James Heddon, I believe, was the first to give us a practical method
for the control of after-swarming; however, the method could not be
absolutely depended upon to do the work, but was a grand step in
the right direction. Who knows, to a certainty, just when the first
queen-cell will hatch in the old hive—whether it will be 5 days or 15
days? A second swarm might issue before the old hive was ever moved to
its permanent stand, and again after it had been moved, on account of
the first cell hatching so late.
It was when I was busy making hay, when an occasional swarm would leave
me, causing much vexation in my mind, and many hours of deep study,
how I should overcome this difficulty; and it came, to my mind that a
bee-escape might do the work, so I attached one to a hive, at the first
opportunity. A 1½-inch hole was bored in the center of one side near
the bottom edge, and a wire-screen cone fitted in the hole, and the
entrance entirely closed; the newly-hived swarm was placed close by its
side, with the entrance just under the above prepared cone, and every
bee that left the old hive became an occupant of the new hive.
In three days an examination was made in the old hive, for I was afraid
that too many bees would leave the brood, and destruction be the
result. But, oh, how I was delighted! All was lovely still. In three
days more another examination was made, with like results, and still
another three days later, making nine days. Then I began boring holes
in other hives, and treating them as above, with the same results,
until all (60 colonies) that swarmed were in the same condition.
Some of the old hives were moved to their new stands in 12, others in
13, 14 and 16 days, the last being rather too long a time—14 days is
about right in my location. Then these old colonies can be given a ripe
queen-cell, or a queen, or the entrance be opened and left so until all
the young bees are hatched, when the entrance can be again closed, and
it will unite with the new swarm, and the combs will be empty. In fact,
you may have full control of the matter, as to managing against second
swarms.
The first two years I used the bored holes, covering them over when
through, with a piece of section tacked over them; but since then an
escape has been used at the entrance; however, at times the latter
would get clogged, causing some annoyance, and I now think the bored
hole at the side is best.
If the reader will carefully look over the back numbers of the BEE
JOURNAL, it will be seen that I have touched upon this point before,
but dare not recommend it as being entirely practicable. But I hesitate
no longer, but advise all who stand in need, to try and be convinced
how this plan lessens labor, cost and vexation of after-swarms; and
in my location greatly increases a crop of comb honey, and of finer
quality than it otherwise would have been.
Fear not that the new swarms will be overcrowded in numbers, and swarm
again, but furnish each new hive with starters below and full sheets of
comb foundation in all the sections above, and you will soon begin to
wonder whether it is best to "prevent swarming" or not. It is nice to
have wood-zinc queen-excluders, then all can be arranged at the time
of hiving—such as moving the partly-finished sections from the parent
colony immediately to the newly-hived swarm, and not have to wait two
or three days for the queen to establish her brood-nest below.
Welton, Iowa.
Making Sugar Syrup for Feeding Bees.
_Written for the American Bee Journal_