RED AND GREY.
I will give a method for trapping the grey fox, and have to say trap
him the same as the red fox, as any method that will take one will do
for the other, says L. M. Pickens, of Tennessee. The trapper can
easily tell which of these species he is setting for, as the grey fox
has more of a round track, while his red brother leaves a much larger
and longer imprint.
Each of these animals are great rovers, starting on a forage by
sunset, traveling many miles in a night; never holing up for the
bitterest freeze that comes.
Look for fox tracks in stock paths, old roads not much used, places
under fences, washouts, and in large gullies, as such places are
their travels, yet many other unnamed places suited risks for your
traps may be found if one is closely looking around.
Carry with you a hardwood stick, ready sharpened, with which to dig
the pit for your traps, and dig this lengthwise with the path, (not
across it), and deep enough so the trap will be just a little below
level of surface; now place the trap in, cover over springs and
around outside of jaws with dirt, and lay a piece of paper, flat
leaves or a piece of cloth over jaws and pan, then pulverize some of
the dirt you dug up, sprinkle over the trap 'till all is covered over
good, then lay a dead weed or stick on each side of trap two or three
inches away, which completes the set.
[Illustration: GREY FOX.]
When you fasten the trap, do not staple it, but wire the ring or end
of chain to a bush you cut, one that the fox can drag a distance,
which always leaves the same trap pit or hole in readiness for your
trap, which should immediately be smoked, set right back for another
fox which is sure to come along, and if you are careful he will he
yours, as it all depends upon skillful setting and covering the trap
chain.
Have everything look as natural when you make the set as before, and
I will guarantee the catch of every fox that comes along.
Use none but the best trap, and a Newhouse No. 2 is recommended,
handle it and everything about the set with gloves, learn to respect
the cunning of a fox by cultivating a habit of standing in one place,
always be careful not to spit, whittle or leave any paper about a
trap.
Don't use rusty traps, scour off the rust, and boil for thirty
minutes in any green bark that will coat them; willow, walnut, or
chestnut are good.
Don't lay your traps around on the ground at your sets; better carry
them in a satchel, sack or something strapped around your shoulders.
Don't whittle or spit where you are making a set.
Don't staple your traps, but cut and wire the chains to a green limb,
one that the fox can drag a distance, and visit your traps regularly,
avoiding any unnecessary company.
The method recommended is only the "path method," and to be used
altogether without any bait or scents; as I believe the best results
are obtained by just taking a fox unawares, and the whole secret is
in choosing the place, then knowing just how to conceal the trap, and
have everything as natural as possible when the set is made.
Look for fox tracks in stock paths, in pastures, fields, and woods,
in large gullies, washouts and places under fences, old roads not
much used, sand bars along streams, and other places; always
selecting a narrow place for your set; approaching such places with
trap ready set and wired to the brush, then with ready sharpened hard
wood stick, stop and stand in one place until trap is properly set,
when you can just walk right on to the next place.
Always dig the pit just the size of trap to be used, having the
springs lengthwise in the path or trail--not across it--and just deep
enough so the trap will be a little below the surface level when put
in the pit. Cover over springs and around the outside of the jaws
with dirt, lay a piece of paper over pan and jaws, or put fine moss,
cotton, wool or dead grass inside of jaws and under pan; then haul on
the fine dirt, just enough of it to thinly cover all, brush with a
twig to level and complete the set by laying a couple of dead weeds,
or small sticks, just haphazard like some two or three inches on each
side of the trap.
As soon as you kill your fox, reset the trap in the same pit, but if
your brush drag is chewed up, replace it with a new one. In addition,
if it is a female fox that is caught, kill it near a path or any good
place where a set can be made and where you have lately noticed a
fox's track; then conceal and secure your trap as before, and the
chances are as good for you to catch one or more fox at this set.
[Illustration: SACKING FOXES.]
Now try this method all the way through and you will soon see that I
am right. My brother set his first fox trap Dec. 9th and on the
morning of the 10th had a large female red fox and killed it in a
pasture near a path, and that night caught the largest dog fox I ever
saw or heard of.
He got both these foxes just exactly as the above method indicates.
The dog fox weighed 19 pounds and its hide measured 5 ft. 5 inches on
the board. The old fox had lots of gray hairs on his head, evidently
an old timer.