More robbers--The friends of Tibetan authorities--A snap-shot--A
meek lot--Prepossessing female and her curious ways--The purchase
of two yaks.
JUST before leaving the shores of the Rakstal I had a great slice of
luck. It happened thus. We had been detected by another band of dacoits
who were trying their hardest to overtake us. I had been spying them with
my telescope as they rode in our direction. They were driving some twenty
yaks in front of them at an unusually fast pace. The dacoits rode ponies.
We were about a mile and a half ahead of them now, and close to the edge
of the Devil's Lake. We saw them coming down the hillside at a breakneck
speed straight in our direction. It was evident that they were after us.
My men became terror-stricken when I gave the order to halt.
The band of dacoits approached and left the yaks in charge of two women.
When they galloped in a line towards us, my men, with the exception of
Chanden Sing and Mansing, were paralysed with fright.
They were now a hundred yards off. With loaded rifle in one hand, and my
camera in the other, I advanced to meet them, knowing that, with their
old-fashioned matchlocks, it takes them a considerable time to light the
fuse and fire a shot. Moreover, it is almost an impossibility for them to
fire on horseback, their weapons being heavy and cumbersome.
[Illustration: THE BANDITS LAID DOWN THEIR ARMS]
I focused them in my twin lens photographic apparatus, and waited till I
had them well in the field. I snapped the shot when they were only thirty
yards away, vaulting over their ponies in the act of dismounting. The
camera, having done its work, was quickly deposited on the ground, and
the rifle shouldered. I shouted to them to put down their weapons, and
to give force to my request I aimed at them with my Mannlicher.
A meeker lot of brigands I do not believe could be found, though people
of that kind are often brave when it is easy for them to be courageous.
Their matchlocks were unslung from their shoulders with remarkable
quickness and flung to the ground, and their jewelled swords were laid by
the side of their firearms. They went down on their knees, and taking off
their caps with both hands, put out their tongues in sign of salute and
submission, and I could not help taking another snap-shot at them in that
attitude, which was comical, to say the least of it.
My bearer, who had been left to look after the baggage, had placed
Mansing in charge, and was now by my side with the Martini-Henry, when
one of the women, riding astride, arrived on the scene. She was evidently
furious at the cowardice of her men, and I liked her for that. She jumped
off her steed, ejaculated words at the top of her voice, shaking her
fists at the men still kneeling before me, and at last, foaming with
rage, spat on them. While thus haranguing the band of highwaymen, she had
an annoying way of pointing at my baggage, but her speech seemed to have
little effect on the submissive crowd.
I, therefore, went up to her, patted her on the back, and gave her a
rupee to hold her tongue. She grabbed the coin and rubbed it on her skin
coat to make the silver shine. She instantly became calm, and rubbing the
coin until it was quite bright, she raised her fiery eyes, staring into
mine, and pulled out her tongue to express her thanks.
Kachi and Dola, who knew Tibetan well, were now summoned to address the
filibusters for me, and these two Shokas were in such trepidation that
they could hardly walk, much less speak. After a while, however, seeing
how well I had these supposed terrific rangers under control, they were
at last able to translate.
"I want them to sell me some yaks and some ponies," I said. "I will pay
handsomely for them."
"They say they cannot. The Tarjum will cut their heads off if he comes to
know it. They will only sell one or two yaks."
"Very good. How much do they want?"
"Two hundred silver rupees. But," added Dola, "sahib, do not give them
more than forty. That is a great deal more than they are worth. A good
yak costs from ten to sixteen rupees."
After some three or four hours' bargaining, during which time the bandits
descended gradually from two hundred rupees to forty and I rose from
twenty to that figure, we at last agreed, amidst the greatest excitement
on both sides, that their two best yaks should become my property. I
then, becoming quite friendly, purchased pack-saddles from them, and
sundry other curiosities. They gave me tea even and _tsamba_. The fiery
woman only had still a peculiar way of keeping her eyes fixed on my
baggage, and her longing for my property seemed to increase when she saw
me paying for the yaks. If she kept one eye on my goods, I kept both
there; and I took good care that my rifle was never out of my hand, and
that no one ever came too near me from behind.
[Illustration: PACK-SADDLES FOR YAKS]
We counted the money down, some fifty rupees, including all purchases.
Each coin was passed round and sounded by each of our sellers, and when
the entire sum was handed over the coins were passed back and recounted
so that there should be no mistake. Time in Tibet is not money, and my
readers must not be surprised when I tell them that counting, recounting
and sounding the small amount took two more hours. The two yaks were
eventually handed over to us. One, a huge long-haired black animal,
restless and powerful; the other equally black, strong and hairy, but
somewhat gentler.
To catch them, separate them from the herd, pass ropes through their
respective nostrils, and tie pack-saddles on their backs, were all
operations we as novices had to master. It was hard work indeed, but we
struggled till we succeeded.
When we parted we were good friends, the bandits behaving admirably, and
I made up my mind that I would at any time rather trust a bandit in Tibet
than an official.