CHAPTER IX.

THE TYROL.

MIGRATIONS OF THE TYROLESE--THEIR FRANKNESS--THEIR ATTACHMENT TO

THE HOUSE OF AUSTRIA--ANECDOTE OF THE ARCHDUCHESS

ELIZABETH--LITERARY TURN OF THE TYROLESE--THEIR EXTRAORDINARY

HONESTY--FONDNESS FOR PUGILISTIC EXERCISES AND THE

CHASE--ANCIENT PRACTICE--MORAL

CHARACTER--SUPERSTITION--MECHANICAL GENIUS--PERSONS AND

COSTUMES--NATIONAL SONGS--CUSTOM OF VISITING THE GRAVES OF

RELATIONS--MARRIAGE CEREMONIES OF THE TYROLESE.

The most striking feature in the character of the Tyrolese is their

love of independence and their attachment to their native land. The

intense cold, however, that prevails in the elevated valleys, in

general compels their inhabitants to quit them in winter, when they

repair to the neighbouring towns to pursue their different

professions. Thus villages, nay even whole valleys are at times nearly

deserted, except by the aged men, the women and the children. At

stated periods, therefore, these mountaineers emigrate in bodies of

thirty or forty, and spread themselves over Italy, Bavaria, and

Austria. Some of them become excellent carpenters, others skilful

smiths, and it is seldom that they do not follow more than one trade.

They are particularly addicted to the mechanical arts. The young lads

hire themselves to tend cattle. On the return of summer and the

approach of harvest-time, these mountaineers set out for their

respective hamlets, joyfully carrying with them their little savings.

They collect in companies and march to the sound of the bagpipe, which

at a distance announces their coming. All run out to meet them, and

they rarely pass through a village without being supplied with

refreshments. In this manner they travel forward till they reach their

humble homes, where they forget their hardships and fatigues in the

affectionate embraces of their wives, children and relations.

The industry of the Tyrolese does not suffer them to be content with

these migrations occasioned by the inclemency of the climate. They

travel all over Germany with aromatic and medicinal plants, carpets,

gloves, chamois-skins, steel trinkets, or wooden wares carved with the

utmost delicacy. These commodities they carry chiefly to Vienna, being

encouraged by the favourable reception given to them by the

inhabitants, who are delighted with their frankness and good humour.

The Tyrolese always speak what they think without reserve or disguise.

Like our Quakers they address every one, not excepting the emperor

himself, in the second person singular; and they question the

sovereign without the least ceremony respecting his intentions in

regard to their country. When these plans do not harmonize with their

ideas, they censure them with the utmost freedom. There have been

instances of their carrying their complaints to the foot of the

throne, and remonstrating with a liberty which to courtiers must

appear very extraordinary.

To the honour of the sovereigns of the house of Austria, it must be

confessed that any of their subjects may obtain a private audience of

them with less difficulty than in other states an interview can be

gained with a minister. If I were to select, says a British traveller,

from among the eulogies which have been passed on monarchs, the most

glowing traits, assisted by the warmest efforts of imagination, I

might not, perhaps make a deeper impression upon the mind of the

reader, than by the simple recital of the fact, that it is the habit

of the Austrian ruler to admit into his presence and to personal

interview every individual of his realm. One day in every week is

devoted to this sacred duty; when the emperor, with the first dawning

of the morning, attends in a private apartment to receive petitions

and complaints from the mouths of even the poorest of his subjects. He

listens to them freely, and though he seldom judges finally at the

moment, shows his sympathy and declares his feeling in their behalf.

The known frankness and intrepidity of the Tyrolese induced Austria to

grant them great liberty. Never, indeed, was government more paternal

than that of Austria in regard to the Tyrol. Hence all the inhabitants

went into mourning when the fortune of war transferred them a few

years since to another power, which, by its ill-judged measures, only

strengthened their attachment to their former sovereign. The struggle

which they made in his behalf against the united force of France and

Bavaria shows what exertions a nation fighting for independence is

capable of making, and will occupy a conspicuous place in the history

of those wars which have lately distracted Europe. The general peace

which put an end to these hostilities, crowned the wishes of the

faithful Tyrolese, and replaced them under the Austrian sceptre.

As the most trivial circumstances frequently impart a clearer insight

into the character of an individual or a nation than those of more

importance, the following authentic anecdote may be worth recording.

The archduchess Elizabeth, aunt to the present emperor of Austria, who

was so much beloved that the people of Vienna always called her

_Unsere Liese_, (_Our Bess_) took a particular fancy to milk with her

own hands the beautiful cows which she had collected at Schönbrunn.

She had heard the Tyrolese highly extolled for their skill and

cleverness in this operation, and therefore had several herdsmen

brought from the Tyrol, that they might instruct her in the milking

and general management of cattle. The first who arrived, seeing the

princess engaged in milking her cows, gazed at her in silence for a

few moments, and then burst out into the exclamation: “Get thee gone,

thou awkward baggage! why, thou wouldst not earn salt to thy

porridge!” After he had thus politely driven away the princess, he

fell to work and milked the whole herd in less time than the

archduchess would have done a single cow. During the course of this

extraordinary instruction, these men never could be persuaded to

soften their language or to use less frankness in their expressions.

So far, however, from displeasing by their freedom, they had some

difficulty to obtain permission to return to their native mountains.

The Tyrolese who travel into Germany, to carry on a little traffic in

drugs and peltry, have in general several partners. At any rate the

husband never goes without his wife, nor the brother without his

sister. It is very rarely that a man is seen by himself disposing of

his commodities. They have not failed to observe that the costume of

their women excites the curiosity of strangers, and they judiciously

avail themselves of it that they may find a better market for their

merchandise. When they settle at Vienna, almost all of them adopt the

trades of carpenter or mason.

A singular fact, and which serves to show the natural bent of this

nation, is, that there is scarcely a Tyrolese peasant but has his

library, however small. Though it contains perhaps no more than thirty

or forty volumes, still it affords proof of a fondness for study. The

Bible, the Lives of the Saints, a history of their country, or of

Austria, together with a few geographical works, compose the

generality of these rustic libraries. So strong is their hankering for

news, that many of those in easy circumstances take in the Inspruck

newspaper; which, in the long winter evenings, furnishes them with

subjects for discussion and comments, in which their own country is

not forgotten.

Theft and robbery are so uncommon in Tyrol, that locks are almost

unknown, at least in the villages. The doors of their habitations have

no other guard than the mutual integrity of the inmates. The peasants

therefore have merely a latch, which is raised by means of a bit of

packthread, and this method of closing the entrance to their cottages

is adopted solely to keep the cattle out of them. A hundred times,

says a traveller, have I stopped at inns where there was no key

whatever, and yet I never lost any thing. At Vienna, and in other

parts of Germany also, the Tyrolese bear the highest character for

honesty and integrity, and there is no instance of any of them having

abused the confidence reposed in him.

Such is their respect for the memory of deceased relatives and

friends, that they scarcely ever go out of mourning for them. A person

who should violate this custom would be considered as degenerate. It

is not uncommon to see a widow wear mourning all her life for her

husband, or a daughter for a mother. If this practice attests the

excellence of their hearts, the mourning assumed by them on account of

the misfortunes which befall their country equally proves the ardour

of their patriotism. When I visited the Tyrol, says a French

traveller, after the war in 1809, I asked a peasant why the people

were all in mourning. “Look at our towns,” replied he, “you see that

they are in ashes; and can you still ask why we are in mourning?” A

nation endowed with such qualities, cannot fail to be deeply

interesting to every enlightened mind and to every generous heart.

The Tyrolese peasants are mostly robust, and attach more value to

vigour of body than to beauty of form. From their infancy they addict

themselves to exercises best calculated to increase the strength and

suppleness of their limbs. Some, after the example of the ancient

Greeks, are professed wrestlers, and pursue the exercise with such

ardour, that if they were to neglect it for some time their health

would suffer. Hence they seldom pass a week without challenging other

champions, and they will go many miles either to be actors in, or

witnesses of such matches.

Pugilistic exercises have in consequence become an amusement

inseparable from rustic weddings, fairs and parish festivals. They

were formerly frequent in the vicinity of Inspruck, the capital of the

country; but the police took advantage of the quarrels which they

occasioned, to apprehend the combatants and force them to enlist in

the army for life: so that it is only in the remote districts that

they can indulge without fear in their favourite diversion.

The dress of the Tyrolese wrestlers is nearly the same as that of the

other villagers, excepting that they never wear either collar or

cravat, to deprive their adversaries of the advantage of seizing them

by that part of the dress. The rest of their clothes, indeed, affords

abundant scope for laying hold, as they have not yet adopted the

practice of oiling their bodies like the combatants of Greece at the

Olympic games.

These men have an extremely shrill war-cry, and are known by the

cock’s feathers in their hats, the number of which always corresponds

with that of the victories they have won. In regard to this point they

could not easily practise deception; for the man who should set up a

claim in contradiction to public notoriety, would become an object of

derision, and pay dearly for his usurped finery.

[Illustration: TYROLESE HUNTER.]

We are not exactly informed of the use of the thick pewter ring which

they wear on the little finger of the right hand, and which they call

the ring of combat. It is not considered fair for these wrestlers to

grasp their adversary with their hands; they strive to make him lose

his balance, to throw him down, and then snatch from him the feathers

which he has won in preceding contests. In the intervals of rest they

are furnished with a pipe, which they regard as an infallible medium

for recruiting their strength.

The chase is another amusement to which the Tyrolese are passionately

attached, and which they pursue from their earliest infancy. Each

village has a spot set apart for firing at a mark; and here boys begin

to practise as soon as they can hold a gun.

The hunting of the chamois, which is indisputably the most arduous and

difficult species of sport, since that animal frequents only the

highest mountains, is what the Tyrolese takes most delight in. Lightly

clad, having a large green hat to screen him from the sun, his gun

slung at his back or in his hand, and equipped in the manner

represented in the opposite plate, he traverses the deepest valleys

and climbs the most rugged mountains. Here he frequently passes

several successive days. A stick, terminating with an iron spike, is

indispensably necessary for supporting him on the steep acclivities of

the mountains. His game-bag, covered with velvet, serves him for a

pillow at night; it contains some provision, a small speaking-trumpet,

and a couple of cramp-irons to assist him in climbing perpendicular

rocks. Some of these men have been known to cut their feet on purpose

that the blood from the wounds might cover the smooth surface of the

rocks and prevent their slipping.

A very interesting custom formerly existed in the Tyrol. The

wealthiest of the peasants advanced to such young men as appeared to

be most industrious, active, and intelligent, a sum of money, to be

laid out in the productions of the country, and which were to be sold

or exchanged for foreign commodities. Sometimes the fulfilment of

these commissions required a voyage beyond sea. The agent, having

procured his goods, set out furnished with every thing calculated to

ensure the success of the enterprise. Having disposed of his

merchandise, he returned home, called together his employers, and

delivered to them the proceeds of the goods with which he had been

entrusted. Each took up the sum he had contributed, and the overplus

belonged to the young factor. This practice, now unfortunately fallen

into disuse, affords a strong proof of the integrity of these honest

mountaineers.

The Tyrolese has in general all the art of a man experienced in the

ways of the world, with the simplicity of a child, and in consequence,

perhaps, of the injuries done to him by foreign nations, he is become

more mistrustful. Still he will never commit a base action out of

resentment: his soul is too proud and too elevated to employ such

disgraceful means. If he attacks, it is always openly. Courageous and

persevering, he spares no exertion to attain his aim. Great in

adversity, he is not cast down by it; prosperity always finds him

proof against its dangerous illusions: his country and her

independence are all that he prizes. He cannot regret wealth, for he

possesses it not: he is a stranger to pleasures, excepting those that

arise from the relation of husband and father: hardships do not affect

his robust frame, accustomed to all sorts of privations, and inured to

the inclemency of winter. Thus from his earliest youth he climbs the

glaciers barefoot, and that he may be the more unrestrained in his

motions, he never covers his knees with any garment. Finally, the

first sports of his childhood consist in gliding from the tops of the

mountains in light sledges: an amusement which, were he less expert,

would expose his life a thousand times to the most imminent danger.

These people, so kind and so hospitable to the unarmed stranger, or to

him who needs their protection, are most formidable to the invader of

their country, or the violator of their ancient institutions. Bold and

skilful marksmen, accustomed to the use of arms and to the chase, they

soon become excellent soldiers, whose address is equal to their

courage. It must be confessed, however, that as regular troops, the

Tyrolese display greater bravery on the mountains than in the plains,

where they imagine that they have not the same advantages.

Faithful husbands and tender fathers, the Tyrolese have in general a

warm affection for their families: and lawsuits, or quarrels

respecting property, seldom disturb the harmony that prevails among

them. The simplicity of their manners is as remarkable as that of

their character, and a spirit of religion contributes not a little to

keep it up. Their devotion may sometimes go to the length of

superstition, but never to that of fanaticism. Besides, it cannot

prove dangerous, since it is confined to the belief in the existence

of spirits and malignant genii. This belief is chiefly current among

the peasantry of the elevated districts; hence the village girls dare

scarcely go abroad after dark for fear of falling into snares laid for

them by mischievous spirits. There is no sound, even to the rustling

of the leaves of the trees, shaken by the evening breeze, but

proclaims to their exalted imaginations the presence of ghosts. Thus

their superstitious notions animate all nature. To protect themselves

from the power of these imaginary beings, many Tyrolese of both sexes

engrave the figure of Christ, or of some saint upon their flesh, by

pricking it with a needle and rubbing gunpowder into the punctures;

and this they consider as a permanent safeguard. Some, however, who

are more enlightened or less credulous, adopt these figures merely by

way of ornament, a practice similar to the tattowing common among most

of the South Sea islanders.

The active and lively disposition of the Tyrolese urges them to

imitate whatever they see. It may almost be said that they become

mechanics by intuition; at any rate, no sooner do they experience the

want of any instrument, than they set about making it, and though,

perhaps, rude and clumsy, it always answers the purpose for which it

was designed. Thus at their summer habitations on the mountains,

however elevated their situation, you find small hydraulic machines,

which work the stones required by the herdsmen to sharpen their

implements, or to grind the corn necessary for their subsistence.

Sometimes they connect a moving wheel with the piston used in

churning. In another place you see a cradle rocked with a motion the

more gentle as it is produced by a fall of water moderated with art.

In short, a stranger who visits their country, perceives, at every

step, the extraordinary turn of these people for the mechanical arts.

In addition to the instances of ingenuity mentioned above, it is not

uncommon to find in the valleys of the Tyrol, painters, makers of

musical instruments, and other machinery, who, without any instruction

whatever, have produced truly astonishing things. There are peasants

who, in the long winter evenings, have constructed piano-fortes,

rather complicated instruments, and that merely from the notion

acquired by a short examination of one. Neither should it be forgotten

that the first good map of the country, which it is so difficult to

survey, was produced by a native of the mountains of Tyrol, Peter

Anich, a herdsman.

Considered merely with reference to their persons, the Tyrolese are

remarkable people. An expressive and animated countenance, bright

piercing eyes, and a tall robust figure, are the principal

characteristics by which they are distinguished. Their step is rather

heavy, owing to their habit of continually ascending mountains. Hard

labour imparts strength and vigour to their limbs. Their hair, almost

always of a light colour, falls in graceful locks over their

shoulders. A certain air of dignity, which admirably becomes their

masculine features, and their elegant costume, heighten the expression

of their faces, and set off the beauty of their forms. The hat,

commonly of straw, bordered with ribbons of different colours, and

adorned in a picturesque manner with feathers, is worn covered with

fine green silk by the single men, but generally black by such as are

married. A short waistcoat and jacket fit tight upon the body. Broad

braces, ornamented with figured work and crossing over the bosom,

support, what in this case may justly be denominated small-clothes,

since they seldom reach lower than the middle of the thigh. Stockings,

either plaited or embroidered with silk of different colours, show off

a handsome leg; and the shoes, equally light and elegant, are adorned

with ribbons always of a different colour from themselves. Gold or

silver buckles are sometimes worn in them.

Rarely unarmed, they are scarcely ever seen without a gun slung at

their shoulder and a goat-skin knapsack. At once a military and an

agricultural people, the Tyrolese are always ready to relinquish the

plough and the herdsman’s staff for the musket. To give a more

masculine character to the countenance, they shade the lips with long

and thick mustaches; and in some districts let part of the beard grow,

which gives a degree of fierceness and wildness to their look.

The females are rather fair than handsome: their persons are more

remarkable for strength than elegance. In general of a serious

disposition, their countenance, nay, their very smile, have a degree

of gravity, so that the impression which they produce at first sight

is by no means prepossessing. Their costume has frequently an elegance

and a lightness that are extremely becoming. Green or black hats

bordered with ribbons of different colours, and a velvet cap, compose

their winter head-dress. In summer they let their long light tresses

flow over their shoulders, or turn them up and fasten them at the back

of the head with long pins. A corset laced before covers the bosom,

and on this part of their dress they bestow particular pains, some

decorating it with lace, and others working upon it a variety of

designs in silk of different colours. Short petticoats, seldom

reaching to the middle of the leg, are remarkable in general for their

lively colours and their numerous plaits, which, however, are so

disposed as not to hide the contours of the body. Stockings of a light

colour, set off by embroidered clocks, have an elegant and graceful

appearance.

In some of the mountainous districts, the women, in order to be the

less encumbered in their laborious occupations, have adopted the use

of drawers with such scanty petticoats as to fall considerably short

of the knee. Out of mere singularity, they load their legs with

stockings, so plaited, as to give them a clumsy appearance. These

stockings, being too thick to be covered by shoes, have no feet, so

that the ankles are left quite bare. This practice occasions swelling

of the legs or pains in the feet; but nothing can induce them to

relinquish it, such is the influence of habit among all the nations of

the earth.

The colour of the dress of the Tyrolese is different in every valley.

The women in the environs of Hall and Inspruck, in general wear gowns

half black and half blue, which produce a singular effect. The head is

covered with a very lofty pyramidal cap, commonly of quilted cotton,

decorated with transverse stripes. In summer they exchange this

awkward head-dress for an elegant hat, and leave the hair loose.

The young girls have a remarkably simple costume. A ribbon tied round

the top of the head constitutes the only head-dress. The throat and

upper part of the neck are uncovered; but a handkerchief of

rose-coloured crape is fastened together over the bosom. A broad

ribbon passing round the waist is tied behind. A white corset with

sleeves, a short green petticoat, and scarlet worsted stockings

complete the dress of these peasants.

The women of this part of the Tyrol have such a predilection for red

and blue stockings, that they seldom wear them of any other colour.

When these stockings are not plaited, they load them with embroidery

and all sorts of whimsical figures. With the women, the stockings,

corset and girdle, are the articles in which finery is particularly

studied, as the hat, the waistcoat, and the braces are with the men.

The manners of the women of the Tyrol are gentle and sedate. Equally

chaste wives and tender mothers, they devote themselves entirely to

their household affairs and to the care of their children. Constant in

their sentiments, the man whom they once love is the object of their

everlasting affection. Kind to all around them, they are not shy at

the appearance of a stranger. On the contrary, when he approaches

their habitation the mother sends her daughters to meet the traveller,

and with engaging modesty they offer him fruit and present him with

flowers. When once introduced into the cottage, the whole family

throngs around him; the most delicious milk assuages his thirst, while

a dish of smoked meat is prepared to appease the hunger excited by the

keen air of the mountains.

Naturally quick and hasty, the Tyrolese prosecutes with heart and soul

whatever he takes in hand. His dances alone, by their irregularity and

vivacity, sufficiently attest the vehemence of his character. The

music which excites him to pleasure is so brisk, that he can scarcely

follow the measure. In short, these people cannot do any thing in a

cool and quiet manner: if they fight, it is with an ardour which never

allows them to calculate the danger; and when they indulge in

pleasure, they give themselves up to it entirely. Is the country in

danger? mourning is in every heart, and arms are in every hand: their

very apparel acquaints the stranger with their feelings and their

thoughts.

The national songs of the Tyrolese likewise prove the violence of

their passions. Always lively and gay, they frequently pass from low

natural tones to the highest sharps. From the expressions of these

songs, you may know that they belong to men wandering in vast

solitudes, and whose strains, crossing deep valleys, excite the voices

of the herdsmen on the opposite hills. It is to this wildness and

irregularity that the national airs of the Tyrol owe the celebrity

which they have acquired. What traveller, who has ever witnessed the

sensations they produce, could hear them without emotion!

The same man whom we have seen pursuing with such ardour, the innocent

pleasure of a rustic dance, listens to the truths of religion with

such profound respect, that in the attitude of devotion you would not

know him again, or be tempted to believe that he is animated

alternately by two different spirits. But that you may be able to

appreciate his sensibility, follow him when at the decline of day, he

leads his family from his humble abode to the tombs of his

forefathers. Bareheaded, with downcast eyes and the chaplet in his

hand, he walks first as the monarch of the family. Sometimes, indeed,

he leads by the hand the youngest of his boys, while the elder follow.

After them appears the mother, covered with a veil and surrounded by

her daughters, who learn from her that modesty is woman’s brightest

ornament. On reaching the grave of the person whose loss they deplore,

they all kneel down and pray for that eternal repose in behalf of the

soul of their friend, which will one day be solicited for themselves.

After a few short prayers, the eldest of the boys rises, and thrice

sprinkles holy water on the grave; all then strew over it flowers

mingled with their tears. A practice so general, and which is repeated

every day, cannot but have a strong tendency to preserve the

prevailing simplicity and purity of manners.

The marriage ceremonies of the Tyrolese are not less interesting. It

is seldom that young people marry from motives of interest, or in

consequence of previous arrangements between the parents. It is in

their walks, or at their rural meetings, that they become acquainted.

When mutually agreeable, they respectively promise faith and love, and

give each other their hand in ratification of this first contract.

This promise made in the utmost purity of heart satisfies the lovers.

Never is the chaste damsel of the Tyrol known to repent the

acknowledgment of her secret sentiments to him to whom she has avowed

them, nor the latter to take an improper advantage of this confession.

When once engaged by mutual vows, the young people have nothing more

to do than to acquaint their parents with the object of their choice.

It is seldom that the latter throw any impediment in the way of the

happiness of their children. The circumstances which too frequently

oppose the union of families in our polished societies cannot exist

among people who are content with the possession of a few head of

cattle and a few acres of land, for which, moreover, they have to

dispute with the snow on the mountains.

The lover, hurried away by his passion and his natural impetuosity,

warmly extols the qualities of his mistress, and spares no pains to

obtain from his parents an approval of the sentiments by which he is

animated. The old folks, naturally more cool, seldom decide at once:

but to satisfy themselves of the sincerity of their son’s attachment,

they put it to the test in various ways. These trials differ with the

age and character both of the son and of the father. Some send their

sons into Switzerland, Bavaria, or Italy, with various productions of

the country which they are to dispose of there, and to interest them

in the success of the enterprise they give up to them all the profit.

“Go,” say their parents, “earn thy wife. To be a good father, a man

must be able to get bread for his children.”

Not less dutiful as a son than ardent as a lover, the young Tyrolese

never opposes the commands of his parents. How painful soever it be to

him to leave his mistress and his beloved mountains, he departs, but

not till he has presented the idol of his heart with a pledge of his

fidelity in the ribbons that adorned his hat. He, moreover, places in

her bosom the flower which renews the memory of love, and which for

that reason is named _forget-me-not_. The damsel gives him in return

the girdle which encircles her waist, and in which she has secretly

embroidered the initials of the name of the favoured youth. The most

amorous swains do not quit the hamlet till they have played upon the

rustic bagpipe some plaintive ditty, to which their mistress listens

surrounded by her female companions, who are ever ready to share her

sorrows.

Other fathers subject their sons to trials of shorter duration,

sending them for a few months to the herdsmen’s huts on the high

mountains. Here the youths tend the herds and flocks, and strive as

much as possible to increase the produce from them by their

management. They also gather bilberries and the leaves of the spike

(_valeriana celtica_) which has such a delightful smell. These

occupations render them robust, and habituate them to fatigue. The

spike grows only on the tops of the second-rate mountains and on the

steep sides of those which are crowned with snow. This aromatic plant

is exported to the East, where its perfume is destined to delight the

voluptuous inmates of the seraglio. The roots of the gentians also are

collected on the mountains, and from these they extract the juice,

which yields a spirit that is highly esteemed.

The wealthier Tyrolese have recourse to other means to assure

themselves of the sincerity of the attachment of their sons. They take

them out into companies where they are likely to meet young females

worthy of their notice; but if the sight of fresh objects produces no

change in their sentiments, the parents no longer withhold their

consent.

The day on which the damsel’s hand is formally solicited, is a

festival not only for the two families but for the whole hamlet. The

Tyrolese in general regard each other as brothers. The father of the

young man arrays himself in his best apparel. Laying aside the jacket

suitable for working days only, he puts on a coat decorated with

ribbons of various colours. By his dress and the pleasure that

sparkles in his eyes, it is evident that he is going on a joyful

errand. He takes with him his younger sons, who carry baskets in which

his first presents are deposited. In one he places honeycombs, the

fragrance of which is heightened by the sweet-smelling thyme and other

aromatic Alpine plants, with which they are surrounded; and puts into

another the finest fruits of the season, not forgetting some cakes

made by a beloved daughter.

On reaching the damsel’s abode, the father is introduced by the uncle

or the nearest relative. Here he finds the family of his future

daughter-in-law assembled. All present rise and salute him. “Welcome,

my friend!” says the head of the family to him. “What motive brings

thee among us?”--“As thou art a father,” replies the visitor, “let me

put a question to thy daughter.”--With these words he steps up to her,

kisses her on the forehead, and thus addresses her: “God bless thee,

lovely girl, who remindest me of the days of my youth. I have a son;

he loves thee. Wilt thou make my declining years happy?”

The Tyrolese girls, equally modest and affectionate, can, it is said,

rarely find words to answer this flattering question, so that their

mothers are almost always obliged to be the interpreters of their

sentiments. The lover is then introduced by a young companion: he

enters, bringing the fruits of his industry and constancy, which he

deposits at the feet of his new mother, whose affection he solicits.

The kiss of peace assures him of the kindness of the parents by whom

he is adopted, and the first salute granted by his mistress bespeaks

the ardour of her love.

The young companions of the bride likewise receive a kiss from the

bridegroom and wishes for their future happiness. The most intimate of

her friends then conducts the bridegroom to his destined spouse and

retires; on which the spokesman of the family rises and begins a long

harangue on the good qualities of the young man. Though rarely

listened to by the young folks, who have much to say to one another,

he nevertheless relates with emphasis the various trials to which the

bridegroom has been subjected, and concludes with congratulating the

damsel on having inspired him with a passion so strong as to surmount

them all.

The young females then sing stanzas suitable to the occasion, after

which the company partake of a frugal repast consisting of bread,

cheese, fresh butter, and goats’ or ewes’ milk, together with a few

glasses of Meran or Brixen wine, or among the more opulent, of

Hungarian wine. This repast being finished, the youths escort the

bridegroom home with songs and the sound of the rustic flute. At dusk,

the bridegroom serenades his beloved with a plaintive tune under her

window, mingling the sounds of his voice with those of the bagpipe.

The wedding-day at length arrives, and gaiety pervades the hamlet.

From the general rejoicing, a stranger would suppose all the

inhabitants to belong to the same family. When the bride lives at a

village remote from the residence of the bridegroom, the latter

repairs thither, accompanied by a numerous party, demonstrating the

harmony and brotherly love which prevail among the Tyrolese. To

beguile the length of the way, the young lads stop now and then and

join in the merry dance. On reaching the place of their destination,

they repair to the abode of the bride, and while they enter, the

musicians play the nuptial air. The music ceases, and the schoolmaster

addresses a complimentary speech to the bride, who then delivers to

the bridegroom the ribbons for his garters in token of his future

authority. These ribbons the bridemaid attaches to his dress; he gives

her a kiss, and, according to custom, she embraces him in return.

The procession then repairs to the church, headed by the musicians;

next come the young men, and then the young women, who are followed by

the bride and bridegroom. The former is dressed in white, with a

nosegay of flowers selected by her lover in her bosom. She is placed

on his right, and is attended by her bridemaid, as is the bridegroom

by his man. Then come the parents and relations of the parties, whose

serious looks and grave demeanour form a striking contrast with the

wild mirth and frolicksome pranks of those who close the procession.

On reaching the church, a devout silence is observed by the whole

assembly. The service begins, but before the priest pronounces the

nuptial benediction, the young couple, falling on their knees before

their parents, receive their blessing. On their return home, they are

congratulated by their friends, who then partake of an entertainment

provided for the occasion. When this is over, the head of the family

rises, and after he has said grace, he offers up a prayer for the

prosperity of the new-married couple; to give a still more solemn

character to this pious ceremony, he pictures in glowing colours the

virtues of their forefathers. Nor does he forget to pray for the

parents whom death has snatched from them. The speaker resumes his

seat, and when the tears of affection have ceased to flow, the

cheerful songs of the young people awaken other emotions.

Impatient for the pleasures of the dance, the latter slip away by

degrees to the meadow or the room prepared for dancing. How desirous

soever the young couple may be to follow, they must not stir, till the

father of the family taking hold of the bride and the mother of the

bridegroom, conduct them to their companions. Here, seated side by

side, they receive the congratulations of the young men, among whom

the bride distributes flowers from a basket. By these flowers they

prognosticate their future fortunes. If the honeysuckle or the Alpine

lily falls to their share, they promise themselves extraordinary

prosperity. The periwinkle and the rhododendrons betoken a happy,

tranquil life; but the foxglove and the daphne are omens of

misfortunes and afflictions. The young damsels then come to express

their good wishes, and the bridegroom distributes among them ribbons,

the different colours of which are in like manner supposed to indicate

their future lot.

Next morning they do not fail to pay a visit to the young couple,

because they attach great importance to the possession of a few

flowers from the wreath that encircled the brow of the bride. To her

greatest favourites she gives the pins which fastened the wreath, and

these they regard as tokens that they shall be happily married

themselves. Thus does hope reign among this people of brothers, and

associate by propitious omens future happiness with present felicity.

Austria containing a Description of the Manners, Customs, Character and Costumes of the People of that Empire · 第 9 / 14 章