Snow and troublesome _débris_--The doctor's sufferings--Kachi
disabled--Further trials--A weird apparition--Delirium--All
safe--The descent.
THE Mangshan River rises from this glacier, but we left the glacier
(17,800 feet) to the right, and, turning sharply northwards, began our
ascent towards the pass. To gaze upon the incline before us was alone
sufficient to deter one from attempting to climb it, had one a choice; in
addition to this, the snow we struggled over was so soft and deep that we
sank into it up to our waists. Occasionally the snow alternated with
patches of loose _débris_ and rotten rock, on which we were no better
off; in fact, the fatigue of progressing over them was simply
overpowering. Having climbed up half-a-dozen steps among the loose
cutting stones, we felt ourselves sliding back to almost our original
point of departure, followed by a small avalanche of shifting material
that only stopped when it got to the foot of the mountain.
At 19,000 feet we were for a considerable distance on soft snow, covering
an ice-field with deep crevasses and cracks in it. We had to feel our way
with great caution, particularly as there was only the light of the moon
to depend upon.
Fortunately, as we rose higher, there were no more crevasses, but I began
to feel a curious exhaustion that I had never experienced before. At
sunset the thermometer which Kachi carried for me had descended forty
degrees within a few minutes, and the sudden change in the temperature
seemed to affect us all more or less; but we went on, with the exception
of Bijesing, who was seized with mountain sickness so violently that he
was unable to proceed. The doctor, too, a man of powerful build, was
suffering considerably. His legs, he said, had become like lead, and
each seemed to weigh a ton. The effort of lifting, or even moving, them
required all his energy. Although he was terribly blown and gasping for
breath, yet he would not give in, and he struggled on bravely until we
reached an altitude of 20,500 feet. Here he was seized with such
exhaustion and pain that he was unable to proceed. Kachi Ram, the Rongba
and I went ahead, but we also were suffering, Kachi complaining of
violent beating in his temples and loud buzzing in his ears. He also
gasped and staggered dangerously, threatening to collapse at any moment.
At 21,000 feet he fell flat on the snow. He was instantly asleep,
breathing heavily and snoring raspingly. His hands and feet were icy
cold, and I rubbed them. But what caused me more anxiety than anything
was the irregular beating and throbbing of his heart. I wrapped him up in
his blanket and my waterproof, and, having seen to his general comfort, I
shouted to the doctor, telling him what had happened, and that I was
going to push on as much higher as I could stand, the Rongba being now
the only one of the party who was able to keep up.
A thick mist came on and enveloped us, which considerably added to our
trials. Our efforts to get on after we left Kachi at 21,000 feet were
desperate, our lungs in convulsion as if about to burst, our pulses
hastened, our hearts throbbing (mine being ordinarily very regular) as if
they would beat themselves out of our bodies. Exhausted and seized by
irresistible drowsiness, the Rongba and I nevertheless at last reached
the top. It was a satisfaction to have got there, to have reached such an
altitude, although I had long realised the impossibility of getting my
men over by this way. It served me also to ascertain the amount of snow
on the other side of the range, which, when the fog lifted somewhat, I
found to be greater on the northern slope than on the southern. Although
almost fainting with fatigue, I registered my observations. The altitude
was 22,000 feet, the hour 11 P.M., and there was a strong, cutting
North-East wind. I had stupidly forgotten to take my thermometer out of
Kachi's pocket when I left him, and was unable to register the
temperature, although I had done so only a few minutes before I left
Kachi at 21,000 feet. The cold was intense. The stars were
extraordinarily brilliant and the moon shone bright for a while over the
panorama around me, and though it was a view of utter desolation, it had
nevertheless a curious indescribable fascination. Below me, to the
south, were mountainous masses buried in snow, and to the South-West and
North-East were peaks even higher than the one on which I stood. To the
north stretched the immense, dreary Tibetan plateau with undulations and
intricate hill ranges, beyond which a high mountain range with snow peaks
could just be perceived in the distance. I could see very little snow
near by, except on the northern slope of the range I was standing on, and
on the hill-tops which dotted the plateau.
I had barely taken it in, barely realised the wonder of nature asleep
when the mist again rose before me and I saw a gigantic phantom rising
out of it. It stood in the centre of a luminous circle, a tall, dark
figure in the folds of an enormous veil of mist. The effect was
overwhelming, and it was only after some moments that I realised that the
spectre wore my features, was a liquid presentation of my own proportions
colossally enlarged; that I stood in the centre of a lunar rainbow, and
that I was gazing on the reflection of myself in the mist. As I moved my
arms, my body, or my head, the ghostlike figure moved, and I felt myself
irresistibly changing my postures--oddly and nervously at first--then,
with an awakening sense of the ridiculous in my actions--so as to make my
image change and do as I did. I felt like a child placed for the first
time in front of a mirror.
The illustration on page 145 represents a solar spectre with circular
rainbow which I saw later on at a comparatively low altitude; the lunar
effect differed from this in that the colours of the rainbow were but
faintly distinguishable.
The Rongba had fallen exhausted, and I felt so faint with the awful
pressure on my lungs, that, despite all my efforts to resist it, I
collapsed on the snow. The coolie and I, shivering pitifully, shared the
same blanket for additional warmth. Both of us were seized with
irresistible drowsiness, as if we had taken a strong narcotic. I fought
hard against it, for I well knew that if my eyelids once closed they
would almost certainly remain so for ever. I called to the Rongba. He was
fast asleep. I summoned up my last atom of vitality to keep my eyes open.
The wind blew hard and biting, with a hissing noise. How that hiss still
sounds in my ears! It seemed like the whisper of death. The Rongba,
crouched with teeth chattering, was moaning, and his sudden shudders
bespoke great pain. It seemed only common charity to let him have the
blanket, which was in any case too small for both, so I wrapped it
tightly round his head and body. He was doubled up with his chin on his
knees. This small exertion was quite sufficient to make me lose the
tug-of-war in which I was pulling against nature. Just like the subject
who, under hypnotic influence, feels his own will and power suddenly
going from him, so I felt the entire hopelessness of further struggle
against the supernatural forces I was contending with. Falling backwards
on the snow, I made a last desperate effort to gaze at the glittering
stars ... my sight became dim and obscured....
For how long this semi-consciousness lasted, I do not know. "God! how
ghastly! Doctor! Kachi!" I tried to articulate. My voice seemed choked in
my throat. Was what I saw before me real? The two men, as if frozen to
death by the side of each other, seemed lying on that vast white sheet of
snow, motionless as statues of ice. In my dream I attempted to raise
them. They were quite rigid. I knelt beside them, calling them and
frantically striving to bring them back to consciousness and life.
Bewildered, I turned round to look for Bijesing, and, as I did so, all
sense of vitality seemed to freeze within me. I saw myself enclosed in a
quickly contracting tomb of transparent ice. It was easy to realise that
I too would shortly be nothing but a solid block of ice, like my
companions. My legs, my arms were already congealed. Horror-stricken as I
was at the approach of such a hopeless, ghastly death, my sensations were
accompanied by a languor and lassitude indescribable but far from
unpleasant. To some extent thought or wonderment was still alive. Should
I dwindle painlessly away, preferring rest and peace to effort, or should
I make a last struggle to save myself? The ice seemed to close in more
and more every moment. I was choking.
I tried to scream! to force myself through the suffocating weight on me!
I gave a violent plunge, and then everything had vanished. The frozen
Kachi, the doctor, the transparent tomb! Nothingness!
[Illustration: THE SPECTRE AND CIRCULAR RAINBOW]
At last I was able to open my eyes, which ached as if needles had been
stuck into them. It was snowing hard. I had temporarily lost the use of
my legs and fingers. They were frozen. So violent was the shock of
realising how very near death I had really been, that in waking up from
the ghastly nightmare I became acutely alive to the full importance of
instantly making my way down to a lower level. I was already covered with
a layer of snow, and I suppose it was the frigid pressure on my forehead
that caused the dream. It is, however, probable that, had it not been
for the hideous vision that shook my nerves free of paralysing torpor, I
should never have awakened from that spell-bound silence.
I sat up with difficulty, and by beating and rubbing them, slowly
regained the use of my lower limbs. I roused the Rongba, rubbed him, and
shook him till he was able to move. We began our descent.
No doubt the satisfaction of going up high mountains is very great; but
can it be compared to that of coming down?
Descending was dangerous but not wearisome. The incline being extremely
steep, we took gigantic strides on the snow, and when we came to patches
of _débris_, we slid ten or fifteen feet each step amidst a deafening
roar from the huge mass of loose stones set in motion by our descent.
[Illustration: "I ROUSED THE RONGBA"]
"Hark!" I said to the Rongba, "what is that?"
We waited till all was silence, and with hands up to our ears listened
attentively. It was still snowing.
"_Ao, ao, ao! Jaldi ao! Tumka hatte?_ Come, come, come quickly! Where are
you?" cried a faint distressed voice from far down below.
We quickened our pace; having hardly any control over our legs, our
descent was precipitous. The snow-fall ceased and we became enveloped in
a thick mist which pierced into our very bones.
Guided by the anxious cries of the doctor, whose voice we recognised, we
continued our breakneck journey downward. The cries got more and more
distinct, and at last, to my great joy, we came face to face with Wilson,
who, thank Heaven, was alive but almost helpless, as he said his legs
were still like lead, and it was all he could do to move them.
Owing to his anxiety about us, he had been shouting for a long time, and
getting no answer, he became very uneasy, all the more so as he found he
could in no way come to our help. He had quite given us up for lost.
We looked for and found Kachi. He had slept like a top, curled up in his
warm blanket and my overcoat, and was now quite refreshed, so all united
again, we continued our race downwards, exchanging our experiences and
sensations. We had no very serious mishaps, and life and strength
gradually came back to us again when we descended to lower elevations.
The ascent from the glacier at the bottom of the mountain to the summit
occupied four and a half hours; the precipitous descent, without counting
stoppages, only the ninth part of that time, the distance covered being
about one mile and three quarters.
Over the same trying stony valley we reached camp during the early hours
of the morning. The distance from camp to the altitude reached and back
was over ten miles; therefore, during the twenty-four hours I had
altogether gone eighteen miles (quite a record at such great altitudes).
I may here also remark that, since breakfast at six o'clock the previous
morning, I had taken no food of any kind, thus making an interval of
twenty-three hours between one meal and the next. The anxiety of my men
in camp was intense. They had lost all hope of seeing us again, and they
were quite reassured when I told them that we would proceed later in the
morning by the Lumpiya Pass, which was believed to be far easier.
In no time they had lighted a fire of dung, and after having had (at five
o'clock in the morning) a handsome feed of rice, _chapatis_, extract of
meat, and strengthening emergency food, we felt we were entitled to a
well-deserved rest.