APPENDIX I THE STAFF
APPENDIX II SCIENTIFIC WORK
APPENDIX III AN HISTORICAL SUMMARY
APPENDIX IV GLOSSARY
APPENDIX V MEDICAL REPORTS:
WESTERN BASE (QUEEN MARY LAND).
BY S. E. JONES, M.B., Ch.M.
MAIN BASE (ADELIE LAND).
BY A. L. McLEAN, M.B., Ch.M., B.A.
APPENDIX VI FINANCE
APPENDIX VII EQUIPMENT
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
Sir Douglas Mawson (Photogravure)
In Memoriam cross at Cape Denison (Photogravure)
COLOUR PLATES
Virgin solitudes
A weather-worn snow-berg
A grottoed iceberg
The Mertz Glacier Tongue, at a point 50 miles from the land
The Grey Rock Hills at Cape Denison
Winter quarters, Adelie Land
The Alpine-glow
"Antarctica is a world of colour, brilliant and intensely pure..."
Sledging in Adelie Land
[Volume II]
Islets fringing the mainland: view looking west from Stillwell Island
Rafts of floe-ice
Before sunrise: camped near the Hippo Nunatak
Avalanche rocks
Delay Point
The great "Bergschrund" of the Denman Glacier
Tussock slopes and misty highlands
The shack and its vicinity
A Victoria penguin on the nest
A growth of lichen on red sandstone
Antarctic marine life
Brought up in the deep-sea trawl
PLATES
Professor T. W. Edgeworth David
Professor Orme Masson
Captain John King Davis
The wall of the Antarctic Continent
Finner whales of the South
The 'Aurora' crossing the equator, August 1911
Frank Wild
Ginger and her family on the voyage from London
Queen's Wharf, Hobart, an hour before sailing, December 2, 1911
The last view of Hobart nestling below Mt. Wellington
A big, following sea
McLean walking aft in rough weather
Cruising along the west coast of Macquarie Island
A Giant Petrel on the nest
A Young Giant Petrel on the nest. Caroline Cove
The wreck of the "Clyde"
The boat harbour--Hassleborough Bay
The North End of Macquarie Island showing Wireless Hill. The living hut
is at the north end of the isthmus, with North-East Bay on the right and
Hassleborough Bay on the left side
The 'Aurora' anchored in Hassleborough Bay. In the foreground giant
seaweed is swinging in the wash of the surge
A Wanderer Albatross at rest on the water
Hunter tickles a sleeping baby Sea Elephant
A typical Table-Topped neve berg originating from floating Shelf Ice
An Antarctic iceberg with a reticulation of crevasses on its tilted
surface. This berg had no doubt taken its origin from the ice of the
coastal cliffs of Adelie Land
In Pack-Ice
A cavern in the wall (120 feet) of the shelf ice of the Mertz
Glacier-Tongue
A glimpse from within the cavern (shown in the preceding illustration)
The 'Aurora' in Commonwealth Bay; the rising plateau of Adelie Land in
the distance
The invaluable motor-launch; left to right, Hamilton, Bickerton, and
Blake
The whale-boat with passengers for the shore; Wild at the steering oar
First steps in the formation of the Main Base Station; landing of stores
and equipment at the head of the Boat Harbour, Cape Denison. In the
distance men are to be seen sledging the materials to the site selected
for the erection of the hut
A view of a rocky stretch of the Adelie Land Coast west of Commonwealth
Bay
A panorama looking west from winter quarters. On the left and in the
distance are the rising slopes of the inland ice. The moraine is in the
foreground
A panorama of the sea front looking eastward from winter quarters. The
plateau slopes are visible to a height of l500 feet
In open pack-ice
The face of the Shackleton Ice-Shelf 100 miles north of the mainland.
Each strongly-marked horizontal band on the sheer wall represents a
year's snowfall
The 'Aurora' anchored to thick floe-ice 100 miles north of the western
base, Queen Mary Land. In this region the annual snowfall is very heavy,
so that it is possible that the great thickness of floe is due to the
accumulation of one year
A berg with inclusions of mud and rock. Long. 10 degrees E.
The 'Flying-Fox' viewed from the floe-ice below the brink of the shelf
ice on which the western party wintered
Summer at the boat harbour, Cape Denison
An Adelie penguin on the nest defending her eggs
The living-hut, nearing completion. The tents and shelter built of
benzine cases used as temporary quarters are shown
The completion of the hut--cheering the Union Jack as it was hoisted on
the flag pole
Adelie penguins at home, Cape Denison
A view of the main base hut in February 1912, just prior to its
completion. Within a few days of the taking of this picture the hut
became so buried in packed snow that ever afterwards little beyond the
roof was to be seen
Weddell seals asleep on pancake ice
Adelie penguin after weathering a severe blizzard. observe the lumps of
ice adhering to it
A Panoramic view looking south from near the hut. In the distance are
the slopes of the inland ice-sheet. In the foreground is the terminal
moraine. Between the rocks and the figure is a zone where rapid thawing
takes place in the summer owing to the amount of dirt contained in the
ice
A panoramic view looking north towards the sea. In the middle of the
picture is Round Lake. The hut is towards the left-hand side and the
anemograph is on the hill. The men are practising ski running
An evening view from Cape Denison
The head of a Weddell seal
A Weddell seal scratching himself. "Drat those fleas!"
The meteorologist with an ice-mask
Where the plateau descends to Commonwealth Bay
MacCormick Skua gull on the nest with egg
Chick of MacCormick Skua gull on the nest
Protection--Adelie penguin and chick
The lower moraine, composed of water worn boulders, Cape Denison
An ice-polished surface, Cape Denison
The boat harbour in March. The hut is seen dimly through light drift
"Race of the Spray Smoke's Hurtling Sheet"
Walking against a strong wind
Picking ice for domestic purposes in a hurricane wind. Note the high
angle at which Webb is leaning on the wind
Leaning upon the wind; Madigan near the meteorological screen
Stillwell collecting geological specimens in the wind
In the blizzard; getting ice for domestic purposes from the glacier
adjacent to the hut
An incident in March soon after the completion of the hut: Hodgeman, the
night watchman, returning from his rounds outside, pushes his way into
the veranda through the rapidly accumulating drift snow
Mertz in the snow tunnels on his way to the interior of the hut with a
box of ice for the melters
Mertz emerging from the trap-door in the roof
Working in the hurricane wind, Adelie Land
Getting ice for domestic purposes. Whetter picking; Madigan with the
ice-box
The ice-cliff coastline east of winter quarters
Madigan's frostbitten face
Correll, Bage, McLean, Hodgeman, Hunter, and Bickerton
A winter afternoon scene in the hut. From the left: Mertz, McLean,
Madigan, Hunter, Hodgeman. High on the left is the acetylene generator
Taking a turn in the kitchen department. Hunter, Hodgeman, Bage. The
doorway on the right is the entrance to the workroom
A corner of the hut--Bage mending his sleeping bag. The bunks in two
tiers around the wall are almost hidden by the clothing hanging from the
ceiling
A winter evening at the hut. Standing up: Mawson, Madigan, Ninnis, and
Correll. Sitting round the table from left to right: Stillwell, Close,
McLean, Hunter, Hannam, Hodgeman, Murphy, Lasebon, Bickerton, Mertz, and
Bage
A morning in the workshop. From left to right: Hodgeman, Hunter,
Lasebon, Correll, and Hannam. The petrol engine part of the wireless
plant on the right
Welding by thermit in the workroom, Adelie Land. Bickerton, Correll,
Hannam and Mawson
In the catacombs. Ninnis on the right
Bage and his tide gauge which was erected on the frozen bay ice
Raising the lower section of the northern wireless mast
The weathered cliffs of a glacier sheet pushing out into the frozen sea
east of Cape Denison
Bage at the door of his astronomical transit House
Webb and his magnetograph house
At work on the air-tractor sledge in the hangar; Bage, Ninnis, and
Bickerton
Webb adjusting the instruments in the magnetograph house a calm noon in
winter, Cape Denison
The ridged surface of a lake frozen during a blizzard
A lively scene in the vicinity of an Antarctic Petrel rookery, Cape
Hunter
A Weddell seal swimming below the ice-foot
A rascally Sea Leopard casting a wicked eye over the broken floe at
Land's End. Main Base
A Crab-Eater seal; common amongst the pack-ice
The rare Ross seal
One of McLean's cultures; bacteria and moulds; illustrating
micro-organisms in the hut
Ice flowers on the newly formed sea-ice
Madigan visiting the anemograph screen in a high wind
The Puffometer, designed to record maximum gust velocities
An enormous cone of snow piled up by the blizzards under the coastal
cliffs
The cliffs at Land's End, Cape Denison. On the brow of the cliff in
front of the figure (Mertz) is a good example of a snow cornice
On the frozen sea in a cavern eaten out by the waves under the coastal
ice-cliffs
Ice stalactites draping the foreshores
A grotto of "mysteries"
The relief of Wild's party. The "Aurora" approaching the floe at the
western base, February 1913
Pacing the deck: Capt. John King Davis and Capt. James Davis
An Adelie penguin feeding its young
"Amundsen", one of the sledge dogs sent down to us from Amundsen's South
Polar Expedition
At the foot of a snow ramp beneath the coastal ice-cliffs, Commonwealth
Bay
At Aladdin's Cave. The vertical passage leading down into the cave
itself is situated immediately behind the figure on the right
Beneath the surface of the plateau. Bage preparing a meal in Aladdin's
Cave in August
Laseron and Hunter using the collapsible steel handcart in preparing for
dredging on the frozen sea
Greenland Sledging Dogs--"John Bull" and "Ginger"--tethered on the rocks
adjacent to the hut
The Mackellar islets viewed from an elevation of 800 feet on the
mainland
Snow Petrels preparing to nest, Cape Denison
A Snow Petrel on the nest
Adelie penguins diving into the sea in quest of food
Adelie penguins jumping on to the floe
Mertz in an icy ravine
Mertz and Ninnis arrive with the dogs at Aladdin's Cave
Mertz emerging from Aladdin's Cave
A team of dogs eagerly following Ninnis
The dogs enjoy their work
Speeding east
A distant view of Aurora Peak from the west
Lieutenant B. E. S. Ninnis, R.F.
Mertz, Ninnis, and Mawson erecting the tent in a high wind
A later stage in erection of the tent in a wind (one man is inside)
Dr. Xavier Mertz
Pages from Dr. Mertz' diary
Mawson emerging from his makeshift tent
The half-sledge used in the last stage of Mawson's journey
"...The long journey was at an end--a terrible chapter of my life was
finished!"
The southern supporting party on the plateau. Hunter, Murphy and Laseron
The southern and supporting parties building a depot on the plateau
Depot made by the southern and supporting parties at a point 67 miles
south of Commonwealth Bay. Murphy, Laseron, and Hunter packing sledge in
the foreground; Bage in the distance
A rough sledging surface of high Sastrugi encountered by the southern
party 200 miles S.S.E. of the hut
Farthest south camp of southern party, 17 "minutes" (about 50 miles)
from the South Magnetic Pole. Bage near sledge; Webb taking set of
magnetic observations behind snow barricade
Sastrugi furrowed by the mighty winds of the plateau, 250 miles S.S.E.
of winter quarters, Adelie Land
Under reefed sail. Southern party 290 miles S.S.E. of winter quarters,
Adelie Land
Hurley in sledging gear
Correll on the edge of a ravine in the ice sheet
Madigan's, Murphy's, and Stillwell's parties breaking camp at Aladdin's
Cave at the commencement of the summer journeys
The surface of the continental ice sheet in the coastal region where it
is badly crevassed
Working the sledge through broken sea ice, 46 miles off King George V
Land. Madigan, Correll and McLean
The "Organ-Pipes" of Horn Bluff (1000 feet in height) pushing out from
the mainland
Madigan, Correll and McLean camped below the cliffs of Horn Bluff (1000
FEET IN height). Columnar Dolerite is seen surmounting a sedimentary
series partly buried in the talus-slope
An outcrop of a sedimentary formation containing bands of coal
projecting through the talus slope below the columnar dolerite at Horn
Bluff
The face of a granite outcrop near penguin point. At its base is a tide
crack and ice foot
The granite cliffs at Penguin Point where Cape Pigeon and Silver Petrel
rookeries were found; the site of New Year's Camp
[VOLUME II]
Madigan Nunatak--Close and Laseron standing by the sledge
A desolate camp on the plateau
Sledging rations for three men for three months
Stillwell Island--a haunt of the Silver-Grey petrel
"The Bus", the air-tractor sledge
Bickerton and his sledge with detachable wheels
Amongst the splintered ice where the ice-sheet descends to the sea near
Cape Denison
The big winding-drum for the deep-sea dredging cable
Fletcher with the driver loaded ready to take a sounding
At the provision depot for castaways provided by the New Zealand
Government, Camp Cove, Carnley Harbour, Auckland Island. Primmer on the
right
The brick pier erected at Port Ross, Auckland Islands, by the
magneticians of Sir James Clarke Ross's Expedition
The "Aurora" at anchor in Port Ross, Auckland Islands
The Monagasque trawl hoisted on the derrick: Gray standing by
A remarkable berg, two cusps standing on a single basement. Note that it
has risen considerably out of the sea, exposing old water lines
A portal worn through a berg by the waves
A turreted berg
A Midsummer view of the hut and its neighbourhood, looking S.E.
Forging through pack-ice
Members of the main base party homeward bound, January 1913. From left
to right: back row, Whetter, Hurley, Webb, Hannam, Laseron, Close; front
row, Stillwell, Hunter, Correll, Murphy
"Wireless" Corner in the workshop. Our link with civilization
The "Aurora" anchored to the floe off the western base
The establishment of the western base. Hauling stores to the top of the
ice-shelf
The western base hut in winter. Note the entrance; a vertical hole in
the snow in the foreground
The western base hut--The Grottoes--in summer
An evening camp, Queen Mary Land
A man-hauled sledge
In the veranda of the western base hut--The "Grottoes"--looking towards
the entrance dug vertically down through the snow drift
The wind-weathered igloo built for magnetic observations--western base
Nunatak--Queen Mary Land: showing remarkable moat on windward side and
ramp on lee
Midwinter's dinner in Queen Mary Land, 1912. From left to right:
Behind--Hoadley, Dovers, Watson, Harrisson, Wild. In Front--Jones,
Moyes, Kennedy
A bevy of Emperor penguins on the floe
A yawning crevasse
Wild's party making slow progress in dangerous country
Wild, Kennedy, and Harrisson amongst the abysses of the Denman glacier
"The whole was the wildest, maddest and yet the grandest thing
imaginable"
Wild's party working their sledges through the crushed ice at the foot
of Denman glacier
The Hippo Nunatak
Dog-sledging
Where the floe-ice meets the Shackleton Shelf
The hummocky floe on the southern margin of the Davis Sea
View showing the young birds massed together at the Emperor penguins'
rookery at Haswell Island
Antarctic petrels on the nest
A Snow petrel chick on the nest
A Silver-Grey petrel on the nest
The symmetrically domed outline of Drygalski Island, low on the horizon.
The island is 1200 feet high and 9 miles in diameter
The main western party on their return to the "Grottoes." from the left:
Hoadley, Jones and Dovers
Blizzard-harassed penguins, after many days buried in the snow
The pancake ice under the cliffs at Land's End
A wonderful canopy of ice
Sastrugi sculptured by the incessant blizzards
The terminal moraine, near the hut, Cape Denison
Disappearing in the drift
The hut looming through the drift
A wall of solid gneiss near winter quarters
An erratic on the moraine. Cape Denison
Frozen spray built up by the blizzards along the shore
A view of the mainland from the Mackellar Islets: ice-capped islets in
the foreground: the rock visible on the mainland is Cape Denison
A Wilson petrel on the nest, Mackellar Islets
The "Aurora" lying at anchor, Commonwealth Bay; in the distance the
ice-slopes of the mainland are visible rising to a height of 3500 feet.
In the foreground is a striking formation originating by the freezing of
spray dashed up by the hurricane wind
The shack: showing the natural rocky protection on the windward side
The interior of the operating hut on Wireless Hill
Weka pecking on the beach
Chicks of the Dominican gull
Macquarie Island Skuas feeding
Bull Sea Elephants fighting
The thermometer screen, Macquarie Island
The wind-recording instruments, Macquarie Island
"Feather bed" terrace near Eagle Point, Macquarie Island
A glacial lake (Major Lake) on Macquarie Island, 600 feet above sea
level
Victoria penguins
View of the wireless station on the summit of Wireless Hill
The wireless operating hut
The wireless engine hut
Panoramic view of Macquarie Island, as seen from Wireless Hill at the
north extremity of the island. The shack is near the bottom of the
picture on the left-hand side: the sealers' hut at the far end of
the isthmus: the distant left-hand point of the coast is the Nuggets:
north-east bay on the left: Hasselborough Bay on the right
A view of the shore at The Nuggets: the sealers' shed on the right.
the bare patches far inland high on the hills above the shed are Royal
penguins' rookeries, from which they travel to the beach in a long
procession
Sooty albatrosses nesting
A white Giant Petrel on the nest
A Giant Petrel rookery
The Macquarie Island party. From left to right: Sandell, Ainsworth,
Sawyer, Hamilton, Blake
King penguins
The head of a Sea Leopard, showing fight
A precocious Victoria penguin
Young male Sea Elephants at play
A large Sea Leopard on the beach
A Sea Elephant
A cormorant rookery, Hasselborough Bay
A young King penguin
A Sclater penguin
Royal penguins on the nest
Gentoo penguin and young
A cow Sea Elephant and pup
The head of a bull Sea Elephant
A rookery of Sea Elephants near the shore at the Nelson reef, chiefly
cows and pups
A bull Sea Elephant in a fighting attitude
A cormorant and young on nest
The wild West Coast of Macquarie Island
A Royal penguins rookery
The wreck of the "Gratitude" on the Nuggets beach
Kerguelen Cabbage
Flowering plant
Darby and Joan. Two rare examples of penguins which visited the shack,
Macquarie Island. On the left a Sclater penguin, on the right an albino
Royal penguin
Large erratics and other glacial debris on the summit of Macquarie
Island
Pillow-form lava on the highlands of Macquarie Island
Waterfall Lake, of glacial origin
On the plateau-like summit of Macquarie Island; a panorama near the
north end. Glacial lakes and tarns in the foreground
The King penguins rookery, Lusitania Bay
The head of a bull Sea Elephant photographed in the act of roaring
The rookery of Royal penguins at the south end, viewed from a cliff
several hundred feet above it
Young Sea Elephants asleep amongst Royal penguins, south end rookery
Hamilton inspecting a good catch of fish at Lusitania Bay
Hamilton obtaining the blubber of a Sea Elephant for fuel
An illustration of the life on the Mackellar Islets
An ice mushroom amongst the Mackellar Islets
View looking out of a shallow ravine at the eastern extremity of the
rocks at Cape Denison
"Hurley had before him a picture in perfect proportion...."
Antarctic petrels resting on the snow
Silver-grey petrels making love
Looking towards the mainland from Stillwell Island: Silver-grey petrels
nesting in the foreground
Antarctic petrels nesting on the rocky ledges of the cliffs near Cape
Hunter
Icing ship in the pack north of Termination Ice-tongue
Emperor penguins follow the leader into the sea
Emperor penguins jumping on to the floe
Cape Hunter, composed of ancient sedimentary rocks (Phyllites)
Examples of Antarctic marine crustaceans
TEXT ILLUSTRATIONS
Antarctic discoveries preceding the year 1910
Plan and section of the S.Y. 'Aurora"
Map of Macquarie Island by L. R. BLAKE
Ships' tracks in the vicinity of Totten's Land and North's Land
Ships' tracks in the vicinity of Knox Land and Budd Land
Plan of the hut, Adelie Land
Sections across the hut, Adelie Land
The vicinity of the main base, Adelie Land
A section of the coastal slope of the continental ice-sheet inland from
winter quarters, Adelie Land
Wind velocity and wind direction charts for a period of twenty-four
hours, Adelie Land
A comparison of wind velocities and temperatures prevailing at Cape
Royds, McMurdo Sound, and at winter quarters, Adelie Land, during the
months of May and June
The drift-gauge
The wind velocity and wind direction charts for midwinter day
The tide-gauge
Midwinter Day menu at the main base, Adelie Land, 1912
Section through a Nansen sledging cooker mounted on the Primus
Map showing the track of the southern sledging party from the main base
[VOLUME II]
Map showing the remarkable distribution of islets fringing the
coast-line of Adelie Land in the vicinity of Cape Gray
Map showing the tracks of the western sledging party, Adelie Land
Plan illustrating the arrangements for deep-sea trawling on board the
"Aurora"
Map of the Auckland Islands
The "Contents" page of the first number of the "Adelie Blizzard"
The meteorological chart for April 12, 1913, compiled by the
Commonwealth Meteorological Bureau
A diagrammatic sketch illustrating the meteorological conditions at the
main base, noon, September 6, 1913
Plan of the hut, Macquarie Island
Map of the north end of Macquarie Island by L. R. Blake
A section across Macquarie Island through Mt. Elder, by L. R. Blake
A sketch illustrating the distribution of the Mackellar Islets
A section illustrating the moat in the Antarctic continental shelf
Signatures of members of the land parties
A section of the Antarctic plateau from the coast to a point 300 miles
inland, along the route followed by the southern sledging party
A section across a part of the Antarctic continent through the South
Magnetic Pole
A section of the floor of the Southern Ocean between Tasmania and King
George V Land
A section of the floor of the Southern Ocean between Western Australia
and Queen Mary Land
A map showing Antarctic land discoveries preceding 1838
A map showing Antarctic land discoveries preceding 1896
A map of the Antarctic regions as known at the present day
FOLDING MAPS
Regional map showing the area covered by the Australasian Antarctic
Expedition, 1911-1914
King George V Land, showing tracks of the eastern sledging parties from
the main base
Queen Mary Land, showing tracks of the sledging party from the main base
CHAPTER I THE PROBLEM AND PREPARATIONS
Notwithstanding the fact that it has been repeatedly stated in the
public press that the Australasian Antarctic expedition had no intention
of making the South Geographical Pole its objective, it is evident that
our aims were not properly realized by a large section of the British
public, considering that many references have appeared in print
attributing that purpose to the undertaking. With three other Antarctic
expeditions already in the field, it appeared to many, therefore, that
the venture was entirely superfluous.
The Expedition had a problem sketched in unmistakable feature, and
the following pages will shortly set forth its historical origin and
rationale.
The Antarctic problem** assumed its modern aspect after Captain Cook's
circumnavigation of the globe in high southern latitudes, accomplished
between 1772 and 1775. Fact replaced the fiction and surmise of former
times, and maps appeared showing a large blank area at the southern
extremity of the earth, where speculative cartographers had affirmed the
existence of habitable land extending far towards the Equator. Cook's
voyage made it clear that if there were any considerable mass of
Antarctic land, it must indubitably lie within the Antarctic Circle, and
be subjected to such stringent climatic conditions as to render it an
unlikely habitation for man.
** Dr. H. R. Mill has compiled a complete account of Antarctic
exploration in his "Siege of the South Pole." Refer also to the
Historical Appendix for an abridged statement.
Cook's reports of seals on the island of South Georgia initiated in the
Antarctic seas south of America a commercial enterprise, which is still
carried on, and has incidentally thrown much light upon the geography of
the South Polar regions. Indeed, almost the whole of such information,
prior to the year 1839, was the outcome of sealing and whaling projects.
About the year 1840, a wave of scientific enthusiasm resulted in the
dispatch of three national expeditions by France, the United States,
and Great Britain; part at least of whose programmes was Antarctic
exploration. Russia had previously sent out an expedition which had made
notable discoveries.
The contributions to knowledge gained at this period were considerable.
Those carried back to civilization by the British expedition under Ross,
are so well known that they need not be described. The French under
Dumont D'Urville and the Americans under Wilkes visited the region to
the southward of Australia--the arena of our own efforts--and frequent
references will be made to their work throughout this story.
What has been termed the period of averted interest now intervened,
before the modern movement set in with overpowering insistence. It
was not till 1897 that it had commenced in earnest. Since then many
adventurers have gone forth; most of the prominent civilized nations
taking their share in exploration. By their joint efforts some, at
least, of the mystery of Antarctica has been dispelled.
It is now a commonplace, largely in the world of geographical concerns,
that the earth has still another continent, unique in character, whose
ultimate bounds are merely pieced together from a fragmentary outline.
The Continent itself appears to have been sighted for the first time in
the year 1820, but no human being actually set foot on it until 1895.
The Belgian expedition under de Gerlache was the first to experience the
Antarctic winter, spending the year 1898 drifting helplessly, frozen
in the pack-ice, to the southward of America. In the following year a
British expedition under Borchgrevinck, wintering at Cape Adare, passed
a year upon the Antarctic mainland.
The main efforts of recent years have been centred upon the two more
accessible areas, namely, that in the American Quadrant** which is
prolonged as a tongue of land outside the Antarctic Circle, being
consequently less beset by ice; secondly, the vicinity of the Ross Sea
in the Australian Quadrant. It is because these two favoured domains
have for special reasons attracted the stream of exploration that
the major portion of Antarctica is unknown. Nevertheless, one is in a
position to sketch broad features which will probably not be radically
altered by any future expeditions.
** For convenience, the Antarctic regions may be referred to in four
main divisions, corresponding with the quadrants of the hemisphere. Of
the several suggestions thrown out by previous writers, the one adopted
here is that based on the meridian of Greenwich, referring the quadrants
to an adjacent continent or ocean. Thus the American Quadrant lies
between 0 degrees and 90 degrees W., the African Quadrant between
0 degrees and 90 degrees E., and the Australian Quadrant between 90
degrees and 180 degrees E. The fourth division is called the Pacific
Quadrant, since ocean alone lies to the north of it.
Certain it is that a continent approaching the combined areas of
Australia and Europe lies more or less buried beneath the South Polar
snows; though any statement of the precise area is insufficient for a
proper appreciation of the magnitude, unless its elevated plateau-like
character be also taken into consideration. It appears to be highest
over a wide central crown rising to more than ten thousand feet. Of the
remainder, there is little doubt that the major portion stands as high
as six thousand feet. The average elevation must far exceed that of any
other continent, for, with peaks nineteen thousand feet above sea-level,
its mountainous topography is remarkable. Along the coast of Victoria
Land, in the Australian Quadrant, are some of the most majestic vistas
of alpine scenery that the world affords. Rock exposures are rare, ice
appearing everywhere except in the most favoured places.
Regarding plant and animal life upon the land there is little to say.
The vegetable kingdom is represented by plants of low organization such
as mosses, lichens, diatoms and algae. The animal world, so far as true
land-forms are concerned, is limited to types like the protozoa (lowest
in the organic scale), rotifera and minute insect-like mites which lurk
hidden away amongst the tufts of moss or on the under side of loose
stones. Bacteria, most fundamental of all, at the basis, so to speak, of
animal and vegetable life, have a manifold distribution.
It is a very different matter when we turn to the life of the
neighbouring seas, for that vies in abundance with the warmer waters
of lower latitudes. There are innumerable seals, many sea-birds and
millions of penguins. As all these breed on Antarctic shores, the
coastal margin of the continent is not so desolate.
In view of the fact that life, including land-mammals, is abundant in
the North Polar regions, it may be asked why analogous forms are not
better represented in corresponding southern latitudes. Without going
too deeply into the question, it may be briefly stated, firstly, that a
more widespread glaciation than at present prevails invested the great
southern continent and its environing seas, within recent geological
times, effectually exterminating any pre-existing land life. Secondly,
since that period the continent has been isolated by a wide belt of
ocean from other lands, from which restocking might have taken
place after the manner of the North Polar regions. Finally, climatic
conditions in the Antarctic are, latitude for latitude, much more severe
than in the Arctic.
With regard to climate in general, Antarctica has the lowest mean
temperature and the highest wind-velocity of any land existing. This
naturally follows from the fact that it is a lofty expanse of ice-clad
land circumscribing the Pole, and that the Antarctic summer occurs when
the earth is farther from the sun than is the case during the Arctic
summer.
There are those who would impatiently ask, "What is the use of it all?"
The answer is brief.
[TEXT ILLUSTRATION]
Antarctic Land discoveries preceding the year 1910
The polar regions, like any other part of the globe, may be said to be
paved with facts, the essence of which it is necessary to acquire before
knowledge of this special zone can be brought to even a provisional
exactitude. On the face of it, polar research may seem to be specific
and discriminating, but it must be remembered that an advance in any one
of the departments into which, for convenience, science is artificially
divided, conduces to the advantage of all. Science is a homogeneous
whole. If we ignore the facts contained in one part of the world, surely
we are hampering scientific advance. It is obvious to every one that,
given only a fraction of the pieces, it is a much more difficult task to
put together a jig-saw puzzle and obtain an idea of the finished pattern
than were all the pieces at hand. The pieces of the jig-saw puzzle are
the data of science.
Though it is not sufficiently recognized, the advance of science is
attended by a corresponding increase in the creature comforts of
man. Again, from an economic aspect, the frozen South may not attract
immediate attention. But who can say what a train of enterprise the
future may bring?
Captain James Cook, on his return to London after the circumnavigation
of Antarctica, held that the far-southern lands had no future. Yet, a
few years later, great profits were being returned to Great Britain
and the United States from sealing-stations established as a result of
Cook's own observations. At the present day, several whaling companies
have flourishing industries in the Antarctic waters within the American
Quadrant.
Even now much can be said in regard to the possibilities offered by
the Antarctic regions for economic development, but, year by year, the
outlook will widen, since man is constantly resorting to subtler and
more ingenious artifice in applying Nature's resources. It will be
remembered that Charles Darwin, when in Australia, predicted a very
limited commercial future for New South Wales. But the mastery of man
overcame the difficulties which Darwin's too penetrating mind foresaw.
What will be the role of the South in the progress of civilization and
in the development of the arts and sciences, is not now obvious. As
sure as there is here a vast mass of land with potentialities, strictly
limited at present, so surely will it be cemented some day within the
universal plinth of things.
An unknown coast-line lay before the door of Australia. Following on
the general advance of exploration, and as a sequel to several important
discoveries, the time arrived when a complete elucidation of the
Antarctic problem was more than ever desirable. In the Australian
Quadrant, the broad geographical features of the Ross Sea area were well
known, but of the remainder and greater portion of the tract only vague
and imperfect reports could be supplied.
Before submitting our plans in outline, it will be as well to review the
stage at which discovery had arrived when our Expedition came upon the
scene.
The coast-line of the eastern extremity of the Australian Quadrant,
including the outline of the Ross Sea and the coast west-north-west
of Cape Adare as far as Cape North, was charted by Ross and has been
amplified by seven later expeditions. In the region west of Cape North,
recent explorers had done little up till 1911. Scott in the 'Discovery'
had disproved the existence of some of Wilkes's land; Shackleton in the
'Nimrod' had viewed some forty miles of high land beyond Cape North;
lastly, on the eve of our departure, Scott's 'Terra Nova' had met two
patches of new land--Oates Land--still farther west, making it evident
that the continent ranged at least two hundred and eighty miles in a
west-north-west direction from Cape Adare.
Just outside the western limit of the Australian Quadrant lies
Gaussberg, discovered by a German expedition under Drygalski in
1902. Between the most westerly point sighted by the 'Terra Nova' and
Gaussberg, there is a circuit of two thousand miles, bordering the
Antarctic Circle, which no vessel had navigated previous to 1840.
This was the arena of our activities and, therefore, a synopsis of the
voyages of early mariners will be enlightening.
Balleny, a whaling-master, with the schooner 'Eliza Scott' of one
hundred and fifty-four tons, and a cutter, the 'Sabrina' of fifty-four
tons, was the first to meet with success in these waters. Proceeding
southward from New Zealand in 1839, he located the Balleny Islands, a
group containing active volcanoes, lying about two hundred miles off
the nearest part of the mainland and to the north-west of Cape Adare.
Leaving these islands, Balleny sailed westward keeping a look-out for
new land. During a gale the vessels became separated and the 'Sabrina'
was lost with all hands. Balleny in the 'Eliza Scott' arrived safely
in England and reported doubtful land in 122 degrees E. longitude,
approximately. Dr. H. R. Mill says: "Although the name of the cutter
'Sabrina' has been given to an appearance of land at this point, we
cannot look upon its discovery as proved by the vague reference made by
the explorers."
On January 1, 1840, Dumont D'Urville sailed southward from Hobart in
command of two corvettes, the 'Astrolabe' and the 'Zelee'. Without much
obstruction from floating ice, he came within sight of the Antarctic
coast, thenceforth known as Adelie Land. The expedition did not set
foot on the mainland, but on an adjacent island. They remained in the
vicinity of the coast for a few days, when a gale sprang up which was
hazardously weathered on the windward side of the pack-ice. The ships
then cruised along the face of flat-topped ice-cliffs, of the type known
as barrier-ice or shelf-ice, which were taken to be connected with
land and named Cote Clarie. As will be seen later, Cote Clarie does not
exist.
Dr. H. R. Mill sums up the work done by the French expedition during its
eleven days' sojourn in the vicinity of the Antarctic coast:
"D'Urville's discoveries of land were of but little account. He twice
traced out considerable stretches of a solid barrier of ice, and at one
point saw and landed upon rocks in front of it; but he could only give
the vaguest account of what lay behind the barrier."
Wilkes of the American expedition proceeded south from Sydney at the
close of 1839. His vessels were the 'Vincennes', a sloop of war of seven
hundred and eighty tons, the 'Peacock', another sloop of six hundred and
fifty tons, the 'Porpoise', a gun-brig of two hundred and thirty tons
and a tender, the 'Flying Fish' of ninety-six tons. The scientists
of the expedition were precluded from joining in this part of the
programme, and were left behind in Sydney. Wilkes himself was loud in
his denunciation both of the ships and of the stores, though they had
been specially assembled by the naval department. The ships were in
Antarctic waters for a period of forty-two days, most of the time
separated by gales, during which the crews showed great skill in
navigating their ill-fitted crafts and suffered great hardships.
Land was reported almost daily, but, unfortunately, subsequent
exploration has shown that most of the landfalls do not exist. Several
soundings made by Wilkes were indicative of the approach to land, but
he must have frequently mistaken for it distant ice-masses frozen in the
pack. Experience has proved what deceptive light-effects may be observed
amid the ice and how easily a mirage may simulate reality.
Whatever the cause of Wilkes's errors, the truth remains that Ross
sailed over land indicated in a rough chart which had been forwarded
to him by Wilkes, just before the British expedition set out. More
recently, Captain Scott in the 'Discovery' erased many of the landfalls
of Wilkes, and now we have still further reduced their number. The
'Challenger' approached within fifteen miles of the western extremity
of Wilkes's Termination Land, but saw no sign of it. The 'Gauss' in
the same waters charted Kaiser Wilhelm II Land well to the south of
Termination Land, and the eastward continuation of the former could
not have been visible from Wilkes's ship. After the voyage of the
'Discovery', the landfalls, the existence of which had not been
disproved, might well have been regarded as requiring confirmation
before their validity could be recognised.
The only spot where rocks were reported in situ was in Adelie Land,
where the French had anticipated the Americans by seven days. Farther
west, earth and stones had been collected by Wilkes from material
embedded in floating masses of ice off the coast of his Knox Land. These
facts lend credence to Wilkes's claims of land in that vicinity. His
expedition did not once set foot on Antarctic shores, and, possibly on
account of the absence of the scientific staff, his descriptions tend to
be inexact and obscure. The soundings made by Wilkes were sufficient to
show that he was probably in some places at no great distance from the
coast, and, considering that his work was carried out in the days of
sailing-ships, in unsuitable craft, under the most adverse weather
conditions, with crews scurvy-stricken and discontented, it is wonderful
how much was achieved. We may amply testify that he did more than open
the field for future expeditions.
After we had taken into account the valuable soundings of the
'Challenger' (1872), the above comprised our knowledge concerning
some two thousand miles of prospective coast lying to the southward of
Australia, at a time when the plans of the Australasian expedition were
being formulated.
The original plans for the expedition were somewhat modified upon my
return from Europe. Briefly stated, it was decided that a party of five
men should be stationed at Macquarie Island, a sub-antarctic possession
of the Commonwealth. They were to be provided with a hut, stores and
a complete wireless plant, and were to prosecute general scientific
investigations, co-operating with the Antarctic bases in meteorological
and other work. After disembarking the party at Macquarie Island, the
'Aurora' was to proceed south on a meridian of 158 degrees E. longitude,
to the westward of which the Antarctic programme was to be conducted.
Twelve men, provisioned and equipped for a year's campaign and provided
with wireless apparatus, were to be landed in Antarctica on the first
possible opportunity at what would constitute a main base. Thereafter,
proceeding westward, it was hoped that a second and a third party,
consisting of six and eight men respectively, would be successively
established on the continent at considerable distances apart. Of course
we were well aware of the difficulties of landing even one party, but,
as division of our forces would under normal conditions secure
more scientific data, it was deemed advisable to be prepared for
exceptionally favourable circumstances.
Macquarie Island, a busy station in the days of the early sealers,
had become almost neglected. Little accurate information was to be had
regarding it, and no reliable map existed. A few isolated facts had been
gathered of its geology, and the anomalous fauna and flora sui generis
had been but partially described. Its position, eight hundred and
fifty miles south-south-east of Hobart, gave promise of valuable
meteorological data relative to the atmospheric circulation of the
Southern Hemisphere and of vital interest to the shipping of Australia
and New Zealand.
As to the Antarctic sphere of work, it has been seen that very little
was known of the vast region which was our goal. It is sufficient to say
that almost every observation would be fresh material added to the sum
of human knowledge.
In addition to the work to be conducted from the land bases, it was
intended that oceanographic investigations should be carried on by
the 'Aurora' as far as funds would allow. With this object in view,
provision was made for the necessary apparatus which would enable the
ship's party to make extensive investigations of the ocean and its floor
over the broad belt between Australia and the Antarctic Continent. This
was an important branch of study, for science is just as much interested
in the greatest depths of the ocean as with the corresponding elevations
of the land. Indeed, at the present day, the former is perhaps the
greater field.
The scope of our intentions was regarded by some as over-ambitious, but
knowing
How far high failure overleaps the bound
Of low successes,
and seeing nothing impossible in these arrangements, we continued to
adhere to them as closely as possible, with what fortune remains to be
told.
To secure a suitable vessel was a matter of fundamental importance.
There was no question of having a ship built to our design, for the
requisite expenditure might well have exceeded the whole cost of our
Expedition. Accordingly the best obtainable vessel was purchased, and
modified to fulfil our requirements. Such craft are not to be had in
southern waters; they are only to be found engaged in Arctic whaling and
sealing.
The primary consideration in the design of a vessel built to navigate
amid the ice is that the hull be very staunch, capable of driving into
the pack and of resisting lateral pressure, if the ice should close in
around it.
So a thick-walled timber vessel, with adequate stiffening in the
framework, would meet the case. The construction being of wood imparts
a certain elasticity, which is of great advantage in easing the shock
of impacts with floating ice. As has been tragically illustrated in a
recent disaster, the ordinary steel ship would be ripped on its first
contact with the ice. Another device, to obviate the shock and to assist
in forging a way through the floe-ice, is to have the bow cut away below
the water-line. Thus, instead of presenting to the ice a vertical face,
which would immediately arrest the ship and possibly cause considerable
damage on account of the sudden stress of the blow, a sloping,
overhanging bow is adopted. This arrangement enables the bow to rise
over the impediment, with a gradual slackening of speed. The immense
weight put upon the ice crushes it and the ship settles down, moving
ahead and gathering speed to meet the next obstacle.
[TEXT ILLUSTRATION]
Plan and Section of S.Y. 'Aurora'
Of importance second only to a strong hull is the possession of sails in
addition to engines. The latter are a sine qua non in polar navigation,
whilst sails allow of economy in the consumption of coal, and always
remain as a last resort should the coal-supply be exhausted or the
propeller damaged.
The 'Aurora', of the Newfoundland sealing fleet, was ultimately
purchased and underwent necessary alterations. She was built in Dundee
in 1876, but though by no means young was still in good condition and
capable of buffeting with the pack for many a year. Also, she was not
without a history, for in the earlier days she was amongst those vessels
which hurried to the relief of the unfortunate Greely expedition.
The hull was made of stout oak planks, sheathed with greenheart and
lined with fir. The bow, fashioned on cutaway lines, was a mass of solid
wood, armoured with steel plates. The heavy side-frames were braced and
stiffened by two tiers of horizontal oak beams, upon which were built
the 'tween decks and the main deck. Three bulkheads isolated the
fore-peak, the main hold, the engine-room and the after living-quarters
respectively.
A hull of such strength would resist a heavy strain, and, should it
be subjected to lateral pressure, would in all probability rise out of
harm's way. However, to be quite certain of this and to ensure safety
in the most extreme case it is necessary that the hull be modelled after
the design adopted by Nansen in the 'Fram'.
The principal dimensions were, length one hundred and sixty-five feet,
breadth thirty feet, and depth eighteen feet.
The registered tonnage was three hundred and eighty-six, but the actual
carrying capacity we found to be about six hundred tons.
The engines, situated aft, were compound, supplied with steam from a
single boiler. The normal power registered was ninety-eight horse-power,
working a four-bladed propeller, driving it at the rate of sixty or
seventy revolutions per minute (six to ten knots per hour).
Steam was also laid on to a winch, aft, for handling cargo in the main
hold, and to a forward steam-windlass. The latter was mainly used for
raising the anchor and manipulating the deep-sea dredging-cable.
The ship was square on the foremast and schooner-rigged on the main and
mizen masts.
Between the engine-room bulkhead and the chain and sail locker was a
spacious hold. Six large steel tanks built into the bottom of the hold
served for the storage of fresh water and at any time when empty could
be filled with seawater, offering a ready means of securing emergency
ballast.
On the deck, just forward of the main hatch, was a deckhouse, comprising
cook's galley, steward's pantry and two laboratories. Still farther
forward was a small lamp-room for the storage of kerosene, lamps and
other necessaries. A lofty fo'c'sle-head gave much accommodation for
carpenters', shipwrights' and other stores. Below it, a capacious
fo'c'sle served as quarters for a crew of sixteen men.
Aft, the chart-room, captain's cabin and photographic dark-room formed
a block leading up to the bridge, situated immediately in front of the
funnel. Farther aft, behind the engine-room and below the poop deck, was
the ward-room(,) a central space sixteen feet by eight feet, filled by
the dining-table and surrounded by cabins with bunks for twenty persons.
From the time the 'Aurora' arrived in London to her departure from
Australia, she was a scene of busy activity, as alterations and
replacements were necessary to fit her for future work.
In the meantime, stores and gear were being assembled. Purchases were
made and valuable donations received both in Europe and Australia.
Many and varied were the requirements, and some idea of their great
multiplicity will be gained by referring to the appendices dealing with
stores, clothing and instruments.
Finally, reference may be made in this chapter to the staff. In no
department can a leader spend time more profitably than in the selection
of the men who are to accomplish the work. Even when the expedition has
a scientific basis, academic distinction becomes secondary in the choice
of men. Fiala, as a result of his Arctic experience, truly says, "Many
a man who is a jolly good fellow in congenial surroundings will become
impatient, selfish and mean when obliged to sacrifice his comfort,
curb his desires and work hard in what seems a losing fight. The first
consideration in the choice of men for a polar campaign should be the
moral quality. Next should come mental and physical powers."
For polar work the great desideratum is tempered youth. Although one man
at the age of fifty may be as strong physically as another at the age
of twenty, it is certain that the exceptional man of fifty was also an
exceptional man at twenty. On the average, after about thirty years
of age, the elasticity of the body to rise to the strain of emergency
diminishes, and, when forty years is reached, a man, medically speaking,
reaches his acme. After that, degeneration of the fabric of the
body slowly and maybe imperceptibly sets in. As the difficulties of
exploration in cold regions approximate to the limit of human endurance
and often enough exceed it, it is obvious that the above generalizations
must receive due weight.
But though age and with it the whole question of physical fitness must
ever receive primary regard, yet these alone in no wise fit a man for
such an undertaking. The qualifications of mental ability, acquaintance
with the work and sound moral quality have to be essentially borne in
mind. The man of fifty might then be placed on a higher plane than his
younger companion.
With regard to alcohol and tobacco, it may be maintained on theoretical
grounds that a man is better without them, but, on the other hand,
his behaviour in respect to such habits is often an index to his
self-control.
Perfection is attained when every man individually works with the
determination to sacrifice all personal predispositions to the welfare
of the whole.
Ours proved to be a very happy selection. The majority of the men chosen
as members of the land parties were young graduates of the Commonwealth
and New Zealand Universities, and almost all were representative of
Australasia. Among the exceptions was Mr. Frank Wild, who was appointed
leader of one of the Antarctic parties. Wild had distinguished himself
in the South on two previous occasions, and now is in the unique
position of being, as it were, the oldest resident of Antarctica. Our
sojourn together at Cape Royds with Shackleton had acquainted me with
Wild's high merits as an explorer and leader.
Lieutenant B. E. S. Ninnis of the Royal Fusiliers, Dr. X. Mertz, an
expert ski-runner and mountaineer, and Mr. F. H. Bickerton in charge of
the air-tractor sledge, were appointed in London. Reference has already
been made to Captain Davis: to him were left all arrangements regarding
the ship's complement.
A "Who's who" of the staff appears as an appendix.
CHAPTER II THE LAST DAYS AT HOBART AND THE VOYAGE TO MACQUARIE ISLAND
"Let us probe the silent places, let us seek what luck betide us;
Let us journey to a lonely land I know.
There's a whisper on the night-wind, there's a star agleam to
guide us.
And the Wild is calling, calling--Let us go."--SERVICE.
It will be convenient to pick up the thread of our story upon the point
of the arrival of the 'Aurora' in Hobart, after her long voyage from
London during the latter part of the year 1911.
Captain Davis had written from Cape Town stating that he expected to
reach Hobart on November 4. In company with Mr. C. C. Eitel, secretary
of the Expedition, I proceeded to Hobart, arriving on November 2.
Early in the morning of November 4 the Harbour Board received news that
a wooden vessel, barquentine-rigged, with a crow's-nest on the mainmast,
was steaming up the D'Entrecasteaux Channel. This left no doubt as
to her identity and so, later in the day, we joined Mr. Martelli, the
assistant harbour-master, and proceeded down the river, meeting the
'Aurora' below the quarantine ground.
We heard that they had had a very rough passage after leaving the Cape.
This was expected, for several liners, travelling by the same route,
and arriving in Australian waters a few days before, had reported
exceptionally heavy weather.
Before the ship had reached Queen's Wharf, the berth generously provided
by the Harbour Board, the Greenland dogs were transferred to the
quarantine ground, and with them went Dr. Mertz and Lieutenant Ninnis,
who gave up all their time during the stay in Hobart to the care of
those important animals. A feeling of relief spread over the whole
ship's company as the last dog passed over the side, for travelling
with a deck cargo of dogs is not the most enviable thing from a sailor's
point of view. Especially is this the case in a sailing-vessel
where room is limited, and consequently dogs and ropes are mixed
indiscriminately.
Evening was just coming on when we reached the wharf, and, as we ranged
alongside, the Premier, Sir Elliot Lewis, came on board and bade us
welcome to Tasmania.
Captain Davis had much to tell, for more than four months had elapsed
since my departure from London, when he had been left in charge of the
ship and of the final arrangements.
At the docks there had been delays and difficulties in the execution of
the necessary alterations to the ship, in consequence of strikes and the
Coronation festivities. It was so urgent to reach Australia in time for
the ensuing Antarctic summer, that the recaulking of the decks and
other improvements were postponed, to be executed on the voyage or upon
arrival in Australia.
Captain Davis seized the earliest possible opportunity of departure, and
the 'Aurora' dropped down the Thames at midnight on July 27, 1911. As
she threaded her way through the crowded traffic by the dim light of a
thousand flickering flames gleaming through the foggy atmosphere, the
dogs entered a protest peculiar to their "husky" kind. After a short
preliminary excursion through a considerable range of the scale, they
picked up a note apparently suitable to all and settled down to many
hours of incessant and monotonous howling, as is the custom of these
dogs when the fit takes them. It was quite evident that they were not
looking forward to another sea voyage. The pandemonium made it all
but impossible to hear the orders given for working the ship, and a
collision was narrowly averted. During those rare lulls, when the dogs'
repertoire temporarily gave out, innumerable sailors on neighbouring
craft, wakened from their sleep, made the most of such opportunities to
hurl imprecations in a thoroughly nautical fashion upon the ship, her
officers, and each and every one of the crew.
On the way to Cardiff, where a full supply of coal was to be shipped, a
gale was encountered, and much water came on board, resulting in damage
to the stores. Some water leaked into the living quarters and, on the
whole, several very uncomfortable days were spent. Such inconvenience
at the outset undoubtedly did good, for many of the crew, evidently not
prepared for emergency conditions, left at Cardiff. The scratch crew
with which the 'Aurora'journeyed to Hobart composed for the most part of
replacements made at Cardiff, resulted in some permanent appointments of
unexpected value to the Expedition.
At Cardiff the coal strike caused delay, but eventually some five
hundred tons of the Crown Fuel Company's briquettes were got on board,
and a final leave taken of English shores on August 4.
Cape Town, the only intermediate port of call, was reached on September
24, after a comparatively rapid and uneventful voyage. A couple of days
sufficed to load coal, water and fresh provisions, and the course was
then laid for Hobart.
Rough weather soon intervened, and Lieutenant Ninnis and Dr. Mertz, who
travelled out by the 'Aurora' in charge of the sledging-dogs, had their
time fully occupied, for the wet conditions began to tell on their
charges.
On leaving London there were forty-nine of these Greenland, Esquimaux
sledging-dogs of which the purchase and selection had been made through
the offices of the Danish Geographical Society. From Greenland they
were taken to Copenhagen, and from thence transhipped to London, where
Messrs. Spratt took charge of them at their dog-farm until the date of
departure. During the voyage they were fed on the finest dog-cakes, but
they undoubtedly felt the need of fresh meat and fish to withstand the
cold and wet. In the rough weather of the latter part of the voyage
water broke continually over the deck, so lowering their vitality that a
number died from seizures, not properly understood at the time. In each
case death was sudden, and preceded by similar symptoms. An apparently
healthy dog would drop down in a fit, dying in a few minutes, or
during another fit within a few days. Epidemics, accompanied by similar
symptoms, are said to be common amongst these dogs in the Arctic
regions, but no explanation is given as to the nature of the disease.
During a later stage of the Expedition, when nearing Antarctica, several
more of the dogs were similarly stricken. These were examined by Drs.
McLean and Jones, and the results of post-mortems showed that in one
case death was due to gangrenous appendicitis, in two others to acute
gastritis and colitis.
The dog first affected caused some consternation amongst the crew, for,
after being prostrated on the deck by a fit, it rose and rushed about
snapping to right and left. The cry of "mad dog" was raised. Not
many seconds had elapsed before all the deck hands were safely in the
rigging, displaying more than ordinary agility in the act. At short
intervals, other men, roused from watch below appeared at the fo'c'sle
companion-way. To these the situation at first appeared comic, and
called forth jeers upon their faint-hearted shipmates. The next moment,
on the dog dashing into view, they found a common cause with their
fellows and sprang aloft. Ere many minutes had elapsed the entire crew
were in the rigging, much to the amusement of the officers. By this time
the dog had disappeared beneath the fo'c'sle head, and Mertz and Ninnis
entered, intending to dispatch it. A shot was fired and word passed that
the deed was done: thereupon the crew descended, pressing forward to
share in the laurels. Then it was that Ninnis, in the uncertain light,
spying a dog of similar markings wedged in between some barrels, was
filled with doubt and called out to Mertz that he had shot the wrong
dog. In a flash the crew had once more climbed to safety. It was some
time after the confirmation of the first execution that they could be
prevailed upon to descend.
Several litters of puppies were born on the voyage, but all except one
succumbed to the hardships of the passage.
The voyage from Cardiff to Hobart occupied eighty-eight days.
The date of departure south was fixed for 4 P.M. of Saturday, December
2, and a truly appalling amount of work had to be done before then.
Most of the staff had been preparing themselves for special duties; in
this the Expedition was assisted by many friends.
A complete, detailed acknowledgment of all the kind help received would
occupy much space. We must needs pass on with the assurance that our
best thanks are extended to one and all.
Throughout the month of November, the staff continued to arrive in
contingents at Hobart, immediately busying themselves in their own
departments, and in sorting over the many thousands of packages in the
great Queen's Wharf shed. Wild was placed in charge, and all entered
heartily into the work. The exertion of it was just what was wanted to
make us fit, and prepared for the sudden and arduous work of discharging
cargo at the various bases. It also gave the opportunity of personally
gauging certain qualities of the men, which are not usually evoked by a
university curriculum.
Some five thousand two hundred packages were in the shed, to be sorted
over and checked. The requirements of three Antarctic bases, and one
at Macquarie Island were being provided for, and consequently the most
careful supervision was necessary to prevent mistakes, especially as the
omission of a single article might fundamentally affect the work of a
whole party. To assist in discriminating the impedimenta, coloured bands
were painted round the packages, distinctive of the various bases.
It had been arranged that, wherever possible, everything should
be packed in cases of a handy size, to facilitate unloading and
transportation; each about fifty to seventy pounds in weight.
In addition to other distinguishing marks, every package bore a
different number, and the detailed contents were listed in a schedule
for reference.
Concurrently with the progress of this work, the ship was again
overhauled, repairs effected, and many deficiencies made good. The
labours of the shipwrights did not interfere with the loading, which
went ahead steadily during the last fortnight in November.
The tanks in the hold not used for our supply of fresh water were packed
with reserve stores for the ship. The remainder of the lower hold and
the bunkers were filled with coal. Slowly the contents of the shed
diminished as they were transfered to the 'tween decks. Then came the
overflow. Eventually, every available space in the ship was flooded
with a complicated assemblage of gear, ranging from the comparatively
undamageable wireless masts occupying a portion of the deck amidships,
to a selection of prime Australian cheeses which filled one of the
cabins, and pervaded the ward-room with an odour which remained one of
its permanent associations.
Yet, heterogeneous and ill-assorted as our cargo may have appeared to
the crowds of curious onlookers, Captain Davis had arranged for the
stowage of everything with a nicety which did him credit. The complete
effects of the four bases were thus kept separate, and available in
whatever order was required. Furthermore, the removal of one unit would
not break the stowage of the remainder, nor disturb the trim of the
ship.
At a late date the air-tractor sledge arrived. The body was contained in
one huge case which, though awkward, was comparatively light, the case
weighing much more than the contents. This was securely lashed above the
maindeck, resting on the fo'c'sle and two boat-skids.
As erroneous ideas have been circulated regarding the "aeroplane
sledge," or more correctly "air-tractor sledge," a few words in
explanation will not be out of place.
This machine was originally an R.E.P. monoplane, constructed by Messrs.
Vickers and Co., but supplied with a special detachable, sledge-runner
undercarriage for use in the Antarctic, converting it into a tractor for
hauling sledges. It was intended that so far as its role as a flier
was concerned, it would be chiefly exercised for the purpose of drawing
public attention to the Expedition in Australia, where aviation was then
almost unknown. With this object in view, it arrived in Adelaide at an
early date accompanied by the aviator, Lieutenant Watkins, assisted by
Bickerton. There it unfortunately came to grief, and Watkins and Wild
narrowly escaped death in the accident. It was then decided to make no
attempt to fly in the Antarctic; the wings were left in Australia and
Lieutenant Watkins returned to England. In the meantime, the machine was
repaired and forwarded to Hobart.
Air-tractors are great consumers of petrol of the highest quality. This
demand, in addition to the requirements of two wireless plants and a
motor-launch, made it necessary to take larger quantities than we liked
of this dangerous cargo. Four thousand gallons of "Shell" benzine and
one thousand three hundred gallons of "Shell" kerosene, packed in
the usual four-gallon export tins, were carried as a deck cargo,
monopolizing the whole of the poop-deck.
For the transport of the requirements of the Macquarie Island Base,
the s.s. 'Toroa', a small steam-packet of one hundred and twenty tons,
trading between Melbourne and Tasmanian ports, was chartered. It was
arranged that this auxiliary should leave Hobart several days after the
'Aurora', so as to allow us time, before her arrival, to inspect the
island, and to select a suitable spot for the location of the base. As
she was well provided with passenger accommodation, it was arranged that
the majority of the land party should journey by her as far as Macquarie
Island.
The Governor of Tasmania, Sir Harry Barron, the Premier, Sir Elliot
Lewis, and the citizens of Hobart extended to us the greatest
hospitality during our stay, and, when the time came, gave us a hearty
send-off.
Saturday, December 2 arrived, and final preparations were made. All the
staff were united for the space of an hour at luncheon. Then began the
final leave-taking. "God speed" messages were received from far and
wide, and intercessory services were held in the Cathedrals of Sydney
and Hobart.
We were greatly honoured at this time by the reception of kind wishes
from Queen Alexandra and, at an earlier date, from his Majesty the King.
Proud of such universal sympathy and interest, we felt stimulated to
greater exertions.
On arrival on board, I found Mr. Martelli, who was to pilot us down the
river, already on the bridge. A vast crowd blockaded the wharf to give
us a parting cheer.
At 4 P.M. sharp, the telegraph was rung for the engines, and, with a
final expression of good wishes from the Governor and Lady Barron, we
glided out into the channel, where our supply of dynamite and cartridges
was taken on board. Captain G. S. Nares, whose kindness we had
previously known, had the H.M.S. 'Fantome' dressed in our honour, and
lusty cheering reached us from across the water.
As we proceeded down the river to the Quarantine Station where the dogs
were to be taken off, Hobart looked its best, with the glancing sails of
pleasure craft skimming near the foreshores, and backed by the stately,
sombre mass of Mount Wellington. The "land of strawberries and cream",
as the younger members of the Expedition had come to regard it, was for
ever to live pleasantly in our memories, to be recalled a thousand times
during the adventurous months which followed. Mr. E. Joyce, whose name
is familiar in connexion with previous Antarctic expeditions, and who
had travelled out from London on business of the Expedition, was waiting
in mid-stream with thirty-eight dogs, delivering them from a ketch.
These were passed over the side and secured at intervals on top of the
deck cargo.
The engines again began to throb, not to cease until the arrival at
Macquarie Island. A few miles lower down the channel, the Premier, and
a number of other friends and well-wishers who had followed in a small
steamer, bade us a final adieu.
Behind lay a sparkling seascape and the Tasmanian littoral; before,
the blue southern ocean heaving with an ominous swell. A glance at the
barograph showed a continuous fall, and a telegram from Mr. Hunt, Head
of the Commonwealth Weather Bureau, received a few hours previously,
informed us of a storm-centre south of New Zealand, and the expectation
of fresh south-westerly winds.
The piles of loose gear presented an indescribable scene of chaos, and,
even as we rolled lazily in the increasing swell, the water commenced
to run about the decks. There was no time to be lost in securing movable
articles and preparing the ship for heavy weather. All hands set to
work.
On the main deck the cargo was brought up flush with the top of the
bulwarks, and consisted of the wireless masts, two huts, a large
motor-launch, cases of dog biscuits and many other sundries. Butter to
the extent of a couple of tons was accommodated chiefly on the roof of
the main deck-house, where it was out of the way of the dogs. The roof
of the chart-house, which formed an extension of the bridge proper,
did not escape, for the railing offered facilities for lashing sledges;
besides, there was room for tide-gauges, meteorological screens, and
cases of fresh eggs and apples. Somebody happened to think of space
unoccupied in the meteorological screens, and a few fowls were housed
therein.
On the poop-deck there were the benzine, sledges, and the chief magnetic
observatory. An agglomeration of instruments and private gear rendered
the ward-room well nigh impossible of access, and it was some days
before everything was jammed away into corners. An unoccupied five-berth
cabin was filled with loose instruments, while other packages were
stowed into the occupied cabins, so as to almost defeat the purpose for
which they were intended.
The deck was so encumbered that only at rare intervals was it visible.
However, by our united efforts everything was well secured by 8 P.M.
It was dusk, and the distant highlands were limned in silhouette against
the twilight sky. A tiny, sparkling lamp glimmered from Signal Hill its
warm farewell. From the swaying poop we flashed back, "Good-bye, all
snug on board."
Onward with a dogged plunge our laden ship would press. If 'Fram' were
"Forward," _she_ was to be hereafter our 'Aurora' of "Hope"--the Dawn of
undiscovered lands.
Home and the past were effaced in the shroud of darkness, and thought
leapt to the beckoning South--the "land of the midnight sun."
During the night the wind and sea rose steadily, developing into a full
gale. In order to make Macquarie Island, it was important not to allow
the ship to drive too far to the east, as at all times the prevailing
winds in this region are from the west. Partly on this account, and
partly because of the extreme severity of the gale, the ship was hove
to with head to wind, wallowing in mountainous seas. Such a storm,
witnessed from a large vessel, would be an inspiring sight, but was
doubly so in a small craft, especially where the natural buoyancy had
been largely impaired by overloading. With an unprecedented quantity of
deck cargo, amongst which were six thousand gallons of benzine, kerosene
and spirit, in tins which were none too strong, we might well have been
excused a lively anxiety during those days. It seemed as if no power on
earth could save the loss of at least part of the deck cargo. Would it
be the indispensable huts amidships, or would a sea break on the benzine
aft and flood us with inflammable liquid and gas?
By dint of strenuous efforts and good seamanship, Captain Davis with
his officers and crew held their own. The land parties assisted in the
general work, constantly tightening up the lashings and lending "beef,"
a sailor's term for man-power, wherever required. For this purpose the
members of the land parties were divided into watches, so that there
were always a number patrolling the decks.
Most of us passed through a stage of sea-sickness, but, except in the
case of two or three, it soon passed off. Seas deluged all parts of the
ship. A quantity of ashes was carried down into the bilge-water pump and
obstructed the steam-pump. Whilst this was being cleared, the emergency
deck pumps had to be requisitioned. The latter were available for
working either by hand-power or by chain-gearing from the after-winch.
The deck-plug of one of the fresh-water tanks was carried away and,
before it was noticed, sea-water had entered to such an extent as to
render our supply unfit for drinking. Thus we were, henceforth, on a
strictly limited water ration.
The wind increased from bad to worse, and great seas continued to rise
until their culmination on the morning of December 5, when one came
aboard on the starboard quarter, smashed half the bridge and carried
it away. Toucher was the officer on watch, and no doubt thought himself
lucky in being, at the time, on the other half of the bridge.
The deck-rings holding the motor-launch drew, the launch itself was
sprung and its decking stove-in.
On the morning of December 8 we found ourselves in latitude 49 degrees
56 minutes S. and longitude 152 degrees 28' E., with the weather so far
abated that we were able to steer a course for Macquarie Island.
During the heavy weather, food had been prepared only with the greatest
difficulty. The galley was deluged time and again. It was enough to
dishearten any cook, repeatedly finding himself amongst kitchen debris
of all kinds, including pots and pans full and empty. Nor did the
difficulties end in the galley, for food which survived until its
arrival on the table, though not allowed much time for further mishap,
often ended in a disagreeable mass on the floor or, tossed by a lurch
of more than usual suddenness, entered an adjoining cabin. From such
localities the elusive piece de resistance was often rescued.
As we approached our rendezvous, whale-birds** appeared. During the
heavy weather, Mother Carey's chickens only were seen, but, as the wind
abated, the majestic wandering albatross, the sooty albatross and the
mollymawk followed in our wake.
** For the specific names refer to Appendix which is a glossary of
special and unfamiliar terms.
Whales were observed spouting, but at too great a distance to be
definitely recognized.
At daybreak on December 11 land began to show up, and by 6 A.M. we were
some sixteen miles off the west coast of Macquarie Island, bearing on
about the centre of its length.
In general shape it is long and narrow, the length over all being
twenty-one miles. A reef runs out for several miles at both extremities
of the main island, reappearing again some miles beyond in isolated
rocky islets: the Bishop and Clerk nineteen miles to the southward and
the Judge and Clerk eight miles to the north.
The land everywhere rises abruptly from the sea or from an exaggerated
beach to an undulating plateau-like interior, reaching a maximum
elevation of one thousand four hundred and twenty-five feet. Nowhere
is there a harbour in the proper sense of the word, though six or seven
anchorages are recognized.
The island is situated in about 55 degrees S. latitude, and the climate
is comparatively cold, but it is the prevalence of strong winds that is
the least desirable feature of its weather.
Sealing, so prosperous in the early days, is now carried on in a small
way only, by a New Zealander, who keeps a few men stationed at the
island during part of the year for the purpose of rendering down sea
elephant and penguin blubber. Their establishment was known to be at the
north end of the island near the best of the anchorages.
Captain Davis had visited the island in the 'Nimrod', and was acquainted
with the three anchorages, which are all on the east side and sheltered
from the prevailing westerlies. One of the old-time sealers had reported
a cove suitable for small craft at the south-western corner, but the
information was scanty, and recent mariners had avoided that side of
the island. On the morning of our approach the breeze was from the
south-east, and, being favourable, Captain Davis proposed a visit.
By noon, Caroline Cove, as it is called, was abreast of us. Its small
dimensions, and the fact that a rocky islet for the most part blocks the
entrance, at first caused some misgivings as to its identity.
A boat was lowered, and a party of us rowed in towards the entrance,
sounding at intervals to ascertain whether the 'Aurora' could make use
of it, should our inspection prove it a suitable locality for the land
station.
We passed through a channel not more than eighty yards wide, but with
deep water almost to the rocks on either side. A beautiful inlet now
opened to view. Thick tussock-grass matted the steep hillsides, and the
rocky shores, between the tide-marks as well as in the depths below,
sprouted with a profuse growth of brown kelp. Leaping out of the water
in scores around us were penguins of several varieties, in their actions
reminding us of nothing so much as shoals of fish chased by sharks.
Penguins were in thousands on the uprising cliffs, and from rookeries
near and far came an incessant din. At intervals along the shore sea
elephants disported their ungainly masses in the sunlight. Circling
above us in anxious haste, sea-birds of many varieties gave warning
of our near approach to their nests. It was the invasion by man of an
exquisite scene of primitive nature.
[TEXT ILLUSTRATION]
Macquarie Island
After the severe weather experienced, the relaxation made us all feel
like a band of schoolboys out on a long vacation.
A small sandy beach barred the inlet, and the whaleboat was directed
towards it. We were soon grating on the sand amidst an army of Royal
penguins; picturesque little fellows, with a crest and eyebrows of
long golden-yellow feathers. A few yards from the massed ranks of the
penguins was a mottled sea-leopard, which woke up and slid into the sea
as we approached.
Several hours were spent examining the neighbourhood. Webb and Kennedy
took a set of magnetic observations, while others hoisted some cases of
stores on to a rocky knob to form a provision depot, as it was quickly
decided that the northern end of the island was likely to be more
suitable for a permanent station.
The Royal penguins were almost as petulant as the Adelie penguins which
we were to meet further South. They surrounded us, pecked at our
legs and chattered with an audacity which defies description. It was
discovered that they resented any attempt to drive them into the sea,
and it was only after long persuasion that a bevy took to the water.
This was a sign of a general capitulation, and some hundreds immediately
followed, jostling each other in their haste, squawking, whirring their
flippers, splashing and churning the water, reminding one of a crowd of
miniature surf-bathers. We followed the files of birds marching inland,
along the course of a tumbling stream, until at an elevation of some
five hundred feet, on a flattish piece of ground, a huge rookery opened
out--acres and acres of birds and eggs.
In one corner of the bay were nests of giant petrels in which sat
huge downy young, about the size of a barn-door fowl, resembling
the grotesque, fluffy toys which might be expected to hang on a
Christmas-tree.
Here and there on the beach and on the grass wandered bright-coloured
Maori hens. On the south side of the bay, in a low, peaty area overgrown
with tussock-grass, were scores of sea elephants, wallowing in bog-holes
or sleeping at their ease.
Sea elephants, at one time found in immense numbers on all sub-antarctic
islands, are now comparatively rare, even to the degree of extinction,
in many of their old haunts. This is the result of ruthless slaughter
prosecuted especially bY sealers in the early days. At the present time
Macquarie Island is more favoured by them than probably any other known
locality. The name by which they are popularly known refers to their
elephantine proportions and to the fact that, in the case of the old
males, the nasal regions are enormously developed, expanding when in
a state of excitement to form a short, trunk-like appendage. They have
been recorded up to twenty feet in length, and such a specimen would
weigh about four tons.
Arriving on the 'Aurora' in the evening, we learnt that the ship's
company had had an adventure which might have been most serious. It
appeared that after dropping us at the entrance to Caroline Cove,
the ship was allowed to drift out to sea under the influence of the
off-shore wind. When about one-third of a mile north-west of the
entrance, a violent shock was felt, and she slid over a rock which rose
up out of deep water to within about fourteen feet of high-water level;
no sign of it appearing on the surface on account of the tranquil state
of the sea. Much apprehension was felt for the hull, but as no serious
leak started, the escape was considered a fortunate one. A few soundings
had been made proving a depth of four hundred fathoms within one and a
half miles of the land.
A course was now set for the northern end of the island.
Dangerous-looking reefs ran out from many headlands, and cascades of
water could be seen falling hundreds of feet from the highlands to the
narrow coastal flats.
The anchorage most used is that known as North-East Bay, lying on the
eastern side of a low spit joining the main mass of the island, to an
almost isolated outpost in the form of a flat-topped hill--Wireless
Hill--some three-quarters of a mile farther north. It is practically an
open roadstead, but, as the prevailing winds blow on to the other side
of the island, quiet water can be nearly always expected.
However, when we arrived at North-East Bay on the morning following our
adventure; a stiff south-east breeze was blowing, and the wash on the
beach put landing out of the question. Captain Davis ran in as near
the coast as he could safely venture and dropped anchor, pending the
moderation of the wind.
On the leeward slopes of a low ridge, pushing itself out on to the
southern extremity of the spit, could be seen two small huts, but
no sign of human life. This was not surprising as it was only seven
o'clock. Below the huts, upon low surf-covered rocks running out from
the beach, lay a small schooner partly broken up and evidently a recent
victim. A mile to the southward, fragments of another wreck protruded
from the sand.
We were discussing wrecks and the grisly toll which is levied by these
dangerous and uncharted shores, when a human figure appeared in front of
one of the huts. After surveying us for a moment, he disappeared within
to reappear shortly afterwards, followed by a stream of others rushing
hither and thither; just as if he had disturbed a hornets' nest. After
such an exciting demonstration we awaited the next move with some
expectancy.
Planks and barrels were brought on to the beach and a flagstaff was
hoisted. Then one of the party mounted on the barrel, and told us by
flag signals that the ship on the beach was the 'Clyde', which had
recently been wrecked, and that all hands were safely on shore, but
requiring assistance. Besides the shipwrecked crew, there were half a
dozen men who resided on the island during the summer months for the
purpose of collecting blubber.
The sealers tried repeatedly to come out to us, but as often as it was
launched their boat was washed up again on the beach, capsizing them
into the water. At length they signalled that a landing could be made
on the opposite side of the spit, so the anchor was raised and the
ship steamed round the north end of the island, to what Captain Davis
proposed should be named Hasselborough Bay, in recognition of the
discoverer of the island. This proved an admirable anchorage, for the
wind remained from the east and south-east during the greater part of
our stay.
The sealers pushed their boat across the spit, and, launching it in
calmer water, came out to us, meeting the 'Aurora' some three miles off
the land. The anchor was let go about one mile and a half from the head
of the bay.
News was exchanged with the sealers. It appeared that there had been
much speculation as to what sort of a craft we were; visits of ships,
other than those sent down specially to convey their oil to New Zealand,
being practically unknown. For a while they suspected the 'Aurora' of
being an alien sealer, and had prepared to defend their rights to the
local fishery.
All was well now, however, and information and assistance were freely
volunteered. They were greatly relieved to hear that our auxiliary
vessel, the 'Toroa' was expected immediately, and would be available for
taking the ship-wrecked crew back to civilization.
Owing to the loss of the 'Clyde', a large shipment of oil in barrels lay
piled upon the beach with every prospect of destruction, just at a time
when the realization of its value would be most desirable, to make good
the loss sustained by the wreck. I decided, therefore, in view of their
hospitality, to make arrangements with the captain of the 'Toroa' to
take back a load of the oil, upon terms only sufficient to recoup us for
the extension of the charter.
In company with Ainsworth, Hannam and others, I went ashore to select
a site for the station. As strong westerly winds were to be expected
during the greater part of the year, it was necessary to erect
buildings in the lee of substantial break-winds. Several sites for a hut
convenient to a serviceable landing-place were inspected at the north
end of the beach. The hut was eventually erected in the lee of a large
mass of rock, rising out of the grass-covered sandy flat at the north
end of the spit.
It would have been much handier in every way, both in assembling the
engines and masts and subsequently in operating the wireless station,
had the wireless plant been erected on the beach adjacent to the
living-hut. On the other hand, a position on top of the hill had the
advantage of a free outlook and of increased electrical potential,
allowing of a shorter length of mast. In addition the ground in this
situation proved to be peaty and sodden, and therefore a good conductor,
thus presenting an excellent "earth" from the wireless standpoint. In
short, the advantages of the hill-site outweighed its disadvantages.
Of the latter the most obvious was the difficult transportation of
the heavy masts, petrol-engine, dynamo, induction-generator and other
miscellaneous gear, from the beach to the summit--a vertical height of
three hundred feet.
To facilitate this latter work the sealers placed at our disposal a
"flying fox" which ran from sea-level to the top of Wireless Hill, and
which they had erected for the carriage of blubber. On inspecting it,
Wild reported that it was serviceable, but would first require to be
strengthened. He immediately set about effecting this with the help of a
party.
Hurley now discovered that he had accidentally left one of his
cinematograph lenses on a rock where he had been working in Caroline
Cove. As it was indispensable, and there was little prospect of the
weather allowing of another visit by the ship, it was decided that
he should go on a journey overland to recover it. One of the sealers,
Hutchinson by name, who had been to Caroline Cove and knew the best
route to take, kindly volunteered to accompany Hurley. The party was
eventually increased by the addition of Harrisson, who was to keep a
look-out for matters of biological interest. They started off at noon on
December 13.
Although the greater part of the stores for the Macquarie Island party
were to arrive by the Toroa there were a few tons on board the 'Aurora'.
These and the dogs were landed as quickly as possible. How glad the poor
animals were to be once more on solid earth! It was out of the question
to let them loose, so they were tethered at intervals along a heavy
cable, anchored at both ends amongst the tussock-grass. Ninnis took up
his abode in the sealers' hut so that he might the better look after
their wants, which centred chiefly on sea elephant meat, and that in
large quantities. Webb joined Ninnis, as he intended to take full sets
of magnetic observations at several stations in the vicinity.
Bickerton and Gillies got the motor-launch into good working order,
and by means of it the rest of us conveyed ashore several tons of coal
briquettes, the benzine, kerosene, instruments and the wireless masts,
by noon on December 13.
Everything but the requirements of the wireless station was landed
on the spit, as near the north-east corner as the surf would allow.
Fortunately, reefs ran out from the shore at intervals, and calmer water
could be found in their lee. All gear for the wireless station was taken
to a spot about half a mile to the north-west at the foot of Wireless
Hill, where the "flying fox" was situated. Just at that spot there was
a landing-place at the head of a charming little boat harbour, formed by
numerous kelp-covered rocky reefs rising at intervals above the level of
high water. These broke the swell, so that in most weathers calm water
was assured at the landing-place.
This boat harbour was a fascinating spot. The western side was peopled
by a rookery of blue-eyed cormorants; scattered nests of white gulls
relieved the sombre appearance of the reefs on the opposite side: whilst
gentoo penguins in numbers were busy hatching their eggs on the sloping
ground beyond. Skua-gulls and giant petrels were perched here and there
amongst the rocks, watching for an opportunity of marauding the nests of
the non-predacious birds. Sea elephants raised their massive, dripping
heads in shoal and channel. The dark reefs, running out into the
pellucid water, supported a vast growth of a snake-like form of kelp,
whose octopus-like tentacles, many yards in length, writhed yellow
and brown to the swing of the surge, and gave the foreground an
indescribable weirdness. I stood looking out to sea from here one
evening, soon after sunset, the launch lazily rolling in the swell, and
the 'Aurora' in the offing, while the rich tints of the afterglow paled
in the south-west.
I envied Wild and his party, whose occupation in connexion with the
"flying fox" kept them permanently camped at this spot.
The 'Toroa' made her appearance on the afternoon of December 13, and
came to anchor about half a mile inside the 'Aurora'. Her departure had
been delayed by the bad weather. Leaving Hobart late on December 7, she
had anchored off Bruni Island awaiting the moderation of the sea. The
journey was resumed on the morning of the 9th, and the passage made in
fine weather. She proved a handy craft for work of the kind, and Captain
Holliman, the master, was well used to the dangers of uncharted coastal
waters.
Within a few minutes of her arrival, a five-ton motor-boat of shallow
draught was launched and unloading commenced.
Those of the staff arriving by the 'Toroa' were housed ashore with the
sealers, as, when everybody was on board, the 'Aurora' was uncomfortably
congested. Fifty sheep were taken on shore to feed on the rank grass
until our departure. A large part of the cargo consisted of coal for the
'Aurora'. This was already partly bagged, and in that form was loaded
into the launches and whale-boats; the former towing the latter to their
destination. Thus a continuous stream of coal and stores was passing
from ship to ship, and from the ships to the several landing-places on
shore. As soon as the after-hold on the 'Toroa' was cleared, barrels
of sea elephant oil were brought off in rafts and loaded aft,
simultaneously with the unloading forward.
We kept at the work as long as possible--about sixteen hours a day
including a short interval for lunch. There were twenty-five of the
land party available for general work, and with some assistance from the
ship's crew the work went forward at a rapid rate.
On the morning of the 15th, after giving final instructions to Eitel,
who had come thus far and was returning as arranged, the 'Toroa' weighed
anchor and we parted with a cheer.
The transportation of the wireless equipment to the top of the hill
had been going on simultaneously with the un-loading of the ships. Now,
however, all were able to concentrate upon it, and the work went forward
very rapidly.
All the wireless instruments, and much of the other paraphernalia of
the Macquarie Island party had been packed in the barrels, as it was
expected that they would have to be rafted ashore through the surf.
Fortunately, the weather continued to "hold" from an easterly direction,
and everything was able to be landed in the comparatively calm waters
of Hasselborough Bay; a circumstance which the islanders assured us was
quite a rare thing. The wireless masts were rafted ashore. These were of
oregon pine, each composed of four sections.
Digging the pits for bedding the heavy, wooden "dead men," and erecting
the wireless masts, the engine-hut and the operating-hut provided
plenty of work for all. Here was as busy a scene as one could witness
anywhere--some with the picks and shovels, others with hammers and
nails, sailors splicing ropes and fitting masts, and a stream of men
hauling the loads up from the sea-shore to their destination on the
summit.
Some details of the working of the "flying fox" will be of interest. The
distance between the lower and upper terminals was some eight hundred
feet. This was spanned by two steel-wire carrying cables, secured above
by "dead men" sunk in the soil, and below by a turn around a huge rock
which outcropped amongst the tussock-grass on the flat, some fifty yards
from the head of the boat harbour. For hauling up the loads, a thin wire
line, with a pulley-block at either extremity, rolling one on each of
the carrying wires, passed round a snatch-block at the upper station. It
was of such a length that when the loading end was at the lower station,
the counterpoise end was in position to descend at the other. Thus a
freight was dispatched to the top of the hill by filling a bag, acting
as counterpoise, with earth, until slightly in excess of the weight of
the top load; then off it would start gathering speed as it went.
Several devices were developed for arresting the pace as the freight
neared the end of its journey, but accidents were always liable to occur
if the counterpoise were unduly loaded. Wild was injured by one of these
brake-devices, which consisted of a bar of iron lying on the ground
about thirty yards in front of the terminus, and attached by a rope with
a loose-running noose to the down-carrying wire. On the arrival of the
counterpoise at that point on the wire, its speed would be checked owing
to the drag exerted. On the occasion referred to, the rope was struck
with such velocity that the iron bar was jerked into the air and struck
Wild a solid blow on the thigh. Though incapacitated for a few days, he
continued to supervise at the lower terminal.
The larger sections of the wireless masts gave the greatest trouble,
as they were not only heavy but awkward. A special arrangement was
necessary for all loads exceeding one hundredweight, as the single
wire carrier-cables were not sufficiently strong. In such cases both
carrier-cables were lashed together making a single support, the hauling
being done by a straight pull on the top of the hill. The hauling was
carried out to the accompaniment of chanties, and these helped to
relieve the strain of the Work. It was a familiar sight to see a string
of twenty men on the hauling-line scaring the skua-gulls with popular
choruses like "A' roving" and "Ho, boys, pull her along." In calm
weather the parties at either terminal could communicate by shouting but
were much assisted by megaphones improvised from a pair of leggings.
Considering the heavy weights handled and the speed at which the work
was done, we were fortunate in suffering only one breakage, and that
might have been more serious than it proved. The mishap in question
occurred to the generator. In order to lighten the load, the rotor had
been taken out. When almost at the summit of the hill, the ascending
weight, causing the carrying-wires to sag unusually low, struck a rock,
unhitched the lashing and fell, striking the steep rubble slope, to
go bounding in great leaps out amongst the grass to the flat below.
Marvellous to relate, it was found to have suffered no damage other than
a double fracture of the end-plate casting, which could be repaired. And
so it was decided to exchange the generators in the two equipments, as
there would be greater facilities for engineering work at the Main Base,
Adelie Land. Fortunately, the other generator was almost at the top of
the ship's hold, and therefore accessible. The three pieces into which
the casting had been broken were found to be sprung, and would not
fit together. However, after our arrival at Adelie Land, Hannam
found, curiously enough, that the pieces fitted into place
perfectly--apparently an effect of contraction due to the cold--and with
the aid of a few plates and belts the generator was made as serviceable
as ever.
In the meantime, Hurley, Harrisson, and the sealer, Hutchinson, had
returned from their trip to Caroline Cove, after a most interesting
though arduous journey. They had camped the first evening at The
Nuggets, a rocky point on the east coast some four miles to the south of
North-East Bay. From The Nuggets, the trail struck inland up the
steep hillsides until the summit of the island was reached; then over
pebble-strewn, undulating ground with occasional small lakes, arriving
at the west coast near its southern extremity. Owing to rain and fog
they overshot the mark and had to spend the night close to a bay at the
south-end. There Hurley obtained some good photographs of sea elephants
and of the penguin rookeries.
The next morning, December 15, they set off again, this time finding
Caroline Cove without further difficulty. Harrisson remained on the brow
of the hill overlooking the cove, and there captured some prions and
their eggs. Hurley and his companion found the lost lens and returned to
Harrisson securing a fine albatross on the way. This solitary bird
was descried sitting on the hill side, several hundreds of feet above
sea-level. Its plumage was in such good condition that they could not
resist the impulse to secure it for our collection, for the moment not
considering the enormous weight to be carried. They had neither firearms
nor an Ancient Mariner's cross-bow, and no stones were to be had in the
vicinity--when the resourceful Hurley suddenly bethought himself of a
small tin of meat in his haversack, and, with a fortunate throw, hit the
bird on the head, killing the majestic creature on the spot.