17. Santa Fe and the Santa Fe Trail

THERE WAS Independence on the Missouri River, then eight hundred miles

of twisting trail across hills, plains, and mountains, all uninhabited

save by a few wandering Indians and uncountable buffaloes. Then there

was Santa Fe. On west of it lay nearly a thousand miles of wild broken

lands before one came to the village of Los Angeles. But there was

no trail to Los Angeles. At Santa Fe the trail turned south and after

crawling over the Jornada del Muerto--Journey of the Dead Man--threading

the great Pass of the North (El Paso) and crossing a vast desert,

reached Chihuahua City.

Looked at in one way, Santa Fe was a mud village. In another way, it was

the solitary oasis of human picturesqueness in a continent of vacancy.

Like that of Athens, though of an entirely different quality, its fame

was out of all proportion to its size. In a strong chapter, entitled "A

Caravan Enters Santa Fe," R. L. Duffus _(The Santa Fe Trail)_ elaborates

on how for all travelers the town always had "the lure of adventure."

Josiah Gregg doubted whether "the first sight of the walls of Jerusalem

were beheld with much more tumultuous and soul-enrapturing joy" than

Santa Fe was by a caravan topping the last rise and, eight hundred miles

of solitude behind it, looking down on the town's shining walls and

cottonwoods.

No other town of its size in America has been the subject of and focus

for as much good literature as Santa Fe. Pittsburgh and dozens of

other big cities all put together have not inspired one tenth of

the imaginative play that Santa Fe has inspired. Some of the

transcontinental railroads probably carry as much freight in a day as

went over the Santa Fe Trail in all the wagons in all the years they

pulled over the Santa Fe Trail. But the Santa Fe Trail is one of the

three great trails of America that, though plowed under, fenced across,

and cemented over, seem destined for perennial travel--by those happily

able to go without tourist guides. To quote Robert Louis Stevenson, "The

greatest adventures are not those we go to seek." The other two trails

comparable to the Santa Fe are also of the West--the Oregon Trail for

emigrants and the Chisholm Trail for cattle.

For additional literature see "Mountain Men," "Stagecoaches,

Freighting," "Surge of Life in the West."

CATHER, WILLA. _Death Comes for the Archbishop_, Knopf, New York, 1927.

Historical novel.

CONNELLEY, W. E. (editor). _Donithan's Expedition_, 1907. Saga of the

Mexican War. OP.

DAVIS, W. W. H. _El Gringo, or New Mexico and Her People_, 1856;

reprinted by Rydal, Santa Fe, 1938. OP. Excellent on manners and

customs.

DUFFUS, R. L. _The Santa Fe Trail_, New York, 1930. OP. Bibliography.

Best book of this century on the subject.

DUNBAR, SEYMOUR. _History of Travel in America_, 1915; revised edition

issued by Tudor, New York, 1937.

GREGG, JOSIAH. _Commerce of the Prairies_, two vols., 1844. Reprinted,

but all OP. Gregg wrote as a man of experience and not as a professional

writer. He wrote not only the classic of the Santa Fe trade and trail

but one of the classics of bedrock Americana. It is a commentary on

civilization in the Southwest that his work is not kept in print. Harvey

Fergusson, in _Rio Grande_, has written a penetrating criticism of the

man and his subject. In 1941 and 1944 the University of Oklahoma Press,

Norman, issued two volumes of the _Diary and Letters of Josiah Gregg_,

edited by Maurice G. Fulton with Introductions by Paul Horgan. These

volumes, interesting in themselves, are a valuable complement to Gregg's

major work.

INMAN, HENRY. _The Old Santa Fe Trail_, 1897. A mine of lore.

LAUGHLIN, RUTH (formerly Ruth Laughlin Barker). _Caballeros_, New York,

1931; republished by Caxton, Caldwell, Idaho, 1946. Essayical goings

into the life of things. Especially delightful on burros. A book to be

starred. _The Wind Leaves No Shadow_, New York, 1948; Caxton, 1951. A

novel around Dona Tules Barcelo, the powerful, beautiful, and silvered

mistress of Santa Fe's gambling _sala_ in the 1830's and '40's.

MAGOFFIN, SUSAN SHELBY. _Down the Santa Fe Trail_, Yale University

Press, New Haven, 1926. Delectable diary.

PILLSBURY, DOROTHY L. _No High Adobe_, University of New Mexico Press,

Albuquerque, 1950. Sketches, pleasant to read, that make the _gente_

very real.

RUXTON, GEORGE FREDERICK. _Adventures in Mexico and the Rocky

Mountains_, London, 1847. In 1924 the second half of this book was

reprinted under title of _Wild Life in the Rocky Mountains_. In 1950,

with additional Ruxton writings discovered by Clyde and Mae Reed Porter,

the book, edited by LeRoy R. Hafen, was reissued under title of _Ruxton

of the Rockies_, University of Oklahoma Press, Norman. Santa Fe is only

one incident in it. Ruxton illuminates whatever he touches. He was in

love with the wilderness and had a fire in his belly. Other writers add

details, but Ruxton and Gregg embodied the whole Santa Fe world.

VESTAL, STANLEY. _The Old Santa Fe Trail_, Houghton Mifflin, Boston,

1939.

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