CHAPTER XIII

HABITS AND CUSTOMS OF THE KORAKS

The hour-glass houses--Their curious construction--The

natives prove to be both hospitable and filthy--Dialects of

Dog Koraks and Deer Koraks--Some unpleasant habits--How they

reckon time--Making liquor out of mushrooms--Curious

marriage customs--Clothes of the natives--Queer notions of a

deity--Jealousy of the wandering Koraks--Thieving a virtue

and childbirth a social function.

When the storm was over, we harnessed the dogs and continued our

journey. Seven days of ideal sledging brought us to Kaminaw, a Korak

village at the extreme northern point of the northeastern arm of the

Okhotsk Sea, where I was to discharge my Russian dog-teams, and secure

others from the natives. My first view of the village was from the

summit of a hill half a mile away. I saw what resembled fifty huge

hour-glasses set on the plain, which, on a nearer approach, turned out

to be ten or twelve feet high. As we drew near, the village came

swarming out with a pack of mongrel curs at their heels; and over the

edge of each hour-glass house appeared the heads of the women and

children, all eager to get a glimpse of such a novel sight as a

foreign face. Over each house was suspended a frozen dog. These were

impaled under the chin on the sharp end of a pole, and lifted high in

the air. I learned later that this was a form of sacrifice to the Fish

God, and was intended to insure a good run of fish the next season.

As I tumbled out of my sledge, I was surrounded by the filthiest lot

of natives I had yet seen. Their furs were old and mangy, and the hair

was worn off in spots. The people were kind and pleasant, and seemed

bent on shaking hands with me. I was pressed on all sides with

invitations to enter one and another of the curious houses. As I stood

there, debating what I should do, the chief of the village elbowed his

way through the crowd, took me by the hand, and led me to the largest

of the huts. In order to enter we had to go up a ladder to the height

of ten feet or more. This ladder was a log of driftwood, split down

the center, and provided with little holes in which to put the toes in

ascending. These natives have very small feet, and I found the holes

in the ladder too small to insert my toes, but I managed to scramble

to the top. I was now standing on the edge of an inverted octagonal

cone, made of logs lashed together, the inside or crater of the

affair, which was eighteen feet across, sloping down at an angle of

about fifteen degrees to the center. At that point there was a hole

leading down to the interior of the house. The hole also sufficed for

a chimney, and to enter the house one had to go down a ladder through

the smoke. Santa Claus is said to come from the north, and it is

evidently among this people that he originated, for here everybody

enters his house by way of the chimney.

[Illustration: Upper View of Underground Hut--Home of the Dog Korak.]

This flaring line of logs protects the opening of the house from being

covered up with drifting snow. This is the main reason for building in

this fashion. Moreover, the high scaffolding thus provided is an

excellent storehouse, upon which all sorts of things can be placed

without fear of molestation from wild animals. I saw here a

miscellaneous collection of implements, dog-harness, oars,

fishing-tackle, and firewood. I followed the chief down the ladder

through the smoke. The hole was two feet wide and three feet long. I

found myself in a semi-subterranean apartment, thirty feet in diameter

and fifteen feet high. As we stood on the floor, our heads were about

level with the general surface of the ground. The frame was strongly

built of timbers, evidently driftwood; but everything was black with

age and smoke. I found it so warm that I had to remove my furs. The

room was very dimly illuminated with what little light filtered

through the hole in the roof; and even this was partially obscured by

the smoke that was always passing up and out.

As soon as my eyes became accustomed to the perpetual twilight of the

place, I perceived that around the apartment ran a raised wooden

platform, one foot high and six broad, on which lay piles of

deerskins. The women were busy clearing off a place for me, shaking

out the skins and choosing the best ones for my accommodation. With

native courtesy, which had no stiffness about it, the old gentleman

led me to my place, sat down beside me, and began to talk. I pointed

to my ears to show that I did not understand him.

There seemed to be little difference between the dress of the men and

the women, excepting that the wide "bloomers" of the women were made

of alternate strips of black and white deerskin. Their clothes were

indescribably old and shabby and dirty, and their faces were anything

but clean; but for all that, there were some very comely people among

them. The women wore their hair in two braids, wound about the head,

and fastened at the top in front.

In these rooms one would naturally expect the worst in the matter of

ventilation, and I was surprised to find that it was exceptionally

good. They are enabled to arrange an air-shaft so that it enters the

room, near the floor, on one side. The draft, made by the heat of the

fire rising through the smoke-hole, causes pure air to be drawn

through this ventilating shaft. In fact, there seemed to be no reason

why these dwellings should not be made perfectly comfortable and

sanitary.

The women appeared to be very busy, and even the children were

industriously making thread from the sinews that lie near the backbone

of the deer.

In this house I found an explosive harpoon that the natives had taken

from the body of a whale. It had been fired from the deck of some

whaling-vessel, and had been deeply embedded in the flesh of the

animal. It bore no name.

The Koraks have two dialects, one of which is spoken by the Dog

Koraks, and the other spoken by the Deer Koraks, but the slight

variations are not marked enough to constitute a serious barrier to

communication between them. All these tribes, without doubt, belong to

the great Turanian family, and are allied to the Mongols, Ostiaks,

Samoyeds, and other tribes of northern Asia. The evidence for this is

both physiological and philological.

The writer before quoted says truly of these people that "their manner

of living is slovenly to the last degree; they never wash their hands

or face, nor cut their nails; everything about them smells of fish;

they never comb their heads, but both men and women plait their hair

in two braids; when any hair starts out they sew it in with threads to

make it lie close; and, as a result, they have such a quantity of lice

that they can scrape them off by handfuls." Time seems not to have

weaned them from these disgusting habits.

These people reckon ten months to the year, not by reference to the

changes of the moon, but by the order of special occurrences which

take place each year, with sufficient regularity for the purpose. The

months in their order are: Purifier of Sins, Breaker of Hatchets,

Beginning of Heat, Time of the Long Day, Preparing Month, Red-Fish

Month, White-Fish Month, Kaiko Fish Month, Great White-Fish Month, and

Leaf-Falling Month. Others name them as follows: River-Freezing Month,

Hunting Month, Purifier of Sins, Breaker of Hatchets, Long Day Month,

Sea Beavers' Puppying Month, Sea Calves' Puppying Month, Tame Deer

Foaling Month, Wild Deer Foaling Month, Beginning of Fishing.

A peculiar custom sometimes to be noted among these people is that of

drinking a kind of liquor made from a large species of mushroom. The

effect is, in some respects, similar to that produced by the use of

hashish. At first the imbiber shakes as with the ague; and presently

he begins to rave as if in delirium. Some jump and dance and sing,

while others cry out as if in agony. A small hole looks to them like a

bottomless pit, and a pool of water as broad as the sea. These effects

are produced only when the beverage is used to excess; a small

quantity has much the same effect as a moderate amount of alcoholic

liquor. Curiously enough, after recovering from one of these

debauches, they claim that all the antics performed were by command of

the mushroom. The use of it is not unattended with danger, for unless

a man is well looked after he is likely to destroy himself. The Koraks

sometimes take this drug in order to work themselves up to the point

of murdering an enemy. Three or four of the mushrooms is a moderate

dose, but when one wants to get the full effect one takes ten or

twelve.

[Illustration: Chinese Pump.]

When a native resolves to marry he looks out for a bride, not in his

own village, but in a neighboring one. When he finds a girl who

pleases him, he tells her parents that he is desirous of serving them,

and, during this period of probation, he works most industriously in

order to make a good impression. At last he asks permission to steal

the girl. If his suit is looked upon with disfavor, he is paid for the

service he has rendered and sent away, but if he is acceptable to the

girl and to her parents and relatives, the permission is given. He

then seeks an opportunity of finding the girl alone, which is no easy

matter, for she is supposed to be guarded by the women of the village.

Besides, the girl is covered with two or three coats, and is wrapped

about with fish-nets and straps, so that motion is almost impossible.

If the young man succeeds in finding her alone, or in company with

only one or two women, he seizes her and begins tearing off her

garments, for this constitutes the ceremony of marriage. But this is

not an easy thing to do; for, though the girl herself makes little

resistance, such other women as are about fall upon the would-be groom

without mercy, and beat and scratch him and use every means to prevent

him from accomplishing his purpose. If, however, he is successful in

tearing off her garments, he immediately walks away from her,

whereupon she gently calls him back, and the ceremony is complete. It

seldom happens that the young man succeeds the first time, and

instances are known where a man has tried for several years to secure

his bride, without success.

When successful, the groom carries off his bride to his own village

without any ceremony; but after some time they return to the bride's

home, and a marriage-feast is celebrated, somewhat after the

following manner: the bridal party, including the bridegroom's

friends, approach to within a hundred paces of the village from which

the bride has been taken. They sing and go through certain mystic

rites with a fish's head wrapped in tow and carried by an old woman. A

coat of sheepskin is put on the bride, and several images are hung

about her till she can hardly bear up under the load. A boy of the

village comes out and leads the bride in by the hand. When she comes

to the hut of her parents, a strap is tied around her, and by this she

is let down into the underground house. The fish-head is laid on the

floor at the foot of the ladder, and the bride and all who follow step

on it, after which it is thrown into the fire. The bride is stripped

of all her superfluous ornaments, and the company take their places

about the room. The bridegroom builds a fire and prepares the food,

which had been brought for the purpose, and entertains the people of

the village. The next day, the host entertains the visiting company,

after which every one goes home, except the bride and groom, who

remain to serve her father for a time.

The dress of the men differs but slightly from that of the women. Both

wear the same kind of upper garment, with the skirts either cut off an

equal length all around, or with the back part longer than the front.

The women have an under garment which they usually wear at home. It

consists of a combination of trousers and waistcoat, the trousers

being tied about the leg below the knee, and the waistcoat being tied

with a cord. As might be supposed, the covering for feet and ankles is

a most important matter in this far northern country. In the

summer-time, when the ground is generally one wide marsh, they wear

the skins of seals, with the hair turned out, but often make their

leggings of the skin of reindeer legs. The very finest foot-wear is

made with the sole of white sealskin, and the upper of fine dyed

leather from the hind quarters of a white dogskin. The part that

incases the calf of the leg is made of dressed leather or dyed

sealskin. The tops are always richly embroidered with silk thread. If

a young man is adorned with these shoes, immediately it is concluded

that he is in search of a wife.

Since the complete conquest of these parts by the Russians war has

been practically unknown, but during the process of conquest the

natives made a stubborn resistance. They never fought in the open, but

always by stratagem. A company of Cossacks, arriving at a village,

would be hospitably received, the tribute would be paid, and large

presents made in addition; but when all suspicion had been lulled to

rest the Cossacks were likely to wake in the night to find themselves

in the midst of flames. If any one succeeded in breaking through the

flames, a worse fate awaited him; for then he was slowly tortured to

death by burning, or cut to pieces and disemboweled while yet alive.

If the natives were in strong force, upon hearing of the approach of

the Cossacks they would retire to some high place, which they would

strongly fortify and hold as best they could against the invaders. If

unable to hold their position, they would first cut the throats of the

women and children, and then throw themselves over a precipice, or

rush upon the enemy to be ruthlessly cut down.

These people have indistinct notions about a deity, but they render

him no homage. On the contrary, they treat his name with the utmost

irreverence, and relate stories about him that rival the scandals of

Olympus. They blame him for making so many steep hills, so many rapid

rivers, and for sending so many storms. Sometimes they raise a pillar

in the plain and bind it around with rags, and whenever they pass,

throw at it pieces of fish or other food. But it is noted that they

give nothing that they can use themselves--only the tails of fish or

other refuse. Besides these pillars, there are other places that they

reckon sacred, such as smoking mountains, hot springs, and certain

forests, all of which they imagine to be inhabited by devils, whom

they fear much more than the gods.

A Russian who lived for a long time among these people says of them:

All their beliefs concerning both gods and devils are

certainly very simple and ridiculous; however, it shows that

they endeavor to account for the existence of everything as

far as they are able; and some of them try to penetrate into

the thoughts even of the birds and fishes. But when once a

belief is established they never trouble themselves with

inquiring whether the thing be possible or not. Hence their

religion depends entirely upon ancient tradition, which they

believe without questioning. They have no notion of a

supreme being that influences their happiness or misery, but

hold that every man's good or bad fortune depends upon

himself. The world, they believe, is eternal, the soul

immortal, and that it shall again be joined to the body and

live eternally, subject to the same fatigues and troubles as

in this present life, with this difference only: that they

shall have a greater abundance of all the necessaries of

life. Even the smallest animals, they believe, will rise

again and dwell under the earth. They think the earth is

flat, and that under it there is a firmament like ours; and

under that firmament another earth like ours; in which when

we have summer they have winter, and when we have winter

they have summer. With regard to future rewards and

punishments they believe that in the other world the rich

will be poor and the poor will be rich.

Their notions of vice and virtue are as extraordinary as

those they entertain of God. They believe everything lawful

that procures them the satisfaction of their wishes and

passions, and think that only is sinful from which they

apprehend danger or ruin; so that they reckon neither

murder, suicide, or adultery, oppression, nor the like any

wickedness: on the contrary, they look upon it as a mortal

sin to save any one that is drowning, because, according to

their notions, whoever saves such an one will soon be

drowned himself. They reckon it likewise a sin to bathe in

or to drink hot water, or to go up to the burning mountains.

They worship several animals from which they apprehend

danger. They offer fire at the holes of sables and foxes;

when fishing they entreat the whales or sea-horses not to

overturn their boats; and in hunting they beseech the bears

and wolves not to hurt them.

The wandering Koraks are extremely jealous, and sometimes kill their

wives upon the merest suspicion. Adultery is punished by the death of

both parties. This extreme jealousy on the part of husbands accounts

for the fact that the women take no care of their persons, and are

always dirty and repulsive. They say that their husbands believe that

any attempt at personal adornment would be a sign that they were

wavering in their affections, for their husbands can love them without

any such adornment. With the Koraks who live in the "hour-glass"

houses the case is reversed, for they are extremely careless of the

virtue of their wives and daughters; so much so, that frequently they

lend either the one or the other to their guests or special friends. A

refusal of this civility they consider the greatest affront.

Among all these tribes, except the Kamchadales, theft is considered

reputable so long as one does not steal from people of his own tribe.

When discovered, theft is punished severely, but only because the

thief was not clever enough to escape detection. A Tchuktche girl may

not marry until she has proved her dexterity in this line. Murder is

not looked upon as particularly heinous, unless one kills a

fellow-tribesman. In that case the relatives of the dead avenge the

crime. Consanguineous marriages are extremely common. A man often

takes a cousin, an aunt, or even a mother-in-law as his wife. In fact,

any relative except his mother or daughter may become his wife.

As soon as a child is born they set aside for it a number of reindeer,

but the child cannot claim them till he has reached maturity. In

naming a child, they often go through a certain formality. Having set

up two sticks, they tie a string across the top, and from the middle

hang a stone. Then they repeat the names of the child's relatives,

and, during the course of this recital, should the stone appear to

shake or move, the name spoken at that moment is given to the child.

Without doubt the most curious custom among these people is that

childbirth is a public function, and the whole village may assemble to

witness the event.

The dead are commonly burned. The corpse is dressed in his finest

clothes, and drawn to the place of cremation by his favorite deer. A

great pile of wood is fired, and into the flames are thrown the dead

man's arms and some of his household utensils. After this the deer are

killed, and they, together with the man's body, are thrown upon the

fire. A year later they bring to the place of cremation two young deer

and a large number of deer horns, and, burying the latter, they make a

pretense of sending a herd of deer to the dead man for his use in the

nether world.

In Search of a Siberian Klondike · 第 13 / 16 章