Civilisation once more--Paralysis--The Tinker Pass in
Nepal--Kindly natives--Mr. Larkin--Government Inquiry--Back to
Tibet--Final good-bye to the Forbidden Land--The return
journey--Farewell to Mansing--Home again.
[Illustration: MR. J. LARKIN]
IT was really wonderful how soon we began to pick up again under the good
care of Dr. Wilson and the influence of proper food and clothing. When I
saw my face for the first time in a looking-glass, I nearly had a fit, so
ghastly did it look; but I felt more like myself when I had shaved off my
beard of several months' growth; and, after the ever-obliging Wilson,
with a pair of blunt scissors, had spent a whole afternoon in performing
the functions of hairdresser, I began to look almost civilised again.
Clothes were a great nuisance at first, but I soon got into the way of
wearing them.
The injuries to my spine were severe, and gave me much trouble. At times
the whole of my left side became as if paralysed. Besides, I invariably
experienced the greatest difficulty in sitting down when I had been
standing, and in getting up when I had been sitting down. Through the
great strain they had undergone, my joints continued stiff and swollen,
and remained so for months. I could see comparatively well with my right
eye, but was unable to use the left at all.
When slightly better I made an excursion to Tinker, in Nepal, there
being a pass in the neighbourhood I had not visited. Having crossed into
Nepal at Chongur, I followed a course towards 86° (b.m.), until we came
to the Zirri River, descending precipitously between high snowy ridges.
Then I kept on the right bank of the Tinker River, first through forests
of firs, then among barren rocks and along ravines, the track being
extremely bad in some places. The general direction was 88° (b.m.) until
the Tinker bridge was reached, by which the stream was crossed, from
which point I travelled some three miles to 74° (b.m.), and arrived at
the Tinker village, a few Shoka houses perched on the slope of the
mountain, having for a background the magnificent snowy peaks dividing
Nepal from Tibet. From the village the track to the pass is easy, first
to 78° 30' (b.m.), as far as the Zentim bridge, two miles off, where the
Dongon River, descending from 106° (b.m.), meets the Zeyan Yangti,[40]
and, following the latter stream for another four miles, one reaches the
Tinker Pass, the distance between here and Taklakot being twelve miles.
At 106° (b.m.) I observed a very high snowy peak, the Dongon.
[Illustration: CHANDEN SING AND MANSING ENJOYING THEIR FIRST MEAL
ACCORDING TO THE RULES OF THEIR CASTES]
[Illustration: A TIBETAN TEMPORARY SHED]
Having seen all that I wanted to see here I made my way back to Garbyang
with all speed, as I was anxious to return to Europe as soon as possible,
and I travelled down to Askote in company of Peshkar Karak Sing. The
Nerpani road had fallen in two or three places, and rough shaky bridges
had been constructed across the deep precipices, one of which can be
seen in the illustration below. We met with a hearty reception
everywhere, and kindness after kindness was showered upon us by all
alike.
[Illustration: A SHAKY PASSAGE ON THE NERPANI ROAD]
[Illustration: VIEW OF ASKOTE--SHOWING RAJIWAR'S PALACE]
[Illustration: SNAPSHOT OF SHOKA VILLAGERS BEING ROUTED]
At Askote I was the guest of the good old Rajiwar, in whose garden I
encamped, and who bestowed upon me every conceivable care and attention.
Mr. J. Larkin, hastily despatched by the Government of India to conduct
an Inquiry into my case, met me there, and, though still suffering much
pain, I insisted on turning back once more towards Tibet, to help him in
his task. By quick marches we reached Garbyang, where a deputation of
Shokas, who had returned from Tibet, came to me, Mr. Larkin having gone
on ahead. Among them I noticed several of the men who had betrayed me,
and as I was told that there was no way of punishing them for their
treachery, I took justice into my own hands, proceeding with a stout
stick to teach them some idea of faithfulness, whereupon the whole
village ran up to get the fellows out of my clutches. Encouraged by the
Tibetans, the Shokas made some insulting remarks about Englishmen; so the
fight became general until, ill as I was, and alone against some hundred
and fifty men, I succeeded in routing them. The thing might justly be
doubted had I not been able to take a snap-shot of them as they fled
helter-skelter.
[Illustration: DR. WILSON, MYSELF, MR. LARKIN, THE POLITICAL PESHKAR, AND
JAGAT SING READY TO ASCEND THE LIPPU PASS]
Soon after leaving Garbyang, I overtook Mr. Larkin, and we climbed
towards the snows. We intended crossing over the Lippu Pass into Tibet to
give the Jong Pen an opportunity of being interviewed, but he refused to
meet us.
[Illustration: TINKER IN NEPAL]
All the same, to give the Tibetans every chance, we climbed over the
Lippu Pass. It had been snowing heavily and it was very cold. A Shoka had
only a few days previously been lost in the snow in trying to cross over,
and had been frozen to death. There were some twelve feet of snow, and
the ascent was by no means easy. However, after toiling for some two
hours we reached the summit of the pass, and I slipped once more across
the boundary into Tibet. Dr. Wilson, the Political Peskhar, Jagat Sing,
and two chaprassis were with us. The illustration in which Dr. Wilson
appears holding an umbrella to shelter himself from the high wind, with
Mr. Larkin and our ponies on his right, and showing also the pile of
stones and flying prayers placed there by the Shokas and Tibetans, was
taken by me on the pass. Having found a suitable spot where the wind did
not cut quite so furiously into our faces, we halted for a considerable
time and waited impatiently on the Tibetan side of the boundary for the
Jong Pen or his deputies, to whom letters had been sent, to come and meet
us; but they did not put in an appearance, so in the afternoon of October
12 I definitely turned my back on the Forbidden Land. I was still far
from well, but was glad indeed at the prospect of seeing England and my
friends again.
[Illustration: ON THE LIPPU PASS]
We returned to our camp, a few hundred feet lower than the pass, where we
had left our baggage and our men, who had suffered much from mountain
sickness.
[Illustration: MR. LARKIN'S PARTY AND MINE HALTING NEAR THE LIPPU PASS]
It was at this camp that the accompanying photograph, which represents me
bathing at 16,300 feet, was taken by Mr. Larkin. Chanden Sing, having
broken the ice in a stream, poured water from a brass vessel over me,
standing, with my feet on snow, in a high wind and with the temperature
at 12° Fahr. I reproduce it to show that even in my reduced condition I
was able to stand an unusual degree of cold. As a matter of fact, the
water that had been taken from under the ice immediately froze on my
shoulders, with the result that in a second I had icicles hanging on each
side of my neck and a shawl of ice over my shoulders.
[Illustration: MR. LARKIN LOOKING OUT FOR THE JONG PEN FROM THE LIPPU
PASS]
Having fulfilled our mission, Mr. Larkin and I returned by very quick
marches to Almora; and it was a great satisfaction to me that in
conducting the Government Inquiry in an open Court, Mr. Larkin was able
to obtain ample testimony from Shokas and Tibetans as to my treatment,
all of which was duly reported to the Government of India, and also to
the Foreign Office and India Office in London. A copy of the Inquiry and
Government Report will be found in the Appendix.
[Illustration: BATHING AT 16,300 FEET]
[Illustration: DHARCHULA. DESERTED HABITATIONS OF SHOKAS]
[Illustration: "I TOLD YOU," EXCLAIMED THE OLD SAVAGE, "THAT WHOEVER
VISITS THE HOME OF THE RAOTS WILL HAVE MISFORTUNE"]
Winter setting in, the Shokas, who had by now all returned from Tibet,
were beginning to migrate to their winter homes at Dharchula, and when we
passed the settlement many were already at work repairing the fallen-down
roofs of their hibernal habitations. A large number of Tibetans with
their sheep had also come over to winter in British territory, and their
encampments could be seen all along the road wherever there was
sufficient grass for their flocks. The Tibetans--Lamas and
officials--maintained a high-handed and insolent demeanour as long as we
were in Bhot, which they regarded as part of their own country; a fact
observed not only by Dr. Wilson and the Political Peskhar, who travelled
with us up to the frontier and back, as far as Askote, but also by Mr.
Larkin, who more than once was astounded at the impudence of Tibetans
when on British soil. It must, however, be said for them that the moment
they had come out of Bhot, and had to deal with Hindoos instead of
Shokas, their manner changed considerably. Hypocritical deference and
servility replaced haughtiness and insolence. Near the frontier we
encountered hundreds of yaks and ponies laden with wood which the
Tibetans cut from our forests, and compel our natives to take across into
Tibet for the consumption of those Tibetans who do not come over to our
side to spend the winter.
At Askote the old Raot who had predicted ill-luck for me when I visited
the Raots' dwelling, came to remind me of his prophecy. "I told you,"
exclaimed the old savage, "that whoever visits the home of the Raots will
have misfortune," and I photographed the old scoundrel on the spot,
together with his mates, who listened with satisfaction to the words that
came from the lips of their prophet.
[Illustration: A PICTURESQUE BIT OF ALMORA]
We proceeded with no delay to Almora, and from there went straight on to
Naini Tal, the summer seat of the Government of the North-West Provinces
and Oudh, where a conference was held on my case by the
Lieutenant-Governor.
Having there enjoyed the unbounded hospitality of that able and energetic
officer, Colonel Grigg, Commissioner of Kumaon, I paid off my faithful
coolie Mansing, giving him enough for a start in life. He accompanied me
to Kathgodam, the terminus of the railway, and showed genuine grief when
Chanden Sing and I stepped into the train. As we steamed away from the
platform, he salaamed me affectionately, having previously begged that,
if ever I should go back to Tibet, I would take him with me; only next
time he too must be provided with a rifle! That was the only condition.
Chanden Sing, who remained as my servant, travelled with me to Bombay,
and from there we went direct to Florence, the home of my parents, who
had suffered in their anxiety at home almost as much as I did in the
Forbidden Land.
[Illustration: RAOTS LISTENING TO THE ACCOUNT OF MY MISFORTUNES]
[Illustration: SOUTH-WESTERN TIBET]
[40] Yangti = River.
APPENDIX
_Letter from_ SIR WILLIAM LEE WARNER, C.S.I., _Political and Secret
Department, India Office, London._
[Illustration: "_Honi soi. qui mal y pense._"]
INDIA OFFICE, WHITEHALL, S.W.
_August_ 4, 1898.
DEAR SIR,
With reference to the request contained in your letter of the
27th, and to your interview with me of the same day I forward
herewith for your use a copy of Mr. Larkin's "Inquiry and report"
into your treatment by the Tibetans.
Yours faithfully,
(Signed) W. LEE WARNER.
A. HENRY SAVAGE LANDOR, Esq.
* * * * *
GOVERNMENT REPORT BY J. LARKIN, ESQ., MAGISTRATE OF THE FIRST CLASS.
Mr. Arnold Henry Savage Landor having been reported to have been
captured and tortured by the Tibetans, I was sent up to Garbyang
in Byans to ascertain the facts.
Mr. Landor arrived in India on the 10th of April last. He
proceeded to Almora, where he arrived on the 27th idem. He stayed
there until the 10th of May, to make arrangements for his travels
in Tibet. At first he was advised to take some Gurkha soldiers
with him, but this fell through, as the military did not accede
to his request. He then, on the 27th May, arrived in Garbyang in
Byans _patti_. It appears to have been his intention to have
entered Tibet by the Lippu Lek Pass. This is the easiest, being
about 16,780 feet above sea level. It is the most frequented
route taken by the traders of Byans and Chaudans, and is adjacent
to Taklakot, a mart for wool, salt, borax, grain, &c. He was,
however, frustrated in this, inasmuch as the Jong Pen of Taklakot
came to know of Mr. Landor's intention and took steps to prevent
it. He caused bridges to be destroyed and stationed guards along
the route.
Moreover, he appears to have been kept fully cognisant of Mr.
Landor's moves through the agency of his spies in Garbyang.
Under these circumstances Mr. Landor was compelled to resort to
some other route, and selected the Lumpia Pass, which stands at
an altitude of 18,150 feet.
On the 13th July last, Mr. Landor, with a following of thirty
men, entered Tibet. He reached Gyanima, where he was stopped by
the Barkha Tarjum. This personage, however, after some
persuasion, consented to permit Mr. Landor and seven followers to
go forward to the Mansarowar Lake.
Next day the accorded permission was withdrawn, and Mr. Landor
and his party were turned back. The party returned three marches,
when Mr. Savage Landor determined to go to Mansarowar by the
unfrequented wilds.
On the 21st July, Mr. Landor, with nine followers, at midnight in
a terrific snowstorm, climbed up the mountain and went off, the
bulk of his party continuing their retreat to the Lumpia Lek. By
this strategic move Mr. Landor baffled the Tibetan guards
(Chaukidárs). He carefully avoided coming into contact with any
of the inhabitants, and in order to do so was obliged to keep to
the high mountains and unfrequented wilds.
Travelling thus, with the aid of his compass, sextant and sketch
maps, he reached Mansarowar.
Here five of his followers declined to accompany him any farther,
so he paid and dismissed them. This was at Tucker. Thus Mr.
Landor was reduced to a following of four men. He went on,
however, and had accomplished but three marches more when two
more of his followers deserted him at night. These went off with
some of his supplies, all his servants' food, and ropes.
Mr. Landor was now reduced to the following of a bearer (Chanden
Sing) and a coolie (Mansing). Despite his misfortunes he
determined to push on: his intention appears to have been to
reach Lhassa.
He went over the Mariam La Pass.[41] This attains an altitude of
over 16,000 feet.
Meanwhile the deserters had bruited about the information of Mr.
Landor's intention of getting to Lhassa.
While crossing the Nio Tsambo River one of Mr. Landor's yaks went
under. The yak was saved, but its valuable load, consisting of
all the tinned provisions, Rs. 800 in cash, three pairs of shoes,
one slaughtered sheep, wearing apparel, razors, skinning
instruments, and some three hundred rifle cartridges, was lost.
This accident was directly the cause of Mr. Landor's capture, as
he and his two followers, who were footsore, starving, and
disheartened, were driven to seek food and horses from the
inhabitants of the country. On the 19th of August 1897 they went
to a place called Toxem. The villagers received them well and
promised to supply them with food and horses. Next morning, the
20th idem, a number of Tibetans came to Mr. Landor's tent
bringing food and ponies.
While Mr. Landor and his servants were engaged trying and
selecting ponies, the crowd increased and came up behind its
three victims.
Suddenly, without any warning, the Tibetans rushed on Mr. Landor
and his two servants, and overwhelming them by numbers, made
prisoners of them. They cruelly bound their surprised victims.
Then a number of soldiers (who had lain in ambush) arrived and
took over the prisoners. The first person to be dealt with was
the bearer Chanden Sing. He was accused of having taken his
master into Tibet. He was questioned as to this, and also as to
the maps and sketches found with Mr. Landor's things. I may
mention that when the arrests were made the Tibetans took all of
Mr. Landor's property, which they handled very roughly, damaging
most of the things. Hearing the Tibetans accuse the bearer, Mr.
Landor called out that his servant was in no way responsible for
his having entered Tibet. Thereupon a Lama struck him (Mr.
Landor) a blow on the head with the butt-end of his riding-whip.
Chanden Sing was then tied down and flogged. He received two
hundred lashes with whips, wielded by two Lamas. Then the
prisoners were kept apart for the night, bound with cords. Next
day Mr. Landor was placed on a horse, seated on a spiked
pack-saddle. Mansing was put on a bare-backed horse. They still
were bound. Mr. Landor's arms were secured behind his back. Thus
they were taken off at a gallop towards Galshio. When the party
were nearing that place they came up with a party of Lamas,
awaiting them by the roadside. Here Mr. Landor's horse was
whipped and urged to the front. A kneeling soldier, his musket
resting on a prop, fired at Mr. Landor as he went past. The shot
failed to take effect. Then they stopped the pony and fastened a
long cord to Mr. Landor's handcuffs. The other end was held by a
soldier on horseback. The party then continued their career, the
Lamas having fallen in. While proceeding at full gallop, the
horseman who held the cord attached to Mr. Landor's handcuffs,
pulled hard at it to try and unhorse the latter. Had this
occurred Mr. Landor must have been trampled to death under the
troop of horsemen behind him. Thus they hurried onward till they
neared Galshio,[42] when at a turn in the road a soldier was seen
kneeling at the "ready," who fired a shot at Mr. Landor as he
came abreast of him. This, like the previous shot, missed its
object.
Arriving at Galshio, Mr. Landor was torn off his pony. He was in
a bleeding state, the spikes in the pack-saddle having severely
wounded his back. He asked for a few minutes' respite, but was
jeeringly told by his guards that it was superfluous, as he was
to be beheaded in a few minutes. He was then taken, his legs
stretched as far as they could be forced apart, and then tied to
the sharp edge of a log shaped like a prism. The cords were bound
so tightly that they cut into the flesh.
Then a person named Nerba, the secretary of the Tokchim Tarjum,
seized Mr. Landor by the hair of his head, and the chief
official, termed the _Pombo_, came up with a red-hot iron, which
he placed in very close proximity to Mr. Landor's eyes. The heat
was so intense that for some moments Mr. Landor felt as if his
eyes had been scorched out. It had been placed so close that it
burned his nose. The _Pombo_ next took a matchlock, which he
rested on his victim's forehead and then discharged upwards.
The shock was consequently very much felt. Handing the empty gun
to an attendant soldier, the _Pombo_ took a two-handed sword. He
laid the sharp edge on the side of his victim's neck as if to
measure the distance to make a true blow. Then wielding the sword
aloft, he made it whiz past Mr. Landor's neck. This he repeated
on the other side of the neck.
After this tragic performance Mr. Landor was thrown to the ground
and a cloth put over his head and face to prevent his seeing what
was being done to his servant Mansing. This must have been done
to make Mr. Landor believe that Mansing was being executed. After
a short time the cloth was removed and Mr. Landor beheld his
servant, with his legs stretched, tied to the same log. Mr.
Landor was kept for twenty-four hours in this trying position,
legs stretched as far as possible and arms bound to a pole, and
Mansing for twelve hours. To add to their misery they were kept
in the rain and were afterwards seated in a pool of water. The
effect of this torture was to strain the muscles of the legs and
arms and injure the spine.
When Mr. Landor's legs were unloosed from their cords, they were
so numbed and swollen that for sixteen hours he did not recover
the use of them and feared they were mortifying. Mr. Landor's
property was overhauled by the officials of Galshio and sealed
up. On the afternoon of the third day at Galshio, the two
prisoners were taken on foot to Toxem. It was a very trying
march, inasmuch as several rivers had to be crossed.
On his arrival at Toxem, Mr. Landor saw his bearer Chanden Sing
in a very precarious condition, as the latter had had no food for
four days. During all this time the prisoners were firmly bound
and carefully guarded. Next day, Mr. Landor and Chanden Sing were
placed on yaks. Mansing had to walk. Thus they were taken in the
direction of Mansarowar Lake. It was only on arrival at
Mansarowar that his guards unbound Mr. Landor.
Arriving at Dogmar the party was stopped by the Jong Pen of
Taklakot, who refused to give them passage through his district.
This was a very serious affair, as it meant that the worn-out
prisoners would have to be taken by a long circuitous route
_viâ_ Gyanima and into India by the Lumpia Pass. This would
probably have done for them. Owing to the intervention of the
Rev. Harkua Wilson, of the Methodist Episcopal Mission, _Peshkár_
Kharak Sing Pal and Pundit Gobaria, the most influential person
among the Bhutias[43] of Byans, the Jong Pen was compelled to
withdraw his prohibition and give his sanction to the prisoners
being conveyed to Taklakot.
Arriving at this place the prisoners were hospitably received by
the Rev. Harkua Wilson, who is also a medical man. He examined
their injuries and attended to them. His statement discloses the
dreadful condition he found them in. The Tibetan guards made over
some of Mr. Landor's property to him at Taklakot. It was then
found that much property had not been restored. Mr. Landor had a
list drawn up from memory of his unrestored property. This list
(a copy) was handed to the Jong Pen of Taklakot.
I append the list. The Jong Pen has been called upon to restore
the missing articles. He urges that the affair did not occur in
his district, and that he is in no way responsible for the loss
of the property.
He has, however, promised to try to recover them, alleging that
the affair has been reported to a superior authority at Gartok.
From what I could gather here, it seems probable that all the
missing property, save the money, will be restored. I tried to
see the Jong Pen, but he pleaded illness, and the inutility of a
meeting in which he had nothing new to disclose. This personage
is notorious in these parts for his implacable hatred to English
subjects.
The account of the affair as given by Mr. Savage Landor is fully
borne out by his two servants, and, moreover, the Tibetans who
took part in it did not try to hide it.
In the Rev. Harkua Wilson's tent at Taklakot, before _Peshkár_
Kharak Sing, Gobaria and a large number of Bhutias, several
Tibetan officials corroborated the whole account as related by
Mr. Landor. The man Nerba, who had held Mr. Landor's hair when
about to be beheaded and have his eyes burnt out, admitted he had
taken such part in the affair. There can be no doubt that the
above account is true and unexaggerated, for the whole of Byans
and Chaudans are ringing with it. The Jong Pen of Taklakot was
given ample opportunity to explain the affair, but he declined to
do so.
Mr. Savage Landor held Chinese passports, and his conduct during
his stay in that country did not warrant the officials to have
treated him in the barbarous, cruel way they did. I satisfied
myself, by careful inquiry from the people here, as to how Mr.
Landor behaved.
He is said to have been most munificent in his dealings with all,
and invariably affable and courteous. I had seen Mr. Landor just
before his entry into Tibet, and when I met him I could scarcely
recognise him, though he had then fairly recovered from the
terrible treatment he had received. I saw the marks of the cords
on his hands and feet, and they are still visible after this
lapse of time. He complains that he is still suffering from the
injury done his spine, and fears that it may be of a permanent
nature.
J. LARKIN.
_October_ 15, 1897.
[Sidenote: All communications to Government should give the No., date and
subject of any previous correspondence, and should note the Department
quoted.]
645
------
No. N. 277 A. of 189 .
_From_
THE UNDER-SECRETARY TO GOVERNMENT, N.-W. PROVINCE AND OUDH.
_To_
A. H. SAVAGE LANDOR, Esq.,
c/o Messrs. GRINDLAY, GROOM & CO.,
Bankers, Bombay.
_Dated_ ALLAHABAD, _November_ 13, 1897.
[Sidenote: Political Department.]
SIR,
In reply to your letter of November 5, I am desired to send you a
printed copy of depositions recorded by Mr. Larkin as noted
below:
1. Of yourself; 2. Of Chanden Sing;
3. Of Man Sing; 4. Of Rev. Harkua Wilson;
5. Of Pundit Gobaria; 6. Of Kharak Sing;
7. Of Suna
I have the honour to be, Sir,
Your most obedient Servant,
H. N. WRIGHT,
_Under-Secretary to Government, North-Western_
_Provinces and Oudh. N.M._
ALMORA DISTRICT.
IN THE COURT OF J. LARKIN, Esq., Magistrate of the 1st class.
_In re_ The Matter of the Tortures, Robbery, &c., of A. HENRY
SAVAGE LANDOR, Esq., and his servants, by the Thibetan
Authorities.
DEPOSITION OF MR. A. HENRY SAVAGE LANDOR; _taken on the 4th day of
October 1897. Oath administered by me._
My name is Arnold Henry Savage Landor; my father's name is
Charles Savage Landor; I am by caste European. British subject;
by occupation artist and traveller; my home is at Empoli
(Calappiano), police station Empoli, district Florence, Tuscany,
Italy; I reside at London.
Having made up my mind to travel in Turkistan and Tibet, for
geographical and scientific purposes as well as to study the
manners and customs of those people, I obtained a British
passport from the Foreign Office and one from the Chinese
Legation in London. I had already a passport granted me by the
Chinese Government through the British Consul at Tientsin, China.
I also possess letters from Lord Salisbury and the officials of
the British Museum. I am prepared to submit all these for
scrutiny. I arrived in India by the P. and O. ss. _Peninsular_
about the beginning of April. I travelled rapidly up to Almora. I
stayed there a short time to make arrangements for my travels in
Tibet. I entered that country through the Lumpia Lek. I kept away
from the road and paths, passing over several ranges of high
mountains, camping at very high altitudes, for nearly three
weeks. When I started I had thirty men with me. Twenty-one of
them left me when I was only five days in. At Mansarowar Lake
five Shokas declined to go any farther. I paid them up and they
left. It was they who gave the Lamas of Tucker information of my
intention to go to Lhassa. I had proceeded but three marches
towards the Maium La Pass when my only two remaining Shokas
deserted during the night. They carried off all my stock of
provisions for my Hindu servants, ropes, straps, &c. My party had
now dwindled down to Chanden Sing (bearer) and Man Sing (coolie).
The latter was ill; I fear he is developing leprosy. His feet
were in a very sore and cut condition, hence he could scarcely
get along. I went over the Maium Pass and followed the course of
the Brahmaputra River for many troublesome marches, until we
reached the Neo Tsambo (river), in crossing which one of my yaks
sank and its load went down and was lost. I tried hard, by
diving and swimming in this very cold and rapid river, to recover
my goods, but failed to do so, owing to the depth and muddiness
of the water. The load contained all my provisions, some clothes,
and all my shoes, cash rupees eight hundred, my lantern, some
ammunition, and sundry knives and razors. This misfortune drove
me to Toxem, which place we reached in a state of starvation. It
had taken us several days to get there. Owing to the weak,
fatigued, and starved condition of my two followers, I had to
seek to get them food and horses, as it was impossible for them
to get on without horses. I would not desert them, as I might
have, as I was still prepared to push on despite the many
difficulties I had to encounter hourly. Toxem consisted of one
mud house and an encampment of about eighty tents. The shepherds
received us kindly and consented to sell me horses and
provisions. I encamped for the night about two miles beyond the
settlement. During the evening several persons visited my
encampment, bringing me gifts of provisions. I invariably gave
them money in return, certainly three or four times more than the
value of the articles presented. During the night I was disturbed
several times, and went out into the darkness, but failed to
discover any one. This, however, was my nightly experience; hence
I grew to attach little moment to these noises. In the morning
(August 20), two or three Thibetans came offering to sell me
provisions and ponies. While I and my two servants were engaged
examining and selecting ponies, I noticed that numbers of
villagers came up one by one, spinning their wool or carrying
bags of _tsamba_ (meal), while others arrived with more ponies.
My servants, overjoyed at the hope of getting mounts, rode first
one pony and then another to suit themselves, Chanden Sing,
having selected one, called me to see it and try it. I walked to
the spot, which was about a hundred yards from my tent. Naturally
I was unarmed. The demeanour of these people had been so friendly
that it gave me no cause to suspect that any treachery was
anticipated. While I stood with my hands behind my back, enjoying
the delight of my long-suffering servants, I was suddenly seized
from the back by several persons. I was seized simultaneously by
the neck, arms, wrists, and legs, and was thrown down in a prone
position. I fought and struggled and managed to shake off some of
my captors, so that I was able to regain my feet; but others
rushed up and I was quickly surrounded and overpowered by
twenty-five or thirty persons. Ropes were thrown round my neck,
legs and body, and thus entangled, I was thrown three several
times more to the ground. I fought with my head, teeth, legs,
arms, and succeeded in regaining my legs four times. They
overcame me at last by strangling me with the rope which they had
thrown round my neck. Then they bound me hand, foot, and neck.
When I had an opportunity to look round, I saw Chanden Sing
struggling against some fifteen or twenty foes. He was quickly
entangled, thrown, and secured by ropes. Even Man Sing, the weak
and jaded coolie, was overcome by four stout powerful men, though
he was not able to offer any resistance. He, too, was bound.
While we were struggling against our treacherous foes, some
person gave a signal--a shrill whistle--which brought up an
ambush of four hundred armed soldiers. These soldiers took up a
position round us and covered us with their muskets. Then they
searched us and rifled us of any things we had in our pockets.
They next proceeded to my tent and took possession of everything
I possessed. They sealed up my things in bags subsequent to
having overhauled and examined them. Then with shouts and hisses
they led us prisoners to Toxem. There we were separated, being
placed in separate tents. Guards of many armed soldiers were
placed to watch us. In the afternoon of the same day a _Pombo_ (a
man in authority), with several high Lamas and military officers,
held a Court under a gaudy tent. I saw Chanden Sing led forward
to this Court. I was led to the rear of the mud-house to preclude
my witnessing the scene. I heard Chanden Sing being interrogated
in a loud angry tone and accused of having been my guide. Next I
heard Chanden Sing's moans and groans. Then a company of soldiers
led me before this tribunal. I was ordered to kneel, and as I
would not do so, they tried to compel me to do so by forcing me
on my knees. I succeeded in maintaining a standing posture. Then
I beheld my servant Chanden Sing lying down, stripped from the
waist downwards, in the midst of a number of Lamas and soldiers.
I saw two stalwart Lamas, one on each side of him, castigating
him with knotted leather thongs. They were laying on him with
vigorous arms from his waist to his feet. He was bleeding. As I
could not be compelled to kneel, I was allowed to sit down before
the _Pombo's_ officer. Then my note-books and printed maps were
produced, and I was interrogated, first as to the route I had
taken, then as to why I had drawn my maps and sketches. I
explained as best I could, partly through my servant Chanden Sing
and partly through an interpreter (a person who styled himself a
Gurkha and who knew a little Hindustani. He wore the garb of the
Tibetan). I explained to the officers that Chanden Sing, my
servant, did not know the route or anything about the maps and
sketches; that I had brought him as my servant, and that I alone
was responsible for the route taken by me, and for the maps and
sketches; that my servant was not to be punished; that I should
be if anybody was punishable. Thereupon one of the Lamas struck
me a hard blow on the head with the butt-end of his riding-crop,
and they continued to castigate my servant Chanden Sing. I was
led away captive, but nevertheless heard the moans of my
unfortunate servant. It began raining heavily, and I was taken to
a tent, where I was cruelly bound. Soldiers were placed within
and without the tent to guard me. I was thus kept the greater
part of the night with my arms manacled behind my back and my
legs bound. I was so bound that rest or sleep was impossible. The
tent was swarming with vermin, which quickly covered me; and I
may here remark that I suffered unspeakable tortures from this
pest all the time I was in captivity, as I was never permitted to
wash, bathe, or change my clothes. In the tent my guard lighted
a fire of yak's dung, and the tent was filled with a suffocating
smoke, which well-nigh choked me. I was placed near a heap of
this stinking fuel. I must say that it was a night full of
indescribable misery for me. Though I was fasting all that day
and night, yet my cruel jailers gave me no food. I was thus kept
a prisoner the following day until about 3 or 4 P.M. Then a
soldier entered the tent and informed me that I was to be
flogged, my legs broken, my eyes burnt out, and then beheaded. I
merely laughed at him; I could not but think that this was said
merely to intimidate me. Half an hour later another person
arrived and signalled to my guard to lead me out. Not considering
me sufficiently secure already, they tightened my bonds and tied
others round my body. In this fashion I was taken to the sole
house (mud one) in the encampment. Here an enormous pair of heavy
handcuffs were put on my hands, which were still kept behind my
back. Even in this the treachery of my captors was shown, for
they patted me on the back and called me a good man and told me I
was to be taken back to Taklakot. This they said fearing I would
resist. Then, after locking the handcuffs, they made the key over
to one person, who rode away quickly with it lest I might
possibly manage to get the key and unlock my handcuffs. For this
reason I was never permitted to see or know who carried the key.
Just then I heard the voice of my servant, Chanden Sing, calling
to me in a very weak tone. He said: "_Hazur! Hazur! Hum
murjaiega!_" I endeavoured to get to the poor wretch's
assistance. Upon my trying to move towards him my several guards
sprang upon me and ruthlessly grappled me and threw me on to the
back of a horse. I could only call aloud to my poor servant that
I was being taken to Taklakot that day, and that he would be
brought after me the following day. I noticed that Chanden Sing
was roughly seized and hurled back into one of the rooms of the
house, so that we could hold no conversation. My other servant,
Man Sing, had his arms pinioned, and he was put on a bare-backed
pony. The saddle of the horse I had been thrown upon is worthy of
description. It was merely the wooden frame of a very high-backed
saddle. From this high projecting back or crupper four or five
sharp iron spikes were sticking out. These caught me on the small
of my back. My guard was then augmented by some twenty or thirty
mounted soldiers with muskets and swords. My pony was held by a
horseman, who rode before me. We set off at a furious gallop.
Thus we travelled for miles until we arrived at a spot where the
_Pombo_ with a following of Lamas, banner-men, and soldiers, some
two hundred in all, were drawn up. Here my pony was allowed to go
on first, and the others reined up and drew aside. As I passed
before the _Pombo_ and his following a person named Nerba (the
Private Secretary of the Tokchim Tarjum) deliberately knelt and
fixed his musket on its rest and fired at me from a few paces.
The bullet whizzed past me: I was still at a gallop, which no
doubt saved my life, as the marksman could not take a steady aim.
My pony took fright and reared and plunged, but I maintained my
seat, though I was being cruelly pricked by the spikes in the
crupper. My pony was then seized and a long cord with a swivel at
the end was fastened to my handcuffs. The cord was about fifty
yards long. The other end was held by a horseman. In this way we
all set off at a hard gallop, and in order to accelerate the
speed, a horseman rode by my side and he lashed my pony furiously
to make it go at its hardest; meanwhile the horseman who held the
cord did his utmost to pull me out of the saddle, so that I would
have of a certainty been trampled to death by the cohort behind
me. While thus riding furiously with my arms extended backwards I
had the flesh rubbed off my hands and knuckles, so much so that
the bone was exposed in places, and as the horseman at the back
tugged to get me off and I clung hard with my knees, every tug
brought me into forcible contact with the spikes in the crupper
and wounded me cruelly. The cord was one made of yak's hair. It
was strong, but it eventually gave way. The shock unhorsed the
soldier. I was all but thrown. This ludicrous incident provoked
much mirth among my guards. They stopped my pony and the runaway
steed of the dismounted cavalier. The cord was retied with sundry
strong knots, and after an interruption of a few minutes we
resumed our breakneck gallop, I being in front. When nearing
Galshio, and as I was going round the curve of a sandhill, a
soldier, who had been posted in ambush, fired a shot at me from a
few paces distant. The shot did not strike me. This incident did
not stop our headlong career, and we continued on until we
arrived at Galshio about sunset. This was the 21st August last.
At this place there is a large monastery on the crown of a low
hill. At some distance from the base of the hill, and on the
plain, was pitched the large white tent of the _Pombo_. Our
cavalcade drew up there. I was then roughly torn out of my saddle
by two or three men. I requested to stop for one moment. My
captors refused me this and, roughly thrusting me forward, said
that, as I was about to be beheaded in an instant, it was
unnecessary. I was hustled to the left front of the tent, where,
on the ground, lay a log of wood in the shape of a prism. Upon
the sharp edge of it I was made to stand. I was held by the body
by several persons, while others pulled my legs as wide apart as
they could be stretched. Then my feet were very securely tied by
cords of yak-hair. The cords were so tight that they cut into the
flesh in numerous places, some of the cuts or wounds being about
three inches long. When I was thus secured one ruffian (Nerba),
whom I have alluded to above, came forward and seized me by the
hair of my head. He pulled my hair as hard as he could. My hair
was long, as I had not had it cut since the day preceding my
departure from London about the middle of March. The others
formed up in front of me in a semicircle. Then the _Pombo_ arose
and was handed a bar of iron, which had been made red hot in a
brazier, the end grasped by the _Pombo_ being bound round with
red cloths. He strode up to me, urged on by the Lamas, and said
jeeringly that as I had gone to see the country, my punishment
would be to have my eyes burnt out. This was in allusion to what
I had said at Toxem, viz.--that I was a traveller and merely
wished to see the country. He then placed the red-hot bar of iron
parallel to and about an inch and a half or two inches from my
eyeballs, and all but touching the nose. The heat was so intense
that it seemed as if my eyes were desiccated and my nose
scorched. There is still a mark of the burn on my nose. I was
forced to shut my eyes instinctively. He seemed to me to have
kept the bar of heated iron before my eyes for fully thirty
seconds or so. After some moments I opened my eyes and beheld the
hot iron on the ground. I saw him take a musket from the hands of
one of the soldiers standing by. He placed this against my
forehead and discharged it upwards, giving me a severe shock,
though nothing worse. Handing back the discharged weapon to the
soldier, the _Pombo_ seized a long two-handed sword and came at
me. He swung it from side to side, all the time foaming from his
mouth. This foaming, I believe, was produced artificially. He
then motioned to the man who all this time held me by the hair of
my head to bend my neck. I resisted with all my might to keep my
head erect. Then the _Pombo_ touched my neck with the sharp blade
of his sword as if to measure the distance for a clean, effective
stroke. Then he raised the sword and made a blow at me with all
his might. The sword passed disagreeably close to my neck, but
did not touch me. I did not flinch; and my cool indifferent
demeanour seemed to impress him, so much so that he seemed
reluctant to continue his diabolical performance, but the _posse_
of Lamas urged him on by gesticulations and vociferous shouts.
Thereupon he went through the same performance on the other side
of my neck. This time the blade passed so near that I felt that
the blow had not been more than half an inch from my neck. This
terminated the sword exercise, much to the disgust of the Lamas,
who still continued to urge the swordsman on. Then they held an
excited consultation. About this time my coolie, Man Sing, who
had frequently fallen off his bare-backed pony, arrived. The
person who held my hair then relinquished his hold, and another
person came up and gave me a forcible push, which gave me a nasty
fall on my back, straining all the tendons of my legs. Then my
servant Man Sing was brought forward and tied by his legs to the
same log of wood to which I was fastened. Then they made it
appear that they were going to behead Man Sing. I was pushed up
into a sitting posture and a cloth thrown over my head and face,
so that I could not see what was being enacted. I heard Man Sing
groan, and I concluded he had been despatched. I was left in this
terrible suspense for about a quarter of an hour. Then the cloth
was removed, and I beheld my servant lying before me bound to the
log. We both asked for food. This seemed to amuse our torturers,
for they laughed. In the meanwhile the day was beginning to wane,
and our jailers made us understand that our execution was merely
put off to the following day. After some time _tsamba_ (meal) and
tea, were brought in, and it was stuffed into our mouths by our
captors. We were kept out in the open without any shelter from
the pouring rain. We were sitting in one or two inches of rain
and were drenched and numbed with cold. I have already said my
hands were manacled from the back; so also were Man Sing's. But
at nightfall our captors increased our tortures by straining our
manacled arms upwards as high as they could be forced, and then
secured them to an upright pole at the back. This caused very
severe pain, straining the spine in an incredible way. Then they
tied a cord from Man Sing's neck to mine, the effect of which was
to make us maintain a most painful position. A guard encircled
us, and with them were two watch-dogs tied to pegs. The guard
were apparently so confident of our not being able to escape,
that they drew their heavy blankets over their heads and slept.
One of them left his sword lying by his side. This made me
conceive the plan to try to escape. Knowing the extremely supple
nature of my hands, I succeeded in drawing the right hand out of
my handcuffs. After an hour's anxious and stealthy work I managed
to unloose Man Sing's bonds round his feet. In his joy at feeling
partly free, Man Sing moved his legs rather clumsily, which the
vigilant watch-dogs detected and gave the alarm by barking. The
guard were aroused. They went and fetched lights and examined our
fastenings. I had succeeded in replacing my hand inside the
handcuff. They found Man Sing's bonds loose and, giving him a few
cuts with a whip, warned him that if he undid them again they
would decapitate him, and refastened them. Then they placed the
light between us and put a shelter overhead to prevent the rain
extinguishing the light. At about 6 or 7 A.M. the following day
they undid Man Sing's feet. I was kept all that day until sunset
in the same uncomfortable and painful posture. Thus I was kept
fully twenty-four hours. During the day my property had been
overhauled and sealed. One of the Lamas picked up my
Martini-Henry rifle and put a cartridge in the breach, but failed
to push it home firmly. He then discharged the gun. The muzzle of
the barrel burst and the face of the Lama was much injured
thereby. I laughed heartily at this, and this apparently amused
the _Pombo_, for he, too, joined in. About half an hour after
this incident my feet were untied. It was then sunset. I found I
had lost the use of my feet. It took my right foot some two or
three hours before the blood began to circulate freely, but my
left foot remained like dead until the following day. That night
my feet were secured by cords. A bowl of some boiling steaming
liquid, which I was informed was tea, was presented to me to
drink. The eagerness of the surrounding Lamas that I should
partake of it aroused my suspicion. When it was pushed up to my
lips I merely sipped it and declined it. After a short time I
felt most sharp, excruciating, pains in my stomach, which
continued for several days. I could not but conclude that the
drink proffered had been poisoned. The following day Man Sing and
I were led back on foot to Toxem, our jailers riding on horses.
We had to go at a great speed despite our severely lacerated
feet. We crossed several cold streams, sinking in mud and water
to the waist. At Toxem, to my great delight, I beheld Chanden
Sing still alive. We were detained there for that night. On the
following day we were placed on yaks' backs and hurried off
towards Taklakot. Thus we journeyed at an unpleasantly fast pace
for fifteen days, from before daybreak to nightfall. Our guards
were bent on taking us _viâ_ the Lumpiya Pass; but as this meant
a long protracted journey of fifteen or sixteen days, over ice
and snow, I knew that we would, in our starved, weakened state,
succumb. We were all but naked. This was a day's journey on this
side of Mansarowar, where our bonds had been unloosed. We
rebelled, and it well-nigh ended in a fight, but our guards
consented to halt at Dogmar, until they sent to inquire if the
Jong Pen of Taklakot would give us passage through his
jurisdiction. After much demur we were eventually taken to
Taklakot. This arrangement, I subsequently learnt, was entirely
due to the good offices and energy of the _Political Peshkár_
Kharak Sing Pal, Rev. H. Wilson, and Pundit Gobaria. On arriving
at Taklakot we hastened to Rev. Harkua Wilson's tent, where we
were warmly received, attended to, fed, and clothed. My injuries
were examined by the Rev. Harkua Wilson, who is a hospital
assistant, and who will be able to depose to their nature and
extent. In this gentleman's tent, and in the hearing of several
persons, among whom were _Peshkár_ Kharak Sing, Rev. H. Wilson,
and Pundit Gobaria, the man Nerba, above mentioned, the Toxem
Tarjum, and the Jong Pen's secretary, and also Lapsang, chief
secretary to the Jong Pen, admitted that my account of the affair
was perfectly true. Some of my property, more or less damaged,
was then restored me by the Tokchim Tarjum. I then gave him two
lists, one showing articles restored me, and the other the
articles missing. The _Peshkár_, Kharak Sing, has copies of the
lists. I was in a very weak state, very exhausted through what I
had suffered and little food. It was due to the kind, liberal,
and attentive care and treatment of the Rev. H. Wilson and
_Peshkár_ Kharak Sing Pal that I recovered. The few ragged
clothes I had on were literally swarming with lice, as I had no
change of raiment, nor was I ever allowed to wash. I contracted
the vermin from the tents I was kept in and also from my guards
who at first slept round me.
Read over to witness.
A. HENRY SAVAGE LANDOR. J. LARKIN.
DEPOSITION OF CHANDEN SING, _taken on the 9th day of October 1897.
Solemn affirmation administered by me._
My name is Chanden Sing; my father's name is Bije Singh; I am by
caste Thatola; thirty-two years of age; by occupation _kheti_; my
home is at That, police station Bisot, district Almora.
I took service as a bearer with Mr. Landor at Almora on the 27th
or 28th April last. I accompanied him on his trip to Tibet. We
went along through the wilds, encountering many hardships and
reached Toxem. There I insisted on my master buying ponies to
take us to Darjeeling. This resulted in our capture, for up to
then we had vigilantly kept away from the people. The people who
brought us ponies to buy played us false. They informed the
authorities, who sent soldiers, who lay in ambush behind the
sandhills until the crowd of horse dealers and lookers-on, whom
we did not suspect of treachery, surrounded and seized us. We
were bound with cords by the arms (at back) and legs. My master
was more cruelly tied than we two servants. We were taken to the
Rája,[44] who accused me of having brought my master into the
country. I was then stretched out and two strong men with whips
inflicted two hundred stripes on me. I was questioned as to the
maps. My master called out that he, not I, alone understood them,
and asked that I should not be beaten. Thereupon a Lama struck
him across the head and removed him to a distance, so that I
could not communicate with him. They took all our property. Then
we were kept separate for the night. I was put in a room and my
hands tied to a pole. I could not sleep with the pain I was in.
Next day my master, with his hands tied behind his back, was put
on a spiked saddle and tied by a long rope held by a horseman. He
went at a gallop surrounded by about fifty horsemen armed with
guns and swords. Man Sing, our coolie, was also taken with him.
My guards informed me my master was to be decapitated at Galshio,
and that I was to be beheaded where I was. On the fourth or fifth
day my master returned. Meanwhile I was a close prisoner, bound
up without food. When I saw my master he was in a pitiful state.
He was handcuffed with enormous cuffs, clothes torn to rags,
bleeding from his waist, feet and hands swollen. Next day a guard
on horseback took us back, bound as we were, on yaks' backs,
towards Mansarowar. There I had my cords unloosed. My master was
kept bound until we got to Tangchim. We were eventually taken to
Taklakot, where the Rev. Harkua Wilson met us and saw our
condition. He attended to our wants. My master was well-nigh at
death's door. The Tibetans returned some of my master's property,
but they have kept about 475 rupees in cash, two rifles,
revolver, two files, a lot of soap, medicine, a butterfly dodger,
matches, a box of mathematical instruments, a quantity (400)
cartridges, a large box of photographic plates and negatives,
three bags. We did not molest any one, and paid more than four
times the value for any food we bought.
Read over to witness.
J. LARKIN.
DEPOSITION OF MAN SING, _taken on the 9th day of October 1897.
Solemn affirmation administered by Pandit Krishnanand._
My name is Man Sing; my father's name is Sohan Sing; I am by
caste Pharswal; twenty-five years of age; by occupation _kheti_;
my home is at Sileri, police station Bichla Kattyur, district
Almora.
I accompanied Mr. Savage Landor into Tibet. We were surrounded
and arrested at Toxem while bargaining and selecting ponies. I
was tied up hand and foot, and again tied to a log of wood with
my master. When I begged for mercy, they threatened to behead me
and struck me on the head with the handle of a _kukri_. We were
taken to Galshio. There the Tibetans were on the point of
beheading my master. They tried to burn out his eyes. They fired
at him twice to kill him. They tried to pull him off his horse to
have him trampled upon. He was subjected to many insults and
hardships. We were kept bound and guarded until brought to
Mansarowar. There our hands were untied. Chanden Sing was with
us. He received about two to three hundred lashes at Toxem. I got
off most lightly, as when the three of us were captured and
examined, I said I was merely the yak driver and not responsible
for anything. I lost nothing, but they took my master's
property--three firearms, some money, and other things; I cannot
enumerate them. We were brought back to Taklakot, where we met
friends. My master was made to sit on a spiked saddle and taken
from Toxem to Galshio.
Read over to witness.
J. LARKIN.
DEPOSITION OF THE REV. HARKUA WILSON, _taken on the 9th day of October
1897. Oath administered by me._
My name is Harkua Wilson. By caste Christian; forty-six years of
age; by occupation missionary; my home is at Dwarahat, police
station M. Dwara, district Almora. I reside at Gunji, Byans.
I am a missionary in the American Methodist Episcopal Society. My
work is in the northern _pattis_ or Bhot. I accompanied Mr.
Savage Landor in July last as far as Gyanima in Tibet. We went
through the Lumpiya Pass. It took us four days from Lumpiya to
get to Gyanima. At this place the Barkha Tarjam declined to allow
me to go on, but he allowed Mr. Landor (who was said to be my
brother) with four porters and three servants to go on; but the
following day he withdrew this permission. We then returned three
marches. At midnight in a snowstorm Mr. Landor went up the
mountains, determining to go through Tibet by the wilds. He had
with him nine followers. He was then in perfect health and
strength, and so were his followers. At the end of August I heard
that Mr. Landor had been arrested, and, fearing the Tibetans
would kill him, I hastened to Taklakot to do my utmost to save
him. There I learnt that Mr. Landor and his two servants were
being brought back. Hearing that it was the intention of the
Tibetans to take them _viâ_ the Lumpiya, I, with Pandit Gobaria,
Jai Mal, and Lata, induced the Jong Pen of Taklakot to allow Mr.
Landor to be brought to Taklakot. On the evening of 7th September
_Peshkár_ Kharak Sing arrived there. At about 11 A.M. on the 8th
September Mr. Landor, Chanden Sing, and Man Sing arrived. I took
them to my tent and heard their account of what had happened. I
could hardly recognise Mr. Landor; he looked very ill and seemed
nearly exhausted. I examined his injuries and found that his
forehead had the skin off and was covered with scabs. His cheeks
and nose were in the same state. His hair had grown long. He was
unshaven and unkempt. He was in rags and dirty, covered with
swarms of lice. His hands, fingers, and wrists were swollen and
wounded. On his spine at the waist he had an open sore, and the
parts around were swollen and red. His seat was covered with
marks of wounds caused by spikes. His feet were swollen, and so
were his ankles. The flesh about the latter was much hurt and
contused, showing marks of cords having been tightly bound round
them. He was in a very low condition. I attended to him, having
given him a bath and a change of clothes. I gave him food, but
though he said he was famished, he could scarcely eat. I am
confident, if he had been a few days longer in the hands of the
Tibetans and had been taken _viâ_ Lumpiya, he would have died.
After half an hour the Tibetans brought some of Mr. Landor's
things under seal. Some of the Tibetan officials on one side,
_Peshkár_ Kharak Sing and Gobaria and myself on the other, made
out a list of the property, which we took over, and a list was
prepared of the articles taken from Mr. Landor and which were
missing. Mr. Landor dictated the list from memory. Copies of
these lists were furnished to the Jong Pen. I kept Mr. Landor at
Taklakot until the afternoon of the 11th September. Then I
conveyed him by easy stages to Gunji, where I have a dispensary,
and attended to him. I am a hospital assistant. I sent off
reports to the Commissioner and Deputy Commissioner. Chanden Sing
and Man Sing were also in a wretched state. The former had marks
of recent flogging from his waist to above his ankles.
Read over to witness.
J. LARKIN.
DEPOSITION OF PANDIT GOBARIA, _taken on the 13th day of October_ 1897.
_Solemn affirmation administered by Pandit Krishnanand._
My name is Gobaria; my father's name is Jaibania; I am by caste
Garbial; forty-eight years of age; by occupation trader; my home
is at Garbyang, police station Byans, district Almora.
I heard that Mr. Landor had been arrested and brought down as far
as Rungu, and saw that the Jong Pen of Taklakot was sending men
to divert Mr. Landor by the long roundabout route _viâ_ the
Lumpia Pass. I went to the Jong Pen and succeeded in getting him
to allow Mr. Landor to be brought to Taklakot. Next morning Mr.
Landor and his two servants with two yaks arrived. Mr. Landor was
in a very bad state--in a dying state. A list of Mr. Landor's
property as received from the Tokchim Tarjum was made. Then Mr.
Landor had a list of things taken from him and not returned made
out. A Tibetan, named Nerba, who was present, admitted that he
had taken part in Mr. Landor's torture and had held him by the
hair. The official who had tortured Mr. Landor was the Galjo
Changjo and a Lama.
Read over to witness.
J. LARKIN.
DEPOSITION OF THE POLITICAL PESHKAR KHARAK SING, _taken on the 9th day of
October_ 1897. _Solemn affirmation administered by me._
My name is Kharak Sing; my father's name is Gobind Sing; I am by
caste Pal; twenty-six years of age; by occupation _Peshkár_; my
home is at Askot, police station Askot, district Almora.
I am the Political _Peshkár_ at Garbyang in Byans. I knew and
reported that Mr. Henry Savage Landor had gone into Tibet. On the
5th September I learnt from Bhotias that he had been stopped at
Toxem and reported it. I then proceeded to Taklakot in Tibet, to
inquire into the matter. On the 7th September, at Taklakot, I
learnt that Mr. Landor was a prisoner at Dogmar, and that the
Jong Pen would not permit his being brought into Taklakot, as
this meant that Mr. Landor would have to go to Gyanima and _viâ_
the Lumpia Lek. I then insisted on the Jong Pen allowing Mr.
Landor a passage to Taklakot, and warned him of the consequences
if he declined. The Jong Pen consented, but gave orders that Mr.
Landor should be conveyed hurriedly by night through Taklakot to
the Lippu Lek. I protested against this, and eventually Mr.
Landor, on 8th September, was conveyed into Taklakot. The Jong
Pen had sent two _sawárs_ to his guard to admit them. In the Rev.
Harkua Wilson's tent Mr. Landor related how he had been tortured.
There were several of the Tibetans present who had taken part in
the tortures, and they signified that all of Mr. Landor's story
was true. Among them was Nerba, of Thokchim Tarjum, who admitted
that he had held Mr. Landor by the hair when about to be
beheaded, and had cut the nails of his fingers and toes. He
admitted he had taken a gold ring from Mr. Landor, which a
soldier had taken from him. I made a report of all this and sent
(1) a list of Mr. Landor's property restored him by the Tibetans
and (2) a list of articles missing. I know Mr. Landor had two
rifles and a revolver when he went into Tibet and a considerable
amount of money. Mr. Landor was in a very critical position; he
was past recognition. He was wounded on the face, body, hands,
and legs. I went to the Jong Pen and protested at the treatment
given Mr. Landor. The former boldly admitted that Mr. Landor had
been treated as alleged, and that it was their duty to act so.
The Jong Pen promised to try and have Mr. Landor's missing
property restored to him. I know he wrote off to the Garban of
Gartok about orders issuing to the Toxem Tarjum. He has engaged
to send me anything recovered.
Read over to witness.
J. LARKIN.
DEPOSITION OF SUNA, _taken on the 14th day of October 1897. Solemn
affirmation administered by me._
My name is Suna; my father's name is Gandachiju; I am by caste
Khumhar; forty-two years of age; by occupation trader; my home is
at Gunji, police station Byans, district Almora.
I saw Mr. Landor and his two servants as prisoners about one and
a-half month ago, this side of the Mansarowar Lake. Mr. Landor
and Chanden Sing were on yaks; Man Sing on foot. They were well
guarded. Tunda and Amr Sing were with me. They went on ahead to
Taklakot while I stayed back with the sheep. They went to inform
the Rev. Harkua Wilson of the capture. I saw Mr. Landor detained
at Dogmar.
Read over to witness.
J. LARKIN.
_Statement of property confiscated by the Tibetan authorities, and
recovered some months later by the Government of India._
189 .
DEPARTMENT
-------------------------------
_From_
H.K. GRACEY, Esq., C.S.,
_The Deputy Commissioner of
Almora_,
_To_
A.H. SAVAGE LANDOR, Esq.,
c/o GRINDLAY, GROOM & CO.
BOMBAY.
_Dated 10th December_ )
) 1897
_Received_ )
897
-----
Revolver, 1. No. XXII. of 1897.
Jewel ring, 1. -------------------------------
Cash--68/12/--in eight-anna _File No._ .
pieces. Serial No. .
Cartridges for rifles, 110. -------------------------------
Rifles, 2 (1 damaged).
Cartridges for pistol, 37.
Cleaning-rods for rifles, 2. -------------------------------
Cover for rifle, 1. _File Heading._
" revolver, 1. _Property of_ Mr. H. SAVAGE
Leather strap, 1. LANDOR.
Net to catch butterflies, 1. -------------------------------
SUBJECT.
Has the honour to inform him
that his marginally noted articles
have been received by the Political
Peshkar of Garbyang from
the Jong-pen of Taklakote.
W. SMITH, C.S., _for_
B.R. Regr. No. 27 ) P. No. 2131 H.K. GRACEY, C.S.,
Dept. XXII. B.-- ) 11-9-96- _Deputy Commissioner, Almora._
1,00,000 of 1896. ) P.D. W.J.W.
_Certificate from_ DR. WILSON.
DHARCHULA BYAS, BHOT.
I herewith certify that I accompanied Mr. A. Henry Savage Landor
in his ascent up the Mangshan mountain, and that Mr. Landor and a
Rongba coolie reached an altitude of 22,000 (twenty-two thousand)
feet. Owing to the rarefied air, I and the other men accompanying
Mr. Landor were unable to go as far as he did. Mr. Landor was at
the time carrying on him a weight of thirty seers (60 lbs.),
consisting of silver rupees, two aneroids, cartridges, revolver,
&c. During the whole time I travelled with Mr. Landor he always
carried the above weight on him, and generally carried his rifle
besides (7¼ lbs. extra). We all suffered very much during the
ascent, as the incline was very steep, and there was deep snow
and much troublesome _débris_.
I also certify that I took many photographs[45] of Mr. Landor and
his two servants after they were released, and Mr. Landor looked
then very old and suffering, owing to starvation and the wounds
that had been inflicted upon him by the Tibetans.
(Signed) H. WILSON,
_In charge of Bhot Dispensaries,
American Methodist Episcopal Mission._
DHARCHULA, _April_ 27, 1898.
DEAR MR. LANDOR,
Do you remember the night when we separated near Lama Chokden in
Tibet, you to proceed towards Lhassa, and I to return to India?
I have in my lifetime, seen few such fierce snowstorms. The storm
had been raging the whole day and night, and the wind was blowing
so hard that we could not hear each other speak. I can only
recollect with horror at the dreadful anxiety I was in when you,
with a handful of men, escaped from the Tibetan soldiers watching
us, and in the dark fearful night proceeded to take your men up
the mountain range, with no path, and among loose stones and
boulders, a way, indeed, not even fit for goats.
That night, I well remember, you were carrying a weight much
greater than the one you usually carried, thirty seers (60 lbs.),
for when you left the tent you had in your hand a small bag with
200 extra silver rupees, and you carried your revolver, your
rifle, and some extra ammunition. I assure you that I look back
with amazement at how you succeeded in pulling through the
dangers and difficulties of that night alone.
Yours sincerely,
(Signed) H. WILSON,
_American Methodist Episcopal Mission._
DR. H. WILSON'S _Statement_.
I herewith certify that, having heard at Gungi (Byas) that Mr. A.
Henry Savage Landor, after losing all his provisions in a large
river, had been captured by the Tibetans at Toxem and had there
been tortured, I proceeded to Taklakot (Tibet) in the hope of
obtaining further news. At Taklakot the news was confirmed, and I
heard that Mr. Landor and two servants were brought back under a
strong guard. Some uncertainty prevailed as to what route he
would be made to follow, and efforts were made by the Tibetans to
make him proceed by the long, cold, and dangerous route _viâ_ the
Lumpiya Pass, instead of by the shorter and easier route _viâ_
Taklakot. We heard that Mr. Landor and his two men were in very
poor health owing to the ill-treatment by the Tibetans, and no
doubt the long journey over ice and snow by the Lumpiya Pass left
but little chance of their reaching Gungi alive. At the request
of Jaimal Bura, Latto Bura and myself, Pundit Gobaria despatched
a man to the Jong Pen at Kujer to explain that we would be
thankful and would consider it a great kindness if he would allow
Mr. Landor to travel through Taklakot. At last, after much
trouble, our request was granted. The officer who brought us the
news informed us that Mr. Landor would be made to pass through
Taklakot at night, and conveyed directly over the Lippu Pass. The
Political Peshkar Kharak Sing Pal arrived in Taklakot that day
from India, and we held a consultation. We agreed to keep a
watchman in the road all night, but Mr. Landor did not go by. In
the afternoon of the 8th, Mr. Landor and his two men arrived.
They had been rifled of all they possessed and their clothes were
torn and dirty. Mr. Landor and the two men looked very ill and
suffering, Mr. Landor's face being hardly recognisable. He and
his bearer Chanden Sing gave us an account of the tortures that
had been inflicted upon them at Toxem and Galshio, and Mr. Landor
showed the Peshkar Kharak Singh, Pundit Gobaria, myself and many
Bhotiyas (Shokas) twenty-two wounds on his spine, feet and hands
received from the Tibetans. Chanden Sing, who had been
administered two hundred lashes, showed numerous black marks and
open sores where the skin had been torn on both legs. From Lamas
and soldiers who had been present at Mr. Landor's arrest and
tortures I heard the following account.
An ambush had been laid, and Mr. Landor and his bearer were
caught by treachery when some hundred and fifty yards away from
their tent, inside which were the rifles and revolver. They made
a desperate resistance and fought for over fifteen minutes,
struggling to get at their weapons. Thirty men were on Mr. Landor
and twelve or fifteen held Chanden Sing, while four hundred
soldiers armed with matchlocks and swords, and who had kept
hidden behind sandhills, quickly surrounded them. They were
tightly bound with ropes round the neck, chest, and legs, and the
arms were pinioned behind their backs. Chanden Sing received two
hundred lashes that same day. Mr. Landor and Mansing were taken
to Galshio three days later. Ponies were provided for them,
Mansing riding bare-back, while the wooden frame of a saddle was
provided for Mr. Landor, the frame having several iron spikes
sticking out of it in the back part of it. During the long ride
to Galshio these nails produced several wounds on Mr. Landor's
spine and back. Efforts were made, by means of a rope attached to
his handcuffs, to pull him off the saddle and have him trodden to
death by the hundreds of ponies of the Lamas, soldiers and
officers that came full gallop behind. Moreover, two shots were
fired at Mr. Landor. Mansing, unable to use his hands that were
bound, fell many times off his steed and remained some two miles
behind. When Galshio was reached Mr. Landor was pulled off his
saddle, and they told him that his head would be cut off
immediately. Dragged mercilessly by soldiers, he was taken to a
wooden log. Here they stretched his legs wide apart, and his feet
were made fast on the cutting edge of the log by means of tightly
bound ropes that cut into his flesh. Then while an officer held
him in a standing position by the hair of his head, a hot iron
was passed in front of his eyes and a matchlock laid on his
forehead and fired. Lastly, the head Lama approached with a long
sword and swung it right and left close to Mr. Landor's neck, as
if about to cut off the head. Mr. Landor remained composed and
spoke no words. After some twenty minutes Mansing arrived, and
was tied to the same log in front of Mr. Landor, and pretence was
made to behead Mansing, Mr. Landor's face having been covered
with a cloth. The Lamas professed to have been very astonished
when, after having tied the prisoners' hands high up to poles
behind them, Mr. Landor asked for some _tzamba_ (oatmeal), meat
and rice, and Mansing for some butter.
The amazement of the Tibetans appears to have been even greater
when food was brought and Mr. Landor and Mansing partook heartily
of it and asked for more. Mr. Landor was kept chained to the log
for twenty-four hours, Mansing twelve hours. When they were
brought back to Toxem they found that Chanden Sing had been kept
four days tied hands and feet to an upright post, and he had been
given no food.
At Taklakot, an officer (called Nerba) confessed in my own tent,
and before Pundit Gobaria and the Political Peshkar Kharak Sing,
that he himself had held Mr. Landor by the hair when he was
about to be beheaded. He had also fired a shot at Mr. Landor,
and had moreover been ordered by the Lamas to cut off Mr.
Landor's toe and finger nails, as well as a lock of his hair. The
Taklakot Lamas and the Tokchim Tarjum professed to be sorry at
the Galshio Lamas having behaved in such a cruel manner.
At Taklakot we made a list of Mr. Landor's property that was
still missing, and we gave a copy to the Jong Pen and one to the
Tokchim Tarjum, that they may try to recover what they can.
(Signed) HARKUA WILSON,
_Methodist Episcopal Mission._
GUNGI BYAS BHOT, DARMA. _Sept._ 21, 1897.
DR. H. WILSON'S _Certificate of_ A. HENRY SAVAGE LANDOR'S _injuries and
wounds_
TAKLAKOT, TIBET, _Sept._ 8, 1897.
I herewith certify that I have examined the wounds that Mr. A.
Henry Savage Landor received during his imprisonment at Galshio
in Tibet.
There are _five_ large sores along the spinal column and the
spine itself has sustained severe injuries. At the time they were
inflicted these wounds must have caused profuse bleeding.
The feet bear the marks of cruel treatment. On the right foot are
still well visible to-day (nineteen days after wounds were
inflicted) _six_ wounds, viz.--
On the heel one wound one inch long;
Outside ankle " half-inch long;
Front of ankle " one inch long;
Top of foot, three inches above the toes,
one wound one and a-half inch long.
Two small wounds on the upper part of foot.
On the left foot the _four_ wounds are of a very severe
character, and were produced by ropes cutting into the flesh.
One nasty wound above heel, two and a-half inches long.
One wound below the ankle, one and one-fourth of an inch long.
One wound three inches above the toes, two inches long.
One wound on the heel, half an inch long.
These wounds have caused the feet to be much swollen, the left
foot especially having been considerably injured. Its strained
tendons give still intense pain when touched and the foot is very
heavy, inflamed and swollen.
On the left hand there are _five_ wounds.
On middle finger a wound one inch long and deep to the bone.
On root of middle finger, a wound half an inch long.
On small finger, a wound one-fourth of an inch long.
On third " " " "
On first " " half an inch long.
The four fingers are still very swollen.
On the right hand there are only _two_ wounds.
The first, one half-inch long, on the upper side of the hand.
The second, a quarter of an inch long on the second finger.
Both hands are aching and much swollen, and the wounds upon them
were evidently produced by the heavy iron chain of the handcuffs.
On arrival at Taklakot (nineteen days after having been tortured)
Mr. Landor is still suffering from strong fever caused by his
wounds, and no doubt when they were fresh these must have given
Mr. Landor intense pain. His health and strong constitution seem
altogether shattered by the sufferings he has undergone.
His face, hands and feet are very swollen, and he appears
extremely weak; he himself attributed his great exhaustion to
having been unable to sleep for nineteen consecutive nights on
account of the bad sores on the spine and legs and because of the
heavy iron chains with which he was laden.
H. WILSON,
_Hospital Assistant, Methodist Episcopal Mission._
GUNGI BYAS BHOT, DARMA.
N.B.--The numerous smaller wounds, burns, &c., on the face and
body are not taken into account.
A copy of this report was despatched from Dr. Wilson direct to
the Deputy Commissioner, and was forwarded to the Government of
India.
DR. H. WILSON'S _Certificate of_ CHANDEN SING'S _injuries_.
TAKLAKOT, _Sept._ 8, 1897.
I herewith certify that I have examined Chanden Sing, Mr. A.
Henry Savage Landor's servant who accompanied him to Tibet, where
they were arrested and tortured. Chanden Sing has visible to this
day on both his legs, and twenty-one days after they were
inflicted, innumerable black marks produced by flogging. So
severely appears the punishment to have been administered, that
large patches of skin and flesh have been torn off by the
lashing. Chanden Sing is now in very poor health, and it is
evident by his appearance that he suffers greatly from the
tortures and ill-treatment received at the hands of the Tibetans.
H. WILSON,
_Hospital Assistant, Methodist Episcopal Mission._
GUNGI BYAS BHOT, DARMA.
A copy of this was sent by Dr. Wilson to the Deputy Commissioner at
Almora, and was forwarded to the Government of India.
_Certificate by_ MISS M. A. SHELDON, M.D., _of the Methodist Episcopal
Mission._
M.E. MISSION,
KHELA P.O. DIST. ALMORA.
EAST KUMAON, BHOT.
"All at it and always at it."--WESLEY.
_Sept._ 28, 1897.
This is to certify that I have seen the wounds inflicted upon Mr.
Landor by the Tibetans. It is now about forty days since he was
bound and tortured. The wounds are healing well. The scars upon
his hands caused by being bound with chains behind his back are
plainly visible.
The feet show even more clearly the results of inhuman binding
and torture. The wounds have not yet entirely healed, and there
is much discoloration. One foot is still swollen.
I have not seen the wounds upon his spine inflicted by a
torturing saddle, but he complains of much pain and soreness in
that region.
(Signed) MARTHA A. SHELDON, M.D.
_Certificate from_ DOCTOR TURCHINI, _a Director of the Royal Hospital of
S.M. Nuova, Florence, Italy._
D.D.
[Illustration: STAMP]
R. ARCISPEDALE DI S.M. NUOVA,
GABINETTO
ELETTRO-TERAPICO
DIREZIONE,
FIRENZE.
FIRENZE, 12 _Febbraio_, 1898.
Il sottoscritto Medico Primario Direttore del Turno e Gabinetto
elettro-terapico del R° Arcispedale di S. Maria Nuova dichiara
quanto appresso: nel mese di Dicembre appena giunto in questa
Città visitò il Sig^re Henry Savage Landor e lo trovô affetto=
Da _retinite_ all' occhio sinistro con suffusione dei mezzi
trasparenti, e _da grave iperemia retinica_ all' occhio destro.
La vista era _abolita_ a sinistra, _diminuita_ a destra=
La _colonna vertebrale_ era dolente, se leggermente compressa con
un dito, o se appena percossa col martello da percussione il
dolore si faceva intenso, acuto specialmente nelle regioni
lombare e dorsale. La deambulazione non era libera ma incerta, la
funzionalità degli sfinteri molto difettosa per cui difficolta
della mizione e delle evacuazioni.
Presentava poi delle chiazze ecchimobili sopra-malleolari e
sopra-carpiche. L'aspetto suo generale era di persona sofferente
e molto anemica. Fatte le cure che il caso del Sig^re Landor
reclamava, oggi 12 Febbraio notiamo; all' occhio destro risoluta
la iperemia retinica, aumentato il campo visivo, occhio che serve
discretamente alla sua funzione; all' occhio sinistro è molto
turbata la circolazione endoculare e quivi la funzione visiva non
è ristabilita; non vede gli oggetti e tutto gli fa confusione. La
colonna vertebrale presenta sempre dei punti dolenti in specie al
rigonfiamento sacro lombare. La deambulazione è più corretta, ma
gli sarebbe impossibile fare una passeggiata lunga. La mizione e
megliorata, non cosi la defacazione che è sempre difettosa per
impotenza dello sfintere.
Le condizioni generali sono megliorate, ma occorre pero al Sig^re
Landor seguire la cura intrapresa, e specialmente la cura
elettrica ed idroterapica.
(Signed) DOTT. TURCHINI.
COMUNE DI FIRENZE.
OFFICIO D'IGIENE.
_Visto per la legalizzazione della
firma del Sig. Dott. Turchini.
Dal Municipio Firenze
Lira Stamp. Li 12 Febbraio 1898.
Il Sindaco.
P.I.
A. Artimini._
_Letter from the_ POLITICAL PESHKAR, KHARAK SING.
_Private_.
GARBYANG, BHOT,
_November_ 13, 1897.
MY DEAR MR. LANDOR,
I hope that you have received my letter of some time ago and that
you may be quite well now. Are you still at Almora? I have not
yet got back your things from the Jong Pen, but I hear it is
quite true that all your property reached Tokchim a long time
ago. I have sent another letter to the Jong Pen, but cannot get
an answer as the Lippu Pass is now closed owing to a heavy fall
of snow yesterday. It is rumoured that a Tibetan officer is
coming from Lhassa to Taklakot to inquire after your case, and
probably he may have reached Taklakot yesterday, and after
examining your things he will send them down to me. Now I have
nearly finished my work at this place. I have collected the dues
and paid them to the agents of the Jong Pen. I will go back to
Chaudas the day after to-morrow--_i.e._, on the 15th of this
month.
With kind regards and hoping to hear from you soon.
I remain,
Yours sincerely,
KHARAK SING PAL.
_Letter from the_ POLITICAL PESHKAR, KHARAK SING PAL.
HALDWANI, _January_ 11, 1898.
MY DEAR MR. LANDOR,
I hope that by this time you have reached safely home. I have
been very anxious as I have not heard from you or of your safe
arrival there. The dreadful day of the 8th of September is still
vivid in my mind, when I first saw you at Taklakot (in Tibet)
after you had been tortured by the Tibetans, and where I had come
in search of you.
I cannot forget your fearful appearance, with long hair and
beard, and your face, body and limbs covered with wounds and
bruises. When you arrived at Taklakot, in a few miserable rags
stained with blood, dirty and swarming with lice, and surrounded
by the guard of Tibetans, I could hardly believe it possible that
it was you who stood before me, so much you had changed since I
had last seen you.
I am still deeply pained when I think of the pitiable condition
you were in, when you showed me 22 (twenty-two) fresh wounds on
your hands, feet and spine, without counting the injuries to your
face. And indescribable pain gave us too seeing your confiscated
baggage under seal of the Tibetan authorities, and to find it,
when we opened it, to be full of broken or damaged instruments
and other articles of your property.
I think that you may remember my inquiry and consequent anger
when the Tibetan officers and soldiers admitted their guilt of
tying you by your limbs to the stretching log and of placing you
on a spiked saddle; of removing forcibly your toe-nails and
pulling you by the hair of your head. You know quite well that I
had no power to do more than to report the matter to higher
authorities, but I can assure you that it was to me quite
unbearable to hear from the Tibetans that they had brought you to
execution, and that they boasted of having swung the naked
executioner's sword right and left of your neck, and that they
had brought a red-hot iron close to your eyes to blind you.
Your servants' condition, especially that of Chanden Sing, whom
like yourself the Tibetans kept prisoner for twenty-four days,
and who was given two hundred lashes, was pitiable beyond words.
I am anxious to see the photographs taken by Dr. Wilson of you as
you were when you arrived at Taklakot. I trust that by now you
may feel better and that the pain in your spine may have
altogether disappeared. I believe your rifles, revolver, ring,
&c., which I succeeded in recovering from the Tibetans, must have
reached you by now through the Deputy Commissioner at Almora. The
cash and other articles have not been recovered, nor is there any
probability of getting them back. Hoping to receive news of you
soon and with best salaams,
I am, yours most obediently,
K. KHARAK SING PAL,
_Political Peshkar,
Garbyang Dharchula, Bhot._
_Letter from_ COLONEL GRIGG, _Commissioner of Kumaon._
_Commissionership of Kumaon._
_Dated December_ 7, 1897.
MY DEAR LANDOR,
Karak Sing reports that 2 guns (1 damaged), 1 revolver, 1
signet-ring, cash 68/12/-, cartridges (gun) 110, ditto revolver
37, cleaning-rods 2, gun-case 1, leather straps, 1
butterfly-catcher, &c., have been handed to him by the Jong Pen
of Taklakot, and he has requested Deputy Commissioner's orders.
I am glad to hear your things are coming on. I hope you are
getting stronger.
With our kindest regards,
Yours very sincerely,
E.E. GRIGG.
[NOTE BY THE AUTHOR.--_This letter, as will be seen from the date,
reached me after the bulk of the book had gone to press_.]
A PRIVATE LETTER FROM J. LARKIN, ESQ., WHO, DEPUTED BY THE GOVERNMENT,
PROCEEDED TO THE FRONTIER TO MAKE AN INQUIRY INTO MY CASE.
ALMORA, _August_ 10, 1898.
MY DEAR LANDOR,
Yours of the 21st ult. I am glad to hear that your book on your
experiences in Tibet is nearly finished. I wish you may have
every success with it, as it is only what you deserve after your
trials and hardships in that difficult land of the
ultra-conservative Lamas. I am not aware that the Indian papers
are attacking you. However, they apparently do not get reliable
information if they dispute the fact of your having entered
Tibet. We who were in some way connected with your rescue and
return have not been "interviewed," or we would give the
authentic account of the affair.
I was on a few days' leave at Naini Tal when I heard of your
capture, tortures and expulsion from Tibet. I was deputed by the
Government to proceed at once to the borders and make an inquiry
into the affair. I set off at once, and I met you at Askot, where
you were being looked after by the Rajbar. What a change in your
appearance! When I saw you standing among some of the Askot
natives I could with difficulty identify you. You were bronzed
and weather-beaten to such an extent that you were not
distinguishable from the natives. I do not think you can blame me
for not recognising you readily. Your forehead, nose and the part
of your face below your eyes were scarred, and helped to alter
your appearance very greatly. You did surprise me when you told
me that you would retrace your steps back to the borders on
learning from me that I was hastening on to inquire into your
case. I had then seen the twenty odd wounds you had on your face,
wrists, feet and back. I strongly protested against your
undertaking the fatiguing journey back across the perilous and
arduous road, as I knew you needed rest and good nourishment, and
thought it would be wisest for you to get back to Almora, and be
under a good doctor.
You, however, with your characteristic doggedness, meant to
accompany me, and I must perforce let you. I was glad in the long
run, for you enabled me to make a fuller inquiry than I would
otherwise have been able.
As you know, and as I reported to Government, I found after an
inquiry on the borders that you had with great difficulty and
manoeuvring succeeded in entering Tibet, evading the Jong Pen of
Taklakot, and the Barca Tarjum at Gyanema, and crossing the
Mariam La (Maium Pass) and getting as far as Tuksem (Toxem). You
had been deserted by all the mountaineers who had started with
you and who had promised to accompany you wherever you went. When
you were left with the two Kumaonis, you were surrounded and
captured by the _Governor of that part of Tibet_ and his men.
There, as a sequel to your innumerable fatigues, hardships,
desertions, and privations, you and your two followers were
ill-treated and tortured _by the Governor_. Have you not got a
copy of my official report? I remember you told me you were
applying for it. If you possess the copy, surely that will be
sufficient to confound your traducers. I saw from the public
papers that my report was to be laid on the table of the House of
Commons by the Secretary of State for India.
How did the photographs which we took up at the Lippu Pass turn
out? I should particularly like to have the one of the group on
the pass, and also the one where I am on horseback. I would also
like to have the one _I took of you having your matutinal bath
when the water froze in your hair and on your body_ as it was
thrown on you by Chanden Sing; and no wonder it did, as there
were ten to twelve feet of snow lying about, and a hardy Bhotia
(Shoka) mountaineer had only a few days prior to our arrival been
lost in the snow on crossing the pass.
Doubtless it will afford you some pleasure to learn that you have
earned quite a reputation among the natives, both Tibetan and
Bhotias (Shokas), on account of your universal cordiality,
generosity and pluck. They are constantly inquiring about you,
and relating your many good traits. Should you ever think of
returning here you have made many friends, and you would get a
very warm welcome from the natives.
Dr. H. Wilson tells me that, when he took you over from your
captors, _the officials of Tibet_, you were in a dying state, and
that he only just got you in the nick of time. How are your eyes
and spine? I trust they are quite well again. I look back with
pleasure to my tour up to the border with you, and our return
journey after your journey into Tibet proper, _where you were
subjected to tortures by the Governor of the district thereof_.
With every good wish,
Yours very sincerely,
(Signed) J. LARKIN.
[41] Maium Pass.
[42] Galshio = Gyatsho.
[43] Bhutias = Shokas.
[44] Raja = King.
[45] N.B.--Reproductions of some of the photographs mentioned are given
in this book.
INDEX
ABNORMALITIES and Deformities, 263
Aconite, 262
Adultery, 333
Almora, 6
Altitude, greatest reached, 142
Difficulties of travelling at great, 141, 150
Aneroids, 5
Antelopes, 342
Anti Ram Sah (banker), 63, 90
Askote, 14, 460
Rajiwar of, 15, 30, 31, 460
Rajiwar's Court, 15, 16
Authorities (Tibetan), 474, 475
BAGS, 279, 318
Barca Tarjum, 167, 445, 472
Bargain house, 62
Bathing, 132, 464
Bhot, 41, 468
Bitroguare River, 127
Black ointment, 321
Black tents, 232, 314, 315, 316, 317, 343, 345, 346, 349,
355, 367, 381, 431, 432
Black wolf, 218
Bleeding, 262
Boiling-point temperature at Gunkyo Lake, 301
at Rakstal and Mansarowar Lake, 217, 270
Bone-setting, 261
Boots, 227
_Boru_, 258
Botiyas, 43
Boundary between Nepal and Kumaon, 30, 54
Brahmaputra River, or Tsangpu, 306, 307, 308, 309, 313, 342, 429, 430
Ramifications of, 343
Sources of, 307, 430
Tributaries of, 308, 309, 314, 315, 348
Brigands, 53, 176, 192, 200, 216, 217, 220, 225, 229, 292, 293
Manner of speaking, 214
British Government, 452
British Museum of Natural History, 5
British prestige, 40
Brown, Miss, 33, 48
Buddi village, 62
Bungadhura Mountain, 38
Burns and their cure, 261
Butterflies, 134, 213
Byans and Chaudans, 475
CAMERAS, 454
Cannibalism, 335-337
Carpet and rug making, 44
Caves, 34, 62, 213
Chai-Lek, or Tcheto Pass, 62
Chanchubs, 248
Chanden Sing, 8-10, 352, 362, 368, 370, 374, 375, 376, 390, 424,
470, 472, 473, 474, 477, 478, 479, 480
Deposition of, 484
Chanden Sing, Flogging of, 370-372
Charm-boxes, 276
Charms, 240
_Chibbi_, 245, 252
Children, 229
Identification of, 332
Chinese steel, 278
Chipla Mountain, 14
Chipula Forests, 24
_Chiram_, 77
_Chokdens_, 160, 268, 337, 448
_Chokseh_, or table with offerings, 320
Chökti, 75, 114
Chongur Bridge, 113, 114
Circumambulations, 212, 243, 247, 328
Climate, 213
Change in the, 233, 307
Clothing, 6
Cold, 188, 209, 210, 218, 235, 347
Collecting materials, 5
Concubines, 333
Confiscated property, 490, 499
Consulting the oracle, 422
Converts, 49
Courtship, 332
Cracks in the ice, 82, 137, 141
Credentials, 2
Cremation, 334
Cowardice, 276, 439, 448
Cupping, 262
DAFIA, 14
Dancing, 305
Daramsalla, 14
Darma Yangti, 150
Deafness, 263
Delaling Monastery, 448
_Delang_ cake, 95
Dementia, 263
Dentistry, 259
Deolthal, 12
Deposition of witnesses, 477
Devil's Camp, 182, 184
Dharchula, 32, 33
Dholi River, 42
Diary, Notebooks, &c., 451
Diet, 421
Digestive powers, 258
Disposal of the dead
by Animals, 335
by Water, 335
Diving at great altitudes, 350
Divorce, 329
Dogmar, 442, 474
Dogpas, 200, 202
Dogs, 311, 410
Doktol Province, 306
Dola, 113
_Dongbo_, or tea churn, 318
Dongon River, 458
Dooti Mountain, 15
Drinking human blood, 256, 337
Dubart, 33
Dues paid by British subjects to Tibetans, 497
EARRINGS, 168, 229, 240, 326
Earthquake, 86
Elongated ears, 262
Evil omens, 365, 403
Evil qualities to be avoided, 248
Evil spirits, 257
Execution ground, 399
Exorcisms, 259, 260, 419
FAKIRS, 204
Fakirs and Mansarowar, 27
Features, 376
Fever and diseases, 257, 263
Fever-demon, 257
Fire-cure, 263, 266
Fish, 240
Fits, 263
Flying prayers, 46, 47, 305, 464
Food, notions of natives regarding, 153
Foreign Office, 466
Fossils, gigantic, 218
Frostbite, 130
Fuel, 131, 156, 347
Funerals, 334, 337
GAKKON River, 194, 442, 448, 450
Gangoli Hat, 11
Gangri Mountains, 211, 233, 301, 308
Garbyang, 63, 458, 460, 462, 471, 472
Gargia, 30
Gaussen, Lieut., 53, 66
Gelupkas, 249
Ghural, 82
Gibti, 57, 58
Goats, 344
Gobaria, Pundit, 63, 452, 453, 473, 484, 487
Deposition of, 488
Goître, 258
_Goling_, 317
_Gomba_, 232, 233, 448
Gori River, 30
Government allowance, 250
Government Inquiry and Report, 452, 460, 466, 477-489
Government of N.W. Provinces and Oudh, 469, 470
Conference held by Lieutenant-Governor of, 470
Government of India, 451, 460, 466
Government Report by J. Larkin, 471
Government, Reports to, 451, 471
Grand Lama, 252
Grigg, Col., Commissioner of Kumaon, 7, 469
Letter from, 499
Gungi, 76, 454
Gungi Shankom, 76, 77
Gunkyo Lake, 296, 301, 304
Gyanema, 445, 472, 475
Gyanema Fort, 163
Gyanema Lake, 162
Gyanema-Taklakot track, 194
Gyatsho, 397, 473, 474, 481, 485, 486, 492
HANDCUFFS, 387, 388, 473
Hare-lip, 258
Harness, 279
Headgear, 227, 393
Hernia, 258
Highways to Tibet, 35-40
Hillmen, 30
Himahlyas, 35-39, 41, 85, 136, 142, 148-154, 156, 308, 314, 340
Hindoo rites at Mansarowar, 242
Honesty and honour, 228
Horse races, 417
House of Commons, 500
Humli, Rongba encampments, 32
Hundes, 41
Hypnotism, 253, 418
IMAGES, 246
India, 2
Indian newspapers, 499
India Office, 466, 471
Injuries and wounds, 484
Injuries to spine, 457
Inlaid metals, 277
Insanity, 263
Inscriptions, 253, 282, 305
Islands, 213
JAGAT Sing, 15
Jealousy, 329
Jewellery, 240
Johari traders, 162
Jolinkan Pass, 128
River, 129
Jong Pen of Taklakot, 53, 65, 68, 90, 205, 438, 441, 453, 462,
464, 472, 475, 488, 489
His hatred of English subjects, 475
Julinba, 250
KACHI Ram, 113, 114
Kali River, 32, 56, 76, 90
Kalika, 32
_Kamarjuri_, the, 28
Kanwa, 76
Karak Sing Pal (Political Peshkàr), 438, 451, 452, 453,
458, 464, 468, 475, 484, 487, 488, 492
Deposition of, 488
Letters from, 497, 498
Kardam, 202, 442
Karko, 162
_Kata_, or veil of friendship, 288, 328, 355, 417, 420
Kathgodam, 469
Kelas, or Tize, 211, 213
Khela, 33
Kiang, or wild horse, 162, 213, 342
_Kiatsamba-pun_, 378
Kunjuk-Sum, 248
Kuti, 81, 123, 124
Castle at, 123
Kuti River, 76, 77, 82, 84, 85, 127, 135
Sources of, 148
Kutzia Daramsalla, 30