[Illustration: Plate 1.
Repton Church.]
REPTON
AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD:
A DESCRIPTIVE GUIDE OF
THE ARCHÆOLOGY, &c., OF THE DISTRICT.
_Illustrated by Photogravures, &c._
BY
F. C. HIPKINS, M.A., F.S.A.,
ASSISTANT MASTER AT REPTON SCHOOL.
SECOND EDITION.
A. J. LAWRENCE, PRINTER, REPTON.
MDCCCXCIX.
REPTON:
A. J. LAWRENCE, PRINTER.
PREFACE.
In the year 1892, I ventured to write, for Reptonians, a short History
of Repton, its quick sale emboldened me to set about obtaining materials
for a second edition. The list of Authors, &c., consulted (printed at
the end of this preface), will enable any one, who wishes to do so, to
investigate the various events further, or to prove the truth of the
facts recorded. Round the Church, Priory, and School centre all that is
interesting, and, naturally, they occupy nearly all the pages of this
second attempt to supply all the information possible to those who live
in, or visit our old world village, whose church, &c., might well have
served the poet Gray as the subject of his Elegy.
“Beneath those rugged Elms, that Yew-tree’s shade,
Where heaves the Turf in many a mould’ring Heap,
Each in his narrow Cell for ever laid,
The rude Forefathers of the Hamlet sleep.”
In writing the history of Repton certain events stand out more
prominently than others, _e. g._, the Conversion of Mercia by Diuma,
its first bishop, and his assistant missionaries, Adda, Betti, and
Cedda, the brother of St. Chad: the Founding of the Monastery during
the reign of Peada or his brother Wulphere (A.D. 655-675): the coming
of the Danes in 874, and the destruction of the Abbey and town by them:
the first building of Repton Church, probably during the reign of Edgar
the Peaceable, A.D. 957: the Founding of the Priory by Maud, Countess of
Chester, about the year 1150, its dissolution in 1538, its destruction
in 1553, and the Founding of the School in 1557. Interwoven with these
events are others which have been recorded in the Chronicles, Histories,
Registers, &c., consulted, quoted, and used to produce as interesting an
account as possible of those events, which extend over a period of nearly
twelve hundred and fifty years!
The hand of time, and man, especially the latter, has gradually destroyed
anything ancient, and “restorations” have completely changed the aspect
of the village. The Church, Priory, Hall, and “Cross,” still serve as
links between the centuries, but, excepting these, only one old house
remains, in Well Lane, bearing initials “T.S.” and date “1686.”
Even the Village Cross was restored! Down to the year 1806, the shaft
was square, with square capital, in which an iron cross was fixed. In
Bigsby’s History of Repton, (p. 261), there is a drawing of it, and an
account of its restoration, by the Rev. R. R. Rawlins.
During the last fifteen years the old house which stood at the corner,
(adjoining Mr. Cattley’s house,) in which the “_Court Leet_” was
held, and the “round-house” at the back of the Post Office, with its
octagonal-shaped walls and roof, and oak door, studded with iron nails,
have also been destroyed.
The consequence is that the History of Repton is chiefly concerned with
ancient and mediæval times.
The Chapters on the Neighbourhood of Repton have been added in the hope
that they may prove useful to those who may wish to make expeditions to
the towns and villages mentioned. More might have been included, and more
written about them, the great difficulty was to curtail both, and at
the same time make an interesting, and intelligible record of the chief
points of interest in the places described.
In conclusion, I wish to return thanks to those who by their advice, and
information have helped me, especially the Rev. J. Charles Cox, LL.D.,
Author of “Derbyshire Churches,” &c., J. T. Irvine, Esq., and Messrs.
John Thompson and Sons who most kindly supplied me with plans of Crypt,
and Church, made during the restorations of 1885-6.
For the many beautiful photographs, my best thanks are due to Miss M. H.
Barham, W. B. Hawkins, Esq., and C. B. Hutchinson, Esq., and others.
BOOKS, ETC., CONSULTED OR QUOTED.
Anglo-Saxon Chronicle, (Rolls Series).
Bassano, Francis. Church Notes, (1710).
Bede, Venerable. Ecclesiastical History.
Bigsby, Rev. Robert. History of Repton, (1854).
Birch, W. de Gray. Memorials of St. Guthlac.
Browne, (Right Rev. Bishop of Bristol). Conversion of the Heptarchy.
Cox, Rev. J. Charles. Churches of Derbyshire.
Derbyshire Archæological Journal, (1879-98).
Eckenstein, Miss Lina. Women under Monasticism.
Diocesan Histories, (S.P.C.K).
Dugdale. Monasticon.
Evesham, Chronicles of, (Rolls Series).
Gentleman’s Magazine.
Glover, S. History of Derbyshire, (1829).
Green, J. R. Making of England.
Ingulph. History.
Leland. Collectanea.
Lingard. Anglo-Saxon Church.
Lysons. Magna Britannia, (Derbyshire), (1817).
Paris, Matthew. Chronicles, (Rolls Series).
Pilkington, J. “A View of the Present State of Derbyshire,” (1789).
Repton Church Registers.
Repton School Register.
Searle, W. G. Onomasticon Anglo-Saxonicum.
Stebbing Shaw. History of Staffordshire.
” ” Topographer.
Tanner. Notitia Monastica.
CONTENTS.
_page_
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS ix
CHAPTER I.
Repton (General) 1
CHAPTER II.
Repton (Historical)—The place-name Repton, &c. 6
CHAPTER III.
Repton’s Saints (Guthlac and Wystan) 11
CHAPTER IV.
Repton Church 17
CHAPTER V.
Repton Church Registers 25
CHAPTER VI.
Repton’s Merry Bells 42
CHAPTER VII.
The Priory 50
CHAPTER VIII.
Repton School 61
CHAPTER IX.
Repton School _v._ Gilbert Thacker 65
CHAPTER X.
Repton Tile-Kiln 71
CHAPTER XI.
Repton School Tercentenary and Founding of the School Chapel, &c. 75
CHAPTER XII.
School Houses, &c. 81
CHAPTER XIII.
Chief Events referred to, or described 87
CHAPTER XIV.
THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF REPTON. 91
Ashby-de-la-Zouch 92
Barrow, Swarkeston, and Stanton-by-Bridge 99
Bretby and Hartshorn 104
Egginton, Stretton, and Tutbury 108
Etwall and its Hospital 115
Foremark and Anchor Church 121
Melbourne and Breedon 124
Mickle-Over, Finderne, and Potlac 127
Newton Solney 130
Tickenhall, Calke, and Staunton Harold 132
INDEX 137
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
_Plate_
1. Repton Church _frontispiece_
2. Prior Overton’s Tower _to face page_ 1
3. Repton Church Crypt ” 17
4. Repton Camp and Church ” 22
5. Plans of Church and Priory ” 25
6. Bell Marks ” 46
7. Repton Priory ” 51
8. Sir John Porte and Gilbert Thacker ” 54
9. The Outer Arch of Gate House ” 61
10. Repton School Chapel and Mr. Exham’s House ” 75
11. The Hall and Porter’s Lodge ” 81
12. Pears Memorial Hall Window ” 83
13. Mr. Cattley’s, Mr. Forman’s and Mr. Gould’s Houses ” 85
14. Mr. Estridge’s and Mr. Gurney’s Houses ” 86
15. Cricket Pavilion, Pears Memorial Hall, &c. ” 90
16. Ashby Castle and Staunton Harold Church ” 93
17. Barrow Church and Swarkeston House ” 99
18. Anchor Church and Bretby Hall ” 104
19. Egginton Church and Willington Church ” 109
20. Etwall Church and Hospital ” 115
21. Breedon Church and Melbourne Church ” 125
22. Tickenhall Round House ” 136
CORRIGENDA.
Page 12. _For_ Eaburgh _read_ Eadburgh.
” 14. ” Ggga ” Egga.
” 74. ” Solwey ” Solney.
” 96. ” Grindley ” Grinling.
” 99. ” preceptary ” preceptory.
” 111. ” now ” father of the.
” 115. ” Bumaston ” Burnaston.
Transcriber’s Note: These corrections have been made to the text.
[Illustration: Plate 2.
Repton Hall. (Prior Overton’s Tower, page 81.)]
CHAPTER I.
REPTON (GENERAL).
Repton is a village in the County of Derby, four miles east of
Burton-on-Trent, seven miles south-west of Derby, and gives its name to
the deanery, and with Gresley, forms the hundred, or division, to which
it belongs.
The original settlers showed their wisdom when they selected the site: on
the north flowed “the smug and silver Trent,” providing them with water;
whilst on the south, forests, which then, no doubt, extended in unbroken
line from Sherwood to Charnwood, provided fuel; and, lying between, a
belt of green pasturage provided fodder for cattle and sheep. The hand
of time and man, has nearly destroyed the forests, leaving them such in
name alone, and the remains of forests and pasturage have been “annexed.”
Repton _Common_ still remains in name, in 1766 it was enclosed by Act of
Parliament, and it and the woods round are no longer “common.”
Excavations made in the Churchyard, and in the field to the west of it,
have laid bare many foundations, and portions of Anglo-Saxon buildings,
such as head-stones of doorways and windows, which prove that the site
of the ancient Monastery, and perhaps the town, was on that part of the
village now occupied by church, churchyard, vicarage and grounds, and was
protected by the River Trent, a branch of which then, no doubt, flowed
at the foot of its rocky bank. At some time unknown, the course of the
river was interfered with. Somewhere, above or about the present bridge
at Willington, the river divided into two streams, one flowing as it does
now, the other, by a very sinuous course, crossed the fields and flowed
by the town, and so on till it rejoined the Trent above Twyford Ferry.
Traces of this bed can be seen in the fields, and there are still three
wide pools left which lie in the course of what is now called the “Old
Trent.”
There is an old tradition that this alteration was made by Hotspur. In
Shakespeare’s play of _Henry IV. Act III._ Hotspur, Worcester, Mortimer,
and Glendower, are at the house of the Archdeacon at Bangor. A map of
England and Wales is before them, which the Archdeacon has divided into
three parts. Mortimer is made to say:
“England, from Trent to Severn hitherto,
By south and east is to my part assign’d:
All westward, Wales beyond the Severn shore,
And all the fertile land within that bound,
To Owen Glendower; and dear Coz, to you
The remnant northward, lying off from Trent.”
The “dear Coz” Hotspur, evidently displeased with his share, replies,
pointing to the map;—
“Methinks my moiety, north from Burton here,
In quantity equals not one of yours:
See how this river comes me cranking in,
And cuts me from the best of all my land,
A huge half moon, a monstrous cantle out.
_I’ll have the current in this place damm’d up;_
_And here the smug and silver Trent shall run_
_In a new channel fair and evenly:_
_It shall not wind with such a deep indent,_
_To rob me of so rich a bottom here.”_
Whether this passage refers to the alteration of the course of the
Trent at Repton, or not, we cannot say, but that it was altered is an
undoubted fact. The dam can be traced just below the bridge, and on
the Parish Map, the junction of the two is marked. Pilkington in his
History of Derbyshire refers to “eight acres of land _in an island
betwixt Repton and Willington_” as belonging to the Canons of Repton
Priory. They are still known as the Canons’ Meadows. On this “island” is
a curious parallelogram of raised earth, which is _supposed to be_ the
remains of a Roman Camp, called Repandunum by Stebbing-Shaw, O.R., the
Historian of Staffordshire, but he gives no proofs for the assertion.
Since the “Itineraries” neither mention nor mark it, its original makers
must remain doubtful until excavations have been made on the spot. Its
dimensions are, North side, 75 yards, 1 foot, South side, 68 yards, 1
foot, East side, 52 yards, 1 foot, West side, 54 yards, 2 feet. Within
the four embankments are two rounded mounds, and parallel with the South
side are two inner ramparts, only one parallel with the North. It is
supposed by some to be “a sacred area surrounding tumuli.” The local
name for it is “The Buries.” In my opinion it was raised and used by the
Danes, who in A.D. 874 visited Repton, and destroyed it before they left
in A.D. 875.
Before the Conquest the Manor of Repton belonged to Algar, Earl of
Mercia. In Domesday Book it is described as belonging to him and the
King, having a church and two priests, and two mills. It soon after
belonged to the Earls of Chester, one of whom, Randulph de Blundeville,
died in the year 1153. His widow, Matilda, with the consent of her son
Hugh, founded Repton Priory.
In Lysons’ _Magna Britannia_, we read, “The Capital Messuage of Repingdon
was taken into the King’s (Henry III.) hands in 1253.” Afterwards it
appears to have passed through many hands, John de Britannia, William de
Clinton, Philip de Strelley, John Fynderne, etc., etc. In the reign of
Henry IV., John Fynderne “was seised of an estate called the Manor of
Repingdon _alias_ Strelley’s part,” from whom it descended through George
Fynderne to Jane Fynderne, who married Sir Richard Harpur, Judge of the
Common Pleas, whose tomb is in the mortuary chapel of the Harpurs in
Swarkeston Church. Round the alabaster slab of the tomb on which lie the
effigies of Sir Richard and his wife, is the following inscription, “Here
under were buryed the bodyes of Richard Harpur, one of the Justicies of
the Comen Benche at Westminster, and Jane his wife, sister and heyer unto
Thomas Fynderne of Fynderne, Esquyer. Cogita Mori.” Since the dissolution
of the Priory there have been two Manors of Repton, Repton Manor and
Repton Priory Manor.
From Sir Richard Harpur the Manor of Repton descended to the present
Baronet, Sir Vauncey Harpur-Crewe. Sir Henry Harpur, by royal license,
assumed the name and arms of Crewe, in the year 1800.
The Manor of Repton Priory passed into the hands of the Thackers at the
dissolution of the Priory, and remained in that family till the year
1728, when Mary Thacker devised it, and other estates, to Sir Robert
Burdett of Foremark, Bart.
The Village consists of two main streets, which meet at the Cross.
Starting from the Church, in a southerly direction, one extends for
about a mile, towards Bretby. The other, coming from Burton-on-Trent,
proceeds in an easterly direction, through “Brook End,” towards Milton,
and Tickenhall, &c. The road from Willington was made in 1839, when it
and the bridge were completed, and opened to the public. A swift stream,
rising in the Pistern Hills, six miles to the south, runs through a broad
valley, and used to turn four corn mills, (two of which are mentioned
in Domesday Book,) now only two are worked, one at Bretby, the other
at Repton. The first, called Glover’s Mill, about a mile above Bretby,
has the names of many of the Millers, who used to own or work it, cut,
apparently, by their own hands, in the stone of which it is built.
The last mill was the Priory Mill, and stood on the east side of the
Priory, the arch, through which the mill-race ran, is still _in situ_,
it was blocked, and the stream diverted to its present course, by Sir
John Harpur in the year 1606. On the left bank of this stream, on the
higher ground of the valley, the village has been built; no attempt at
anything like uniformity of design, in shape or size, has been made,
each owner and builder erected, house or cottage, according to his own
idea or desire; these, with gardens and orchards, impart an air of
quaint beauty to our village, whose inhabitants for centuries have been
engaged, chiefly, in agriculture. In the old Parish registers some of its
inhabitants are described as “websters,” and “tanners,” but, owing to
the growth of the trade in better situated towns, these trades gradually
ceased.
During the Civil War the inhabitants of Repton and neighbourhood remained
loyal and faithful to King Charles I. In 1642 Sir John Gell, commander of
the Parliamentary forces stormed Bretby House, and in January, 1643, the
inhabitants of Repton, and other parishes, sent a letter of remonstrance
to the Mayor and Corporation of Derby, owing to the plundering excursions
of soldiers under Sir John’s command. In the same year, Sir John Harpur’s
house, at Swarkeston, was stormed and taken by Sir John Gell.
In 1687 a wonderful skeleton, nine feet long! was discovered in a field,
called Allen’s Close, adjoining the churchyard of Repton, now part of the
Vicarage grounds. The skeleton was in a stone coffin, with others to the
number of one hundred arranged round it! During the year 1787 the grave
was reopened, and a confused heap of bones was discovered, which were
covered over with earth, and a sycamore tree, which is still flourishing,
was planted to mark the spot.
During the present century few changes have been made in the village;
most of them will be found recorded, either under chief events in the
History of Repton, or in the chapters succeeding.