CHAPTER XI

PLANNING A MENU

Food value and contrast--the avoidance of duplicating flavors--are main

points in menu planning. An elaborate menu must alternate its light and

heavy courses.

SOUP

Thin soups for formal dinners, cream or thick soups for informal ones

is the rule. With Consomme, Bread or Cheese Sticks; with thick soups

Crackers or Croutons; with Oyster Stew, Oyster Crackers are the proper

thing. Soup garnishings (clear soup) include: Shredded Sprouts, Boiled

Macaroni cut in rings, Noodles, Lemon Slices, Italian Pastes and Grated

Parmesan Cheese, and Sliced Cooked Chestnuts and Royal Custard.

Radishes, Celery and Olives are served _after_ the soup.

HORS D'OEVRES

Cocktails or Canapes beginning a dinner call for plain sandwiches or

wafers. When Oysters or Clams (or any seafood cocktails) are served,

Graham or Brown Bread Sandwiches are grateful. With oysters served raw

on shell, a Horseradish Sandwich is proper. Tabasco, Grated

Horseradish, Catsup, Cayenne, or Cocktail Sauce are in order for

oysters or clams, and a half lemon should _always_ be laid on the

oyster plate.

FISH

Fish flavoring's include Lemon Juice (lemon sliced with or without the

rind, or served in quarters or halves) or Tarragon Vinegar. Sauce

Tartare is always appropriate for fried fish. Broiled Halibut or

Pompano gain by a Sauce Hollandaise. With Baked or Broiled Shad

Cucumber Cream Sauce is in order. Broiled fish in general should be

mated with rich, heavy sauces, and may be accompanied by Boiled Potato

Balls, and Maitre d'Hotel butter. When Halibut or Flounder are steamed

or baked in fillets, they call for a piquantly flavored sauce: Caper,

Brown Tomato, Shrimp or Lobster. Drawn Butter Sauce, Caper or

Hollandaise Sauce, are best with Boiled Hot Salmon; Green Mayonnaise,

Vinaigrette or Sauce Tartare with Cold Boiled Salmon. Vegetables do not

properly accompany fish in a dinner of many courses. Yet broiled fish

may be served with Corn and Shell Beans; white fish of various sorts

with Tomatoes, stuffed or fried; and Salmon with Peas.

ENTREES

Every entree should have the sauce which properly befits it. Patties,

however, are not served with the rolls which accompany other entrees,

their pastry taking its place. A Puree of Peas may be offered with meat

croquettes.

SALADS

For simply dressed salads Cheese Balls or croquettes are appropriate.

Fruit salads require thin, unsugared crackers--they may be served hot,

sprinkled with mild paprika over butter. Anything of the sort served

with a salad is merely served to _bring out_ its flavor, not to

destroy it!

DESSERTS

When the dinner is a heavy or elaborate one the heavy pudding with a

rich sauce is distinctly out of keeping. Frappeed or cold desserts are

the proper thing, served together with small wafers or cakes. At less

formal dinners the sweet dessert may be omitted, and cheese and hard

crackers, a fruit salad, or toasted wafers and coffee may be

substituted.

THE ROASTS

Under this head we will list for the reader's convenience a grouping of

roasts, together with the sauces and vegetables with which they may be

combined for menu purposes in a natural and satisfactory manner.

_Beefsteak and Roast Beef:_ As sauces, Mushroom Sauce is

appropriate for both; then for Beefsteak we have Sauce Bearnaise, and

Maitre d'Hotel Butter; for the Roast Beef, Horseradish Sauce, Banana

Sauce and as an accompanying dish, Yorkshire Pudding. Accompanying

vegetables for both include: Potatoes, white and sweet, Lima and String

Beans, Macaroni, Corn, Peas, Spinach and Onions, Eggplant and Squash,

Brussels Sprouts, Cauliflower and Tomatoes.

_Boiled Beef_: Horseradish Sauce is the preferred one, and

Dumplings may accompany it. Potatoes (white), Parsnips, Turnips,

Carrots are the first concomitants.

_Corned Beef_: Plain Boiled Potatoes and Cabbage are the first

concomitants. Spinach or Dandelion Greens, Parsnips, Beets, Turnips and

Carrots are also indicated.

_Roast Lamb_: May be accompanied by Banana Croquettes or Bananas

baked, by Currant Jelly, Mint Sauce, Mint Jelly or Mint Sherbet. In

addition to most of the vegetables already listed, Asparagus, and

Jerusalem Artichokes are in order, and Cauliflower may be served with

Cream Sauce or _au gratin_.

_Lamb Chops Broiled_: Potatoes in any form desired, Cauliflower or

Brussels Sprouts, and practically any green vegetables, _but

piquantly served_, are in order.

_Boiled Lamb and Mutton_: Caper Sauce and accompanying Dumplings

are in order for both. Potatoes (white) Carrots, Turnips and Parsnips

are the vegetables.

_Saddle of Mutton_: Takes all vegetables served with Lamb. It

should be served with Currant Jelly or Mint Sauce and, aside from

Asparagus, Spinach, French Peas and String Beans, may be accompanied by

Fried Rice Balls or Rice Croquettes.

_Fowl in General and Chicken_: These take Cranberry Jelly and

Sauce, also Chestnut, Mushroom, Oysters, Celery and Curry Sauce, and

fresh Celery. Glazed Sweet Potatoes, Corn Fritters, Croquettes (Rice,

Chestnut, Hominy), all fresh summer vegetables, including String and

Lima Beans, Mushrooms, Onions and Squash are in order with fowl.

_Roast Turkey_: Here, while we may have Cranberry Sauce or Jelly,

we _must_ have crisp, fresh Celery. There is a choice of

stuffings--Sausage, Chestnut, Oyster, Sage and Nut. Potatoes (white

and sweet), Brussels Sprouts and Cauliflower, Squash, Turnips and

Onions are the vegetables.

_Roast Goose_: The vegetables are the same as for Roast Turkey,

and Brown Giblet Gravy, Apple Sauce and Celery are accompaniments. The

stuffings mentioned for Turkey are also in order here.

_Duck (Domestic)_: The vegetables served for all fowl, plus Fried

Hominy if desired, are indicated. Either Boiled or Souffled Onions are

a tradition with duck.

_Duck (Game)_: Salads are preferred to vegetables as an

accompaniment for Wild Duck. The Salad Greens--any salad green may be

used--should be dressed in a simple manner. If preferred, Olive and

Orange Jellies and Sauces, and Currant and Plum Jellies, Orange and

Cress or Orange and Walnut on Lettuce may be served.

_Roast Grouse or Guinea Hen_: With Bread Sauce may be served

Potatoes (as croquettes or French fried), Celery Croquettes, String

Beans, Asparagus, and French Peas, also Currant Jelly and Currant Jelly

Sauce.

_Quail, Roasted or Broiled_: Green salads in which Orange

dominates should accompany this game bird. Ideal ways of serving are:

1. In a nest of Chestnut Puree. 2. On Buttered Toast. 3. On toast

spread with Puree of Cooked Calf's Liver moistened with Sherry.

_Squab, Roasted or Broiled_: Serve with Currant Jelly and--if

offered as a main course at a luncheon--with light vegetables,

Mushrooms, Peas, Beans, Asparagus on Toast, Spinach in Puff Paste or

Fried Potato Balls.

_Boiled Ham_: For Boiled Ham Champagne or Cider Sauce is best.

Potatoes in practically any form desired, Creamed, Chantilly,

Escalloped, etc., with Spinach, Beet Greens, Cauliflower, Brussels

Sprouts are vegetable choices.

_Pork_: Implies the presence of the apple, as Apple Sauce, Cider

Apple Sauce, Fried Apples or Apple Croquettes, though Sauce Soubise or

Sauce Piquant may also be used with it. Potatoes, if desired, and

practically any vegetable are in order.

_Roast Veal_: A Brown Gravy or Sauce Soubise are proper for veal.

Rice, Spaghetti, Macaroni, are accompanying dishes; and practically all

the usual garden vegetables are in order.

_Roast Venison_: A Wild Plum Sauce is especially appropriate, plus

Currant Jelly. Potatoes should be Saratoga or French Fried. French

String Beans and French Peas, Brussels Sprouts (with Chestnuts) and

Mushrooms (in Brown Madeira Sauce) will add to the occasion.

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