We cruised around the coast of Africa for whales, but finding none,
put into the port of Johanna, where we again met the ship Sally Ann,
captain Burton, who had the reputation of being a very cruel man.
While lying in port, six or seven of his men, taking with them
provisions, a compass, quadrant, chart, nautical almanac, spy glass,
and other useful implements of navigation, one morning before
daylight, took a boat and made off, intending to go to Mohilla, one
of the Comoro Islands, about ten miles from Johanna. But before they
were out of sight, they were discovered from the ship.
Now, there is a reef of rocks running about one and a half miles
out to sea, from the port of Johanna, which are, at all times, very
dangerous, in consequence of the heavy seas which are constantly
breaking over them. When captain Burton discovered and gave chase to
his deserting crew, they ran at once among these reefs, and thus
escaped, he not daring to follow them, but returning to his ship much
fatigued and exasperated.
It seemed that the Johannicans and Mohillans had been at war with
each other, and consequently no intercourse was permitted between
the islands. Captain Burton offered the Johanna king a large reward,
if he would catch his runaways, and deliver them up to him when he
returned from a short cruise, which he was now obliged to make, and
from which he should return in about three weeks. But the king,
fearing to approach the shores of his enemy’s island, only cruised
about his own, and of course with no success; so he finally gave up
the search, and the ship was obliged to put out to sea without them,
though the captain swore he would have them, if they went to hell!
Five days afterwards they discovered a sperm whale, after which they
immediately gave chase. He went down and finally came up very near
the captain’s boat, when he gave orders to harpoon him, which the
boatsteerer immediately did, and fastened him. The captain then went
forward to lance him, when the whale struck him so violent a blow
with his tail, as to break both his legs, without injuring another
person. He was taken directly to Johanna, but there being no surgeon
there, he was obliged to remain in this painful situation, until an
English vessel, having one on board, came into port. But by this
time his limbs were so badly swollen, that one of them could not be
properly set, so he was taken to Cape Town, from whence he was sent
to America. Three of his runaway crew were taken on board a French
vessel, nearly in a state of starvation, while the rest actually
perished.
We lay in this port about a week. It is a very ancient town, the
houses of one story, mostly built of stone, and seldom having any
windows. The inhabitants are Arabs, Malays and Africans. They are of
a light brown complexion, and have regular features. Their religion
is Mahomedan, the rites of which they scrupulously observe. They are
exceedingly jealous of their females, insomuch that they will not
permit them to speak to any man, out of their own family circle. They
wear sad countenances, but are very hospitable. They have large and
splendidly decorated temples, the floors of which are covered with
striped matting, of their own manufacture.
One of the natives, who seemed a man of some influence and high
moral standing, one day invited me to visit, with him, one of these
temples; which invitation I gladly accepted. When we reached the
door, my conductor stopped to speak to a person who I supposed was
a priest, as he sat by a table on which lay a book and many papers,
from which he was reading in a tuneful voice. A stone trough was
standing beside the church.
I bolted at once into the temple, without hesitation, but was as
soon brought back and told that I had defiled it, in consequence
of not purifying myself before entering. The priest seemed very
much offended, but led me to the trough, in which was a constantly
changing supply of clean, fresh water, and bade me wash my hands and
feet before entering.
I was told that my sacrilegious entrance, unpurified, would oblige
them to perform an extra sacrifice, by way of atonement. I regretted
much that I had unwittingly been the cause of so much trouble, and
thought an acknowledgment a sufficient sacrifice, but I was mistaken.
After being properly prepared, I was allowed to enter and remain
during their service. I was astonished at the reverence and humility
with which they approached the throne of grace, for they fell flat
upon their faces.
Many things might be said concerning the manners and customs
prevalent on this Island, as also concerning its towns; but my
business is to describe my voyage to the Indian Ocean, to which I
will now return.
We left this Island, and sailed in the direction of New Zealand, near
which we cruised five weeks, taking several whales in the time. Four
other vessels were in company with us here, each of which went in for
himself, taking whales.
During one of our whaling adventures, I unwillingly consented
to accompany the mate, at his request. I attributed most of the
accidents to his carelessness; notwithstanding, he was called a
skillful whaleman, therefore I did not like to go with him. He would
rush to attack a whale, like a restless horse to battle, harpooning
him without any regard to order or formality, lest some other boat
should secure him first. We here took three whales in one week.
We one day fell in with a ship from Sag Harbor, having on board
the dead bodies of two men, the captain of which came on board the
Milwood, one beautiful Sabbath morning, when the sea was as smooth as
glass, to ask our captain and such of the crew as chose to accompany
him, to go on board his ship and attend their funeral.
I went and witnessed what is, probably, one of the most solemn and
affecting of scenes,—a burial at sea. All who witnessed it were
affected with sadness. When all was ready for the final ceremony,
the bodies were taken to the waist gangway, where they were lashed
upon boards, lying upon their backs, with heavy bags of sand attached
to their feet, after which they were committed to the waves, and
instantly sank into the vast deep. Captain Luce performed the
religious services with great solemnity.
After cruising in these seas about two months, we put into a harbor
on New Zealand, where we stayed one week, and then went to New
Holland for the cure of the scurvy, with which the sailors were
badly afflicted, in consequence of having been so long exposed to an
atmosphere loaded with saline vapors, and of being so long fed upon
salted food. Eating raw potatoes is considered by some an excellent
remedy for this disease, which commences with an irruption of the
skin, and ends in putrefaction, if not arrested in season to prevent.
Another remedy, and one to which our sailors were subjected, is
reckoned very good, namely: to bury the patient in the ground, all
but his head, for a while. After the diseased ones had thus been
cured, we cruised for a long time with no success, and finally
returned to the Crowsett Islands; but even here were unsuccessful.
We had now been at sea over two years, and had completed our cargo,
all save 50 bbls., when our captain decided to cruise towards home,
keeping up a sharp lookout, until we were beyond the whaling ground.
This decision filled me with joy, for I yearned to see my long unseen
family.
The captain said to me one day, when we had been sometime homeward
bound, “Steward, I thought you promised us a full cargo to return
with, which you see we have not got; so I must think you a
hypocrite!” I told him I still believed my prayers would be answered,
and that we should yet have a full cargo.
About two weeks after this, while the ship, with all her canvas
spread, and with a fair wind, was running after the rate of nine
knots an hour, the man aloft saw two whales in the distance. The
captain had offered ten dollars for a whale that would furnish
50 bbls. of oil, and each man was desirous of winning the prize.
Preparations were soon made to give chase to the whales, who were
still at a considerable distance from the ship.
The mate’s boat soon fastened one whale, but while the captain was
striving to fasten the other, he stove the boat and tumbled the crew
into the water. The mate’s crew, however, after killing their whale,
took after this, and finally secured him, while the second mate’s
boat picked up the almost despairing crew. The two whales filled 150
bbls. with oil, so that there was not place in the ship to stow it,
without throwing over some of the provisions to make room. We then
went into Soldonna for refreshment, and while there lost four of our
crew by desertion.
We next stopped at St. Helena, which renowned place I was very
glad to see, and took occasion to visit the residence and tomb of
the Emperor Napoleon. But I discovered nothing very remarkable at
either place, therefore will not weary my readers with unimportant
description. After one week’s stay we left St. Helena for the
American coast.
About three days out from this island, we spoke a ship, recently from
home, by which the captain learned that since he left home his wife
had given birth to a son. This filled him with joy, and made him so
anxious to reach home, that he ordered the mate to put the ship under
all the sail which she would bear.
The wind blew so furiously that it sometimes seemed as if the sails
must all be carried away; but like a gallant bark, the ship safely
outrode the whole, and arrived at New Bedford. No pilot being in
sight, we had to fire twenty rounds from the cannon as a signal,
before we could raise one. At last, however, to our great joy, a
pilot boat hove in sight, dancing over the waves, when shouts were
heard, “O, sir, we shall soon get into harbor!” Then the joyful hymn
was sung:—
“By faith I see the land,
The port of endless rest;
My soul, each sail expand,
And fly to Jesus’ breast.
Oh! may I gain that heavenly shore,
Where winds and waves disturb no more.”
But our singing was soon turned into sighing, our joy into sadness,
for our pilot, being unacquainted with the New Bedford channel, could
only take us in sight of the city, where we were left nearly two days
to brood over our bitter disappointment.
How often do professed ministers of the Christian Church pretend to
lead the anxious soul to the haven of eternal rest, when they are
themselves ignorant of the way, and of course leave him in the gulf
of despair to mourn his sad disappointment. But the right pilot came
at last and took us into New Bedford, and Oh, what joy filled my
soul, when I was once more permitted to enter the congregation of the
righteous, and to hear the sound of the Gospel Trumpet.
But my bliss was not complete, for I had a family in Philadelphia,
whom I must hasten to see, that they might participate in my joy,
and unite with me in praises to God for my safe preservation through
so long a voyage; so, as soon as I received my wages, I left New
Bedford. Before I left, the captain and mate both called to see me,
the former giving me ten, and the latter five dollars, telling me to
live faithful until death, and asking me to pray for them, which I
promised to do, then bade them farewell, and left for Philadelphia.