As a whole, Stuttgart is a thoroughly dull place. Its immedi

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A

BIBLIOGRAPHICAL

Antiquarian

AND

PICTURESQUE TOUR.

PRINTED BY WILLIAM NICOL, AT THE

Shakspeare Press

[Illustration: FILLE DE CHAMBRE, NUREMBERG]

A BIBLIOGRAPHICAL, Antiquarian AND PICTURESQUE TOUR IN FRANCE AND GERMANY.

BY THE REVEREND THOMAS FROGNALL DIBDIN, D.D.

MEMBER OF THE ROYAL ACADEMY AT ROUEN, AND OF THE ACADEMY OF UTRECHT.

SECOND EDITION.

VOLUME III.

[Illustration: Logo]

DEI OMNIA PLENA.

LONDON:

PUBLISHED BY ROBERT JENNINGS, AND JOHN MAJOR.

1829.

CONTENTS OF VOLUME III.

CONTENTS

VOLUME III.

LETTER I.

Strasbourg to Stuttgart. Baden. The Elder Schweighæuser. STUTTGART.

The Public Library. The Royal Library, 1

LETTER II.

The Royal Palace. A Bibliographical Negotiation. Dannecker the Sculptor.

Environs of Stuttgart, 43

LETTER III.

Departure from Stuttgart. ULM. AUGSBOURG.

The Picture Gallery at Augsbourg, 55

LETTER IV.

AUGSBOURG. Civil and Ecclesiastical Architecture.

Population. Trade. The Public Library, 91

LETTER V.

MUNICH. Churches. Royal Palace. Picture Gallery.

The Public Library, 105

LETTER VI. Further Book-Acquisitions. Society.

The Arts, 149

LETTER VII.

Freysing. Landshut. Altöting. Salzburg.

The Monastery of St. Peter, 169

LETTER VIII.

Salzburg to Chremsminster. The Lake Gmunden.

The Monastery of Chremsminster. Lintz, 206

LETTER IX.

The Monasteries of St. Florian, Mölk, and Göttwic, 232

LETTER X.

VIENNA. Imperial Library. Illuminated MSS. and

early printed Books, 279

LETTER XI.

Population. Streets and Fountains. Churches. Convents. Palaces.

Theatres. The Prater. The Emperor's Private Library. Collection of Duke

Albert. Suburbs. Monastery of Closterneuburg. Departure from

Vienna, 335

SUPPLEMENT.

Ratisbon, Nuremberg, Manheim, 407

LETTER I.

STRASBOURG TO STUTTGART. BADEN. THE ELDER SCHWEIGHÆUSER. STUTTGART. THE

PUBLIC LIBRARY. THE ROYAL LIBRARY.

_Stuttgart, Poste Royale, August 4, 1818._

Within forty-eight hours of the conclusion of my last, I had passed the

broad and rapidly-flowing Rhine. Having taken leave of all my hospitable

acquaintances at Strasbourg, I left the _Hôtel de l'Esprit_ between five

and six in the afternoon--when the heat of the day had a little

subsided--with a pair of large, sleek, post horses; one of which was

bestrode by the postilion, in the red and yellow livery of the duchy of

Baden.

Our first halting place, to change horses, was _Kehl_; but we had not

travelled a league on this side of the Rhine, ere we discovered a palpable

difference in the general appearance of the country. There was more

pasture-land. The houses were differently constructed, and were more

generally surrounded by tall trees. Our horses carried us somewhat fleetly

along a good, broad, and well-conditioned road. Nothing particularly

arrested our attention till we reached _Bischoffsheim, à la haute monté_;

where the general use of the German language soon taught us the value of

our laquais; who, from henceforth, will be often called by his baptismal

name of Charles. At Bischoffsheim, while fresh horses were being put to, I

went to look at the church; an humble edifice--but rather picturesquely

situated. In my way thither I passed, with surprise, a great number of

_Jews_ of both sexes; loitering in all directions. I learnt that this place

was the prescribed _limits_ of their peregrinations; and that they were not

suffered, by law, to travel beyond it: but whether this law restricted them

from entering Suabia, or Bavaria, I could not learn. I approached the

church, and with the aid of a good-natured verger, who happened luckily to

speak French, I was conducted all over the interior--which was sufficiently

neat. But the object of my peculiar astonishment was, that Jews,

Protestants, and Catholics, all flocked alike, and frequently, at the SAME

TIME, to exercise their particular forms of worship within this church!--a

circumstance, almost partaking of the felicity of an Utopian commonwealth.

I observed, indeed, a small crucifix upon the altar, which confirmed me in

the belief that the Lutheran worship, according to the form of the

Augsbourg confession, was practised here; and the verger told me there was

no other place of worship in the village. His information might be

deceitful or erroneous; but it is to the honour of his character that I

add, that, on offering him a half florin for his trouble in shewing me the

church, he seemed to think it a point of conscience _not_ to receive it.

His refusal was mild but firm--and he concluded by saying, gently repelling

the hand which held the money, "jamais, jamais!" Is it thus, thought I to

myself, that "they order things in" Germany?

The sun had set, and the night was coming on apace, after we left

_Bischoffsheim_, and turned from the high road on the left, leading to

Rastadt to take the right, for _Baden_. For the advantage of a nearer cut,

we again turned to the right--and passed through a forest of about a league

in length. It was now quite dark and late: and if robbers were abroad, this

surely was the hour and the place for a successful attack upon defenceless

travellers. The postboy struck a light, to enjoy the comfort of his pipe,

which he quickly put to his mouth, and of which the light and scent were

equally cheering and pleasant. We were so completely hemmed in by trees,

that their branches brushed strongly in our faces, as we rolled swiftly

along. Every thing was enveloped in silence and darkness: but the age of

banditti, as well as of chivalry--at least in Germany--appears to be

"gone." We sallied forth from the wood unmolested; gained again the high

road; and after discerning some lights at a distance, which our valet told

us (to our great joy) were the lights of BADEN, we ascended and

descended--till, at midnight, we entered the town. On passing a bridge,

upon which I discerned a whole-length statue of _St. Francis_, (with the

infant Christ in his arms) we stopped, to the right, at the principal

hotel, of which I have forgotten the name; but of which, one Monsieur or Le

Baron Cotta, a bookseller of this town, is said to be the proprietor.

The servants were yet stirring: but the hotel was so crowded that it was

impossible to receive us. We pushed on quickly to another, of which I have

also forgotten the name--and found the principal street almost entirely

filled by the carriages of visitors. Here again we were told there was no

room for us. Had it not been for our valet, we must have slept in the open

street; but he recollected a third inn, whither we went immediately, and to

our joy found just accommodation sufficient. We saw the carriage safely put

into the remise, and retired to rest. The next morning, upon looking out of

window, every thing seemed to be faëry land. I had scarcely ever before

viewed so beautiful a spot. I found the town of Baden perfectly surrounded

by six or seven lofty, fir-clad hills, of tapering forms, and of luxuriant

verdure. Thus, although compared with such an encircling belt of hills,

Baden may be said to lie in a hollow--it is nevertheless, of itself, upon

elevated ground; commanding views of lawns, intersected by gravel walks; of

temples, rustic benches, and detached buildings of a variety of

description. Every thing, in short, bespeaks nature improved by art; and

every thing announced that I was in a place frequented by the rich, the

fashionable, and the gay.

I was not long in finding out the learned and venerable SCHWEIGHÆUSER, who

had retired here, for a few weeks, for the benefit of the waters--which

flow from _hot_ springs, and which are said to perform wonders. Rheumatism,

debility, ague, and I know not what disorders, receive their respective and

certain cures from bathing in these tepid waters. I found the Professor in

a lodging house, attached to the second hotel which we had visited on our

arrival. I sent up my name, with a letter of introduction which I had

received from his Son. I was made most welcome. In this celebrated Greek

scholar, and editor of some of the most difficult ancient Greek authors, I

beheld a figure advanced in years--somewhere about seventy-five--tall,

slim, but upright, and firm upon his legs: with a thin, and at first view,

severe countenance--but, when animated by conversation, and accompanied by

a clear and melodious voice, agreeable, and inviting to discourse. The

Professor was accompanied by one of his daughters; strongly resembling her

brother, who had shewn me so much kindness at Strasbourg. She told me her

father was fast recovering strength; and the old gentleman, as well as his

daughter, strongly invited us to dinner; an invitation which we were

compelled to decline.

On leaving, I walked nearly all over the town, and its immediate environs:

but my first object was the CHURCH, upon the top of the hill; from which

the earliest (_Protestant_) congregation were about to depart--not before I

arrived in time to hear some excellently good vocal and instrumental music,

from the front seat of a transverse gallery. There was much in this church

which had an English air about it: but my attention was chiefly directed to

some bronze monuments towards the eastern extremity, near the altar; and

fenced off, if I remember rightly, by some rails from the nave and side

aisles. Of these monuments, the earliest is that of _Frederick, Bishop of

Treves_. He died in 1517, in his 59th year. The figure of him is recumbent:

with a mitre on his head, and a quilted mail for his apron. The body is

also protected, in parts, with plate armour. He wears a ring upon each of

the first three fingers of his right hand. It is an admirable piece of

workmanship: bold, sharp, correct, and striking in all its parts. Near this

episcopal monument is another, also of bronze, of a more imposing

character; namely, of _Leopold William Margrave or Duke of Baden_, who died

in 1671, and of the _Duchess_, his wife. The figure of Leopold, evidently a

striking portrait, is large, heavy, and ungracious; but that of his wife

makes ample amends--for a more beautifully expressive and interesting

bronze figure, has surely never been reared upon a monumental pedestal. She

is kneeling, and her hands are closed--in the act of prayer. The head is

gently turned aside, as well as inclined: the mouth is very beautiful, and

has an uncommon sweetness of expression: the hair, behind, is singular but

not inelegant. The following is a part of the inscription: "_Vivit post

funera virtus. Numinis hinc pietas conjugis inde trahit_." I would give

half a dozen ducats out of the supplemental supply of Madame Francs to have

a fine and faithful copy of this very graceful and interesting monumental

figure. As I left the church, the second (_Catholic_) congregation was

entering for divine worship. Meanwhile the heavens were "black with

clouds;" the morning till eleven o'clock, having been insufferably hot and

a tremendous thunder storm--which threatened to deluge the whole place with

rain--moved, in slow and sullen majesty, quite round and round the town,

without producing any other effect than that of a few sharp flashes, and

growling peals, at a distance. But the darkened and flitting shadows upon

the fir trees, on the hills, during the slow wheeling of the threatening

storm, had a magnificently picturesque appearance.

The walks, lawns, and rustic benches about Baden, are singularly pretty and

convenient. Here was a play-house; there, a temple; yonder, a tavern,

whither the _Badenois_ resorted to enjoy their Sunday dinner. One of these

taverns was unusually large and convenient. I entered, as a stranger, to

look around me: and was instantly struck by the notes of the deepest-toned

bass voice I had ever heard--accompanied by some rapidly executed passages

upon the harp. These ceased--and the softer strains of a young female voice

succeeded. Yonder was a _master singer_[1]--as I deemed him--somewhat

stooping from age; with white hairs, but with a countenance strongly

characteristic of intellectual energy of _some_ kind. He was sitting in a

chair. By the side of him stood the young female, about fourteen, from

whose voice the strains, just heard, had proceeded. They sang alternately,

and afterwards together: the man holding down his head as he struck the

chords of his harp with a bold and vigorous hand. I learnt that they were

uncle and niece. I shall not readily forget the effect of these figures, or

of the songs which they sang; especially the sonorous notes of the

mastersinger, or minstrel. He had a voice of most extraordinary compass. I

quickly perceived that I was now in the land of music; but the guests

seemed to be better pleased with their food than with the songs of this old

bard, for he had scarcely received a half florin since I noticed him.

Professor Schweighæuser came to visit me at the appointed hour of six, in

order to have an evening stroll together to a convent, about two miles off,

which is considered to be the fashionable evening walk and ride of the

place. I shall long have reason to remember this walk; as well from the

instructive discourse of my venerable and deeply learned guide, as from the

beauty of the scenery and variety of the company. As the heat of the day

subsided, the company quitted their tables in great crowds. The mall was

full. Here was Eugene Beauharnois, drawn in a carriage by four black

steeds, with traces of an unusual length between the leaders and wheel

horses. A grand Duke was parading to the right: to the left, a Marchioness

was laughing _à pleine gorge_. Here walked a Count, and there rode a

General. Bavarians, Austrians, French, and English--intermixed with the

tradesmen of Baden, and the rustics of the adjacent country--all,

glittering in their gayest sabbath-attires, mingled in the throng, and

appeared to vie with each other in gaiety and loudness of talk.

We gained a more private walk, within a long avenue of trees; where a small

fountain, playing in the midst of a grove of elm and beech, attracted the

attention both of the Professor and ourselves. "It is here," observed the

former--"where I love to come and read your favourite Thomson." He then

mentioned Pope, and quoted some verses from the opening of his Essay on

Man--and also declared his particular attachment to Young and Akenside.

"But our Shakspeare and Milton, Sir--what think you of these?" "They are

doubtless very great and superior to either: but if I were to say that I

understood them as well, I should say what would be an untruth: and nothing

is more disgusting than an affectation of knowing what you have,

comparatively, very little knowledge of." We continued our route towards

the convent, at a pretty brisk pace; with great surprise, on my part, at

the firm and rapid movements of the Professor. Having reached the convent,

we entered, and were admitted within the chapel. The nuns had just retired;

but we were shewn the partition of wood which screens them most effectually

from the inquisitive eyes of the rest of the congregation. We crossed a

shallow, but rapidly running brook, over which was only one plank, of the

ordinary width, to supply the place of a bridge. The venerable Professor

led the way--tripping along so lightly, and yet so surely, as to excite our

wonder. We then mounted the hill on the opposite side of the convent; where

there are spiral, and neatly trimmed, gravel walks, which afford the means

of an easy and pleasant ascent--but not altogether free from a few sharp

and steep turnings. From the summit of this hill, the Professor bade me

look around, and view a valley which was the pride of the neighbourhood,

and which was considered to have no superior in Suabia. It was certainly

very beautiful--luxuriant in pasture and woodland scenery, and surrounded

by hills crowned with interminable firs.

As we descended, the clock of the convent struck eight, which was succeeded

by the tolling of the convent bell. After a day of oppressive heat, with a

lowering atmosphere threatening instant tempest, it was equally, grateful

and refreshing to witness a calm blue sky, chequered by light fleecy

clouds, which, as they seemed to be scarcely impelled along by the evening

breeze, were fringed in succession by the hues of a golden sun-set. The

darkening shadows of the trees added to the generally striking effect of

the scene. As we neared the town, I perceived several of the common people,

apparently female rustics, walking in couples, or in threes, with their

arms round each others necks, joining in some of the popular airs of their

country. The off-hand and dextrous manner in which they managed the _second

parts_, surprised and delighted me exceedingly. I expressed my

gratification to Mr. Schweighæuser, who only smiled at my wondering

simplicity. "If _these_ delight you so much, what would you say to our

_professors_?"--observed he. "Possibly, I might not like them quite so

well," replied I. The professor pardoned such apparent heresy; and we

continued to approach the town. We were thirsty from our walk, and wished

to enter the tea gardens to partake of refreshment. Our guide became here

both our interpreter and best friend; for he insisted upon treating us. We

retired into a bocage, and partook of one of the most delicious bottles of

white wine which I ever remember to have tasted. He was urgent for a second

bottle; but I told him we were very sober Englishmen.

In our way home, the discourse fell upon literature, and I was anxious to

obtain from our venerable companion an account of his early studies, and

partialities for the texts of such Greek authors as he had edited. He told

me that he was first put upon collations of Greek MSS. by our _Dr.

Musgrave_, for his edition of _Euripides_; and that he dated, from that

circumstance, his first and early love of classical research. This

attachment had increased upon him as he became older--had "grown with his

growth, and strengthened with his strength"--and had induced him to grapple

with the unsettled, and in parts difficult, texts of _Appian_, _Epictetus_,

and _Athenæus_. He spoke with a modest confidence of his _Herodotus_--just

published: said that he was even then meditating a _second_ Latin version

of it: and observed that, for the more perfect execution of the one now

before the public, he had prepared himself by a diligent perusal of the

texts of the purer Latin historians. We had now entered the town, and it

was with regret that I was compelled to break off such interesting

conversation. In spite of the lateness of the hour (ten o'clock) and the

darkness of the evening, the worthy old Grecian would not suffer me to

accompany him home--although the route to his house was devious, and in

part precipitously steep, and the Professor's sight was not remarkably

good. When we parted, it was agreed that I should breakfast with him on the

morrow, at eight o'clock, as we intended to quit Baden at nine.

The next morning, I was true to the hour. The Professor's coffee, bread,

butter, and eggs were excellent. Having requested our valet to settle every

thing at the inn, and bring the carriage and horses to the door of M.

Schweighæuser by nine o'clock, I took a hearty leave of our amiable and

venerable host, accompanied with mutual regrets at the shortness of the

visit--and with a resolution to cultivate an acquaintance so heartily

began. As we got into the carriage, I held up his portrait which Mr. Lewis

had taken,[2] and told him "he would be neither out of _sight_ nor out of

_mind_" He smiled graciously--waved his right hand from the balcony upon

which he stood--and by half-past nine we found the town of Baden in our

rear. I must say that I never left a place, which had so many attractions,

with keener regret, and a more fixed determination to revisit it. That

"revisit" may possibly never arise; but I recommend all English travellers

to spend a week, at the least, at Baden--called emphatically,

_Baden-Baden_. The young may be gratified by the endless amusements of

society, in many of its most polished forms. The old may be delighted by

the contemplation of nature in one of her most picturesque aspects, as well

as invigorated by the waters which gush in boiling streams from her rocky

soil.

I shall not detain you a minute upon the road from Baden to this place;

although we were nearly twenty-four hours so detained. _Rastadt_ and

_Karlsruhe_ are the only towns worth mentioning in the route. The former is

chiefly distinguished for its huge and tasteless castle or palace--a sort

of Versailles in miniature; and the latter is singularly pleasing to an

Englishman's eye, from the trim and neat appearance of the houses, walks,

and streets; which latter have the footpaths almost approaching to our

pavement. You enter and quit the town through an avenue of lofty and large

stemmed poplars, at least a mile long. The effect, although formal, is

pleasing. They were the loftiest poplars which I had ever beheld. The

churches, public buildings, gardens, and streets (of which _latter_ the

principal is a mile long) have all an air of tidiness and comfort; although

the very sight of them is sufficient to freeze the blood of an antiquary.

There is nothing, apparently, more than ninety-nine years old! We dined at

Karlsruhe, and slept at _Schweiberdingen_, one stage on this side of

Stuttgart: but for two or three stages preceding Stuttgart, we were

absolutely astonished at the multitude of apple-trees, laden, even to the

breaking down of the branches, with goodly fruit, just beginning to ripen:

and therefore glittering in alternate hues of red and yellow--all along the

road-side as well as in private gardens. The vine too was equally fruitful,

and equally promising of an abundant harvest.

There was a drizzling rain when we entered THIS TOWN. We passed the long

range of royal stables to the right, and the royal palace to the left; the

latter, with the exception of a preposterously large gilt crown placed upon

the central part of a gilt cushion, in every respect worthy of a royal

residence. On, driving to the hotel of the _Roi d'Angleterre_, we found

every room and every bed occupied; and were advised to go to the place from

whence I now address you. But the _Roman Emperor_ is considered to be more

fashionable: that is to say, the charges are more extravagant. Another

time, however, I will visit neither the one nor the other; but take up my

quarters at the _King of Wirtemberg_--the neatest, cleanliest, and most

comfortable hotel in Stuttgart. In _this_ house there is too much noise and

bustle for a traveller whose nerves are liable to be affected.

As a whole, Stuttgart is a thoroughly dull place. Its immediate environs

are composed of vine-covered hills, which, at this season of the year, have

an extremely picturesque appearance; but, in winter, when nothing but a

fallow-like looking earth is visible, the effect must be very dreary. This

town is large, and the streets--especially the _Könings-strasse,_ or

King-Street,--are broad and generally well paved. The population may be

about twenty-two thousand. He who looks for antiquities, will be cruelly

disappointed; with the exception of the _Hôtel de Ville_, which is placed

near a church, and more particularly of a _Crucifix_--there is little or

nothing to satisfy the hungry cravings of a thorough-bred English

Antiquary. The latter is of stone, of a rough grain, and sombre tint: and

the figures are of the size of life. They are partly mutilated; especially

the right leg of our Saviour, and the nose of St. John. Yet you will not

fail to distinguish, particularly from the folds of the drapery, that

precise character of art which marked the productions both of the chisel

and of the pencil in the first half of the sixteenth century. The Christ

is, throughout, even including the drapery, finely marked; and the attitude

of the Virgin, in looking up, has great expression. She embraces intensely

the foot of the cross; while her eyes and very soul seem to be as intensely

rivetted to her suffering and expiring Son.

I was not long in introducing myself to M. LE BRET, the head Librarian; for

the purpose of gaining admission to the PUBLIC LIBRARY. That gentleman and

myself have not only met, but met frequently and cordially. Each interview

only increased the desire for a repetition of it: and the worthy and

well-informed Head Librarian has partaken of a trout and veal dinner with

me, and shared in one bottle of _Fremder Wein_, and in another of

_Ordinärer Wein_.[3] We have, in short, become quite sociable; and I will

begin by affirming, that, a more thoroughly competent, active, and

honourable officer, for the situation which he occupies, his Majesty the

King of Würtemberg does not possess in any nook, corner, or portion of his

Suabian dominions. I will prove what I say at the point of--my pen. Yet

more extraordinary intelligence. A "deed of note" has been performed; and

to make the mystery more mysterious, you are to know that I have paid my

respects to the King, at his late levee; the first which has taken place

since the accouchement of the Queen.[4] And what should be the _object_ of

this courtly visit? Truly, nothing more or less than to agitate a question

respecting the possession of _two old editions of Virgil_, printed in the

year 1471. But let me be methodical.

When I parted from Lord Spencer on this "Bibliographical, Antiquarian and

Picturesque Tour," I was reminded by his Lordship of the second edition of

the _Virgil_ printed at Rome by _Sweynheym_ and _Pannartz_, and of another

edition, _printed by Adam_, in 1471, both being in the public library of

this place:--but, rather with a desire, than any seriously-grounded hope,

on his part of possessing them. Now, when we were running down upon

_Nancy_--as described in a recent despatch,[5] I said to Mr. Lewis, on

obtaining a view of what I supposed might be the Vosges, that, "behind the

Vosges was the _Rhine_, and on the other side of the Rhine was _Stuttgart!_

and it was at Stuttgart that I should play my first trump-card in the

bibliographical pack which I carried about me." But all this seemed

mystery, or methodised madness, to my companion. However, I always bore his

Lordship's words in mind--and something as constantly told me that I should

gain possession of these long sought after treasures: but in fair and

honourable combat: such as beseemeth a true bibliographical Knight.

Having proposed to visit the public library on the morrow--and to renew the

visit as often and as long as I pleased--I found, on my arrival, the worthy

Head Librarian, seriously occupied in a careful estimate of the value of

the Virgils in question--and holding up _Brunet's Manuel du Libraire_ in

his right hand--"Tenez, mon ami," exclaimed he, "vous voyez que la seconde

édition de Virgile, imprimée par vos amis Sweynheym et Pannartz, est encore

plus rare que la premiére." I replied that "c'étoit la fantasie seule de

l'auteur." However, he expressed himself ready to receive preliminaries,

which would be submitted to the Minister of the Interior, and by him--to

the King; for that the library was the exclusive property of his Majesty.

It was agreed, in the first instance, that the amount of the pecuniary

value of the two books should be given in modern books of our own country;

and I must do M. Le Bret the justice to say, that, having agreed upon the

probable pecuniary worth, he submitted a list of books, to be received in

exchange, which did equal honour to his liberality and judgment.

I have said something about the _local_ of this Public Library, and of its

being situated in the market-place.[6] This market-place, or square, is in

the centre of the town; and it is the only part, in the immediate vicinity

of which the antiquarian's eye is cheered by a sight of the architecture of

the sixteenth century. It is in this immediate vicinity, that the _Hôtel de

Ville_ is situated; a building, full of curious and interesting relics of

sculpture in wood and stone. Just before it, is a fountain of black marble,

where the women come to fetch water, and the cattle to drink. Walking in a

straight line with the front of the public library (which is at right

angles with the Hôtel de Ville) you gain the best view of this Hotel, in

conjunction with the open space, or market place, and of the churches in

the distance. About this spot, Mr. Lewis fixed himself, with his pencil and

paper in hand, and produced a drawing from which I select the following

felicitous portion.

[Illustration: Drawing]

But to return to the Public Library. You are to know therefore, that The

Public Library of Stuttgart contains, in the whole, about 130,000 volumes.

Of these, there are not fewer than 8200 volumes relating to the _Sacred

Text_: exclusively of duplicates. This library has been indeed long

celebrated for its immense collection of _Bibles_. The late King of

Würtemberg, but more particularly his father, was chiefly instrumental to

this extraordinary collection:--and yet, of the very earlier Latin

impressions, they want the _Mazarine_, or the _Editio Princeps_; and the

third volume of _Pfister's_ edition. Indeed the first volume of their copy

of the latter wants a leaf or two of prefatory matter. They have two copies

of the first _German Bible_, by _Mentelin_[7]--of which _one_ should be

disposed of, for the sake of contributing to the purchase of the earliest

edition of the Latin series. Each copy is in the original binding; but they

boast of having a _complete series of German Bibles_ before the time of

Luther; and of Luther's earliest impression of 1524, printed by Peypus,

they have a fine copy UPON VELLUM, like that in the Althorp Library; but I

think taller. Of Fust's Bible of 1462, there is but an indifferent and

cropt copy, upon paper; but of the _Polish Bible_ of 1563, there is a very

fine one, in the first oaken binding. Of _English Bibles_, there is no

edition before that of 1541, of which the copy happens to be imperfect.

They have a good large copy, in the original binding, of the _Sclavonian

Bible_ of 1581. Yet let me not dismiss this series of earlier Bibles,

printed in different languages, without noticing the copies of _Italian

versions_ of August and October 1471. Of the August impression, there is

unluckily only the second volume; but such _another_ second volume will not

probably be found in any public or private library in Europe. It is just as

if it had come fresh from the press of _Vindelin de Spira_, its printer.

Some of the capital letters are illuminated in the sweetest manner

possible. The leaves are white, unstained, and crackling; and the binding

is of wood. Of the _October_ impression, the copy is unequal: that is to

say, the first volume is cruelly cut, but the second is fine and tall. It

is in blue morocco binding. I must however add, in this biblical

department, that they possess a copy of our _Walton's Polyglott_ with the

_original dedication_ to King Charles II.; of the extreme rarity of which

M. Le Bret was ignorant.[8]

I now come to the CLASSICS. Of course the _two Virgils_ of 1471 were the

first objects of my examination. The _Roman_ edition was badly bound in red

morocco; that of _Adam_ was in its original binding of wood. When I opened

the _latter_, it was impossible to conceal my gratification. I turned to M.

Le Bret, and then to the book--and to the Head Librarian, and to the

book--again and again! "How now, Mons. Le Bibliographe?" (exclaimed the

professor--for M. Le Bret is a Professor of belles-lettres), "I observe

that you are perfectly enchanted with what is before you?" There was no

denying the truth of the remark--and I could plainly discern that the

worthy Head Librarian was secretly enjoying the attestations of my

transport. "The more I look at these two volumes (replied I, very leisurely

and gravely,) the more I am persuaded that they will become the property of

Earl Spencer." M. Le Bret laughed aloud at the strangeness of this reply. I

proceeded to take a particular account of them.[9]

Here is an imperfect copy of an edition of _Terence_, by _Reisinger_, in

folio; having only 130 leaves, and twenty-two lines in a full page.[10] It

is the first copy of this edition which I ever saw; and I am much deceived

if it be exceeded by any edition of the same author in rarity: and when I

say this, I am not unmindful of the Editio Princeps of it by

_Mentelin_--which happens _not_ to be here. There is, however, a

beautifully white copy of this latter printer's Editio Princeps of

_Valerius Maximus_; but not so tall as the largest of the two copies of

this same edition which I saw at Strasbourg. Of the _Offices of Cicero_, of

1466, there is rather a fine tall copy (within a quarter of an inch of ten

inches high) UPON VELLUM; in the original wooden binding. The first two or

three leaves have undergone a little martyrdom, by being scribbled upon. Of

J. de Spira's edition of the _Epistles of Cicero_, of 1469--having the

colophon on the recto of the last leaf--here is a fine, broad-margined

copy, which however ought to be cleansed from the stains which disfigure

it. I was grieved to see so indifferent a copy of the Edit. Prin. of

_Tacitus_: but rejoiced at beholding so large and beautiful a one (in its

original wooden binding) of the _Lucan_ of 1475, with the Commentary of

Omnibonus; printed as I conceive, by _I. de Colonia and M. de

Gherretzem_.[11]

But I had nearly forgotten to acquaint you with a remarkably fine,

thick-leaved, crackling copy--yet perhaps somewhat cropt--of Cardinal

_Bessarion's Epistles_, printed by Sweynheym and Pannartz at Rome in 1469.

It is in old gilt edges, in a sort of binding of wood.

I now come to the notice of a few choice and rare _Italian books_: and

first, for _Dante_. Here is probably the rarest of all the earlier editions

of this poet: that is to say, the edition printed at Naples by Tuppo, in

two columns, having forty-two lines in a full column. At the end of the

_Inferno_, we read "Gloria in excelsis Deo," in the gothic letter; the text

being uniformly roman. At the end of the _Purgatorio_:

SOLI DEO GLORIA.

Erubescat Judeus Infelir.

At the end of the _Paradiso_: DEO GRATIAS--followed by Tuppo's address to

Honofrius Carazolus of Naples. A register is on the recto of the following

and last leaf. This copy is large, but in a dreadfully loose, shattered,

and dingy state--in the original wooden binding. So precious an edition

should be instantly rebound. Here is the Dante of 1478, with the

_Commentary of Guido Terzago, printed at Milan in_ 1478, folio. The text of

the poet is in a fine, round, and legible roman type--that of the

commentator, in a small and disagreeable gothic character.

_Petrarch_ shall follow. The rarest edition of him, which I have been able

to put my hand upon, is that printed at Bologna in 1476 with the commentary

of Franciscus Philelphus. Each sonnet is followed by its particular

comment. The type is a small roman, not very unlike the smallest of Ulric

Han, or Reisinger's usual type, and a full page-contains forty-one lines.

Of _Boccaccio_, here is nothing which I could observe particularly worthy

of description, save the very rare edition of the _Nimphale_ of 1477,

printed by _Bruno Valla of Piedmont_, and _Thomaso of Alexandria._ A full

page has thirty-two lines.

I shall conclude the account of the rarer books, which it was my chance to

examine in the Public Library of Stuttgart, with what ought perhaps, more

correctly, to have formed the earliest articles in this partial

catalogue:--I mean, the _Block Books_. Here is a remarkably beautiful, and

uncoloured copy of the first Latin edition of the _Speculum Humanæ

Salvationis_. It _has_ been bound--although it be now unbound, and has been

unmercifully cut. As far as I can trust to my memory, the impressions of

the cuts in this copy are sharper and clearer than any which I have seen.

Of the _Apocalypse_, there is a copy of the second edition, wanting a leaf.

It is sound and clean, but coloured and cut. Unbound, but formerly bound.

Here is a late German edition of the _Ars Moriendi_, having thirty-four

lines on the first page. Of the _Historia Beatæ Virginis_, here is a copy

of what I should consider to be the second Latin edition; precisely like a

German edition of the _Biblia Pauperum_, with the express date of

1470,--which is also here. The similarity is in the style of art and

character of the type, which latter has much of a _Bamberg_ cast about it.

But of the _Latin Biblia Pauperum_ here is a copy of the first edition,

very imperfect, and in wretched condition. And thus much, or rather thus

little, for _Block Books._

A word or two now for the MANUSCRIPTS--which, indeed, according to the

order usually observed in these Letters, should have preceded the

description of the printed books. I will begin with a _Psalter,_ in small

folio, which I should have almost the hardihood to pronounce of the

_tenth_--but certainly of the early part of the _eleventh_--century. The

text is executed in lower-case roman letters, large and round. It abounds

with illuminations, of about two inches in height, and six in

length--running horizontally, and embedded as it were in the text. The

figures are, therefore, necessarily small. Most of these illuminations,

have a greenish back-ground. The armour is generally in the Roman fashion:

the helmets being of a low conical form, and the shields having a large

knob in the centre.

Next comes an _Evangelistarium_ "seculo undecimo aut circà annum

1100:--pertinuit ad Monasterium Gengensbachense in Germania, ut legitur in

margine primi folii." The preceding memorandum is written at the beginning

of the volume, but the inscription to which it alludes has been partly

destroyed--owing to the tools of a modern book-binder. The scription of

this old MS. is in a thick, lower case, roman letter. The illuminations are

interesting: especially that of the Scribe, at the beginning, who is

represented in a white and delicately ornamented gown, or roquelaure, with

gold, red, and blue borders, and a broad black border at bottom. The robe

should seem to be a monastic garment: but the figure is probably that of

St. Jerom. It is standing before an opened book. The head is shaved at top;

an azure glory is round the head. The back-ground of the whole is gold,

with an arabesque border. I wish I could have spared time to make a

facsimile of it. There are also figures of the four Evangelists, in the

usual style of art of this period; the whole in fine preservation. The

capital initials are capricious, but tasteful. We observe birds, beasts,

dragons, &c. coiled up in a variety of whimsical forms. The L. at the

beginning of the "Liber Generationis," is, as usual in highly executed

works of art of this period, peculiarly elaborate and striking.

A _Psalter_, of probably a century later, next claims our attention. It is

a small folio, executed in a large, bold, gothic character. The

illuminations are entirely confined to the capital initials, which

represent some very grotesque, and yet picturesque grouping of animals and

human figures--all in a state of perfect preservation. The gold

back-grounds are not much raised, but of a beautiful lustre. It is

apparently imperfect at the end. The _binding_ merits distinct notice. In

the centre of one of the outside covers, is a figure of the Almighty,

sitting; in that of the other, are the Virgin and Infant Christ, also

sitting. Each subject is an illumination of the time of those in the volume

itself; and each is surrounded by pencil-coloured ornaments, divided into

squares, by pieces of tin, or lead soldered. A sheet of _horn_ is placed

over the whole of the exterior cover, to protect it from injury. This

binding is uncommon, but I should apprehend it to be not earlier than the

very commencement of the xvth century.

I have not yet travelled out of the twelfth century; and mean to give you

some account of rather a splendid and precious MS. entitled _Vitæ

Sanctorum_--supposed to be of the same period. It is said to have been

executed under the auspices of the _Emperor Conrad,_ who was chosen in 1169

and died in 1193. It is an elegant folio volume. The illuminations are in

outline; in red, brown, or blue--firmly and truly touched, with very

fanciful inventions in the forms of the capital letters. The initial letter

prefixed to the account of the _Assumption of the Virgin_, is abundantly

clever and whimsical; while that prefixed to the Life of _St. Aurelius_ has

even an imposing air of magnificence, and is the most important in the

volume.

Here is a curious _History of the Bible, in German verse_, as I learn, by

Rudolph, Count of Hohen Embs. Whether "curious" or not, I cannot tell; but

I can affirm that, since opening the famous MS. of the Roman

d'Alexandre,[12] at Oxford, I have not met with a finer, or more genuine

MS. than the present. It is a noble folio volume; highly, although in many

places coarsely, adorned. The text is executed in a square, stiff, German

letter, in double columns; and the work was written (as M. Le Bret informed

me, and as warranted by the contents) "in obedience to the orders of the

Emperor Conrad, son of the Emperor Frederick II: the greater part of it

being composed after the chronicle of Geoffrey de Viterbe." To specify the

illuminations would be an endless task. At the end of the MS. are the

following colophonic verses:

_Uf den fridag was sts Brictius

Do nam diz buch ende alsus

Nach godis geburten dusint jar

Dar su ccc dni vnx achtzig als eyn har_.

the "_ccc_" are interlined, in red ink: but the whole inscription implies

that the book was finished in 1381, on Friday, the day of St. Brictius. It

follows therefore that it could not have been written during the life-time

of Conrad IV. who was elected Emperor in 1250. This interesting MS. is in a

most desirable condition.

There are two or three _Missals_ deserving only of brief notice. One, of

the XIVth century, is executed in large gothic letter; having an

exceedingly vivid and fresh illumination of a crucifixion, but in bad

taste, opposite the well-known passage of "Te igitur clementissime," &c. It

is bound in red satin. Two missals of the xvth century--of which one

presents only a few interesting prints connected with art. It is ornamented

in a sort of bistre outline, preparatory to colouring--of which numerous

examples may be seen in the Breviary of the Duke of Bedford in the Royal

Library at Paris.[13] I examined half a dozen more Missals, which the kind

activity of M. Le Bret had placed before me, and among them found nothing

deserving of particular observation,--except a thick, short, octavo volume,

in the German language, with characteristic and rather clever

embellishments; especially in the borders.

There is a folio volume entitled "_La Vie, Mort, et Miracles de St.

Jerome_." The first large illumination, which is prettily composed, is

unluckily much injured in some parts. It represents the author kneeling,

with his cap in his right hand, and a book bound in black, with gold clasps

and knobs, in the other. A lady appears to receive this presentation-volume

very graciously; but unfortunately her countenance is obliterated. Two

female attendants are behind her: the whole, gracefully composed. I take

this MS. to be of the end of the xvth. century. There is a most desirable

MS. of the _Roman de la Rose_--of the end of the xivth century; in double

columns; with some of the illuminations, about two inches square, very

sweet and interesting. That, on the recto of folio xiiij, is quite

charming. The "testament" of the author, J. de Meun, follows; quietly

decorated, within flowered borders. The last illumination but one, of our

Saviour, sitting upon a rainbow is very singular. This MS. is in its old

binding of wood.

A few _miscellaneous articles_ may be here briefly noticed. First: a German

metrical version of the Game of Chess, moralized, called _Der Schachzabel._

This is an extraordinary, and highly illuminated MS. upon paper; written in

a sort of secretary gothic hand, in short rhyming verse, as I conceive

about the year 1400, or 1450. The embellishments are large and droll, and

in several of them we distinguish that thick, and shining, but cracked coat

of paint which is upon the old print of St. Bridget, in Lord Spencer's

collection.[14] Among the more striking illuminations is the _Knight_ on

horseback, in silver armour, about nine inches high--a fine showy fellow!

His horse has silver plates over his head. Many of the pieces in the game

are represented in a highly interesting manner, and the whole is invaluable

to the antiquary. This MS. is in boards. Second: a German version of

_Maundeville_, of the date of 1471, with curious, large, and grotesque

illuminations, of the coarsest execution. It is written in double columns,

in a secretary gothic hand, upon paper. The heads of the Polypheme tribe

are ludicrously horrible. Third:--_Herren Duke of Brunswick_, or the

_Chevalier au Lion_,--a MS. relating to this hero, of the date of 1470. A

lion accompanies him every where. Among the embellishments, there is a good

one of this animal leaping upon a tomb and licking it--as containing the

mortal remains of his master. Fourth: a series of German stanzas, sung by

birds, each bird being represented, in outline, before the stanza

appropriated to it. In the whole, only three leaves.

The "last and not least" of the MSS. which I deem it worthy to mention, is

an highly illuminated one of _St. Austin upon the Psalms_. This was the

_first_ book which I remembered to have seen, upon the continent, from the

library of the famous _Corvinus King of Hungary,_ about which certain pages

have discoursed largely. It was also an absolutely beautiful book:

exhibiting one of the finest specimens of art of the latter end of the XVth

century. The commentary of the Saint begins on the recto of the second

leaf, within such a rich, lovely, and exquisitely executed border--as

almost made me forget the embellishments in the _Sforziada_ in the Royal

Library of France.[15] The border in question is a union of pearls and

arabesque ornaments quite standing out of the background ... which latter

has the effect of velvet. The arms, below, are within a double border of

pearls, each pair of pearls being within a gold circle upon an ultramarine

ground. The heads and figures have not escaped injury, but other portions

of this magical illumination have been rubbed or partly obliterated.

A ms. note, prefixed by M. Le Bret, informs us, in the opinion of its

writer, that this illumination was the work of one "_Actavantes de

Actavantibus of Florence_,--who lived towards the end of the XVth century,"

and who really seems to have done a great deal for Corvinus. The initial

letters, throughout this volume, delicately cross-barred in gold, with

little flowers and arabesques, &c. precisely resemble those in the MS. of

Mr. Hibbert.[16] Such a white, snowy page, as the one just in part

described, can scarcely be imagined by the uninitiated in ancient

illuminated MSS. The binding, in boards covered with leather, has the

original ornaments, of the time of Corvinus, which are now much faded. The

fore-edges of the leaves preserve their former gilt-stamped ornaments. Upon

the whole--an ALMOST MATCHLESS book!

A Bibliographical, Antiquarian and Picturesque Tour in France and Germany, Volume Three · 第 1 / 29 段