Aylesbury, standing on a hill, in the midst of one of the richest, if not the
richest, tracts of pasture lands in England, is very ancient without being
venerable. The right of returning two members to Parliament is found
periodically profitable to the inhabitants, and these two MP's with a little
lace, constitute its only manufactures. The loss of the coaching trade by
the substitution of the railroad, was a great blow to its local prosperity.
Among other changes, the Aylesbury butchers often go to London to buy meat,
which has passed in the shape of oxen through the town to ride to London.
The Berry field, said to be the best field in England, lies in the Vale of
Aylesbury. The saying of "good land bad farmers," is not belied among the
mass of those who meet in the markets of Aylesbury. With a few exceptions
the farming is as bad as it can be, the farmers miserably poor, and the
labourers ignorant to a degree which is a disgrace to the resident clergy and
gentry. We had some experience of the peasantry during the railway surveys
of 1846, 1847, and found them quite innocent of thinking and reading, with a
timid hatred of their employers, and perfect readiness to do anything not
likely to be found out, for a pot of beer. They get low wages, live low, and
work accordingly. It was round Aylesbury, that for many years, the influence
of the insolvent Duke of Buckingham was paramount.
To city sportsmen, Aylesbury has interest as the centre of Baron Rothschild's
(stag) hunt; to politicians, because of great meetings of the country party
held there.
We must not omit to notice the duck trade carried on by the poorer order of
people round the town. They hatch the ducks under hens generally in their
living rooms, often under their beds, and fatten them up early in spring on
garbage, of which horse flesh not unfrequently forms a large part. The ducks
taste none the worse if for the last fortnight they are permitted to have
plenty of clean water and oats, or barleymeal. Most of the Aylesbury ducks
never see water except in a drinking pan. The cheap rate at which the
inferior grain can be bought has been a great advantage to these duck
feeders.
The many means now open of reaching the best markets of the country will
probably change the style and make the fortunes of a new race of Bucks
farmers. Those of the present generation who have neither capital nor
education can only be made useful by transplantation.
Returning from Aylesbury, and gliding out of the deep cuttings over a fine
open country, we approach the Leighton Buzzard station, and see in the
distance the lofty octagonal spire of the Leighton Buzzard church.
The town is half a mile from the station, and commands the attention of the
church antiquary from its fine church and cross.
The church, says a very competent authority on such matters, "is one of the
most spacious, lightsome, and well-proportioned perpendicular churches,
cruciform, with a handsome stone spire. The roof, stalls, and other wood-
work very perfect. The windows, some ironwork, and other details, full of
interest."
The cross stands in an open area in the centre of the market place, and is
twenty-seven feet high above the basement, which is raised by rows of steps
about five feet.
At Leighton Buzzard a branch line of seven miles communicates with DUNSTABLE.
[LEIGHTON BUZZARD: ill6.jpg]
Dunstable is situated in the centre of the Dunstable Chalk Downs, where the
celebrated Dunstable larks are caught which are made mention of in one of
Miss Edgeworth's pretty stories. The manufactures are whiting and straw
hats. Of an ancient priory, founded in 1131, by Henry I., and endowed with
the town, and the privileges of jurisdiction extending to life and death,
nothing remains but the parish church, of which the interior is richly
ornamented. Over the altar-piece is a large painting representing the Lord's
Supper, by Sir James Thornhill, the father-in-law of Hogarth. In a charity
school founded in 1727, forty boys are clothed, educated, and apprenticed. In
twelve almshouses twelve poor widows are lodged, and in six houses near the
church, called the Maidens' Lodge, six unmarried gentlewomen live and enjoy
an income of 120 pounds per ann. With this brief notice we may retrace our
steps.
On leaving Leighton, within half a mile we enter a covered tunnel, and we
strongly recommend some artist fond of "strong effects" in landscape to
obtain a seat in a coupe forming the last carriage in an express train, if
such are ever put on now, sitting with your back to the engine, with windows
before and on each side, you are whirled out of sight into twilight and
darkness, and again into twilight and light, in a manner most impressive, yet
which cannot be described. Perhaps the effect is even greater in a slow than
in an express train. But as this tunnel is curved the transition would be
more complete.
At Bletchley the church (embowered in a grove of yews, planted perhaps when
Henry VIII. issued his decrees for planting the archer's tree) contains an
altar tomb of Lord Grey of Wilton, A.D. 1412. The station has now become
important as from it diverge the Bedford line to the east, and the lines to
Banbury and Oxford to the west.
A branch connects Bletchley with Bedford 16.25 miles in length, with the
following stations:-
FENNY STRATFORD. LIDLINGTON.
WOBURN SANDS. AMPTHILL.
RIDGMOUNT. BEDFORD.