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VILLAGE IMPROVEMENTS

AND

FARM VILLAGES.

By

GEO. E. WARING, JR.

CONSULTING ENGINEER FOR SANITARY AND AGRICULTURAL

WORKS.

BOSTON:

JAMES R. OSGOOD AND COMPANY,

(Late Ticknor & Fields, and Fields, Osgood, & Co.)

1877.

COPYRIGHT, 1877,

BY GEO. E. WARING, JR.

FRANKLIN PRESS: RAND, AVERY, & CO.,

BOSTON.

The following papers on Village Improvements and Farm Villages are

reprinted, with some amendments, from "Scribners Monthly." These

constitute the more practical part of the book, so far as villages are

concerned.

It has, however, been judged appropriate to add to them a paper on

Eastern Farming, which originally appeared in "The Atlantic Monthly,"

and which continues the discussion of the question of village residence

as a means for mitigating some of the hardships which beset the lives of

isolated country families.

The wide-spread and growing interest in the topics considered makes it

seem worth while to give these short essays a more permanent form.

G. E. W., JR.

NEWPORT, R.I., June, 1877.

CONTENTS.

PAGE

VILLAGE IMPROVEMENTS 11

VILLAGE SANITARY WORK 69

FARM VILLAGES 114

LIFE AND WORK OF THE EASTERN FARMER 159

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE

FIG. 1.--DRAINAGE OF HILL-SIDE FOOT-PATH 31

FIG. 2.--SECTION OF ROAD WITH DRAINS 44

FIG. 3.--PIPES RESTING ON THEIR SHOULDERS 73

FIG. 4.--PIPES RESTING ON THEIR FULL LENGTH 73

FIG. 5.--GREASE-TRAP 79

FIG. 6.--FIELD'S FLUSH-TANK 80

FIG. 7.--THE EMERSON VENTILATOR 86

FIG. 8.--DIAGRAM ILLUSTRATING MANNER OF SEWAGE

DISPOSAL AT LENOX, MASS. 97

FIG. 9.--SETTLING BASIN 102

FIG. 10.--ARRANGEMENT OF ABSORPTION DRAINS, 105

FIG. 11.--DIVISION OF FOUR SQUARE MILES WITH

CENTRAL VILLAGE 124

FIG. 12.--DIVISION OF THE CENTRAL VILLAGE 126

FIG. 13.--DIVISION OF THE CENTRAL OPEN SPACE

OF THE VILLAGE 131

FIG. 14.--PRESENT DIVISION AND SETTLEMENT OF

TRACT IN RHODE ISLAND 133

FIG. 15.--THE RHODE ISLAND TRACT WITH ITS

BUILDINGS GATHERED TOGETHER INTO A COMPACT

VILLAGE 135

FIG. 16.--PROPOSED ARRANGEMENT OF THE RHODE

ISLAND FARM VILLAGE 139

VILLAGE IMPROVEMENTS.

It may be because the newness of our country and the fragile character

of our early structures have prevented the accumulation of inferior,

ugly, and uncomfortable houses, as the nucleus around which later

building has crystallized; it may be from circumstances which have

prevented the isolated residence of the better classes of our people; or

it may be the result of accident. Whatever the reason, it is beyond

dispute that the United States is _par excellence_ a land of beautiful

villages. North, south, east, and west, there are plenty of hideous

conglomerations of poor-looking houses, with an absence of every element

of beauty; but there are thousands of other villages scattered all over

the land, which are full of the evidences of good taste in their

regulation and in their management.

As a rule, these more attractive features are very much modified by the

presence of badly-kept private places or neglected public buildings, and

by a general air of untidiness. Still, the foundation of attractiveness

is there; and nothing is needed beyond a well-organized and well-guided

control of public sentiment, to remove or to hide the more objectionable

features, and to permit such beauty as the village may possess to

manifest itself.

The real elements of beauty in a village are not fine houses, costly

fences, paved roadways, geometrical lines, mathematical grading, nor any

obviously costly improvements. They are, rather, cosiness, neatness,

simplicity, and that homely air that grows from these and from the

presence of a home-loving people.

To state the case tersely, the shiftless village is a hideous village,

while the charm which we often realize without analyzing it comes of

affectionate care and attention.

There are villages in New England, in Western New York, and all over the

West, even to the far side of Arkansas, which impress the visitor at

once as being homelike and full of sociability and kindliness; which

delight him, and lead him almost to wish that his own lot had been cast

within their shades. These are chiefly villages where the evidences of

public and private care predominate, or are at least conspicuous. A

critical examination would, in almost every case, develop very serious

evidence of neglect, unwholesomeness, and bad neighborhood.

Within a few years, beginning, I believe, in Massachusetts, the more

thoughtful of those whose affections are centred in their village homes

have united in organized efforts to make their villages more tidy, to

interest all classes of society in attention to those little details the

neglect of which is fatal, and to make the village, what it certainly

should be, an expression of the interest of its people in their homes

and in the surroundings of their daily life.

The first of these associations of which I have any knowledge (though,

as such work is unobtrusive, there may have been many before it) was the

"Laurel Hill Association" of Stockbridge, Mass. It takes its name from a

wooded knoll in the centre of the village, which had been dedicated to

public use. The first object of the association was to convert this

knoll into a village park. Then they took in hand the village

burial-ground, which was put in proper condition and suitably surrounded

with hedge and railing. Then the broad village street was properly

graded and drained, and agreeable walks were made at its sides.

Incidentally to this, the people living along both sides of the streets

were encouraged to do what they could to give it an appropriate setting

by putting their own premises into tasteful condition and maintaining

them so. The organization worked well, and accomplished good results.

The Rev. N. P. Eggleston, formerly of Stockbridge, in a paper on village

improvements written for the "New York Tribune," thus describes the

collateral work and influences of the Laurel Hill Association:--

"Next followed the planting of trees by the roadside wherever trees

were lacking. The children, sometimes disposed in their

thoughtlessness to treat young trees too rudely, were brought in as

helpers of the association, while at the same time put under a

beneficial culture for themselves. Any boy who would undertake to

watch and care for a particular tree for two years was rewarded by

having the tree called by his name. Other children were paid for

all the loose papers and other unsightly things which they would

pick up and remove from the street.

"Gradually the work of the association extended. It soon took in

hand the streets connected with the main street. Year by year it

pushed out walks from the centre of the village toward its outer

borders; year by year it extended its line of trees in the same

manner; and year by year there has been a marked improvement in the

aspect of the village. Little by little, and in many nameless ways,

the houses and barns, the dooryards and farms, have come to wear a

look of neatness and intelligent, tasteful care, that makes the

Stockbridge of to-day quite a different place from the Stockbridge

of twenty years ago. Travellers passing through it are apt to speak

of it with admiration as a finished place, and, compared with most

even of our New England villages, it has such a look; but the

Laurel Hill Association does not consider its home finished, nor

its own work completed. Still the work goes on. Committees are even

now conning plans for further improvements. By itself, or by

suggestions and stimulations offered to others, the association is

aiming at the culture of the village people through other agencies

than those of outward and physical adornment. It fosters libraries,

reading-rooms, and other places of resort where innocent and

healthful games, music and conversation will tend to promote the

social feeling, and lessen vice by removing some of its causes."

No one can drive through this beautiful old place without realizing the

effect of some influence different from that which has usually been at

work in country towns. One feels that it is a village of homes; that the

people who live in it love it, and that it has no public or private

interest so insignificant as to be neglected.

I have cited this instance somewhat at length, because it was the first,

as it is the most complete, that has come to my notice. In other places,

more serious work of improvement has been undertaken in the direction of

sewerage, gas-lighting, &c. In fact, the present writing was suggested

by frequent requests for information and advice on the more practical

parts of the subject.

At the outset it is to be said that the organization and control of the

village society is especially woman's work. It requires the sort of

systematized attention to detail, especially in the constantly-recurring

duty of "cleaning up," that grows more naturally out of the habit of

good housekeeping than out of any occupation to which men are

accustomed. Then, too, it calls for a degree of leisure which women are

the most apt to have, and it will especially engage their interest as

being a real addition to the field of their ordinary routine of life.

The sort of enthusiasm which has led to marked success in the Dorcas

Society and other organized action outside of the household, for which

American country women are noted, will find here a new and engaging

object. This, however, is only a suggestion by the way, and one which

may or may not be appropriate under varying circumstances.

If we assume, which is not altogether true, that the main purpose of

village improvement is to improve the _appearance_ of the village, we

must still understand that the direct object of the society should not

be alone nor chiefly in the direction of appearance.

What it is especially desirable that a village should appear to be is: a

wholesome, cleanly, tidy, simple, modest collection of country homes,

with all of its parts and appliances adapted to the pleasantest and most

satisfactory living of its people. All improvements should therefore

have this fundamental tendency, and every element of adornment, and

every evidence of careful attention, should be only an outgrowth of the

effort to obtain the best practical results. Costly park railing where

no railing is needed, width of roadway greater than the needs of the

community require, formal geometric lines and surfaces where more

natural slopes and curves would be practically better, elaborate

fountains or statuary out of keeping with the general character of the

village, (the gift of a public-spirited, ambitious, and pretentious

fellow-townsman,) and isolated examples, as in a church or schoolhouse,

of a style of architecture which would be more appropriate for a

city,--all these are obtrusive and objectionable, and are consequently

in bad taste. In so far as these or any other elements of improvement

are unsuited to the conditions in which they are placed, they are

undesirable; and it would be well for those having the interest of the

village in charge, to adopt an early resolution to accept no gifts, and

to allow no work of construction or embellishment, which is not, first

of all, appropriate to the modest character of a well-regulated country

village.

If every public building is sufficient for its uses and suggests no

undue outlay for show alone; if the roads and walks are such as the uses

of the people require; if the fountain suggests a tasteful ornament and

centre of freshness and coolness, rather than a monument of some

citizens liberality and ambition; if the village green or park is a

proper pleasure-ground for old and young; and, in short, if every thing

that is done and every dollar that is expended has for its object only

the improvement of the conditions of living,--then there will be needed

only the element of careful keeping to maintain always the best sort of

beauty that is possible under the circumstances.

No satisfactory result can be attained without organization. The work

will necessarily require much money and more time in order to avoid an

undue tax upon individuals. It is desirable, too, that, so far as

possible, every member of the community should be interested in the

work, and should contribute in labor or in money according to his means.

This general interest can be secured much better through the influence

of an organization in which all are interested, than by any individual

effort.

The association should become the distributor, not only of the moneys

accruing from membership fees, &c., but of contributions made by

citizens, or subscriptions raised by combined effort for general or

specific works of improvement. It should be, in fact, not only the

inciter of public spirit, but the director of public effort.

The precise form of constitution for such an association must

necessarily depend more or less on circumstances; and I sketch only as a

basis for discussion, the following form suggested by the regulations

governing the Laurel Hill Association of Stockbridge:--

ARTICLE I.

This Association shall be called "The Village Improvement

Association of ----."

ARTICLE II.

The object of this Association shall be to improve and ornament the

streets and public grounds of the village by planting and

cultivating trees, establishing and maintaining walks, grading and

draining roadways, establishing and protecting good grass plats and

borders in the streets and public squares, securing a proper public

supply of water, establishing and maintaining such sewerage as

shall be needed for the best sanitary condition of the village,

providing public fountains and drinking-troughs, breaking out paths

through the snow, lighting the streets, encouraging the formation

of a library and reading-room, and generally doing whatever may

tend to the improvement of the village as a place of residence.

ARTICLE III.

The officers of this Association shall be a President, two

Vice-Presidents, a Secretary, and a Treasurer, who shall constitute

the Executive Committee. These officers shall be elected at the

annual meeting, and shall hold their offices until their successors

shall have been elected.

ARTICLE IV.

It shall be the duty of the President, and in his absence of the

senior Vice-President, to preside at all meetings of the

Association, and to carry out all orders of the Executive

Committee.

ARTICLE V.

It shall be the duty of the Secretary to keep a correct and careful

record of all proceedings of the Association, and of the Executive

Committee, in a book suitable for their preservation; to give

notice of all meetings of the Association and of the Executive

Committee; to make all publications, and to give all public and

private notices ordered by the Executive Committee, and to attend

to all the correspondence of the Association.

ARTICLE VI.

It shall be the duty of the Treasurer to keep the funds of the

Association, and to make such disbursements as may be ordered by

the Executive Committee.

ARTICLE VII.

It shall be the duty of the Executive Committee to manage all the

affairs of the Association, to employ all laborers, to make all

contracts, to expend all moneys, and generally to direct and

superintend all improvements which in their discretion, and with

the means at their command, will best serve the public interest.

The Executive Committee shall hold a meeting at least once in each

month, and as much oftener as they may deem expedient.

The Executive Committee shall have power to institute premiums to

be awarded for planting and protecting ornamental trees, and for

doing such other acts as may seem to them worthy of such

encouragement. They shall also encourage frequent public meetings

of the Association and of citizens generally, both with a view to

maintain an interest in their work, and for the general

encouragement of the habit of meeting for discussion and amusement.

ARTICLE VIII.

Three members of the Executive Committee present at any meeting

shall constitute a quorum for transacting business; and the vote of

a majority of those present shall be binding on the Association.

ARTICLE IX.

No debt shall be contracted by the Executive Committee beyond the

amount of available funds within their control to pay it; and no

member of this Association shall be liable for any debt of the

Association beyond the amount of his or her subscription.

ARTICLE X.

Every person over fourteen years of age who shall plant and

protect a tree under the direction of the Executive Committee, or

who shall pay the sum of one dollar annually, and shall obligate

him or herself to pay the same for three years, shall be a member

of this Association; and every child under fourteen years of age,

who shall pay or shall become obligated to pay as before the sum of

twenty-five cents annually for three years, shall be a member of

this Association.

ARTICLE XI.

The payment of ten dollars annually for three years, or of

twenty-five dollars in one sum, shall constitute a person a member

of this Association for life.

ARTICLE XII.

The autograph signatures of all members of the Association shall be

preserved in a book suitable for that purpose.

ARTICLE XIII.

An annual meeting of the Association shall be held at such place as

the Executive Committee may direct, on the fourth Wednesday of

August, at two o'clock, P.M. Notice of such meeting shall be posted

on each of the churches and at the post-office at least seven days

prior to the time of holding said meetings, and a written notice

shall be sent to all non-resident members. Other meetings of the

Association may be called by the Executive Committee on seven days'

notice as above prescribed.

ARTICLE XIV.

At the annual meeting, the Executive Committee shall report the

amount of money received during the year, and the source from which

it has been received; the amount of money expended during the year,

and the objects for which it has been expended; the number of trees

planted at the cost of the Association; the number planted by

individuals, with the location, the kind of tree, and the name of

the planter; and generally all of the acts of the Committee. This

report shall be entered on the record of the Association.

ARTICLE XV.

Any person who shall plant a tree under the direction of the

Executive Committee, and shall protect it for five years, shall be

entitled to have such tree known forever by his or her name.

ARTICLE XVI.

This Constitution may be amended by the Executive Committee with

the approval of the majority of the members present at any annual

meeting of the Association, or at any special meeting, the notice

of which shall have been accompanied by a copy of the proposed

amendment, with the statement that the amendment is to be voted on

at such meeting.

I have provided, in the above draft of a constitution, for an executive

committee of only five members; for the reason that, while it will be

comparatively easy to secure the services of this number, the duties and

responsibilities of a larger committee would be so distributed that

there would be too often occasion for the application of the old adage:

"What is everybody's business is nobody's business." The Laurel Hill

Association has an executive committee of fifteen, in addition to seven

officers. This large committee (twenty-two) serves to secure the

interest of a larger number of citizens; but the same thing may be as

well accomplished by inviting the co-operation of citizens in the work

of sub-committees, the chairman of each of which would be a member of

the regular executive committee. In Easthampton, Mass., there is a board

of fourteen directors, and there are committees on sanitary matters, on

setting out trees, on sidewalks and hitching-posts, &c. It would be

prudent to restrict the number of members of these sub-committees to

three; one from the executive committee and two from outside.

Besides special executive work, a vast deal has been done wherever

improvement societies have been organized, in the way of stimulating

citizens to adorn their private grounds, or at least to keep their

grounds and fences in good order, removing weeds and rubbish from the

sidewalk, keeping the grass well trimmed and free from litter and

leaves. What most detracts from the good appearance of any village is

the slovenly look which comes from badly hung gates, crooked fences,

absent pickets, and general shiftlessness about private places; and it

is by encouraging citizens to take a pride in attention to these minor

details, that the association will do its best work. This result may be

accomplished almost entirely without the expenditure of money. It is in

attention to little things and in securing the co-operation of private

owners,--a co-operation which will call for an inappreciable amount of

labor,--that the most telling work of the officers of the society is to

be done.

So far as these details are concerned, it is hardly necessary in a paper

of this sort to do more than to call attention to them. They are within

the capacity of every citizen, and they will naturally suggest

themselves to any person who would be likely to undertake the direction

of an improvement association. There are other and really more important

objects looking to a certain amount of landscape gardening and

engineering, on which specific instruction may be desired, and often in

cases where it will be impracticable to employ professional assistance.

These are as follows:--

1. The construction of sidewalks.

2. The construction and care of roadways.

3. The supply of water, and the construction of drinking-troughs.

4. The laying-out and adornment of public squares and other open spaces.

5. The establishment of a system of sewerage or sanitary drainage,

including the removal of excessive soil moisture.

SIDEWALKS.

No one thing has more to do with the comfort of those living in country

villages than sidewalks which are good at all seasons of the year. Those

fortunate villages which are built on a gravelly soil, with a perfect

natural drainage, need little more in this direction than such a

conformation of the surface as will prevent water from standing on the

footway when the ground is frozen. At all other times it sinks naturally

away into the earth. It is much more often the case that the character

of the soil or subsoil prevents a settling away of water, or that

subterranean oozing from higher ground keeps the earth throughout the

spring and autumn, and after heavy rains in summer, damp, and often

sloppy. Wherever the ground is of such a character as to prevent the

rapid sinking to a considerable depth of all excessive moisture, there

is sure to be a disagreeable condition of the footway whenever the lower

soil is locked with frost, and the surface is thawed. Even with the best

drainage, natural or artificial, this condition will exist for a short

time while frost is coming out of the ground; but with good drainage it

is of so temporary a character as hardly to justify any expensive

finishing of the surface, except perhaps in the case of the most

frequented walks.

To overcome occasional sloppiness where the difficulty is not

deep-seated, there is no cheaper nor better device than to dress the

surface with coal-ashes. Indeed, if these are used to a sufficient

thickness, they are practically as good as concrete or the best gravel.

When first applied, they are dusty and unpleasant; but the first wetting

lays the dust, and they soon settle to a firm consistency, and make a

very pleasant walk, with the great advantage of being entirely barren,

and preventing the growth of weeds and grass. If the ashes of a village

are collected and screened, the cinders being used at the bottom, and

the surface being smoothly dressed with the finer material, they will

make as satisfactory walks, even where the use is considerable, as any

other material. The color is unobtrusive, and the surface soon becomes

hard enough to bear sweeping. Those who are more ambitious for effect

may prefer a walk made of tar-and-gravel concrete; and this, if well

made, is good, durable, and satisfactory. So far as the improvement

association is concerned, it can find many ways for expending the

difference of cost between ashes and concrete, which will accomplish a

much more telling result.

If gravel can be obtained without too much expense, it may be used with

excellent results to a depth of from one to three inches, according to

the porosity of the subsoil,--more being needed where the ground is

inclined to become soft. In using gravel it is best either to screen it,

using the coarser parts below and the finer parts at the surface, or,

after applying it, to add a thin layer of earth, barely sufficient to

fill its spaces,--to "bind" it so as to give it a firm and solid

consistency. Loose and rattling gravel makes a handsome walk to look at,

but an unpleasant one to walk upon. Nothing is more agreeable than

well-trodden, dry, root-bound earth, as where grass has been worn away

by frequent use; but this becomes at once objectionable on being

saturated with rain or moistened by melting frost.

[Illustration: FIG. 1.]

It is a common impression, that all thoroughly good foot-paths must be

dug out to a considerable depth, filled with loose stones, and dressed

at the top with some good finishing material; but this is not necessary

even for the best work. The great point is to secure a thorough draining

of the sub-stratum, so that there shall be no rising of ooze-water from

below, and so that the ground shall be free from such saturation as to

cause heaving during frost. This condition may be secured by a suitable

draining of the ground immediately under the walk, and by the use of a

well-compacted and tightly-bound surface covering of such form as to

shed or turn away rain-water. Figure 1 (p. 31) shows the cross section

of a foot-path six feet wide on slightly sloping ground, where we have

to apprehend an oozing of subsoil water from the land at the highest

side. The centre of the walk is slightly crowning,--say one inch higher

than the sides,--so that rain falling upon it will flow readily toward

the grass-border at either side. To prevent the ponding of water at the

sides when the ground is frozen, the surface of the walk at its edges

should be well above the level of the adjoining ground; but it may be

necessary under some circumstances to furnish, here and there, a channel

or surface-gutter across the walk, to allow the accumulation at the

higher side to escape. Rarely will deep gutters at the sides be

necessary or desirable. If the walk is laid at a sufficient height to

turn water on to the adjoining ground instead of receiving water from

this, it will be easy to keep it dry. We will assume that the path in

question is to be made over a tenacious clay soil, with a considerable

oozing from the hillside,--the most unfavorable condition that can be

found, especially in cold climates. The first thing to be secured is the

cutting-off of the subsoil water from the hill. This may be done by

digging a trench as narrow as possible,--six inches will be better than

more, as requiring less filling material,--to a depth of three feet. In

the bottom of this drain lay a common land-tile drain, with collars at

the joints if these can be procured, and, if not, with a bit of paper

laid over the joints to prevent the entrance of loose material, and to

hold the pipes in place during construction. The ditch should then be

filled with cinders, gravel, or coarse sand. If stones are to be used,

they should be broken to a small size,--not more than one inch in

diameter,--and the loose bits should be mixed with them in the filling.

Very small interstices will be sufficient to allow water to pass freely

through, while if large stones are used, with large interstices, there

will be danger of a washing-in of earth sufficient in time to obstruct

both the stonework and the tile. The smaller the tile, so long as it is

sufficient for its purpose, the better; for lengths of five hundred feet

or less, an interior diameter of an inch and a quarter will be

sufficient; from this to one thousand feet, use an inch and a half bore.

If possible, before exceeding this length, secure an outlet for the

water in the roadside gutter or some other channel of exit. The

tile-drain, at a depth of three feet, will remove all subsoil water from

under the walk, and all that may be delivered into the loosely filled

trench at its side. The loose filling of the trench should not be

carried nearer than within six inches of the surface of the ground, and

should be covered with fine and well-packed earth to prevent the

entrance of _surface_-water which would soon carry in silt enough to

stop its action. Whatever covering is adopted for the walk itself, it

must be of such a character as to prevent any thing like a free

admission of surface-water. Concrete will do this perfectly; and either

ashes, or gravel dressed at the top with ashes, if well raked and rolled

at the outset to a smooth surface, will soon become so bound together as

to shed pretty nearly all rain falling upon it. The difference in cost

between a walk made in this way, and one dug out for its whole width to

a depth of two feet, and filled first with stone and then with gravel

and a suitable surface dressing, will be very important; and it is safe

to say that the cheaper will be at least as good and durable as the more

expensive method. In all construction of sidewalks, whether public or

private, regard must be had to the surface conformation, and some device

must be adopted for preventing the flow of water upon the walk from the

adjoining ground, and for the easy delivery of storm-water falling upon

the walk itself.

ROADWAYS.

The great expense of Macadamizing or Telfordizing puts these systems

almost out of the reach of small communities. Wherever the original

expense can be borne, the subsequent cost of maintenance will be so

slight, and the result generally will be so satisfactory, as to make it

always a good investment. The circumstances under which these costly

forms of construction may be adopted will be greatly extended if we can

overcome the prevalent American prejudice in favor of _wide_ roadways.

Against wide _streets_ there is, as a rule, no objection, though

exceptional narrow and well-shaded lanes have a rural charm that will

always commend them to persons of taste. A wide street, that is, broad

spaces between fences, by no means implies a broad roadway. All we need

in the principal thoroughfare of a busy village is such a width as will

allow of the easy passing of vehicles in the middle of the road, and the

standing of one vehicle at rest at each side. This will be accomplished,

even in the business street of a village, by a width of roadway of

thirty feet. Under most other circumstances twenty feet of roadway will

be ample. This will allow of the moving of three vehicles side by side,

and will give a leeway of six feet between two vehicles passing each

other.

On both sides of this roadway, except for the necessary sidewalks, the

whole space to the fences should be in well-kept grass, which is the

cheapest to secure, the most economical to maintain, and the most

agreeable to see, of all ground covering. It is not unusual in country

towns to find a width of from sixty to eighty feet devoted to a muddy,

dusty, and ill-kept roadway. From one-half to two-thirds of this width

is waste space, which must either remain an eyesore, or entail an undue

cost for maintenance. When both sides of the street are occupied by

places of business, it may be necessary to provide for some occasional

driving close to the buildings for the delivery of merchandise; but this

occasion will rarely be so regular as to cause any serious damage to

grass. If the line of hitching-posts is placed within fifteen feet of

the centre of the roadway on each side, it will be seldom that any one

will drive over the bordering grass, especially if there is, as there

generally should be, a well-defined gutter or well-kept grass with a

curbstone border at each side.

In considering the width to be given to roadways, it should be

understood that every form of road is more or less costly to make and to

keep in order, and that the cost of both items is in direct proportion

to the width. If to the cost of making and grading an ordinary roadway

sixty feet wide, we add the capital sum whose interest would be

necessary to keep this width in good repair, we shall have an amount

that would go far toward the construction and maintenance of a road of

the very best quality only thirty feet wide. Furthermore, while it is

impossible to estimate such items exactly, and while the amount thus

saved cannot be controlled for the road-making account, the saving in

the wear and tear of vehicles, and in the team force needed to move

heavy loads, constitutes an important argument in favor of the best

construction. The amount thus saved in the short streets of the village,

where the principal traffic is over rough country roads, would not be

very great, but it would enable the road authorities of the township to

realize the advantage of first-rate roads and the degree to which the

narrowing of the roadway cheapens construction. As a result, there would

soon be an extension of the improvement over the more important highways

into the country; where a well-metalled width of twelve feet would

accommodate nearly the whole traffic, and where the proper application

of a cheap system of under-drainage would make well-metalled roads

extremely cheap to maintain.

In the island of Jersey, there are many excellent roads only six feet

wide. These are provided with frequent little bays or turn-outs to allow

teams to pass each other. Although such extremely narrow roads are not

to be recommended, the difference in comfort and economy of teampower

between these and the average American dirt road is enormously in their

favor. The widest roads in Jersey, leading from a busy town of thirty

thousand inhabitants into a thickly settled farming region where

business and pleasure travel is very active, and where "excursion cars"

carrying thirty or forty persons are constantly passing, are only

twenty-four feet wide; often only of this width between the hedge-rows,

the road itself being an excellent footpath for its whole width. Nowhere

else in the world is the rural charm more perfectly developed than in

Jersey, and no element of its great beauty is so conspicuous and so

constantly satisfactory as its narrow and embowered lanes and roadways.

This, however, by the way, and only as a suggestion, for the sake of

variety. As a rule, we may at least accept much less width than is now

usual for our country and village roads. Wherever it is intended to

build expensive stone roads, those having the work in charge will

naturally employ a competent engineer, or will at least appeal to Prof.

Gillespie's work on road-making, or to some other authority. Space need

not be given here to engineering details, which would require a lengthy

elucidation. There is, however, a sort of road-making materially more

costly at the outset than that now in vogue, but much less costly in the

long-run, if we consider the element of practical value and the cost of

maintenance. It depends more on fundamental principles of construction

than on special processes of finishing, and will be more or less

satisfactory according to the character of the soil and of the covering

material available.

The great enemy of all roads is excessive moisture; and the chief

purpose of all methods of improvement is to get rid of this, or to

counteract its effect. As in the case of foot-paths, wherever the porous

character of the subsoil, and the absence of higher-lying wet lands, is

such that no accumulation of water upon or under the roadway need be

feared, the greatest difficulty is at once set aside. Roads lying on

such a soil may be over-dusty in dry weather. When the subsoil is

temporarily impervious because of its frozen condition, they may become

unduly muddy, or, when the situation is such as to lead hill-water upon

them, they may be badly washed; but they are free from the great

difficulties that beset all roads which for a large part of the year

are underlaid by an over-saturated, compact subsoil. Where such natural

drainage is secured, no artificial under-drainage will be needed. In

many more instances, all that will be required in the way of draining

will be to lead away the sources of wet-weather springs, which break

through the road-bed and cause deep sloughs. Where incomplete or partial

artificial under-draining is needed, the need is absolute; and whether

we consider the durability of the road, or the degree to which its

traffic is interfered with by its wet condition, we may be confident

that every dollar spent in well-directed under-draining will be invested

to the very best advantage. The varying conditions of wetness, and the

different sources of surplus water, must be regarded in deciding

precisely how much of this work is needed, and how it should be done.

Details cannot be fully considered here; but as a general rule it may be

said, that where the subsoil generally is of an impervious character,

and where the road is more or less wet and weeping after long rains, a

continuous system of under-drains is required. If the trouble is local,

here and there in spots, and is obviously caused by the breaking up of

springs from the road-bed, such partial work may be adopted as will tap

the sources of these springs, and lead their water harmlessly away.

Gisborne, one of the best agricultural writers of England, put the case

tersely and well when--objecting to the system of circumventing

springs--he said, "_Hit him straight in the eye_, is as good a maxim in

draining as in pugilism." It is best not to pass up at the side of a

spring, and so creep around behind it to head off its water; but to

drive the drain straight through it, and far enough beyond it to tap and

lead away at a lower level the water which causes it. These drains, as

well as all others intended simply to remove subsoil water, and not to

cut off a weeping stream, are best made with common drain-tiles laid as

before directed, and covered immediately with well-packed earth. Water

enters an under-drain, not from above, but from below; that is to say,

as water, from whatever source, fills the subsoil, it rises therein

until it reaches the floor of the drain, when it enters and is led away,

just as water falling into a cask which stands on end flows off at the

under side of the bung-hole when it reaches its level. Even if the cask

be filled to the top with earth, the rain falling upon it will descend

perpendicularly to the bottom, and will flow off at the bung only when

the soil to that level has become saturated. It will descend through the

soil by the straightest course, and will raise the general level. It

will not violate the laws of gravitation, and run diagonally toward the

point of outlet, as seems to be the general supposition when the

perplexing question, "How does water get into the drain?" is first

considered. When we drive a drain through a spring and into the

water-bearing stratum which feeds it, we simply make it easier for the

water to escape by the drain than to keep on at the higher level, and

break out at the surface of the ground.

As in the case of the sidewalk illustrated in Figure 1, in cutting off a

continuous weeping or ooze from higher land, it is best to introduce a

vertical filling of porous material through which the water will descend

and enter the drain; but, excepting this single instance, all that we

need to do, so far as subterranean work is concerned, is to furnish an

easy and sufficient channel for the removal of subsoil water.

What constitutes a sufficient drain is something very much less than

what is generally supposed. In ordinary agricultural drainage, where the

lines of tiles are forty feet apart, a well-laid tile an inch and a

quarter in diameter is sufficient for a length of one thousand

feet--that is, it is sufficient to remove the water of filtration from

an acre of land. If laid with only an inclination of six inches in one

hundred feet, its delivery will be so rapid as to amount to more than a

heavy continuous rain-fall upon this area. In road drainage, the same

rule would hold true; but, as the soil offers a certain resistance to

the rapid descent of water, it is best to give a means of outlet at

smaller intervals; and for the best work in roads thirty feet wide or

more, three drains could be used with advantage. In no case, however,

need the size of pipes be larger than above indicated, if the form of

the tiles is true, and if they are well joined together at their ends.

Tiles of less perfect form had better be an inch and a half or even two

inches in diameter; but, as a rule, they should not be of a larger size,

for the reason that the amount of water that they may be expected to

carry will not be sufficient to keep them prop erly freed from silt

unless the flow is concentrated within a narrow channel.

[Illustration: FIG. 2.]

Figure 2 shows the cross section of a country road thirty feet wide,

with three lines of tile-drain laid at a depth of about three feet below

it. Except in case of necessity, these drains should have an inclination

of not less than six inches in one hundred feet. There is no objection

to their having more than this wherever the lay of the land permits or

requires it. They may often have considerably less in case of need; but,

the smaller the rate of inclination, the greater the care needed in

securing a true grade. The water of these drains should be collected

into a single drain, and led away at intervals of from five hundred to

one thousand feet. It may be delivered into a roadside gutter, or into a

collecting under-drain, according to the requirements of the situation.

It is now possible to procure drain-tiles at reasonable cost in almost

all parts of the country; and these are not only very much better than

any form of stone drain, but they are also much cheaper in

construction,--the labor of preparing and handling the stone, and of

excavating the wider trench that stone requires, amounting to more than

the cost of the tile, even with a high charge of transportation added.

Incidentally it is proper to say that where tiles cannot be had, a mass

of gravel or fine cinders, six inches wide and six inches deep, placed

at the bottom of the drain, and _covered with well-packed soil_, is

preferable even to broken stone or any other form of channel that would

permit of the rapid running of water and the washing into the drains of

even a slight amount of silt.

The removal of excessive subsoil moisture being secured, attention

should next be given to the surface of the road, which should be

finished with the firmest material at hand,--with the common earth of

the subsoil where nothing better can be afforded,--and which should be

brought to a true grade, with a _very slight_ slope from the centre to

the edge. For a road thirty feet wide, the elevation of the centre

above the level of the edges should not be more than four to six inches,

and the grade should be made on a straight line rather than on a curve.

If the road is made as flat as the turning-off of surface-water will

permit, it will be travelled upon in all its parts; while if it is

crowned to a high arch, as is often the case, it will soon be found that

the best place to drive is in the middle of the road, and foot-tracks

and wheel-tracks will soon form slight channels or ruts which will lead

water lengthwise along the road, and which will cause an undue amount of

wear and washing. A road may be actually flat to the eye, and equally

convenient for travel at every part of its width, and still have enough

lateral slope to cause water to run off from it.

It is especially desirable that no surface-water flowing from the

roadside (above all, when frost is coming out of the ground in the

spring) be permitted to run on to the road. This should be effectively

prevented by the formation of sufficient gutters, with such outlets as

will prevent ponding at the sides of the road. When it is necessary to

carry the water of the gutters from one side of the road to the other,

culverts should be provided; and wherever the slope of the road is

sufficient to cause water to flow along it lengthwise,--that is,

wherever the inclination is more than about one in fifty,--there should

be frequent slight depressions from the centre diagonally toward the

gutters to carry the flow away before it can accumulate sufficiently to

form a washing current.

If it can be done without hauling additional material, it is always well

to raise the road-bed somewhat above the level of the adjoining land,

and this may usually be accomplished by throwing upon it the subsoil of

the gutters. In no case should surface-soil sods or fine road-mud be

used for repairs. The most serious objection to the absurd system of

road-mending so common in this country lies in the fact that the annual

repairing is little more than the ploughing up and throwing back upon

the roadway of the soft and unsuitable material which has been washed

into the gutters.

What is said above applies especially to country roads; but it is

appropriate, so far as it goes, to the better-made and better-kept roads

of a village. In the case of these latter, except where the soil is

naturally dry and firm, some attention should be given to the

improvement of the surface; and it is to be considered whether to adopt

the expensive process of covering with broken stone road-metal, or to

use gravel. One or the other of these is desirable in all cases where

there is much tendency to sloppiness in wet weather; but any form of

artificial covering is so costly that the early efforts of the

improvement association will produce a more telling result if applied in

other directions. The necessary cross-walks may be satisfactorily made

with coal-ashes.

It is even more easy in a village than in the country, to have the

grades of all roadways so regulated as to shed rain-water falling upon

them, and to have them so furnished with side gutters so as to prevent

water from the roadside from running on to them. The simplest way to

effect this, and the neatest way too, is to make gutters outside of the

line of the road, say six inches deep and eight feet wide, these being

at once sodded or sown with grass and grain to give an early protection

against washing; made on such a shallow curve, they will afford no

obstruction to any system of mowing that may be adopted, while their

great width will give them sufficient capacity to carry away the water

of considerable storms.

The work of construction having been duly attended to, it is no less

important to provide for regular and constant care. Any rutting that

comes of heavy traffic in bad weather should be obliterated either by

raking, or, better still, by filling the ruts with gravel or ashes. If

such work is attended to immediately on the occasion for it arising, the

amount of labor required will be very slight; for it is especially true

with reference to roads, that "a stitch in time saves nine." If the

filling of ruts and wheel-tracks be done in time, the serious damage

that comes from guttering flows of water lengthwise along the road may

be almost entirely avoided.

The mere cleaning work of both the roadway and roadside grass spaces, it

will be easy to induce children to perform for slight rewards and

encouragement. The daily removal of bits of paper and other rubbish will

have an excellent effect on the general appearance of the village. In

the autumn the removal of the fallen leaves will call for something

more than children's work; but ordinarily this source of cheap labor

will be found sufficient if properly directed.

PUBLIC WATER SUPPLY.

Village Improvements and Farm Villages · 第 1 / 8 段