subject.

I have crossed this channel twice, but must own I never measured it. It

is certain, that incautious or too credulous captains are often deceived

by the wideness of this vast river, which prevents them from seeing both

shores of it. Trusting too much to their own fallacious calculations,

they think themselves sailing on the ocean, and boldly proceed with

spread sails, and without consulting the sounding-line, but at length

when the ship strikes upon shoals, perceive too late that they are in

the river Plata, and frequently perish. I write this on my own

experience. On St. Thomas's day the ship proceeded full sail, and with a

wind as favourable as could be desired. We observed little birds, never

at other times seen on the ocean, flying about, bits of grass floating,

and the colour of the water changed, from all which it was easy to

conclude that we were near land. We represented these circumstances over

and over again to the captain, a Portugueze, who, though in other

respects a worthy and prudent man, relied too much on his own

observations, and was somewhat pertinacious and opiniated He insisted

upon it that we were far from land, and openly declared that he should

pursue his present course, full sail, till seven o'clock at night. We

should have perished had he acted according to his word. For about

sun-set, a short-lived but violent gust of wind sprung up. All sails

were lowered as usual. We perceived that the ship was surrounded on all

sides by seals, which were the means of saving our lives by proving that

we were in the perilous river La Plata, or at least in the entrance of

it. For you will never see these amphibious animals in the main sea, it

being their daily custom to quit the water and go upon shore. The

testimony of the seals was also confirmed by the sounding-line, by which

we discovered that the bottom was but a very few cubits deep. The

captain convinced of his former error, thought fit to put in practice

the maxim _festina lente_! We stuck between the hammer and the anvil,

when that first squall was succeeded by a tempest accompanied with

thunder and a furious south wind. Lest the ship should be driven to the

neighbouring promontory of Sta. Maria, or on to the shoals, the sails

were placed in such a manner that the wind when it falls into one is

repelled by the other, by which means the ship, floating in the same

place, is prevented from proceeding. About the middle of the night, the

wind abating a little, we proceeded very slowly with but one sail. At

dusk in the evening unknown tracts of land presented themselves to our

eyes. At length the sun being fully risen, it was not without terror

that we beheld ourselves scarce a gun-shot from the lofty rocks of the

promontory of Sta. Maria. Our alarm was increased when, after repeatedly

casting the sounding-line, the sailors discovered that, to the imminent

danger of the ship, the bottom was but six fathoms deep. For the sea

being at ebb, and the waters momently decreasing more and more, we

should have been becalmed, and consequently disenabled from receding

from the neighbouring rocks, where, if the south wind returned, we

should be dashed to pieces, but if the calm lasted we must stick fast in

the shallows. We derived safety and incredible consolation from the sun,

then at the meridian, from observation of which we at length discovered

whereabouts we were. Two hours after noon a gentle gale arose, which

enabled us to quit the shallows and that threatening shore, and to

re-enter the main sea. The wind becoming more favourable after sun-set,

we stole into the very channel of the river, and about dawning got sight

of La Isla de Lobos. But this short-lived joy was saddened the same day

with all those wanderings and perils which I have just related. From all

this you may conclude how formidable the width of the river La Plata is

to captains of ever so long experience.

The name of the river Plata being spread throughout Europe in former

times, many of the Spaniards flew to Paraguay, and after all found

nothing but poverty, where they expected riches. Paraguay is surrounded

by the provinces of Chili, Peru, and Quito, which abound in gold,

silver, gems, and precious stones, neither of which is to be found in

Paraguay. Some of them might perhaps be discovered, you will say, if

properly searched for, but this I do not believe, knowing how sagacious

and quick-sighted the Spaniards are in seeking for treasures concealed

in the bosom of the earth; as, therefore, they have never hitherto

endeavoured to dig for gold and silver, or have been unsuccessful in the

attempt, I am firmly persuaded that there are none to be found; and the

longer I remained in this country, the more was my opinion on that head

strengthened by convincing proofs and experiments. In many places signs

of hidden metal were sometimes discovered, but they served rather to

drain the purses of the more credulous Spaniards than to enrich them. I

will fairly relate whatever occurs to my memory relative to the attempts

that were made to discover metals, and the ridiculous ideas that were

entertained on this head. I was intimately acquainted with a merchant in

the city of St. Iago del Estero, who had formerly been opulent, but was

at that time reduced to ruin. Hoping to become as rich as Crœsus, he

directed his whole thoughts and faculties towards discovering mines.

Emissaries were hired to search in those places which were thought to

contain metals. At much expense he undertook a journey to the Governour

of Tucuman, who lived at a great distance, to obtain from him a right to

dig for gold. He spent immense sums upon workmen, mules, provision, and

other instruments necessary for searching the bowels of the earth, with

no reward for his pains, except spending the riches that he already

possessed, without obtaining those which he promised himself under

ground, and remained ever afterwards indigent and derided by all. Yet

deluded by his hopes, he had still to learn wisdom. He knew that about

eighty leagues distant from the city of St. Iago, was a place named

Hierro, which runs out into an extensive plain covered with rich grass.

Not a stone or even a pebble is to be seen in the whole vicinity. Here

and there appears out of the turf a plank, or the trunk of a tree,

having the appearance of iron, except that by its shining it bears some

sort of resemblance to silver. The good man now thought he had reached

the summit of his wishes, for he swore that silver mixed with iron lay

concealed in this place, to the great amusement of all that heard him.

He gave a little piece of this metal, which he had eagerly snatched up,

to a smith to be melted in the city. The Spaniards who were present

privily slipped some pieces of silver money into the furnace. When,

therefore, he beheld the melted mass, consisting of silver and that kind

of iron flowing from the furnace, he thought himself the happiest of

mankind. But understanding that he had been cheated, and cajoled, he

flew into a rage, and threatened the authors of the deceit with every

thing that was dreadful. An European smith, after carefully trying that

exotic metal with fire, informed me that it was a sort of iron, but so

hard and so brittle, that no art would be sufficient to bend or reduce

it to any kind of form, and consequently that it was of no use whatever.

I will tell you another anecdote of the same kind.

A certain merchant of Cordoba was involved in very great pecuniary

difficulties, to extricate himself from which he forsook his old

calling, and took up that of a physician, in which he was never properly

instructed;—a metamorphosis by no means uncommon amongst the Europeans

who reside in America. Deserters from the army and navy, if they

exercise any handicraft trade, will never find a wife in Paraguay. To

obviate this objection they apply themselves to merchandise. Whoever has

his shop filled with tallow-candles, cheese, knives, needles, scissors,

linen or woollen neck-handkerchiefs, and some flagons of brandy, is

styled a merchant, immediately becomes noble, is esteemed superior to

the vulgar, and fit to make any marriage connection, or hold any

magistracy. Reduced to ruin, from merchants they suddenly become

physicians. These ignorant quacks, who in Europe hardly know how to

shave a beard, breathe a vein, cut the nails, apply cupping-glasses to

the skin, administer an injection, or spread a plaster, give themselves

out for Galens in Paraguay, and slay the rich with impunity at all hours

of the day. Such an one was Bartholomew. Finding his purse no way filled

by the diseases and deaths of others, and being universally dreaded, he

at length changed his mind, forsook his gallipots, and turned his

thoughts towards metals, the last anchor of his hopes. A vague report

had been spread that in the mountains near Cordoba, signs of hidden gold

had manifested themselves. Having consulted those persons who were best

informed on this subject, obtained leave of the royal Governours, hired

men to dig, and purchased cattle to maintain them, solely on the promise

of reward, he explored, for some time, the bowels of the earth, but with

no success, with great loss, and terrible expense, as it was necessary

to convey both wood and water many leagues on the backs of mules.

Overwhelmed with debts, which his hopes of discovering gold had led him

to contract, this wretched man served to teach others that it is safer

to seek for gold on the surface of the earth, than in the subterranean

caverns of the Cordoban mountains. And indeed no one, that I know of,

from that time forward ever thought of seeking there for mines of gold.

A report was spread amongst the common people, that the Indians, before

the coming of the Spaniards, had dug gold out of the mountains which

surround the city Rioja. But every attempt of the Spaniards to find this

noble metal in those mountains was uniformly unsuccessful. That small

pieces of gold had been discovered in our times in the mountains near

the city of Monte-Video, I was informed by Andonaegui, Governour of

Buenos-Ayres. Though the Catholic King was made acquainted with this

circumstance, no pains were ever taken to examine and excavate those

mountains, it being thought that there was little hope, and perhaps no

reality in the matter. Some one reported that amethysts had been found

in the river Rosario, near the city of Monte-Video; but I thought that

they either were not genuine, or had been brought thither from some

other place, as no one was known to have taken the pains to seek for

more in the same river.

The first Spanish inhabitants entertained a thorough belief that the

province of Guayra was rich in metals; and there too, they promised

themselves to find abundance of precious stones. They had not yet learnt

that all that glitters is not gold nor diamonds either. On the shores of

the Parana, they found some stones which they called _cocos de mina_.

These stones in shape are sometimes round, sometimes oval; their surface

is rough and hard, and of a dark colour. In size they are equal to a

pomegranate, and sometimes to a man's head. Within the outer shell they

contain little stones of various colours, and great value in the eyes of

ignorant persons, who take them for crystal, amethysts, rubies,

emeralds, &c. But they are deceived. Jewellers rate them about as high

as Bohemian stones. They say that the _cocos de mina_, pregnant with

these kinds of pebbles, burst with a noise as loud as that of a gun,

when what they consider the noble burden which their womb contains is

mature. This appearance and these properties are attributed to them by

the vulgar, with what truth I know not, for though I have travelled over

the greatest part of Paraguay, particularly the shores of the Parana,

with eyes attentive to nature, I never saw a stone of this kind. I do

not pretend to say that the _coco de mina_ may not have its value in the

other provinces of America, which produce genuine jewels, but I boldly

deny that any inhabitant of Paraguay was ever enriched with one. The

foolish credulity of certain persons, who, from this fallacious

resemblance of jewels, hoped to gain riches, was punished with extreme

poverty, as we all know. Xerez, Ciudad Real, and Villa Rica, cities

formerly accounted fountains of metals and of riches, have all proved

seminaries of indigence and misery. What was called Villa Rica, or the

Rich City, was never opulent in reality, but only so in name, and the

hopes it held out of discovering metals.

Finding no gold and silver in those parts of Paraguay which their feet

had traversed and their eyes beheld, they persuaded themselves and

others that these metals were concealed in the native soil of the

Guaranies, whom the Jesuits had undertaken to instruct in religion. From

this false conjecture, how many lies have been coined, who many

calumnies launched against us! By the royal authority and at the desire

of the Jesuits, there were sent men commissioned to search diligently if

any metal existed in the Guarany territories. These explorers were

attended, in the capacity of guide, by a Guarany deserter, a man of bad

character. This rogue had been induced, by the gifts and liberal

promises of some enemy of the Jesuits, to declare that he had seen gold

mines at the banks of the Uruguay, in the land belonging to Concepcion,

a town of the Guaranies, and that this place was strengthened like a

fort with strong holds, warlike machines, and a numerous garrison.

Thither they directly hastened, and when they were a very few leagues

distant from that _golden_ spot, the knavish Indian, fearing the

punishment of his falsehood, which must be discovered next day, fled

away in the night; but being taken in the town of Yapeyù, by the

missionary himself, was sent back, chained and guarded, to the Spaniards

from whom he had deserted. The cheat respecting those gold mines and

fortifications was thus brought to light, and the phantoms raised by

falsehood and calumny disappeared. The Spaniards examined every corner

far and near; after which they unanimously and publicly declared that no

mines existed in that place, nor indeed that any one, who considered the

nature of the situation, could rationally expect them to be produced

there. The Indian was punished for his perfidy. Certain Spaniards, who

had thus falsely accused the Jesuits, were declared calumniators,

punished with confiscation of their goods and public infamy, and

pronounced incapable of holding any office in the state. By these royal

fulminations calumny was for a little while repressed; yet the

ridiculous suspicion that mines were buried amongst the Guaranies was

not yet extinct; it was even propagated amongst the more credulous

Europeans.

I have often laughed at beholding the eagerness and solicitude with

which the Spaniards, who visited the Guarany towns, gathered up all the

little worthless stones they met with on the way, and which, on account

of their various colours, they thought to be emeralds, amethysts, or

rubies. Every thing that was found on the Guarany soil they took for

gold and jewels. Diamonds, which nature has denied to every part of

Paraguay, were reported to abound in the land of the Guaranies. In the

Gazeta de Madrid, I read this article, dated London. "They write from

Brazil that the Jesuits of Paraguay have brought their diamond mines to

such a degree of perfection, that it is greatly to be apprehended the

diamonds of Brazil will decrease in value." I submitted this paragraph

to the perusal of Charles Murphy, Governour of Paraguay, and I cannot

tell whether it excited his laughter or his indignation the most. I

would have bought the smallest particle of a diamond at any price, to

cut the glass for the various uses of the church, but could never meet

with any one who possessed such a thing, and was, consequently, always

obliged to make use of a flint instead. If the savages at the straits of

Magellan have any metal, they must have got it from the mountains where

every one knows that metals are found. But the province of Chili differs

as much from Paraguay, as Austria does from its neighbour Hungary. The

one abounds in gold and silver, the other is absolutely destitute of

both. The Portugueze in Cuyaba, in Matto Grosso, and in the fortlet of

Sta. Rosa, collect sands from various rivers, out of which they pick

very small particles of gold, formerly with the connivance of the

Spaniards, and since the last declaration of peace with their open

consent. For the Portugueze always contended that the above-mentioned

territories were comprehended within the limits of Brazil, whilst the

Spaniards annexed them to Paraguay, or their own Peru. That you may

perceive the truth of what I say, I will fairly describe the liberality

of nature towards Paraguay. You shall see and laugh at its treasures.

At the close of the last century, Father Antony Sepp found out a method

of extracting a small quantity of iron from stones named _ytacurù_, by

dint of a very hot fire kept up for twenty-four hours. But he had

scarcely any imitators, for the quantity of iron obtained was so

inconsiderable, in proportion to the labour and firewood spent upon it,

that it was not thought worth the trouble. These stones, which are

composed of a number of very small pebbles, are of a dusky colour,

mottled with black spots. In our times, somewhat more iron has been

brought in the Spanish ships, but even now it is sold at a price

incredible to Europeans. All the Guarany youths, on their marriage-day,

and the married people at the beginning of January, receive from the

Jesuit, the priest of the town, a common knife to use at table. This

donation is more expensive than Europeans may imagine, as some of the

towns contain four thousand inhabitants, some six or seven. Yet,

notwithstanding the dearness of iron, none of us ever thought of

procuring a trifling quantity of it, with immense labour, from the

stones named _ytacurù_.

Out of the Cordoban mountains, they sometimes dig _talc_, a sort of

softish white stone, very light, and of no firmness. It consists of

slender laminæ, so that it may be divided with a knife into small

plates, and is sometimes dipped in water. When slightly burnt, it

assumes the softness of paper and the colour of silver, and is used to

make little images and other figures to adorn poor churches. Out of the

numerous leaves of which this stone is composed, you will find few

entirely white and transparent, for most of them are darkened with black

or yellow spots. The better ones supply the place of glass in windows

and lanterns; for that article was extremely scarce and dear, in 1748,

when I arrived in Paraguay. I could not see one glass window in the

chief colleges of the province, nor in the towns of the Guaranies. Every

one made his own window of the stone talc, (which is difficult to

procure,) of paper, or linen cloth; and as these substitutes were torn

away by every shower or boisterous wind, was continually under the

necessity of making repairs. But in the last years of my residence in

Paraguay, a quantity of glass was brought thither in the Spanish ships,

and the price being reduced, the houses and churches shone with glass

windows. In the churches, where they look towards the south, instead of

a glass window, they place a hard, white, and transparent stone, which

is a kind of alabaster, and is brought at a great expense from Peru, its

native soil. For the south wind, which is excessively violent in South

America, at the first gust breaks all the glass that opposes its fury,

often levelling whole houses, breaking enormous masts of large ships,

and tearing up lofty cedars by the roots. Stones fit for making lime are

to be met with in almost any part of Paraguay, but they are not found in

the territories of the Abipones and Guaranies. The shores of the

Paraguay and other rivers afford gypsum. The Guaranies, who dwell at a

distance from these shores, make use of burnt snails' shells, or of a

chalk like fuller's earth, which they call _tobaty_, in whitening their

houses. At the banks of the greater Tebiguarỹ, I sometimes saw marble of

a black colour, spotted with green, but of very small dimensions. I know

not whether any other marbles or remarkable stones are concealed in the

bosom of the earth elsewhere. Red and black flints, containing plenty of

fire, and extremely fit for muskets, may be seen in many places,

especially at the banks of the Uruguay; but instruments to cut them, and

fit them for the use of muskets, are wanting. Whether Paraguay produces

alum, sulphur, and mercury, I do not know.

Many have committed mistakes who have written concerning Paraguay, in

that country itself. They have liberally bestowed treasures upon it, not

because it really possesses them, but because they have dreamt of them

in a country utterly destitute of all metals. The blind man dreamt that

he saw, as the Spanish proverb goes, and he dreamt of what he desired.

_El çiego soñaba que veia, y soñaba lo que queria._ To this number

belongs Martin del Barco, Archdeacon in the city of Buenos-Ayres, who,

in his poem intituled _Argentina, y Conquista del Rio de la Plata_,

affirms that pearls are formed in some lake, near which the Abipones

inhabit. The oldest of the Indians, the most distinguished for

experience and veracity, who were born in that neighbourhood, and had

dwelt there for many years, all answered, with one accord, that they had

never seen any pearls, nor heard any thing about them from their

ancestors. Would not these savages, who continually adorn their necks,

arms, and legs, with glass beads brought from Europe, with little round

globes made of cockle-shells, with the seeds and kernels of various

fruit and the claws of birds, would not they have grasped eagerly at

pearls, which are naturally so bright, had they ever met with any? We

may therefore safely pronounce this lake, said to produce pearls, a mere

fable, long since expunged from history by all sensible persons.

Silver vessels are seen in the houses of the Spaniards, and silver

utensils in the churches of the cities. In the Guarany colonies, not

only the altars, but sometimes the very ceilings are gilded. This I do

not deny. But all that gold and silver was not created in the bowels of

Paraguay, but brought from the provinces of Chili or Peru. The Guaranies

make very large brass bells for their own churches, or for those of the

Spaniards; but the people of Chili supply them with brass. No money is

coined in any part of Paraguay in the name of the King, or of any other

person.

Excepting a few cities, which carry on commerce with European ships, or

with the neighbouring people of Peru, and Chili, and the Portugueze,

money is used very rarely, if at all, its place being supplied by the

exchange of commodities, as amongst the ancients. Horses, mules, oxen,

sheep, tobacco, cotton, the herb of Paraguay, sugar, salt, various kinds

of grain, fruits, vegetables, the skins of animals, &c. are used instead

of money in Paraguay; with these all necessaries are purchased, and the

usual stipends and taxes paid to the bishops, priests and governours,

especially in the district of Asumpcion. The prices of all natural

productions are regulated by the magistrates, and are diligently learnt

and observed both by the seller, and the purchaser. In a very few towns,

where money is used, we find only three kinds of silver coins, namely,

the _peso fuerte_, _peso de plata_, or _patacon_, which is equal in

value to a Spanish crown, or to two German florens: the _real de plata_,

and the _medio real de plata_; the first of which is equivalent to five

German _groschen_, the other to seven _cruitzers_ and a half. You never

see any gold or copper money. The Indians in the towns entrusted to our

charge are entirely unprovided with money, and the Jesuits likewise,

except that we had fourteen silver pieces, or as many rials, or _medios

reales de plata_, in every town. For these pieces of money, according to

the custom of the Spanish church, in public weddings, are given by the

parish priest to the bridegroom, and by him to the bride, as a dowry,

but are afterwards returned again to the priest, that the same money,

and the same nuptial rings, may serve over and over again. I think that

you may aptly apply to Paraguay what was said of Germany by Tacitus, De

Moribus Germanorum: _Argentum et aurum propitii, an irati Dii

negaverint, dubito_. If liberal nature had there created gold and

silver, if art and industry had discovered those metals, the Spaniards

would long since have left off breeding cattle, and cultivating the

celebrated herb, both irksome employments. The Indians, who must then

have been occupied in digging metals, would have shunned both the

religion and friendship of the Spaniards, since they found them coupled

with slavery; and we Jesuits should never have induced so many savages

to embrace our religion; so that the want or ignorance of metals may be

reckoned amongst the divine blessings and advantages of Paraguay.

Though Paraguay is entirely destitute of metals, yet it can by no means

be called a poor country. It abounds in things necessary for human

subsistence, and especially in all kinds of cattle. The whole world does

not contain a country more numerously supplied with oxen, horses, mules,

and sheep; which were formerly brought to Paraguay, and in the course of

two hundred years increased marvellously, both on account of the

richness of the pastures, and the unbounded liberty they possessed of

wandering up and down the plains, both by day and night, at every time

of the year. The quantity of kine which exists there is scarce credible

to a European. Fifty years ago, when all the plains were covered with

wild oxen, travellers were obliged to send horsemen before them to clear

the way, by driving away the beasts which stood threatening them with

their horns. It is, therefore, no wonder that at that time a full grown

ox was sold for five _groschen_, (a _real de plata_,) as appears from

the old books of valuations. Every Spaniard who intended to enlarge his

estate hired a troop of horse, who brought him eight, ten, or more,

thousands of cows and bulls from the country, within a few weeks. Do you

desire to be made acquainted with the shape of the Paraguayrian oxen? In

height they equal those of Hungary, and generally surpass them in the

size of their bodies, though not of the same, but of various colours.

With a sort of ferocious arrogance they imitate stags in the manner of

holding their lofty heads, and almost equal them in swiftness. Unless a

long drought have impoverished the pastures, every ox yields such a

weight of fat, that two robust men are sometimes scarce able to carry

it. The fat of oxen is always used instead of butter in culinary

preparations; for the cows are very seldom milked, on account of their

ferocity; the taming of them is a long and laborious process, and

consequently odious to the slothful Spaniards and Indians. When tamed,

they will not suffer themselves to be milked, unless their feet are tied

and their calf is standing beside them. Sometimes the mothers are sent

with their calves to the pastures, return home at evening of their own

accord, and are separated at night, unless their milk has been exhausted

by the calves—on which account milk and cheese are very seldom used in

Paraguay, butter scarcely ever. A butcher and shambles are words unknown

to the Paraguayrians. Every one slays his oxen at his pleasure. The

poorer sort do not buy pounds of meat, as is customary in Europe, but a

part of a slaughtered ox, which they generally owe to the liberality of

the rich. Two or three young men are sufficient to kill the most furious

bull. One throws a noose of leather over his neck, another casts one

round his hind legs, and cuts the nerve of one of them, then, leaping on

his back, fixes a knife in his neck; thus the ox falls, despatched at

one blow.

An ox-hide, which measures three ells from the head to the tail, and is

called by the Spaniards a legal hide, is bought by merchants at six

German florens, though a whole live ox is sold for only two florens

amongst the Guaranies, and for four amongst the Spaniards; for the

labour employed on hides, even before they are dressed, increases their

price. They are carefully fastened to the ground, to be dried, with

wooden pegs, under shelter, in a place where the fresh air is admitted;

and lest moths should gnaw or strip them of their hairs, for thirteen

or, at least, eight days, the dust which ingenders these insects must be

diligently beaten from them with a stick. This labour, which was often

continued for many months, whilst some thousands of them were disposed

of, is rated very high by the Spaniards who sell them. It is incredible

what art and industry are employed in stretching hides, which come a

little short of three ells, to the usual size, though when made as thin

as paper they are totally useless to European curriers, on account of

whose complaints this stretching of hides has long since been

prohibited. The Spaniards, finding that the trade in hides was by far

the most profitable to them of any, were possessed with a blind rage for

killing all the oxen they could lay hands on. For this purpose, troops

of horse were perpetually traversing those plains which abounded most in

wild cattle. The horsemen employed have each separate tasks assigned

them. Some furnished with swift horses attack a herd of oxen, and with a

long spear, to which is added a sharp semicircular scythe, disable the

older bulls by cutting the nerve of the hinder foot; others throw the

halter on them whilst they are staggering, and others follow behind to

knock down and slay the captive bulls. The rest are employed in

stripping the hides off the slaughtered animals, conveying them to an

appointed place, fixing them to the ground with pegs, and taking out and

carrying away the tongues, suet, and fat. The rest of the flesh, which

would suffice to feed a numerous army in Europe, is left on the plain to

be devoured by tigers, wild dogs and ravens; and indeed one might almost

fear lest the air should be corrupted by such a quantity of dead bodies.

In an expedition of this kind, lasting several weeks, the person at

whose expense it is undertaken is supplied with some thousands of hides.

This custom of hunting and slaughtering oxen, being continued for a

whole century, exhausted almost all the plains of wild cattle. You no

longer saw those public and immense herds of innumerable oxen, which

belonged to no one in particular, but might be appropriated to the use

of any. It must be attributed to the extensiveness of the plains, and

the fertility of the soil, that in the Paraguayrian estates the number

of oxen is still so great that Europe may envy, but cannot hope to equal

them. At this day a fat ox may be bought for four florens amongst the

Spaniards, and two amongst the Guaranies. In the first years that I

spent there one floren was the universal price, but as the number of

herds was daily decreasing, the price increased in proportion. I have

known Spaniards who possessed about an hundred thousand oxen in their

estates. The town Yapeyù, which was dedicated to the three kings,

contained fifty thousand; that of S. Miguel many more, but not one

superfluous. At least forty oxen were daily slaughtered to satisfy the

appetites of seven thousand Guaranies. Add to these the oxen which are

privily slain by the Indians, either in the town or the estate, and

those which are daily consumed by hostile savages, by tigers, wild dogs,

and worms which are bred in the navels of calves. Every merchant's ship

transports thirty, and sometimes forty, ox-hides into Europe. Who can

reckon the number of hides daily employed in manufacturing ropes,

building hedges and houses, and making trunks, saddles, and wrappers for

the herb of Paraguay, tobacco, sugar, wheat, cotton and other things?

The common people amongst the Spaniards have no other bed than an

ox-hide stretched upon the ground, which is also the case with an

innumerable crowd of negro slaves. Beef is the principal, daily, and

almost only food of the lower orders in Paraguay. Moreover that quantity

of meat which would overload the stomach of a European is scarce

sufficient to satisfy the appetite of an American. A Guarany, after

fasting but a very few hours, will devour a young calf. An Indian,

before he lies down to sleep, places a piece of meat to roast at the

fire, that he may eat immediately when he wakes. Place food before him,

and the rising and the setting sun will behold him with his jaws at work

and his mouth full, but with an appetite still unsatisfied. Such being

the voracity of the inhabitants, and so continual the slaughters of

innumerable oxen, you will agree with me that Paraguay may be called the

devouring grave, as well as the seminary of cattle.

Besides this incredible multitude of oxen, Paraguay breeds an infinite

number of horses, all sprung from seven mares which the Spaniards

brought with them. The whole of that plain country, extending from the

river Plata full two hundred leagues in every direction, is covered with

droves of wandering horses, of which any person may catch as many as he

likes, and make them his own property. Some horsemen, within a few days,

bring home more than a thousand horses from the plain. A hunt of this

kind is performed in various ways. Some catch every horse they come near

with a leathern cord. Others construct a hedge with a wide entrance like

the sleeve of a garment, through which they drive a herd of horses,

separated from the rest, into the inclosed space, where, after they have

been confined for some time, hunger and thirst render them gentle, and

they are easily led away wherever the owner chooses, in company with

other tame horses. Sometimes a part of the plain is burnt. The horses

crowding eagerly to crop the new grass, are surrounded on all sides, and

forced away by the hunters. There were some who secured the mares that

were taken in this manner, by slightly cutting the nerve of the hinder

foot, to prevent their running away. A horse of this kind of either sex,

when brought from the country, and before it is accustomed to the saddle

and bridle, is sometimes bought for ten or thirteen cruitzers. The colts

of the mares are given gratis to the purchasers.

Horses in Paraguay are valued, or the contrary, not according to their

colour, or the conformation of their bodies, but chiefly according to

their natural method of going, which is of four different kinds. The

most esteemed are those which have not the common trot, but move very

gently, and when spurred begin to amble, so that the rider might hold a

cup full of liquor in his hand, and not spill a drop. They are either

born with this kind of pace, or are taught it by art. If the mother be

an ambler, though the father may not have been so, the colt will

generally prove an ambler also; but more certainly if both parents have

been of that kind. The young horses that are most remarkable for beauty

of form, and for strength, are selected from the rest, and taught that

easy and swift manner of moving. Their fore feet are fastened to their

hinder ones in such a manner, that, though still able to walk, they

cannot practise their natural method of leaping, which is so unpleasant

to the rider. Others tie to the feet of the young horse a round stone,

wrapped up in a skin, which strikes his legs when he attempts to trot,

and makes him endeavour, through fear of the pain, to walk gently. This

method of teaching is practised in all the Guarany towns. An ambling nag

goes two leagues in the space of an hour, unless impeded by the

roughness of the road; nor can a common horse keep up with him, unless

spurred by the rider to a gallop. But the natural pace of those horses

which the Spaniards call _trotones_, the Abipones _nichilicheranetà_,

and the Germans _trabganger_, is very unpleasant to the rider; for they

lift up their feet like pestles, violently shaking the rider's body: yet

as they tread firmly, and lift up their feet at every step, they stumble

seldomer than the amblers, which, scarce raising their feet from the

ground, and uniting the greatest swiftness to gentleness, by striking

their hoofs against stones, roots of trees, and hard clods, more

frequently fall and throw their rider, especially when there is no

beaten path. In long journeys, especially through rugged places, it is

best to make use of those horses between the amblers and the trotters,

which, as they approach more nearly to the human method of walking,

fatigue the rider less, are not so soon fatigued themselves, and are not

so apt to stumble.

Much are those historians mistaken, who have persuaded the celebrated

Robertson that the American horses have small bodies, and no spirit, and

that they are mere dwarfs and spectres in comparison with those of

Europe. I boldly affirm that the Paraguayrian horses differ nothing from

those of our own country in size, shape, and good qualities. You meet

everywhere with horses of lofty, or of middling stature; some well

fitted for a vaulter, and others for a man armed cap-a-pié. Pygmies,

like Corsican horses, are as rare in Paraguay as comets in the sky. I

allow that Paraguay is as yet unacquainted with horses like the natives

of the Styrian mountains, which almost resemble elephants in their

immense back, huge limbs, and broad hoofs: this country produces

slenderer horses, better adapted for riding and racing than for chariots

and waggons. But were they fed like those of Europe on oats and barley,

and defended in a stable against the inclemencies of the weather, they

would very probably grow to the same size. The horses of Paraguay are

born out of doors, and remain there, night and day, the whole year

round; are fed upon any grass they can find, (which is not always either

very good, or very plentiful,) and upon leaves of trees, or dry wood;

they often seek in vain for water to quench their thirst, and find it

neither good, nor in sufficient quantities. Being constantly in the open

air, they are exposed at one time to the scorching sun; at another to

continual showers; sometimes to hoar frosts; when a south wind is up, to

bitter cold; and at all times and places to the stings of flies,

gad-flies, and gnats, infinite swarms of which flit up and down. I

attribute it to these causes that the horses of Paraguay never attain to

the size of the Styrian, Holsatian, Danish, and Neapolitan horses.

During the winter months, the former grow lean from feeding upon poor

grass, and their hair becomes darker, but at the return of fine weather,

they regain their strength and natural colour. They fatten so much in

fertile pastures, abounding in grass and nitre, that you might count

money upon their back, as on a table—a common saying in regard to very

fat horses amongst the Spaniards. But though the richness of the grass

greatly fattens the Paraguayrian horses, it never gives them that

strength which European horses derive from food composed of oats,

barley, straw, and hay, which enables them to bear a rider, and to draw

a cart, every day, and all day.

All the different colours, by which horses are distinguished in Europe,

are to be found in those of Paraguay. They are oftener, however, white,

and chesnut-coloured, than black or bay; a circumstance which gave me

much surprize, as men born in the same climate, whether of European or

American parents, are almost always distinguished by very black, coarse

hair. White and chesnut-coloured horses are indeed very pleasing to the

eyes, and possess great gentleness and docility; but experience has

taught me that they are much sooner fatigued, and seldom possess that

strength which we see in horses of a black or reddish colour, especially

those in which the red resembles the colour of toasted bread: the

patience with which these horses endure labour, and travelling, is

expressed in an old Spanish proverb, importing that they will die before

they are fatigued: _Alazan tostado antes muerto, que cansado_. We have,

however, frequently found white horses sprinkled with black, with black

manes and tails, to possess a great deal of strength. The same may be

said with regard to the darker bays, which have manes and tails of a

blackish colour. Pybald horses in Paraguay are thought crafty and

dangerous; nor are they slandered in this respect, as I have frequently

found to my cost, although I may truly say that I never bestrode a

Paraguayrian horse, of whatever colour it might be, with that confidence

and security which I feel in mounting an European one; for many of them

are apt to wince, and be stubborn, to stumble and throw their rider, and

almost all are startlish and fearful, being terrified at any sudden

noise, or the sight of any strange object; whereupon, if the bridle be

neglected they will stand with their head lifted up to the breast of

their rider, or rear, and throw him off, or fling him to a distance, if

he be not very firmly seated.

In such a vast multitude of horses, there is necessarily great variety.

You will see some handsomer, stronger, and swifter than others, as in

Europe. Those which have a broad breast, a small head, large and black

eyes, short and pricking ears, wide nostrils, a bushy mane, a large and

long tail, hairy feet, a small belly, a wide round back, straight

slender legs and hard hoofs, not indented, like a comb; those which,

with playful alacrity, provoke the rest to fight in the plain, leap

ditches without the least hesitation, cross marshes quickly, and, as

soon as they are released from the saddle and bridle, joyfully roll

themselves on the ground, are esteemed superior to all others in

Paraguay. Those born in rough, stony situations are preferred to the

natives of a soft, clayey soil; for this reason, that if you remove a

horse accustomed to such places, to soft, marshy plains, you will find

him slacken his pace, and walk slowly and timidly for a long time. This

fear is occasioned by the earth's yielding to their hoofs. But a horse

bred on a soft soil, when brought to stony places, and gravelly roads,

will often stumble and get lame—his hoofs being bruised, and even made

bloody by the roughness of the stones. Horseshoes are never used in

Paraguay, though that country abounds in rocks and stones. A horseshoe

would cost more than any horse, on account of the dearness of iron, and

moreover because blacksmiths are not even known here by name. The

experience of many years has taught me that horses, wherever they are

born, in a few months grow accustomed to any soil. Mares kept for the

purpose of breeding have their manes and tails shorn by the Spaniards,

that they may fatten sooner, for I know of no other reason. But horses

kept for riding are adorned with a long bushy tail, which increases

their beauty and value. Even the meanest negro slave would think it an

indignity and a punishment were he ordered to ride on a horse that was

deprived of its tail. The Indians think we are jesting when they hear us

say that in Europe there exist men who cut off the tails of their

horses, and reckon it an improvement; for they think that a handsome

tail is not only a great ornament to a horse, but likewise his

instrument of defence, with which he drives away the swarms of flies and

gnats. A Spanish priest, of an advanced age, who had long been in a bad

state of health, had in his possession a horse of an extremely gentle

disposition, as well as of a quick and easy pace. This horse the old man

made use of, in preference to innumerable others that he possessed, in

all his necessary journeys. A certain Spaniard had long wished for the

horse, and vainly offered to give for it whatever price the owner chose.

Impatient of repulse, he dared to threaten that, unless the old man

would sell the horse of his own accord, he should steal it from him. The

owner, fearing that he would have very little difficulty in

accomplishing his threat, said to his servant, "Go, and cut off the tail

of that horse of mine: it is better to lose a part of him than the

whole. When deprived of his tail he will be laughed at by all who see

him, but he will at least be secured from thieves. I would rather be

derided myself for using a horse without a tail, than have all my bones

and limbs jolted to pieces, like pepper in a mortar, by any other

trotting beast." To mutilate the tail of another person's horse, is a

bitter and not uncommon kind of revenge amongst the lower orders of

Spaniards; it is also thought an insufferable insult for one man to call

another _un rabon_, a horse without a tail.

To keep horses in good condition, or make them so, it is of much

importance that they be kept extremely clean; for if their skin is

covered with dust, their mane uncombed, their tail full of scurf, and

their hair matted together, the perspiration is obstructed by the pores

being stopped up, and consequently they, by degrees, grow lean and

scraggy, or get the mange. On this account, the Spaniards and Abipones,

who are most careful of their property, though less solicitous than

Europeans about combing, washing, and rubbing down their horses, and

unprovided with instruments for those purposes, take great care to

prevent their growing dirty, though they have no other stable than the

open plain, day and night, during every part of the year. If thistles,

thorns, and other prickly plants of that kind stick to their tails, they

carefully extricate them by anointing their hair with tallow. After

performing a journey, when the harness is taken off, they wash and wipe

the back of the horse, which is bathed in perspiration, and lest the

coldness of the air should cause it to swell, keep it covered, for some

time, with a horsecloth. Moreover the health and liveliness of horses

are best preserved by taking care that their pastures be not situated

very far either from clear lakes or limpid rivers, where the horses may

drink and bathe at their pleasure; for in the winter months the cold air

makes them lean and mangy, and the frequent droughts produce the same

effect in the summer season, unless they have an opportunity of laving

and swimming.

In the plains of Paraguay, which abound in cattle, not only are numerous

snakes concealed in the grass, but even many herbs, more noxious than

the most deadly snake, present themselves to their hungry jaws. The

commonest of these is that which the natives call _nio_. It has a tall

stalk with a yellow blossom, but contains a deadly poison. Horses after

feeding upon it are seized with a feverish trembling, which terminates

in death. Horses born in places which produce this poisonous herb,

devour it with impunity, but are always contemned as feeble and

incapable of enduring the fatigues of a journey. The Spaniards use the

following method to prevent their horses from tasting this deadly food.

When marching against the enemy, they daily send forward some of their

companions to explore the whole country round about where the horses are

to feed. Whenever they find any of those poisonous herbs they pluck a

few, tie them into a bundle, and set fire to them, so that the smoke

arising from thence is conveyed by a contrary wind to the troop, and the

smell of it inspires them with a horror of the pestilent herb. For

though they eagerly crop the rest of the grass, they leave that

untouched. But alas! there are many other instruments of death, tigers,

serpents and worms, by which an incredible number of horses are yearly

destroyed. The worms which gnaw the horses are occasioned by the saddles

made use of in Paraguay. Those that are made of dressed leather are

stuffed with two bundles of rushes, which lie upon the ribs of the horse

in such a manner, that the saddles do not touch the spine of the back.

They are quite unprovided with cushions, in the place of which, the back

of the horse is covered with four ells of woollen cloth, folded up

together, and on this, by way of harness, they place the horsecloth of

softish leather, variously embossed and adorned with figures. All this

is placed beneath the saddle, that it may not hurt the horse's back, on

which, that the rider may sit the easier, is placed a sheep's skin, or

an ornamented horsecloth of sheep's wool, died of various colours. The

saddles are fastened on the horse's back, not with a hempen girth, but

with a thong of cow's leather, so that there is no need of buckles. The

wooden stirrups, curiously carved, and plated with silver, in use

amongst the better sort of people, are called by the Spaniards _baules_,

baskets; for they really are little baskets, entirely inclosing the

rider's feet, and covering, and defending them against the injuries of

the weather and the road. But if the horse fall suddenly, and throw his

rider, stirrups of this kind are very dangerous, as it is more difficult

to extricate the foot quickly from them than from those of Europe. The

stirrups which the Spanish peasants, who never wear shoes, make use of,

are likewise made of wood, but the opening is so small that nothing but

the great toe can be inserted into it. The savages, according to the

custom of their ancestors, do not use stirrups, and most of them are

unfurnished with saddles even. The Paraguayrian bridles, also, differ

from those of our country in size and shape. The Indians make use of a

bridle composed of transverse spikes of cow's horn, like a hurdle, which

fills the whole mouth of the horse. The spurs of the Spaniards are very

large, and furnished with pegs, with which they rather bruise, than

prick, the sides of the horse. They abhor the small sharp European

spurs, with which they think that horses are easily wounded and

infuriated. This is the whole furniture used for horses, in Paraguay. I

will now give you some account of their diseases, and the remedies for

them.

It frequently happens that the friction of a rough horsecloth, or the

hardness or compression of the saddle galls the back of the horse; and

if, after long fatigue, his horsecloth be taken off, whilst he is still

smoking with sweat, it is swelled by the sudden admission of the cold

air, or of rain, till the tumour by degrees grows into a wound. The

ulcerated and bloody flesh is quickly infested by swarms of flies, the

eggs and filth of which ingender white worms. Delay is dangerous; for

the worms increase rapidly every hour, and creep to the interior parts

of the animal. If you wish to save your horse, you must immediately dig

the worms out of his flesh with a small stick, and stop up the cavities

where those insects lay with chewed tobacco leaves, the bitterness of

which kills the worms, drives away the flies which breed them, and

prevents the progress of corruption. The scar must be anointed with

tallow every day, that fresh hair may grow there. The Indians smear

their horses' backs either with the root _guaycuru_, well masticated

with their teeth, or with melted tiger's fat, or with the shell of the

_armadillo_ burnt to ashes; but these remedies seldom effect a complete

cure. From a book of Father Martin Szentivan, a Hungarian, on the

treatment of animals, I learnt a remedy much superior to any of those

American ones, and which has been successfully adopted by many

Paraguayrians. Salt, well ground, and mixed with vinegar and yolk of

egg, is applied to the horse's back once a day, as it cleans away the

blood, keeps off worms, and in a few days removes the swelling, and

renews the skin and hair. The same author advises the application of a

white onion, pretty well roasted. We ourselves have seen many horses

preserved by both remedies. Certain large birds, of various colours,

carnivorous, and of the vulture kind, may aptly be called horses'

physicians; for they perch upon their ulcerated backs, and are deterred

by no kicking from taking away the blood and the worms; though with

their sharp beaks they very often enlarge the wound. Bats, also, greatly

exceeding those of Europe in number and size, not only molest, but even

injure the horses. Vast numbers of them fly up and down the plain. They

sit upon the horse, and whilst they wound his back with their bills,

create a gentle breeze by the continual motion of their wings, lulled by

which the horse makes no resistance, and suffers his blood to be sucked

by the bat. The wound that remains, unless it be sprinkled with hot

ashes, soon swells, and by degrees becomes ulcerated, which clearly

proves that bats are in some measure venomous. Showers continuing day

and night, for many weeks, necessarily deluge the whole plain country

with water, and the horses can find no dry land whereon to place their

feet. Hence, from feeding so long, immersed in water, their hoofs are

softened to such a degree, that being unable to stand on their feet, and

to seek pasture, they perish, though perfectly healthy in other

respects. Sometimes horses labour under strangury, or dysury. A Spaniard

saddles a horse afflicted with such a disease, instead of physicking

him, and spurs him to a full gallop, till he is covered with sweat. Nor

is there any occasion to repeat the operation. A horse, which was in a

dying condition a little before, soon recovered, for he inundated the

plain. Sometimes horses are seized with convulsion of the nerves, or

with rheumatism, so that they cannot stand on their legs; on such

occasions the Spanish soldiers tie their feet with a rope, and lay them

on the ground, then throw plenty of urine on their legs, and kick them

several times with their heels; when untied they mount and compel them,

however unwilling, to run. This violent, but speedy method of healing, I

found, to my surprize, attended by the desired effect. As Paraguay

swarms with horses, in as great number as insects, she cares very little

about curing them when they are sick. In Europe, where horses are

scarcer and more valuable, we cannot wonder at their having many

physicians and many medicines. What if I should say that, in Paraguay,

both are unnecessary? For there it is plain that horses are afflicted

with less frequent and less heavy complaints; because they generally

enjoy their full liberty, wander up and down the plains at will, breathe

the pure air of Heaven, feed on the fresh grass, drink and bathe at

pleasure in running streams, are never employed in bearing burdens and

drawing carts, and are consequently more healthy and spirited than

European horses, which, during the greatest part of their lives, are

chained, like thieves, in dark stables, which resemble dungeons, are

obliged to fill rather than refresh their stomachs, with hay dryer than

a stone and straw harder than a board, taste oats seldomer and more

sparingly than country people do cakes, and endure frequent and long

hunger and thirst, sometimes through the dishonesty or laziness of

servants, sometimes through the avarice of their masters, who are more

anxious about employing than about feeding their beasts; not to mention

the continual annoyance they undergo from the putting on and taking off

of their iron shoes; and even the pain frequently inflicted on them in

this operation from the awkwardness of blacksmiths. All these

circumstances considered, instead of wondering that the horses of our

country are subject to so many diseases, I rather feel surprized that

one remains alive.

Mules in company with horses fill the plains of Paraguay, nor shall they

be separated in my relation. You will see many of them equal in height

to horses, but, on the other hand, the major part are less than those

which Italy or Spain produces. You may judge of the multitude of them

from this circumstance, that Paraguay yearly sends about eighty thousand

to Peru, in return for which she receives all the silver to be seen in

her churches and houses, with no inconsiderable advantage. For unbroken

mules, two years of age, valued, generally speaking, at three Spanish

crowns in Paraguay, fetch ten and often fourteen in Peru. Who can reckon

the number of mules, employed either in bearing burdens or in carrying a

rider, in the cities and estates of Paraguay? Many thousands of them are

constantly occupied in conveying the herb of Paraguay from the woods to

the cities, and numbers are yearly sacrificed both to the roughness of

the road and the cruelty of their drivers. I have known estates which

contained four thousand mules, and many more thousand mares kept for

breeding mules.

The young mules, at two years old, are taught to carry burdens or to

bear a rider; but being extremely wild, occasion their instructors

continual trouble and danger. However docile and obedient they may have

appeared in times past, you never can entirely trust to them. For as the

Spanish proverb goes, a mule will serve his master seventy years, that

he may kick him to death at last. Broken legs, bodies dragged along the

ground, cut hands, heads dashed against trees or stones, and other

accidents of the same nature, mournfully confirm the truth of this

adage. For mules, though stronger than any horse, though accustomed to

traverse woods, rocky places, and trackless plains, with both a firmer

and gentler pace, and though less liable to hurt their feet, are much

more to be dreaded by their riders, on account of their being constantly

suspicious of danger. All of a sudden they halt on the road astonished,

smell the grass, prick up their ears to listen, and with eyes wandering

in every direction descry the most distant objects. The uncommon colour

of a plant, a strange smell, the piping of birds, the rustling of trees,

or an unusual agitation of the leaves occasioned by the wind, fills them

with suspicions of the approach of a tiger, especially at dusk, or at

dark night. Presently, seized with sudden terror, they run away with

their rider, and unless he be possessed of great presence of mind,

either throw him on the ground or drag him along with his feet sticking

in the stirrup. The kicking of mules is very dangerous, on account of

its being so quickly and frequently repeated. These animals, therefore,

are never more to be dreaded than when they are themselves afraid, for

at such times they become unmanageable, and seem as if they had lost

their senses. As the trade in mules is lucrative in Paraguay, it is also

dangerous to the merchants, on account of the exceeding timidity of

these animals. Ten thousand mules, entirely free and without bridles,

are often driven, by a few Spanish guards, in one drove. At the

slightest alarm they all take to flight, hurry over the plain, and hide

themselves in interminable deserts, whilst no industry in the horsemen,

nor swiftness in the horses, is sufficient to bring them back again.

Many have been ruined by mules running away and being lost in this

manner.

I have been acquainted with men, in other respects brave and intrepid,

who, warned by the danger of others, resolved never in their lives to

ride on a mule. I have known many more, who, scorning the most excellent

horses, would never travel on any other animal. Neither is this

preference to be condemned, for mules, though fearful and treacherous,

possess many good qualities which do not belong to horses. Their pace,

especially that of the amblers, is easy and firm, by which means they

always tread with safety, whether they have to ascend rocks or to creep

over marshy places, though horses are better for crossing deep marshes

and rivers, on account of their height. One mule is sufficient in a long

and difficult journey which would fatigue four horses. Mules are

contented with the readiest and coarsest food, though generally fat and

sleek. Many of them surpass the swiftest horses in speed, as I have

often observed in the races of the soldiers. They are longer lived than

most other beasts. In the town of S. Joachim I had mules more than

thirty years old, which would bear a rider, and sometimes contrive to

kick him off too. Moreover they are possessed of athletic strength, for

they are accustomed to carry almost four hundred weight, in journies of

many months, through very rough roads, when laden with the herb of

Paraguay. In a word, I am unable to determine whether the virtues or

vices of mules preponderate.

By the right of relationship asses should be spoken of between horses

and mules. They wander by crowds in the plains of Paraguay, and with

their braying prevent the neighbouring inhabitants from the enjoyment of

sleep. In Italy and Portugal the ass is a very much employed animal, and

used both for the pannier and the saddle. In Paraguay they enjoy a

perpetual exemption from labour. In the larger estates great numbers of

asses are maintained for the purpose of breeding mules. The female asses

are less prolific than you would imagine, but we were never able to

discover the cause of their sterility. Asses continually fall a prey to

tigers, especially those kept to breed mules, which they prefer to the

common sort. No American ever accused asses of pusillanimity, for they

bravely repel any tiger, whom they see approaching, with their heels,

and defend themselves more pertinaciously than horses; but being here,

as every where else, stupid and dilatory, are generally vanquished by

the swiftness or cunning of tigers. The Spaniards also kill a great

number every year for the sake of the fat which they have in their

necks, and which is used, by tanners, to dress and soften stags' skins,

and for other purposes. In this vast abundance of horses and mules which

Paraguay rears, would not the most needy of the Spaniards or negroes be

ashamed to ride upon an ass? But in the territories belonging to Rioja

and Catamarca, where horses are not so abundant, the lower orders of

Spaniards do not disdain to saddle asses. By a useful edict we took care

to prevent the Guaranies from possessing horses, to deprive them of the

dangerous opportunity of wandering. Persons of both sexes made use of

their own asses to carry home the produce of the neighbouring fields.

But those charged with guarding cattle and other offices in the town,

always had horses and mules prepared and in readiness.

Paraguay also abounds in numerous flocks of sheep, no ways differing

from those of our country. Some of the Guarany colonies have counted

thirty thousand, others fewer, according to the number of inhabitants

and the size of the pastures. The wool was used chiefly for the clothing

of the male Indians, for the women covered themselves with a piece of

white cloth made of cotton. An Indian is never content unless he has his

belly well filled, and his body well covered; so that a number of sheep

and oxen seemed requisite to the preservation of these colonies, the

latter supplying meat for food, and the former wool for clothing. Sheep,

on account of their tenderness, demand greater care than the larger

cattle. Hence we were extremely solicitous to supply them with diligent

and faithful shepherds, whom we frequently admonished to bring the flock

at stated hours to the folds, which being furnished with a roof, though

not with walls, commodiously defended them against the night dew, the

heat of the sun, and the attacks of lions and tigers; not to send the

sheep into the plain till the sun and wind had dried up the dew;

carefully to keep them from marshy places, from the dewy grass, and from

thistles and thorns; for too much moisture affects sheep with a mortal

cough, and thorns tear their wool; and, lastly, to look about anxiously

for pastures abounding in nitre, wholesome grass, and plenty of water.

Shepherds should take great care to collect the young lambs, as soon as

they are yeaned, and remove them to a safe place, where they may be

suckled and licked by their mothers. Should this precaution be

neglected, they will certainly be crushed under foot by the old sheep.

It is also proper to see whether they are afflicted with worms, which

are often bred in the wool. It conduces much to the enriching an estate

to distribute the whole flock, consisting of ten or thirteen thousand

sheep, into lesser companies, and to assign to each separate folds,

pastures, and shepherds, that the care being divided amongst many, each

may perform his own office more easily and completely. By these arts the

estates of the Guaranies daily gained such accessions of sheep as an

European will hardly credit.

Something must now be said of the climate of Paraguay. The temperature

of the air varies in different places. Those which are nearest to the

south are colder. In the Magellanic region, which is included in

Paraguay, the cold is generally intense, the neighbouring mountains are

constantly covered with snow, the south winds are extremely violent, and

dreadfully agitate that sea, which is dreaded by all sailors. The

territory of Buenos-Ayres itself, situated in the 34th degree of lat. is

too cold for tobacco, cotton, the sugar-cane, the herb of Paraguay,

apes, and various kinds of parrots, to subsist there, though it produces

plenty of wheat, as well as citrons, peaches, quinces, pomegranates,

figs, &c. if the diligence of the agriculturist answer to the fertility

of the soil. I never saw any snow beyond the mountains near the province

of Chili. The year is divided into four seasons as in Europe, but in

different order:—whilst the Europeans enjoy summer it is winter there;

whilst it is spring in Europe, it is autumn with the Paraguayrians. For

with them November, December, and January, are summer; February, March,

and April, autumn; May, June, and July, winter; August, September, and

October, spring. In the month of August the trees bud, the birds build

their nests, the swallows return from their places of retirement. In the

winter there is no snow and very seldom frost, so that melons and

vegetables will grow up, and not be hurt by the asperity of the air. But

in the mountains of Taruma, three frosts succeed one after another. The

third, which is much severer than the other two, is always followed,

about noon the same day, by a tempest, accompanied with thunder,

lightning, and torrents of rain, which causes the herbs, killed by the

frosts, to revive, or fresh ones to spring up. The temperature of the

air varies according to the wind. The south wind is cold, the north,

hot: hence we often had winter and summer in the same day, whenever one

wind succeeded to the other. Nor is the difference of winter fixed and

certain. For some countries, Brazil for instance, are afflicted with

continual rain at that season, whilst others are distressed by long

droughts, lasting many months, as is the case with the territory of St.

Iago del Estero. Thunderstorms are not peculiar, as in Europe, to the

summer season, but are common to every part of the year: nor can it ever

be said that this or that month, though a winter one, will be free from

thunder, lightning, and hail. The heat of the sun is excessively painful

to horses in travelling, but often more endurable to them when resting

in the shade, than in Austria during the hottest part of the summer.

That the cold in winter is not very intense you may collect from this

circumstance, that the Indians of both sexes and of every age are

accustomed to endure it, without danger of any bad consequence, with

naked feet, uncovered heads, and no other clothing than a thin piece of

linen, and that the animals remain out of doors day and night. I do not

deny that the Indians sometimes use cloaks made of otters' skins to

defend them against the cold air. The shortest day with the

Paraguayrians is in the month of June, the summer solstice in Europe.

The sun rises at the sixth hour and fifty-second minute, and sets at the

fifth hour and seventh minute. Their longest day is in the month of

December, our winter solstice. The sun rises at the fifth hour and

seventh minute, and sets at the sixth hour and fifty-second minute. I

speak of that part of the sky under which lie the Guarany colonies

situated in the 24th, 25th, 26th, 27th, 28th, and 29th degrees of

latitude. From which it appears that there is no day in Paraguay so long

or so short as in our Germany. The air of so extensive a province is

necessarily various, but for the most part extremely healthful, and

calculated to induce longevity.

A history may justly be called defective, if it do not slightly touch

upon what is most worthy of note in the wild beasts, amphibious animals,

birds, fishes, plants, trees, and their fruit. We will begin with

quadrupeds. The tiger appears first on the scene.