Portage and Old Fort Winnebago--Cemetery Where Soldiers of Several Wars
Are Buried--Waubun House
When Wisconsin was on the frontier, as a protection against the
Indians, three forts were built--Fort Howard at Green Bay, Fort
Crawford at Prairie du Chien, and Fort Winnebago at Portage. The
central object of interest in this little journey is the early outpost
at the Fox-Wisconsin portage.
Leaving Baraboo on Trunk Line 33, leading directly east of the city,
where open fields now greet the eye on either side, was once a treeless
tract known as Peck's Prairie. This was named for Eben Peck, an early
settler whose residence was on the present highway a short distance
west of the fair ground.
Roche Moutonnee
After passing a road which turns to the left and leads to the man
mound, a roche moutonnee, sheep shaped surface of the quartzite, may be
seen about a half-mile to the left. The surface of the outcrop was
rounded during the invasion of the glacial ice into this region.
Just before reaching the Baraboo River the road swings to the left,
approaching the talused slope of the rugged north range of the Baraboo
Bluffs. Two species of cacti grow on the summit here, also to the
west--Opuntia humifusa, the western prickly pear, and Opuntia fragilis,
the brittle opuntia.
The road runs on the verge of a dry ravine, where an Indian effigy
mound reposes on the opposite bank, near the Baraboo River. Other
mounds were to the west and an Indian ford crossed the stream here.
About 1906 an Indian skeleton was unearthed on the bank of the gully,
nearly opposite the farmstead.
Garrisonville
In the region about the ravine, Mrs. Ann Garrison, in pioneer times,
laid out a paper city, much to the regret of lot purchasers in
Philadelphia and elsewhere. The sawmill, the pottery, the hotel, and
the "salted" gold mine are but memories now.
The gap where the river escapes from the valley into the lowland to the
north, has a geological history similar to that of Devil's Lake. No
talus covers the slopes, however, the loose stones having been swept
away when the ice sheet flowed slowly through in glacial times.
An Ancient Lava Bed
At seven localities about the outer margin of the quartzite region,
igneous rocks have been found--at Alloa, near the Devil's Nose, at
Baxter's Hollow, three near Denzer and the Lower Narrows.
By far the largest area, fully described by Professor Samuel Weidman in
"The Baraboo Iron-Bearing District," is found at the Lower Narrows,
distributed over the width of more than half a mile along the north
slope, to the east and west of the gap. At the bridge the road to the
left leads to a point less than a mile distant, here the igneous rock
or rhyolite comes boldly within a few feet of the highway. By climbing
upon the ledge one stands on a surface older than the Baraboo Hills,
older than any deposit in the whole region. As lava the rhyolite
flowed, then cooled and during the upheaval of the north range was
forced upon its edge, remaining so to this day. Upon this cooled lava
the whole later geologic formation of the region rests--to be upon it
is to be upon the floor of the world.
[Illustration: JEFFERSON DAVIS]
Road Hugs the Bluff
Eastward from the bridge over the Baraboo River, the highway hugs the
bluff. A few Indian mounds may be seen less than half a mile to the
north after passing the first farm house. To the east of these mounds
the skeletons of about sixty Indians were uncovered when one was
leveled a number of years ago. The Indian corpses had been seated in a
circle and buried in one heap of earth. Evidently there had been a
battle or pestilence amongst them.
[Illustration: FORT WINNEBAGO IN 1834]
Reduced facsimile of oil painting by Ira A. Ridgeway of
Portage in 1896, based on contemporary plans and
recollections of early settlers. The view is from the
southwest. The building to the right of the gate is the
guardhouse; to the left, the armory. On the opposite side of
the square, to the left, were the officers' quarters. The
peakedroof building at the left corner was a blockhouse, and
a similar structure was in the corner diagonally opposite.
The magazine appears in the corner adjacent to the
guardhouse, and at its side to the right were soldiers'
quarters. The chapel was in the corner diagonally opposite
the magazine, but is not visible; as is the case with some
of the other smaller buildings. The log building near the
end of the bridge over the Fox river, to the right, was
Henry Merrell's sutler's store. The low structure a little
to the east was the ice cellar. A little further along was
the surgeon's headquarters and to the right the hospital. In
the distance, looking between the hospital and surgeon's
quarters, may be seen the old stone bakery; the blacksmith
shop and the carpenter shop were close by, but do not appear
in the picture. At the left of the bridge is a commissary
building; just to its rear was Jones's store, a portion is
discernible. Beyond the fort to the left (out of the above
picture) was a log theatre. Still further to the left, was
the Indian Agency building. An enormous well was in the
exact center of the stockade. It is in use at the present
time.
* * * * *
To the right of the highway are many hidden beauty spots all along the
way to the Baraboo River, especially where the streams come down from
the high land above. The most attractive of these is Fox's Glen, to the
right and just east of the rural school building facing the river.
The high ground on the right, just before crossing the bridge over the
Wisconsin River, is the site of an Indian village. The pioneers crossed
the river here on a ferry, the first bridge being built in 1857. It was
destroyed by a cyclone in 1903, and the present structure was then
erected.
Home of an Author
After entering West Cook Street, the main thoroughfare of Portage, and
reaching the third street to the right, the car should be swung one
block south to pass the home of Miss Zona Gale. The residence, 506 West
Canal Street, is southern colonial in architecture, and stands on the
bank of the winding Wisconsin, the rear lawn sloping back to the
waterway.
Scene of a Dark Deed
One block to the left and one block to the north, brings the visitor to
the intersection of West Cook and Mac Streets; here Pierre Pauquette,
the Indian trader, interpreter, and portager was killed by an
aborigine. The deed was committed, it is said, a little southwest of
the intersection of the streets.
Pauquette was one of the most picturesque figures in the early days of
Wisconsin, indissolubly identified with those who cast their lot at the
portage.
Monument to Discoverers
Crossing the canal bridge near the Wisconsin River and continuing south
several blocks, a granite monument marks the place where Jacques
Marquette and Louis Joliet, the first white men to visit this region,
crossed the portage on June 14, 1673, and floated down the Wisconsin.
Many noted persons crossed the portage in early times. Duluth and
Hennepin were here in 1680 and Nicolas Perrot, the Baron Lahontan, and
Charles Pierre Le Sueur were three famous travelers in the late
seventeenth century. An expedition to build a French fort on the upper
Mississippi, passed here in 1727; Johnathan Carver tells of his visit
in 1766; and here was the rendezvous for Indian forces during the
American Revolution. An expedition against St. Louis gathered here in
1780. Then came the much passing of troops between Fort Howard at Green
Bay and Fort Crawford at Prairie du Chien. Here in 1827 occurred the
dramatic surrender of Red Bird, bringing to a close the Winnebago War.
In 1793 Laurent Barth came to transport baggage with oxen, in 1801-2
Augustin Grignon wintered at the portage as a fur trader, and in 1810
the overland division of the Astorian expedition to the Pacific coast
went westward over this historic route.
During the war of 1812 Robert Dixon, British Indian agent, collected
his savage allies at this point; and the expedition which drove the
Americans from Prairie du Chien, passed thither in 1814. By this route
the British forces, following the treaty of Ghent, retreated in 1815.
An Early Hostelry
Carpenter's place was on the corner to the south of the monument. In a
building near the pioneer hotel, Abe Wood killed Pawnee Blanc, buried
in a mound near the Portage-end of the Wisconsin River bridge.
Continuing on Bronson Avenue to the east and after crossing the
railroad tracks, the location of the Franklin House may be seen
several rods to the right. A large elm tree with a small house back of
it marks the location of the pioneer Portage hotel where dignitaries of
the early days were entertained.
The Riverbend Place, the home of Mr. and Mrs. A. J. Stace, is the last
house before crossing the Fox River. To the rear of this house is where
Henry Merrill, the sutler of Fort Winnebago, resided.
Fort Winnebago
After crossing the stream, the location of the commissary building of
the fort will be observed a few rods to the left. Goods from boats
plying the Fox were unloaded into the building; a fragment of the wall
still remains, hidden in the weeds and grass.
The frame house to the right, somewhat modified, was the fort hospital.
The well at the farmstead at the left was in the center of Fort
Winnebago when completed in 1830. The portage was made a military post
in 1828, Major David E. Twiggs erecting the fortification. During the
Black Hawk War the outpost was useful in checking the hostile
tribesmen, it remained a garrison until 1845, and was sold in 1853, the
nineteen and fifteen-hundredths acres bringing $23.94. The old deed is
in the Portage Library.
Colonel Zachary Taylor, afterward president of the United States,
visited the fort with Captain Hugh Brady, Indian fighter, in 1836, and
Lieutenant Jefferson Davis, later president of the confederacy, came
with the military force to construct and garrison the place. Judge D.
Doty, afterward territorial governor, often was there, while General
Lewis Cass, and Captain Frederick Marryat, celebrated English novelist,
were among the many noted visitors. Miss Marcy, later the wife of
General George B. McClellan, was a child here, the daughter of a
lieutenant.
The Old Cemetery
Continuing on the central of the three roads about a quarter of a mile,
the Fort Winnebago cemetery will be found in a grove to the right. Near
the west fence is the grave of Cooper Pixley, a soldier of the
Revolution, who died in 1855, aged 86.
A little to the east is the grave of William Sylvester, a soldier of
the War of 1812, and the first mayor of Portage. He was born October
28, 1792, and died November 20, 1875. His two wives sleep beside him.
Near the center of the cemetery is the grave of Henry Carpenter, a
soldier in the Black Hawk War, and hard by are the graves of Civil War
veterans, while the body of Archie White Eagle, a Winnebago Indian
veteran of the World War, also sleeps in the enclosure.
Those who died in the fort are buried along the south fence. The boards
marking their graves burned years ago and their locations are now lost.
Some of the graves in the cemetery are those who came to the lead
region in early times and later to the portage.
Returning toward Portage, cross the canal at the eastern extremity of
the city, turn sharply to the right and follow the road on the bank of
the artificial waterway to the Agency or Waubun House, now owned by
Attorney E. S. Baker. John H. Kinzie came with his bride to the portage
in 1830 and this house was soon after erected for them. Mrs. Kinzie
brought her piano up the Fox River in a boat, mention of which is made
in her delightful Wau-Bun.
Near the Agency House Four Legs, chief of the Winnebago, was buried.
The lock where the canal joins the Fox is a short distance to the east
of the historic house, and the blacksmith shop was in the field forty
rods or more to the west.
Burial Place of Pauquette
Returning along the canal, crossing the railroad, and traversing East
Cook street near the center of the city, a turn is made to the right at
the Baptist Church. Between the church and the parsonage to the rear
stood the first French Mission between Depere and Prairie du Chien,
erected with logs by Pierre Pauquette in 1833-34. He was killed by an
Indian in 1836 and beneath the rude place of worship was buried.
According to a tablet on the parsonage, the remains of Pauquette were
exhumed in 1904. They now repose in the Catholic cemetery.