CHAPTER VI

IN THE HEEL AND TOE OF THE BOOT

It is a very nearly safe prophecy to say that the heel of the Italian

Boot, or rather southern Molise and Apulia, shall yet pour forth the

greatest flood of southern Italian emigrants bound for America which has

yet been witnessed in the varying exodus from southern Europe. There

have been times when it seemed as if these provinces were about to rise

and distance Campania and Sicily, whose flow has generally been the

largest; but the great mass of the peasantry of the Apulian plain has

not yet started toward America, and will not until the status of the

Italian emigrant in America becomes similar to that of the Irish in

1878–79, a quantity respected and duly reckoned with, or until the

steamship companies make Bari, Brindisi, or Taranto ports of direct

departure for the United States.

As remarked previously, the fluctuations of the volume of emigration, as

viewed in retrospect and from this side of the water, are hardly

understood, though a social crisis in Russia always produces an

outpouring of the Jews, good crops in the Northwest an increase in

Scandinavians, and a period of strikes in the United States an augmented

Polish immigration. The figures for the past twelve years, taken from

June till June, compared with the relative wage rate, are interesting:

_Year_ _Immigrants Arrived_ _Average Daily Wage in U. S._

1891 489,407 $1.00.

1892 579,663 1.00.30

1893 439,730 .99.32

1894 285,631 .98.06

1895 258,536 .97.88

1896 343,267 .97.93

1897 230,832 .98.96

1898 229,299 .98.79

1899 311,715 1.01.54

1900 448,572 1.03.43

1901 487,918 1.05.62

1902 648,743 1.04.93

1903 857,046 1.03.89

It will appear that there are other and less understood influences at

work, to cause the swelling or diminishing of the flood of immigrants,

than the wage rate in the country. In a previous chapter I have noted

the bearing of the prospect of more stringent immigrant legislation on

the flood of 1903, and in the section of the country now under

discussion we found abundant evidences of the effects of the news spread

far and wide that people who did not get into the United States soon

would find it more difficult than ever to get in.

Many, many families on the Apulian plain, who had been doing very well

so far, were preparing to depart for the United States just as soon as

the harvest season was over. They had been intending to go to the United

States for some years, but had put it off, fearing to disturb a

condition that was well enough, but nevertheless being fully decided,

sooner or later, to go to the United States. The prospect of a law

excluding illiterates precipitated them. Many of these same families are

already in this country, having left their homes since we visited them.

[Illustration: Threshing Beans]

There is something that is insistently Greek about the people of the

Heel, and they more nearly approach the Oriental than any others of the

Italian provincials. I do not think they have quite the passionate

natures of the Sicilians or the ruggedness of the mountain Calabrese,

nor are they as energetic as their fleas, which are certainly the

liveliest I have ever encountered.

To the casual observer they seem to be lazy, and their habitations

present a certain neglected appearance that is strongly contrasted with

those houses in each town which have been rehabilitated with money sent

home from America. But the people are not lazy. They are merely bound by

traditional methods of doing things, and by an unconquerable

sub-malarial condition. In many spots one will see large plantations of

_Eucalyptus globulus_ planted to counteract malaria.

There is an odd theory, of interest only because of its oddity, that the

famous Apulian fevers are the results of the dissolution of the numbers

of men fallen in battles which have taken place on Apulian soil. A

little computation and historical reference shows millions of men to

have fallen in the Heel, and when the armies of the Crusaders camped

about Brindisi they were nearly wiped out by death from sickness. Ever

since that time fevers have prevailed, and there are some spots that are

certain death to any foreigner should he sleep there over night.

Large quantities of cotton are grown in this region, and when one is

travelling south it will be noticed that shortly after the groves of

hazelnuts, beeches, and chestnuts cease, the first plantations of cotton

will begin to appear. The plain of Cannæ roughly marks the limit of the

cotton country. Around the Gulf of Taranto there will be seen large

fields of cotton and saffron, and though the country is very fertile and

densely populated, the agricultural system is very bad, and the ground

inefficiently cultivated merely because it is a centuries-old custom to

let the ground lie fallow for two years after each crop.

Olive orchards flourish, and nearly every considerable town is a centre

of salad-oil manufacture. Oranges are grown in abundance, but cannot

compete with the Sicilian for export. The Apulian wine is very fine,

being much softer than the Sicilian, yet not as popular as the wines of

Capri and the Vesuvius region.

About Cotrone the finest licorice in the world is produced, and in many

spots there will be seen clusters of date palms, though the fruit does

not mature as fully as it should.

Much of the wood required for artificial purposes in southern Italy

comes from western Apulia, Potenza and Calabria. Fine oaks, beeches,

chestnuts, etc., grown on the mountains, and the Sila chain, whose

highest peak is snow-covered, are well clad with pines which afford what

the Italian carpenter calls _legno bianco_ (white wood).

Aside from agriculture, some of the few industries are wood-cutting,

taxed unbearably by the government, sulphur-mining at Eboli, salt-mining

about Lungro, honey-producing about Taranto, fish-catching and exporting

from the same town, velvet and silk producing in and about Catanzaro,

and sheep and goat herding in the Sila chain. The agricultural products

are the mainstay of the people, who are so densely packed in some

communities that if it were not for the _Cactus opuntia_, which is grown

in hedges in place of fences, there would be scarcely enough to eat.

The town of Taranto, which is built on a rock cut off from the land by a

239–feet-wide canal, which will allow the passage of any battle-ship in

the Italian navy, is possibly the most densely inhabited spot on the

earth. Sixty thousand people live there in a space so small that New

York’s most thickly populated tenement districts do not compare with it.

An odd thing is noticeable in this town, especially among the fishermen

of the Mare Piccolo. The Italian is generously tinctured with Greek, and

among the totally illiterate the jargon is absolutely unintelligible to

an outsider.

Around the Heel nearly all the settlements are well back from the coast,

and strange to say the reason is, not that it is healthier or more

convenient, but that in the Middle Ages they were established there

because it was not safe to live alongshore. Since then no one has

thought of changing; in fact the entire region, except as it has been

stirred by the letters of emigrants and the doctrines of Socialists and

Anarchists, seems to live by the precept, “What is, is best.”

Something of the deep establishment of customs and of the religious

state of the country can be gathered from the following. In Bari there

is the Church of San Nicola, than whom there is no more revered saint in

all Italia Meridionale, wherefore note the number of Nicolas. In the

crypt his remains are supposed to be encased in a tomb from which exudes

on and about the 8th of May an oily substance that is miraculous.

Pilgrims come for the feast of the 8th of May by thousands and

thousands, and nearly all of them are in the costume of the remoter

villages. On the promontory at Cotrone stands a pillar which marks the

site of the temple of Hera, once the goddess of all the peoples about

the Gulf of Taranto, but now it has for a neighbor the Church of the

Madonna del Capo, and each Saturday young girls from the region about go

in procession to the church in their bare feet, all clad in white.

The people in many of the towns are primitive, especially in the

Basilicatan Mountains, where strangers are often as unwelcome as they

are to-day among the mountaineers of East Tennessee. Some few families

control nearly all the tillable land, and exact from the poor peasants

one-half of all they produce on it for rent. To the American farmer who

has been long accustomed to raising a crop on shares, that does not

sound very bad, but the _latifondo_, as this system is called, is one of

the curses of Italia Meridionale to-day, and in that portion of this

narrative which deals with our studies in Sicily, where the same

condition prevails as in Apulia, Basilicata, and Calabria, I shall give

more definite expression on the system. One of the very powerful

families in this region is the Baracco family, and they literally hold

in their hands the fate of a vast region.

Not only is the country very primitive in spots, but in some it is

exceedingly wild. About Mount Vulture, and especially in the great

half-destroyed lateral crater, the forests are so dense as to be almost

impenetrable, and wolves and wild boars are numerous.

Leaving entirely the consideration of the regions of the Heel, and

speaking only of Basilicata and Calabria, which have been pouring

emigrants into the United States, there should be mentioned the great

enemy of the peasant, which has driven more men to America than any

other thing, the terrible _torrente_.

It is merely a mountain stream, totally dry in the summer time, as what

little water might course down it is carried along in clay-lined

irrigating ditches, and distributed along the face of the hills

sometimes hundreds of feet above the level of the river bed, so cleverly

are some of the canals constructed. But, in the rainy season, when

enormous quantities of water are precipitated every day on the mountain

sides, the _torrente_ becomes a devilish agent of destruction, and its

waters devastate whole communes in a few hours.

These districts have struggled to wall in with masonry and concrete the

whole course of the stream, and to clear the bed of all obstructions

which would prevent the current having a straight, easy plunge to the

sea, but the water is perverse, and it is not unusual for the

best-curbed _torrentes_ to rip out their walls and ruin in a night the

labor of twenty years. Taxes and volunteer labor to repair communal

works, and expenditures and labors to patch up private estates, have so

impoverished the people that in many places they have been forced to

abandon, not only any attempt to curb the _torrente_, but to maintain

any department of the communal government that costs as much as a penny.

The general taxes went unpaid, and when the government forced sales of

houses and gardens, the people simply abandoned their places and became

wanderers or emigrated to America. At the present time nearly all of the

villages are in a condition that is much improved. Money sent home from

America is doing it. But the _torrentes_ are just as bad as ever, and so

long as they keep the people impoverished there will be no money to pay

for the maintenance of schools.

Sicily has a slight advantage in the formation of the country, but there

the _torrente_ is still the object of constant vigilance and does much

damage. People of intelligence are fully aroused to conditions in Italia

Meridionale, and a very excellent expression of the provincial attitude

was given in an article by Signor Enzo Saffiotti, which appeared in the

_Gazetta di Messina della Calabrie_ on the 15th of September, 1903. It

is given below:

THE SOUTHERN QUESTION CONFRONTS THE COUNTRY.

Congressional resolutions and government promises. The burden on the

Southern press. Great discontent among the people. Résumé of the

past thirty years of conditions. Riots in 1893. Agrarian and

mining crises. The Church’s tenths, the great landed estates

renting system and the confiscated demesnial properties. Heavy

usuries and peasants’ land contracts. Economic-social revival.

Appeal to Southern deputies. Restoration’s era.

We must not grow weary of repeating it!

One of the most urgent and yet most difficult problems which the

government and parliament have been called upon and are obliged and

bound promptly to solve in the present course of our national life is

the question of the condition of southern Italy. In order that such a

mighty and intricate matter may be properly adjusted, verily must it be

known to its every limit and studied through its every cause.

It is the task of the press, and particularly of the Southern press, to

associate its endeavors with noble and unselfish intention, to direct

with exactitude the current of public sentiment in the country, so that

it shall force the government to efficacious measures and precautions.

These may be obtained through some financial sacrifice and reduction of

useless expenditures in the state budgets.

The state cannot entrench itself behind financial difficulties when a

question that is not regional arises, for there are those to devise ways

out of the difficulty.

The deficit of many millions could in no manner continue to enfeeble the

state budget if a preference were given to the productive works, and the

national economic conditions would certainly be revived.

In parliamentary sessions, debates on the Southern question have at all

times been closed with vague votes and presidential assurances, the

latter filled with so many pretty promises for the improvement of these

our generous and forgotten regions.

They are promises which will doubtless continue to remain unfulfilled,

just as the preceding mass of assurances delivered by administrations,

leaders, and ministers. Meantime the South is waiting and will continue

to wait for those prompt reforms and vigorous measures which would

assist greatly in raising the economic status, and for the future

disclose a horizon bright and clear. It is anxious to be lifted from

that condition of humbled inferiority into which the guilty carelessness

of its rulers have thrust it.

Just a little has been done, comparatively nothing, directly to the

advantage of our population, harassed as it has been by the different

forms of commercial and industrial crises and vexed with all kinds of

local and fiscal taxes, yet they ever know how to keep high and

unchanging the Unitarian sentiment of the nation.

The cause of recurrent convulsions of agitation among the working class

and the slender middle class is not entirely to be attributed to the

propagation of socialistic doctrines, as the government is so ready to

explain it. It is all a leaven of discontent working within the

population, a realization of the isolation in which they are left, of

the deprivation of the rightful help and support from the government

which with provident laws and measures should defend their interests,

and further encourage and protect their industrial undertakings.

The various ministers, during the last thirty years of Italian political

life, have done nothing that was remarkable for these Southern regions,

whose economic conditions, though troublesome in the beginning, have

gradually grown worse.

As a matter of fact, the recurrence of those social phenomena have given

people at a distance who were inclined to turn their observation and

consideration on our affairs, a different impression from that which

would be gathered if the inward causes were otherwise studied, and this

attests in a very considerable way the moral sentiment of our people,

who, though of great sensitiveness and resentful of wrong, quietly

sustain the additional adversity of being misunderstood, even when

instinctively rebellious to all forms of oppressive authority.

On the day after the conflict in 1893, when the administration of that

day set on foot measures to favor the Southern provinces, which should

eventually alleviate the severe hardships of our condition, the

universal discontent began to disappear rapidly.

The resumption of quiet was not the result of the presence of bayonets

and the pronouncing of exemplary sentences from temporary tribunals, for

our people fear neither, but came about through the administration’s

pledging itself to help the population and hurriedly presenting to

parliament new and old schemes for relief. Owing to political changes,

these remained merely in their former status, that of schemes. Our

people, mindful of the past, realize in the new promises of the

government nothing but a quantity of pious lies, destined to deceive or

satisfy, if for no other reason, with their beautiful sound and

appearance. So pretences and claims on behalf of these promises are

merely like bad drafts of short date, and even had the government

fulfilled them it would not have been generosity, but apportioned

justice.

The hardships of southern Italy—those of Sicily are common with those of

the other regions—are of an economical nature, and arise from complex

causes, in which are competing factors, but antique and recent,

permanent and transitory, and thus inducing excessive taxes divided

unjustly, agrarian and mining crises, lack of needed public works, not

of merely electoral nature, but of a most necessary sort, the

insufficience of roads to connect districts, and the disproportionate

rates of the railroads for freight and transportation.

The first step toward a gradual reduction of these oppressive tariffs,

after so many years in which there has been so much complaint, has at

least been achieved in a very cautious way by the first ordinance of

Minister Palenzo, which went into effect with good results at the

beginning of the present month. It is to be hoped that our legislators

will uphold it with additional and greater reductions.

There still remain unsolved some other notable questions, among which

are the annual tithes of one-tenth taken by the Church, the system of

renting piecemeal large properties on oppressive leases to the peasants,

and others, all waiting these many years to be adjusted and regulated by

a wise legislation. Also from the distribution and opening up for

cultivation of the great demesnial estates (Church property confiscated

by the governments a quarter of a century ago), Sicily and the other

southern provinces could extract great benefit and profit.

The provincial evils will increase gradually, but powerfully, if radical

reforms are not introduced and carried out in the matter of the existing

agrarian régime, in which pauper peasants, on account of their miserable

condition, are making themselves greater burden-bearers under onerous

and usurious contracts, thus prostituting their industry to usury and

impeding all agricultural progress.

Meanwhile the population is increasing so rapidly that the products of

the soil are become insufficient for their very necessities. Prompt aid

to agriculture, which is the important resource of southern Italy, is

needed if the Meridionale population hope to derive any increase in

benefit or profit. Only with a readjustment of the agricultural régime

and the leasing of country properties may we hope for a true and healthy

social revival. With the renewal of parliamentary procedures it is to be

hoped that the government will seriously undertake the Southern Italian

question.

Our deputations—they who should be examples of harmony and

tenacity—instead of being objects of daily criticism, should join

compactly together, without making disrupting questions of party, race,

or political gradation, and demand and obtain those reforms waited for

so long.

They should have a sole intention, a single aim: to redeem the provinces

of southern Italy from the straits in which they lie so cruelly

oppressed. Returning to Montecitorio’s halls they should not evade their

principal duty. Discussions about this matter there have been in plenty,

until now we demand action; on behalf of the dignity and prestige of the

entire nation, the solution of the Southern Italian problem is clearly

imposed upon them. The legislative body has already announced its

position of being willing, and facing its promises it cannot honorably

fail.

After so many depreciations too often inspired by misconceptions, after

so many accusations, discredits, and imputations treacherously cast on

our patriotic population, there might come suddenly an era of

reparation—it might come at once!

The South is waiting!

ENZO SAFIOTTI.

This, though comprehensive and with more than one carefully veiled

threat in the lines, is only one of the many strong articles appearing

in the southern papers, and it is among the mildest. When the situation

is reviewed, I believe it not ill considered to say that Italy owes her

immunity from a great rebellion in the south to the relief afforded by

emigration and emigrant savings.

[Illustration: Scilla—Draught-oxen of Italy]

Imported Americans The Story of the Experiences of a Disguised American and His Wife Studying the Immigration Question · 第 6 / 22 章