stone, built by Vaughan, in the time of King Henry VIII., as a kind of
presbytery, between the choir and Lady Chapel. In the last, whose roof,
as well as those of the aisles of the choir and transepts, has been down
ever since the civil war, are monuments of three bishops, and in the
nave, &c. four or five more. In the north wall of the choir is the
shrine of St. David; a kind of altar tomb, with a canopy of four pointed
arches, and in front four quatrefoil holes, into which the votaries put
their offerings, which were taken out by the monks at two iron doors
behind. In the choir are also the monuments of Owen Tudor, second
husband of Queen Catharine, Rhys ap Tudor, {91a} Bishops Jorweth and
Anselm, in the thirteenth century, and Edmund, Earl of Richmond, father
of King Henry VII. This last monument is said to have prevented King
Henry VIII. from removing the see to Caermarthen. Giraldus Cambrensis,
who was archdeacon of Brecon, canon of Hereford, and rector of
Chesterton, Oxford, was buried here in 1213. {91b} On the north side of
the church are some walls of St. Mary’s College, founded by Bishop
Houghton, and John of Gaunt, in 1365, valued at one hundred and six
pounds per annum. {91c}
It is much to be regretted, that so little regard has been paid to the
internal appearance of this noble pile; the whole of it has lately been
white-washed, which gives it too much the air of a modern building: the
external part, I am sorry to add, has been equally neglected; and the
chapels and monuments exposed to the wanton mischief of boys and idle
people. The stone, likewise, with which it is built, is of so soft a
substance, that it even moulders with the touch of the finger; but
possibly it may, by being exposed to the air, like the Bath stone, become
more solid; and, when by time it shall have acquired a darker hue, may
then better correspond with the original building.
The Bishop’s Palace now stands a monument of desolation; and as we walked
over the loose fragments of stone, which are scattered through the
immense area of the fabric, the images of former times rose to
reflection,—when the spacious hall stood proudly in its original
splendor; when the long aisles of the chapel were only responsive to the
solemn, slow-breathed chant. In this palace is a very long room,
purposely erected for the reception of King John: at the extremity of it
is a circular window, of very elegant and curious workmanship.
According to Le Neve, Dubritius, Archbishop of Caerleon, is called by
this title, as Archbishop of Wales, at the first establishment of the
Christian religion in the British islands. Godwin fixes no time of his
coming in, but only says, that he, waxing old, resigned his see to David,
a disciple of his; that he died, and was buried in the isle of Bardsee,
Nov. 14, 522.
David removed the see, as before stated, from Caerleon to Menevia; and,
by the time Godwin allows him to sit, viz. sixty-five years, and to die
in 642, we may suppose he came in in 577. It is said he lived to a great
age, viz. 146 years; and, dying in 642, as is aforesaid, was buried in
the cathedral which himself had caused to be built; and his successors
shewed so great a respect to his memory, as to call the see by his name,
which it still retains, they for a long time afterwards styling
themselves Archbishops of St. David’s; of these (including David) there
were twenty-five, with Sampson, who, by reason of a contagious sickness
in his diocese, retiring into Bretagne, and taking his pall with him, his
successors, either for want of that, or by some other occasion, lost
their title of Archbishop; but yet for several years they held the
archiepiscopal power of consecrating bishops, which was exercised under
twenty-two of them, down to Bishop Bernard, who was consecrated in 1115.
He, by command of King Henry I., resigned this power to the see of
Canterbury. From this period, down to the time of Bishop Vaughan, it had
many benefactors; amongst whom, as most prominent, stand the names of
Peter de Leia, Bishops Gervase, Beck, Martin, Gower, and Vaughan.
“During this interval,” says Mr. Rees, “St. David’s acquired the highest
celebrity; and the shrine of the founder was resorted to by the greatest
monarchs of the age. In the list of these royal visitors are to be
included the names of William the Conqueror, who made his pilgrimage in
1079; King Henry the Second, who honoured Bishop David Fitzgerald with
his company in 1171; and King Edward the First, and Eleanor his queen,
who made their pilgrimage in 1284, when Bishop Beck held the see. The
pilgrims of inferior rank who resorted here were innumerable, and their
offerings served greatly to enrich the ecclesiastics, who spared no pains
to enhance the merit of the penance, by which the poor votaries thus
soothed their consciences, and emptied their pockets.” {94}
Giraldus gives us a true description of the country round St. David’s,
representing it as “a stony, barren, unimprovable territory, undecked
with woods, undivided by rivers, unadorned with meadows, exposed only to
wind and storm.” Such, indeed, is the state and situation of St.
David’s; and, the environs having no hedges to divide the property of the
farmers, the sheep, and even the geese, are all tethered together.
In this now dilapidated city was born Asserius, Bishop of Sherbourne, who
wrote a life of King Alfred, and is supposed to have been instrumental in
inducing that Prince to found the University of Oxford.
The walk to St. David’s Head, though barren, represents a view striking
and awful; sublimity gives place to elegance: yet what is it to view?—a
boundless waste of ocean;—not a glimpse of smiling nature,—not a patch of
vegetation, to relieve the aching sight, or vary the objects of
admiration. The rocks on this shore are shaken into every possible shape
of horror; and, in many parts, resemble the convulsions of an earthquake,
splintered, shivered, and amassed. On these rocks stood the famous
rocking stone, or _Y mean sigl_; which, “though twenty yoke of oxen could
not move it, might be shaken with the slightest touch.” We understand it
was thrown off its balance, by order of the farmer, to prevent the
curious from trampling on his grounds. “A mile straight west from St.
David’s, betwixt Portclais and Porthmaur,” {95} is the shell of Capel
Stinen, St. Stinan’s or St. Justinian’s chapel.
From this spot is an extensive view of Whitsand Bay, called by the Welsh
_Porth Maur_, or the Great Bay; in which stand the six rocks, called the
Bishop and his Clerks. Half a league from hence is
RAMSEY ISLE,
half a mile long, and three quarters broad, and divided into two
considerable farms. The whole island is well stocked with rabbits; and,
during the spring, the Razorbill, Puffin, and Harry birds, resort here in
flocks. It has undergone many changes from the continual wearing of the
waves. There is a tradition, that the embarkation for Ireland anciently
took place at Ramsey; but sailors doubt the truth of this circumstance,
from the circumstances of the tides. Our walk from St. David’s to
FISHGUARD
afforded us little room for observation; the eye, however, kept in view a
wide range of the unbounded ocean; till, dim with exertion, it by degrees
reposed on the dark lowering rocks, which, disregarding the angry roar of
the waves, seemed to project their broad sides, to augment the idle
tumult. Quitting the turnpike road, in search of the place where the
French effected their landing, in the year 1797, we passed a neat house,
called Caergwent, belonging to Mrs. Harris. The kind attentions of a
farmer, in the neighbourhood of this memorable spot, claim our warmest
acknowledgments. Having finished a most comfortable meal at Mr.
Mortimer’s house (which, during the confusion, was considered the
head-quarters of the French, commanded by General Tate), he explained all
the minutiæ respecting this circumstance; and very obligingly pointed out
the situation of their camp, and related many entertaining and
interesting anecdotes. Deeply impressed with gratitude towards Mr. M.
for his civilities, we soon arrived at Goodric sands. This spot was very
judiciously selected by Lord Cawdor, as a proper place for the French to
lay down their arms; for, had they resisted, a cannonade of grape-shot,
from a neighbouring fortress, would have instantly played upon them.
Fishguard stands on a steep rock, with a convenient harbour, formed by
the river Gwain; though its situation and bay are interesting, it is by
no means a desirable place to remain long at.
Several druidical monuments {96} engaged our attention, as we drew near
NEWPORT,
called by Giraldus, Llanhever, or the Town on the river Nevern. The
fragments of the castle are too insignificant to invite the curiosity of
the passing traveller: it was demolished by Llewellyn, Prince of South
Wales, when possessed by the Flemings.
The country beyond Newport presented a more pleasing countenance: wood,
water, hill, and vale, all unite, even to induce the plodding citizen to
pause, and wish to spend the evening of his days in the vicinity of its
enchantment. In this interesting situation we found the village of
Velindre:—we here particularly observed the slaty quality of the hills,
and could not avoid condemning the folly of the inhabitants of Velindre
in building their cottages of mud, and sparingly covering them with
straw, when Nature herself seemed to place comforts, if not luxuries,
before their view. But, perhaps, these reproaches were ill-grounded; for
thus veiled in obscurity, they were happy, as they knew not enough of the
world seriously to regret the want of these conveniences: their
situation, indeed, seemed to verify the philosophical sentiment of Gray:
“Since ignorance is bliss,
’Tis folly to be wise.”
For though they suffer the extremes of filth and penury, yet they enjoy
the two inestimable blessings, health and felicity. The broken towers of
KILGERRAN CASTLE
soon attracted our notice. The relics of this ruin stand on a point of
rock, impending over the river Tyvi, whose beauty time had only impaired
to heighten its grandeur. Two imperfect circular towers, and the
fragments of a wall, now only remain.
The river Tyvi, I imagine, abounds with fish, as we observed at every
door in the village of Kilgerran a coracle. {98} The construction of
this little water conveyance is remarkably simple, and intended solely
for the use of fishing: a thick skin, or coarse pitched canvas, is
stretched over wicker-work. This singular fishing-boat conveys only one
man, who manages it with the greatest adroitness imaginable; the right
hand being employed in using the paddle, the left in conducting the net,
and the teeth in holding the line. Two coracles generally co-operate, to
assist each other in fishing: they usually measure about five feet long,
and four broad, and are rounded at the corners; and, after the labours of
the day, are conveyed on their backs to the little cots of the fishermen,
being looked upon as a necessary appendage to the cottage door.
Description can scarcely suggest the full magnificence and beauty of the
saunter from hence to Cardigan: the valley, about two miles in extent,
seemed to possess all that nature inherits; sloping hills, two hundred
feet high, covered with wood, from the water’s edge to their highest
summit, and at the most acceptable distances, and truly happy situations,
interrupted by a bold, naked, and projecting rock; whilst the broad and
translucid stream of the Tyvi reflects, as in a mirror, the blackness of
the impending shades. The retrospect commands the romantic ruins of
Kilgerran castle, whose mutilated walls close this delicious landscape.
The whole valley bears a strong resemblance to the situation of the
celebrated Piercefield. As this spot is entirely lost by keeping the
turnpike road, it is advisable for travellers in general, to hire a boat
from Cardigan to Kilgerran: this our humble and less encumbered mode of
travelling rendered unnecessary.
Near Kilgerran are Castle Maelgyn, and Pentre, the seat of Dr. Davies;
both handsome modern mansions, surrounded by pleasing gardens and
plantations.
At Lechryd, not far from Kilgerran, extensive tin-works are carried on by
Sir Benjamin Hamet. Having already examined works of this nature at
Neath, we preferred the romantic vale of Kilgerran; as to accomplish both
would have occupied too much time. We entered the town of
CARDIGAN
over a handsome stone bridge, built over the Tyvi, which is here of
considerable width. In front of this stands, on a steep eminence, the
castle, consisting chiefly of its outer walls, which prove it to have
been once a considerable building. This place, considered the principal
town of the county, is called by the Britons Aberteivi; which name it
receives from standing near the mouth of the river Tyvi. It was
fortified, together with the castle, by Gilbert, son of Richard Clare,
and demolished by Rhees ap Gryffith.
Cardigan had once a strong castle; but it was destroyed in the civil
wars, and an elegant mansion erected on its site by Mr. Bowen: the
cellars of which were anciently the dungeons of the keep. At the end of
the bridge is a chapel, said to be erected on the spot where Giraldus
preached the Crusade.
The town is large and regular; its chief trade consisting in lead,
exported to Ireland. It sends one member to Parliament, and gives the
title of Earl to the family of Brudenell. The Church is large, and well
built, with a handsome tower. The new gaol, finished in the year 1797,
is conveniently situated, and appears to be a well-planned building. One
mile from Cardigan is
ST. DOGMAEL’S ABBEY,
called, by Leland, {101} a “Priory of Bonhommes.” The Monasticon places
this house amongst the Benedictines; but it was that strict and reformed
sort of Benedictines, called the Order of Tiron, founded by Martin of
Tours, who conquered the country of Cemmeis, about the time of King
William the Conqueror. Part of the ruins is now converted into a chapel,
for the convenience of the vicinity. St. Dogmael’s is now a mere fishing
village.
At the second mile-stone, in our road from Cardigan to the village of
LLANARTH,
we halted a short time, to take a retrospect of the country we had
passed. From this spot, the town and castle of Cardigan, standing on an
eminence, in the centre of a broad valley, and encircled with hills,
beautifully introduced themselves to our view. From hence to
ABERAERON,
grand sea prospects continued to enliven our route;—whilst the faint and
still fainter hues of the coast of Ireland appeared just visibly skirting
the distant horizon. Aberaeron is situated in a vale, near the conflux
of the river Aeron with the sea: from whence it receives its name; Aber
signifying the mouth of any thing.
The entrenchment, mentioned by Sael, in his Collection of Tours, about a
mile from Aberaeron, is now almost washed away by daily encroachments of
the sea. We lamented that the druidical sepulchral monuments, mentioned
by the same author, were inadvertently passed unnoticed by us.
In this day’s journey we still continued to indulge the sublime emotions,
which an unconfined view of the ocean always inspires; a serene day, with
partial gleams of sunshine, gave magical effects to the scenery; and the
sea was enlivened with many a vessel, passing each other in various
directions, and contributing to render the terrific ocean beautiful.
Before us, the towering mountains of Merionethshire glittered in all
those colours of beauty, which constitute the sublime; and we appeared
only to climb one hill to view others still rising in endless
perspective: over the whole was diffused the rich glow of evening; and
the distant mountains were variegated by the parting tinge of lingering
day. A neat Church, backed by romantic hills, animated the village of
Llanrysted. Three miles from
ABERYSTWITH,
we paused at Llanryan bridge, to admire the rich banks rising on each
side of the river Ystwith, over which this bridge is thrown; it is built
in the style of the celebrated Pont-y-prid, in the vale of
Glamorganshire. We entered the town of Aberystwith over a temporary
wooden bridge. {102} In the year 1796, a stone bridge experienced the
same fate with many others in Wales, occasioned by a sudden thaw: Mr.
Edwards, from Dolgelly, has lately erected another, by contract,
consisting of six arches.
Aberystwith, partaking much of the dirt of seaports in general, is
situated at the termination of the vale of Rhyddol, in the bay of
Cardigan, and open to St. George’s Channel. The environs are stony and
rugged; the coast affords indifferent bathing, being much exposed; and
the shore is rough and unpleasant. In fine, it is, in almost all
respects, the reverse of Tenby, except it has the advantage in the number
of houses, and, consequently, more company. At the extremity of the
town, upon an eminence, stand the ruins of an ancient castle, of which
little now remains but a solitary tower, overlooking a wide expanse of
sea. It was rendered famous, by being, at one time, the residence of the
great Cadwalader, and in all the Welsh wars was considered as a fortress
of great strength: it was built by Gilbert Strongbow, in the year 1107,
and rebuilt by King Edward I. in 1277, a few years before his complete
conquest of Wales. The ruin of the castle now affords a pleasant walk.
At this castle Edmund Goodere, Esq. farmer of the mines royal in the
county of Cardigan, had letters patent, 13th of Charles I., to erect a
mint for coinage of such silver as was raised from the said mines royal
in Wales; but the castle and houses for the mint were destroyed by the
civil war. On the 6th of March, 1646, on his petition to this effect,
the smelting house, near the refining mills, was appropriated by
Parliament to this purpose, till the castle should be refitted.
But what formerly rendered this town more considerable, were the rich
lead mines in its vicinity. These mines are said to have yielded near a
hundred ounces of silver from a ton of lead, and to have produced a
profit of two thousand pounds a month. Sir Hugh Middleton here made the
vast fortune, which he afterwards expended on the New River, constructed
for the purpose of supplying the northern side of London with water. But
Thomas Bushell raised these mines to their greatest height: an indenture
was granted to him by King Charles I. for the coining of silver pieces,
to be stamped with ostrich feathers on both sides, for the benefit of
paying his workmen. This gentleman was afterwards appointed governor of
Lundy Isle. The most considerable lead mine was that of
Bwlch-yr-Eskir-his, discovered in the year 1690. The ore was here so
near the surface, that the moss and grass in some places scarcely covered
it. {104}
Close to the site of the old castle, Mr. Uvedale Price, of Foxley, in
Herefordshire, has erected a fantastic house in the castellated form,
intended merely as a summer residence.
Aberystwith has of late years been in all respects greatly improved; for
being the principal place of summer resort for bathing and pleasure from
North Wales and the adjacent English counties, every inducement has been
held forth that could attract company from its new competitors: the roads
are now good, and the inns and accommodations excellent. The population
consists of 2,397 persons.
The bathing is well conducted, and although the beach, as at most of our
watering places, is formed of pebbles, still there are generally good
sands to bathe on at all hours of the tide. During the season assemblies
are held here as at Brighton, Ramsgate, and other English sea-bathing
places. Formerly, the town-hall likewise served as a theatre, but
another building has now been erected for that purpose. Notwithstanding
Aberystwith is prevented by the sand bar at the entrance from receiving
vessels of large tonnage, still its trade is considerable and increasing,
carried on by vessels from 250 tons burthen down to 18.
Mr. Meyrick’s remarks with respect to this port are perfectly correct.
“Were two piers made on those ridges of the rock called the Wey, which
afford the strongest foundations, the harbour would be handsome,
capacious, and convenient. Besides, by cutting a passage across the road
to the north of the town, and carrying it along the marsh into the sea,
for the Rhyddol, just at the angle it makes when it takes a south-west
course, an excellent back-water would be at hand, and would clear away
any bar that might be formed at the mouth of the harbour, and keep it
free from mud.”
It has two markets in the week; Monday for butter, &c., and Saturday for
meat, besides which, it is generally well supplied with fish, with which
it furnishes the interior of the country as far as Shrewsbury and
Worcester. The views from the castle and cliffs, not only over Cardigan
Bay, but over the cloud-capped summits of Cader Idris and Snowdon, are
extensive and sublime.
We determined to pursue the banks of the meandering Rhyddol, in
preference to the turnpike road, in our way to Havod.
This valley comprehends every thing that constitutes the beautiful; it is
enclosed by high mountains on each side, vegetating to their summits;
indeed, all the tints of verdure and diversity of foliage here introduced
themselves in one view; the Rhyddol struggling with the huge masses of
rock,—its never-ceasing, tumultuous motion,—its sparkling foam;—in fine,
every thing that can be imagined, by the most enthusiastic admirer of
nature, is blended in this short excursion:—
—“_is not this vale_
More free from peril than the envious courts?
Here feel we but the penalty of Adam,
The season’s difference, as the icy fang
And churlish chiding of the winter’s wind.”
SHAKSPEARE.
“The vale of Rhyddol,” says Mr. Gilpin, “is a very grand and extensive
scene, continuing not less than ten miles, among rocks, hanging woods,
and varied ground, which, in some parts, become mountainous: while the
river is every where a beautiful object; and twice or three times, in its
passage through the vale, is interrupted in its course, and formed into a
cascade. This is a circumstance in a _vale_, I think, rather uncommon.
In a contracted _valley_ it is frequent: but _an extended vale_ is seldom
so interrupted as not to give way to the river on one side or the other.”
To the inquisitive pedestrian (for this vale is inaccessible for
carriages), the old Church of Llanbadem Vawr, which signifies the Church
of Great Paternus, a native of Bretagne, is particularly interesting;
who, as the writer of his life expresses it, “by feeding governed, and by
governing fed the Church of Cretica.” To his memory this Church, and
formerly an episcopal see was founded; but the bishopric, as Roger
Hovedon writes, “early declined, because the parishioners slew their
pastor.” {107} As we draw near the
DEVIL’S BRIDGE,
a long chain of mountains excited our admiration, encircled half way down
with a thick mist, similar in appearance to a girdle: this circumstance
seems to justify the bold imagery and beautiful description of a mountain
given by the Poet:
“As some tall cliff that lifts its awful form,
Swells from the vale, and midway leaves the storm;
Though round its breast the rolling clouds are spread,
Eternal sunshine settles on its head.”
GOLDSMITH.
The comfortable inn, situated near this romantic spot, stands in front of
the River Rhyddol, and commanding the most picturesque view fancy can
paint, was built by the respectable and truly hospitable owner of Havod.
This celebrated Bridge, so much the object of curiosity and admiration,
is so completely environed with trees, that many travellers, not intent
upon deep investigation, or in pursuit of Nature’s landscapes, may pass
over it without the least suspicion of the dreadful aperture, or the
ancient structure that conveys them over the gulf. On the eastern side
we descended a deep and treacherous bank, consisting of slate rock, or
laminac, I should imagine, near an hundred feet: this is the computed
measurement; but the eye, confused by the awfulness of the scene, loses
its faculty of judging. From this spot the vast chine, or chasm over
which the bridge is thrown, is seen to great advantage. The whole of
this fissure was probably occasioned by some convulsion of Nature, as
each indenture seems to correspond with the opposite protuberance. Under
the bridge the river Mynach, in its confined course, meeting with
obstructions of massy rock, and fragments of prodigious size, rushes
through the chasm with irresistible violence.