Hungry and worn--A sense of humour--Two buckets of milk--No food
to be obtained--Chanden Sing and Mansing in a wretched
state--Their fidelity--Exhaustion.
WE went on, hungry, worn out, with our feet lacerated, cheering one
another as best we could. We laughed at our troubles; we laughed at the
Tibetans and their comical ways; we laughed at everything and everybody,
until eventually we even laughed at ourselves. When you are hungry, the
sun seems slow at describing its daily semicircle from East to West; yet
though involuntary fasting gives you at first an acute pain in the
stomach, it doesn't become unbearable until after several days' absolute
want of food; that is to say, if you are in a way accustomed, as we were,
to extra long intervals between one meal and the next. When we got to our
third day's fasting we were keen enough for a meal; and, perceiving some
black tents close by the mountain side, about four miles out of our
course, we made for them with hungry haste. We purchased two bucketsful
of yaks' milk, one of which I drank there and then myself, the second
being equally divided between my two servants. That was all we could get.
They would sell us absolutely nothing else.
After this we moved forward again, making steady, and, if one allows for
the great elevation we were at, comparatively rapid progress; noting down
everything, and holding our own against all comers. We encountered
pleasant people, and some unpleasant ones, but, whether their manner was
courteous or the reverse, we could nowhere obtain food for love or money.
Poor Mansing and Chanden Sing, not having the same interest that I had in
my work to keep up their spirits, were now in a dreadful condition. Cold,
tired and starved, the poor wretches had hardly strength left to stand
on their feet, the soles of which were badly cut and very sore. It really
made my heart bleed to see these two brave fellows suffer as they did for
my sake; and yet no word of complaint came from them; not once did their
lips utter a reproach.
[Illustration: DRINKING OUT OF A BUCKET]
"Never, mind if we suffer or even die," said the poor fellows, when I
expressed my sympathy with them, "we will follow you as long as we have
strength to move, and we will stand by you, no matter what happens."
I had to relieve Chanden Sing of his rifle, as he was no longer able to
carry it. I myself, too, felt languid and exhausted as the days went by,
and we got scarcely any food. I cannot say that I experienced any very
severe physical pain. This was due, I think, to the fact that my
exhaustion brought on fever. I had, nevertheless, a peculiar feeling in
my head, as if my intellect, never too bright, had now been altogether
dulled. My hearing, too, became less acute; and I felt my strength slowly
dying down like the flame of a lamp with no more oil in it. The nervous
excitement and strain alone kept me alive, and I went on walking
mechanically.
[Illustration: SHRINE INSIDE TENT]