During the period of initial land exploration attempts were made to
secure information by water. The most important such episode was the
voyage, if one may call it that, made by Jose Canizares in 1775.
Canizares was the first mate of the ship, San Carlos, under command of
Juan Manuel Ayala. Ayala was commissioned to survey the entire San
Francisco Bay area, but was unable to complete the task because of
illness. He therefore delegated the interior exploration to Canizares,
who fulfilled the mission in late August and early September. The
results of the trip are embodied, first, in a series of maps, and
second, in a letter by Canizares (1775) to Ayala. (For historical
background, the work of Cutter, 1950, may be consulted.)
The maps are three in number, all versions of the same map drawn by
Canizares, and dated respectively 1775, 1776, and 1781. The first is
very poorly executed and shows little more than the outline of the Bay;
it is not reproduced here.
The second (map 2) is carefully done and gives an extensive list of
localities. The original is in the Ministry of War, Madrid, Spain. It is
an elaboration of, and a very great improvement on, a map drawn by Ayala
in 1775 which showed merely the outline of San Francisco, without
detail. Ayala's map has slight value, hence it is not shown here, but a
copy is available in the Bancroft Library, Berkeley.
Since the present map is itself reproduced from a photograph of a
photograph, the text of the legends in the boxes is very faint and
blurred. To facilitate reading, these legends have been copied, with
translations. The symbols used on the map are the Latin alphabet, using
capitals, for twenty-three items; they then continue as Greek letters,
which are difficult to decipher and do not run strictly in sequence.
Hence, for convenience, I have substituted in the legends numbers for
the Greek letters, number 1 following Z of the alphabetical series. The
use of these numbers in conjunction with the Greek letters on the map
will not be difficult. In the left-hand column is the Spanish text; in
the right-hand column, a literal translation. No attempt is made to
correlate the names given by Canizares with those applied at the present
time.
The third map (map 3) copies the second, is carefully done, and gives
essentially the same information, but varies in minor points. Canizares
remained in San Blas for several years after his visit to San Francisco.
During this period his 1776 map was apparently redrawn by Manuel
Villavicencio, in 1781, presumably under the supervision of Canizares
himself. Whether it is more accurate than the 1776 map is open to
question. Small and capital letters are used for the localities on the
map and in the legends.
The letter describing the survey of the Bay was written by Canizares and
addressed to "Senor Capitan," obviously Ayala. It was dated September 7,
1775, "en este nuebo Puerto de S. Fran^{co} al abrigo de la Isla de
Los Angeles." This document, which is an account of the first boat
trip throughout San Francisco Bay, has never, to my knowledge, been
published. Its intrinsic interest, consequently, as well as its bearing
upon primitive geography and ethnography, warrants its presentation.
A translation follows herewith. Various matters requiring comment are
discussed immediately subsequent to the translation.
_Canizares' Report_
On the four occasions when I went out to explore this port and
survey its northeastern and north-northeastern portion I
discovered what is shown on the map and is set forth here. To
the north-northeast of the Island of Los Angeles, at a distance
of one mile, there is a bay which runs north-northwest to
south-southeast. The distance across between the points which
form it is about two leagues and its length two and one-half. In
its northwestern part there are three little islets, forming
with the coast a narrow channel, which is shut off at its
southwestern mouth by a shoal. Around all the margin of the bay
are folded hills, with very few groves of trees and these which
there are consist in part of laurel and live-oak; there may be
seen in the interior to the west-northwest a forest of trees,
which from afar seem to be pines. In the middle of this sound
there is situated a great high cliff with some submerged rocks
on the northeast side. As the map shows its depth is sufficient
for anchorage; it no doubt is a roadstead for such vessels as
have good cables and anchors, for much trouble would be caused
by the current which flows here and which would not be less than
four knots.
To the north-northeast of the said bay is a gap, the width of
which might be two miles, in which are four white islands of
small size, the northernmost forming with those on the southern
shore a channel of 9 fathoms. These islands form the separation
from another bay more capacious than the preceding, the diameter
of which might be about eight leagues and the form of which is a
perfect isosceles triangle. The above mentioned gap separates
into two channels. The first, on the southwest shore, turns to
the northwest a long mile distant, eventually disappearing in
two big inlets, which are situated on the same shore, four
leagues away from the opening which communicates with the first
bay. If one goes a league and a half from the northwestern end
of the inlet running farthest to the north, he rounds a point
and discovers toward the west-northwest a spacious sound. I did
not explore this because the channel which communicates with it
is so restricted and narrow, there being scarcely three _codos_
of water. From here a low island, level with the surface of the
water, runs toward the east-northeast, ending at a point where
the mountains divide. The second channel, which is quite large
and capable of being sounded, immediately trends northeast, one
quarter east, until it reaches the dividing point in the
mountains where it enters a canyon, following the direction
mentioned.
All this bay, which is called the round [bay]--although it is
not such--is bordered by rough mountains without trees except
two groves in the coves which are situated to the southwest. All
the rest of it is arid, hilly and of melancholy aspect. Aside
from these channels, in no part of the bay does its depth reach
five _codos_; at low tide there are two and a half, and some
areas are dry. It is not difficult to enter, but it will be
difficult to get out of, for we found that the prevailing winds
are from the southwest. Having examined its shores exhaustively,
I found no fresh water, nor even indication that there had been
any in former times.
Starting at the gorge which is at the northeastern end, the land
forms a strait a mile and a half wide, clear, and capable of
being sounded. At the eastern part of the entrance there is
located a rancheria whose population might exceed 400 souls. I
traded with these people, not to buy anything from them, but to
present them with the beads which your Excellency has given me
for this purpose, together with some of my used clothing.
Contact with them was very useful to me and the crew on account
of the many gifts they made us of very choice fish (among them
salmon), seeds, and ground meal. After visiting them on four
occasions I found them as they were the first time, and observed
in them an urbane courtesy, and what is more, much modesty and
neatness among the women. They tend to beg for nothing except
for that which one gives them freely; without pressing to the
limit of impertinence, like many others whom I have seen in this
conquered territory. This rancheria has some rafts, better
described as canoes, of tule rushes so carefully wrought and
woven that it caused me admiration of their handiwork. In these
they embark four men to go fishing, each one rowing with a
double-ended oar. Using the latter they travel with such
dexterity, as I found out, that they go faster than the launch.
These were the first and the last Indians in this part of the
north with whom I had communication.
Following the above mentioned channel, at a distance of a league
from its mouth, the coast forms a cove so spacious, navigable,
well provided with firewood and watering places, and protected
from all winds that I judge it to be one of the best interior
ports which our sovereign possesses, large enough to anchor a
fleet of warships. I gave it the name of Port of the Assumption
[Puerto de la Asumpta] on account of having reconnoitred it on
the day of this festivity. To the southeast of this port the
passage continues until it merges with the channel of the
rancheria. Then it continues three leagues in an
east-northeasterly direction. At the end of this distance it
enters another bay with a depth of 13 fathoms, the latter
diminishing until it reaches four. Into this bay flow several
rivers, as is demonstrated by the fact that, leaving the salt
water, one is able to drink fresh water from where the rivers
come as if into a lake. One river comes from the east-northeast
(this is the largest, the width of which will be about 250
varas), and the other, which is formed from quite small arms,
flows from the northeast through a very low-lying region among
swamps and sand dunes. Its depth does not reach two fathoms.
These rivers have at their mouths some sand bars (as the
commotion demonstrated to me) at a depth of half a fathom. The
reason why I do not consider them navigable is principally that
the second time I went to explore them I penetrated into the
interior and ran aground both in the rivers and on the sand
bars. In the bay into which these rivers discharge is another
port more extensive than that of la Asumpta in which it is
possible to moor any vessel whatever, but it would be difficult
to get wood because of the remoteness of its shores. From the
rancheria at the entrance which communicates with them, to the
rivers themselves, all the coast of the east is covered with
trees and all that on the west is arid, dry, full of locusts,
and incapable of ever being populated.
The foregoing is what I discovered in this part of the north,
and proceeding from the above-mentioned Island of Los Angeles
the reconnoissance of the estuary to the southeast I describe as
follows.
To the east of this island at a distance of two leagues there is
another, rough, craggy, and of no value, which divides the mouth
of the bay into two passages through which the sea penetrates
about twelve leagues. The width in places is one, two and three
leagues. The channel of this sound does not exceed four fathoms.
Its width is adequate but on departing from it the distance of a
pistol shot the depth does not reach two fathoms. The tip of
this sound, which faces the east, forms, with a horseshoe-shaped
headland, a pocket which, at low tide, is mostly dry. In this
inlet are some logs to which are fastened black feathers,
bunches of reeds and snail shells, which gave me the idea that
they are fishing floats, since they are in the middle of the
water. Beyond three leagues from the entrance of this estuary I
estimate that nowhere is it possible to anchor, due to the lack
of shelter. However, if such is the case, position ought to be
maintained by force of cables because the same current is found
here as in the northern part of the bay.
On the northeastern shore this bay is surrounded by high ranges
of hills. At the mouth there is a luxuriant forest of live oak
and another even larger at the upper end, together with a heavy
growth of redwood. On the southwestern shore is a small estuary
navigable only by small boats, and on the same shore two inlets
in which anchorage is possible. Another, to the east, has a
rancheria of Indians like those at Monterey. This coast appears
to have locations very suitable for missions, although I
examined them only from a distance.
All that is set forth in this account is what I have observed,
witnessed, measured, and sounded during these days when, on
orders from your Excellency, I went out to explore the interior
of this port of San Francisco. For the record I am composing
this account in this new port of San Francisco under the shelter
of the Island of Los Angeles, today September 7, 1755.
It is clear that Canizares, starting from what is now called Angel
Island, crossed the Bay south of Point Richmond and proceeded northward
between Point San Pablo and Point San Pedro into San Pablo Bay (Bahia de
Guadelupe or Redonda). He explored Petaluma Creek (Estero de Nuestra
Senora de la Merced) and the sloughs near Mare Island. Except for the
southwest he found this bay surrounded by arid, treeless hills, thus
agreeing with the opinion of the explorers by land. Just before entering
Carquinez Strait, he saw a large rancheria. Although this village is not
shown on the 1776 map it appears on the 1781 map at the southwest side
of the western mouth of the strait. It is no doubt the same site
described by Font.
One league, or perhaps three miles, from the entrance Canizares
encountered what he regarded as a spacious inlet or cove. Wagner (1937)
and Cutter (1950) both state that this was Southampton Bay, opposite
Port Costa (Puerto de la Asumpta). Cutter (p. 13) also claims that it
has been filled with mud since 1775 and largely obliterated, but gives
no evidence in support of the opinion. Canizares describes Army Point,
near Benicia (Puerto de los Evangelistas on the maps), and then gives an
account of Suisun Bay which he says contained numerous islands filled
with tules. Toward the upper end of these, on the maps, is shown fresh
water. After attempting to penetrate the rivers, and running aground on
sand bars, Canizares returned to Angel Island before embarking for a
reconnaissance of the southern area of the Bay. His description of the
lower delta region is too confusing to be of value. He evidently did not
fully understand the relations of the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers
at their junction.
Cutter (1950, p. 113) states, regarding vegetation, that Canizares found
the north shore of the Bay covered with trees and the south shore arid
and dry. Canizares says the vegetated shore was "east" and the arid
shore was "west." Both maps depict trees on both shores, but with the
heavier concentration on the south side. The 1781 map uses for "Bosques
de buenas Maderas" the symbol "Q." The latter appears at the southeast
end of San Francisco Bay, in the vicinity of Oakland and Alameda, on the
south side of the rivers at the head of Suisun Bay, and on the north
side, well above Suisun Bay. Small groups of trees appear on both maps
at each entrance of Carquinez Strait, in the vicinity of Pinole and of
Martinez. There is no real evidence that there were trees on the north
side of Carquinez Strait.
Although the data in the letter are scanty, the distribution of Indian
population indicated by Crespi and Font is substantially confirmed. The
text of the letter mentions only one rancheria, the one at or near
Pinole or Selby, to which Canizares (on the strength of four visits)
ascribes a population of 400. This is the exact value given by Font, and
seems to constitute very reliable evidence. Other villages are shown on
the 1776 map, under the symbol "q." as "Rancherias de Indios Amigos,"
one on the north side of Southampton Bay, one near Martinez, one
apparently near Bay Point (or Port Chicago), and one somewhere near
Pittsburg. The same number of symbols (here "O") is shown on the 1781
map, but those on the south side of the strait are displaced several
miles to the west. We can be reasonably sure therefore that Canizares
found four rancherias, including the one described in the letter, three
on the south shore, one on the north. In view of the vague placement on
the maps it is scarcely worth while to insist upon the precise location.
As far as population is concerned, what information can be derived from
Canizares lends support to the conclusions based upon Crespi and Font.