CHAPTER XVI.

Spanish Robbers--A Robber Adventure--Guardias Civiles--Exaggerated

Accounts--Cross of the Murdered--Idle Robber Tales--French

Bandittiphobia--Robber History--Guerrilleros--Smugglers--Jose

Maria--Robbers of the First Class--The Ratero--Miguelites--Escorts

and Escopeteros--Passes, Protections, and Talismans--Execution of a

Robber.

An _olla_ without bacon would scarcely be less insipid than a volume on

Spain without banditti; the stimulant is not less necessary for the

established taste of the home-market, than brandy is for pale sherries

neat as imported. In the mean time, while the timid hesitate to put

their heads into this supposed den of thieves as much as into a house

that is haunted, those who are not scared by shadows, and do not share

in the fears of cockney critics and delicate writers in satin-paper

albums, but adventure boldly into the hornet’s nest, come back in a firm

belief of the non-existence of the robber genus. In Spain, that _pays de

l’imprévu_, this unexpected absence of personages who render roads

uncomfortable, is one of the many and not disagreeable surprises, which

await those who prefer to judge of a country by going there themselves,

rather than to put implicit faith in the foregone conclusions and

stereotyped prejudices of those who have not, although they do sit in

judgment on those who have, and decide “without a view.” This very

summer, some dozen and more friends of ours have made tours in various

parts of the Peninsula, driving and riding unarmed and unescorted

through localities of former suspicion, without having the good luck of

meeting even with the ghost of a departed robber; in truth and fact, we

cannot but remember that such things as monks and banditti were,

although they must be spoken of rather in the past than in the present

tense.

[Sidenote: A ROBBER ADVENTURE.]

The actual security of the Spanish highways is due to the _Moderados_,

as the French party and imitators of the _juste milieu_ are called, and

at the head of whom may be placed _Señor Martinez de la Rosa_. He,

indeed, is a moderate in poetry as well as politics, and a rare specimen

of that sublime of mediocrity which, according to Horace, neither men,

gods, nor booksellers can tolerate; his reputation as an author and

statesman--alas! poor Cervantes and Cisneros--proves too truly the

present effeteness of Spain. Her pen and her sword are blunted, her

laurels are sear, and her womb is barren; but, among the blind, he who

has one eye is king.

This dramatist, in the May of 1833, was summoned from his exile at

Granada to Madrid by the suspicious Calomarde. The mail in which he

travelled was stopped by robbers about ten o’clock of a wet night near

Almuradiel;--the _guard_, at the first notice, throwing himself on his

belly, with his face in the mud, in imitation of the postilions, who pay

great respect to the gentlemen of the road. The passengers consisted of

himself, a German artist, and an English friend of ours now in London,

and who, having given up his well-garnished purse at once with great

good-humour, was most courteously treated by the well-satisfied

recipients: not so the Deutscher, on whom they were about to do personal

violence in revenge for a scanty scrip, had not his profession been

explained by our friend, by whose interference he was let off.

Meanwhile, the _Don_ was hiding his watch in the carriage lining, which

he cut open, and was concealing his few dollars, the existence of which

when questioned he stoutly denied. They, however, re-appeared under

threats of the bastinado, which were all but inflicted. The passengers

were then permitted to depart in peace, the leader of their spoilers

having first shaken hands with our informant, and wished him a pleasant

journey: “May your grace go with God and without novelty;” adding, “You

are a _caballero_, a gentleman, as all the English are; the German is a

_pobrecito_, a poor devil; the Spaniard is an _embustero_, a regular

swindler.” This latter gentleman, thus hardly delineated by his Lavater

countryman, has since more than gotten back his cash, having risen to be

prime minister to Christina, and humble and devoted servant of

Louis-Philippe, _cosas de España_.

[Sidenote: GUARDIAS CIVILES.]

Possibly this little incident may have facilitated the introduction of

the mounted guards, who are now stationed in towns, and by whom the

roads are regularly patrolled; they are called _guardias civiles_, and

have replaced the ancient “brotherhood” of Ferdinand and Isabella. As

they have been dressed and modelled after the fashion of the

transpyrenean gendarmerie, the Spaniards, who never lose a chance of a

happy nickname, or of a fling at the things of their neighbour, whom

they do not love, term them, either _Polizontes_ or _Polizones_, words

with which they have enriched their phraseology, and that represent the

French _polissons_, scoundrels, or they call them _Hijos de

Luis-Philipe_, “sons of Louis-Philippe;” for they are ill-bred enough,

in spite of the Montpensier marriage, and the Nelsonic achievements of

Monsieur de Joinville, to consider the words as synonymes.

The number of these rogues, French king’s sons, civil guards, call them

as you will, exceeds five thousand. During the recent Machiavelianisms

of their putative father, they have been quite as much employed in the

towns as on the highway, and for political purposes rather than those of

pure police, having been used to keep down the expression of indignant

public opinion, and, instead of catching thieves, in upholding those

first-rate criminals, foreign and domestic, who are now robbing poor

Spain of her gold and liberties; but so it has always been. Indeed, when

we first arrived in the Peninsula, and naturally made enquiries about

banditti, according to all sensible Spaniards, it was not on the road

that they were most likely to be found, but in the confessional boxes,

the lawyers’ offices, and still more in the _bureaux_ of government; and

even in England some think that purses are exposed to more danger in

Chancery Lane and Stone Buildings, than in the worst cross-road, or the

most rocky mountain pass in the Peninsula.

[Sidenote: THE MURDERED MAN’S CROSS.]

It will be long, however, before this “great fact” is believed within

the sound of Bow-bells, where many of those who provide the reading

public with correct information, dislike having to eat their own words,

and to have their settled opinions shaken or contradicted. Nor is it

pleasant at a certain time of life to go again to school, as one does

when studying Niebuhr’s Roman History, and then to find that the

alphabet must be re-begun, since all that was thought to be right is in

fact wrong. Distant Spain is ever looked at through a telescope which

either magnifies richness and goodness, from which half at least must be

deducted according to the proverb, _de los dineros y bondad, se ha de

quitar la mitad_, or darkens its dangers and difficulties through a

discoloured medium. A bad name given to a dog or country is very

adhesive; and the many will repeat each other in cuckoo-note. “Il y a

des choses,” says Montesquieu, “que tout le monde dit, parcequ’elles ont

été dites une fois;” thus one silly sheep makes many, who will follow

their leader; _ovejas y bobas, donde va una, van todas_. So in the end

error becomes stamped with current authority, and is received, until the

false, imaginary picture is alone esteemed, and the true, original

portrait scouted as a cheat.

[Sidenote: EXAGGERATED ROBBER NOTIONS.]

It has so long and annually been considered permissible, when writing

about romantic Spain, to take leave of common sense, to ascend on

stilts, and converse in the Cambyses vein, that those who descend to

humble prose, and confine themselves to commonplace matter-of-fact, are

considered not only to be inæsthetic, unpoetical, and unimaginative, but

deficient in truth and power of observation. The genius of the land,

when speaking of itself and its things, is prone to say the thing which

is not; and it must be admitted that the locality lends itself often and

readily to misconceptions. The leagues and leagues of lonely hills and

wastes, over which beasts of prey roam, and above which vultures sulkily

rising part the light air with heavy wing, are easily peopled, by those

who are in a prepared train of mind, with equally rapacious bipeds of

Plato’s unfeathered species. Rocky passes, contrived as it were on

purpose for ambuscades, tangled glens overrun with underwood, in spite

of the prodigality of beauty which arrests the artist, suggest the lair

of snakes and robbers. Nor is the feeling diminished by meeting the

frequent crosses set up on classically piled heaps, which mark the grave

of some murdered man, whose simple, touching epitaph tells the name of

the departed, the date of the treacherous stab, and entreats the

passenger, who is as he was, and may be in an instant as he is, to pray

for his unannealed soul. A shadow of death hovers over such spots, and

throws the stranger on his own thoughts, which, from early associations,

are somewhat in unison with the scene. Nor is the welcome of the

outstretched arms of these crosses over-hearty, albeit they are

sometimes hung with flowers, which mock the dead. Nor are all sermons

more eloquent than these silent stones, on which such brief emblems are

fixed. The Spaniards, from long habit, are less affected by them than

foreigners, being all accustomed to behold crosses and bleeding

crucifixes in churches and out; they moreover well know that by far the

greater proportion of these memorials have been raised to record

murders, which have not been perpetrated by robbers, but are the results

of sudden quarrel or of long brooded-over revenge, and that wine and

women, nine times out of ten, are at the bottom of the calamity.

Nevertheless, it makes a stout English heart uncomfortable, although it

is of little use to be afraid when one is in for it, and on the spot.

Then there is no better chance of escape, than to brave the peril and to

ride on. Turn, therefore, dear reader, a deaf ear to the tales of local

terror which will be told in every out-of-the-way village by the

credulous, timid inhabitants. You, as we have often been, will be

congratulated on having passed such and such a wood, and will be assured

that you will infallibly be robbed at such and such a spot a few leagues

onward. We have always found that this ignis fatuus, like the horizon,

has receded as we advanced; the dangerous spot is either a little behind

or a little before the actual place--it vanishes, as most difficulties

do, when boldly approached and grappled with.

[Sidenote: BANDITTIPHOBIA OF FRENCH TOURISTS.]

At the same time these sorts of places and events admit of much fine

writing when people get safely back again, to say nothing of the dignity

and heroic elevation which may be thus obtained by such an exhibition of

valour during the long vacation. Peaked hats, hair-breadth escapes from

long knives and mustachios, lying down for an hour on your stomach with

your mouth in the mud, are little interludes so diametrically opposed to

civilization, and the humdrum, unpicturesque routine of free Britons who

pay way and police rates, that they form almost irresistible topics to

the pen of a ready writer. And such exciting incidents are sure to take,

and to affect the public at home, who, moreover, are much pleased by the

perusal of _authentic_ accounts from Spain itself, and the best and

latest intelligence, which tally with their own preconceived ideas of

the land. Hence those authors are the most popular who put the self-love

of their reader in best humour with his own stock of knowledge. And this

accounts for the frequency, in Peninsular sketches, personal

narratives, and so forth, of robberies which are certainly oftener to be

met with in their pages than on the plains of the Peninsula. The writers

know that a bandit adventure is as much expected in the journals of such

travels as in one of Mrs. Ratcliffe’s romances; such fleeting books are

chiefly made by “_striking events_;” accordingly, the authors string

together all the floating traditional horrors which they can scrape

together on Spanish roads, and thus feed and keep up the notion

entertained in many counties of England, that the whole Peninsula is

peopled with banditti. If such were the case society could not exist,

and the very fact, of almost all of the reporters having themselves

escaped by a miracle, might lead to the inference that most other

persons escape likewise: a blot is not a blot till it is hit.

[Sidenote: PSEUDO-BANDIT LOOKS.]

Our ingenious neighbours, strange to say in so gallant a people, have a

still more decided bandittiphobia. According to what the badauds of

Paris are told in print, every rash individual, before he takes his

place in the dilly for Spain, ought by all means to make his will, as

was done four hundred years ago at starting on a pilgrimage to

Jerusalem; possibly this may be predicated in the spirit of French

diplomacy, which always has a concealed arrière pensée, and it may be

bruited abroad, on the principle with which illicit distillers and

coin-forgers give out that certain localities are haunted, in order to

scare away others, and thus preserve for themselves a quiet possession.

Perhaps the superabundance of l’esprit Français may give colour and

substance to forms insignificant in themselves, as a painter lost in a

brown study over a coal fire converts cinders into castles, monsters,

and other creatures of his lively imagination; or it may be, as

conscience makes cowards of all, that these gentlemen really see a

bandit in every bush of Spain, and expect from behind every rock an

avenging minister of retaliation, in whose pocket is a list of the

church plate, Murillos, &c. which were found missing after their

countrymen’s invasion. Be that as it may, even so clever a man as

Monsieur Quinet, a real Dr. Syntax, fills pages of his recent _Vacances_

with his continual trepidations, although, from having arrived at his

journey’s end without any sort of accident, albeit not without every

kind of fear, it might have crossed him, that the bugbears existed only

in his own head, and he might have concealed, in his pleasant pages, a

frame of mind the exhibition of which, in England at least, inspires

neither interest nor respect; an over-care of self is not over-heroic.

[Sidenote: IDLE ROBBER TALES.]

It must be also admitted that the respectability and character of many a

Spaniard is liable to be misunderstood, when he sets forth on any of his

travels, except in a public wheel conveyance; as we said in our ninth

chapter, he assumes the national costume of the road, and leaves his

wife and long-tailed coat behind him. Now as most Spaniards are muffled

up and clad after the approved melodrame fashion of robbers, they may be

mistaken for them in reality; indeed they are generally sallow, have

fierce black eyes, uncombed hair, and on these occasions neglect the

daily use of towels and razors; a long beard gives, and not in Spain

alone, a ferocious ruffian-like look, which is not diminished when gun

and knife are added to match faces à la Brutus. Again, these worthies

thus equipped, have sometimes a trick of staring rather fixedly from

under their slouched hat at the passing stranger, whose, to them,

outlandish costume excites curiosity and suspicion; naturally therefore

some difficulty does exist in distinguishing the merino from the wolf,

when both are disguised in the same clothing--a _zamarra_ sheepskin to

wit. A private Spanish gentleman, who, in his native town, would be the

model of a peaceable and inoffensive burgess, or a respectable

haberdasher, has, when on his commercial tour, altogether the appearance

of the Bravo of Venice, and such-like heroes, by whom children are

frightened at a minor theatre. In consequence of the difficulty of

outliving what has been learnt in the nursery, many of our countrymen

have, with the best intentions, set down the bulk of the population of

the Peninsula as one gang of robbers--they have exaggerated their

numbers like Falstaff’s men of buckram; the said imagined Rinaldo

Rinaldinis being probably in a still greater state of alarm from having

on their part taken our said countrymen for robbers, and this mutual

misunderstanding continues, until both explain their slight mistake of

each other’s character and intention. Although we never fell into the

error of thus mistaking Spanish peaceable traders for privateers and

men-of-war, yet that injustice has been done by them to us; possibly

this compliment may have been paid to our careful observation of the

bearing and garb of their great Rob Roy himself and in his own country,

which, to one about to undertake, in those days, long and solitary

rides over the Peninsula, was an unspeakable advantage.

But even in those perilous times, robberies were the exception, not the

rule, in spite of the full, whole, and exact particulars of natives as

well as strangers; the accounts were equally exaggerated by both

parties; in fact, the subject is the standing dish, the common topic of

the lower classes of travellers, when talking and smoking round the

venta fires, and forms the natural and agreeable religio loci, the

associations connected with wild and cut-throat localities. Though these

narrators’ pleasure is mingled with fear and pain, they delight in such

histories as children do in goblin tales. Their Oriental amplification

is inferior only to their credulity, its twin sister, and they end in

believing their own lies. Whenever a robbery really does take place, the

report spreads far and wide, and gains in detail and atrocity, for no

muleteer’s story or sailor’s yarn loses in the telling. The same dire

event,--names, dates, and localities only varied,--is served up, as a

monkish miracle in the mediæval ages was, at many other places, and thus

becomes infinitely multiplied. It is talked of for months all over the

country, while the thousands of daily passengers who journey on unhurt

are never mentioned. It is like the lottery, in which the great prize

alone attracts attention, not the infinite majority of blanks. These

robber-tales reach the cities, and are often believed by most

respectable people, who pass their lives without stirring a league

beyond the walls. They sympathize with all who are compelled to expose

themselves to the great pains and perils, the travail of travel, and

they endeavour with the most good-natured intentions to dissuade rash

adventurers from facing them, by stating as facts, the apprehensions of

their own credulity and imagination.

[Sidenote: SPANISH ROBBER HISTORY.]

The muleteers, _venteros_, and masses of common Spaniards see in the

anxious faces of timid strangers, that their audience is in the

listening and believing vein, and as they are garrulous and egotists by

nature, they seize on a theme in which they alone hold forth; they are

pleased at being considered an authority, and with the superiority which

conveying information gives, and the power of inspiring fear confers;

their mother-wit, in which few nations surpass them, soon discovers the

sort of information which “our correspondent” is in want of, and as

words here cost nothing, the gulping gobemouche is plentifully supplied

with the required article. These reports are in due time set up in type,

and are believed because in print; thus the tricks played on poor Mr.

Inglis and his note-book were the laughter of the whole Peninsula, grave

authorities caught the generous infection, until Mr. Mark’s robber-jokes

at Malaga were booked and swallowed as if he had been an apostle instead

of a consul.

As it was our fate to have wandered up and down the Peninsula when

Ferdinand VII. was king of the Spains, and Jose Maria, at whose name old

men and women there tremble yet, was autocrat of Andalucia, the moment

was propitious for studying the philosophy of Spanish banditti, and our

speculations were much benefited by a fortunate acquaintance with the

redoubtable chief himself, from whom, as well as from many of his

intelligent followers, we received much kindness and valuable

information, which is acknowledged with thankfulness.

Historically speaking, Spain has never enjoyed a good character in this

matter of the highway; it had but an indifferent reputation in the days

of antiquity, but then, as now, it was generally the accusation of

foreigners. The Romans, who had no business to invade it, were harassed

by the native guerrilleros, those undisciplined bands who waged the

“little war,” which Iberia always did. Worried by these unmilitary

voltigeurs, they called all Spaniards who resisted them “_latrones_;”

just as the French invaders, from the same reasons, called them

_ladrones_ or brigands, because they had no uniform; as if the wearing a

schako given by a plundering marshal, could convert a pillager into a

honest man, or the want of it could change into a thief, a noble patriot

who was defending his own property and country; but l’habit ne fait pas

le moine, say the French, and _aunque la mona se viste de seda, mona se

queda_, although a monkey dresses in silk, monkey it remains, rejoin the

Spaniards.

[Sidenote: GUERRILLEROS.]

Armed men are in fact the weed of the soil of Spain, in peace or war; to

have their hand against all mankind seems to be an instinct in every

descendant of Ishmael, and particularly among this Quixotic branch,

whose knight-errants, reformers on horseback, have not unfrequently been

robbers in the guise of gentlemen. During the war against Buonaparte,

the Peninsula swarmed with insurgents, many of whom were inspired, by a

sense of loyalty, with indignation at their outraged religion, and with

a deep-rooted national loathing of the _gabacho_, and good service did

these Minas and Co. do to the cause of their lawful king; but others

used patriotic professions as specious cloaks to cover their instinctive

passion for a lawless and freebooting career, and before the liberation

of the country was effected, had become formidable to all parties alike.

The Duke of Wellington, with his characteristic sagacity, foresaw, at

his victorious conclusion of the struggle, how difficult it would be to

weed out “this strange fruit borne on a tree grafted by patriotism.” The

transition from murdering a Frenchman, to plundering a stranger,

appeared a simple process to these patriotic scions, whose numbers were

swelled with all who were, or who considered themselves to be, ill

used--with all who could not dig, and were ashamed to beg. The evil was

diminished during the latter years of the reign of Ferdinand VII., when

the old hands began to die off, and an advance in social improvement was

unquestionably general, before which these lawless occupations gave way,

as surely as wild animals of prey do before improved cultivation. These

evils, that are abated by internal quiet and the continued exertions of

the authorities, increase with troubled times, which, as the tempest

calls forth the stormy petrel, rouse into dangerous action the worst

portions of society, and create a sort of civil cachexia, as we now see

in Ireland.

[Sidenote: SMUGGLERS.]

Another source was, not to say is, Gibraltar, that hot-bed of

contraband, that nursery of the smuggler, the _prima materia_ of a

robber and murderer. The financial ignorance of the Spanish government

calls him in, to correct the errors of Chancellors of Exchequers:--“trovata

la legge, trovato l’inganno.” The fiscal regulations are so ingeniously

absurd, complicated, and vexatious, that the honest, legitimate merchant

is as much embarrassed as the irregular trader is favoured. The

operation of excessive duties on objects which people must, and

therefore will have, is as strikingly exemplified in the case of tobacco

in Andalucia, as it is in that, and many other articles on the Kent and

Sussex coasts: in both countries the fiscal scourge leads to breaches of

the peace, injury to the fair dealer, and loss to the revenue; it

renders idle, predatory and ferocious, a peasantry which, under a wiser

system, and if not exposed to overpowering temptation, might become

virtuous and industrious. In Spain the evasion of such laws is only

considered as cheating those who cheat the people; the villagers are

heart and soul in favour of the smuggler, as they are of the poacher in

England; all their prejudices are on his side. Some of the mountain

curates, whose flocks are all in that line, deal with the crime in their

sermons as a conventional, not a moral, one; and, like other people,

decorate their mantelpieces with a painted clay figure of the sinner in

his full _majo_ dress. The smuggler himself, so far from feeling

degraded, enjoys the reputation which attends success in personal

adventure, among a people proud of individual prowess; he is the hero of

the Spanish stage, and comes on equipped in full costume, with his

blunderbuss, to sing the well-known “_Yo! que soy contrabandista! yo

ho!_” to the delight of all listeners from the Straits to the Bidasoa,

custom-house officers not excepted.

The _prestige_ of such a theatrical exhibition, like the ‘Robbers’ of

Schiller, is enough to make all the students of Salamanca take to the

high-road. The contrabandista is the Turpin, the Macheath of reality,

and those heroes of the old ballads and theatres of England, who have

disappeared more in consequence of enclosures, rapid conveyances, and

macadamization (for there is nothing so hateful to a highwayman as gas

and a turnpike), than from fear of the prison or the halter. The

writings of Smollett, the recollections of many now alive of the dangers

of Hounslow Heath and Finchley Common, recall scenes of life and manners

from which we have not long emerged, and which have still more recently

been corrected in Spain. The contrabandista in his real character is

welcome in every village; he is the newspaper and channel of

intelligence; he brings tea and gossip for the curate, money and cigars

for the attorney, ribands and cottons for the women; he is magnificently

dressed, which has a great charm for all Moro-Iberian eyes; he is bold

and resolute--“none but the brave deserve the fair;” a good rider and

shot; he knows every inch of the intricate country, wood or water, hill

or dale; in a word, he is admirably educated for the high-road--for what

Froissart, speaking of the celebrated Amerigot Tetenoire, calls “a fayre

and godlie life.” And the transition from plundering the king’s revenue,

to taking one of his subjects’ purse on the highway, is easy.

[Sidenote: FIRST-CLASS BANDITS.]

Many circumstances combined to make this freebooting career popular

among the lower classes. The delight of power, the exhibition of daring

and valour, the temptation of sudden wealth, always so attractive to

half-civilized nations, who prefer the rich spoil won by the bravery of

an hour, to that of the drudgery of years; the gorgeous apparel, the

lavish expenditure, the song, the wassail, the smiles of the fair, and

all the joyous life of liberty, freemasonry, and good fellowship,

operated with irresistible force on a warlike, energetic, and

imaginative population.

This smuggling was the origin of Jose Maria’s career, who rose to the

highest rank and honours of his profession, as did _Napoleon le Grand_

and “Jonathan Wild the Great,” and principally, as Fielding says of his

hero, by a power of doing mischief, and a principle of considering

honesty to be a corruption of _honosty_, the qualities of an ass

(ονος). But it is a great mistake to suppose that there always

are men fitted to be captains of formidable gangs; nature is chary in

the production of such specimens of dangerous grandeur, and as ages may

elapse before the world is cursed with another Alaric, Buonaparte, or

Wild, so years may pass before Spain witnesses again another Jose Maria.

[Sidenote: FIRST-CLASS BANDITS.]

The _Ladron-en-grande_, the robber on a great scale, is the grandee of

the first class in his order; he is the captain of a regularly-organized

band of followers, from eight to fourteen in number, well armed and

mounted, and entirely under command and discipline. These are very

formidable; and as they seldom attack any travellers except with

overwhelming forces, and under circumstances of ambuscade and surprise,

where every thing is in their favour, resistance is generally useless,

and can only lead to fatal accidents. Never, for the sake of a sac de

nuit, risk being sent to Erebus; submit, therefore, at once and with

good grace to the summons, which will take no denial, of “_abajo_,”

down, “_boca á tierra_,” mouth to the earth. Those who have a score or

so of dollars, four or five pounds, the loss of which will ruin no man,

are very rarely ill-used; a frank, confident, and good-humoured

surrender not only prevents any bad treatment, but secures even civility

during the disagreeable operation: pistols and sabres are, after all, a

poor defence compared to civil words, as Mr. Cribb used to say. The

Spaniard, by nature high-bred and a “_caballero_,” responds to any

appeal to qualities of which he thinks his nation has reason to be

proud; he respects coolness of manner, in which bold men, although

robbers, sympathise. Why should a man, because he loses a few dollars,

lose also his presence of mind or temper, or perhaps life? Nor are these

grandees of the system without a certain magnanimity, as Cervantes knew

right well. Witness his graphic account of Roque Guinart, whose conduct

to his victims and behaviour to his comrades tallied, to our certain

knowledge, with that observed by Jose Maria, and was perfectly analogous

to the similar traits of character exhibited by the Italian bandit Ghino

de Tacco, the immortalized by Dante; as well as by our Robin Hood and

Diana’s foresters. Being strong, they could afford to be generous and

merciful.

Notwithstanding these moral securities, if only by way of making

assurance doubly sure, an Englishman will do well when travelling in

exposed districts to be provided with a decent bag of dollars, which

makes a handsome purse, feels heavy in the hand, and is that sort of

amount which the Spanish brigand thinks a native of our proverbially

rich country ought to have with him on his travels. He has a remarkable

tact in estimating from the look of an individual, his equipage, &c.,

how much ready money it is befitting his condition for him to have about

him; if the sum should not be enough, he resents severely his being

robbed of the regular perquisite to which he considers himself entitled

by the long-established usage of the high-road. The person unprovided

altogether with cash is generally made a severe example of, pour

encourager les autres, either by being well beaten or stripped to the

skin, after the fashion of the thieves of old, near Jericho. The

traveller should have a watch of some kind--one with a gaudy gilt chain

and seals is the best suited; not to have one exposes him to more

indignities than a scantily-filled purse. The money may have been spent,

but the absence of a watch can only be accounted for by a premeditated

intention of not being robbed of it, which the “_ladron_” considers as a

most unjustifiable attempt to defraud him of his right.

[Sidenote: THE RATERO.]

The Spanish “_ladrones_” are generally armed with a blunderbuss, that

hangs at their high-peaked saddles, which are covered with a white or

blue fleece, emblematical enough of shearing propensities; therefore,

perhaps, the order of the golden fleece has been given to certain

foreigners, in reward for having eased Spain of her independence and

Murillos. Their dress is for the most part very rich, and in the highest

style of the fancy; hence they are the envy and models of the lower

classes, being arrayed after the fashion of the smuggler, or the

bull-fighter, or in a word, the “_majo_” or dandy of Andalucia, which is

the home and head-quarters of all those who aspire to the elegant

accomplishments and professions just alluded to. The next class of

robbers--omitting some minor distinctions, such as the “_salteadores_,”

or two or three persons who lie in ambuscade and _jump out_ on the

unprepared traveller--is the “_ratero_,” “the rat.” He is not brought

regularly up to the profession and organized, but takes to it on a

sudden, and for the special occasion which, according to the proverb,

makes a thief, _La ocasion hace al ladron_; and having committed his

petty larceny, returns to his pristine occupation or avocation.

[Sidenote: MIGUELITES.]

The “_raterillo_,” or small rat, is a skulking footpad, who seldom

attacks any but single and unprotected passengers, who, if they get

robbed, have no one to blame but themselves; for no man is justified in

exposing Spaniards to the temptation of doing a little something in that

line. The shepherd with his sheep, the ploughman at his plough, the

vine-dresser amid his grapes, all have their gun, ostensibly for their

individual protection, which furnishes means of assault and battery

against those who have no other defence but their legs and virtue. These

self-same extemporaneous thieves are, however, remarkably civil to armed

and prepared travellers; to them they touch their hats, and exclaim,

“Good day to you, my lord knight,” and “May your grace go with God,”

with all that innocent simplicity which is observable in pastorals,

opera-ballets, and other equally correct representations of rural life.

These rats are held in as profound contempt by the higher classes of the

profession, as political ones used to be, before parties were betrayed

by turncoats, who, with tails and without, deserted to the enemies’

camp. The _ladron en grande_ looks down on this sneaking competitor as a

regular M.D. and member of the College of Physicians does on a quack,

who presumes to take fees and kill without a licence. However

despicable, these rats are very dangerous; lacking the generous feeling

which the possession of power and united force bestows, they have the

cowardice and cruelty of weakness: hence they frequently murder their

victim, because dead men tell no tales.

The distinction between these higher and lower classes of rogues will be

better understood by comparing the Napoleon of war, with the Napoleon of

peace. The Corsican was the _ladron en grande_; he warred against

mankind, he led his armed followers to pillage and plunder, he made his

den the receiving house of the stolen goods of the Continent: but he did

it openly and manfully by his own right hand and good sword; and valour

and audacity are qualities too high and rare not to command

admiration--qualified, indeed, when so misapplied. Louis-Philippe is a

_ratero_, who, skulking under disguise of amity and good faith, works

out in the dark, and by cunning, his ends of avarice and ambition; who,

acting on the artful dodger (no) principle, while kissing the Queen,

picks her pocket of a crown.

[Sidenote: MIGUELITES.]

It must be stated for the purposes of history that at the time when

Spain was, or was said to be, overrun with rats and robbers, there was,

as Spaniards have it, a remedy for everything except death; and as the

evils were notorious, it was natural that means of prevention should

likewise exist. If the state of things had been so bad as exaggerated

report would infer, it would have been impossible that any travelling or

traffic could have been managed in the Peninsula. The mails and

diligences, being protected by government, were seldom attacked, and

those who travelled by other methods, and had proper recommendations,

seldom failed in being provided by the authorities with a sufficient

escort. A regular body of men was organized for that purpose; they were

called “_Miguelites_,” from, it is said, one Miguel de Prats, an armed

satellite of the famous or infamous Cæsar Borgia. In Catalonia they are

called “_Mozos de la Escuadra_,” “Lads of the squadron, land marines;”

they are the modern “_Hermandad_,” the brotherhood which formed the old

Spanish rural armed police. Composed of picked and most active young

men, they served on foot, under the orders of the military powers; they

were dressed in a sort of half uniform and half _majo_ costume. Their

gaiters were black instead of yellow, and their jackets of blue trimmed

with red. They were well armed with a short gun and a belt round the

waist in which the ammunition was placed, a much more convenient

contrivance than our cartouche-box; they had a sword, a cord for

securing prisoners, and a single pistol, which was stuck in their

sashes, at their backs. This corps was on a perfect par with the

robbers, from whom some of them were chosen; indeed, the common

condition of the “_indulto_,” or pardon to robbers, is to enlist, and

extirpate their former associates--set a thief to catch a thief; both

the honest and renegade _Miguelites_ hunted “_la mala gente_,” as

gamekeepers do poachers. The robbers feared and respected them; an

escort of ten or twelve _Miguelites_ might brave any number of banditti,

who never or rarely attack where resistance is to be anticipated; and in

travelling through suspected spots these escorts showed singular skill

in taking every precaution, by throwing out skirmishers in front and at

the sides. They covered in their progress a large space of ground,

taking care never to keep above two together, nor more distant from each

other than gun-shot; rules which all travellers will do well to

remember, and to enforce on all occasions of suspicion. The rare

instances in which Englishmen, especially officers of the garrison of

Gibraltar, have been robbed, have arisen from a neglect of this

precaution; when the whole party ride together they may be all caught at

once, as in a casting-net.

[Sidenote: TRAVELLING ESCORTS.]

It may be remarked that Spanish robbers are very shy in attacking armed

English travellers, and particularly if they appear on their guard. The

robbers dislike fighting, and the more as they do so at a disadvantage,

from having a halter round their necks, and they hate danger, from

knowing what it is; they have no chivalrous courage, nor any more

abstract notions of fair play than a Turk or a tiger, who are too

uncivilized to throw away a chance; accordingly, they seldom join issue

where the defendants seem pugnacious, which is likely to be the case

with Englishmen. They also peculiarly dislike English guns and

gunpowder, which, in fact, both as arms and ammunition, are infinitely

superior to those of Spain. Though three or four Englishmen had nothing

to fear, yet where there were ladies it was better to be provided with

an escort of _Miguelites_. These men have a keen and accurate eye, and

were always on the look-out for prints of horses and other signs, which,

escaping the notice of superficial observers, indicated to their

practised observations the presence of danger. They were indefatigable,

keeping up with a carriage day and night, braving heat and cold, hunger

and thirst. As they were maintained at the expense of the government,

they were not, strictly speaking, entitled to any remuneration from

those travellers whom they were directed to escort; it was, however,

usual to give to each man a couple of _pesetas_ a-day, and a dollar to

their leader. The trifling addition of a few cigars, a “_bota_” or two

of wine, some rice and dried cod-fish for their evening meal, was well

bestowed; exercise sharpened their appetites; and they were always proud

to drink to their master’s long life and purse, and protect both.

Those, whether natives or foreigners, who could not obtain or afford the

expense of an escort to themselves, availed themselves of the

opportunity of joining company with some party who had one. It is

wonderful how soon the fact of an escort being granted was known, and

how the number of travellers increased, who were anxious to take

advantage of the convoy. As all go armed, the united allied forces

became more formidable as the number increased, and the danger became

less. If no one happened to be travelling with an escort, then

travellers waited for the passage of troops, for the government’s

sending money, tobacco, or anything else which required protection. If

none of these opportunities offered, all who were about to travel joined

company. This habit of forming caravans is very Oriental, and has become

quite national in Spain, insomuch that it is almost impossible to travel

alone, as others will join; weaker and smaller parties will unite with

all stronger and larger companies whom they meet going the same road,

whether the latter like it or not. The muleteers are most social and

gregarious amongst each other, and will often endeavour to derange their

employer’s line of route, in order to fall in with that of their

chance-met comrades. The caravan, like a snow-ball, increases in bulk as

it rolls on; it is often pretty considerable at the very outset, for,

even before starting, the muleteers and proprietors of carriages, being

well known to each other, communicate mutually the number of travellers

which each has got.

[Sidenote: ESCOPETEROS.]

Travelling in out-of-the-way districts in a “_coche de colleras_,” and

especially if accompanied with a baggage-waggon, exposes the party to be

robbed. When the caravan arrives in the small villages it attracts

immediate notice, and if it gets wind that the travellers are

foreigners, they are supposed to be laden with gold and booty. Such an

arrival is a rare event; the news spreads like wildfire, and collects

all the “_mala gente_,” the bad set of idlers and loiterers, who act as

spies, and convey intelligence to their confederates; again, the bulk of

the equipage, the noise and clatter of men and mules, is seen and heard

from afar, by robbers if there be any, who lurk in hiding-places or

eminences, and are well provided with telescopes, besides with longer

and sharper noses, which, as Gil Blas says, smell coin in travellers’

pockets, while the slow pace and impossibility of flight renders such a

party an easy prey to well-mounted horsemen.

[Sidenote: PASSES AND PROTECTIONS.]

This condition of affairs, these dangers real or imaginary, and these

precautions, existed principally in journeys by cross roads, or through

provinces rarely visited, and unprovided with public carriages; if,

however, such districts were reputed the worst, they often had the

advantage of being freer from regular bands, for where there are few

passengers, why should there be robbers, who like spiders place their

nets where the supply of flies is sure?--and little do the humbler

masses of Spain care either for robbers or revolutionists; they have

nothing to lose, and are beneath the notice of pickpockets or

pseudo-patriots. Their rags are their safeguard, a fine climate clothes

them, a fertile soil feeds them; they doze away in the happy want and

poverty, ever the best protections in Spain, or strum their guitars and

sing staves in praise of empty purses. The better provided have to look

out for themselves; indeed, whenever the law is insufficient men take it

into their own hands, either to protect themselves or their property, or

to administer wild justice, and obtain satisfaction for wrongs, which in

plain Spanish is called revenge. An Irish landlord arms his servants and

raises walls round his “demesne”--an English squire employs watchers and

keepers to preserve his pheasants--so in suspected localities a Spanish

hidalgo protects his person by hiring armed peasants; they are called

“_escopeteros_,” people with guns--a definition which is applicable to

most Spaniards. When out of town this custom of going armed, and early

acquaintance with the use of the gun, is the principal reason why, on

the shortest notice, bodies of men, whom the Spaniards call soldiers,

are got together; every field furnishes the raw material--a man with a

musket. Baggage, commissariat, pay, rations, uniform, and discipline,

which are European rather than Oriental, are more likely to be found in

most other armies than in those of Spain. These things account for the

facility with which the Spanish nation flies so magnanimously to arms,

and after bush-fighting and buccaneering expeditions, disappears at once

after a reverse; “every man to his own home,” as of old in the East, and

that, with or without proclamation. These “_escopeteros_,” occasionally

robbers themselves, live either by robbery or by the prevention of it;

for there is some honour among thieves; “_entre lobos no se come_,”

“wolves don’t eat each other” unless very hard up indeed. These fellows

naturally endeavour to alarm travellers with over-exaggerated accounts

of danger, ogres and antres vast, in order that their services may be

engaged; their inventions are often believed by swallowers of camels,

who note down as facts, these tricks upon travellers got up for the

occasion, by people who are making long noses at them, behind their

backs; but these longer lies are among the accidents of long journeys,

“_en luengas vias, luengas mentiras_.”

[Sidenote: TALISMANIC DEFENCES.]

As we are now writing history, it may be added that great men like Jose

Maria often granted passports. This true trooper of the Deloraine breed

was untrammelled with the fetters of spelling. Although he could barely

write his name, he could _rubricate_[9] as well as any other Spaniard in

command, or Ferdinand VII. himself. “His mark” was a protection to all

who would pay him black mail. It was authenticated with such a

portentous griffonage as would have done credit to Ali Pacha. An

intimate friend of ours, a merry gastronomic dignitary of Seville, who

was going to the baths of Caratraca, to recover from over-indulgence in

rich ollas and valdepeñas, and had no wish, like the gouty abbot of

Boccaccio, to be put on robber regimen, procured a pass from Jose Maria,

and took one of his gang as a travelling escort, who sat on the

coach-box, and whom he described to us as his “_santito_,” his little

guardian angel.

[Sidenote: TALISMANIC DEFENCES.]

While on the subject of this spiritual and supernatural protection, it

may be added that firm faith was placed in the wearing a relic, a medal

of the Virgin, her rosary or scapulary. Thus the Duchess of Abrantes

this very autumn hung the _Virgen del Pilar_ round the neck of her

favourite bull-fighter, who escaped in consequence. Few Spanish soldiers

go into battle without such a preservative in their _petos_, or stuffed

waddings, which is supposed to turn bullets, and to divert fire, like a

lightning conductor, which probably it does, as so few are ever killed.

In the more romantic days of Spain no duel or tournament could be fought

without a declaration from the combatants, that they had no relic, no

_engaño_ or cheat, about their persons. Our friend Jose Maria attributed

his constant escapes to an image of the Virgin of Grief of Cordova,

which never quitted his shaggy breast. Indeed, the native districts of

the lower classes in Spain may be generally known by their religious

ornaments. These talismanic amulets are selected from the saint or relic

most honoured, and esteemed most efficacious, in their immediate

vicinity. Thus the “Santo Rostro,” or Holy Countenance of Jaen, is worn

all over the kingdom of Granada, as the Cross of Caravaca is over

Murcia; the rosary of the Virgin is common to all Spain. The following

miraculous proof of its saving virtues was frequently painted in the

convents:--A robber was shot by a traveller and buried; his comrades,

some time afterwards passing by, heard his voice,--“this fellow in the

cellarage;”--they opened the grave and found him alive and unhurt, for

when he was killed, he had happened to have a rosary round his neck, and

Saint Dominick (its inventor) was enabled to intercede with the Virgin

in his behalf. This reliance on the Virgin is by no means confined to

Spain, since the Italian banditti always wear a small silver heart of

the Madonna, and this mixture of ferocity and superstition is one of the

most terrific features of their character. Saint Nicholas, however, the

English “Old Nick,” is in all countries the patron of schoolboys,

thieves, or, as Shakspere calls them, “Saint Nicholas’s clerks.” “Keep

thy neck for the hangman, for I know thou worshippest St. Nicholas as a

man of falsehood may;” and like him, Santu Diavolu, Santu Diavoluni,

Holy Devil, is the appropriate saint of the Sicilian bandit.

San Dimas, the “good thief,” is a great saint in Andalucia, where his

disciples are said to be numerous. A celebrated carving by Montañes, in

Seville, is called ‘_El Cristo, del buen ladron_,’--“the Christ, _of_

the good thief;” thus making the Saviour a subordinate person. Spanish

robbers have always been remarkably good Roman Catholics. In the

Rinconete y Cortadillo, the Lurker and Cutpurse of Cervantes, whose

Monipodio must have furnished Fagin to Boz, a box is placed before the

Virgin, to which each robber contributes, and one remarks that he “robs

for the service of God, and for all honest fellows.” Their mountain

confessors of the Friar Tuck order, animated by a pious love for dollars

when expended in expiatory masses, consider the payment to them of good

doubloons such a laudable restitution, such a sincere repentance, as to

entitle the contrite culprit to ample absolution, plenary indulgence,

and full benefit of clergy. Notwithstanding this, these ungrateful “good

thieves” have been known to rob their spiritual pastors and masters,

when they catch them on the high road.

To return to the saving merit of these talismans. We ourselves suspended

to our sheepskin jacket one of the silver medals of Santiago, which are

sold to pilgrims at Compostella, and arrived back again to Seville from

the long excursion, safe and sound and unpillaged except by _venteros_

and our faithful squire--an auspicious event, which was entirely

attributed by the aforesaid dignitary to the intervention vouchsafed by

the patron of the Spains to all who wore his order, which thus protects

the bearer as a badge does a Thames waterman from a press-gang.

[Sidenote: EXECUTION OF A ROBBER.]

An account of the judicial death of one of the gang of Jose Maria, which

we witnessed, will be an appropriate conclusion to these remarks, and an

act of justice towards our fair readers for this detail of breaches of

the peace, and the bad company into which they have been introduced.

Jose de Roxas, commonly called (for they generally have some nickname)

_El Veneno_, “Poison,” from his viper-like qualities, was surprised by

some troops: he made a desperate resistance, and when brought to the

ground by a ball in his leg, killed the soldier who rushed forward to

secure him. He proposed when in prison to deliver up his comrades if

his own life were guaranteed to him. The offer was accepted, and he was

sent out with a sufficient force; and such was the terror of his name,

that they surrendered themselves, _not however to him_, and were

_pardoned_. Veneno was then tried for his previous offences, found

guilty, and condemned: he pleaded that he had indirectly accomplished

the object for which his life was promised him, but in vain; for such

trials in Spain are a mere form, to give an air of legality to a

predetermined sentence:--the authorities adhered to the killing letter

of their agreement, and

“Kept the word of promise to the ear,

But broke it to the hope.”

As Veneno was without friends or money, wherewith Gines Passamonte

anointed the palm of justice and got free, the sentence was of course

ordered to be carried into effect. The courts of law and the prisons of

Seville are situated near the Plaça San Francisco, which has always been

the site of public executions. On the day previous nothing indicates the

scene which will take place on the following morning; everything

connected with this ceremony of death is viewed with horror by

Spaniards, not from that abstract abhorrence of shedding blood which

among other nations induces the lower orders to detest the completer of

judicial sentences, as the smaller feathered tribes do the larger birds

of prey, but from ancient Oriental prejudices of pollution, and because

all actually employed in the operation are accounted infamous, and lose

their caste, and purity of blood. Even the gloomy scaffolding is erected

in the night by unseen, unknown hands, and rises from the earth like a

fungus work of darkness, to make the day hideous and shock the awakening

eye of Seville. When the criminal is of noble blood the platform, which

in ordinary cases is composed of mere carpenter’s work, is covered with

black baize. The operation of hanging, among so unmechanical a people,

with no improved patent invisible drop, used to be conducted in a cruel

and clumsy manner. The wretched culprits were dragged up the steps of

the ladder by the executioner, who then mounted on their shoulders and

threw himself off with his victims, and, while both swung backwards and

forwards in the air, was busied, with spider-like fingers, in fumbling

about the neck of the sufferers, until being satisfied that life was

extinct he let himself down to the ground by the bodies. Execution by

hanging was, however, graciously abolished by Ferdinand VII., the

beloved; this father of his people determined that the future death for

civil offences should be strangulation,--a mode of removing to a better

world those of his children who deserved it, which is certainly more in

accordance with the Oriental bow-string.

[Sidenote: EXECUTION OF A ROBBER.]

Veneno was placed, as is usual, the day before his execution, “_en

capilla_” in a chapel or cell set apart for the condemned, where the

last comforts of religion are administered. This was a small room in the

prison, and the most melancholy in that dwelling of woe, for such

indeed, as Cervantes from sad experience knew, and described a Spanish

prison to be, it still is. An iron grating formed the partition of the

corridor, which led to the chamber. This passage was crowded with

members of a charitable brotherhood, who were collecting alms from the

visitors, to be expended in masses for the eternal repose of the soul of

the criminal. There were groups of officers, and of portly Franciscan

friars smoking their cigars and looking carefully from time to time into

the amount of the contributions, which were to benefit their bodies,

quite as much as the soul of the condemned. The levity of those

assembled without formed, meantime, a heartless contrast with the gloom

and horror of the melancholy interior. A small door opened into the

cell, over which might well be inscribed the awful words of Dante--

“Lasciate ogni speranza, voi ch’entrate!”

[Sidenote: EXECUTION OF A ROBBER.]

At the head of this room was placed a table, with a crucifix, an image

of the Virgin, and two wax tapers, near which stood a silent sentinel

with a drawn sword; another soldier was stationed at the door, with a

fixed bayonet. In a corner of this darkened apartment was the pallet of

Veneno; he was lying curled up like a snake, with a striped coverlet

(the Spanish _manta_) drawn closely over his mouth, leaving visible only

a head of matted locks, a glistening dark eye, rolling restlessly out of

the white socket. On being approached he sprung up and seated himself on

a stool: he was almost naked; a chaplet of beads hung across his exposed

breast, and contrasted with the iron chains around his limbs:--Superstition

had riveted her fetters at his birth, and the Law her manacles at his

death. The expression of his face, though low and vulgar, was one which

once seen is not easily forgotten,--a slouching look of more than

ordinary guilt: his sallow complexion appeared more cadaverous in the

uncertain light, and was heightened by a black, unshorn beard, growing

vigorously on a half-dead countenance. He appeared to be reconciled to

his fate, and repeated a few sentences, the teaching of the monks, as by

rote: his situation was probably more painful to the spectator than to

himself--an indifference to death, arising rather from an ignorance of

its dreadful import, than from high moral courage: he was the Bernardine

of Shakspere, “a man that apprehends death no more dreadfully than a

drunken sleep, careless, reckless, and fearless of what’s past, present,

and to come, insensible of mortality, and desperately mortal.”

[Sidenote: EXECUTION OF A ROBBER.]

Next morning the triple tiers of the old balconies, roofs, and whole

area of the Moorish and most picturesque square were crowded by the

lower orders; the men wrapped up in their cloaks--(it was a December

morning)--the women in their mantillas, many with young children in

their arms, brought in the beginning of life to witness its conclusion.

The better classes not only absent themselves from these executions, but

avoid any allusion to the subject as derogatory to European

civilization; the humbler ranks, who hold the conventions of society

very cheap, give loose to their morbid curiosity to behold scenes of

terror, which operates powerfully on the women, who seem impelled

irresistibly to witness sights the most repugnant to their nature, and

to behold sufferings which they would most dread to undergo; they, like

children, are the great lovers of the horrible, whether in a tale or in

dreadful reality; to the men it was as a tragedy, where the last scene

is death--death which rivets the attention of all, who sooner or later

must enact the same sad part.[10] They desire to see how the criminal

will conduct himself; they sympathise with him if he displays coolness

and courage, and despise him on the least symptom of unmanliness. An

open square was then formed about the scaffold by lines of soldiers

drawn up, into which the officers and clergy were admitted. As the

fatal hour drew nigh, the increasing impatience of the multitude began

to vent itself in complaints of how slowly the time passed--that time of

no value to them, but of such precious import to him, whose very moments

were numbered.

[Sidenote: EXECUTION OF A ROBBER.]

When at length the cathedral clock tolled out the fatal hour, a

universal stir of tiptoe expectation took place, a pushing forward to

get the best situations. Still ten minutes had to elapse, for the clock

of the tribunal is purposely set so much later than that of the

cathedral, in order to afford the utmost possible chance of a reprieve.

When that clock too had rung out its knell, all eyes were turned to the

prison-door, from whence the miserable man came forth, attended by some

Franciscans. He had chosen that order to assist at his dying moments, a

privilege always left to the criminal. He was clad in a coarse yellow

baize gown, the colour which denotes the crime of murder, and is

appropriated always to Judas Iscariot in Spanish paintings. He walked

slowly on his last journey, half supported by those around him, and

stopping often, ostensibly to kiss the crucifix held before him by a

friar, but rather to prolong existence--sweet life!--even yet a moment.

When he arrived reluctantly at the scaffold, he knelt down on the steps,

the threshold of death;--the reverend attendants covered him over with

their blue robes--his dying confession was listened to unseen. He then

mounted the platform attended by a single friar; addressed the crowd in

broken sentences, with a gasping breath--told them that he died

repentant, that he was justly punished, and that he forgave his

executioner. “Mi delito me mata, y no _ese hombre_,”--my offence puts me

to death, and not _this fellow_; as “Ese hombre” is a contemptuous

expression, and implies insult, the ruling feeling of the Spaniard was

displayed in death against the degraded functionary. The criminal then

exclaimed, “_Viva la fé! viva la religion! viva el rey! viva el nombre

de Jesus!_” All of which met no echo from those who heard him. His dying

cry was “_Viva la Virgen Santisima!_” at these words the devotion to the

goddess of Spain burst forth in one general acclamation, “_Viva la

Santisima!_” So strong is their feeling towards the Virgin, and so

lukewarm their comparative indifference towards their king, their faith,

and their Saviour! Meanwhile the executioner, a young man dressed in

black, was busied in the preparations for death. The fatal instrument

is simple: the culprit is placed on a rude seat; his back leans against

a strong upright post, to which an iron collar is attached, enclosing

his neck, and so contrived as to be drawn home to the post by turning a

powerful screw. The executioner bound so tightly the naked legs and arms

of Veneno, that they swelled and became black--a precaution not unwise,

as the father of this functionary had been killed in the act of

executing a struggling criminal. The priest who attended Veneno was a

bloated, corpulent man, more occupied in shading the sun from his own

face, than in his ghostly office; the robber sat with a writhing look of

agony, grinding his clenched teeth. When all was ready, the executioner

took the lever of the screw in both hands, gathered himself up for a

strong muscular effort, and, at the moment of a preconcerted signal,

drew the iron collar tight, while an attendant flung a black

handkerchief over the face--a convulsive pressure of the hands and a

heaving of the chest were the only visible signs of the passing of the

robber’s spirit. After a pause of a few moments, the executioner

cautiously peeped under the handkerchief, and after having given another

turn to the screw, lifted it off, folded it up, carefully put it into

his pocket, and then proceeded to light a cigar

------ “with that air of satisfaction

Which good men wear who’ve done a virtuous action.”

[Sidenote: EXECUTION OF A ROBBER.]

The face of the dead man was slightly convulsed, the mouth open, the

eye-balls turned into their sockets from the wrench. A black bier, with

two lanterns fixed on staves, and a crucifix, was now set down before

the scaffold--also a small table and a dish, into which alms were again

collected, to be paid to the priests who sang masses for his soul. The

mob having discussed his crimes, abused the authorities and judges, and

criticised the manner of the new executioner (it was his maiden effort),

began slowly to disperse, to the great content of the neighbouring

silversmiths, who ventured to open their closed shutters, having

hitherto placed more confidence in bolts and bars, than in the moral

example presented to the spectators. The body remained on the scaffold

till the afternoon; it was then thrown into a scavenger’s cart, and led

by the “_pregonero_,” the common crier, beyond the jurisdiction of the

city, to a square platform called “_La mesa del Rey_,” the king’s table,

where the bodies of the executed are quartered and cut up--“a pretty

dish to set before a king.” Here the carcase was hewed and hacked into

pieces by the bungling executioner and his attendants, with that

inimitable defiance of anatomy for which they and Spanish surgeons are

equally renowned--

“Le gambe di lui gettaron in una fossa;

Il Diavol ebbe l’alma, i lupi l’ossa.”

“The legs of the robber were thrown in a hole,

The wolves got his bones, the devil his soul.”

[Sidenote: THE SPANISH DOCTOR.]

Gatherings from Spain · 第 16 / 24 章