the "homely order," and one may search the county in vain for an
oft-recurring and distinctive feature, such as the graceful spires of
Northamptonshire, or the splendid Perpendicular towers, which
distinguish so many of the churches of Somerset. In the country of
Benedict Biscop and the Venerable Bede it is natural that we should look
for other matters of interest than striking architecture, and
undoubtedly many of the churches carry evidence of a high antiquity,
though only perhaps a fragment of dog-tooth moulding breaking through
lath and plaster restoration of the eighteenth century.
Two churches, Jarrow and Monkwearmouth, are no less interesting for the
Saxon remains which they contain than for their association with the
early Christian Fathers of the North. Both these churches date from the
latter part of the seventh century. At the time of their erection
Theodore of Tarsus, to whom the division of the country into parishes is
generally attributed, was Archbishop of Canterbury; but it would not at
this early date be correct to describe them as parish churches, for it
was not until the decay of the brotherhoods to which they were attached
that they ceased to be other than the chapels of their respective
monasteries.
In another part of this volume full justice has been done to these
early churches, but some reference must be made here to the church of
Escomb, in the west of the county. It is perhaps of an equally early
date and a remarkably perfect example of a church of the period. Very
little is known of its early history, but after the Dissolution it was
regarded as a chapel-of-ease to St. Andrew’s, Auckland. In 1879 it had
fallen into disuse, a new church having been built at some distance. But
upon the "re-discovery" of the nature of the old building, in that year,
funds were at once raised for its repair.
The church consists of a square chancel, a nave, and a porch as a later
addition. The church has undoubtedly been built with stones from the
Roman camp of Binchester, many of which show the diamond broaching.
Professor Baldwin Brown is of the opinion that the chancel arch, which
is the most striking feature of the interior, was removed bodily from
the camp and set up in pre-Conquest times in its present position.
On the south side of the chancel there are two original windows, with
semicircular heads, cut out of single blocks, and jambs battering
inwards. There are two original windows on the north side with square
heads. The sills of these windows are thirteen feet from the floor
level, and another window in the west end is placed still higher. At
later dates the walls have been pierced with other windows, two in the
south wall of the nave, one in the west gable, one in the east end, and
one in the south wall of the chancel. Between the two original windows
on the south is a "Saxon" sundial. The original entrances were in the
north and south walls of the nave, and there is a later doorway in the
chancel. A fragment of an early cross is preserved in the church.
Contemporary with these churches there existed at Hartlepool a monastic
house said by Bede to have been founded by Heiu, the first Northumbrian
nun, and subsequently extended by St. Hilda, before her transition to
Whitby in 657.
Although continued after this date, its history during the period of the
Danish invasion is lost. The present Church of St. Hilda is mentioned in
the confirmatory charter to Guisborough Priory of Bishop Pudsey in 1195,
and in those of several of his successors, and was most likely included
in the original grant with the churches of Hart and Stranton, of which
it was a dependent chapel. In 1308 Bishop Bek, as a reward for the
continual devotion, charity, and hospitality of the Prior and convent of
Guisborough, granted them the indulgence, that in the church of Hart and
chapel of Hartlepool, service should, after that date, be perpetually
performed by a canon of Guisborough.
Statutes for the government of the church were drawn up by the
Corporation of Hartlepool in 1599, and appear in the Corporation
records, whence the following extract:
"Ytt ys ordeyned, that whosoever of this town dothe shott att or
within the churche or churche steple of thys town, with gun,
crosbowe, or anie other shott for the kyllinge of any dove, pigeon,
or anie other foule, shall paye, for every suche offence, to the
use of the town. 12.d."
In 1600 the number of "pues or stalls" was thirty-three.
The first church, though much restored, is the one which still remains,
and the finest of the parish churches in the North. Standing on high
ground, the impressive landmark formed by its massive tower and
crocketed pinnacles, over many miles of land and water, has been
referred to with admiration by every historian of the county.
"The church of Hartlepool differs from most ancient churches in
being throughout one design, carried out at one time.... It tells,
as authentically as any written document could, of the rapid growth
and prosperity which preceded its erection. In the enthusiasm to
which success gives birth, the merchants of Hartlepool said: ‘We
will build a church.’ From the first they contemplated a splendid
design, and this they executed worthily."--BOYLE.
The church stands to the north-west of the site of St. Hilda’s
Foundation. Its tower is its most striking characteristic. At an early
date the tower must have shown signs of weakness, and the enormous
buttresses which increase its picturesqueness so much were added. These
additions are generally ascribed to the year 1230, and the entrance
arch, with a very beautiful but much decayed chevron moulding, cut
through the south buttress of the west side, is of the same date. The
tower is of three stages, and the south-west corner forms a turret,
through which a staircase leads to the roof. The clerestory windows have
formerly been of three lights each, now built into one, and are very
fine. The original capitals remain, but all the shafts have gone.
The west, or main entrance, has been built up. The nave is supported by
five clustered pillars on each side, with pointed arches. In the wall of
the south aisle is a piscina. The greater part of the chancel is modern.
Several chantries were attached to the church before the dissolution of
the monasteries, but the monumental remains are few.
In the churchyard is a large tomb, which was formerly enclosed within
the walls of the ancient chancel, before the latter was taken down. It
is generally ascribed to the De Bruses, and the armorial shields on the
sides, each charged with a lion rampant, confirm the suggestion.
Durham possesses another very good example of Early English architecture
in the parish church of Darlington, dedicated to St. Cuthbert. It
consists of a chancel, north and south transepts, a nave with aisles,
and a central tower crowned by a spire. That it stands on a site of
great antiquity is proved by the discovery, in 1866, during restoration,
of fragments of three pre-Conquest crosses, which are now preserved in
the church. In the charter of Styr, son of Ulf, which is included in a
record called by Symeon, the "Ancient Chartulary of the Church," there
is given to St. Cuthbert "the vill which is called Dearthingtun, with
sac and soc," and Symeon again mentions Darlington as one of the places
to which the secularized monks of Durham were removed in 1083 by
William de St. Carileph. On the authority of Geoffry de Coldingham, the
erection of the church has been ascribed to Bishop Pudsey, and the date
to 1190-95.
The principal entrance is in the west front, set in a richly moulded
arch, with a trefoil-headed niche above. In the second stage of the
front is an arcade of five arches, and the third stage has three arches,
all with dividing shafts. The arches in the second stage are pierced
alternately with lancet lights. The walls of the aisle were greatly
altered about the middle of the fourteenth century, and all the
square-headed windows belong to this period, no features dating from the
original erection of the church remaining except the doorways. The north
doorway has been greatly restored, and the south doorway was originally
covered by a porch; it has a niche above. The clerestory has an arcade
of twelve arches pierced with four lancet windows on each side. Both
transepts and the chancel are of two stages, divided by string courses;
but the south transept is more enriched than the north, both internally
and externally. Buttresses divide the walls of the chancel into three
bays, and the walls and ends of the transepts are similarly divided into
two bays each. Those buttresses at the junctions of the transepts and
the chancel, owing to their great proportion, have much the appearance
of corner turrets. The spire and the higher stage of the tower are of
the same date as the walls of the aisles. Longstaffe says of the spire:
"On July 17, 1750, this beautiful spire, considered the highest and
finest in the North of England, was rent.... The storm occasioned
fifteen yards of the spire to be taken down and rebuilt in 1752....
Unfortunately the mason omitted the moulding at the angles of the new
part."
Incidentally it should be noted that Durham is one of the counties in
which spires are comparatively rare.
The tower is supported by four arches on clustered shafts, and the nave
is divided from its aisle by four arches on each side. The east wall of
the chancel is modern. Three sedilia of the Decorated period occupy the
usual position in the chancel. In one of the windows on the east side of
the south transept occurs the only instance of the dog-tooth ornament in
the interior of the church, and there is a piscina in both of the side
walls of the same transept.
Darlington is the only church in the county which retains a rood-loft.
On the south of the chancel is the vestry, which has been greatly
modernized. The only monumental effigy is that of an unknown lady with a
book in her hand. It dates from the early thirteenth century, and is
placed at the west end of the nave.
After the two churches last mentioned, the church at Sedgefield,
dedicated to St. Edmund the Bishop, but formerly dedicated to the
Virgin, is probably the finest in the county. The nave and chancel date
from the Early English period. The tower is very fine, of Perpendicular
date and of three stages, crowned by battlemented parapets and small
spirelets standing on angle buttresses. The Rev. J. F. Hodgson is of the
opinion that it was intended to crown the tower with an open lantern, as
at St. Nicholas’ Cathedral, Newcastle.
There are two transepts; the south contains the chapel of St. Thomas,
and in its east wall are two piscinas, one of which is trefoil-headed;
and in the south wall are two pointed recesses occupied by much
mutilated male and female effigies, the latter dating from the later
fourteenth century. The north transept contains the Chapel of St.
Katherine, and is now known as the Hardwick porch. Two of its ancient
windows still remain, and fix its date as 1328. The east window is
filled with Late Decorated tracery. The nave is divided from the aisles
by three pointed arches, supported by clustered pillars on moulded
bases. The capitals are richly carved and very interesting.
The font is octagonal and of Frosterley marble, dating from the end of
the fifteenth century, and charged on each side with armorial shields,
most likely carved in the seventeenth century. The stall work of the
chancel is ascribed to the latter part of the seventeenth century, and
the rich chancel screen to a slightly earlier date.
On the north side of the chancel is the grave cover of Andrew de
Stanley, first master of Greatham Hospital.
Two interesting brasses of skeletons in shrouds are preserved in the
vestry, and were originally inlaid in one slab. Another small brass is
in the south transept. It is considered to be one of the earliest in
England, and represents a lady in loose robe with tight sleeves and
wimple and hood. There is another brass to the memory of William Hoton,
engraved with a helmet and crest of three trefoils.
Of the five bells, one is of pre-Reformation date, bearing the
inscription "✠ TRINITATE SACRA FIAT HEC CAMPANA BEATA," and the arms of
Rhodes and Thornton.
The church at Staindrop, dedicated to St. Mary the Virgin, was much
mutilated by restorations in 1849, but its sepulchral monuments to
members of the Neville family are unrivalled.
Parts of the walls of the nave are of pre-Reformation date, and two of
the original windows still remain. The north and south aisles were added
to the original structure in the twelfth century, when the nave walls
were pierced by three arches on each side, supported on cylindrical
pillars, with capitals carved in different foliage designs. During the
following century the plan of the church was altered, and an additional
bay added to the west end of the nave, north and south transepts thrown
out, and the tower erected. The tower was of three stages, probably
crowned by a wooden spire, taken down in 1408, when a fourth stage was
added. Being built on the original corbel-tables, and overhanging the
substructure, it gives the whole a very heavy appearance. About the
same time the original high-pitched roofs were lowered to the almost
flat roofs which now exist, and the clerestory of the nave built. Before
the date of the latter alterations extensive changes had been made in
the church during the fourteenth century, when Ralph, Lord Neville,
under licence of the Prior and convent of Durham, endowed three
chantries. The original south aisle and transept were removed, and the
present south aisle, which is much wider than the nave, erected. At the
south-east angle of the aisle a small porch or vestry projects, which
was intended for the use of the priests officiating in the chantries.
Shortly after these alterations, the symmetry of the church being
destroyed, a new north aisle and transept, of similar dimensions, but
much inferior work, were erected. The ancient vestry opening from the
chancel, with _domus inclusa_ above, is very interesting.
Staindrop is the only church in the county in which the pre-Reformation
chancel screen remains, but the rood-loft which surmounted it has been
destroyed. The font is octagonal, and of Teesdale marble, decorated with
armorial bearings, and may date from the latter part of the fourteenth
century.
The first of the effigies before referred to is that of a lady, and lies
in a recess in the south aisle. It is ascribed to Isabel de Neville,
wife of Robert FitzMeldred, Lord of Raby. "The costume is an excellent
example of the dress of a gentlewoman of Western Europe in the second
half of the thirteenth century and beginning of the fourteenth."
Sepulchral effigies of females of this early date are extremely rare.
The general resemblance of this effigy to that of Aveline, Countess of
Lancaster, in Westminster Abbey, who died in 1269, is very striking.
The second effigy in point of date is attributed to Euphemia, mother of
Ralph, Lord Neville, founder of the chantries and builder of the south
aisle, in which it lies in an enriched recess. The third, a female
effigy, is also in the same aisle, and though no doubt representing one
of the Neville family, its exact identity is a matter of some
controversy. It dates from the fourteenth century, and the remaining
effigy in the aisle--that of a boy--is of the same date.
A remarkably fine altar-tomb, with effigies of Ralph Neville, first Earl
of Westmorland, and his wives--Margaret, daughter of Hugh, Earl of
Stafford, and Joan, daughter of John of Gaunt--has been described as the
most splendid in the North of England.
The Earl is dressed in a rich suit of full armour, with collar of SS.,
and the ladies in kirtles, with jewelled girdles and sideless surcoats
and mantles. Their arms have been destroyed. The Earl died in 1426.
The remaining monument is to the memory of Henry Neville, fifth Earl of
Westmorland, who died in 1564, and his two first wives--Anne, daughter
of Thomas Manners, Earl of Rutland, and Jane, daughter of Sir Richard
Cholmondeley.
The monument is of oak, and ornamented with effigies of the Earl’s
children and armorial bearings. The Earl is dressed in armour, and an
inscription states that the tomb was made in the year 1560.
In addition to the churches already mentioned, the south and south-east
districts of the county are rich in churches, worthy, if space availed,
of more than passing notice.
At Barnard Castle the church dedicated to St. Mary the Virgin carries
evidence that it was in early times a large and important edifice, and
in the twelfth century consisted of chancel and nave, with north and
south aisles. Rebuilding and structural alterations were carried out
from time to time until the middle of the fifteenth century, when both
transepts were rebuilt. The vestry is probably of the same date, and the
chancel arch, which is very fine, slightly earlier. The tower is modern,
and replaced a fifteenth-century structure. The floor of the chancel is
much higher than that of the nave, and evidence of a similar difference
in levels is found at Lanchester Church. Two arched recesses, one of
which contains an effigy of a priest, are in the north wall of the north
transept, and a mutilated piscina is in the south wall of the same
transept. In this church there were four chantry chapels dedicated
respectively to St. Catherine, St. Helen, St. Margaret, and the Trinity,
and referred to in old records, but their exact position cannot now be
ascertained.
The church at Winston has several sepulchral brasses, but, with the
exception of the walls of the chancel, which contain two remarkable
single-light windows, and the arcade and north wall of the nave, is
modern.
Nearer to Darlington is the Church of St. Andrew at Haughton-le-Skerne.
The whole of the edifice is of one period, and dates from the second
quarter of the twelfth century. Its most striking feature is a massive
tower, surmounted by a battlemented turret of later date. The richly
carved woodwork of Restoration date is interesting. In the east wall of
the nave is a monumental brass, and a stone slab in the floor of the
tower commemorates the death of Elizabeth Naunton, Prioress of Neasham,
1488-89.
The only medieval pulpit in the county is in the Church of St. Michael
at Heighington. It is of oak, and carved with the linen pattern design
and flowing tracery, with an inscription on the cornice.
The church dates from the twelfth century, and considerable remains of
that date still exist.
At Aycliffe, the Church of St. Andrew is substantially a building of
Norman date. It now consists of a chancel, nave with north and south
aisles, south porch, and western tower, the latter and the south aisle
dating from the beginning of the thirteenth century. Remains of several
pre-Conquest crosses are in the church and churchyard.
Gainford Church, dedicated to St. Mary the Virgin, is all of one period,
and with a few exceptions dates from the middle of the thirteenth
century. It contains several interesting brasses. The same may be said
of the Church of St. Edwin at Coniscliffe, which has a very interesting
carved slab above the south door.
The Church of All Saints at Hurworth contains several effigies, but was
almost entirely rebuilt in 1870. The Church of St. Mary at Egglescliffe
has portions of Early Norman date, but the chancel dates from the later
Perpendicular period, and has a fine east window of five lights. On the
south side of the nave is a fourteenth-century chapel, with a sepulchral
effigy of a man in rich armour in a niche in the outer wall.
St. Cuthbert at Redmarshall is a modest structure, but contains two
interesting alabaster effigies of Thomas de Langton and Sybil, his wife,
placed in a fifteenth-century chantry chapel on the south side of the
nave.
Both Norton and Billingham contain churches of great interest. The
former has portions of pre-Conquest date, and was one of the churches to
which William de St. Carileph removed the monks of Durham in 1083. The
church, dedicated to St. Mary the Virgin, contains a nave and side
aisles, chancel, north and south porches, and central tower. The latter
originally rose no higher than the ridges of the main roofs, and formed
a chamber, the floor of which has been removed. Beneath the tower is a
very fine effigy of a knight in chain armour, surmounted by a crocketed
canopy. The chancel was rebuilt in the thirteenth century, and the upper
stage of the tower is probably of the same period.
At Billingham the church is dedicated to St. Cuthbert. The tower is of
pre-Conquest date, and has certain points of resemblance to the higher
stage of that at St. Peter’s, Monkwearmouth. Several fragments of
pre-Conquest crosses are built into the south wall of the tower, and the
church has three memorial brasses.
In Durham City, St. Oswald’s, the parish church of Elvet, has a
well-recorded history, and was the subject of an amusing dispute between
the Bishop Philip de Pictavia and the Prior and monks of Durham, arising
from a charter
[Illustration: NORTON CHURCH.]
of Henry II. confirming to the latter "Elvet, with the church of the
same town."
On the accession of Philip--the last vicar, Richard de Coldingham,
having recently died--
"Four of the monks from St. Cuthbert’s held possession of the
church, and lived constantly in it.
"The Bishop ... issued a command that the monks should quit the
church. This they refused to do; whereupon the Bishop employed as
many as thirty watchmen, who guarded all the doors and windows, so
that no food should reach the monks in the church. After two or
three days, two of the monks could endure the fast no longer, and
abandoned their charge. Their example was shortly followed by the
others.... Four days were occupied by negotiations, at the end of
which the Bishop confirmed the possession of the church to them
‘for their own proper uses.’"--BOYLE.
The church is of various periods, and has a very good clerestory with a
fine open-work parapet, and a tower of more than ordinary interest, with
a stone staircase in the thickness of the wall, roofed with thirteenth
and fourteenth century grave-covers.
St. Margaret’s and St. Giles’s are two city churches of interest. Both
have several pre-Reformation bells, and of the latter--
"an interesting fact in the history of this church is that St.
Godric, during the period he resided in Durham, was an attendant at
its services, and at length became doorkeeper and
bellringer."--BOYLE.
Pittington Church, dedicated to St. Lawrence, is one of the most
interesting churches in the central district of the county. Portions of
the western bays of the nave are of Norman date. In the twelfth century
great structural alterations were made to the original church, which had
consisted of a nave and chancel only. The tower belongs to this period,
and the wonderful north arcade pierced through the original north wall
of the nave. The arcading of the wall forms four bays, and a fifth was
built as an elongation to the east, the original chancel being taken
down and rebuilt. The pillars are alternately cylindrical, ornamented
with spiral bands, and octagonal with flutings. The arches are of two
orders, ornamented towards the nave with chevron mouldings, and resting
on octagonal cushioned capitals. During the thirteenth century the
church was enlarged by a south aisle being built. The tower arch is also
of this period. The date of the clerestory is uncertain. In 1846 the
chancel was taken down, and the south aisle entirely, and north aisle
partly, rebuilt, and the nave again lengthened. In the splays of an
early window in the north wall of the nave are remains of two wall
paintings.
"They are undoubtedly portions of a complete series of paintings
occupying the whole interior of the first Norman church.... They
represent two incidents in the life of St. Cuthbert--viz., his
consecration by Archbishop Theodore, and his vision at the table of
the Abbess Ælfleda...."--FOWLER.
There is an interesting grave-cover in the floor beneath the tower,
bearing an inscription to the memory of Christian the Mason, a
contemporary of Bishop Pudsey. Also an effigy attributed to the family
of Fitz-Marmaduke, Lords of Horden, and several interesting monumental
stones.
All the bells, three in number, are of pre-Reformation date.