CHAPTER IV

THE MATERIAL

When we consider the materials, we realise that the art of make-up is

more or less allied to the art of the painter; although the kinship may

not be of a very intimate character. It resembles in many particulars

coloured statuary, with this great difference, that in the case of the

actor the statue is alive.

If the student were to have a bust of himself accurately modelled by a

sculptor and were to apply the various articles of make-up to it, he

would get almost precisely the same effects that he would get from his

own face, minus, of course, the ability to change its expression.

I have such a bust, and I find that I can do much of my experimenting

upon my dumb counterpart without either its skin or temper ever

resenting the torture. Though I do not think that many will care to

follow my example in this particular I offer the suggestion as being of

some value.

Among the men who paint pictures you rarely find two who use exactly

similar materials, or work in precisely similar ways, in fact methods

of work and the tools used depend largely upon individual differences

of temperament. So in the following pages I trust that it may be felt

that I am suggesting in a more or less stimulating way, and that I am

not dogmatising.

If we again compare it with painting we shall find that we get the most

valuable hints from that branch which is known as the impressionist

school.

The enormous size of the proscenium, which is really only the frame of

our canvas, and the distance which is ever between the spectator and

the stage, demand great breadth of treatment.

I have known an actor to strive for almost the same delicacy of detail

as would be found in a highly finished portrait, and although the

illusion from the front of the house was not positively wrong, much

of his work was never realised; in fact with one quarter the effort

he could have produced a result which would have been infinitely more

telling.

Doubtless many who read this book will have had a wide experience in

making up, and will have cultivated preferences for one selection of

materials or another. To them I submit my method and its results. To

the man who comes to the subject with an absolutely unbiassed mind,

I would suggest that he begin his work with a very limited range of

colours, for in this way he will materially simplify the problem.

The following is a list of the grease-paints that may be purchased from

any dealer in make-up:

No. 1, lightest flesh colour; 1-1/2, slightly darker; 2, pale; 2-1/2,

medium; 3, slightly darker; 3-1/2, sunburnt; 4, a ruddy deep flesh

colour; 5, bright yellow; 5-1/2, dark; 6, darker yellow; 7, brown; 8,

Armenian bole; 9, dark sunburn; 10, brown; 11, burnt umber; 12, black;

13, reddish brown; 14, chocolate; 15, brick red; 16, dark brown; 20,

white; carmine 1, 2 and 3.

Of these the colours that prove most valuable in my hands are 2-1/2, 3,

10-13, yellow, white and black, and the following lining sticks; light

blue, dark blue, yellow, lake brown, and carmine 2.

I never use any one of these colours in its crude state, but by

blending produce the exact shade that I deem desirable.

The palm of the left hand proves an admirable palette; its heat readily

melting the paint.

A draughtsman's stub may be used for putting in the wrinkles and

softening the shadows, but I have found the most suitable instrument

for this work is a small modelling tool such as is used for modelling

in wax. It has one end slightly curved and then brought to a knife-like

edge. It is not only valuable for applying colours, but enables one to

deftly finish the shaping of nose-paste.

A small quantity of nose-paste, or, what I have found work better,

toupee paste, will be required. A bottle of spirit gum for applying

false beards and moustaches. Crepe hair of various colours. Powders I

mix for myself that I may get a tint to match any given make-up. The

foundation of this is of a light pink to which I add a little Armenian

bole and yellow. Powders, however, of various hues may be bought

which will save the trouble of mixing. A good powder puff, a box of

dry rouge, a hare's-foot, a pair of scissors and a comb. Vaseline,

cold-cream, cocoa butter, or my preference, olive oil, for removing the

make-up will complete the outfit.

Various elaborate make-up boxes of tin are on the market, but any small

box will answer. The one that always accompanies me on my travels is

an antique case of oak, and was no doubt used for generations as a

receptacle for jewels. It has but one tray, which has sufficient space

for the reception of the various paints. The lower part is reserved for

crepe hair, powder and the other requisites.

The Art of Theatrical Make-up · 第 4 / 9 章