An extensive valley--Kiang, or wild horse--Their strange
ways--The Gyanema fort--Apprehension at our appearance--A
parley--"Cut off our heads!"--Revolt and murder
contemplated--Hypocritical ways of Tibetan officials--Help
summoned from everywhere--Preparing for war.
IN front of our camp was a great stretch of flat alluvial land, which had
been, to all appearance, at some remote time the bed of a large lake
about ten miles long and fourteen wide. With my telescope I could see
plainly to 40° (b.m.), at the foot of a small hill, the camping-ground of
Karko. There were many tents, and my men seemed much reassured when by
their shape and colour we made them out to be those of the Joharis from
Milam, who come over at this place to trade with the Hunyas[16]. To
E.N.E. we had a valley extending for many miles between two high ranges,
and to the W. and N.W. were hills between us and the Darma Yangti,
flowing there in a N.N.E. direction. Beyond Karko to the North, a stretch
of water, the Gyanema Lake, showed brilliantly, and beyond it some
comparatively low hill ranges. In the distance, more snowy peaks were
visible.
On leaving camp we traversed the plain for six miles in a N.E. direction,
and then, on a course of 80° (b.m.), turned into a smaller valley well
enclosed by hills, following it for a distance of three or four miles.
This formed, as it were, an arm of the other large valley.
During our march we saw many large herds of _Kiang_ (wild horse). These
animals came quite close to us. They resembled zebras in shape and
movement of body, but in colour they were mostly light brown. The natives
regarded their near proximity as extremely dangerous; for their apparent
tameness is often deceptive, enabling them to draw quite close to the
unwary traveller, and then with a sudden dash seize him by the stomach,
inflicting a horrible wound with their powerful jaws. Their graceful and
coquettish ways were most taking; we occasionally threw stones at them to
keep them at a safe distance, but after cantering prettily away, they
would follow us again and come within a few yards. I succeeded in taking
some very good negatives, which unfortunately were afterwards destroyed
by the Tibetan authorities. I still have, however, some of the sketches I
made of them. We climbed over another hill range, and descended on the
other side into a grassy stretch of flat land, in the Northern portion of
which was a sheet of water. On a hill South of the lake stood the Gyanema
Khar or fort, a primitive tower-like structure of stones, with a tent
pitched over it to answer the purpose of roof, supporting a flagstaff, on
which flew two dirty white rags. They were not the colours of Hundes, but
only wind prayers. Lower down, at the foot of the hill, were two or three
large black tents and a small shed of stones. Hundreds of black, white,
and brown yaks were grazing on the green patches of grass.
The appearance of our party evidently created some apprehension, for we
had hardly shown ourselves on the summit of the col when from the fort a
gong began to sound loudly, filling the air with its unmelodious metallic
notes. A shot was fired. Soldiers with their matchlocks were seen running
here and there. They pulled down one of the black tents and hastily
conveyed it inside the fort, the greater part of the garrison also
seeking shelter within the walls with the _empressement_ almost of a
stampede. When, after some little time, they convinced themselves that we
had no evil intentions, some of the Tibetan officers, followed by their
men, came trembling to meet us. The doctor, unarmed, went ahead to talk
with them, whereas my bearer and I remained with the coolies for the
double purpose of protecting our baggage in case of a treacherous attack,
and of preventing my panic-stricken carriers from abandoning their loads
and escaping. But matters looked peaceful enough. Rugs were spread on the
grass, and eventually we all sat down. An hour's trying parley with the
Tibetan officers, during which time the same things were repeated over
and over again, led to nothing. They said they could on no account allow
any one from India, whether native or sahib, to proceed, and we must go
back. We on our side stated that we were doing no harm. We were pilgrims
to the sacred Lake of Mansarowar, only a few miles farther. We had gone
to much expense and trouble. How could we now turn back when so near our
goal? We would not go back, and trusted they would allow us to proceed.
We treated them courteously and kindly, and probably mistaking this for
fear they promptly took advantage of it, especially the Magbun[17] or
chief officer in charge of the Gyanema fort. His marked humility, of
which at first he had made so much display, suddenly turned into
arrogance. "You will have to cut off my head," said he with a vicious
countenance, "or rather I will cut off yours before I let you go another
step."
"Cut off my head?" cried I, jumping on my feet and shoving a cartridge
into my rifle.
"Cut off my head?" repeated my bearer, pointing with his Martini-Henry at
the official.
"Cut off our heads?" queried angrily the Brahmin and the two Christian
servants of Dr. Wilson, handling a Winchester and a couple of Gourkha
_kukris_ (large knives).
"No, no, no, no! Salaam, salaam, salaam!" poured forth the Magbun with
the celerity of speech only possessed by a panic-stricken man. "Salaam,
salaam," repeated he again, bowing down to the ground, tongue out, and
depositing his hat at our feet in a disgustingly servile manner. "Let us
talk like friends!"
The Magbun's men, no braver than their master, shifted their positions in
a nonchalant manner so as to be screened by their superiors in case of
our firing, and on second thoughts, judging even such a precaution to
ensure them but scanty safety, they one after the other got up, walked
steadily away for half-a-dozen steps, to show it was not fear that made
them leave, and then took to their heels.
The Magbun and the other officers who remained became more and more meek.
We spoke and argued in a friendly manner for two long hours, but with no
appreciable results. The Magbun could not decide of his own accord. He
would consult with his officers, and he could give us an answer no sooner
than the next morning. In the meantime he would provide for our general
comfort and ensure our safety, if we would encamp near his tent. This, of
course, I well knew to be an expedient to gain time, so as to send for
soldiers to Barca, north of the Rakstal Lake, as well as to all the
neighbouring camps. I frankly told him my suspicions, but added that I
wished to deal fairly with the Tibetan authorities before resorting to
force. I reminded the Magbun again, and made him plainly understand, that
we were merely peaceful travellers, and had not come to fight; that I was
paying tenfold for anything I purchased from him or his men, and was glad
to do so; but at the same time, let the hand beware that dared touch or
twist a single hair of any one belonging to my party! The Magbun declared
that he understood perfectly. He swore friendship, and as friends he
begged us to stop over the night near his camp. By the Sun and Kunju Sum
(Trinity) he gave a solemn oath that we should in no way be harmed. He
took humble leave of us and retired.
The doctor and I had been sitting in front, next were Chanden Sing, the
Brahmin, and the two Christians. The carriers were behind. When the
Magbun had gone I turned round to look at them. Behold, what a sight!
They one and all were crying miserably, each man hiding his face in his
hands. Kachi had tears streaming down his cheeks, Dola was sobbing, while
the Daku and the other Tibetan in my employ, who had for the occasion
assumed a disguise, were concealing themselves behind their loads.
Serious though the situation was, I could not help laughing at the
demoralisation of my men. We pitched our tents, and I had been sitting a
while inside one, registering my observations and writing up my diary,
when Kachi crept in, apparently in great distress. He seemed so upset
that he could hardly speak.
"Master!" he whispered. "Master! The Tibetans have sent a man to your
coolies threatening them that they must betray you or die. They must
abandon you during the night, and if you attempt to retain them, they
must kill you."
At the same time that this agent had been sent to conspire with my
coolies, other envoys of the Magbun brought huge masses of dry dung to
make our fires, conveying to me his renewed declarations of friendship.
Notwithstanding this, soldiers were despatched in every direction to call
for help. I saw them start: one went towards Kardam and Taklakot; a
second proceeded in the direction of Barca, and a third galloped to the
West.
My carriers were evidently preparing a _coup-de-main_ as I watched them
through an opening in the tent. They were busily engaged separating their
blankets and clothes from my loads, dividing the provisions among
themselves, and throwing aside my goods. I went out to them, patiently
made them repack the things, and cautioned them that I would shoot any
one who attempted to revolt or desert.
While the doctor and I sat down to a hearty meal, which rumours in camp
said would be our last, Chanden Sing was entrusted with the preparations
for war on our side. He cleaned the rifles with much care, and got the
ammunition ready, for he was longing to fight. The Brahmin, on whose
faithfulness we could also rely, remained cool and collected through the
whole affair. He was a philosopher, and never worried over anything. He
took no active part in preparing for our defence, for he feared not
death. God alone could kill him, he argued, and all the matchlocks in the
country together could not send a bullet through him unless God wished
it. And if it were the God's decree that he should die, what could be the
use of rebelling against it? The two converts, like good Christians, were
more practical, and lost no time in grinding the huge blades of their
_kukris_ to the sharpness of razors.
When darkness came a guard was placed, at a little distance off, all
round our camp. It seemed likely that a rush on our tent with the help of
my treacherous carriers was contemplated, should an opportunity occur.
One of us kept watch outside all through the night, and those inside lay
down in their clothes, with loaded rifles by them. I can't say that
either Dr. Wilson or I felt particularly uneasy, for the Tibetan soldiers
with their clumsy matchlocks, long spears, and jewelled swords and
daggers, inspired us more with admiration for their picturesque
appearance than with fear.
[16] Hunyas = Tibetans.
[17] _Magpun_ or _Magbun_ = General-in-Chief.