CHAPTER I_In the forbidden land

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IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND

_Times_: "The ordinary reader will be struck with the portraits, which

show that in a very few weeks he must have endured a lifetime of

concentrated misery. Other travellers, no doubt, have gone further, but

none who have escaped with their lives have fared worse.... Mr. Landor

tells a plain and manly tale, without affectation or bravado. It is a

book, certainly, that will be read with interest and excitement."

_Athenæum_: "The account he has written of his travels and adventures is

vivid and often fascinating. His frequent notices of curious customs are

full of interest, and numerous illustrations from photographs or sketches

taken on the spot render this one of the most attractive records of

travel published recently."

_Guardian_: "Life, according to Mr. Landor, has 'barely a dull moment,'

and the gloomiest of us will admit that this is at least true of that

part of life which may be devoted to the reading of his latest book."

_World_: "He has contrived, even in circumstances of cruel disadvantage,

to present a wonderfully minute and impressive series of pictures of the

life, manners, and customs of the Tibetans. No less powerful and vivid

are his descriptions of the scenery and natural phenomena of the

Forbidden Land, which are reinforced by an ample series of illustrations

that attain a high standard of artistic excellence. Mr. Landor's bitter

experiences have had at least the advantage of providing him with

material for the most absorbing travel book produced within recent

times."

_Daily Telegraph_: "Mr. Landor's story is one of the most extraordinary

tales of modern times, yet even the most sceptical reader will admire the

vigour with which it is told, and the endurance with which the explorer

and his faithful servants bore up against their savage captors."

_Standard_: "The book fascinates ... The verbal pictures it gives are

extremely vivid, and the effect of them is greatly heightened by the

numerous drawings and photographs by the author. Mr. Landor is an artist

as well as traveller and writer, and he knows how to use his pencil and

brush to emphasise his letter-press. Whatever may be said of the wisdom

of his enterprises, his book is certainly a remarkable contribution to

the literature of modern travel."

_Daily News_: "The great library of travel in the East has not received

for many a year a more important addition than this bright, picturesque,

and instructive volume."

_Daily Chronicle_: "Mr. Landor is an artist as well as a writer, and this

handsome volume is most lavishly illustrated with sketches and

photographs. Apart from its intense interest as a story of stirring

adventure, the book is a valuable storehouse of information on Southern

Tibet and its people, and on the little known Indian district of Northern

Kumaon. This is surely a record of devotion to geographical science such

as no previous explorer has been able to show."

[Illustration: A. HENRY SAVAGE LANDOR AND HIS TWO FAITHFUL SERVANTS]

IN THE FORBIDDEN LAND

AN ACCOUNT OF A JOURNEY IN TIBET

CAPTURE BY THE TIBETAN AUTHORITIES

IMPRISONMENT, TORTURE, AND

ULTIMATE RELEASE

A. HENRY SAVAGE LANDOR

AUTHOR OF

"_COREA, OR THE LAND OF THE MORNING CALM_,"

"_ALONE WITH THE HAIRY AINU_," _ETC._

ALSO VARIOUS OFFICIAL DOCUMENTS, INCLUDING THE ENQUIRY

AND REPORT BY J. LARKIN, ESQ., APPOINTED

BY THE GOVERNMENT OF INDIA

_With Two Hundred and Fifty-one Illustrations

And a Map_

LONDON

WILLIAM HEINEMANN

1899

_First Edition (2 Vols. 8vo), October 1898_

_New Impression (2 Vols. 8vo), November 1898_

_New Edition (1 Vol. 8vo), May 1899_

_This Edition enjoys copyright in all

Countries signatory to the Berne

Treaty, and is not to be imported into

the United States of America._

I DEDICATE THIS BOOK

MY FATHER & MOTHER

PREFACE

IN this book I have set down the record of a journey in Tibet undertaken

by me during the spring, summer and autumn of 1897. It is illustrated

partly from my photographs and partly from sketches made by me on the

spot. Only as regards the torture scenes have I had to draw from memory,

but it will be easily conceded that their impression must be vivid enough

with me.

The map is made entirely from my surveys of an area of twelve thousand

five hundred square miles in Tibet proper. In Chapter VI. the altitudes

of such high peaks in India as Nanda Devi and others are taken from the

Trigonometrical Survey, and so are the positions fixed by astronomical

observations of the starting and terminating points of my surveys at the

places where I entered and left Tibet.

In the orthography of geographical names I have adopted the course

advised by the Royal Geographical Society--viz., to give the names their

true sound as they are locally pronounced, and I have made no exception

even for the grand and poetic "Himahlya" which is in English usually

distorted into the unmusical and unromantic word "Himalayas."

I submit with all deference the following geographical results of my

expedition:

The solution of the uncertainty regarding the division of the Mansarowar

and Rakstal Lakes.

The ascent to so great an altitude as 22,000 feet, and the pictures of

some of the great Himahlyan glaciers.

The visit to and the fixing of the position of the two principal sources

of the Brahmaputra, never before reached by a European.

The fact that with only two men I was able to travel for so long in the

most populated part of Tibet.

In addition to the above, I am glad to state that owing to the publicity

which I gave on my return to the outrageous Tibetan abuses taking place

on British soil, the Government of India at last, in the summer of 1898,

notified the Tibetan authorities that they will no longer be permitted to

collect Land Revenue from British subjects there. This fact gives me

special satisfaction, because of the exceptional courtesy and kindness

bestowed on me by our mountain tribesmen, the Shokas.

The Government Report of the official Investigation of my case, as well

as other documents substantiating the details of my narrative, are

printed in an appendix.

A. H. S. L.

_May 1899_

CONTENTS

PREFACE p. ix

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS p. xxii

FROM LONDON TO NAINI TAL Pp. 1-3

Loads--A set of useful pack-saddle cases--Provisions and scientific

outfit--Clothes and shoes--Medicines--Under way--The first

march--Servants--How I came to employ faithful Chanden Sing pp. 4-10

III

Pithoragarh--Fakir women--A well-ventilated abode--Askote--The

Rajiwar and his people Pp. 11-16

The Raots--A slippery journey--Superstitious notions--Anger and

jealousy--Friends--To the homes of the

savages--Photography--Habitations Pp. 17-26

A pilgrim from Mansarowar Lake--The spirits of the mountains--A

safeguard against them--Tibetan encampments--The Rajiwar--A

waterfall--Watermills Pp. 27-34

Highways and trade routes--The Darma route--The Dholi River--A rough

track connecting two valleys--Glaciers--Three ranges and their

peaks--Altitudes--_Darma, Johar_, and the _Painkhanda_ Parganas--The

highest peak in the British Empire--Natural boundaries Pp. 35-40

VII

The word _Bhot_ and its meaning--Tibetan influence--Tibetan

abuses--The ever-helpful Chanden Sing--The first Shoka

village--Chanden Sing in disgrace--Weaving-loom--Fabrics--All's well

that ends well Pp. 41-45

VIII

Prayers by wind-power--Photography under difficulties--A night of

misery--Drying up--Two lady missionaries--Their valuable work--An

interesting dinner party--An "eccentric" man's tea party Pp. 46-52

Discouraging reports--A steep ascent--How I came to deserve the name

of "monkey"--Hard at work--Promoted in rank--Collapse in a gale of

wind--Time and labour lost Pp. 53-56

The _Nerpani_, or "waterless track"--Exaggerated accounts--A long

shot--The rescue of two coolies--Picturesque Nature--An involuntary

shower-bath--The _Chai_ Pass Pp. 57-62

A series of misfortunes--Tibetan atrocities on British

subjects--Tibetan exactions--Revolting cruelty to one of her

Majesty's subjects--Assault on a British officer--A smart British

Envoy Pp. 63-68

XII

Tibetan threats--My birthday--Ravenous dogs--A big dinner--Shoka

hospitality Pp. 69-73

XIII

Shoka hospitality--How I obtained much information--On a

reconnoitring trip--A terrible slide Pp. 74-80

XIV

A palaver--To see is to believe--Dangers and perils on the snow and

ice--_Thar_ and _Ghural_--Stalking--A tiring climb to 16,000

feet--The collapse of a snow bridge Pp. 81-85

An earthquake--Curious notions of the natives--A Shoka tailor and

his ways--The arrival of silver cash--Two rocks in the

Kali--Arrogance of a Tibetan spy Pp. 86-91

XVI

The _Rambang_--Shoka music--Love-songs--Doleful singing--Abrupt

ending--Solos--Smoking--When marriage is contemplated--The

_Delang_--Adultery--Punishment Pp. 92-97

XVII

FUNERAL RITES: Departure of the Soul--Cremation--Amusement of the

dead man's soul--The lay figure--Feasting--Doleful

dance--Transmigration of the soul--Expensive ceremonies--Offerings

before the lay figure--Dancing and contortions--Martial dances--Solo

dances--The animal to be sacrificed and the lay figure--Chasing the

animal from the village--Tearing out its heart--The yak driven over

a precipice--Head shaving--A sacred cave Pp. 98-110

XVIII

Touching Shoka farewell--Feelings curiously expressed--Sobs and

tears--The start--A funereal procession--Distressed father and

mother--Kachi and Dola the worse for drink--Anxious moments--The

bridge destroyed Pp. 111-115

XIX

A dangerous track--Perilous passage--A curious bridge over a

precipice--Pathetic Shoka custom--Small misadventures--A grand

reception--Tea for all tastes Pp. 116-119

Dr. Wilson joins my expedition for a few marches--What misdeeds a

photographic camera can do--Weighing, dividing, and packing

provisions--Two extra men wanted--The last friendly faces Pp.

120-122

XXI

The Kuti Castle--Under way--Our first disaster--A cheerful and a

sulky coolie--Mansing--A brigand--A strange medley of followers--A

character--Tailoring--Fields of stones--Troublesome rivers--The

Jolinkan or Lebung Pass--Sense of humour--Pleased with small

comforts Pp. 123-130

XXII

Want of fuel--Cooking under difficulty--Mansing lost and

found--Saved from summary justice--Tibetan visitors--We purchase

sheep--The snow-line--Cold streams--The petrified _chapati_ and

human hand Pp. 131-136

XXIII

The scout's return--A small exploring party--The Mangshan glacier

Pp. 137-140

XXIV

Snow and troublesome _débris_--The doctor's sufferings--Kachi

disabled--Further trials--A weird apparition--Delirium--All

safe--The descent Pp. 141-147

XXV

The sources of the Kuti River--The Lumpiya glacier--The summit of

the range--Bird's-eye view of Tibet--Rubso frozen almost to

death--The Lumpiya Pass--Two coolies in distress Pp. 148-153

XXVI

Mysterious footprints--Brigand or spy?--Passes and tracks--Intense

cold--No fuel--A high flat plateau--Fuel at last!--Two spies in

disguise--What they took us for Pp. 154-157

XXVII

Lama Chokden--A Tibetan guard--The sacred Kelas--Reverence of my men

for the sacred Mountain--Trying hard to keep friends with the

gods--_Obos_--Water flowing to us Pp. 158-161

XXVIII

An extensive valley--Kiang, or wild horse--Their strange ways--The

Gyanema fort--Apprehension at our appearance--A parley--"Cut off our

heads!"--Revolt and murder contemplated--Hypocritica ways of Tibetan

officials--Help summoned from everywhere--Preparing for war Pp.

162-166

XXIX

Arrival of a high official--The Barca Tarjum--A tedious palaver--The

Tarjum's anxiety--Permission to proceed--A traitor--Entreated to

retrace our steps--Thirty armed horsemen--A pretty speech Pp.

167-173

XXX

Spying our movements--Disguised sepoys--A gloomy

look-out--Troublesome followers--Another march back--An amusing

incident Pp. 174-177

XXXI

An attempt that failed--A resolution--A smart Shoka lad--The plucky

Chanden Sing proposes to accompany me--Mansing the leper becomes my

servant's servant Pp. 178-181

XXXII

"Devil's Camp"--A fierce snowstorm--Abandoning our tents--Dangers

and perils in prospect--Collecting the men--One load too

many!--Another man wanted and found--A propitious night--Good-bye to

Wilson--The escape--Brigands Pp. 182-186

XXXIII

S.E. wind--Hungry and half frozen--Lakes at 18,960 feet above

sea-level--Cold food at high altitudes--Buried in snow--Mansing's

sufferings--Fuel at last Pp. 187-191

XXXIV

Dacoits--No nonsense allowed--A much-frequented region--A

plateau--The Gyanema-Taklakot track--A dangerous spot--Soldiers

waiting for us--Burying our baggage--Out of provisions--A fall into

the Gakkon River--A bright idea--Nettles our only diet Pp. 192-197

XXXV

All that remained of my men's provisions--The plan to enter the

fort--Appearance of yaks--A band of brigands--Erecting

fortifications--Changes in the temperature--Soldiers in search of us

Pp. 198-201

XXXVI

"Terror Camp"--Two more messengers leave camp--A tribe of Dogpas--A

strange sahib--Our messengers return from Taklakot--The account and

adventures of their mission--In great distress--Two fakirs who

suffered through me--Five hundred rupees offered for my head--The

Shokas want to abandon me--A plot--How it failed Pp. 202-206

XXXVII

A Tibetan guard's encampment--Nattoo volunteers to be a

guide--Treachery and punishment of the Shokas--All ways forward

barred to me--Evading the soldiers by another perilous march at

night--Mansing again lost--A marvellous phenomenon--Sufferings of my

men--Severe cold Pp. 207-210

XXXVIII

Night marching--The Lafan and Mafan Lakes--Tize, the sacred

Kelas--Rhubarb--Butterflies--A hermit Lama--More Dacoits--Surrounded

by them--Routed Pp. 211-216

XXXIX

Spied and followed by robbers--Jogpas' hospitality--Hares--Tibetan

charms resisted--Attempt to snatch Chanden Sing's rifle out of his

hands--The ridge between the Rakas and Mansarowar Lakes Pp. 217-219

More robbers--The friends of Tibetan authorities--A snap-shot--A

meek lot--Prepossessing female and her curious ways--The purchase of

two yaks Pp. 220-224

XLI

Tibetan coats, hats, and boots--Why a Tibetan prefers to leave half

the chest and one arm bare--Ornamentations--Manner and

speech--Ignorance and superstition--Way of eating--Jogpa women and

children--Head-dress Pp. 225-230

XLII

A Daku's strange ideas--The ridge between the two lakes--Black

tents--Confronting the two lakes--A chain of high

peaks--Gombas--Change in the weather Pp. 231-234

XLIII

The Langa Tsangpo--A terrific storm--Drenched to the skin--Heavy

marching--Against the gods--Difficulty in finding the Lamasery and

village--A bark!--Arrival at last--Gentle tapping--Under a roof Pp.

235-238

XLIV

The interior of a _serai_--Vermin--Fish, local jewellery, and

pottery for sale--Favourite shapes and patterns--How pottery is made

Pp. 239-241

XLV

Friendly Lamas--Chanden Sing and Mansing purified--Mansing's

sarcasm--Pilgrims to Mansarowar and their privileges--For

luck!--Outside the Gomba Pp. 242-244

XLVI

Entering the Lamasery--The Lama's dwelling--Novices--Were we in a

trap?--Images--Oblations--Urghin--The holy water, the veil of

friendship, and absolution--Musical instruments, books, &c.--God and

the Trinity--Heaven and hell--A mystery Pp. 245-248

XLVII

The Jong Pen's statements regarding me--Sects of

Lamas--Lamaseries--Government allowance--Ignorance of the

crowds--How Lamas are recruited--Lamas, novices, and menials--Dances

and hypnotism--Infallibility--Celibacy and

vice--Sculptors--Prayer-wheels and revolving

instruments--Nunneries--Human bones for eating vessels and musical

instruments--Blood-drinking Pp. 249-256

XLVIII

Illnesses and remedies--Curious theories about fever--Evil

spirits--Blacksmith and dentist--Exorcisms--Surgical

operations--Massage and cupping--Incurable

illnesses--Deformities--Deafness--Fits and

insanity--Melancholia--Suicides Pp. 257-264

XLIX

A Tibetan medicine-man--Lumbago, and a startling cure for

it--Combustible fuses--Fire and butter--Prayers, agony and

distortions--Strange ideas on medicine Pp. 265-267

Tucker village--Chokdens--Houses--Flying prayers--Soldiers or

robbers?--A stampede--Fresh

provisions--Disappointment--Treachery--Shokas leave

me--Observations--Five men, all counted! Pp. 268-270

The start with a further reduced party--A reconnaissance--Natural

fortress--Black tents and animals--On the wrong tack--Slings and

their use--A visit to a Tibetan camp--Mistaken for

brigands--Bargaining and begging Pp. 271-275

LII

What the men were like--Their timidity--Leather work--Metal

work--Blades and swords--Filigree--Saddles and harness--Pack saddles

Pp. 276-279

LIII

Rain in torrents--A miserable night--A gorge--A gigantic

inscription--Sheltered under boulders--A fresh surprise--Only two

followers left Pp. 280-282

LIV

My time fully occupied--Our own yak drivers--A heavy blow--Along the

stream--Soldiers in pursuit of us--Discovered Pp. 283-286

An interview--Peace or war?--Gifts and the scarf of friendship--The

_Kata_--The end of a friendly visit Pp. 287-289

LVI

Rain in torrents--A swampy plain--The sun at last--Our yaks stolen

and recovered Pp. 290-294

LVII

Travelling Tibetans--Over a high pass--A friendly meeting--A

proffered banquet--Ascent to 20,000 feet--Looking for the Gunkyo

Lake--Surprised by a phantom army Pp. 295-297

LVIII

A sleepless night--Watching our enemy--A picturesque sight--A

messenger--Soldiers from Lhassa--Taken for a Kashmeree--The Gunkyo

Lake Pp. 298-301

LIX

In pleasant company--Unpopularity of the Lamas--Soldiers--Towards

the Maium Pass--Grass--Threats--Puzzled Tibetans--The Maium

Pass--Obos Pp. 302-305

The Maium Pass--Into the Yutzang province--Its capital--The Doktol

province--Orders disregarded--The sources of the Brahmaputra--Change

in the climate--The valley of the Brahmaputra--Running risks Pp.

306-308

LXI

Expecting trouble--Along the Brahmaputra--A thunderstorm--A

dilemma--A dangerous river--Swamped--Saved--Night disturbers--A new

friend Pp. 309-312

LXII

Leaving the course of the river--A pass--An arid plain--More

vanishing soldiers--Another river--A _mani_ wall--_Mirage?_--A large

Tibetan encampment--The chain of mountains north of us Pp. 313-315

LXIII

A commotion--An invitation declined--The tents--Delicacies--The

_Chokseh_ Pp. 316-320

LXIV

Refusal to sell food--Women--Their looks and characteristics--The

_Tchukti_--A Lhassa lady Pp. 321-326

LXV

Polyandry--Marriage ceremonies--Jealousy--Divorce--Identification of

children--Courtship--Illegitimacy--Adultery Pp. 327-333

LXVI

Tibetan funerals--Disposal of their dead--By cremation--By

water--Cannibalism--Strange beliefs--Revolting barbarity--Drinking

human blood--The saints of Tibet Pp. 334-337

LXVII

Another commotion--Two hundred soldiers--A stampede--Easy

travelling--A long _mani_ wall--Mosquitoes Pp. 338-341

LXVIII

Washing-day--A long march--_Kiang_ and antelope--Benighted--The

purchase of a goat--Ramifications of the Brahmaputra--A

détour--Through a swamp--Mansing again lost and found Pp. 342-345

LXIX

The alarm given--Our bad manners--A peaceful settlement--A large

river--Gigantic peak--Again on marshy soil Pp. 346-348

LXX

Another Tibetan encampment--Uncontrollable animals--A big

stream--Washed away--In dreadful suspense--Rescuing the yak--Diving

at great altitudes and its effects--How my two followers got

across--A precarious outlook and a little comfort Pp. 349-351

LXXI

Hungry and worn--A sense of humour--Two buckets of milk--No food to

be obtained--Chanden Sing and Mansing in a wretched state--Their

fidelity--Exhaustion Pp. 352-354

LXXII

Eighty black tents--Starved--Kindly natives--Presents--Ando and his

promises--A Friendly Lama--A low pass--My plans Pp. 355-357

LXXIII

Strange noises--Ando the traitor--Purchasing provisions and

ponies--A handsome pony--Decoyed away from my tent and

rifles--Pounced upon--The fight--A prisoner Pp. 358-361

LXXIV

Chanden Sing's plucky resistance--Mansing secured--A signal--A

treacherous Lama--Confiscation of baggage--Watches, compasses and

aneroids--Fear and avidity--The air-cushion--Dragged into the

encampment Pp. 362-366

LXXV

A warning to my men--Calm and coolness--The Pombo's tent--Chanden

Sing cross-examined and flogged Pp. 367-369

LXXVI

Led before the tribunal--The Pombo--Classical Tibetan beyond

me--Chanden Sing lashed--The Lamas puzzled--A sudden change in the

Pombo's attitude Pp. 370-373

LXXVII

My note-books and maps--What the Lamas wanted me to say--My

refusal--Anger and threats--Ando the traitor--Chanden Sing's

heroism--A scene of cruelty--Rain Pp. 374-376

LXXVIII

A high military officer--A likely friend--A soldier and not a

Lama--His sympathy--Facts about the Tibetan army Pp. 377-379

LXXIX

Sarcasm appreciated--Kindness--A change for the worse--The place for

an Englishman--Vermin--A Tibetan prayer Pp. 380-382

LXXX

The Rupun as a friend--Treated with respect and deference--Fed by

the Rupun and soldiers--Improving my knowledge of Tibetan Pp.

383-385

LXXXI

A bearer of bad news--Marched off to the mud-house--Mansing--Insults

and humiliations--Iron handcuffs instead of ropes--The Rupun's

sympathy--No more hope--In the hands of the mob Pp. 386-389

LXXXII

A pitiful scene--A struggle to get to Chanden Sing--Brutally

treated--A torturing saddle--Across country at a gallop--A spirited

pony--Sand deposits and hills--Speculation--More horsemen coming

towards us Pp. 390-392

LXXXIII

At an unpleasant pace--Drawing near the cavalcade--A picturesque

sight--A shot fired at me--Terrible effects of the spikes along my

spine--The rope breaks--An ill omen--A second shot misses

me--Arrows--The end of my terrible ride Pp. 393-397

LXXXIV

Intense pain--Hustled to the execution-ground--Stretched and

tied--Thirsting for blood--A parade of torturing appliances--The

music--The _Taram_ Pp. 398-401

LXXXV

Bleeding all over--Insulted and spat upon--"Kill him!"--Urging on

the executioner--Refusal to stoop--An unpleasant sword exercise--The

execution suspended Pp. 402-405

LXXXVI

Mansing arrives--A pretence of killing him--Our execution

postponed--Fed by the Lamas Pp. 406-407

LXXXVII

Happiness checked--Stretched on the rack--Mansing shares my

fate--Drenched and in rags--An unsolved mystery Pp. 408-410

LXXXVIII

Mansing partially untied after twelve hours on the rack--Numbed--How

the brain works under such circumstances--My scientific

instruments--The end of my photographic plates--A paint-box accused

of occult powers--An offer refused--Courtesy and cruelty combined

Pp. 411-412

LXXXIX

An unknown article in Tibet--My sponge bewitched--A Lama fires my

Martini-Henry--The rifle bursts Pp. 413-415

A consultation--Untied from the rack--The most terrible twenty-four

hours of my life--I lose the use of my feet--Circulation

returning--Intense pain--Sports Pp. 416-417

XCI

A great relief--The Pombo's attentions--A weird hypnotic dance Pp.

418-420

XCII

Compliments exchanged--A poisoned drink proffered--In acute

pain--Uncertainty as to our fate--Working the oracle--My webbed

fingers Pp. 421-423

XCIII

Our lives to be spared--An unpleasant march--Chanden Sing still

alive--A sleepless night--Towards the frontier--Long and painful

marches--How we slept at night--A map drawn with blood Pp. 424-428

XCIV

South of the outward journey--Severity of our guard--Ventriloquism

and its effects--Terrible but instructive days--The Southern source

of the Brahmaputra--Leaving Yutzang Pp. 429-430

XCV

Easier times--Large encampments--Suffocating a goat--A Tarjum's

encampment--Tokchim--Old friends--Musicians--Charity Pp. 431-434

XCVI

Towards Mansarowar--Mansing's vision--Bathing in Mansarowar Pp.

435-437

XCVII

Suna--Wilson and the Political Peshkar across the frontier--A

messenger--Our progress stopped--Diverting us over the Lumpiya

Pass--Condemned to certain death--We attack our guard--Lapsang and

the Jong Pen's private secretary--A document--Nearing

Kardam--Retracing our steps--Dogmar Pp. 438-444

XCVIII

A Commotion--The arrival of an army--Elected General-in-chief--How

we were to slaughter the Jong Pen's soldiers--My men lay down their

arms--Towards Taklakot--Delaling and Sibling--Taklakot at last Pp.

445-449

XCIX

Free at last--Among friends--Forgetting our past

troubles--Confiscated baggage returned--A scene with Nerba--Suna's

message delivered--How our release was brought about--Across the

frontier--Photography at Gungi Pp. 450-456

Civilisation once more--Paralysis--The Tinker Pass in Nepal--Kindly

natives--Mr. Larkin--Government Inquiry--Back to Tibet--Final

good-bye to the Forbidden Land--The return journey--Farewell to

Mansing--Home again Pp. 457-470

APPENDIX Pp. 471-501

INDEX Pp. 503-508

HEINEMANN PUBLICATIONS AND ANNOUNCEMENTS

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

A. Henry Savage Landor and his Two Faithful Servants Frontispiece

A Chinese Passport 1

My Faithful Companion 7

My Start from Naini Tal 9

Castle at Pithoragarh 12

Lepers 13

My Abode at Askote 14

A Young Man 17

Raot on Tree 18

Raots 19

Head of Young Man 21

Two Men with Children sitting down 22

A Young Man 24

Raot Women of the Forest 26

The Rajiwar of Askote, his Brother and Son 27

Fakir Returning from Mansarowar 28

The Rajiwar and his Brother in Dandies 32

View of the Himahlyas--showing Nanda Devi and Trisul Peaks 35

Darma Shokas and Tibetans 36

View of the Himahlyas. Showing Nanda Devi and Trisul Peaks 37

Shoka Weavers 42

Shrine and Flying Prayers 46

Wrinkled Shoka 48

Lal Sing Tokudar and his Brother 49

House of a Wealthy Shoka 51

The Tent 55

Nerpani Road 57

The Nerpani Road 58

The Nerpani Track 59

The Nerpani Road 59

The Chai-Lek (Pass) 60

A Narrow Gorge between Two Mountains 61

The Gates of Garbyang 64

Matan Sing Chaprassi 66

Narenghiri Chaprassi 66

Garbyang 67

The House where I Stayed at Garbyang 69

Shoka House with Strange Ladder 71

Shoka Houses 72

Shoka Child Smeared with Butter which is Left to be Absorbed in the Sun 73

Shoka Child being Smeared with Butter 75

The Master of a High School, Altitude 10,940 Feet 76

Gungi Shankom 77

Zazzela Mount, near Gungi 78

Involuntary Tobogganing 79

Chiram 80

Kuti 82

Snow Bridges over the Kuti River 83

Old Shoka Woman Smoking 84

A Well-attended School 87

My Banker and Agent 88

The Valley of Garbyang 89

Chanden Sing and the Daku Rolling up my Bedding 91

Motema, a Shoka Beauty 92

On the Way to the Rambang 93

Shoka Earrings 94

Silver Earrings of Tibetan Origin with Coral Beads 95

Shoka Woman Weaving 96

Rambang Girls with Ornaments 97

Weeping Women under White Cloth 99

Shoka Funeral Pile 100

Women Dusting and Caressing the Lay Figure 101

Women Dancing Round the Lay Figure 102

Dance in Front of Deceased Man's House 103

The Goat with Soul of Deceased being Fed 104

Goat with Soul and Clothes of Deceased 105

Sending the Goat away from the Village 106

Martial Dance round Lay Figure 107

Tearing out the Heart of the Goat 108

Yak driven over Precipice 109

Kachi and his Relations 111

The Patan Summoning my Coolies from the Roof of his House 112

The Chongur Bridge Previous to being Destroyed 114

A Perilous Passage 117

The Photograph that Caused the Child's Death 121

Plan of Kuti Castle 123

The Kuti Castle 125

Mansing the Leper showing his Hands 126

The Jolinkan or Lebung Pass 128

Camping in Snow 133

The Snow-Line at 16,000 Feet 135

The Mangshan Glacier 139

The Spectre and Circular Rainbow 145

"I Roused the Rongba" 146

Ascending the Lumpiya Pass 149

The Lumpiya Glacier and Pass 151

Spied 155

My Men Salaaming Kelas at Lama Chokden 159

The Arrival of Reinforcements 169

The Barca Tarjum and his Officers 171

"At Night I led my men up the mountain in a fierce snowstorm" 183

Buried in Snow 189

Sheep Carrying Load 193

Dacoits with a Booty of Sheep 195

Behind our Bulwarks 199

Our First View of Rakastal 212

Rakastal and Mansarowar Lakes 214

A Dacoit 219

The Bandits laid down their Arms 221

Pack-saddles for Yaks 223

White Woollen Coat and Sashes 226

Woollen Socks 226

Man's Boot, Made at Sigatz; Snow Boot 227

Woman's Boot; Boot Made in Lhassa 227

Hat, as Worn by Officials 228

A Black Yak 232

A Tibetan Fortune Teller 234

My Two Yaks 237

Silver Lhassa Coins 239

Copper Coins; Earring Worn by Men 240

Silver Charm 240

Gold and Malachite Brooch 240

Mansarowar Pottery 241

Entrance to the Tucker Temple 246

Tucker Village and Gomba 251

Stone with Inscription 254

Prayer-wheels--Ancient and Modern.

Showing Rolls of Prayers to Go Inside 255

Stone with Inscription 256

Branch with Thorns to Prevent Return of Evil Spirits 260

The Tokchim Tarjum 264

A Medicine-man 267

The Panku Gomba 269

Sling 272

A Natural Castle 273

Woman carrying Child in Basket 274

Tibetan Young Man 277

Swords 278

Saddle 279

Camp with Gigantic Inscription 281

Yak with Cases of Scientific Instruments 284

With only Two Men I proceeded towards Lhassa 285

A Kala 288

Torrential Rain 291

Head of Brigand 292

Brigands with Sheep 293

Saddle Bags 294

Phantom-like Visitors 296

The Gunkyo Lake 299

"I am only a Messenger" 300

Flying Prayers on the Maium Pass 303

Matchlocks 304

Source of the Brahmaputra 307

Tibetan Dog 310

Small Mani Wall 311

An Effect of Mirage 314

Black Tent 317

A Dongbo, or Tea Churn 318

The Interior of a Tent 319

Tsamgo 320

Small Tsamba Bag, carried on the Person by Tibetans 320

Tibetan Hair-brushes and Flint-and-steel Pouch 322

Tibetan Women and Children 323

The Tchukti 324

A Lady from Lhassa 325

Money Bags 326

Woman whose Face is Smeared with Black Ointment 328

Tibetan Woman 329

The Lady in Question 330

Tibetan Children 331

A Young Lama 334

A Red Lama 335

Cup made of a Human Skull 336

Chokden, or Tomb of a Saint 336

A Mani Wall on the Road to Lhassa 339

"And I give you this to make you go back" 340

Kiang 343

Our Yaks Sinking in Mud 344

Carpenter and Saddle-maker 347

Old Woman 348

Contrivance for Carrying Loads 349

Rescuing a Yak 350

Drinking out of a Bucket 353

Shrine inside Tent 354

Mud Guard-house 356

Tibetan Bellows 357

A Distaff 358

Purchasing Ponies 359

I was a Prisoner 360

Rope Riding-whip 361

Earring worn by High Officials 362

Dragged into the Settlement 363

A Spear 364

Tibetans overhauling our Baggage 365

The Pombo's Tent 368

Chanden Sing being Lashed 371

The Pombo 372

A Soldier 374

Soldier with Pigtail wound round his Head 375

An Officer 376

Purse; Flint and Steel; Snuff-box 377

Flint-and-steel Pouch 378

Leather Horse-whip 379

Charm-box 380

Pukus, or Wooden Cups 383

Soldier laying before me the Programme of Tortures 387

Handcuffs 388

Padlock and Key 389

"Sir, sir, I am dying" 391

Spiked Saddle 392

Nerba Firing at Me 394

The Ride on a Spiked Saddle 395

Coat I Wore at the Time of My Capture, Showing Effect of Spikes 396

A Display of Various Instruments of Torture 398

Lama Musicians 399

The Hot Iron Torture 399

The Taram 400

A Bannerman 403

The Executioner Brought the Sword Down to My Neck 404

Thus Elapsed Twenty-four terrible Hours 409

Belt, with Bullet and Powder Pouches, Dagger, Needle-case,

and Flint and Steel 414

Martini-Henry Exploded 415

The Pombo's Contortions 419

The Finale of the Dance 420

Chanden Sing tied to a Post 425

A White Yak 426

Map Drawn with Blood during Captivity 427

One of Our Guard 430

Soldier Suffocating Goat 432

Strolling Musicians 433

Old Beggar 434

A Tibetan Shepherd 436

Interior of a Serai 437

Tea Churn (open) 438

A Bearer of Bad News 439

A Shoka Tibetan Half-caste 440

Sheep Loads for Borax and Grain 441

A Jumli Shed 442

We Attacked our Guard with Stones 443

Lapsang and the Jong Pen's Private Secretary 444

Jumli Trader and His Wife in Tibet 446

Cliff Habitations 447

Chokdens near Taklakot 448

Taklakot Fort 449

Pundit Gobaria 450

Dr. Wilson 451

Karak Sing Pal, the Political Peshkar 452

Mansing Showing Cuts under his Feet 453

A Glance at the Forbidden Land from the Lippu Pass 454

The Author, February and October 455

Chanden Sing's Legs, Showing Marks of Lashes and Wounds Healed 456

Mr. J. Larkin 457

Chanden Sing and Mansing enjoying their first Meal according

to the Rules of their Castes 458

A Tibetan Temporary Shed 459

A Shaky Passage on the Nerpani Road 460

View of Askote, Showing Rajiwar's Palace 461

Snapshot of Shoka Villagers being Routed 461

Dr. Wilson, Myself, Mr. Larkin, the Political Peshkar,

and Jagat Sing ready to ascend the Lippu Pass 462

Tinker in Nepal 463

On the Lippu Pass 464

Mr. Larkin's Party and Mine Halting near the Lippu Pass 465

Mr. Larkin looking out for the Jong Pen from the Lippu Pass 466

Bathing at 16,300 Feet 467

Dharchula. Deserted Habitations of Shokas 467

"I told you," exclaimed the old savage, "that whoever visits

the home of the Raots will have misfortune" 468

A Picturesque Bit of Almora 469

Raots Listening to the Account of My Misfortunes 470

Map of South-Western Tibet, showing Author's Route and Return, Journey 470

CHAPTER I

FROM LONDON TO NAINI TAL

[Illustration: A CHINESE PASSPORT]

ON leaving London, I intended to proceed _viâ_ Germany to Russia,

traverse Russian Turkestan, Bokhara and Chinese Turkestan, and from there

enter Tibet. The Russian Government had readily granted me a special

permission to take free of duty through their territory my firearms,

ammunition, provisions, photographic cameras, surveying and other

scientific instruments, and moreover informed me, through H.E. Sir

Nicholas O'Conor, then our Ambassador in St. Petersburg, that I should be

privileged to travel on the military railway through Turkestan, as far as

the terminus at Samarakand. I feel under a great obligation to the

Russian Embassy in London for the extreme courtesy shown me, and I desire

to acknowledge this at the outset, especially because that route might

very likely have saved me much of the suffering and disappointment I was

subjected to through going by way of India.

I was provided with introductions and credentials from the Marquis of

Salisbury, the British Museum of Natural History, etc., I was carrying

scientific instruments for the Royal Geographical Society, and I had a

British and two Chinese passports.

Having forwarded all my explosives by an ammunition vessel to Russia (the

German railways absolutely refusing to carry cartridges), I heard to my

dismay, only a few days previous to leaving London, that the steamer had

stranded just before reaching her port of destination, and that grave

doubts were entertained as to the possibility of saving even a portion of

her cargo. This was at the time of the outbreak of the Turco-Greek War,

and the Russians were reported to be mobilising their troops along the

Afghan frontier. I did not wish to delay my journey, and although my

preparations were complete for going through Russia, I nevertheless

decided to abandon that plan and go to India, with a view to penetrating

over the Himahlya into Tibet. I sailed for India on March 19, on the P.

and O. ss. _Peninsular_, and reached Bombay three weeks later.

It was my first visit to India, and my first impression was certainly not

a good one. The heat was intense, and signs of the plague were

discernible everywhere. The streets were deserted and the hotels bad and

dirty for want of servants, who had abandoned the town in fear of the

scourge.

Accompanied by a Parsee friend, I went to several of the districts of

Bombay chiefly affected by the disease, but I noticed, wherever I went,

little else than a strong odour of disinfectants. It is true there were

few houses in those parts which had not ten, twenty, and even more

circular red marks, denoting as many deaths, and on one door, which I

photographed, I counted no less than forty-nine circles. But I was unable

to gauge personally with any sort of accuracy the nature or extent of the

disease, beyond seeing in the hospitals a few violent cases of bubonic

attacks.

On the day following my arrival in Bombay, I proceeded by rail to

Bareilly, which was reached in three days, and from there one more night

brought me to Kathgodam, the terminus of the railway line. Travelling

partly by Tonga (a two-wheeled vehicle drawn by two horses) and partly on

horseback, I found myself at last at Naini Tal, a hill station in the

lower Himahlyas and the summer seat of the Government of the North-West

Provinces and Oudh, from whence I wrote to the Lieutenant-Governor,

informing him of my intention to proceed to Tibet. I also called on the

Deputy-Commissioner and made him fully acquainted with my plans. Neither

one nor the other of these gentlemen raised the slightest objection to my

intended journey into the sacred Land of the Lamas.